Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:59 AM - Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: Auto Pilots (Doug Gray)
2. 03:57 AM - Re: Wheel pants (Mickey Coggins)
3. 04:41 AM - Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: Auto Pilots (Ed Anderson)
4. 04:42 AM - Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? (Ed Anderson)
5. 05:23 AM - Re: Wheel pants (Bob C.)
6. 05:51 AM - Re: Got Wax? (Matthew Laseter)
7. 06:20 AM - Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? (Finn Lassen)
8. 06:31 AM - Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: Auto (Finn Lassen)
9. 06:38 AM - Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? (James E. Clark)
10. 06:52 AM - Re: Starter Switch Problem (Tim Bryan)
11. 07:24 AM - Return springs on throttle and mixture (Leland)
12. 07:36 AM - ACS Discount (Mike Plecenik)
13. 07:53 AM - More On lost power on takeopff (Charles Heathco)
14. 08:10 AM - Re: ACS Discount (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
15. 08:41 AM - Re: ACS Discount (SportAV8R@aol.com)
16. 08:59 AM - Re: ACS Discount ()
17. 09:02 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (Scott Vanartsdalen)
18. 09:14 AM - Re: ACS Discount (Charlie Kuss)
19. 09:33 AM - Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? (Ed Anderson)
20. 09:42 AM - Re: ACS Discount (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
21. 09:47 AM - Re: White Letters for Panel (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
22. 09:52 AM - Van's Belt Buckles (Glenn Brasch)
23. 09:53 AM - Re: Return springs on throttle and mixture (Jeff Dowling)
24. 10:00 AM - Re: Lost power on takeoff again (HCRV6@aol.com)
25. 10:12 AM - Silding canopy (Zeidman, Richard B)
26. 10:17 AM - Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? (Finn Lassen)
27. 10:26 AM - Re: Return springs on throttle and mixture (Sam Buchanan)
28. 10:33 AM - Re: RV List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines (sturdy@att.net)
29. 10:45 AM - Displaying Airworthiness Cert. (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
30. 11:06 AM - Re: Return springs on throttle and mixture (linn walters)
31. 11:13 AM - Re: Displaying Airworthiness Cert. (Scott Vanartsdalen)
32. 11:17 AM - Lost power on takeoff again (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
33. 12:08 PM - competition for Airnav? (Charlie England)
34. 12:09 PM - Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? (Charlie England)
35. 12:18 PM - Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? (SportAV8R@aol.com)
36. 02:04 PM - Van's seat patterns (Mickey Coggins)
37. 02:12 PM - Need known good mag (Charles Heathco)
38. 02:37 PM - Strobe Lighting ()
39. 03:37 PM - Wheel pants fairing (Charles Heathco)
40. 04:05 PM - Re: Strobe Lighting (Robert Cutter)
41. 04:05 PM - Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA (Kevin Williams)
42. 04:07 PM - epanelbuilder (Ron Schreck)
43. 04:26 PM - Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: Auto Pilots ()
44. 04:37 PM - Re: Strobe Lighting (Bill Dube)
45. 04:37 PM - Re: epanelbuilder (Wayne Glasser)
46. 04:38 PM - Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in (Kevin Horton)
47. 04:56 PM - RVers near Alice Springs, Australia? (Tim Lewis)
48. 05:06 PM - Re: Wheel pants fairing (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
49. 05:12 PM - Re: RVers near Alice Springs, Australia? (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
50. 05:12 PM - Re: epanelbuilder (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
51. 05:14 PM - Re: Van's seat patterns (Mark Rose)
52. 05:35 PM - E.I.S MONITOR (bertrv6@highstream.net)
53. 05:54 PM - Re: Strobe Lighting (Charlie Kuss)
54. 05:56 PM - Re: E.I.S MONITOR (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
55. 05:59 PM - Re: Van's seat patterns (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
56. 06:06 PM - Re: epanelbuilder (Mark/Micki Phillips)
57. 06:26 PM - Re: epanelbuilder (Scott VanArtsdalen)
58. 07:20 PM - Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: Auto Pilots (Ed Anderson)
59. 07:50 PM - Sanding out paint (dave)
60. 07:52 PM - Re: epanelbuilder (J D Newsum)
61. 08:41 PM - exhaust system (smoothweasel@juno.com)
62. 09:10 PM - teflon hose assembly problems (sarg314)
63. 09:22 PM - Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA (steven dinieri)
64. 11:55 PM - Re: Strobe Lighting (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all benefit.
I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves building
a clutched servo. A
stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I have done
this myself for a
job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't get to the
bottom of that at
the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead printer.
Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a little more
information.
Doug Gray
'6 Fuse, now off the jig.
Ed Anderson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as always.
>
> Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it will
> provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with clock
> frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
>
> Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater than that
> shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there. However, I
> have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you indicate
> is desirable.
>
> My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the servo push
> a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell crank. The
> rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually similar to
> Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A). However, there
> are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would work, but
> might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch might be
> a more elegant way to go.
>
> Thanks for the suggestions
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>>
>>At 08:36 PM 3/10/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>>
>>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing leveler. I
>>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
>>
> (PSPICE)
>
>>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
>>
> approach
>
>>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers more
>>
> move
>
>>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a bit
>>
> much.
>
>>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited growth
>>>capability.
>>
>> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any other
>>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system and
>>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
>>
>>
>>
>>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will start out
>>
> as
>
>>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe that
>>
> a
>
>>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best bet
>>
> (and
>
>>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two control
>>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to your set
>>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement this
>>
> would
>
>>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be compared to
>>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would generate
>>
> a
>
>>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
>>
>> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to the
>
> inner
>
>>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the heading
>>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
>>
>>
>>> A small difference
>>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference a
>>
> faster
>
>>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously quite
>>
> a
>
>>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the general
>>
> idea.
>
>>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale model
>>>aircraft servo.
>>
>> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
>
> clutch
>
>>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the hints. A couple of hours of filing and they
fit together fine. There is a bit of a gap between the
forward part and the aft, and I've put a couple of strips
of fiberglass on the forward half to help it fit better.
It will probably need a couple more hours of sanding.
I also ordered the Sam James DVD on how to do this stuff.
I found the Ordorff cassettes helpful as well.
Best regards,
Mickey
Oldsfolks@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> Mickey;
> I used a file to get a better fit between the two halves of the wheel
> pants. A square or flat file will do.
> I also used Poly-Fibre "Smooth Prime" to prime them . It goes on with a
> small roller and you can push down to squish it into the pinholes in that #$%
> &*
> fibre glas. A/C S has it in the glas & resins section of their catalog.
> Mix small amounts since it goes a long way. It washes up with water and sands
> into lots of snow on the floor. A couple of coats usually takes care of
> the pinholes.
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Hi Doug,
I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a stepper
motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on the
command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
benefit.
>
> I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
>
> The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
building a clutched servo. A
> stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I have
done this myself for a
> job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't get
to the bottom of that at
> the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
>
> Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead printer.
>
> Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
little more information.
>
> Doug Gray
> '6 Fuse, now off the jig.
>
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> >
> > Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
always.
> >
> > Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
will
> > provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with clock
> > frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
> >
> > Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater than
that
> > shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there. However,
I
> > have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
indicate
> > is desirable.
> >
> > My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the servo
push
> > a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell crank.
The
> > rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually similar to
> > Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A). However,
there
> > are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would work,
but
> > might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch might
be
> > a more elegant way to go.
> >
> > Thanks for the suggestions
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > Matthews, NC
> > eanderson@carolina.rr.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> >>
> >>At 08:36 PM 3/10/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> >>
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
<eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >>>
> >>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing leveler.
I
> >>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
> >>
> > (PSPICE)
> >
> >>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
> >>
> > approach
> >
> >>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers more
> >>
> > move
> >
> >>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a bit
> >>
> > much.
> >
> >>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited growth
> >>>capability.
> >>
> >> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any other
> >>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system and
> >>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will start
out
> >>
> > as
> >
> >>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
that
> >>
> > a
> >
> >>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best bet
> >>
> > (and
> >
> >>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two control
> >>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to your
set
> >>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement this
> >>
> > would
> >
> >>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be compared
to
> >>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
generate
> >>
> > a
> >
> >>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
> >>
> >> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to the
> >
> > inner
> >
> >>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
heading
> >>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
> >>
> >>
> >>> A small difference
> >>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference a
> >>
> > faster
> >
> >>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
quite
> >>
> > a
> >
> >>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the general
> >>
> > idea.
> >
> >>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
model
> >>>aircraft servo.
> >>
> >> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
> >
> > clutch
> >
> >>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Finn,
I believe that Van sells an electric aileron trim kit - undoubtedly the size
tab it calls for would be a starting point. Someone on the list may have
the diagram which shows the cut-out size.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cheap Navaid servo for sale?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>
> I'm not concerned about any additional mass on the aileron - should be
> easy to rebalance the aileron to compensate for the slight weight of the
> servo, rod and piano hinge (pour a bit of lead into the water pipe). I'm
> concerned about the trim tab "flapping" in the wind producing flutter.
>
> I like the trim tab a lot because it eliminates need for servo clutch,
> and because I already have two fixed trim tabs compensating for my
> twisted wings, which I then could get rid of (the tabs, not the wings :).
>
> Any idea of how long and deep into the aileron I need to make the tab? I
> assume the the size of the elevator trim tab would be way too much.
> Van's electric aileron trim tab is just a lenght of piano hinge in
> extension to the trailing edge, but I imagine that may not be enough for
> a wing leveler?
>
> Finn
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> > Yes, Listening Finn.
> >
> >Since I do not intend to control roll with an aileron trim tab, flutter
is
> >not one of my concerns. I intend to use an 1/3 RC servo to push a rod
which
> >in turn pushes a tab on the aileron bell crank - so no additional mass
out
> >on the control surface. So perhaps other problems, but don't expect
flutter
> >to be one of them.
> >
> >Great seeing you again at the Flyin and Tracy's Finn.
> >
> >Hope you get back from your trip to make it to Sun & Fun.
> >
> >Made it back to Charlotte from Tracy's in 2 hours 45 minutes, so even had
a
> >small tail wind component to help this day.
> >
> >Ed
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
I must have missed Bob's hints . . . did they come through the list?
Please point me in the proper direction.
Thanks,
Bob - to be: RV-8 N678RC
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 12:53:47 +0100, Mickey Coggins
<mick-matronics@rv8.ch> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Thanks for the hints. A couple of hours of filing and they
> fit together fine. There is a bit of a gap between the
> forward part and the aft, and I've put a couple of strips
> of fiberglass on the forward half to help it fit better.
> It will probably need a couple more hours of sanding.
>
> I also ordered the Sam James DVD on how to do this stuff.
> I found the Ordorff cassettes helpful as well.
>
> Best regards,
> Mickey
>
> Oldsfolks@aol.com wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> >
> > Mickey;
> > I used a file to get a better fit between the two halves of the wheel
> > pants. A square or flat file will do.
> > I also used Poly-Fibre "Smooth Prime" to prime them . It goes on with a
> > small roller and you can push down to squish it into the pinholes in that
#$%
> > &*
> > fibre glas. A/C S has it in the glas & resins section of their catalog.
> > Mix small amounts since it goes a long way. It washes up with water and
sands
> > into lots of snow on the floor. A couple of coats usually takes care of
> > the pinholes.
> >
> > Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> > A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> > Charleston,Arkansas
> > Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
> >
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Laseter" <mlaseter@comcast.net>
I use Mequiars Cleaner Wax. Only thing I have used for the last 10 years
now.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: Got Wax?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
After 4 years, I think the paint on my airplane has finally cured well
enough that it may be time for a wax job. Anyone got a recommendation for
the perfect wax? Inexpensive, easy to apply, and leaves a nice finish?
I'm hoping someone can recommend a good liquid wax. I simply don't have the
time or energy right now to use one of the paste waxes...
Thanks in advance,
KB
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
But that is a trim tab. Surely that will be too small for a wing leveller?
Finn
Ed Anderson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>Finn,
>
>I believe that Van sells an electric aileron trim kit - undoubtedly the size
>tab it calls for would be a starting point. Someone on the list may have
>the diagram which shows the cut-out size.
>
>Ed
>
>
Message 8
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|
Pilots
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net> Pilots
Off the top of my head I would think the major disadvantage of a stepper
motor would be weight. Or if it is geared, I'm fairly sure that it will
offer some resistance even when not powered. That the driving
electronics is 4 or 6 or 8 or ? times more complex compared to just
driving a plain DC motor, may or may not be considered a disadvantage.
The more coils the higher the torque and the more drivers needed.
Finn
Ed Anderson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>Hi Doug,
>
>I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
>understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
>makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
>offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a stepper
>motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on the
>command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
>
>Ed Anderson
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>>
>>Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
>>
>>
>benefit.
>
>
>>I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
>>
>>The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
>>
>>
>building a clutched servo. A
>
>
>>stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I have
>>
>>
>done this myself for a
>
>
>>job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't get
>>
>>
>to the bottom of that at
>
>
>>the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
>>
>>Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead printer.
>>
>>Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
>>
>>
>little more information.
>
>
>>Doug Gray
>>'6 Fuse, now off the jig.
>>
>>
>>Ed Anderson wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>>
>>>Hi Bill,
>>>
>>>Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
>>>
>>>
>always.
>
>
>>>Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
>>>
>>>
>will
>
>
>>>provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with clock
>>>frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
>>>
>>>Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater than
>>>
>>>
>that
>
>
>>>shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there. However,
>>>
>>>
>I
>
>
>>>have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
>>>
>>>
>indicate
>
>
>>>is desirable.
>>>
>>>My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the servo
>>>
>>>
>push
>
>
>>>a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell crank.
>>>
>>>
>The
>
>
>>>rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually similar to
>>>Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A). However,
>>>
>>>
>there
>
>
>>>are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would work,
>>>
>>>
>but
>
>
>>>might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch might
>>>
>>>
>be
>
>
>>>a more elegant way to go.
>>>
>>>Thanks for the suggestions
>>>
>>>Ed
>>>
>>>Ed Anderson
>>>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>>Matthews, NC
>>>eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>>>>
>>>>At 08:36 PM 3/10/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
>>>>>
>>>>>
><eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>
>>>>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing leveler.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>I
>
>
>>>>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>(PSPICE)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>approach
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers more
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>move
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a bit
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>much.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited growth
>>>>>capability.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any other
>>>>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system and
>>>>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will start
>>>>>
>>>>>
>out
>
>
>>>as
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
>>>>>
>>>>>
>that
>
>
>>>a
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best bet
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>(and
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two control
>>>>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to your
>>>>>
>>>>>
>set
>
>
>>>>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement this
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>would
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be compared
>>>>>
>>>>>
>to
>
>
>>>>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
>>>>>
>>>>>
>generate
>
>
>>>a
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to the
>>>>
>>>>
>>>inner
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
>>>>
>>>>
>heading
>
>
>>>>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> A small difference
>>>>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>faster
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
>>>>>
>>>>>
>quite
>
>
>>>a
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the general
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>idea.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
>>>>>
>>>>>
>model
>
>
>>>>>aircraft servo.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
>>>>
>>>>
>>>clutch
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Ed is correct in that there is an offering from Van's. It calls for **NO**
additional tab.
The kit became available some time around the advent of the RV7 or RV9.
As it turns out, I had designed a center console/throttle quadrant for the
RV6A I am building. As a result I had to have electric aileron trim. So I
came up with a design for that.
When I was about to start trying to build it, I discovered the offering from
Van's which was VERY similar to what I had planned to do. The design uses an
Allen trim servo to bias the standard trim bias springs that are installed
for manual trim. It moves the trim "lever" (which gets put UNDER the floor
pan) for you. I ordered the kit and made some mods to it so it would work in
my RV6A. I am not flying yet, but this seems to be the best way (effective
and cost effective) to accomplish electric trim.
James
{SNIP}
| --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
|
| Finn,
|
| I believe that Van sells an electric aileron trim kit - undoubtedly the
| size
| tab it calls for would be a starting point. Someone on the list may have
| the diagram which shows the cut-out size.
|
| Ed
|
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Re: Starter Switch Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
Hi Cy,
Did you try turning completely to the right and then push in?
No, but I will try this.
The wiring diagram is in the Aircraft Spruce Catalog.
Got it and it confirms I wired it correct minus the ground to #5
If you go to the starter solenoid. Does the starter engage if you apply
power to the starter terminal. If it has two small terminals, sometimes the
2nd one has to grounded.
I did apply power and the starter did bump. However my start solenoid has
two primary terminals - one for power and one for ground. Another lister
suggested it *might* need ground to operate. I can wire it either way. It
is currently wired for power to activate. But no power off switch, at least
not right now.
Thanks for your input
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Return springs on throttle and mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leland <federigo@pacbell.net>
My Technical Counselor requested that I put return springs on the
carburetor-throttle and mixture-control arms of my Lycoming O320. Does
anybody on this list have pictures of such an installation that they
could send me?
Leland
RV9A, Pitot/Static testing this morning
Message 12
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Plecenik" <nanchang@zipnet.us>
Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA members.
I just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | More On lost power on takeopff |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Thanks everyone for the responses. I am subsc to digest only to keep box from overflowing
so get each morn. my 6a has run Mogas since built, and have gotten
direct responses from Mogas burners that it is vaporlock problem, along with tips
on how to avoid it. My gas lines are insulated, but I think some way of diverting
some air to the fuel pump and carb would be a good idea. any sugestions?
charlie
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Discount |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I was misquoted/misconstrued/missomethinged. What I said was get the AOPA 5% discount
by ordering from ACS...
Folks aren't taking advantage of AOPA's rebate program? Shame one you ;-) I'm
going to tell your wive's/husband/'s... :-)
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Plecenik"
>
> Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA members.
I
> just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
>
>
>
>
>
>
I was misquoted/misconstrued/missomethinged. What I said was get the AOPA 5% discount
by ordering from ACS...
Folks aren't taking advantage of AOPA's rebate program? Shame one you ;-) I'm going
to tell your wive's/husband/'s... :-)
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Mike Plecenik" <NANCHANG@ZIPNET.US>
Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA members.
I
just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
_- List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Discount |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Okay, Lucky: don't tell my wife/accountant, but tell me more, please. I've never
known about this rebate.
-Stormy
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Discount |
--> RV-List message posted by: <maurv8@bresnan.net>
You have to use the AOPA visa card to get the discount.
Mauri Morin
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Plecenik" <nanchang@zipnet.us>
Subject: RV-List: ACS Discount
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Plecenik" <nanchang@zipnet.us>
>
> Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA
> members. I just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer
> discounts.
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | White Letters for Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I made some labels for my panel with a P-Touch. They are beginning to fade. The
lamination can
wear off over time. This happened in about a year on my cell phone.
--- SportAV8R@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> The Brother P-Touch machine I have uses laminated tapes; I doubt they'd ever
wear off.
>
> -Stormy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Discount |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Lucky,
That was as clear as mud. Please expand on your answer.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
>I was misquoted/misconstrued/missomethinged. What I said was get the AOPA
>5% discount by ordering from ACS...
>
>Folks aren't taking advantage of AOPA's rebate program? Shame one
>you ;-) I'm going to tell your wive's/husband/'s... :-)
>
>Lucky
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Plecenik"
> >
> > Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA
> members. I
> > just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>I was misquoted/misconstrued/missomethinged. What I said was get the AOPA
>5% discount by ordering from ACS...
>
>Folks aren't taking advantage of AOPA's rebate program? Shame one you ;-)
>I'm going to tell your wive's/husband/'s... :-)
>
>Lucky
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: "Mike Plecenik" <NANCHANG@ZIPNET.US>
>
> Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA
> members. I
> just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
>
>
> _- List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Finn, I guess I mis-understood, I thought you were considering the use of a
movable trim tab to do the control job which of course permit use of a much
smaller motor than pushing/pulling the aileron bell crank.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cheap Navaid servo for sale?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>
> But that is a trim tab. Surely that will be too small for a wing leveller?
>
> Finn
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> >Finn,
> >
> >I believe that Van sells an electric aileron trim kit - undoubtedly the
size
> >tab it calls for would be a starting point. Someone on the list may have
> >the diagram which shows the cut-out size.
> >
> >Ed
> >
> >
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Discount |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/2005/050131rebate.html
hopefully this is enough to get you going in the right direction. ACS is on the
list of places that the 5% rebate is offered. Order from ACS using the aopa
credit card and you get 5% back. Too bad Van's isn't on the list....
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Okay, Lucky: don't tell my wife/accountant, but tell me more, please. I've
> never known about this rebate.
>
> -Stormy
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/2005/050131rebate.html
hopefully this is enough to get you going in the right direction. ACS is on the
list of places that the 5% rebate is offered. Order from ACS using the aopa credit
card and you get 5% back. Too bad Van's isn't on the list....
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Okay, Lucky: don't tell my wife/accountant, but tell me more, please. I've
never known about this rebate.
-Stormy
Q/RV-List.htm
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: White Letters for Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
>I made some labels for my panel with a P-Touch. They are beginning to fade.
The lamination can
>wear off over time. This happened in about a year on my cell phone.
>
>--- SportAV8R@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>>
>>The Brother P-Touch machine I have uses laminated tapes; I doubt they'd ever
wear off.
>>
>>-Stormy
>>
>>
>>
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
They are probably not wearing off, it is probably sunlight that is
causing the fade. There is a outer tape covering the lettering. This
tape is pretty tough stuff. Mine are black and are not fading yet.
But I will keep close watch on it. Then there is a guy up in New
England who does lettering on the back side, in reverse and it is really
cool stuff. I think he wanted about $60 to do mine with about as much
letering as you could cram into a 14" by 3" switch and breaker panel.
This is what I want to ultimately go with after I get all changes made.
Phil in Illinois...
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Van's Belt Buckles |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
A few notes from some customers. Check them out at: http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
I couldn't be happier - how about doing an RV-9A buckle. I'll be your first customer!!
Thanks, Andy
Glenn, My RV Buckle just arrived......It's perfect! The pictures don't do it justice
as the finish has just the right amount of shine.
Thanks, Tom
Looks great, will be showing it off at a fly-in
lunch tomorrow. thx, Bill
Hello Glenn! I've received the buckle-- GREAT JOB!! It looks great!! I love
it!! Thanks!!! Danny RV9A
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Return springs on throttle and mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I just drilled a small hole in the top of fab and hooked a spring into it.
The other end went around my mixture arm. I think that would qualify. Same
goes for throttle but I didnt put one there. Not really sure why you would
want one on your throttle.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland" <federigo@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Return springs on throttle and mixture
> --> RV-List message posted by: Leland <federigo@pacbell.net>
>
> My Technical Counselor requested that I put return springs on the
> carburetor-throttle and mixture-control arms of my Lycoming O320. Does
> anybody on this list have pictures of such an installation that they
> could send me?
> Leland
> RV9A, Pitot/Static testing this morning
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lost power on takeoff again |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/13/05 4:46:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mmckenna@bellsouth.net writes:
<< Charlie,
Check your primer system. If you have not already ruled this out. Leaking
primer pump or valve can cause the richer than normal condition.
Mike Mckenna
>>
Charlie: Mike has a good thought here. FWIW, a local RV-6A guy using
one of the electric primer valves from Aircraft Spruce recently discovered
that the valve was jammed open. Nothing he could do would get it to close.
Worth checking if you are using a similar set up (which I am BTW and have no
problems so far in only 45 hours).
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 25
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Zeidman, Richard B" <richard.b.zeidman@boeing.com>
Listers,
Due to heat lamp damage, my slider portion of my canopy has a distortion
on the passenger side. I was hopeing someone bought a canopy to replace
the windsheild portion because of a bird strike and did not use the
slider portion and would be interested in selling it. My canopy was
recieved from Vans in 1999. I understand different vintage canopies are
different configurations.
Thanks for any help or ideas.
Rich Zeidman
RV6A N42RZ
745 hours
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
No misunderstanding. However, in my mind a 4" x 3/4" (estimate) tab
isn't going to cut it for a wing leveler.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't a wing leveler have to be
able to command a much bigger change than a trim function does? For
example if a wing drops suddenly because of turbulence.
Also consider that it would be nice if it would work in slow flight.
Finn
Ed Anderson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>Finn, I guess I mis-understood, I thought you were considering the use of a
>movable trim tab to do the control job which of course permit use of a much
>smaller motor than pushing/pulling the aileron bell crank.
>
>Ed
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Finn Lassen" <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>To: "ax; PROMO" <rv-list@matronics.com.Gecko/20030624.Netscape/7.1>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cheap Navaid servo for sale?
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>>
>>But that is a trim tab. Surely that will be too small for a wing leveller?
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>Ed Anderson wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>>
>>>Finn,
>>>
>>>I believe that Van sells an electric aileron trim kit - undoubtedly the
>>>
>>>
>size
>
>
>>>tab it calls for would be a starting point. Someone on the list may have
>>>the diagram which shows the cut-out size.
>>>
>>>Ed
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Return springs on throttle and mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Leland wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Leland <federigo@pacbell.net>
>
> My Technical Counselor requested that I put return springs on the
> carburetor-throttle and mixture-control arms of my Lycoming O320. Does
> anybody on this list have pictures of such an installation that they
> could send me?
> Leland
> RV9A, Pitot/Static testing this morning
Here is a link with a photo of a return spring on the mixture arm
(scroll about 1/3 down the page):
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/engine4.html
If memory serves me, there is already a spring on the throttle that
pulls it open. The spring may be weak if the carb has a bunch of hours
on it.
Sam Buchanan
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: RV List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines |
0.00 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.00 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: sturdy@att.net
I built my own engine. I built a basic O-360 parallel valve with aft prop govenor.
I then put on it a IO-360-A1A 200hp oil sump, and on it put the forward
facing (horizontal) Bendix fuel servo, and then converted the engine to fuel injection
with Bendix flow divider and Airflow Performance spider lines and injectors
(Airflow Performance overhauled both the fuel servo and flow divider and
flow checked the system). I have 720 hrs of trouble free flying with it. Lycoming
then can out with their IO-360-M1B which is basically the same engine.
So, if you find a good O-360, you can convert it to the IO-360-M1AorB, and get
the advantages of cold air, tuned induction and use the snorkle with slick
cowl without the extra 30lbs of weight of the IO-360-A1A.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8, Flying
Time: 10:48:59 AM PST US
From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Thanks for the info it all helps alot.
Ok so to keep the headaches down to a minimum I should really be looking for
the M1B. I think this is a fairly new engine though and I suspect there
won't be many out there on the used market.
Larry you made some very good points about whether I want and need an
inverted system. Now that it has been pointed out that I can do all I want
to do with a standard no inverted system I'll probably drop the inverted
bit.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
I built my own engine. I built a basic O-360 parallel valve with aft prop govenor.
I then put on it a IO-360-A1A 200hp oil sump, and on it put the forward facing
(horizontal) Bendix fuel servo, and then converted the engine to fuel injection
with Bendix flow divider and Airflow Performance spider lines and injectors
(Airflow Performance overhauled both the fuel servo and flow divider and
flow checked the system). I have 720 hrs of trouble free flying with it. Lycoming
then can out with their IO-360-M1B whichis basically the same engine. So,
if you find a good O-360, you can convert it to the IO-360-M1AorB, and get the
advantages of cold air, tuned induction and use the snorkle with slick cowl without
the extra 30lbs of weight of the IO-360-A1A.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8, Flying
Time: 10:48:59 AM PST US
From: "Kevin Williams" kevinsky18@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
-- RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" kevinsky18@hotmail.com
Thanks for the info it all helps alot.
Ok so to keep the headaches down to a minimum I should really be looking for
the M1B. I think this is a fairly new engine though and I suspect there
won't be many out there on the used market.
Larry you made some very good points about whether I
want and need an
inverted system. Now that it has been pointed out that I can do all I want
to do with a standard no inverted system I'll probably drop the inverted
bit.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 29
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| Subject: | Displaying Airworthiness Cert. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy!
Working on the interior of my -6A and need to find a permanent resting place
for the pink slip, so I'm looking for some ideas how to handle this so it
looks nice, is relatively out of the way, but still meets FAR 91.203:"...displayed
at the cabin or cockpit entrance so that it is legible to passengers or
crew." Apparently the registration and operating limitations (all 5 pages),
Program Letter, Phase 1 test area description (copy of sectional) and W&B must
be
aboard, but not in view, but the whole package is stapled to the pink slip,
which has a note on the bottom "SEE ATTACHED OPERATING LIMITATIONS". So I'm
guessing I can't separate the other stuff from the pink slip and have to figure
out
some way to stuff everything into some kind of nice display case for
attachment in the cockpit somewhere. Could some of y'all let me know how you did
it
(off-list or links to fotos would be great!)
Also, CAN the op-lims & other stuff be separated from the pink slip so it can
be "framed" and displayed by itself? The op-lims, W&B & other stuff could go
in a zip-lock along with the POH (oops- Airplane Flight Manual!) and stuck in
the glove locker?
Thanks!
Mark Phillips N51PW, 155 hours
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Return springs on throttle and mixture |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Leland wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Leland <federigo@pacbell.net>
>
>My Technical Counselor requested that I put return springs on the
>carburetor-throttle and mixture-control arms of my Lycoming O320. Does
>anybody on this list have pictures of such an installation that they
>could send me?
>Leland
>RV9A, Pitot/Static testing this morning
>
No pictures, but instead of a 'return' spring, I'd let the spring take
it to full throttle. See
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id=20050310X00289&key=1
for one pilot's encounter with no throttle control. What he could have
done on the first try was shut the mags off/on to control his engine
speed ..... or even used the mixture. MHO only. We never know how
we're going to react to an anomoly until it happens, so commenting from
the safety of my computer chair in no way casts aspersions on the pilot!!!
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>
>
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Displaying Airworthiness Cert. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I just used one of those automobile registration holders. I glued it to the side
of the cockpit
in my RV-4. I stuck all the other paperwork in behind it so the Airworthiness
Cert is all you
see. The RV-6 guys on the field seem to put just above their baggage compartment.
--- Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> Howdy!
>
> Working on the interior of my -6A and need to find a permanent resting place
> for the pink slip, so I'm looking for some ideas how to handle this so it
> looks nice, is relatively out of the way, but still meets FAR 91.203:"...displayed
> at the cabin or cockpit entrance so that it is legible to passengers or
> crew." Apparently the registration and operating limitations (all 5 pages),
> Program Letter, Phase 1 test area description (copy of sectional) and W&B must
be
> aboard, but not in view, but the whole package is stapled to the pink slip,
> which has a note on the bottom "SEE ATTACHED OPERATING LIMITATIONS". So I'm
> guessing I can't separate the other stuff from the pink slip and have to figure
out
> some way to stuff everything into some kind of nice display case for
> attachment in the cockpit somewhere. Could some of y'all let me know how you
did it
> (off-list or links to fotos would be great!)
>
> Also, CAN the op-lims & other stuff be separated from the pink slip so it can
> be "framed" and displayed by itself? The op-lims, W&B & other stuff could go
> in a zip-lock along with the POH (oops- Airplane Flight Manual!) and stuck in
> the glove locker?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark Phillips N51PW, 155 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 32
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| Subject: | Lost power on takeoff again |
0.50 MIME_BASE64_LATIN RAW: Latin alphabet text using base64 encoding
1.01 MIME_BASE64_TEXT RAW: Message text disguised using base64 encoding
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Charles,
This sounds like a the problem I've been having recently. I'm running two
electronic ignitions
with automotive spark plugs (Autolite 386 plugs). On full power take off
climbs, I'd loose power
to the point the engine wouldn't keep the aircraft in the air. After several
instances, trying all
the emergency procedures (fuel pump ON, primer, switch tanks, full mixture)
I found that I
could always restore power by pulling the mixture to engine cut-off,
counting to three, and
then full mixture again.
It turns out that the automotive spark plugs (even new ones) were getting
so hot that it
melted the porcelain. I suspect that it then acted like a glow plug,
igniting the raw fuel on
the intake stroke for that cylinder, and back firing into the intake
manifold, causing ALL
cylinders to be effected. Shutting off the fuel put out the glow plug.
I've recently installed Autolite REM43BY plugs and not had another
instance of the
problem in the last 15 Hrs of flight. Also, EGT & CHT temps have changed
dramatically
in all phases of flight. I'm now trying to data log those differences......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
371 Hrs
Time:
01:25:36 PM PST US
From: "Charles Heathco" < cheathco@comcast.net
<mailto:cheathco@comcast.net> >
Subject: Lost power on takeoff again
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <
cheathco@comcast.net <mailto:cheathco@comcast.net> >
I replaced the carb with OH unit, and this morn had the same failure,
lost power
4-5 sec into takeoff run. pulled the mixture control to about where it
is at
cruise and it started running again. I ran up and did mag checks
couple times
with mix at norm and it was ok. I had made two flights after carb
change before
this with no problem. One common thing between this and when it
happened before
I swapped carb, is it was much warmer than usual both times, and it
was following
a long taxie both times as well. Any Ideas? (cut short a very nice
morn
for flying) charlie heathco
Message 33
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| Subject: | competition for Airnav? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
http://www.xcpilot.com/airport/
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>
>No misunderstanding. However, in my mind a 4" x 3/4" (estimate) tab
>isn't going to cut it for a wing leveler.
>Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't a wing leveler have to be
>able to command a much bigger change than a trim function does? For
>example if a wing drops suddenly because of turbulence.
>Also consider that it would be nice if it would work in slow flight.
>
>Finn
>
snipped
The tab I had on the Thorp was very small, probably 1" x 4" - 5". It was
attached with nylon r/c plane hinges to the trailing edge of the aileron
(not cut into the aileron) & the servo was imbedded in the aileron. It
was pretty much an r/c plane aileron & servo grafted into the T-18
aileron. If I had done it myself I might have used regular piano hinge &
just increased the chord a bit with another sheet of AL but the mass of
the tab would go up quickly doing that.
Control authority: Consider the ratio of aileron area to wing area & run
the ratio numbers for tab to aileron or the elevator tab to total
elevator area. Remember, all the tab has to move is the aileron; the
aileron will move the wing.
You could fly my Thorp with the little 'volume control' on the panel.
The same tab served as roll trim & autopilot control servo tab (both
functions in one electronics box). Remember, all the tab has to move is
the aileron; the aileron will move the wing.
The potential downside to the r/c servo (probably applies to Van's
elevator trim motor too unless the geartrain is a worm drive) is that
without power it is free to move on its own. My concern would only kick
in if the tab had enough mass to damage the aileron in a no-power,
flapping in the breeze situation.
Charlie
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
probably applies to Van's
elevator trim motor too unless the geartrain is a worm drive
Yep, the Menzheimer/Allen trim servos are worm drive. Nothing flaps around in
there.
-Stormy
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Van's seat patterns |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Does anyone have any experience with buying the Van's
seat foams and patterns, and making their own seats?
Are the patterns *really* that good? They want about
40 bucks for them by themselves.
I've never sewn, but I have ironed a patch on my jeans,
so I guess I'm qualified. :-)
I've seen several companies on the web that make nice
seats, I just want to see if I can do it myself.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 37
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<rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Need known good mag |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I have deceided to go with one mag and one electronic for now on my RV6a, and both
my mags are old and fear they are near end of service. I wonder if anyone
might have a known good mag laying around from an elec conversion they want o
sell. I now have bendix, could convert if have the wiring. my engine is O-320E2A
Charlie heathco, reply to mail
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system 6 strobe
unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav lights, and just
installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations for night flight are somewhat
specific in the visibility of the strobes, and I had a few questions:
* Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario (wingtips and tail), is it a problem
if the strobe head is on the forward facing portion of the sheared wingtip (nav
light would be on portion parallel to fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply,
what is the preferred output (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned"
similar setup care to comment on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed
to Whelan)? Thanks,Scott7A
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Wheel pants fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I would like to get the wheel pants fairings that Bob S has, but I have no experience
with fiberglass and they have to be put on each 1/2 of the pants. I am
reasonably skilled if I know what I am doing. Anybody done this on their plane?
mine is 6A. charlie heathco
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert Cutter" <rcutter@cupower.com>
Funny you should ask! Just last week I was wondering the same thing and
other thoughts. I emailed Jeff Argersinger, Sales and Marketing Manager for
Whelen Aviaition Dept. Rather than emailing back a lot of info, he CALLED
ME! We had a long discussion of FAA regs and the products that Whelen
offers. It is my understanding that there are some people that use strobes
mounted on experimental aircraft that DO NOT meet the FARs. Knowing that I
am adding strobes to my RV4 to be seen and not JUST BE LEGAL, I have opted
to do additional work to make that happen. FYI, I had bought a partially
built -4 and having to undo work that had been completed to add strobes for
my satisfaction. It would have been much easier and lots cheaper to go
another route, but for me (and I am THRIFTY), choose to go the full route.
Now, all that being said, if I needed to buy everything from scratch, I
would probably get the NOVA AVI-PAK. $ for $ I think it is a better deal.
I do appreciate all the info Jeff gave me and he is a wonderful guy to talk
with. I was reading info from their website and he told me he wrote it! I
knew I had gotten the right guy. Try contacting Jeff and I am sure he will
give you lots of good info.
Robert Cutter
RVRC
finishing wings and some fuselage done
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Strobe Lighting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system 6
> strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav lights,
> and just installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations for night
> flight are somewhat specific in the visibility of the strobes, and I had a
> few questions: * Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario (wingtips and
> tail), is it a problem if the strobe head is on the forward facing portion
> of the sheared wingtip (nav light would be on portion parallel to
> fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply, what is the preferred output
> (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned" similar setup care to comment
> on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed to Whelan)?
> Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
I'm looking at possibly getting some serious builder assistance from a
fellow in the USA. I would be present and doing 90% of work.
Anyone know how this will affect my ability to complete the kit in Canada
considering that most of the airframe will have been inspected by US
inspectors. I honestly don't know how much I would get done down south but
I'm thinking between 75 - 95% again I would be present and hands on for the
entire building process.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@alltel.net>
Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every time I try
to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up when I try
to access the link to their email.
Ron Schreck
Message 43
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
Hi Ed,
I enjoyed talking with you at Leeward's, I told you I was an Electronics Tech.
I am no expert but I have had some experience with stepper motors and servos.
I think you would find stepper motors and there drives to cause a lot of RF noise.
They move one step (say 2 deg/step) when commanded to. So command 100 steps
- move 200 deg rotation. Change rotation direction at will with command. The
higher their torque is, the harder it would be to overcome their commanded
position. So to override the stepper motor with manual control stick input could
be an undesirably high control stick force. The stepper motor itself does not
provide feedback. There are multiple ways to keep track of the position the
motor has moved it's load. Stepper circuits normally have a "Home" position switch
(such as neutral aileron stick position) then the controller or software
keeps track of the precision steps in both directions from "Home". With this
arrangement, if torque of stepper motor is exceeded,
the motor will stall or slip X number of uncommanded steps which would cause a
loss of position tracking. With an additional feedback circuit design (such as
a potentiometer or rheostat) you could keep track of the aileron deflection
degrees RT or LT slewing the stepper to the desired position (Move clockwise until
Aileron LT equals 5 degrees).
I believe the servo with clutch approach would be more simple, lighter, and less
prone to produce elec. noise.
Have fun,
Mike Mckenna
>
> From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> Date: 2005/03/14 Mon AM 07:37:55 EST
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Hi Doug,
>
> I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
> understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
> makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
> offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a stepper
> motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on the
> command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
>
> Ed Anderson
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> >
> > Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
> benefit.
> >
> > I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
> >
> > The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
> building a clutched servo. A
> > stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I have
> done this myself for a
> > job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't get
> to the bottom of that at
> > the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
> >
> > Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead printer.
> >
> > Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
> little more information.
> >
> > Doug Gray
> > '6 Fuse, now off the jig.
> >
> >
> > Ed Anderson wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> > >
> > > Hi Bill,
> > >
> > > Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
> always.
> > >
> > > Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
> will
> > > provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with clock
> > > frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
> > >
> > > Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater than
> that
> > > shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there. However,
> I
> > > have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
> indicate
> > > is desirable.
> > >
> > > My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the servo
> push
> > > a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell crank.
> The
> > > rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually similar to
> > > Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A). However,
> there
> > > are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would work,
> but
> > > might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch might
> be
> > > a more elegant way to go.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the suggestions
> > >
> > > Ed
> > >
> > > Ed Anderson
> > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > > Matthews, NC
> > > eanderson@carolina.rr.com
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> > >>
> > >>At 08:36 PM 3/10/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> > >>
> > >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
> <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> > >>>
> > >>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing leveler.
> I
> > >>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
> > >>
> > > (PSPICE)
> > >
> > >>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
> > >>
> > > approach
> > >
> > >>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers more
> > >>
> > > move
> > >
> > >>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a bit
> > >>
> > > much.
> > >
> > >>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited growth
> > >>>capability.
> > >>
> > >> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any other
> > >>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system and
> > >>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will start
> out
> > >>
> > > as
> > >
> > >>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
> that
> > >>
> > > a
> > >
> > >>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best bet
> > >>
> > > (and
> > >
> > >>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two control
> > >>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to your
> set
> > >>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement this
> > >>
> > > would
> > >
> > >>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be compared
> to
> > >>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
> generate
> > >>
> > > a
> > >
> > >>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
> > >>
> > >> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to the
> > >
> > > inner
> > >
> > >>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
> heading
> > >>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> A small difference
> > >>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference a
> > >>
> > > faster
> > >
> > >>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
> quite
> > >>
> > > a
> > >
> > >>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the general
> > >>
> > > idea.
> > >
> > >>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
> model
> > >>>aircraft servo.
> > >>
> > >> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
> > >
> > > clutch
> > >
> > >>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 05:35 PM 3/14/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system
> 6 strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav
> lights, and just installing nova-type strobes.
You might want to check out Bill VonDanes' lighting packages at:
http://www.creativair.com/cva/
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Ron
I have had this problem a few times, their fix is below.
Search your hard drive for the following files:
data*.xml
panel*.xml
The files may look like "data28.xml" (or some other number) and
"panel[1].xml" (or some other number).
You will probably find them in a folder called: "UserData" located in your
temporary internet files area.
Once you have located these flies DELETE THEM... This should take care of
your lockup problem,
but it will also delete the last panel you built that is currently being
saved...
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: epanelbuilder
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@alltel.net>
>
> Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every
> time I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up
> when I try to access the link to their email.
>
> Ron Schreck
>
>
>
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in |
USA
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> USA
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
>I'm looking at possibly getting some serious builder assistance from a
>fellow in the USA. I would be present and doing 90% of work.
>
>Anyone know how this will affect my ability to complete the kit in Canada
>considering that most of the airframe will have been inspected by US
>inspectors. I honestly don't know how much I would get done down south but
>I'm thinking between 75 - 95% again I would be present and hands on for the
>entire building process.
>
The fact that you used builder assistance won't be a problem, as that
is now specifcally allowed in Canada. But I am almost certain that
you will need to have the inspections done by either Transport
Canada, or the MDRA inspectors.
The MDRA has been delegated to do inspections in Canada, so I
recommend that you contact them to discuss this:
http://www.md-ra.com/
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | RVers near Alice Springs, Australia? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
Listers,
I'll be in Alice Springs, Australia during March 6-22. Any RVers in the
area care to get together?
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 740 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Charles Heathco wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
>I would like to get the wheel pants fairings that Bob S has, but I have no experience
with fiberglass and they have to be put on each 1/2 of the pants. I am
reasonably skilled if I know what I am doing. Anybody done this on their plane?
mine is 6A. charlie heathco
>
>Also contact Ed Reicher and consider his upper and lower fairings aerosu@msn.com <mailto:aerosu@msn.com>
>
They are about $215 postage paid and they look very good. I bought the
new ones from Van's because they were less expensive. But they are also
very smooth on the inside and pretty rough on the outside which is
requiring a lot of smoothing to get them ready for paint.. Seems like
someone should have the smooth surface on the outside. Phil RV6
flying a little bit
>
>
> aerosu@msn.com <mailto:aerosu@msn.com>
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Re: RVers near Alice Springs, Australia? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Tim Lewis wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
>
>Listers,
>
>I'll be in Alice Springs, Australia during March 6-22. Any RVers in the
>area care to get together?
>
>Tim Lewis
>
>
you lucky devil
Phil in Illinois
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
ronschreck@alltel.net writes:
Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every time
I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up when I
try to access the link to their email.
I have the same problem.
d. preston
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's seat patterns |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" <av8er2@mcleodusa.net>
Mickey; I purchased van's foam and took them to a local upholtstry shop that
has been doing aircraft seats. He told the foam looked really good, said he
can't buy it for the 180. He said to take the pattern home he would do his
own thing. We'll soon what they turned out like? Mark
N137MR just finished wiring.
Message 52
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I have the Grand rapids Engine monitor, I was doing some preliminary
taxin, and on run-up, when checking the Mags.. the monitor show 0 as rpms..
on either mag... \\forthose familiar with this unit, there is a switch one
must install, between the 2 mags. you start engine with either...
Any suggestions on this ?
By the way, on the first couple or taxi runs, it worked fine...
showing some drop for each mag...
Thanks \
Bert
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Scott,
For a 3 strobe system, the Nova 90 watt unit is the one that is the equal
of the Whelen system (as regards power). This unit exceeds the light output
currently required by the FAA. You will need to install the Whelen strobe
lens and retainers over the strobe heads (aka bulbs). Vans has the best
price on the lens, go to ACS for the lens retainers. The lens are needed
with both the Whelen and Nova units. The FAA wants the majority of the
light to be biased in the horizontal plane. That is accomplished via the
lens. FYI Nova replacement bulbs are $24.95 each, versus $59.95 for the
Whelen replacements.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system
> 6 strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav
> lights, and just installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations
> for night flight are somewhat specific in the visibility of the strobes,
> and I had a few questions: * Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario
> (wingtips and tail), is it a problem if the strobe head is on the forward
> facing portion of the sheared wingtip (nav light would be on portion
> parallel to fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply, what is the
> preferred output (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned" similar setup
> care to comment on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed to
> Whelan)? Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: E.I.S MONITOR |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
For future reference, on yahoo there's a GRT_EFIS user's group which you can also
post any question you want about the EIS since most GRT EFIS users also use
the GRT EIS as part of the engine monitor function. The GRT engineers are also
group members and will answer questions when nobobdy else usually can.
If interested, go to www.groups.yahoo.com and join the GRT_EFIS group. I'm the moderator so if you have any problems just let me know.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
> I have the Grand rapids Engine monitor, I was doing some preliminary
> taxin, and on run-up, when checking the Mags.. the monitor show 0 as rpms..
>
> on either mag... \\forthose familiar with this unit, there is a switch one
> must install, between the 2 mags. you start engine with either...
>
> Any suggestions on this ?
>
> By the way, on the first couple or taxi runs, it worked fine...
> showing some drop for each mag...
>
>
> Thanks \
>
>
> Bert
>
>
>
>
>
>
For future reference, on yahoo there's a GRT_EFIS user's group which you can also
post any question you want about the EIS since most GRT EFIS users also use
the GRT EIS as part of the engine monitor function. The GRT engineers are also
group members and will answer questions when nobobdy else usually can.
If interested, go to www.groups.yahoo.com and join the GRT_EFIS group. I'm the moderator so if you have any problems just let me know.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I have the Grand rapids Engine monitor, I was doing some preliminary
taxin, and on run-up, when checking the Mags.. the monitor show 0 as rpms..
on either mag... \\forthose familiar with this unit, there is a switch one
must install, between the 2 mags. you start engine with either...
Any suggestions on this ?
By the way, on the first couple or taxi runs, it worked fine...
showing some drop for each mag...
Thanks \
Bert
entirely through the Contributions
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's seat patterns |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/upholstery.htm
may not be exactly what you are looking for but here's one man's ability to learn
to upholster A/C seats...
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose"
>
> Mickey; I purchased van's foam and took them to a local upholtstry shop that
> has been doing aircraft seats. He told the foam looked really good, said he
> can't buy it for the 180. He said to take the pattern home he would do his
> own thing. We'll soon what they turned out like? Mark
> N137MR just finished wiring.
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/upholstery.htm
may not be exactly what you are looking for but here's one man's ability to learn
to upholster A/C seats...
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" <AV8ER2@MCLEODUSA.NET>
Mickey; I purchased van's foam and took them to a local upholtstry shop that
has been doing aircraft seats. He told the foam looked really good, said he
can't buy it for the 180. He said to take the pattern home he would do his
own thing. We'll soon what they turned out like? Mark
N137MR just finished wiring.
===================
</BLO
CKQUOTE>
Message 56
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|
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
I did what Mr. Glasson suggested on an earlier post. Worked for me. The
only problem I have is printing it out. The panel itself prints but no
instruments or avioincs. Any suggestions??
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
RV-6 Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: <DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: epanelbuilder
> --> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> ronschreck@alltel.net writes:
>
> Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every
> time
> I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up
> when I
> try to access the link to their email.
>
>
> I have the same problem.
> d. preston
>
>
>
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Do a screenshot by pressing [Alt]-[PrintScreen]. Then paste it into
your favorite image manipulation program such as MSPAINT :-) and then
you can crop whatever you don't want out of the picture. At least,
that's the cheapskate's method.
Mark/Micki Phillips wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
>I did what Mr. Glasson suggested on an earlier post. Worked for me. The
>only problem I have is printing it out. The panel itself prints but no
>instruments or avioincs. Any suggestions??
>Mark Phillips
>Williamsville,Illinois
>RV-6 Finishing
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: epanelbuilder
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
>>ronschreck@alltel.net writes:
>>
>>Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every
>>time
>>I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up
>>when I
>>try to access the link to their email.
>>
>>
>>I have the same problem.
>>d. preston
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 58
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Hi Mike,
Yes, I recall our conversation. I appreciate your input as I only have a
conceptual understanding of a Stepper motor. My inclination is to go with
what I do understand and that is the Servo motor. The stepper sounds like
it would work but like most things just a different set of limitations and
challenges {:>). I had not considered that the stepper might produce more
EMF - certainly not desirable - I am certain it could be shielded but at
this moment not certain what the advantage of the stepper would be - unless
simply considerably cheaper than the aircraft servos. I had thought a
stepper might not have "resistance" to pilot inputs, but from what you
explained that does not look to necessarily be the case.
So much to learn - so little time {:>)
Thanks again
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
Pilots
> --> RV-List message posted by: <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
>
> Hi Ed,
>
> I enjoyed talking with you at Leeward's, I told you I was an Electronics
Tech. I am no expert but I have had some experience with stepper motors and
servos. I think you would find stepper motors and there drives to cause a
lot of RF noise. They move one step (say 2 deg/step) when commanded to. So
command 100 steps - move 200 deg rotation. Change rotation direction at will
with command. The higher their torque is, the harder it would be to overcome
their commanded position. So to override the stepper motor with manual
control stick input could be an undesirably high control stick force. The
stepper motor itself does not provide feedback. There are multiple ways to
keep track of the position the motor has moved it's load. Stepper circuits
normally have a "Home" position switch (such as neutral aileron stick
position) then the controller or software keeps track of the precision steps
in both directions from "Home". With this arrangement, if torque of stepper
motor is exceeded,
> the motor will stall or slip X number of uncommanded steps which would
cause a loss of position tracking. With an additional feedback circuit
design (such as a potentiometer or rheostat) you could keep track of the
aileron deflection degrees RT or LT slewing the stepper to the desired
position (Move clockwise until Aileron LT equals 5 degrees).
>
> I believe the servo with clutch approach would be more simple, lighter,
and less prone to produce elec. noise.
>
> Have fun,
> Mike Mckenna
>
>
> >
> > From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> > Date: 2005/03/14 Mon AM 07:37:55 EST
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
Pilots
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> > Hi Doug,
> >
> > I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
> > understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
> > makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
> > offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a
stepper
> > motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on
the
> > command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> > >
> > > Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
> > benefit.
> > >
> > > I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
> > >
> > > The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
> > building a clutched servo. A
> > > stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I
have
> > done this myself for a
> > > job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't
get
> > to the bottom of that at
> > > the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
> > >
> > > Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead
printer.
> > >
> > > Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
> > little more information.
> > >
> > > Doug Gray
> > > '6 Fuse, now off the jig.
> > >
> > >
> > > Ed Anderson wrote:
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
<eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> > > >
> > > > Hi Bill,
> > > >
> > > > Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
> > always.
> > > >
> > > > Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
> > will
> > > > provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with
clock
> > > > frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
> > > >
> > > > Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater
than
> > that
> > > > shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there.
However,
> > I
> > > > have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
> > indicate
> > > > is desirable.
> > > >
> > > > My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the
servo
> > push
> > > > a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell
crank.
> > The
> > > > rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually
similar to
> > > > Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A).
However,
> > there
> > > > are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would
work,
> > but
> > > > might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch
might
> > be
> > > > a more elegant way to go.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the suggestions
> > > >
> > > > Ed
> > > >
> > > > Ed Anderson
> > > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > > > Matthews, NC
> > > > eanderson@carolina.rr.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> > > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > > Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> > > >>
> > > >>At 08:36 PM 3/10/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
> > <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing
leveler.
> > I
> > > >>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
> > > >>
> > > > (PSPICE)
> > > >
> > > >>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
> > > >>
> > > > approach
> > > >
> > > >>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers
more
> > > >>
> > > > move
> > > >
> > > >>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a
bit
> > > >>
> > > > much.
> > > >
> > > >>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited
growth
> > > >>>capability.
> > > >>
> > > >> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any
other
> > > >>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system
and
> > > >>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will
start
> > out
> > > >>
> > > > as
> > > >
> > > >>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
> > that
> > > >>
> > > > a
> > > >
> > > >>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best
bet
> > > >>
> > > > (and
> > > >
> > > >>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two
control
> > > >>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to
your
> > set
> > > >>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement
this
> > > >>
> > > > would
> > > >
> > > >>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be
compared
> > to
> > > >>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
> > generate
> > > >>
> > > > a
> > > >
> > > >>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
> > > >>
> > > >> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to
the
> > > >
> > > > inner
> > > >
> > > >>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
> > heading
> > > >>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> A small difference
> > > >>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference
a
> > > >>
> > > > faster
> > > >
> > > >>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
> > quite
> > > >>
> > > > a
> > > >
> > > >>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the
general
> > > >>
> > > > idea.
> > > >
> > > >>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
> > model
> > > >>>aircraft servo.
> > > >>
> > > >> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
> > > >
> > > > clutch
> > > >
> > > >>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
>
>
Message 59
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| Subject: | Sanding out paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dave" <dford@michweb.net>
>Rich, That stuff is tuff as nails!! Very hard to sand and buff back up to
a nice finish. I would sand the orange peel and use Clear over the whole
aircraft at this point. Imron is available in clear.
-----
Am getting ready to paint and wondering if it would be more forgiving to use a
2 stage base/clear for sanding out any orange peel then applying clear to bring
out the shine without sacrificing the finish in single stage scenario.
Dave Ford
RV6
Message 60
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--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
When you create a panel using Epanel, the program stores a file on your hard
disk. Every so often, the keeper of the Epanel program updates the program
with more instruments, and the file stored on your hard disk becomes
incompatible with the latest Epanel program.
On the Epanel site there is a note on what to do if you have problems that
looks like this. It reads --
"This application works only with Internet Explorer version 5.0 and newer.
If you are experiencing lockup problems CLICK HERE" Follow the
instructions, delete the file on your hard drive and Epanel will stop
locking up (until the next time the program is updated)
The trick is finding out where that *.xml file is located. Once you find it
and delete it, the Epanel program will work great until the next update. Of
course you will have to rebuild your dream panel design all over again but
what the heck, that is half the fun.
JD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: epanelbuilder
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
ronschreck@alltel.net writes:
Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every time
I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up when
I
try to access the link to their email.
I have the same problem.
d. preston
Message 61
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--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
hey do any of you guys have a exhaust system laying around for a O-320
RV-4 that you would be interested in parting with? thanx
Weasel
smoothweasel@juno.com
662 574 5210
do not archive
Message 62
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| Subject: | teflon hose assembly problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I decided to try to make my own fuel and oil hoses. I tried to get the
high quality aluminum racing fittings (Earl's) but the factory can't
meet demand right now, so I ended up with mostly steel fittings from
Earl's for the -4 fittings and Russell for the -6 (both are AN). The
hose is Earl's "speed flex" steel braided teflon. These are 3 part
fittings with a 1) "nut" or socket, 2) a ferrule (sometimes called an
olive) and 3) the nipple.
The aluminum Earl's fittings, which I can only get a few of, are great.
They seem to assemble onto the hoses pretty easily. But the Russells
are giving me fits. Either I can't get the ferrule pushed over the
teflon hose without ruining it, or more commonly I can't get the
hose+ferrule pushed onto the nipple. In the latter case a ridge forms
in the soft teflon and it's nearly impossible to push the tube part of
the the nipple past it. My success rate seems to be about one good
fitting mounted in 3 or 4 attempts. Since you need 2 fittings on each
hose, I am batting zero so far for finished hoses.
I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
over the nipple???
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Message 63
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| Subject: | Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steven dinieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Also the faa inspectors won't get involved in any inspection except the
final. So incremental inspections would have to done via eaa tech
counselor or perhaps an AP mech. Which may not help meet the
requirements of Canadian inspection procedures. Fwiw, perhaps a dar
could help..
Steve d
N221rv, n223rv, n231rv(rv10)
>I'm looking at possibly getting some serious builder assistance from a
>fellow in the USA. I would be present and doing 90% of work.
>
>Anyone know how this will affect my ability to complete the kit in
Canada
>considering that most of the airframe will have been inspected by US
>inspectors. I honestly don't know how much I would get done down south
but
>I'm thinking between 75 - 95% again I would be present and hands on for
the
>entire building process.
>
The fact that you used builder assistance won't be a problem, as that
is now specifcally allowed in Canada. But I am almost certain that
you will need to have the inspections done by either Transport
Canada, or the MDRA inspectors.
The MDRA has been delegated to do inspections in Canada, so I
recommend that you contact them to discuss this:
Message 64
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I didn't know the strobes needed lenses over them. I was
just planning on popping the strobe head into the sheared
wingtip light area and be done with it. Is the one you
are talking about this one: Part Number = LN A612 LENS,CLEAR
and the ACS part: WHELEN LENS RETAINER A426 $28.300
Thanks,
Mickey
Charlie Kuss wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Scott,
> For a 3 strobe system, the Nova 90 watt unit is the one that is the equal
> of the Whelen system (as regards power). This unit exceeds the light output
> currently required by the FAA. You will need to install the Whelen strobe
> lens and retainers over the strobe heads (aka bulbs). Vans has the best
> price on the lens, go to ACS for the lens retainers. The lens are needed
> with both the Whelen and Nova units. The FAA wants the majority of the
> light to be biased in the horizontal plane. That is accomplished via the
> lens. FYI Nova replacement bulbs are $24.95 each, versus $59.95 for the
> Whelen replacements.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>>
>> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system
>>6 strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav
>>lights, and just installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations
>>for night flight are somewhat specific in the visibility of the strobes,
>>and I had a few questions: * Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario
>>(wingtips and tail), is it a problem if the strobe head is on the forward
>>facing portion of the sheared wingtip (nav light would be on portion
>>parallel to fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply, what is the
>>preferred output (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned" similar setup
>>care to comment on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed to
>>Whelan)? Thanks,Scott7A
>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
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