---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 03/11/05: 48 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:29 AM - White Letters for Panel (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)) 2. 04:48 AM - Dyaton experimental race, July 24th (Charles Heathco) 3. 05:41 AM - Bob Archer's Email/website (Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell) 4. 05:43 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (John Huft) 5. 05:54 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)) 6. 06:04 AM - Re: LASAR/elecr ign (John Huft) 7. 06:06 AM - Re: Bob Archer's Email/website (cgalley) 8. 06:10 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (Bob C.) 9. 06:18 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (John Huft) 10. 06:38 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (David Burton) 11. 07:01 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club) 12. 07:12 AM - Re: Auto Pilots (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 13. 07:45 AM - Re: Odyssey Battery Installation Kit (Karen and Robert Brown) 14. 07:50 AM - Wheel pants (Mickey Coggins) 15. 07:56 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (Rick Galati) 16. 08:09 AM - Re: Dyaton experimental race, July 24th (John Huft) 17. 08:37 AM - Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: (Mike Robertson) 18. 08:40 AM - Re: Odyssey Battery Installation Kit (Walter Tondu) 19. 08:43 AM - Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: (Mike Robertson) 20. 08:59 AM - Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: Auto Pilots (Bill Dube) 21. 09:01 AM - Re: LASAR/elecr ign (Randy Lervold) 22. 09:03 AM - Re: Bob Archer's Email/website (Jeff Point) 23. 09:14 AM - Re: Re: White Letters for Panel (Scott Vanartsdalen) 24. 09:27 AM - Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: (cgalley) 25. 09:29 AM - Spark Plug quality/source (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)) 26. 09:44 AM - Re: Bob Archer's Email/website (HCRV6@aol.com) 27. 09:53 AM - Re: POP rivet static port (HCRV6@aol.com) 28. 10:45 AM - Re: O-320 E2A for sale Phx, AZ (Ralph Koger) 29. 10:53 AM - Re: LASAR/elecr ign (Alex Peterson) 30. 11:26 AM - Re: O-320 E2A for sale Phx, AZ (brian olofsson) 31. 12:03 PM - Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: () 32. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: (Jerry Springer) 33. 12:37 PM - Re: LASAR/elecr ign (John Huft) 34. 12:40 PM - J.B. Aircraft Engine Service Inc (Richard V. Reynolds) 35. 12:40 PM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Kevin Williams) 36. 12:44 PM - more LASAR (John Huft) 37. 12:47 PM - Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: () 38. 01:09 PM - Re: J.B. Aircraft Engine Service Inc (Oliver Washburn) 39. 01:43 PM - Re: J.B. Aircraft Engine Service Inc (Chuck Jensen) 40. 02:42 PM - Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: (Mike Robertson) 41. 02:50 PM - Re: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: (Mike Robertson) 42. 04:00 PM - Re: Electric or Manual Trim ? (Jim Peoples) 43. 05:50 PM - Re: Re: White Letters for Panel (Dave Bristol) 44. 05:53 PM - Re:Wheel pants (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 45. 06:26 PM - Looking for FWF photos (PeterHunt1@aol.com) 46. 06:26 PM - Re: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: (Dave Bristol) 47. 07:52 PM - Re: Spark Plug quality/source (Denis Walsh) 48. 09:35 PM - Re: White Letters for Panel (GMC) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:29:31 AM PST US From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) Subject: RV-List: White Letters for Panel 0.00 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary 0.00 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what make/model of label maker & label paper it takes to print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? You can trick an ink jet to print white. Type the text. Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to reverse the colors. Print the immage on white paper. The printer will print a black background and leave the text blank. thx, lucky OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? You can trick an ink jet to print white. Type the text. Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to reverse the colors. Print the immage on white paper. The printer will print a black background and leave the text blank. thx, lucky ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:48:26 AM PST US From: "Charles Heathco" Subject: RV-List: Dyaton experimental race, July 24th --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" I was wondering if any of our group plans to run in this race, especially any of the formation folks as they would have the requisite skills. (Mike, the super 8 gonna be ready by then?) I think it might be fun, but in my 150hp FP, it would be prop wash city for me :-) charlie heathco ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:41:31 AM PST US From: "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" Subject: RV-List: Bob Archer's Email/website --> RV-List message posted by: "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" Does any one have a website or email for Bob Archer?. A google search does not find one. Roger ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:43:28 AM PST US From: John Huft Subject: Re: RV-List: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft I have a $50 Brother that I got at Office Depot. I use the black tape with white letters. None of them have fallen off in almost 3 years, and it is quick and easy. John RV8 lucky wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > >OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what make/model of label maker & label paper it takes to print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > >BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > >You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > Type the text. > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > reverse the colors. > Print the immage on white paper. > The printer will print a black background and leave the > text blank. > >thx, >lucky > >OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > >BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > >You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > Type the text. > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > reverse the colors. > Print the immage on white paper. > The printer will print a black background and leave the > text blank. > >thx, >lucky > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:54:04 AM PST US From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) Subject: Re: RV-List: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) Any particular style/brand of tape? Never used before. Does it matter whether it's laser to cartridge style printer? -------------- Original message -------------- > --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft > > I have a $50 Brother that I got at Office Depot. I use the black tape > with white letters. None of them have fallen off in almost 3 years, and > it is quick and easy. > > John > RV8 > > lucky wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > > >OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > make/model of label maker & label paper it takes to print out quality labels > with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? > Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > > > >BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > > >You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > > > Type the text. > > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > > reverse the colors. > > Print the immage on white paper. > > The printer will print a black background and leave the > > text blank. > > > >thx, > >lucky > > > >OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with > white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one > I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > > > >BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > > >You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > > > Type the text. > > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > > reverse the colors. > > Print the immage on white paper. > > The printer will print a black background and leave the > > text blank. > > > >thx, > >lucky > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Any particular style/brand of tape? Never used before. Does it matter whether it's laser to cartridge style printer? -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV-List message posted by: John Huft I have a $50 Brother that I got at Office Depot. I use the black tape with white letters. None of them have fallen off in almost 3 years, and it is quick and easy. John RV8 lucky wrote: -- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? You can trick an ink jet to print white. Type the text. Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to reverse the colors. Print the immage on white paper. The printer will print a black background and leave the text blank. thx, lucky OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? You can trick an ink jet to print white. Type the text. Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to reverse the colors. Print the immage on white paper. The printer will print a black background and leave the text blank. thx, lucky =============================================================== ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:04:22 AM PST US From: John Huft Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR/elecr ign --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft I put about 200 hours on a LASAR system, so here are some more opinions... Alex, how do you know about the 15 minutes with no advance? I never saw any sign of this with mine, it always started overheating right away. I think you just saw that it doesn't advance the timing much at low altitude and full throttle. Since I am based at 7650 msl, and only get about 22.5" map on takeoff, my LASAR would think I was at cruise, advance the timing, and overheat on initial climbout. I did what Randy says, used a breaker switch so I could shut it off. I also had to shut it off on any hot summer day in cruise, trying to keep CHTs below 400. My new Lightspeed system does not suffer from any of this, and CHTs are about 30 dF cooler than before in any given condition. I also suffered a left mag failure at 5 hours. It was replaced promptly by Unison. Last year, my hangar neighbor made his first engine run with his LASAR system, and the "brain box" was dead. It took 3 weeks to get straighted out. Unison wants everyone to go through their dealer for service now. Harry Fenton was the greatest but he has left Unison. The problem I have with the LASAR system is that it is nothing more than a standard mag with variable timing. The spark is no hotter. The reliability is worse, since it has all the weaknesses of the mag, plus the electronic failure modes. Now I have a dual Lightspeed ignition with the crank pickup...no moving parts. Automotive spark plugs ($1.35 each). Much hotter spark, especially at idle. Easier hot starts (fuel injection). I only have about 40 hours on this system, so only time will tell of course as far as overall reliability. John Huft more opinions at http://www.lazy8.net/EI.htm Alex Peterson wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > > > >>My advice is to install your LASAR on a breaker switch near >>the master >>switch so it can be turned off. The simply fact is that your >>engine will run >>hotter with LASAR because it's buring the fuel/air charge >>more efficiently >>in the combustion chamber, not in the exhaust system. >>Therefore you need to >>be aware of it. On my RV-8 I learned to turn the system off >>for a long >>climbout on a hot day, then switch it back on once leveled >>off. Now my RV-8 >> >> > >I have 584 hours on my Lasar system now over the last 3.5 years, and here >are some thoughts: Regarding what Randy has written above, the system does >not advance past the baseline 25 degrees for the first 15 minutes of >operation, allowing for a pretty good taxi and climbout for an RV. I don't >believe any of the other EI's do this, and I can't say how much difference >it really makes. One does need to be aware of this, as fine tuning mixture >settings for cruise should wait until this period is expired. > >Reliability wise I have had two failures. At 342 hours, the left mag died. >It was detected by a higher than normal EGT noted during a 40 minute flight, >and the mag check on the return showed that the left mag was sick (not dead, >but not good either). Unison sent another mag free of charge next day to >me, excellent service. I left for the west coast the next day, and was >thinking about that new mag when over the Rocky Mountains.... At 569 hours, >during cruise flight, the engine hesitated (this tends to get one's >attention) for perhaps 1/4 second, then recovered. The fault light was on >indicating the system was in backup mode (mags running). Once over an >airport, I checked the L/R mags, and the left was completely dead (one tends >to move the switch back quite rapidly when the engine completely stops >firing). Once again, Unison replaced it with a brand new one free of >charge, although this took a couple weeks this time. I suspect if I had >been on the road, they would have overnighted one. I never did learn what >the failure was on the first mag, but the recent failure was caused by a >broken rotor. > >So, overall, Unison really sticks behind their product, but two failures of >two different left mags is a little troubling. Ignition systems are not yet >trouble free - anyone's. One person here had to rebuild a lot of his cowl >and baffling when an encoder wheel came off inside his Electroair during >startup. Others have had problems with Lightspeed. It is impossible to say >with any accuracy what anyone's system's reliability is. > >Given the performance afforded by EI, mainly fuel economy, I would not be >interested in running my plane on standard mags. > >Alex Peterson >RV6-A 584 hours >Maple Grove, MN > >http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:06:16 AM PST US From: "cgalley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Archer's Email/website --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" bobsantennas@earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" Subject: RV-List: Bob Archer's Email/website > --> RV-List message posted by: "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" > > > Does any one have a website or email for Bob Archer?. A google search > does not find one. > > Roger > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:10:02 AM PST US From: "Bob C. " Subject: Re: RV-List: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " Brother's P-Touch . . . has a white on clear tape . . . I have one but haven't used it yet. On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 13:53:20 +0000, lucky wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > Any particular style/brand of tape? Never used before. Does it matter whether it's laser to cartridge style printer? > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > > --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft > > > > I have a $50 Brother that I got at Office Depot. I use the black tape > > with white letters. None of them have fallen off in almost 3 years, and > > it is quick and easy. > > > > John > > RV8 > > > > lucky wrote: > > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > > > > >OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > > make/model of label maker & label paper it takes to print out quality labels > > with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? > > Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > > > > > >BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > > > > >You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > > > > > Type the text. > > > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > > > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > > > reverse the colors. > > > Print the immage on white paper. > > > The printer will print a black background and leave the > > > text blank. > > > > > >thx, > > >lucky > > > > > >OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > > make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with > > white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one > > I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > > > > > >BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > > > > >You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > > > > > Type the text. > > > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > > > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > > > reverse the colors. > > > Print the immage on white paper. > > > The printer will print a black background and leave the > > > text blank. > > > > > >thx, > > >lucky > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Any particular style/brand of tape? Never used before. Does it matter whether it's laser to cartridge style printer? > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > -- RV-List message posted by: John Huft > > I have a $50 Brother that I got at Office Depot. I use the black tape > with white letters. None of them have fallen off in almost 3 years, and > it is quick and easy. > > John > RV8 > > lucky wrote: > > -- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels > with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? > Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and > pick up. > > BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > Type the text. > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > reverse the colors. > Print the immage on white paper. > The printer will print a black background and leave the > text blank. > > thx, > lucky > > OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with > white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one > I just run > to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > > BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > Type the text. > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > reverse the colors. > Print the immage on white paper. > The printer will print a black background and leave the > text blank. > > thx, > lucky > > =============================================================== > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:18:44 AM PST US From: John Huft Subject: Re: RV-List: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft You just buy a tape cartridge that fits the label maker. They have different styles, white letters on black, black on clear, etc. It is all automatic after that. John lucky wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > >Any particular style/brand of tape? Never used before. Does it matter whether it's laser to cartridge style printer? > >-------------- Original message -------------- > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft >> >>I have a $50 Brother that I got at Office Depot. I use the black tape >>with white letters. None of them have fallen off in almost 3 years, and >>it is quick and easy. >> >>John >>RV8 >> >>lucky wrote: >> >> >> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) >>> >>>OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for >>> >>> >>the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what >>make/model of label maker & label paper it takes to print out quality labels >>with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? >>Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. >> >> >>>BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? >>> >>>You can trick an ink jet to print white. >>> >>>Type the text. >>>Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. >>>Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to >>>reverse the colors. >>>Print the immage on white paper. >>>The printer will print a black background and leave the >>>text blank. >>> >>>thx, >>>lucky >>> >>>OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for >>> >>> >>the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what >>make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with >>white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one >>I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. >> >> >>>BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? >>> >>>You can trick an ink jet to print white. >>> >>>Type the text. >>>Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. >>>Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to >>>reverse the colors. >>>Print the immage on white paper. >>>The printer will print a black background and leave the >>>text blank. >>> >>>thx, >>>lucky >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >Any particular style/brand of tape? Never used before. Does it matter whether it's laser to cartridge style printer? > >-------------- Original message -------------- > > -- RV-List message posted by: John Huft > > I have a $50 Brother that I got at Office Depot. I use the black tape > with white letters. None of them have fallen off in almost 3 years, and > it is quick and easy. > > John > RV8 > > lucky wrote: > > -- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels > with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? > Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and > pick up. > > BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > Type the text. > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > reverse the colors. > Print the immage on white paper. > The printer will print a black background and leave the > text blank. > > thx, > lucky > > OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with > white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one > I just run > to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > > BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > Type the text. > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > reverse the colors. > Print the immage on white paper. > The printer will print a black background and leave the > text blank. > > thx, > lucky > > > =============================================================== > > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:38:40 AM PST US From: "David Burton" Subject: Re: RV-List: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" Some of the label makers offer the ability to use different widths of tape, easily up to one inch wide. One of the advantages of this wide tape is that some units can print multiple lines on the tape. Some offer the ability to specify a "box" around the print which looks more professional or finished, and multiple fonts so you can choose one that is easy for you to read. Look at the features and chose the best machine, not the cheapest... and like any of these products, the manufacturer is selling the machine to you at below the cost of producing it, and then stabbing you for the supplies. The replacement cartridges can add up to a significant amount of money. For this project that's probably not a factor, but make sure that you can easily purchase the different styles or colors of cartridges in your area. Good luck, Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Huft" Subject: Re: RV-List: White Letters for Panel > --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft > > You just buy a tape cartridge that fits the label maker. They have > different styles, white letters on black, black on clear, etc. It is all > automatic after that. > > John > > lucky wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > > >Any particular style/brand of tape? Never used before. Does it matter whether it's laser to cartridge style printer? > > > >-------------- Original message -------------- > > > > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft > >> > >>I have a $50 Brother that I got at Office Depot. I use the black tape > >>with white letters. None of them have fallen off in almost 3 years, and > >>it is quick and easy. > >> > >>John > >>RV8 > >> > >>lucky wrote: > >> > >> > >> > >>>--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > >>> > >>>OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > >>> > >>> > >>the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > >>make/model of label maker & label paper it takes to print out quality labels > >>with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? > >>Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > >> > >> > >>>BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > >>> > >>>You can trick an ink jet to print white. > >>> > >>>Type the text. > >>>Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > >>>Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > >>>reverse the colors. > >>>Print the immage on white paper. > >>>The printer will print a black background and leave the > >>>text blank. > >>> > >>>thx, > >>>lucky > >>> > >>>OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > >>> > >>> > >>the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > >>make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with > >>white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one > >>I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > >> > >> > >>>BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > >>> > >>>You can trick an ink jet to print white. > >>> > >>>Type the text. > >>>Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > >>>Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > >>>reverse the colors. > >>>Print the immage on white paper. > >>>The printer will print a black background and leave the > >>>text blank. > >>> > >>>thx, > >>>lucky > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > >Any particular style/brand of tape? Never used before. Does it matter whether it's laser to cartridge style printer? > > > >-------------- Original message -------------- > > > > -- RV-List message posted by: John Huft > > > > I have a $50 Brother that I got at Office Depot. I use the black tape > > with white letters. None of them have fallen off in almost 3 years, and > > it is quick and easy. > > > > John > > RV8 > > > > lucky wrote: > > > > -- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > > > OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > > make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels > > with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? > > Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and > > pick up. > > > > BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > > > You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > > > Type the text. > > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > > reverse the colors. > > Print the immage on white paper. > > The printer will print a black background and leave the > > text blank. > > > > thx, > > lucky > > > > OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for > > the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what > > make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with > > white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one > > I just run > > to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > > > > BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > > > > You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > > > Type the text. > > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > > reverse the colors. > > Print the immage on white paper. > > The printer will print a black background and leave the > > text blank. > > > > thx, > > lucky > > > > > > =============================================================== > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:01:03 AM PST US From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" Subject: Re: RV-List: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" lucky wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > >OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what make/model of label maker & label paper it takes to print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > >BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > >You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > Type the text. > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > reverse the colors. > Print the immage on white paper. > The printer will print a black background and leave the > text blank. > >thx, >lucky > >OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what make/model of label maker label paper it takes to print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. > >BTW, has anyone tried this trick I saved from prior email and does it work? > >You can trick an ink jet to print white. > > Type the text. > Convert the text to a 1 Bit (black and White) immage. > Use an immage processing package (Photoshop, or many others) to > reverse the colors. > Print the immage on white paper. > The printer will print a black background and leave the > text blank. > >thx, >lucky > > > > I have a brother P-touch label machine that prints almost any color that you care to buy tape for. There are several models out there. It actually prints on a colored or clear tape and then laminates another clear tape over the top of it before it comes out of the printer. I think it uses a mylar tape for the outer one. This way you wont scratch the printing off because it is protected by the outer clear tape. I think several of the office companies carry some of them, but not all of them. The one I have will print up to 1 inch tape and it is feeds out of my computer. Many of them are self contained and prices start at about $30 and go up. Go to the brother website and you will find all of the options. www.brothermall.com buy an extra cartridge of tape for the learning process...... Phil do not archive ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:12:08 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Mickey and Stein, That's a good suggestion, especially if one were to go inside the encoder and tap off the data before it goes to the EPROM that encodes it into the grey code. I have traced out the circuit of both the Ameri-King and the ACK encoders, and they are practically identical. In fact, the pinouts of the 15 pin connecters are the same. There must be a story there. I don't have a Dynon, etc., so have to use the old technology stuff. Greater resolution can be had by buffering the raw digital data and using it. Only the LS 8 bits would be needed, probably, since we just want to HOLD altitude. It would be a good idea to use a separate encoder, so that the one being used for Mode-C could remain legal. Thanks, Stein, for the link to EZ-Trim. It says on the web site that he doesn't have time to build them and is supplying boards and software for whoever wants to build it. I will look over his algorithm, if possible, from the download. I am just looking for a microprocessor project, not necessarily the ultimate in altitude hold autopilot. Since I am familiar with Motorola 68HC11 and have lots of them, would not want to go with the PIC, at this time anyway. When I get tired of playing around I'll take your advice and just buy one. Thanks, to everyone else who replied. Sorry to change the subject like that. I should have started a new thread. Regards, Dan Hopper Walton IN RV-7A (Flying) In a message dated 3/10/05 4:35:32 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, mick-matronics@rv8.ch writes: Couldn't you slurp the altitude information from your altitude encoder before you send it to the transponder? > ... Pressure input would come from an automotive type > barometric pressure sensor with enough amplification to get the error signal > big enough for the processor to read it. > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:45:30 AM PST US From: "Karen and Robert Brown" Subject: Re: RV-List: Odyssey Battery Installation Kit --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" The Odyssey battery install kit from Van's includes a nice spot-welded steel battery enclosure (which you drill lightening holes in), a .125 alum bar you fab into a hold-down bracket, some powder coated angle steel mounting brackets which are predrilled for nutplates, some aluminum tubing for spacers on the hold-down bar and some nutplates. It really is a very secure assy which goes together and mounts quickly. I recommend it. Not that you couldn't make your own, but for what you get it's a nice package. For some pictures you can check out mine at: brownsrv7a.net/batteryboxmounted.htm or check out Dan's site at: rvproject.com/20030228.html Bob Brown RV7A - wiring/canopy ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:50:09 AM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: RV-List: Wheel pants --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi, I'm very "glass challenged", which is why I'm building an aluminum airplane. Anyone have any special tricks for doing the wheel pants? I'm kind of surprised that they really don't mate up very well at all. I have no idea what the manufacturing process for these items is, but it seems strange that two halves would not share a common cut. Any tips and tricks would be most appreciated! Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:56:13 AM PST US From: Rick Galati Subject: RV-List: Re: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati I use a Brother PT-1950. Using 3/4" black tape, white letters and up to 4 lines of framed print, it makes outstanding placards that I have used to identify components all over the airframe, including firewall forward. These electronic labelers enable you to adjust the size, font and other tools commonly found in your computer Word program. I'm told you can even download and print images via a supplied USB cable. I used smaller width tape to identify dozens upon dozens of electrical wires. Brother claims the tapes will hold up to harsh industrial conditions......we shall see. FYI, the replacement cassette tapes can be expensive. Other than the generic white tape with black print, I find it difficult to buy many of available widths and colors locally. Brother's on-line store wanted $30 for the aforementioned 3/4" black tape. I recently bought a copy at Amazon.com for about $16.00. It pays to shop around. Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:09:30 AM PST US From: John Huft Subject: Re: RV-List: Dyaton experimental race, July 24th --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft I will be there. No formation skills required. It is lots of fun, it doesn't matter where you finish (well, maybe a little). John Huft Race 13 "Nuisance" Charles Heathco wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" > >I was wondering if any of our group plans to run in this race, especially any of the formation folks as they would have the requisite skills. (Mike, the super 8 gonna be ready by then?) I think it might be fun, but in my 150hp FP, it would be prop wash city for me :-) charlie heathco > > >. > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:37:23 AM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" I don't know who you are but you are mis-informed. Anybody may do the maintenance, major, minor, or otherwise, on an experimental amateur-built aircraft. The only time a "certificated" person must become involved is for the yearly condition inspection. That's its. There is nothing else. FAR 43 says right at the start that this section does not apply to Experimental aircraft. Therefore the only thing governing the maintenance of an amateur-built aircraft is the aircraft's operating limitations. Mike Robertson >From: >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: Date: >Thu, 10 Mar 2005 09:34:16 -0800 (PST) > >--> RV-List message posted by: > > >Mike: > >You are opening a can of worms :- ) The buyer of an experimental aircraft >can only do routine maintenance, as if it were a Piper or Cessna, as far as >I know. Only the manufacture (builder/repairman) can make major mods, >however I assume(?) an A&P or AI could do it and with the FAA's blessing. >Again, as in all these matters refer to the FISDO of choice for the answer. >There is no "type certificate" configuration for exp a/c, so many changes >slip thru the cracks and are not tracked by the FAA. Anyone who has a >second hand RV may find them self in a regulatory mess if they want to make >a major changes. The best (easiest) thing would get the builder to sign the >mod off if possible. However that is one of the fantastic reasons for >building your own plane. > >Cheers George > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye > > > > Mike, > > > > I have a question related to this very activity ... and am asking not > > so much for myself (I'm still building), but just to satisfy my >curiosity. > > > >I have had the impression that all these suggestions and requirements > > have been tendered with the idea that the person doing the work is the > > builder and has a repairman's certificate for the aircraft. However, >what are > > the rules/regs for someone who does NOT have the repairmans certificate >and > > who is NOT an A/P? Somehow I can't imagine that they would be in a >position > > to change their prop, put it into phase 1, perform the flight testing, >and > > sign it off putting it back in phase 2. Or can they? > > >--------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:40:44 AM PST US From: Walter Tondu Subject: Re: RV-List: Odyssey Battery Installation Kit --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu On 03/11 7:56, Karen and Robert Brown wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" > > The Odyssey battery install kit from Van's includes a nice spot-welded steel battery enclosure (which you drill lightening holes in), a .125 alum bar you fab into a hold-down bracket, some powder coated angle steel mounting brackets which are predrilled for nutplates, some aluminum tubing for spacers on the hold-down bar and some nutplates. It really is a very secure assy which goes together and mounts quickly. I recommend it. Not that you couldn't make your own, but for what you get it's a nice package. For some pictures you can check out mine at: brownsrv7a.net/batteryboxmounted.htm > or check out Dan's site at: rvproject.com/20030228.html I made a modification to the Battery Box design from Vans. Vans design would have you slip the battery up and out of the box in order to replace it. This is a heavy battery with nothing to grab onto AND if you have anything mounted above the battery box, you may not have the clearance to remove the battery, ask me how I know... I made a quick modification which is to make the front panel of the box removable so the battery just pops out the front. I used hinges on each side to retain the front of the box. It works very well and is simple to do. http://www.rv7-a.com/firewall_finish.htm#battery box mods -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 08:43:08 AM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Cy, If I may. The yearly condiction inspection is to determine if the aircraft is safe to operate. I know it is a play on terms but from the FAA point of view we say that the aircraft is never airworthy because it has not been evaluated and issued an type certificate, only that it is "safe to operate". Other than that you are entirely correct. Mike R. >From: "cgalley" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: >Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 16:07:38 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" > >I've looked the statement that the owner can do no more than he can on >certified. >This is FLAT OUT WRONG. > > Anyone can work on an experimental. > >One caveat and even this might be wrong. At the yearly conditional >inspection, the work has to be good enough to get the plane signed off as >airworthy. > >Cy Galley >EAA Safety Programs Editor >Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Dave Bristol" >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol > > > > Anyone can work on a homebuilt aircraft including a trained chimp or > > your dog. You just have to have the condition inspection signed off by > > an A&P or AI. > > > > Dave > > > > gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote: > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: > >> > >> > >>Mike: > >> > >>You are opening a can of worms :- ) The buyer of an experimental >aircraft > >>can only do routine maintenance, as if it were a Piper or Cessna, as far > >>as I know. Only the manufacture (builder/repairman) can make major mods, > >>however I assume(?) an A&P or AI could do it and with the FAA's >blessing. > >>Again, as in all these matters refer to the FISDO of choice for the > >>answer. There is no "type certificate" configuration for exp a/c, so >many > >>changes slip thru the cracks and are not tracked by the FAA. Anyone who > >>has a second hand RV may find them self in a regulatory mess if they >want > >>to make a major changes. The best (easiest) thing would get the builder >to > >>sign the mod off if possible. However that is one of the fantastic >reasons > >>for building your own plane. > >> > >>Cheers George > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye > >>> > >>>Mike, > >>> > >>>I have a question related to this very activity ... and am asking not > >>>so much for myself (I'm still building), but just to satisfy my > >>>curiosity. > >>> > >>>I have had the impression that all these suggestions and requirements > >>>have been tendered with the idea that the person doing the work is the > >>>builder and has a repairman's certificate for the aircraft. However, >what > >>>are > >>>the rules/regs for someone who does NOT have the repairmans certificate > >>>and > >>>who is NOT an A/P? Somehow I can't imagine that they would be in a > >>>position > >>>to change their prop, put it into phase 1, perform the flight testing, > >>>and > >>>sign it off putting it back in phase 2. Or can they? > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >>--------------------------------- > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 08:59:35 AM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube At 08:36 PM 3/10/2005 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" > >I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing leveler. I >have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation (PSPICE) >at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog approach >or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers more move >for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a bit much. >The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited growth >capability. You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any other embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system and you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work. > I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will start out as >an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe that a >Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best bet (and >least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two control >loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to your set >heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement this would >feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be compared to >the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would generate a >roll rate command which would end up driving the servo. That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to the inner loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the heading input. Easier to do digitally, by the way. > A small difference >in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference a faster >roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously quite a >bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the general idea. >The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale model >aircraft servo. Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to clutch the servo to allow manual over-ride? ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 09:01:25 AM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR/elecr ign --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" John & Alex, a few comments... Alex: I'm with John, I've never heard of the LASAR brain waiting 15 minutes to advance, where'd ya get that? John: a couple of updates to the comments made on your site: my understanding from Bart Lalonde is that all LASARs now come with an impluse coupling, formerly called the "bush kit" at no additional cost. Indeed, the system I just got on my IO-320 indeed has an impluse coupling on the right mag. Even the system on my RV-8 which was purchased in 1999 had it and I didn't specifically order it that way. I know because I could hear the clicking, and we did manage to hand prop it one day when my starter failed and we really wanted to go flying. Maybe Bart spec'd all his units that way, he is one of the their largest dealers. Also, you mention on your site that LASAR doesn't improve the strength/quality of the spark at low rpms -- au contraire, if it's engaged (not in fault mode) you get all the benefit of a very hot spark which is why it improves starting. Lastly, you and I both had occasional cooling issues that we learned to manage, but we also both had the Sam James cowling with reduced cooling inlets. I submit that the normal RV cowl would pass enough air to prevent this. Your 10-1 pistons didn't help in this area either.... ;-) All told, I'm still a LASAR fan, although I miss Harry Fenton. There is a new guy who took his place, Steve Carter, who Doug Reeves tells me has the right attitude. My advice to other builders who ask is to keep an eye on the E-mag product which looks to me like the best solution of all IF it works and IF the company supports it properly. Time will tell. Randy Lervold ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Huft" Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR/elecr ign > --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft > > I put about 200 hours on a LASAR system, so here are some more opinions... > > Alex, how do you know about the 15 minutes with no advance? I never saw > any sign of this with mine, it always started overheating right away. I > think you just saw that it doesn't advance the timing much at low > altitude and full throttle. Since I am based at 7650 msl, and only get > about 22.5" map on takeoff, my LASAR would think I was at cruise, > advance the timing, and overheat on initial climbout. I did what Randy > says, used a breaker switch so I could shut it off. I also had to shut > it off on any hot summer day in cruise, trying to keep CHTs below 400. > > My new Lightspeed system does not suffer from any of this, and CHTs are > about 30 dF cooler than before in any given condition. > > I also suffered a left mag failure at 5 hours. It was replaced promptly > by Unison. Last year, my hangar neighbor made his first engine run with > his LASAR system, and the "brain box" was dead. It took 3 weeks to get > straighted out. Unison wants everyone to go through their dealer for > service now. Harry Fenton was the greatest but he has left Unison. > > The problem I have with the LASAR system is that it is nothing more than > a standard mag with variable timing. The spark is no hotter. The > reliability is worse, since it has all the weaknesses of the mag, plus > the electronic failure modes. > > Now I have a dual Lightspeed ignition with the crank pickup...no moving > parts. Automotive spark plugs ($1.35 each). Much hotter spark, > especially at idle. Easier hot starts (fuel injection). I only have > about 40 hours on this system, so only time will tell of course as far > as overall reliability. > > John Huft > more opinions at http://www.lazy8.net/EI.htm > > > Alex Peterson wrote: > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" >> >> >> >> >> >>>My advice is to install your LASAR on a breaker switch near >>>the master >>>switch so it can be turned off. The simply fact is that your >>>engine will run >>>hotter with LASAR because it's buring the fuel/air charge >>>more efficiently >>>in the combustion chamber, not in the exhaust system. >>>Therefore you need to >>>be aware of it. On my RV-8 I learned to turn the system off >>>for a long >>>climbout on a hot day, then switch it back on once leveled >>>off. Now my RV-8 >>> >>> >> >>I have 584 hours on my Lasar system now over the last 3.5 years, and here >>are some thoughts: Regarding what Randy has written above, the system >>does >>not advance past the baseline 25 degrees for the first 15 minutes of >>operation, allowing for a pretty good taxi and climbout for an RV. I >>don't >>believe any of the other EI's do this, and I can't say how much difference >>it really makes. One does need to be aware of this, as fine tuning >>mixture >>settings for cruise should wait until this period is expired. >> >>Reliability wise I have had two failures. At 342 hours, the left mag >>died. >>It was detected by a higher than normal EGT noted during a 40 minute >>flight, >>and the mag check on the return showed that the left mag was sick (not >>dead, >>but not good either). Unison sent another mag free of charge next day to >>me, excellent service. I left for the west coast the next day, and was >>thinking about that new mag when over the Rocky Mountains.... At 569 >>hours, >>during cruise flight, the engine hesitated (this tends to get one's >>attention) for perhaps 1/4 second, then recovered. The fault light was on >>indicating the system was in backup mode (mags running). Once over an >>airport, I checked the L/R mags, and the left was completely dead (one >>tends >>to move the switch back quite rapidly when the engine completely stops >>firing). Once again, Unison replaced it with a brand new one free of >>charge, although this took a couple weeks this time. I suspect if I had >>been on the road, they would have overnighted one. I never did learn what >>the failure was on the first mag, but the recent failure was caused by a >>broken rotor. >> >>So, overall, Unison really sticks behind their product, but two failures >>of >>two different left mags is a little troubling. Ignition systems are not >>yet >>trouble free - anyone's. One person here had to rebuild a lot of his cowl >>and baffling when an encoder wheel came off inside his Electroair during >>startup. Others have had problems with Lightspeed. It is impossible to >>say >>with any accuracy what anyone's system's reliability is. >> >>Given the performance afforded by EI, mainly fuel economy, I would not be >>interested in running my plane on standard mags. >> >>Alex Peterson >>RV6-A 584 hours >>Maple Grove, MN >> >>http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 09:03:54 AM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Archer's Email/website --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point BOB ARCHER 310-316-8796 bobsantennas@earthlink.net ANTENNAE FOR COMPOSITE SURFACES I know he was still in business as of a month ago, when I bought an antenna from him. Jeff Point > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 09:14:35 AM PST US From: Scott Vanartsdalen Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen Another alternative if you have a color printer for your computer is to print white text onto clear labels. But it will give the area around the text a bit of a dull appearance. You won't have that crisp look. I did black on clear for my gray inerior. --- Rick Galati wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > I use a Brother PT-1950. Using 3/4" black tape, white letters and up to 4 lines of framed > print, it makes outstanding placards that I have used to identify components all over the > airframe, including firewall forward. These electronic labelers enable you to adjust the size, > font and other tools commonly found in your computer Word program. I'm told you can even > download and print images via a supplied USB cable. I used smaller width tape to identify > dozens upon dozens of electrical wires. Brother claims the tapes will hold up to harsh > industrial conditions......we shall see. FYI, the replacement cassette tapes can be expensive. > Other than the generic white tape with black print, I find it difficult to buy many of > available widths and colors locally. Brother's on-line store wanted $30 for the aforementioned > 3/4" black tape. I recently bought a copy at Amazon.com for about $16.00. It pays to shop > around. > > Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" > > > > > > > -- Scott VanArtsdalen RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!! When a man does all he can though it succeeds not well, blame not him that did it." -- George Washington ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 09:27:35 AM PST US From: "cgalley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" Some else pointed that out as well. My point still is that all maintenance needs to be done so the person that does the conditional will approve the plane's return to service. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" > > Cy, > > If I may. The yearly condiction inspection is to determine if the > aircraft > is safe to operate. I know it is a play on terms but from the FAA point > of > view we say that the aircraft is never airworthy because it has not been > evaluated and issued an type certificate, only that it is "safe to > operate". > Other than that you are entirely correct. > > Mike R. > >>From: "cgalley" >>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >>To: >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: >>Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 16:07:38 -0600 >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" >> >>I've looked the statement that the owner can do no more than he can on >>certified. >>This is FLAT OUT WRONG. >> >> Anyone can work on an experimental. >> >>One caveat and even this might be wrong. At the yearly conditional >>inspection, the work has to be good enough to get the plane signed off as >>airworthy. >> >>Cy Galley >>EAA Safety Programs Editor >>Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot >> >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Dave Bristol" >>To: >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: >> >> >> > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol >> > >> > Anyone can work on a homebuilt aircraft including a trained chimp or >> > your dog. You just have to have the condition inspection signed off by >> > an A&P or AI. >> > >> > Dave >> > >> > gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote: >> > >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: >> >> >> >> >> >>Mike: >> >> >> >>You are opening a can of worms :- ) The buyer of an experimental >>aircraft >> >>can only do routine maintenance, as if it were a Piper or Cessna, as >> >>far >> >>as I know. Only the manufacture (builder/repairman) can make major >> >>mods, >> >>however I assume(?) an A&P or AI could do it and with the FAA's >>blessing. >> >>Again, as in all these matters refer to the FISDO of choice for the >> >>answer. There is no "type certificate" configuration for exp a/c, so >>many >> >>changes slip thru the cracks and are not tracked by the FAA. Anyone >> >>who >> >>has a second hand RV may find them self in a regulatory mess if they >>want >> >>to make a major changes. The best (easiest) thing would get the builder >>to >> >>sign the mod off if possible. However that is one of the fantastic >>reasons >> >>for building your own plane. >> >> >> >>Cheers George >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye >> >>> >> >>>Mike, >> >>> >> >>>I have a question related to this very activity ... and am asking not >> >>>so much for myself (I'm still building), but just to satisfy my >> >>>curiosity. >> >>> >> >>>I have had the impression that all these suggestions and requirements >> >>>have been tendered with the idea that the person doing the work is the >> >>>builder and has a repairman's certificate for the aircraft. However, >>what >> >>>are >> >>>the rules/regs for someone who does NOT have the repairmans >> >>>certificate >> >>>and >> >>>who is NOT an A/P? Somehow I can't imagine that they would be in a >> >>>position >> >>>to change their prop, put it into phase 1, perform the flight testing, >> >>>and >> >>>sign it off putting it back in phase 2. Or can they? >> >>> >> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>--------------------------------- >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> > >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 09:29:49 AM PST US From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) Subject: RV-List: Spark Plug quality/source 0.00 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary 0.00 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) Hey, something else new for me to ponder over. Any quality difference between a champion plug for 20 bucks vs an Autolite for $16? I got to buy 9 (one spare just in case) so it adds up. But Champion is what used to be in the engine so.... What say you wise ones? BTW, is ACS the place most buy online and get the 5% AOPA discount? Van's doesn't sell 'em... thx, lucky Hey, something else new for me to ponder over. Any quality difference between a champion plug for 20 bucks vs an Autolite for $16? I got to buy 9 (one spare just in case) so it adds up. But Champion is what used to be in the engine so.... What say you wise ones? BTW, is ACS the place most buy online and get the 5% AOPA discount? Van's doesn't sell 'em... thx, lucky ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 09:44:43 AM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob Archer's Email/website --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com Here's a phone number, 310-316-8796. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, flying!!! ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 09:53:50 AM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: POP rivet static port --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com In a message dated 3/10/05 11:42:47 AM Pacific Standard Time, ghinman@mts.net writes: << When installing Van's static port pop rivets.Do you set the rivet or just glue it in place? It seems to me that if you set the rivet there will be not much to attach the tubing to. >> I had the same concern, so I looked around the local hardware store and found the same size rivets with a longer grip. I set those with a dab of proseal and also built up a fillet of proseal around the tubing after it was attached to the rivet. It is very secure. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, 40 hour test time complete, Yeeehaawww! ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 10:45:35 AM PST US From: "Ralph Koger" Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 E2A for sale Phx, AZ --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph Koger" Do You still have the engine? I am wintering here and have a friend that needs an engine for a RV9. Ralph Koger 480 464- 9718 2528 E McKellips Lot 134 Mesa, AZ -----Original Message----- From: tomvelvick@cox.net Subject: RV-List: O-320 E2A for sale Phx, AZ >--> RV-List message posted by: > > >O-320 E2A Lycoming Engine 2279 TTSN, first run, disassembled for overhaul. Crankshaft, Cam and Rods have been overhauled by Aircraft Specialities in Tulsa, Ok. Crankshaft has standard grind on rod and main bearings, was not turned down. Crankshaft and rods were also balanced to help the engine run smoother while at Aircraft Specialities. Does not include mags or starter (bendix and heavy old starter) unless you want them for a core, but does include the carburator. This engine has the hollow crank and can be set up for constant speed. Dynafocal mount. $5000.00 I was rebuilding this engine for my rv-6a project, but came across a O-360 A1A with 600 SMOH that I bought. Contact Tom Velvick 623-979-2519 home 623-261-2906 cell see pictures at www.eaa538.org/forsale.html > > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 10:53:25 AM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: LASAR/elecr ign --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft > > I put about 200 hours on a LASAR system, so here are some > more opinions... > > Alex, how do you know about the 15 minutes with no advance? I > never saw > any sign of this with mine, it always started overheating > right away. I > think you just saw that it doesn't advance the timing much at low > altitude and full throttle. Since I am based at 7650 msl, and > only get > about 22.5" map on takeoff, my LASAR would think I was at cruise, > advance the timing, and overheat on initial climbout. I did > what Randy > says, used a breaker switch so I could shut it off. I also > had to shut > it off on any hot summer day in cruise, trying to keep CHTs below 400. John, this 15 minute timer is described in the flight manual supplement that came with the Lasar system. It starts counting when (electrical) power is first applied, and sets the system to the "climb limit" advance, which I believe is the 25 degree baseline. After the 15 minute timer expires, the timing then begins to advance per some built in table. The manual doesn't say if all systems are so programmed. It could be only those with the CHT monitoring, I don't know. The manual also says that for those systems equipped with the CHT temperature monitor, ignition timing is retarded as the CHT begins to approach the high limit (I believe 425F), until at that high limit the timing is base, or 25 degrees in our case. Was yours CHT probe equipped? Maybe that is the difference. Alex Peterson RV6-A 584 hours Maple Grove, MN http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 11:26:34 AM PST US From: brian olofsson Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 E2A for sale Phx, AZ --> RV-List message posted by: brian olofsson Hello: I have a 360a4a that I'm thinking about selling. 275 since major, 4 new millenium cylinders chrome valve covers and chrone intakes O.H. by I.A. with great reputaion. O.H. came out of a cherokee 180 "ran out of gass" no prop strike/none. reportedly wings hit trees when he ran off the end of the runway. brian060901@yahoo.com Ralph Koger wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph Koger" Do You still have the engine? I am wintering here and have a friend that needs an engine for a RV9. Ralph Koger 480 464- 9718 2528 E McKellips Lot 134 Mesa, AZ -----Original Message----- From: tomvelvick@cox.net Subject: RV-List: O-320 E2A for sale Phx, AZ >--> RV-List message posted by: > > >O-320 E2A Lycoming Engine 2279 TTSN, first run, disassembled for overhaul. Crankshaft, Cam and Rods have been overhauled by Aircraft Specialities in Tulsa, Ok. Crankshaft has standard grind on rod and main bearings, was not turned down. Crankshaft and rods were also balanced to help the engine run smoother while at Aircraft Specialities. Does not include mags or starter (bendix and heavy old starter) unless you want them for a core, but does include the carburator. This engine has the hollow crank and can be set up for constant speed. Dynafocal mount. $5000.00 I was rebuilding this engine for my rv-6a project, but came across a O-360 A1A with 600 SMOH that I bought. Contact Tom Velvick 623-979-2519 home 623-261-2906 cell see pictures at www.eaa538.org/forsale.html > > --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 12:03:18 PM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: --> RV-List message posted by: >--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" > I've looked the statement that the *owner* can do no more than he can on > certified. This is FLAT OUT WRONG. Anyone can work on an experimental > >--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol > Anyone can work on a homebuilt aircraft including a trained chimp or > your dog. You just have to have the condition inspection signed off by > an A&P or AI. > Cy and Youall: I don't mind being wrong, but I have did not see the rule that states a trained chimp, dog or a 5 year old can do Major Modifications, Alterations or Repairs, but I guess it is inferred by exclusion. :- ) (I say only the FSDO knows, as I stated before, and take you choice of answer.) This stuff tends to be in the land of lawyers, courts and judges. John the lawyer wrote me and says Mike, a FSDO inspector(?) has or will reply on this list addressing this? My question to the Inspector and Lawyer is as follows: (Ready to learn) Experimental aircraft are *excluded* from part 43. Is this exemption along with operating limitations, by exclusion and no contrary statement permit *anyone* to modify an experimental airplane? Anyone is someone without a pilot license, aeronautical knowledge, experience or skill (?). That does not sound like "equivalent level of safety". I don't think the **intent** is for major mods to be done by anyone, which is my opinion, "FLAT WRONG" as that may be. (Ready to learn). Part 43.1 par (b) states this part does not apply to experimental aircraft unless it previously held a type certificate." Part 43 is called "MAINTENANCE, PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE, REBUILDING, AND ALTERATION". Part 43 specifies: What can be done, Who can do it and What records to keep, to name a few. In general the "operating limitations" typically address the 12 mo condition inspection and who can do it (namely a the repairman or A&P). Also, I agree *typically* nothing states restrictions to WHO can do major mods/repairs/alterations, so the assumption is the Chimp, Dog and 5 year old can wench on a homebuilt. That sounds like a bit of a stretch, but OK. John and Mike say it is OK. "Repairman" is called that and not "Inspector-man" mean something? To assume only because the *who* can do inspections is specified and *who* can do a major alteration is not specifically restricted, mean Spot and little Jimmy can make safety of flight mods? This is where I scratch my head. This clearly looks like someone is making an interpretation. (ready to Learn) This is what the EAA says: Who can maintain a Homebuilt? FAR Part 43 specifically states that the rules of that part do not apply to amateur-built airplanes. Therefore, any **maintenance** on an experimental airplane can be performed virtually by anyone regardless of credentials. (This does not apply to the condition inspection previously discussed). Let common sense be your guide as to what maintenance you conduct. Note: EAAs statement said nothing about major modifications, repair or alterations. The statement "Let common sense be your guide as to what maintenance you conduct" makes me think this is allowed? Yes, No. Is the EAA reglatory? What is maintenance? (Ready to learn) For the record any pilot can do "preventative" maintenance on their aircraft (certified or not), but not anyone. You must have a pilots license, Part 61 to do preventative maintenance per part 43 appendix A, Par. (c). Of course with A&P direct supervision anyone can do almost anything on an aircraft. Apparently nothing applies to an experimental aircraft. (Ready to learn) Here is the Scenario: A pilot, with no mechanical experience buys a second hand RV, makes some improper or un-airworthy mod, alteration or repair and crashes. He or his estate is being sued in a court of law, defending the modification of the aircraft, without a repairman certificate or A&P license. Also, the FAA is revoking your pilot ticket and you must defend yourself in a court, if for anything the catch all careless and reckless operation, Where is the legal precedence to defend yourself? I guess we will find out but hope not the hard way. Standing by to be amazed and astounded by FARs once again. After 20 years, may be Ill get it. (Still learning). Cheers George PS interesting web site on experimental liability, http://www.aviationlawcorp.com/content/liabhomeblt.html#disclaimer --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 12:24:27 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" >>I've looked the statement that the *owner* can do no more than he can on >>certified. This is FLAT OUT WRONG. Anyone can work on an experimental >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol >>Anyone can work on a homebuilt aircraft including a trained chimp or >>your dog. You just have to have the condition inspection signed off by >>an A&P or AI. >> >> >> > >Cy and Youall: > > >I don't mind being wrong, but I have did not see the rule that states a trained chimp, dog or a 5 year old can do Major Modifications, Alterations or Repairs, but I guess it is inferred by exclusion. :- ) (I say only the FSDO knows, as I stated before, and take you choice of answer.) > > > George you ARE aware that Mike Robertson is DAS FED? :-) Jerry ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 12:37:24 PM PST US From: John Huft Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR/elecr ign --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft Alex, mine was equipped with the CHT probe. I once asked Harry Fenton about it, and he told me it would start to roll back the timing at 435 dF. I felt that was too high, and so I always turned it off at about 400 dF. This was about the only detail I ever got out of Harry or anyone else there, my other questions were always answered with "thats proprietary". There is no mention of the 15 minute timer on the website, only the 15 second delay after power up. I sent the supplement with the rest of my system when I sold it, so I can't look it up. Typical of me not to read all the directions. Randy, reading the LASAR website, I see they claim a spark that is "3 times more spark energy". So I will have to change my writeup. I was told that there was no difference by Dave Anders, who is one of the RVers I respect. Of course we are all wrong from time to time. I will say, however, that my hot starts are much easier with the Lightspeed system. Interesting that the LASAR system uses standard aircraft plugs, with a standard gap setting (.018), but the Lightspeed uses automotive plugs gapped at .035. We all get to make our tradeoffs. I love these experimentals! John Alex Peterson wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft >> >>I put about 200 hours on a LASAR system, so here are some >>more opinions... >> >>Alex, how do you know about the 15 minutes with no advance? I >>never saw >>any sign of this with mine, it always started overheating >>right away. I >>think you just saw that it doesn't advance the timing much at low >>altitude and full throttle. Since I am based at 7650 msl, and >>only get >>about 22.5" map on takeoff, my LASAR would think I was at cruise, >>advance the timing, and overheat on initial climbout. I did >>what Randy >>says, used a breaker switch so I could shut it off. I also >>had to shut >>it off on any hot summer day in cruise, trying to keep CHTs below 400. >> >> > >John, this 15 minute timer is described in the flight manual supplement that >came with the Lasar system. It starts counting when (electrical) power is >first applied, and sets the system to the "climb limit" advance, which I >believe is the 25 degree baseline. After the 15 minute timer expires, the >timing then begins to advance per some built in table. The manual doesn't >say if all systems are so programmed. It could be only those with the CHT >monitoring, I don't know. The manual also says that for those systems >equipped with the CHT temperature monitor, ignition timing is retarded as >the CHT begins to approach the high limit (I believe 425F), until at that >high limit the timing is base, or 25 degrees in our case. > >Was yours CHT probe equipped? Maybe that is the difference. > >Alex Peterson >RV6-A 584 hours >Maple Grove, MN > >http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ > > > > ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 12:40:08 PM PST US From: "Richard V. Reynolds" Subject: RV-List: J.B. Aircraft Engine Service Inc --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" Is J.B. Aircraft Engine Service, Sebring FL (Jim Brod) a good place to buy a rebuilt engine? Richard Reynolds Norfolk, VA RV-6A ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 12:40:31 PM PST US From: "Kevin Williams" Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. --> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" Every time I think Ive got my engine decided, something comes up to confuse me. Im building a RV-8. I decided on an IO-360 180 HP engine. Im going to set it up for basic aerobatics so inverted oil system etc. Im also going with a dual electronic ignition Lasar or Light speed. Im also going to have high compression pistons put in to bump up the power closer to 195hp. Ok So I thought I had it all figured out then I started looking around for a good deal on a mid time engine and I cant believe how many different versions of the IO-360 180hp engine there are. I see vans has the IO-360 M1B listed as the default 180hp engine. Is the M1B the only 180hp engine that will fit into the RV-8 without modifying the plane? Are people buying non M1B engines and making changes to the engines so they meet M1B specs? If so what engines can be bought and converted to the M1B configuration and what engines just cant be converted at all? Argh my head hurts!! Lol your input would be appreciated. Kevin Yellowknife, NT, Canada RV-8 Wanna Be Builder ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 12:44:18 PM PST US From: John Huft Subject: RV-List: more LASAR --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft Just as another data point, here is a forward from the Lancair list. They have been having similar discussions. John -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [LML] Re: Slick Mag Failures From: Halle, John Here is another Slick mag horror story. About three months ago, I started getting an occasional miss in my engine (once or twice a flight.) Over time, it got slightly more frequent but it was never more than one every few minutes. With some experimentation, we discovered that pulling the LASAR circuit breaker solved the problem. Also discovered that, while pulling the CB during ground run-up made a 300 rpm difference, doing so in flight made no difference to any engine parameter, regardless of the altitude at which it was done. Hooking the controller box up to a laptop resulted in a perfect test score so the box and the mags went back to Unison (where nothing happened to them for 10 days but that's another story.) Found out yesterday that the box tests perfect but BOTH mags are shot! I have 320 hrs. tach time on them. I learned the mag mantra early on (probably on my first preflight in 1967): mags are the world's most inefficient ignition system but we use them because they are SIMPLE, RELIABLE and SAFE. And I believed it as a religious doctrine. When I built my airplane, I selected the LASAR system precisely because it had not one but two of these safe, reliable things that would work no matter what if the new-fangled electronics failed. Now I discover that for the last God knows how long, I have been flying around over mountain ranges and in hard IFR with TWO mags that went in the dumpster as soon as the Rockford people saw them. As a final irony, they are pretty close to the only "Certified" parts on my engine (IO-540 exp). I am getting a discount on two replacement mags which I intend to use while I figure out what electronic system to go to. I intend to check them frequently, and I don't mean the run-up check that I have done before every take-off and that has always been perfect. Check out whatever Deakin article claims that runup checks are a complete waste of time, which I now put more stock in than I used to. I have no idea if the controller box is contributing anything but I intend to test that too when I get it reinstalled. And I still don't know why the engine missed only with the LASAR system on. Without it, I would presumably still be fat, dumb and happy (instead of being only two of the foregoing) flying around with two "shot" mags tbat do just fine on runup. -- For archives and unsub http://mail.lancaironline.net/lists/lml/ ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 12:47:32 PM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: --> RV-List message posted by: Disregard my last post. I am "flat out wrong." So if you want to make that flying RV you just bought a twin engine Bi-plane, go for it. However you may have a hard time getting someone to give you a condition inspection. I called my FSDO and ANYONE can make a major modification to a homebuilt as long as they follow the limitations, as you all state. I also called an experimental specialty shop and they confirmed this. It is nice to be wrong for a change (again and again). Side note, the new limitations that allow modification and phase one testing without FAA notification or approval is no longer in fashion. The Fed's (at least in the SE region) want control and oversight again, so according to my local FSDO, new operating limitations will go back to requiring written approval prior to flight test again. No big deal. Feel like I slept at a Holiday Inn, Cheers George --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 01:09:55 PM PST US From: "Oliver Washburn" Subject: Re: RV-List: J.B. Aircraft Engine Service Inc --> RV-List message posted by: "Oliver Washburn" I have cylinder work done there and found them to be very good. Ollie 6A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard V. Reynolds" Subject: RV-List: J.B. Aircraft Engine Service Inc > --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" > > Is J.B. Aircraft Engine Service, Sebring FL (Jim Brod) a good place to > buy a rebuilt engine? > > Richard Reynolds > Norfolk, VA > RV-6A > > > ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 01:43:32 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: J.B. Aircraft Engine Service Inc From: "Chuck Jensen" --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" I had work on my IO-540 done there last year (various things but not really a full rebuild) and I would give them a thumbs up. Knowledgeable, pleasant to deal with, kept to the schedule and cost as about as expected (high--but no more so then anywhere else!). They were responsive on a couple of follow-up items--that weren't really their fault. So, all-in-all, from my experience, I can recommend them without reservation. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard V. Reynolds Subject: RV-List: J.B. Aircraft Engine Service Inc --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" Is J.B. Aircraft Engine Service, Sebring FL (Jim Brod) a good place to buy a rebuilt engine? Richard Reynolds Norfolk, VA RV-6A ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 02:42:56 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Exactly correct. Mike R. >From: "cgalley" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: >Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 11:26:53 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" > >Some else pointed that out as well. My point still is that all maintenance >needs to be done so the person that does the conditional will approve the >plane's return to service. > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Mike Robertson" >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" > > > > Cy, > > > > If I may. The yearly condiction inspection is to determine if the > > aircraft > > is safe to operate. I know it is a play on terms but from the FAA point > > of > > view we say that the aircraft is never airworthy because it has not been > > evaluated and issued an type certificate, only that it is "safe to > > operate". > > Other than that you are entirely correct. > > > > Mike R. > > > >>From: "cgalley" > >>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com > >>To: > >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: > >>Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 16:07:38 -0600 > >> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" > >> > >>I've looked the statement that the owner can do no more than he can on > >>certified. > >>This is FLAT OUT WRONG. > >> > >> Anyone can work on an experimental. > >> > >>One caveat and even this might be wrong. At the yearly conditional > >>inspection, the work has to be good enough to get the plane signed off >as > >>airworthy. > >> > >>Cy Galley > >>EAA Safety Programs Editor > >>Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot > >> > >> > >>----- Original Message ----- > >>From: "Dave Bristol" > >>To: > >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: > >> > >> > >> > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol > >> > > >> > Anyone can work on a homebuilt aircraft including a trained chimp or > >> > your dog. You just have to have the condition inspection signed off >by > >> > an A&P or AI. > >> > > >> > Dave > >> > > >> > gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote: > >> > > >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: > >> >> > >> >> > >> >>Mike: > >> >> > >> >>You are opening a can of worms :- ) The buyer of an experimental > >>aircraft > >> >>can only do routine maintenance, as if it were a Piper or Cessna, as > >> >>far > >> >>as I know. Only the manufacture (builder/repairman) can make major > >> >>mods, > >> >>however I assume(?) an A&P or AI could do it and with the FAA's > >>blessing. > >> >>Again, as in all these matters refer to the FISDO of choice for the > >> >>answer. There is no "type certificate" configuration for exp a/c, so > >>many > >> >>changes slip thru the cracks and are not tracked by the FAA. Anyone > >> >>who > >> >>has a second hand RV may find them self in a regulatory mess if they > >>want > >> >>to make a major changes. The best (easiest) thing would get the >builder > >>to > >> >>sign the mod off if possible. However that is one of the fantastic > >>reasons > >> >>for building your own plane. > >> >> > >> >>Cheers George > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye > >> >>> > >> >>>Mike, > >> >>> > >> >>>I have a question related to this very activity ... and am asking >not > >> >>>so much for myself (I'm still building), but just to satisfy my > >> >>>curiosity. > >> >>> > >> >>>I have had the impression that all these suggestions and >requirements > >> >>>have been tendered with the idea that the person doing the work is >the > >> >>>builder and has a repairman's certificate for the aircraft. However, > >>what > >> >>>are > >> >>>the rules/regs for someone who does NOT have the repairmans > >> >>>certificate > >> >>>and > >> >>>who is NOT an A/P? Somehow I can't imagine that they would be in a > >> >>>position > >> >>>to change their prop, put it into phase 1, perform the flight >testing, > >> >>>and > >> >>>sign it off putting it back in phase 2. Or can they? > >> >>> > >> >>> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >>--------------------------------- > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > >> > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 02:50:50 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Firstly, thank you for your admission. That takes some courage. As to going back to the "old" operating limitations that require FAA approval, that is not quite right. The order clearly states that the FAA does not "approve" the major change, but that you MUST notify them, get concurrence on the test area, and they reserve the right to require more than 5 hours minimum of test flight period. Again, that is per the Order 8130.2F. Mike Robertson >From: >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: >Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 12:46:29 -0800 (PST) > >--> RV-List message posted by: > >Disregard my last post. I am "flat out wrong." So if you want to make that >flying RV you just bought a twin engine Bi-plane, go for it. However you >may have a hard time getting someone to give you a condition inspection. > >I called my FSDO and ANYONE can make a major modification to a homebuilt as >long as they follow the limitations, as you all state. I also called an >experimental specialty shop and they confirmed this. It is nice to be wrong >for a change (again and again). > >Side note, the new limitations that allow modification and phase one >testing without FAA notification or approval is no longer in fashion. The >Fed's (at least in the SE region) want control and oversight again, so >according to my local FSDO, new operating limitations will go back to >requiring written approval prior to flight test again. No big deal. > >Feel like I slept at a Holiday Inn, Cheers George > > >--------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 04:00:26 PM PST US From: Jim Peoples Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric or Manual Trim ? --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Peoples Thanks for the responses... I have found more in the archive, but these really summed up the options clearly. Today I sent my empennage order in to Van's... now if i can just get the hang of using the rv-list, there may be hope for my future. jp --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 05:50:52 PM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol Where do you get a computer printer that will print white? Dave do not archive Scott Vanartsdalen wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen > >Another alternative if you have a color printer for your computer is to print white text onto >clear labels. But it will give the area around the text a bit of a dull appearance. You won't >have that crisp look. I did black on clear for my gray inerior. > >--- Rick Galati wrote: > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati >> >>I use a Brother PT-1950. Using 3/4" black tape, white letters and up to 4 lines of framed >>print, it makes outstanding placards that I have used to identify components all over the >>airframe, including firewall forward. These electronic labelers enable you to adjust the size, >>font and other tools commonly found in your computer Word program. I'm told you can even >>download and print images via a supplied USB cable. I used smaller width tape to identify >>dozens upon dozens of electrical wires. Brother claims the tapes will hold up to harsh >>industrial conditions......we shall see. FYI, the replacement cassette tapes can be expensive. >> Other than the generic white tape with black print, I find it difficult to buy many of >>available widths and colors locally. Brother's on-line store wanted $30 for the aforementioned >>3/4" black tape. I recently bought a copy at Amazon.com for about $16.00. It pays to shop >>around. >> >>Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >-- >Scott VanArtsdalen >RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!! > > When a man does all he can > though it succeeds not well, > blame not him that did it." > -- George Washington > > > > ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 05:53:20 PM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re:Wheel pants --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com Mickey; I used a file to get a better fit between the two halves of the wheel pants. A square or flat file will do. I also used Poly-Fibre "Smooth Prime" to prime them . It goes on with a small roller and you can push down to squish it into the pinholes in that #$% &* fibre glas. A/C S has it in the glas & resins section of their catalog. Mix small amounts since it goes a long way. It washes up with water and sands into lots of snow on the floor. A couple of coats usually takes care of the pinholes. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 06:26:59 PM PST US From: PeterHunt1@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Looking for FWF photos --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com Dean, I just finished my FWF and you are welcome to drop by for a look and a chat of what I did and why I did it. I moved the airplane from my living room to my garage last weekend and hope to have it in the air by May. Pete Hunt, Clearwater RV-6, N216PH All electric IFR panel ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 06:26:59 PM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol Ok George, now you've done it! You have questioned my dog's training and experience, and I'll have you know that he's a better mechanic than a couple of A&P's I've met! Dave Pleeze do not archive gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" >>I've looked the statement that the *owner* can do no more than he can on >>certified. This is FLAT OUT WRONG. Anyone can work on an experimental >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol >>Anyone can work on a homebuilt aircraft including a trained chimp or >>your dog. You just have to have the condition inspection signed off by >>an A&P or AI. >> >> >> > >Cy and Youall: > > >I don't mind being wrong, but I have did not see the rule that states a trained chimp, dog or a 5 year old can do Major Modifications, Alterations or Repairs, but I guess it is inferred by exclusion. :- ) (I say only the FSDO knows, as I stated before, and take you choice of answer.) > > >In general the "operating limitations" typically address the 12 mo condition inspection and who can do it (namely a the repairman or A&P). Also, I agree *typically* nothing states restrictions to WHO can do major mods/repairs/alterations, so the assumption is the Chimp, Dog and 5 year old can wench on a homebuilt. That sounds like a bit of a stretch, but OK. John and Mike say it is OK. "Repairman" is called that and not "Inspector-man" mean something? To assume only because the *who* can do inspections is specified and *who* can do a major alteration is not specifically restricted, mean Spot and little Jimmy can make safety of flight mods? This is where I scratch my head. This clearly looks like someone is making an interpretation. (ready to Learn) > > > > ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 07:52:35 PM PST US From: Denis Walsh Subject: Re: RV-List: Spark Plug quality/source --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh I got my last set from Van's @ $16. He sells the sutolite. they look good, work good so far. Couple hundred hours. You got to search the "list" for Plugs. DLW On Mar 11, 2005, at 10:29 AM, lucky wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) > > Hey, something else new for me to ponder over. Any quality difference > between a champion plug for 20 bucks vs an Autolite for $16? I got to > buy 9 (one spare just in case) so it adds up. But Champion is what > used to be in the engine so.... > > What say you wise ones? > > BTW, is ACS the place most buy online and get the 5% AOPA discount? > Van's doesn't sell 'em... > > thx, > lucky > > Hey, something else new for me to ponder over. Any quality difference > between a champion plug for 20 bucks vs an Autolite for $16? I got to > buy 9 (one spare just in case) so it adds up. But Champion is what > used to be in the engine so.... > > What say you wise ones? > > BTW, is ACS the place most buy online and get the 5% AOPA discount? > Van's doesn't sell 'em... > > thx, > lucky > > ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 09:35:58 PM PST US From: GMC Subject: RE: RV-List: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: GMC Subject: RV-List: White Letters for Panel --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age old question on what make/model of label maker & label paper it takes to print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to to Staples or Office Max and pick up. I have found that the lettering on the label, if not protected with some type of overlay, wears off if touched often. The most common victims in my aircraft are carb heat and fuel selector labels and they need replacement about every 300 hrs (using Casio with gold lettering, black background on black panel). George in Langley BC