Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:03 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (SportAV8R@aol.com)
2. 04:03 AM - Re: Spark Plug quality/source (SportAV8R@aol.com)
3. 05:15 AM - Re: Label Makers (Kelly Patterson)
4. 05:25 AM - sun 100 cancelled (John Huft)
5. 05:28 AM - Re: Odyssey Battery Installation Kit with Panasonic (Kelly Patterson)
6. 05:43 AM - Re: Wheel pants (Kelly Patterson)
7. 05:45 AM - Re: CherryMax Rivets (Kevin Williams)
8. 05:49 AM - Re: sun 100 cancelled (Kyle Boatright)
9. 06:03 AM - Re: CherryMax Rivets (Kyle Boatright)
10. 06:13 AM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Kevin Horton)
11. 06:20 AM - Re: Re: White Letters for Panel (Bob C.)
12. 06:44 AM - Re: CherryMax Rivets (Charlie England)
13. 06:47 AM - Sanding out paint (Richard Crosley)
14. 07:10 AM - Re: Sanding out paint (Kyle Boatright)
15. 07:16 AM - Re: Sanding out paint (Kendel McCarley)
16. 07:21 AM - Re: Sanding out paint (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
17. 07:24 AM - Re: sun 100 cancelled (Tom Gummo)
18. 07:27 AM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Larry Pardue)
19. 07:36 AM - RV-6's on ebay (Morley Bullock)
20. 07:39 AM - Re: sun 100 cancelled (Alex Peterson)
21. 08:16 AM - Fw: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: (cgalley)
22. 10:34 AM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Jim Cimino)
23. 10:46 AM - Airventure Cup Race -was Dyaton (Dayton?) experimental race... (SCOTT SPENCER)
24. 10:48 AM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Kevin Williams)
25. 11:01 AM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Jim Cimino)
26. 11:08 AM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Terry Watson)
27. 11:42 AM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Kevin Horton)
28. 12:40 PM - Re: White Letters for Panel (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
29. 01:07 PM - lycoming breather tube (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
30. 01:31 PM - Re: lycoming breather tube (Brian Denk)
31. 02:25 PM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. ()
32. 03:41 PM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
33. 04:08 PM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Kevin Horton)
34. 04:10 PM - Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. (Jim Cimino)
35. 04:30 PM - ACS MAP Hose (Bob C.)
36. 04:41 PM - #8 screws edge distance question (Mike Draper)
37. 05:28 PM - Re: CherryMax Rivets (HCRV6@aol.com)
38. 06:30 PM - Re: lycoming breather tube (lancenewman)
39. 06:35 PM - Re: Re: White Letters for Panel (lancenewman)
40. 06:38 PM - Re: ACS MAP Hose (Dave Saylor)
41. 08:25 PM - Re: White Letters for Panel (RV6 Flyer)
42. 09:09 PM - Cheap Navaid servo for sale? (Finn Lassen)
43. 09:16 PM - Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | White Letters for Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
The Brother P-Touch machine I have uses laminated tapes; I doubt they'd ever wear
off.
-Stormy
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug quality/source |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Spruce offers a 5% discount to AOPA members??
I wish I had known that; I've dropped a fortune there over the years.
-Stormy
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Label Makers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
lucky wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
>OK, I have the day off and ready to go out and buy a label maker
>suitable for the panel. Can someone give me the final answer to the age
old question on what make/model of label maker & label paper it takes to
print out quality labels with white letters that will actually stick to the
panel paint over time? Prefer one I just run to Staples or Office Max and
pick up.
>
One bit of info that may help many builders like myself...
I bought the Brother P-Touch label maker then order a 1/4" "Industrial
Adhesive" TZ tape from some on-line shop.
The extra sticky tape clings tenaciously to wiring, panels, whatever.
The backside of the 1/4" tape has a split running lengthwise and makes for
simple removal of the backing.
The wider tape backing is not split; requires a sharp fingernail; and are
frustrating to say the least.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A tip FWF & I hate fiberglass
PHX, AZ
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | sun 100 cancelled |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
There is no joy in mudville. See
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/sunfunracebulletin.php
John Huft
RV8 "Nuisance"
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Odyssey Battery Installation Kit with Panasonic |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
Walter has a great mod here that I used for another reason.
My Panasonic 20 Ah battery was an interference fit in the Van's PC680
battery box as it was binding at the corners. I cut one corner of the box
and installed the hinge. Now I can pull the battery by pulling the hinge
pin. If you get the Panasonic, which sells for under $50 from Digikey, you
will need to do this mod to the box.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A with an Emag FWF
PHX, AZ
From: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
I made a quick modification which is to make the front panel
of the box removable so the battery just pops out the front.
I used hinges on each side to retain the front of the box.
It works very well and is simple to do.
http://www.rv7-a.com/firewall_finish.htm#battery box mods
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
I hate fiberglass too Mickey, but had pretty good results with the following
method. BTW - Van's plans & instructions are very good in this area.
First get the pants to fit with a tight line - don't worry about a step or
ridge between them, it will sand and fill. Use a random orbit sander for
the smooth finish.
Next buy intersection fairings from Fairings Etc.
http://www.fairings-etc.com/ or your favorite supplier. These are excellent
parts and only require minor fitting, sanding and glassing to the pants.
You should also use a heat gun to warm any low / high spots and gently bend
the glass a little at a time to shape. It is very flexible when warm.
Next check out this website: http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html and
finish the fairings together. Have fun making dust. (NOT!!!)
Kelly Patterson
95 % aluminum plane builder
PHX, AZ
Time: 07:50:09 AM PST US
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Wheel pants
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I'm very "glass challenged", which is why I'm building
an aluminum airplane.
Anyone have any special tricks for doing the wheel pants?
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | CherryMax Rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
What are "CherryMax" rivets. I read on a web site that a builder was using
them but I have no idea what they are.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: sun 100 cancelled |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Huft" <rv8@lazy8.net>
Subject: RV-List: sun 100 cancelled
> --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
>
> There is no joy in mudville. See
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/sunfunracebulletin.php
>
> John Huft
> RV8 "Nuisance"
>
I've always enjoyed watching the Sun 100. It is very impressive to see a
stream of aircraft that were built in garages and backyard workshops scream
overhead at 200-300 mph. Only in America...
That said, I can understand the safety concerns. If competitors followed
the procedures, the risks would be very low, but I've seen several instances
where pilots missed the final "pylon" and converged at the finish line. A
couple of years ago, I witnessed what I was certain would be a mid-air over
the finish because of this problem. Thankfully, there was no midair, but it
sure got my attention.
I doubt that the race will come back.
Do not archive.
KB
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CherryMax Rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: CherryMax Rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
> What are "CherryMax" rivets. I read on a web site that a builder was
> using
> them but I have no idea what they are.
>
Cherrymax rivets are structural "aircraft grade" pop rivets. They are a
direct structural replacement for driven rivets. In addition to the normal
diameters, they also come in slightly over-diameter sizes to help in
situations where the hole is larger than standard. They are very handy if
you need a structural rivet in a location where you're unable to use a
driven rivet.
Those are the "pro's".
The con's are that the rivets are expensive. I don't have a price sheet
handy, but IIRC, they are 5x or more as expensive as hardware store pop
rivets and probably 50x as expensive as driven rivets. Also, since they
have a steel (?) center core, they are much more difficult to drill out than
conventional rivets or hardware store pop rivets.
KB
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
>Every time I think Ive got my engine decided, something comes up to confuse
>me. Im building a RV-8. I decided on an IO-360 180 HP engine. Im going
>to set it up for basic aerobatics so inverted oil system etc. Im also
>going with a dual electronic ignition Lasar or Light speed. Im also going
>to have high compression pistons put in to bump up the power closer to
>195hp.
>
>Ok So I thought I had it all figured out then I started looking around for a
>good deal on a mid time engine and I cant believe how many different
>versions of the IO-360 180hp engine there are. I see vans has the IO-360
>M1B listed as the default 180hp engine.
>
>Is the M1B the only 180hp engine that will fit into the RV-8 without
>modifying the plane? Are people buying non M1B engines and making changes
>to the engines so they meet M1B specs? If so what engines can be bought
>and converted to the M1B configuration and what engines just cant be
>converted at all?
>
>Argh my head hurts!! Lol your input would be appreciated.
The IO-360-M1A and M1B are the only 180 hp IO-360s that have the fuel
injection servo mounted on the front of the oil sump. That allows it
to be used with Van's "horizontal induction" air box, which means you
get the cowling with the smooth front (i.e. there is no protruding
inlet for engine induction air intake).
Other 180 hp IO-360s will work, but they have the fuel injection
servo mounted on the bottom of the oil sump, similar to most
carbureted versions. You need the cowling with the air induction
inlet sticking out the bottom. Van really designed this setup around
a carbureted engine, so there might be a bit of air box rework to
make it fit - other builders should be able to give a better story
here.
Looking at the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS) for the IO-360
engines, it looks like the following 180 hp IO-360s might work:
IO-360-B1B
IO-360-B1C
IO-360-B1D
IO-360-B1F
IO-360-B1F6
IO-360-B2E (fixed pitch prop only)
IO-360-B2F (fixed pitch prop only)
IO-360-B2F6 (fixed pitch prop only)
IO-360-B4A
IO-360-E1A (type 2 Dynafocal mount)
IO-360-F1A (modifications to allow turbo-charging - find out what
the mods are before buying this one.).
IO-360-M1A (front mounted fuel injection and front mounted prop governor).
IO-360-M1B (front mounted fuel injection and rear mounted prop governor).
Other than the IO-360-M1A and M1B, all the above engines would have
bottom mounted fuel injection servos.
The following models look like they might cause grief:
IO-360-B1A - it has Simmonds fuel injection, which is uncommon. I
suspect you might have additional problems making it fit the airbox,
etc. But I'm guessing here.
IO-360-B1E - has different oil sump and induction manifolding. This
might interfere with the engine mount. Further investigation needed.
IO-360-B1G6 - has bed type engine mount. Not compatible with the
engine mounts that Van sells.
The above info is completely speculative, and is offered without any
warrantee as to its accuracy. Use at your own risk.
To view the TCDS, go to: http://www.airweb.faa.gov/tcds, then search
for IO-360. Scroll past the Continental IO-360s to find a link to a
Textron Lycoming IO-360 (there a gazillion links, one for each model
of Lycoming IO-360, but they all point to the same TCDS). You'll
have to click on one more link, then you'll end up viewing the TCDS.
There is a section starting on page 15 that attempts to explain the
differences between the various models. The explanations can be a
misleading though, e.g. it says the IO-360-B1A is "Similar to
IO-360-A1A except has Simmonds Type 530 fuel injector. Does not have
tuned induction". That is very misleading, as the IO-360-A1A is a
200 hp, angle-valve engine, and the IO-360-B1A is a 180 hp
parallel-valve engine. But if you stick with the 180 hp variants, I
think the story on the differences between models is probably OK.
You can also buy a carbureted O-360, and add Airflow Performance Fuel
injection. This would be approximately equivalent to an IO-360-B1B.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: White Letters for Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
The only way is to use white stock and "print" the background in the
color of your choice! In "Word" for example you can select white
letters w/ dark background. It a little tricky but can be done!
Good Luck,
Bob - building RV-8 N678RC - FWF/Panel
On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 17:49:04 -0800, Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Where do you get a computer printer that will print white?
>
> Dave
> do not archive
>
> Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Another alternative if you have a color printer for your computer is to print
white text onto
> >clear labels. But it will give the area around the text a bit of a dull appearance.
You won't
> >have that crisp look. I did black on clear for my gray inerior.
> >
> >--- Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >>I use a Brother PT-1950. Using 3/4" black tape, white letters and up to 4
lines of framed
> >>print, it makes outstanding placards that I have used to identify components
all over the
> >>airframe, including firewall forward. These electronic labelers enable you
to adjust the size,
> >>font and other tools commonly found in your computer Word program. I'm told
you can even
> >>download and print images via a supplied USB cable. I used smaller width tape
to identify
> >>dozens upon dozens of electrical wires. Brother claims the tapes will hold
up to harsh
> >>industrial conditions......we shall see. FYI, the replacement cassette tapes
can be expensive.
> >> Other than the generic white tape with black print, I find it difficult to
buy many of
> >>available widths and colors locally. Brother's on-line store wanted $30 for
the aforementioned
> >>3/4" black tape. I recently bought a copy at Amazon.com for about $16.00.
It pays to shop
> >>around.
> >>
> >>Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >--
> >Scott VanArtsdalen
> >RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
> >
> > When a man does all he can
> > though it succeeds not well,
> > blame not him that did it."
> > -- George Washington
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CherryMax Rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Kevin Williams wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
>What are "CherryMax" rivets. I read on a web site that a builder was using
>them but I have no idea what they are.
>
pop rivets on steroids
They are 'aviation quality' pulled rivets. Cherry is a brand name.
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Sanding out paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley@adelphia.net>
Just say you painted your airplane yourself and saved $5000 to $10000, but it wasn't
perfect. Did I tell you I painted it myself? I used Imron, single stage.
And just say you wanted to sand it out in a few "orange peel" areas. What's
the best method and stuff to use?
Rich Crosley
RV-8, N948RC
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Sanding out paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Sanding out paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley@adelphia.net>
>
> Just say you painted your airplane yourself and saved $5000 to $10000, but
> it wasn't perfect. Did I tell you I painted it myself? I used Imron,
> single stage. And just say you wanted to sand it out in a few "orange
> peel" areas. What's the best method and stuff to use?
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8, N948RC
It ain't easy. You need to wet sand, beginning with no coarser than 800
grit paper, progressing to 1600 and maybe a step beyond that. Then you need
to buff the paint to a final sheen using a rotary buffer and an appropriate
buffing compound. Your local auto body store (the one where you bought the
Imron) should be able to point you in the right direction.
If you have not done this before, you're likely to have at least two
problems:
1) If you sand enough to remove the orange peel, you're likely to sand
through the paint in a few areas - particularly rivet heads and/or panel
edges.
2) If you've never used a high speed buffer before, you're likely to mess up
a time or two and "catch" a panel edge with a buffing pad. This will either
burn the paint, deform the edge, or rip the paint loose.
One thought - if it is just a few areas, why not hire a pro for $200 to come
by and spend a saturday at your shop sanding and buffing. It'll be $200
well spent (as compared to buying or renting a buffer, possibly making a
mess and having to re-spray, etc.)
KB
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Sanding out paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kendel McCarley <kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
Ah... a question right up my alley. Today's project is to finish paint
a '77 MG Midget (http://home.earthlink.net/~kmmccarley/77midget.html),
so I'm taking a break from sanding right now.
There was a good article in EAA Sport Aviation a few years back on this
subject. The short of it is...
- All modern paints will orange peel at least some and color sanding is
a necessary thing for a show quality job
- Start with an appropriate grit... from 800 to 1200 depending on
imperfections
- Sand each grit in a single direction... orthogonal to the previous
grit. The idea is to cross-cut the grooves made by the previous grit.
- 2000 grit is about the end of sanding. After that, you're into using
a polisher with different compounds up to a "glaze".
What I've learned from doing color sanding is...
- A rough cut compound on the polisher will take over after 1600 grit
- A little dish washing soap (and I do mean a little) in the water
bucket will help sandpaper glide over the paint to make the process
easier. Just keep dipping that paper into the soapy water.
- A variety of foam rubber backing blocks help. I even use an old,
thick neoprene mouse pad for a backing pad at times.
- Runs and drips are easily removed with a burr put onto a razor blade
and then drawn across the imperfection
- Don't try to do all your sanding at once. Impatience is the enemy,
so beer, bathroom, and BSing with a buddy breaks will make the job come
out better.
Good luck with this. I've seen some RVs with "crappy" amateur paint
jobs that could be turned into gleaming projects with the application of
some elbow grease. My final piece of advice would be to do just one
section at a time. Once you see how well a 3' x 3' area can turn out,
you'll be hooked.
On Sat, 2005-03-12 at 06:46 -0800, Richard Crosley wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley@adelphia.net>
>
> Just say you painted your airplane yourself and saved $5000 to $10000, but it
wasn't perfect. Did I tell you I painted it myself? I used Imron, single stage.
And just say you wanted to sand it out in a few "orange peel" areas. What's
the best method and stuff to use?
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8, N948RC
>
--
Kendel McCarley <kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Sanding out paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Rich, That stuff is tuff as nails!! Very hard to sand and buff back up to
a nice finish. I would sand the orange peel and use Clear over the whole
aircraft at this point. Imron is available in clear.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Sanding out paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley@adelphia.net>
>
> Just say you painted your airplane yourself and saved $5000 to $10000, but
> it wasn't perfect. Did I tell you I painted it myself? I used Imron,
> single stage. And just say you wanted to sand it out in a few "orange
> peel" areas. What's the best method and stuff to use?
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8, N948RC
>
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: sun 100 cancelled |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
The two air races that started at Apple Valley, CA (CopperState and Golden
West-I think) which Aircraft Spruce sponsored have been canceled for the
last several years over insurance issues. So I bet Sun-in-Fun Races don't
come back either. I didn't get to see the end but did enjoy helping get
them off as our EAA Chapter 768 helped Spruce organize things at APV.
Tom Gummo
Fired "Race Marshall" :-(
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Huft" <rv8@lazy8.net>
Subject: RV-List: sun 100 cancelled
> --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
>
> There is no joy in mudville. See
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/sunfunracebulletin.php
>
> John Huft
> RV8 "Nuisance"
>
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>>
>>Every time I think Ive got my engine decided, something comes up to
>>confuse
>>me. Im building a RV-8. I decided on an IO-360 180 HP engine. Im going
>>to set it up for basic aerobatics so inverted oil system etc.
Kevin,
Be aware that it is a pretty big pain and fairly expensive to set up an
engine and fuel system for inverted flight. If all you really want to do is
"basic" aerobatics you don't need to set the airplane up for inverted
flight. You can do loops, rolls, cubans, split esses, snaps and sort of
cheating hammerheads with a carburator and normal fuel and oil systems.
That is a lot of pretty fun stuff. To do sustained inverted flight you need
the inverted systems. Have you done sustained inverted flight? Do you
really like negative G? Do you think all that work is worth it?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Morley Bullock <bullockm@shaw.ca>
There is an RV-6 business opportunity on ebay under aircraft projects if
anyone is interested.
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | sun 100 cancelled |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> The two air races that started at Apple Valley, CA
> (CopperState and Golden
> West-I think) which Aircraft Spruce sponsored have been
> canceled for the
> last several years over insurance issues. So I bet
> Sun-in-Fun Races don't
> come back either. I didn't get to see the end but did enjoy
Too bad. I just about went nuts trying to get event insurance for our RV
Forum the last few years, and we don't have any flying events! The
museum/hangar that we used was full of invaluable aircraft, and so it made
sense for the owner to require event insurance, but it was very difficult to
obtain (the insurance company never even cared to ask about what was in the
museum - probably a good thing, but it just shows how little they care to
know about their liability). That also was a part of our decision to chuck
the Forum, and just have a fun fly-in/camp-in at a great private strip
nearby instead. Oh, in case you have your calendars out, mark down the
weekend of September 10th and 11th for the Minnesota RV fly-in. We had a
blast last year (it could be that some pumpkins might have "fallen" out of a
Stearman that happened to come by).
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 584 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Do not archive
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I question the statement about a FSDO going back and requiring permission
when the current FAA order and operating limits are not written that way.
Here is what Earl Lawrence had to say.
Note! Once again the individuals at a FSDO make up their rules contrary to
the official rules. Some one pointed out that a polite request to see the
written source can be educational.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Lawrence" <elawrence@eaa.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was:
Yes and No
Can the region do it without violating FAA policy no. Is FAA HQ going to do
anything about it NO. That is why every EAA member should only go to EAA
Volunteer AB DARS as they follow the official rules not the local FAA made
up ones. And no the policy is not going back to requiring FAA written
approval despite what the local FAA folks wish would happen. FAA
management wants those local FAA folks worrying about the airlines not some
homebuilder.
Earl
-----Original Message-----
From: cgalley [mailto:cgalley@qcbc.org]
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was:
Is this possible to change operating limitations for just one region.
Thought the FAA was trying to standardize.
----- Original Message -----
From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
> Disregard my last post. I am "flat out wrong." So if you want to make that
> flying RV you just bought a twin engine Bi-plane, go for it. However you
> may have a hard time getting someone to give you a condition inspection.
>
> I called my FSDO and ANYONE can make a major modification to a homebuilt
> as long as they follow the limitations, as you all state. I also called an
> experimental specialty shop and they confirmed this. It is nice to be
> wrong for a change (again and again).
>
> Side note, the new limitations that allow modification and phase one
> testing without FAA notification or approval is no longer in fashion. The
> Fed's (at least in the SE region) want control and oversight again, so
> according to my local FSDO, new operating limitations will go back to
> requiring written approval prior to flight test again. No big deal.
>
> Feel like I slept at a Holiday Inn, Cheers George
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
Received-SPF: none
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
The only 180 HP fuel injected engine that is easy to install is the
M-series. All others have the servo in the bottom or rear of the sump and
are very tricky to set up the air system. I had purchased an IO-360-B1E
with rear facing injection and did not want to go through all the hassle of
setting up the induction so I purchased a set of intake tubes and a 200 HP
sump and installed the sump with the servo now facing forward. The intake
tubes required modification to fit the 180 HP engine. This was long before
the M-series was available, so there were no stock tubes that would fit.
New tubes are very expensive and I think you will have a hard time finding a
used set for the 180-M. None of the brackets for the fuel and mixture that
were available then would work so we had to make them also, and there is no
stock exhaust that will fit my modification. I had Larry Vetermin build an
exhaust for me. A friend of mine is building an RV-7 with the injection on
the bottom and he is not happy with the induction so he is also doing what I
did. From what he said and I have seen, the air filter set up that Van
sells for the injected engine will also need to be modified for the 180 HP
version even if you use the M-series engine. My engine with the modified
tubes has run great and many very experience pilots have commented on it's
smoothness. I did a flow test in flight and have found that the four
cylinders are within 2/10's of a gallon per hour of each other which
explains the smoothness. I installed a flop tube in the left take to give
it inverted fuel, but not the inverted oil system because I do not care for
negative g's. As someone pointed out, you can do a lot and still keep it in
the positive g's. You can even do limited inverted flight as long as you
give up altitude by pulling back slightly on the stick to give positive g's.
I can not say what people are doing with the bottom mounted fuel injection,
you may be able to use it with a scoop on the lower cowl.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
15+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>>
>>Every time I think Ive got my engine decided, something comes up to
>>confuse
>>me. Im building a RV-8. I decided on an IO-360 180 HP engine. Im going
>>to set it up for basic aerobatics so inverted oil system etc. Im also
>>going with a dual electronic ignition Lasar or Light speed. Im also going
>>to have high compression pistons put in to bump up the power closer to
>>195hp.
>>
>>Ok So I thought I had it all figured out then I started looking around for
>>a
>>good deal on a mid time engine and I cant believe how many different
>>versions of the IO-360 180hp engine there are. I see vans has the IO-360
>>M1B listed as the default 180hp engine.
>>
>>Is the M1B the only 180hp engine that will fit into the RV-8 without
>>modifying the plane? Are people buying non M1B engines and making changes
>>to the engines so they meet M1B specs? If so what engines can be bought
>>and converted to the M1B configuration and what engines just cant be
>>converted at all?
>>
>>Argh my head hurts!! Lol your input would be appreciated.
>
> The IO-360-M1A and M1B are the only 180 hp IO-360s that have the fuel
> injection servo mounted on the front of the oil sump. That allows it
> to be used with Van's "horizontal induction" air box, which means you
> get the cowling with the smooth front (i.e. there is no protruding
> inlet for engine induction air intake).
>
> Other 180 hp IO-360s will work, but they have the fuel injection
> servo mounted on the bottom of the oil sump, similar to most
> carbureted versions. You need the cowling with the air induction
> inlet sticking out the bottom. Van really designed this setup around
> a carbureted engine, so there might be a bit of air box rework to
> make it fit - other builders should be able to give a better story
> here.
>
> Looking at the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS) for the IO-360
> engines, it looks like the following 180 hp IO-360s might work:
>
> IO-360-B1B
> IO-360-B1C
> IO-360-B1D
> IO-360-B1F
> IO-360-B1F6
> IO-360-B2E (fixed pitch prop only)
> IO-360-B2F (fixed pitch prop only)
> IO-360-B2F6 (fixed pitch prop only)
> IO-360-B4A
> IO-360-E1A (type 2 Dynafocal mount)
> IO-360-F1A (modifications to allow turbo-charging - find out what
> the mods are before buying this one.).
> IO-360-M1A (front mounted fuel injection and front mounted prop
> governor).
> IO-360-M1B (front mounted fuel injection and rear mounted prop governor).
>
> Other than the IO-360-M1A and M1B, all the above engines would have
> bottom mounted fuel injection servos.
>
> The following models look like they might cause grief:
> IO-360-B1A - it has Simmonds fuel injection, which is uncommon. I
> suspect you might have additional problems making it fit the airbox,
> etc. But I'm guessing here.
>
> IO-360-B1E - has different oil sump and induction manifolding. This
> might interfere with the engine mount. Further investigation needed.
>
> IO-360-B1G6 - has bed type engine mount. Not compatible with the
> engine mounts that Van sells.
>
> The above info is completely speculative, and is offered without any
> warrantee as to its accuracy. Use at your own risk.
>
> To view the TCDS, go to: http://www.airweb.faa.gov/tcds, then search
> for IO-360. Scroll past the Continental IO-360s to find a link to a
> Textron Lycoming IO-360 (there a gazillion links, one for each model
> of Lycoming IO-360, but they all point to the same TCDS). You'll
> have to click on one more link, then you'll end up viewing the TCDS.
>
> There is a section starting on page 15 that attempts to explain the
> differences between the various models. The explanations can be a
> misleading though, e.g. it says the IO-360-B1A is "Similar to
> IO-360-A1A except has Simmonds Type 530 fuel injector. Does not have
> tuned induction". That is very misleading, as the IO-360-A1A is a
> 200 hp, angle-valve engine, and the IO-360-B1A is a 180 hp
> parallel-valve engine. But if you stick with the 180 hp variants, I
> think the story on the differences between models is probably OK.
>
> You can also buy a carbureted O-360, and add Airflow Performance Fuel
> injection. This would be approximately equivalent to an IO-360-B1B.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Airventure Cup Race -was Dyaton (Dayton?) experimental race... |
--> RV-List message posted by: SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic@sbcglobal.net>
This race is a blast! I've done it two years now and won my class my first year
(2003). They had the 20 or so RV's in the race divided up according to displacement
that year. I was fastest of the O-320 RV's with my fixed pitch 150 RV-4.
Like you, I didn't think I could win either. Boy was I surprised.
Last year there were fewer planes in the race, and they didn't divide up the classes.
So I raced against IO-360 powered RV's and came in 4th (like 10 of us total
I think). We need more RV's to show up.
If you can follow instructions, fly your airplane with some degree of authority,
keep your head on a swivel, and don't freak out when near other planes then
you'll have no problem. Honestly, I think flying the fly-in arrival procedure
at Sun-N-Fun is more dangerous and demanding. If you've flown to OSH before and
shot the arrival when it's halfway busy and didn't have any issues with it all,
then you have what it takes.
Like Jon Huft says... it really doesn't matter who wins -we all have a ball. Really.
It's a roving airplane-nut party with some fast cross-country flying thrown
in. Lots of extra perks, like a catered dinner *in* the Air Force Museum -right
on the museum floor with the planes. We had the whole place to ourselves
for 3+ hours. You get to hang out with some really cool people too. We have some
dinners at OSH too -lots of fun social time.
Ya'll come race with us!!! I've heard EAA wants to nix this race -they don't think
it really 'benefits the membership' -I've heard. *Everyone* who shows up
for it has a really fun time.
I'm convinced that if most of you came, you'd have a ball too...
Scott
N4ZW
'Race 74' -"Think Fast"
>>> I will be there. No formation skills required. It is lots of fun, it
doesn't matter where you finish (well, maybe a little).
John Huft
Race 13 "Nuisance"
Charles Heathco wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
>I was wondering if any of our group plans to run in this race, especially
any
of the formation folks as they would have the requisite skills. (Mike, the
super
8 gonna be ready by then?) I think it might be fun, but in my 150hp FP,
it
would be prop wash city for me :-) charlie heathco
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Thanks for the info it all helps alot.
Ok so to keep the headaches down to a minimum I should really be looking for
the M1B. I think this is a fairly new engine though and I suspect there
won't be many out there on the used market.
Larry you made some very good points about whether I want and need an
inverted system. Now that it has been pointed out that I can do all I want
to do with a standard no inverted system I'll probably drop the inverted
bit.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
The only 180 HP fuel injected engine that is easy to install is the
M-series. All others have the servo in the bottom or rear of the sump and
are very tricky to set up the air system. I had purchased an IO-360-B1E
with rear facing injection and did not want to go through all the hassle of
setting up the induction so I purchased a set of intake tubes and a 200 HP
sump and installed the sump with the servo now facing forward. The intake
tubes required modification to fit the 180 HP engine. This was long before
the M-series was available, so there were no stock tubes that would fit.
New tubes are very expensive and I think you will have a hard time finding a
used set for the 180-M. None of the brackets for the fuel and mixture that
were available then would work so we had to make them also, and there is no
stock exhaust that will fit my modification. I had Larry Vetermin build an
exhaust for me. A friend of mine is building an RV-7 with the injection on
the bottom and he is not happy with the induction so he is also doing what I
did. From what he said and I have seen, the air filter set up that Van
sells for the injected engine will also need to be modified for the 180 HP
version even if you use the M-series engine. My engine with the modified
tubes has run great and many very experience pilots have commented on it's
smoothness. I did a flow test in flight and have found that the four
cylinders are within 2/10's of a gallon per hour of each other which
explains the smoothness. I installed a flop tube in the left take to give
it inverted fuel, but not the inverted oil system because I do not care for
negative g's. As someone pointed out, you can do a lot and still keep it in
the positive g's. You can even do limited inverted flight as long as you
give up altitude by pulling back slightly on the stick to give positive g's.
I can not say what people are doing with the bottom mounted fuel injection,
you may be able to use it with a scoop on the lower cowl.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
15+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>>
>>Every time I think Ive got my engine decided, something comes up to
>>confuse
>>me. Im building a RV-8. I decided on an IO-360 180 HP engine. Im going
>>to set it up for basic aerobatics so inverted oil system etc. Im also
>>going with a dual electronic ignition Lasar or Light speed. Im also
going
>>to have high compression pistons put in to bump up the power closer to
>>195hp.
>>
>>Ok So I thought I had it all figured out then I started looking around
for
>>a
>>good deal on a mid time engine and I cant believe how many different
>>versions of the IO-360 180hp engine there are. I see vans has the IO-360
>>M1B listed as the default 180hp engine.
>>
>>Is the M1B the only 180hp engine that will fit into the RV-8 without
>>modifying the plane? Are people buying non M1B engines and making
changes
>>to the engines so they meet M1B specs? If so what engines can be bought
>>and converted to the M1B configuration and what engines just cant be
>>converted at all?
>>
>>Argh my head hurts!! Lol your input would be appreciated.
>
> The IO-360-M1A and M1B are the only 180 hp IO-360s that have the fuel
> injection servo mounted on the front of the oil sump. That allows it
> to be used with Van's "horizontal induction" air box, which means you
> get the cowling with the smooth front (i.e. there is no protruding
> inlet for engine induction air intake).
>
> Other 180 hp IO-360s will work, but they have the fuel injection
> servo mounted on the bottom of the oil sump, similar to most
> carbureted versions. You need the cowling with the air induction
> inlet sticking out the bottom. Van really designed this setup around
> a carbureted engine, so there might be a bit of air box rework to
> make it fit - other builders should be able to give a better story
> here.
>
> Looking at the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS) for the IO-360
> engines, it looks like the following 180 hp IO-360s might work:
>
> IO-360-B1B
> IO-360-B1C
> IO-360-B1D
> IO-360-B1F
> IO-360-B1F6
> IO-360-B2E (fixed pitch prop only)
> IO-360-B2F (fixed pitch prop only)
> IO-360-B2F6 (fixed pitch prop only)
> IO-360-B4A
> IO-360-E1A (type 2 Dynafocal mount)
> IO-360-F1A (modifications to allow turbo-charging - find out what
> the mods are before buying this one.).
> IO-360-M1A (front mounted fuel injection and front mounted prop
> governor).
> IO-360-M1B (front mounted fuel injection and rear mounted prop
governor).
>
> Other than the IO-360-M1A and M1B, all the above engines would have
> bottom mounted fuel injection servos.
>
> The following models look like they might cause grief:
> IO-360-B1A - it has Simmonds fuel injection, which is uncommon. I
> suspect you might have additional problems making it fit the airbox,
> etc. But I'm guessing here.
>
> IO-360-B1E - has different oil sump and induction manifolding. This
> might interfere with the engine mount. Further investigation needed.
>
> IO-360-B1G6 - has bed type engine mount. Not compatible with the
> engine mounts that Van sells.
>
> The above info is completely speculative, and is offered without any
> warrantee as to its accuracy. Use at your own risk.
>
> To view the TCDS, go to: http://www.airweb.faa.gov/tcds, then search
> for IO-360. Scroll past the Continental IO-360s to find a link to a
> Textron Lycoming IO-360 (there a gazillion links, one for each model
> of Lycoming IO-360, but they all point to the same TCDS). You'll
> have to click on one more link, then you'll end up viewing the TCDS.
>
> There is a section starting on page 15 that attempts to explain the
> differences between the various models. The explanations can be a
> misleading though, e.g. it says the IO-360-B1A is "Similar to
> IO-360-A1A except has Simmonds Type 530 fuel injector. Does not have
> tuned induction". That is very misleading, as the IO-360-A1A is a
> 200 hp, angle-valve engine, and the IO-360-B1A is a 180 hp
> parallel-valve engine. But if you stick with the 180 hp variants, I
> think the story on the differences between models is probably OK.
>
> You can also buy a carbureted O-360, and add Airflow Performance Fuel
> injection. This would be approximately equivalent to an IO-360-B1B.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
Received-SPF: none
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Kevin,
I think you will have a very hard time finding an M-series engine as they
have only been out for about three years. I am not sure if this is the same
engine that they are using in the late model C-172 or not. If you can find
a wrecked one, you can use the sump and tubes and then Van's stock exhaust
will work.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks for the info it all helps alot.
>
> Ok so to keep the headaches down to a minimum I should really be looking
> for
> the M1B. I think this is a fairly new engine though and I suspect there
> won't be many out there on the used market.
>
> Larry you made some very good points about whether I want and need an
> inverted system. Now that it has been pointed out that I can do all I
> want
> to do with a standard no inverted system I'll probably drop the inverted
> bit.
>
>
> Kevin
>
> Yellowknife, NT, Canada
> RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
>
>
> From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
> Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 13:33:38 -0500
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
>
> The only 180 HP fuel injected engine that is easy to install is the
> M-series. All others have the servo in the bottom or rear of the sump and
> are very tricky to set up the air system. I had purchased an IO-360-B1E
> with rear facing injection and did not want to go through all the hassle
> of
> setting up the induction so I purchased a set of intake tubes and a 200 HP
> sump and installed the sump with the servo now facing forward. The intake
> tubes required modification to fit the 180 HP engine. This was long
> before
> the M-series was available, so there were no stock tubes that would fit.
> New tubes are very expensive and I think you will have a hard time finding
> a
> used set for the 180-M. None of the brackets for the fuel and mixture
> that
> were available then would work so we had to make them also, and there is
> no
> stock exhaust that will fit my modification. I had Larry Vetermin build
> an
> exhaust for me. A friend of mine is building an RV-7 with the injection
> on
> the bottom and he is not happy with the induction so he is also doing what
> I
> did. From what he said and I have seen, the air filter set up that Van
> sells for the injected engine will also need to be modified for the 180 HP
> version even if you use the M-series engine. My engine with the modified
> tubes has run great and many very experience pilots have commented on it's
> smoothness. I did a flow test in flight and have found that the four
> cylinders are within 2/10's of a gallon per hour of each other which
> explains the smoothness. I installed a flop tube in the left take to give
> it inverted fuel, but not the inverted oil system because I do not care
> for
> negative g's. As someone pointed out, you can do a lot and still keep it
> in
> the positive g's. You can even do limited inverted flight as long as you
> give up altitude by pulling back slightly on the stick to give positive
> g's.
> I can not say what people are doing with the bottom mounted fuel
> injection,
> you may be able to use it with a scoop on the lower cowl.
> Jim
>
> Jim Cimino
> N7TL
> RV-8 S/N 80039
> 15+ Hours
> http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
> >>
> >>Every time I think Ive got my engine decided, something comes up to
> >>confuse
> >>me. Im building a RV-8. I decided on an IO-360 180 HP engine. Im
> >>going
> >>to set it up for basic aerobatics so inverted oil system etc. Im also
> >>going with a dual electronic ignition Lasar or Light speed. Im also
> going
> >>to have high compression pistons put in to bump up the power closer to
> >>195hp.
> >>
> >>Ok So I thought I had it all figured out then I started looking around
> for
> >>a
> >>good deal on a mid time engine and I cant believe how many different
> >>versions of the IO-360 180hp engine there are. I see vans has the
> >>IO-360
> >>M1B listed as the default 180hp engine.
> >>
> >>Is the M1B the only 180hp engine that will fit into the RV-8 without
> >>modifying the plane? Are people buying non M1B engines and making
> changes
> >>to the engines so they meet M1B specs? If so what engines can be
> >>bought
> >>and converted to the M1B configuration and what engines just cant be
> >>converted at all?
> >>
> >>Argh my head hurts!! Lol your input would be appreciated.
> >
> > The IO-360-M1A and M1B are the only 180 hp IO-360s that have the fuel
> > injection servo mounted on the front of the oil sump. That allows it
> > to be used with Van's "horizontal induction" air box, which means you
> > get the cowling with the smooth front (i.e. there is no protruding
> > inlet for engine induction air intake).
> >
> > Other 180 hp IO-360s will work, but they have the fuel injection
> > servo mounted on the bottom of the oil sump, similar to most
> > carbureted versions. You need the cowling with the air induction
> > inlet sticking out the bottom. Van really designed this setup around
> > a carbureted engine, so there might be a bit of air box rework to
> > make it fit - other builders should be able to give a better story
> > here.
> >
> > Looking at the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS) for the IO-360
> > engines, it looks like the following 180 hp IO-360s might work:
> >
> > IO-360-B1B
> > IO-360-B1C
> > IO-360-B1D
> > IO-360-B1F
> > IO-360-B1F6
> > IO-360-B2E (fixed pitch prop only)
> > IO-360-B2F (fixed pitch prop only)
> > IO-360-B2F6 (fixed pitch prop only)
> > IO-360-B4A
> > IO-360-E1A (type 2 Dynafocal mount)
> > IO-360-F1A (modifications to allow turbo-charging - find out what
> > the mods are before buying this one.).
> > IO-360-M1A (front mounted fuel injection and front mounted prop
> > governor).
> > IO-360-M1B (front mounted fuel injection and rear mounted prop
> governor).
> >
> > Other than the IO-360-M1A and M1B, all the above engines would have
> > bottom mounted fuel injection servos.
> >
> > The following models look like they might cause grief:
> > IO-360-B1A - it has Simmonds fuel injection, which is uncommon. I
> > suspect you might have additional problems making it fit the airbox,
> > etc. But I'm guessing here.
> >
> > IO-360-B1E - has different oil sump and induction manifolding. This
> > might interfere with the engine mount. Further investigation needed.
> >
> > IO-360-B1G6 - has bed type engine mount. Not compatible with the
> > engine mounts that Van sells.
> >
> > The above info is completely speculative, and is offered without any
> > warrantee as to its accuracy. Use at your own risk.
> >
> > To view the TCDS, go to: http://www.airweb.faa.gov/tcds, then search
> > for IO-360. Scroll past the Continental IO-360s to find a link to a
> > Textron Lycoming IO-360 (there a gazillion links, one for each model
> > of Lycoming IO-360, but they all point to the same TCDS). You'll
> > have to click on one more link, then you'll end up viewing the TCDS.
> >
> > There is a section starting on page 15 that attempts to explain the
> > differences between the various models. The explanations can be a
> > misleading though, e.g. it says the IO-360-B1A is "Similar to
> > IO-360-A1A except has Simmonds Type 530 fuel injector. Does not have
> > tuned induction". That is very misleading, as the IO-360-A1A is a
> > 200 hp, angle-valve engine, and the IO-360-B1A is a 180 hp
> > parallel-valve engine. But if you stick with the 180 hp variants, I
> > think the story on the differences between models is probably OK.
> >
> > You can also buy a carbureted O-360, and add Airflow Performance Fuel
> > injection. This would be approximately equivalent to an IO-360-B1B.
> > --
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I bought an IO-360-B1B built by Aero Sport Power from Superior parts for my
RV-8a. This is a nominal 180 hp engine with an Airflow Performance fuel
injection system mounted on the bottom of the sump, and LightSpeed ignition
on the right side. I am currently fitting the filtered air box, which I had
to offset about 3/4" to the right to get it to line up with the air scoop in
the cowl. This engine really seems to be designed for the RV-8/8a. I have
encountered no real problems yet that were not due to me not knowing what I
was doing. I would also suggest that Bart at Aero Sport Power in Kamloops
would be an excellent source of information. He might also be able to
rebuild or modify an engine that you might find used.
Terry
RV-8A
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Williams
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Thanks for the info it all helps alot.
Ok so to keep the headaches down to a minimum I should really be looking for
the M1B. I think this is a fairly new engine though and I suspect there
won't be many out there on the used market.
Larry you made some very good points about whether I want and need an
inverted system. Now that it has been pointed out that I can do all I want
to do with a standard no inverted system I'll probably drop the inverted
bit.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
> You can also buy a carbureted O-360, and add Airflow Performance Fuel
> injection. This would be approximately equivalent to an IO-360-B1B.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
>
>Kevin,
> I think you will have a very hard time finding an M-series engine as they
>have only been out for about three years. I am not sure if this is the same
>engine that they are using in the late model C-172 or not. If you can find
>a wrecked one, you can use the sump and tubes and then Van's stock exhaust
>will work.
The new C-172s have an IO-360-L2A, according to the C172 TCDS. The
IO-360 TCDS says that this engine is similar to an IO-360-B2F, except
for a lower rating (the standard rating of the L2A is 160 hp at 2400
rpm, although it has an alternate rating of 180 hp at 2700 rpm).
Being similar to an IO-360-B2F means a bottom mounted fuel injection
servo, and a fixed pitch prop. So, I'm not sure there is any
advantage to finding one of these engines.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | White Letters for Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Wow, didn't expect all the varying responses. I did put all the responses in one
word document for future reference. One thing someone told me was that with
their powdwer coated panel, the tape wouldn't stick. I see the TZS is the super
stick laminated tape, as opposed to just the TZ and it also comes in white
on clear. So I thought I'd pass that along. I didn't see anything but the
TZ in the local stores but you can order this super sticky stuff online cheaper
than the normal stuff was in the local stores.
Lucky
TZS135 View Product Advisor
1/2" White on Clear Extra Strength Tape 4 of 20 matches
Printer Friendly Version
Estimated Street Price: $18.99
About
This tape features our exclusive laminated tape process and our Extra Strength
Adhesive with up to twice the adhesive strength of our Standard Laminated tapes.
These labels stay on under both normal conditions and in harsh indoor and outdoor
environments. Recommended for use on textured, rough or uneven surfaces.
Great for slippery painted metal items or powder coated surfaces. Each tape
is 26.2 ft. long.
Wow, didn't expect all the varying responses. I did put all the responses in one
word document for future reference. One thing someone told me was that with
their powdwer coated panel, the tape wouldn't stick. I see the TZS is the super
stick laminated tape, as opposed to just the TZ and it also comes in white on
clear. So I thought I'd pass that along. I didn't see anything but the TZ in
the local stores but you can order this super sticky stuff online cheaper than
the normal stuff was in the local stores.
Lucky
TZS135
<TD noWrap background=images/ButtonBlank.gif><A class=noUnderline onfocus=this.blur()
')">View Product Advisor
<IMG height=19 src="http://www.advizia.com/brother/images/ButtonEnd.gif" width=5><IMG height=1 onerror=L() src="http://www.advizia.com/brother/images/grey2.gif" width=580 vspace=5 border=0>
1/2" White on Clear Extra Strength Tape
<IMG height=13 onerror=L() src="http://www.advizia.com/brother/images/PreviousArrow_On.gif" width=7 border=0>
4 of 20 matches
<IMG height=13 onerror=L() src="http://www.advizia.com/brother/images/NextArrow_On.gif" width=7 border=0><IMG onerror=L() src="http://www.advizia.com/brother/images/clear.gif" width=5>
Printer Friendly Version
<IMG src="http://www.advizia.com/accountimages/145/1130/hires/TZS135.jpg" vspace=17>
Estimated Street Price: $18.99
<IMG height=4 src="http://www.advizia.com/brother/images/clear.gif" width=4>
<IMG height=19 onerror=L() src="http://www.advizia.com/brother/images/TabL_On.gif" width=3>
<A class=subNavOn onfocus=this.blur() ')">About
<IMG height=19 onerror=L() src="http://www.advizia.com/brother/images/TabR_On.gif" width=5>
This tape features our exclusive laminated tape process and our Extra Strength
Adhesive with up to twice the adhesive strength of our Standard Laminated tapes.
These labels stay on under both normal conditions and in harsh indoor and outdoor
environments. Recommended for use on textured, rough or uneven surfaces.
Great for slippery painted metal items or powder coated surfaces. Each tape
is 26.2 ft. long.
<IMG src="http://www.advizia.com/accountimages/145/where2buy2.jpg" width=160 border=0>
<IMG src="http://www.advizia.com/brother/images/clear.gif" width=15>
<A onclick="OpenBrotherWin('TrackWTBReport.asp?To=BrotherMall')" :;"><IMG src="http://www.advizia.com/accountimages/145/brothermall2.gif" border=0>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | lycoming breather tube |
0.00 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.00 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Van's FW drawing shows the bottom bend of their breather tube facing forwards (looking
kind of like a ram air effect is going on). They don't show any exhaust
stack in relation to the breather tube. How important is it to mount the bend
in the tube forward and should I have mounted the breather tube so that the
overflow would have landed on the hot exhaust or just let the crap fall on the
inside of the cowl?
Also, they hint two adel clamps should be used but I only used one because I didn't
want to hard mount the tube so much since it's attached to the shaking engine.
Is that going to generally be OK or should I go with what Van's sort of
drew?
thx,
lucky
Van's FW drawing shows the bottom bend of their breather tube facing forwards (looking
kind of like a ram air effect is going on). They don't show any exhaust
stack in relation to the breather tube. How important is it to mount the bend
in the tube forward and should I have mounted the breather tube so that the
overflow would have landed on the hot exhaust or just let the crap fall on the
inside of the cowl?
Also, they hint two adel clamps should be used but I only used one because I didn't
want to hard mount the tube so much since it's attached to the shaking engine.
Is that going to generally be OK or should I go with what Van's sort ofdrew?
thx,
lucky
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | lycoming breather tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Van's FW drawing shows the bottom bend of their breather tube facing
>forwards (looking kind of like a ram air effect is going on). They don't
>show any exhaust stack in relation to the breather tube. How important is
>it to mount the bend in the tube forward and should I have mounted the
>breather tube so that the overflow would have landed on the hot exhaust or
>just let the crap fall on the inside of the cowl?
>
>Also, they hint two adel clamps should be used but I only used one because
>I didn't want to hard mount the tube so much since it's attached to the
>shaking engine. Is that going to generally be OK or should I go with what
>Van's sort of drew?
>
>
>thx,
>lucky
>
I have my vent hose routed straight down and discharging directly over the
top of one of the pipes maybe a couple of inches forward of the firewall
plane. A short length of steel pipe is inserted into the hose (length of
rubber radiator hose) and a single adel clamp mounts it to the engine mount.
The remaining free length of rubber hose allows it to move with the wobbly
shaky Lycosaur.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
I am building an RV-8 and I have an IO-360-A1A which I believe is 200HP. Are
you telling me that it will not work?
I also have a Hartzel CS prop.
Bud Silvers
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
>Every time I think Ive got my engine decided, something comes up to confuse
>me. Im building a RV-8. I decided on an IO-360 180 HP engine. Im going
>to set it up for basic aerobatics so inverted oil system etc. Im also
>going with a dual electronic ignition Lasar or Light speed. Im also going
>to have high compression pistons put in to bump up the power closer to
>195hp.
>
>Ok So I thought I had it all figured out then I started looking around for
a
>good deal on a mid time engine and I cant believe how many different
>versions of the IO-360 180hp engine there are. I see vans has the IO-360
>M1B listed as the default 180hp engine.
>
>Is the M1B the only 180hp engine that will fit into the RV-8 without
>modifying the plane? Are people buying non M1B engines and making changes
>to the engines so they meet M1B specs? If so what engines can be bought
>and converted to the M1B configuration and what engines just cant be
>converted at all?
>
>Argh my head hurts!! Lol your input would be appreciated.
The IO-360-M1A and M1B are the only 180 hp IO-360s that have the fuel
injection servo mounted on the front of the oil sump. That allows it
to be used with Van's "horizontal induction" air box, which means you
get the cowling with the smooth front (i.e. there is no protruding
inlet for engine induction air intake).
Other 180 hp IO-360s will work, but they have the fuel injection
servo mounted on the bottom of the oil sump, similar to most
carbureted versions. You need the cowling with the air induction
inlet sticking out the bottom. Van really designed this setup around
a carbureted engine, so there might be a bit of air box rework to
make it fit - other builders should be able to give a better story
here.
Looking at the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS) for the IO-360
engines, it looks like the following 180 hp IO-360s might work:
IO-360-B1B
IO-360-B1C
IO-360-B1D
IO-360-B1F
IO-360-B1F6
IO-360-B2E (fixed pitch prop only)
IO-360-B2F (fixed pitch prop only)
IO-360-B2F6 (fixed pitch prop only)
IO-360-B4A
IO-360-E1A (type 2 Dynafocal mount)
IO-360-F1A (modifications to allow turbo-charging - find out what
the mods are before buying this one.).
IO-360-M1A (front mounted fuel injection and front mounted prop governor).
IO-360-M1B (front mounted fuel injection and rear mounted prop governor).
Other than the IO-360-M1A and M1B, all the above engines would have
bottom mounted fuel injection servos.
The following models look like they might cause grief:
IO-360-B1A - it has Simmonds fuel injection, which is uncommon. I
suspect you might have additional problems making it fit the airbox,
etc. But I'm guessing here.
IO-360-B1E - has different oil sump and induction manifolding. This
might interfere with the engine mount. Further investigation needed.
IO-360-B1G6 - has bed type engine mount. Not compatible with the
engine mounts that Van sells.
The above info is completely speculative, and is offered without any
warrantee as to its accuracy. Use at your own risk.
To view the TCDS, go to: http://www.airweb.faa.gov/tcds, then search
for IO-360. Scroll past the Continental IO-360s to find a link to a
Textron Lycoming IO-360 (there a gazillion links, one for each model
of Lycoming IO-360, but they all point to the same TCDS). You'll
have to click on one more link, then you'll end up viewing the TCDS.
There is a section starting on page 15 that attempts to explain the
differences between the various models. The explanations can be a
misleading though, e.g. it says the IO-360-B1A is "Similar to
IO-360-A1A except has Simmonds Type 530 fuel injector. Does not have
tuned induction". That is very misleading, as the IO-360-A1A is a
200 hp, angle-valve engine, and the IO-360-B1A is a 180 hp
parallel-valve engine. But if you stick with the 180 hp variants, I
think the story on the differences between models is probably OK.
You can also buy a carbureted O-360, and add Airflow Performance Fuel
injection. This would be approximately equivalent to an IO-360-B1B.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
flynlow@usaviator.net
Subject: RE: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
I am building an RV-8 and I have an IO-360-A1A which I believe is 200HP.
Are you telling me that it will not work?
I also have a Hartzel CS prop.
Bud Silvers
Bud: The first factory -8 was built with a 200hp engine. Dana
Overall's Feb flyin brought in several -8's with the 200hp engines. The
first "snorkle" intake was developed for the forward looking servo on
that aircraft.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
I only listed 180 hp IO-360s, as that was what the original poster
was interested in. The IO-360-A1A will be perfect.
Kevin
At 15:24 -0700 12/3/05, Bud Silvers wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
>I am building an RV-8 and I have an IO-360-A1A which I believe is 200HP. Are
>you telling me that it will not work?
>
>I also have a Hartzel CS prop.
>
>Bud Silvers
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>>
>>Every time I think Ive got my engine decided, something comes up to confuse
>>me. Im building a RV-8. I decided on an IO-360 180 HP engine. Im going
>>to set it up for basic aerobatics so inverted oil system etc. Im also
>>going with a dual electronic ignition Lasar or Light speed. Im also going
>>to have high compression pistons put in to bump up the power closer to
>>195hp.
>>
>>Ok So I thought I had it all figured out then I started looking around for
>a
>>good deal on a mid time engine and I cant believe how many different
>>versions of the IO-360 180hp engine there are. I see vans has the IO-360
>>M1B listed as the default 180hp engine.
>>
>>Is the M1B the only 180hp engine that will fit into the RV-8 without
>>modifying the plane? Are people buying non M1B engines and making changes
>>to the engines so they meet M1B specs? If so what engines can be bought
>>and converted to the M1B configuration and what engines just cant be
>>converted at all?
>>
>>Argh my head hurts!! Lol your input would be appreciated.
>
>The IO-360-M1A and M1B are the only 180 hp IO-360s that have the fuel
>injection servo mounted on the front of the oil sump. That allows it
>to be used with Van's "horizontal induction" air box, which means you
>get the cowling with the smooth front (i.e. there is no protruding
>inlet for engine induction air intake).
>
>Other 180 hp IO-360s will work, but they have the fuel injection
>servo mounted on the bottom of the oil sump, similar to most
>carbureted versions. You need the cowling with the air induction
>inlet sticking out the bottom. Van really designed this setup around
>a carbureted engine, so there might be a bit of air box rework to
>make it fit - other builders should be able to give a better story
>here.
>
>Looking at the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS) for the IO-360
>engines, it looks like the following 180 hp IO-360s might work:
>
>IO-360-B1B
>IO-360-B1C
>IO-360-B1D
>IO-360-B1F
>IO-360-B1F6
>IO-360-B2E (fixed pitch prop only)
>IO-360-B2F (fixed pitch prop only)
>IO-360-B2F6 (fixed pitch prop only)
>IO-360-B4A
>IO-360-E1A (type 2 Dynafocal mount)
>IO-360-F1A (modifications to allow turbo-charging - find out what
>the mods are before buying this one.).
>IO-360-M1A (front mounted fuel injection and front mounted prop governor).
>IO-360-M1B (front mounted fuel injection and rear mounted prop governor).
>
>Other than the IO-360-M1A and M1B, all the above engines would have
>bottom mounted fuel injection servos.
>
>The following models look like they might cause grief:
>IO-360-B1A - it has Simmonds fuel injection, which is uncommon. I
>suspect you might have additional problems making it fit the airbox,
>etc. But I'm guessing here.
>
>IO-360-B1E - has different oil sump and induction manifolding. This
>might interfere with the engine mount. Further investigation needed.
>
>IO-360-B1G6 - has bed type engine mount. Not compatible with the
>engine mounts that Van sells.
>
>The above info is completely speculative, and is offered without any
>warrantee as to its accuracy. Use at your own risk.
>
>To view the TCDS, go to: http://www.airweb.faa.gov/tcds, then search
>for IO-360. Scroll past the Continental IO-360s to find a link to a
>Textron Lycoming IO-360 (there a gazillion links, one for each model
>of Lycoming IO-360, but they all point to the same TCDS). You'll
>have to click on one more link, then you'll end up viewing the TCDS.
>
>There is a section starting on page 15 that attempts to explain the
>differences between the various models. The explanations can be a
>misleading though, e.g. it says the IO-360-B1A is "Similar to
>IO-360-A1A except has Simmonds Type 530 fuel injector. Does not have
>tuned induction". That is very misleading, as the IO-360-A1A is a
>200 hp, angle-valve engine, and the IO-360-B1A is a 180 hp
>parallel-valve engine. But if you stick with the 180 hp variants, I
>think the story on the differences between models is probably OK.
>
>You can also buy a carbureted O-360, and add Airflow Performance Fuel
>injection. This would be approximately equivalent to an IO-360-B1B.
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines. |
Received-SPF: none
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Bud,
There is no problem with A1A as far as I know, as long as the injector
servo is facing forward.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
150+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort"
> <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> flynlow@usaviator.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
> I am building an RV-8 and I have an IO-360-A1A which I believe is 200HP.
> Are you telling me that it will not work?
>
> I also have a Hartzel CS prop.
>
> Bud Silvers
>
> Bud: The first factory -8 was built with a 200hp engine. Dana
> Overall's Feb flyin brought in several -8's with the 200hp engines. The
> first "snorkle" intake was developed for the forward looking servo on
> that aircraft.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
>
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
I'm starting to install the ACS Engine Monitor on my TXM-360 (read
O-360) . . . the MAP Sensor they sent looks like you would just camp
a hose on it. I planned to come off the engine with a 37 degree
fitting, but maybe that's overkill?
How did other hook up their MAP to the ACS unit?
Thanks,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 to be N678RC - Engine / Panel / Finishing (Slowly!)
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | #8 screws edge distance question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Draper <mdraper@nww.com>
Does the same general rules for edge distance for rivets also apply to
screws and platenuts?
I just started working on my RV-8 QB fuse and am installing the flooring
with #8 screws and platenuts as called out in the plans. When I trial fit
the 829APP prepunched floor skin, the #8 screw holes line up outboard of the
centerlines on both right and left sides.
The best I can get is 1/4 edge distance to the center of the #8 screw holes.
Will this work?
Thanks in advance for the replies.
-Mike Draper
RV-8 QB Fuse
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2604" name=GENERATOR>
Does the same
general rules for edge distance for rivets also apply to screws and
platenuts?
<FONT face=Arial
size=2>
I just started
working on my RV-8 QB fuse and am installing the flooring with #8 screws and
platenuts as called out in the plans. When I trial fit the
829APPprepunched floor skin, the #8 screw holes line up outboard of the
centerlines on both right and left sides.
<FONT face=Arial
size=2>
The best I can get
is 1/4 edge distance to the center of the #8 screw holes. Will
this work?
<FONT face=Arial
size=2>
Thanks in advance
for the replies.
<FONT face=Arial
size=2>
-Mike
Draper
RV-8 QB
Fuse
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CherryMax Rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/12/05 5:46:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,
kevinsky18@hotmail.com writes:
<< What are "CherryMax" rivets. I read on a web site that a builder was
using
the but I have no idea what they are. >>
They are a high quality blind rivet that can be substituted for a solid rivet
in some applications. The oversize ones are roughly equivalent in shear
strength to a solid rivet of that nominal size. Check your Aircraft Spruce
catalog on page 96 for a brief description and a list of the ones they carry.
The
CherryMax grip gauge is a must for proper determination of grip length when
using CherryMax rivets.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: lycoming breather tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lancenewman" <lancenewman@comcast.net>
Let's get something clear. Are you talking about the air/oil breather tube,
the tank vents, or the mechanical fuel pump breather tube? The air-oil
breather tube should exit close to the hot exhaust stack to minimize oil
build up on the belly. The fuel pump breather should never exit anywhere
near the hot exhaust for obvious reasons. The only forward bend I know of in
the fuel tank vents to the outboard sides of the belly. Yes they do build a
ram positive pressure of about 1/2 psi. This adds to the overall pressure on
your fuel pressure guage. If you don't have the fuel vent line open end
inside the tank high enough out of the fuel, it will dump overboard when the
tanks are full especially on a hot sunny day when your tank is facing the
sun. Happens more often on un-painted RV's. If this happens, reach inside
the tank and try to bend the line up slightly more inside the tank. It is
easy to do.
LN
RV6
Flying since last July
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: lycoming breather tube
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
>>Van's FW drawing shows the bottom bend of their breather tube facing
>>forwards (looking kind of like a ram air effect is going on). They don't
>>show any exhaust stack in relation to the breather tube. How important is
>>it to mount the bend in the tube forward and should I have mounted the
>>breather tube so that the overflow would have landed on the hot exhaust or
>>just let the crap fall on the inside of the cowl?
>>
>>Also, they hint two adel clamps should be used but I only used one because
>>I didn't want to hard mount the tube so much since it's attached to the
>>shaking engine. Is that going to generally be OK or should I go with what
>>Van's sort of drew?
>>
>>
>>thx,
>>lucky
>>
>
> I have my vent hose routed straight down and discharging directly over the
> top of one of the pipes maybe a couple of inches forward of the firewall
> plane. A short length of steel pipe is inserted into the hose (length of
> rubber radiator hose) and a single adel clamp mounts it to the engine
> mount.
> The remaining free length of rubber hose allows it to move with the
> wobbly
> shaky Lycosaur.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
>
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: White Letters for Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lancenewman" <lancenewman@comcast.net>
I tried several different types of decales for my panel. I liked the Cannon
label maker best. It prints black on clear, or black on white background.
Any thin plaquerds eventually dis-color and peel. I finally used the cannon
to space my letters to my liking and took the samples into Office Depot to
have perminent 1/8" thick plastic plaquerds made. The cost for the whole
panel was about 160.00 for over 25 plaquerds. I really liked the result and
they will last forever.
LN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: White Letters for Panel
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Where do you get a computer printer that will print white?
>
> Dave
> do not archive
>
> Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>>
>>Another alternative if you have a color printer for your computer is to
>>print white text onto
>>clear labels. But it will give the area around the text a bit of a dull
>>appearance. You won't
>>have that crisp look. I did black on clear for my gray inerior.
>>
>>--- Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>>>
>>>I use a Brother PT-1950. Using 3/4" black tape, white letters and up to
>>>4 lines of framed
>>>print, it makes outstanding placards that I have used to identify
>>>components all over the
>>>airframe, including firewall forward. These electronic labelers enable
>>>you to adjust the size,
>>>font and other tools commonly found in your computer Word program. I'm
>>>told you can even
>>>download and print images via a supplied USB cable. I used smaller width
>>>tape to identify
>>>dozens upon dozens of electrical wires. Brother claims the tapes will
>>>hold up to harsh
>>>industrial conditions......we shall see. FYI, the replacement cassette
>>>tapes can be expensive.
>>> Other than the generic white tape with black print, I find it difficult
>>> to buy many of
>>>available widths and colors locally. Brother's on-line store wanted $30
>>>for the aforementioned
>>>3/4" black tape. I recently bought a copy at Amazon.com for about
>>>$16.00. It pays to shop
>>>around.
>>>
>>>Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>--
>>Scott VanArtsdalen
>>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>>
>> When a man does all he can
>> though it succeeds not well,
>> blame not him that did it."
>> -- George Washington
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Saylor" <dave@aircraftersllc.com>
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: White Letters for Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
8 years ago, I had the the entire panel engraved for $135 US. I painted the
panel then used a paint stick to make the letters white.
I used the Brother Label Maker to make other permanent labels. (fuel
selector, Remote PTT, Headset jack, mic jack, Do Not Step, etc. and they are
still good after 7 years of flying) The Brother Labels are great and resist
just about everything. I tried Jasco Paint Stripper on a set of labels. It
removed the paint but not the labels.
White on Clear is not available for all models. I purchased a replacement
Brother label maker at Christmas for less than $20 US. My old one would
work on AC but would not work on batteries any more.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,642 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
I've been told that a number of people are changing from Navaid to
TruTrak and thus have Navaid servos for sale.
I'm interested in aquiring a servo (only) cheap ($200 or less).
A $75 1/3 scale RC servo was suggested, but apparently does not have a
clutch.
Any other souces for a cheap servo? (For a home-brewed wing-leveller. I
prefer not having springs hindering stick movement.)
Finn
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>
>I've been told that a number of people are changing from Navaid to
>TruTrak and thus have Navaid servos for sale.
>
>I'm interested in aquiring a servo (only) cheap ($200 or less).
>
>A $75 1/3 scale RC servo was suggested, but apparently does not have a
>clutch.
>
>Any other souces for a cheap servo? (For a home-brewed wing-leveller. I
>prefer not having springs hindering stick movement.)
>
>Finn
>
>
>
Have you tried the spring setup? It does work very well. I believe that
most people that are changing to TruTrak
are keeping the servos and just replacing the gyros.
Jerry
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|