Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:09 AM - Re: Sanding out paint (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
2. 02:32 AM - Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: Auto (Doug Gray)
3. 04:17 AM - Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: Auto Pilots (Ed Anderson)
4. 04:20 AM - Re: teflon hose assembly problems (Ed Anderson)
5. 05:34 AM - Wheel pant fairing P.S. (Charles Heathco)
6. 05:41 AM - Re: epanelbuilder - Printing (Bob C.)
7. 07:25 AM - Re: epanelbuilder - Printing (Glaeser, Dennis A)
8. 07:33 AM - Re: teflon hose assembly problems (Sam Buchanan)
9. 07:41 AM - EKP-IV (Bill VonDane)
10. 07:51 AM - Tail Dragger Question... (Matt Johnson)
11. 08:01 AM - Dynon Report (Wheeler North)
12. 08:35 AM - Re: Re: epanelbuilder - Printing (Jamie Painter)
13. 02:17 PM - Re: More On lost power on takeopff (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
14. 02:30 PM - Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc. (Jim Duckett)
15. 02:34 PM - Re: teflon hose assembly problems (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
16. 02:45 PM - Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: Auto (Dave Bristol)
17. 02:56 PM - Re: Teflon hose assembly problems (Bob Hasson)
18. 04:13 PM - Re: RVers near Alice Springs, Australia? (Martin Hone)
19. 04:53 PM - Strange - coincidence? (John)
20. 05:14 PM - Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc. (Charlie England)
21. 05:31 PM - Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA (Kevin Williams)
22. 05:33 PM - Wheel Pants (Brian Alley)
23. 06:09 PM - Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in (Kevin Horton)
24. 06:13 PM - Grand Rapids EFIS (Lou Bello)
25. 06:19 PM - Garmin GTX327 (Mark/Micki Phillips)
26. 06:39 PM - RV6a extreem outside tire wear (Charles Heathco)
27. 06:44 PM - Re: RV6a extreem outside tire wear (Bob Hasson)
28. 06:56 PM - Re: Need known good mag (Charlie Kuss)
29. 07:01 PM - Re: Garmin GTX327 (Dale Mitchell)
30. 07:05 PM - Re: Garmin GTX327 (Steve Struyk)
31. 07:11 PM - Re: teflon hose assembly problems (sarg314)
32. 07:15 PM - Re: RV6a extreem outside tire wear (Kyle Boatright)
33. 07:48 PM - Re: Strobe Lighting (Charlie Kuss)
34. 07:49 PM - Elevator Movement after trim cable installation (Jim Thorne)
35. 07:49 PM - Re: AFM Supplement for GPS IFR - Additional Question (tcolson)
36. 07:54 PM - Re: Garmin GTX327 (Richard Dudley)
37. 08:26 PM - Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA (Hamilton McClymont)
38. 08:33 PM - Re: Elevator Movement after trim cable installation (Bobby Hester)
39. 09:24 PM - Re: Elevator Movement after trim cable installation (Jim Thorne)
40. 10:32 PM - Re: Wheel Pants (Mickey Coggins)
41. 10:45 PM - Re: Garmin GTX327 (Nick Nafsinger)
42. 10:58 PM - Re: Dynon Report (James E. Clark)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Sanding out paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
That's exactly the way I did mine. PPG base & clear coat.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave" <dford@michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: Sanding out paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "dave" <dford@michweb.net>
>
>
>>Rich, That stuff is tuff as nails!! Very hard to sand and buff back up
>>to
> a nice finish. I would sand the orange peel and use Clear over the whole
> aircraft at this point. Imron is available in clear.
>
> -----
> Am getting ready to paint and wondering if it would be more forgiving to
> use a 2 stage base/clear for sanding out any orange peel then applying
> clear to bring out the shine without sacrificing the finish in single
> stage scenario.
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
>
Message 2
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Pilots
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Ed,
Here are a few hits from google on the subject.
http://www.st.com/stonline/books/ascii/docs/1679.htm
http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~ih/doc/stepper/
Personally I like the clutched servo option best but it was only when someone mentioned
that
steppers had been used for an AP servo I got thinking.
First - are we certain the tru-trac servo is a stepper? It may be one of a number
of motor styles,
one which comes to mind is a syncro drive, another is a selsyn synchronous motor.
The beauty of he stepper is that it has significant torque at low speeds so does
not need a gearbox.
Direct drive means no backlash and no multiplication of the motor drag load.
Without electrical drive the drag resistance is from the permanent field magnets
acting on the
armature core. Perhaps there are varients that do not have permanent magnets,
I would expect these
to be nearly free turning.
They do not have a position sensor as such, but when the drive signals are applied
the motor will
cog to the next immediate step. Sequencing the voltage on the field coils will
cause the motor to
step to the next step, reverse the sequence the motor steps back. Half steps are
also possible.
The motor fields at minimum could be driven by 4 suitably buffered parallel output
pins of a
microcontroller.
The sheer simplicity of these has some appeal but the output would represent deltas
to the current
aileron position, the system however does not know where the zero deflection actually
is. I don't
know if this matters, but it is a question to resolve in the design.
Doug Gray
Ed Anderson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Yes, I recall our conversation. I appreciate your input as I only have a
> conceptual understanding of a Stepper motor. My inclination is to go with
> what I do understand and that is the Servo motor. The stepper sounds like
> it would work but like most things just a different set of limitations and
> challenges {:>). I had not considered that the stepper might produce more
> EMF - certainly not desirable - I am certain it could be shielded but at
> this moment not certain what the advantage of the stepper would be - unless
> simply considerably cheaper than the aircraft servos. I had thought a
> stepper might not have "resistance" to pilot inputs, but from what you
> explained that does not look to necessarily be the case.
>
> So much to learn - so little time {:>)
>
> Thanks again
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
> Pilots
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Hi Ed,
>>
>> I enjoyed talking with you at Leeward's, I told you I was an Electronics
>
> Tech. I am no expert but I have had some experience with stepper motors and
> servos. I think you would find stepper motors and there drives to cause a
> lot of RF noise. They move one step (say 2 deg/step) when commanded to. So
> command 100 steps - move 200 deg rotation. Change rotation direction at will
> with command. The higher their torque is, the harder it would be to overcome
> their commanded position. So to override the stepper motor with manual
> control stick input could be an undesirably high control stick force. The
> stepper motor itself does not provide feedback. There are multiple ways to
> keep track of the position the motor has moved it's load. Stepper circuits
> normally have a "Home" position switch (such as neutral aileron stick
> position) then the controller or software keeps track of the precision steps
> in both directions from "Home". With this arrangement, if torque of stepper
> motor is exceeded,
>
>> the motor will stall or slip X number of uncommanded steps which would
>
> cause a loss of position tracking. With an additional feedback circuit
> design (such as a potentiometer or rheostat) you could keep track of the
> aileron deflection degrees RT or LT slewing the stepper to the desired
> position (Move clockwise until Aileron LT equals 5 degrees).
>
>> I believe the servo with clutch approach would be more simple, lighter,
>
> and less prone to produce elec. noise.
>
>> Have fun,
>>Mike Mckenna
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>>Date: 2005/03/14 Mon AM 07:37:55 EST
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
>>
> Pilots
>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>>
>>>Hi Doug,
>>>
>>>I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
>>>understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
>>>makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
>>>offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a
>>
> stepper
>
>>>motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on
>>
> the
>
>>>command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
>>>
>>>Ed Anderson
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>>>>
>>>>Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
>>>
>>>benefit.
>>>
>>>>I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
>>>>
>>>>The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
>>>
>>>building a clutched servo. A
>>>
>>>>stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I
>>>
> have
>
>>>done this myself for a
>>>
>>>>job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't
>>>
> get
>
>>>to the bottom of that at
>>>
>>>>the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
>>>>
>>>>Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead
>>>
> printer.
>
>>>>Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
>>>
>>>little more information.
>>>
>>>>Doug Gray
>>>>'6 Fuse, now off the jig.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Ed Anderson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
>>>>
> <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>>>>>Hi Bill,
>>>>>
>>>>>Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
>>>>
>>>always.
>>>
>>>>>Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
>>>>
>>>will
>>>
>>>>>provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with
>>>>
> clock
>
>>>>>frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
>>>>>
>>>>>Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater
>>>>
> than
>
>>>that
>>>
>>>>>shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there.
>>>>
> However,
>
>>>I
>>>
>>>>>have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
>>>>
>>>indicate
>>>
>>>>>is desirable.
>>>>>
>>>>>My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the
>>>>
> servo
>
>>>push
>>>
>>>>>a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell
>>>>
> crank.
>
>>>The
>>>
>>>>>rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually
>>>>
> similar to
>
>>>>>Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A).
>>>>
> However,
>
>>>there
>>>
>>>>>are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would
>>>>
> work,
>
>>>but
>>>
>>>>>might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch
>>>>
> might
>
>>>be
>>>
>>>>>a more elegant way to go.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks for the suggestions
>>>>>
>>>>>Ed
>>>>>
>>>>>Ed Anderson
>>>>>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>>>>Matthews, NC
>>>>>eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>>From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>>>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>At 08:36 PM 3/10/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
>>>>>>
>>><eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>>
>>>>>>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing
>>>>>>
> leveler.
>
>>>I
>>>
>>>>>>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
>>>>>>
>>>>>(PSPICE)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
>>>>>>
>>>>>approach
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers
>>>>>>
> more
>
>>>>>move
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a
>>>>>>
> bit
>
>>>>>much.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited
>>>>>>
> growth
>
>>>>>>>capability.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any
>>>>>
> other
>
>>>>>>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system
>>>>>
> and
>
>>>>>>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will
>>>>>>
> start
>
>>>out
>>>
>>>>>as
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
>>>>>>
>>>that
>>>
>>>>>a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best
>>>>>>
> bet
>
>>>>>(and
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two
>>>>>>
> control
>
>>>>>>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to
>>>>>>
> your
>
>>>set
>>>
>>>>>>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement
>>>>>>
> this
>
>>>>>would
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be
>>>>>>
> compared
>
>>>to
>>>
>>>>>>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
>>>>>>
>>>generate
>>>
>>>>>a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to
>>>>>
> the
>
>>>>>inner
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
>>>>>
>>>heading
>>>
>>>>>>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> A small difference
>>>>>>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference
>>>>>>
> a
>
>>>>>faster
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
>>>>>>
>>>quite
>>>
>>>>>a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the
>>>>>>
> general
>
>>>>>idea.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
>>>>>>
>>>model
>>>
>>>>>>>aircraft servo.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
>>>>>
>>>>>clutch
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
>>>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Thanks for the URLs, Doug
I'll look at them and hopefully pick up a bit more understanding of Stepper
motors. As you say there are undoubtedly some variants which could have
significant benefits.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
Pilots
> --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Ed,
>
> Here are a few hits from google on the subject.
>
> http://www.st.com/stonline/books/ascii/docs/1679.htm
> http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~ih/doc/stepper/
>
>
> Personally I like the clutched servo option best but it was only when
someone mentioned that
> steppers had been used for an AP servo I got thinking.
>
> First - are we certain the tru-trac servo is a stepper? It may be one of
a number of motor styles,
> one which comes to mind is a syncro drive, another is a selsyn synchronous
motor.
>
> The beauty of he stepper is that it has significant torque at low speeds
so does not need a gearbox.
> Direct drive means no backlash and no multiplication of the motor drag
load.
>
> Without electrical drive the drag resistance is from the permanent field
magnets acting on the
> armature core. Perhaps there are varients that do not have permanent
magnets, I would expect these
> to be nearly free turning.
>
> They do not have a position sensor as such, but when the drive signals are
applied the motor will
> cog to the next immediate step. Sequencing the voltage on the field coils
will cause the motor to
> step to the next step, reverse the sequence the motor steps back. Half
steps are also possible.
>
> The motor fields at minimum could be driven by 4 suitably buffered
parallel output pins of a
> microcontroller.
>
> The sheer simplicity of these has some appeal but the output would
represent deltas to the current
> aileron position, the system however does not know where the zero
deflection actually is. I don't
> know if this matters, but it is a question to resolve in the design.
>
> Doug Gray
>
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > Yes, I recall our conversation. I appreciate your input as I only have
a
> > conceptual understanding of a Stepper motor. My inclination is to go
with
> > what I do understand and that is the Servo motor. The stepper sounds
like
> > it would work but like most things just a different set of limitations
and
> > challenges {:>). I had not considered that the stepper might produce
more
> > EMF - certainly not desirable - I am certain it could be shielded but at
> > this moment not certain what the advantage of the stepper would be -
unless
> > simply considerably cheaper than the aircraft servos. I had thought a
> > stepper might not have "resistance" to pilot inputs, but from what you
> > explained that does not look to necessarily be the case.
> >
> > So much to learn - so little time {:>)
> >
> > Thanks again
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > Matthews, NC
> > eanderson@carolina.rr.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List:
Auto
> > Pilots
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >>Hi Ed,
> >>
> >> I enjoyed talking with you at Leeward's, I told you I was an
Electronics
> >
> > Tech. I am no expert but I have had some experience with stepper motors
and
> > servos. I think you would find stepper motors and there drives to cause
a
> > lot of RF noise. They move one step (say 2 deg/step) when commanded to.
So
> > command 100 steps - move 200 deg rotation. Change rotation direction at
will
> > with command. The higher their torque is, the harder it would be to
overcome
> > their commanded position. So to override the stepper motor with manual
> > control stick input could be an undesirably high control stick force.
The
> > stepper motor itself does not provide feedback. There are multiple ways
to
> > keep track of the position the motor has moved it's load. Stepper
circuits
> > normally have a "Home" position switch (such as neutral aileron stick
> > position) then the controller or software keeps track of the precision
steps
> > in both directions from "Home". With this arrangement, if torque of
stepper
> > motor is exceeded,
> >
> >> the motor will stall or slip X number of uncommanded steps which would
> >
> > cause a loss of position tracking. With an additional feedback circuit
> > design (such as a potentiometer or rheostat) you could keep track of the
> > aileron deflection degrees RT or LT slewing the stepper to the desired
> > position (Move clockwise until Aileron LT equals 5 degrees).
> >
> >> I believe the servo with clutch approach would be more simple, lighter,
> >
> > and less prone to produce elec. noise.
> >
> >> Have fun,
> >>Mike Mckenna
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >>>Date: 2005/03/14 Mon AM 07:37:55 EST
> >>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >>>Subject: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
> >>
> > Pilots
> >
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
<eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >>>
> >>>Hi Doug,
> >>>
> >>>I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I
do
> >>>understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
> >>>makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor
not
> >>>offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a
> >>
> > stepper
> >
> >>>motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on
> >>
> > the
> >
> >>>command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
> >>>
> >>>Ed Anderson
> >>>
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> >>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> >>>>
> >>>>Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
> >>>
> >>>benefit.
> >>>
> >>>>I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
> >>>>
> >>>>The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
> >>>
> >>>building a clutched servo. A
> >>>
> >>>>stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I
> >>>
> > have
> >
> >>>done this myself for a
> >>>
> >>>>job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't
> >>>
> > get
> >
> >>>to the bottom of that at
> >>>
> >>>>the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
> >>>>
> >>>>Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead
> >>>
> > printer.
> >
> >>>>Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
> >>>
> >>>little more information.
> >>>
> >>>>Doug Gray
> >>>>'6 Fuse, now off the jig.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Ed Anderson wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
> >>>>
> > <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> >>>>>Hi Bill,
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
> >>>>
> >>>always.
> >>>
> >>>>>Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
> >>>>
> >>>will
> >>>
> >>>>>provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with
> >>>>
> > clock
> >
> >>>>>frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater
> >>>>
> > than
> >
> >>>that
> >>>
> >>>>>shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there.
> >>>>
> > However,
> >
> >>>I
> >>>
> >>>>>have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
> >>>>
> >>>indicate
> >>>
> >>>>>is desirable.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the
> >>>>
> > servo
> >
> >>>push
> >>>
> >>>>>a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell
> >>>>
> > crank.
> >
> >>>The
> >>>
> >>>>>rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually
> >>>>
> > similar to
> >
> >>>>>Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A).
> >>>>
> > However,
> >
> >>>there
> >>>
> >>>>>are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would
> >>>>
> > work,
> >
> >>>but
> >>>
> >>>>>might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch
> >>>>
> > might
> >
> >>>be
> >>>
> >>>>>a more elegant way to go.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Thanks for the suggestions
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Ed
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Ed Anderson
> >>>>>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> >>>>>Matthews, NC
> >>>>>eanderson@carolina.rr.com
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>>>From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> >>>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >>>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>At 08:36 PM 3/10/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
> >>>>>>
> >>><eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >>>
> >>>>>>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing
> >>>>>>
> > leveler.
> >
> >>>I
> >>>
> >>>>>>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>(PSPICE)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>approach
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers
> >>>>>>
> > more
> >
> >>>>>move
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a
> >>>>>>
> > bit
> >
> >>>>>much.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited
> >>>>>>
> > growth
> >
> >>>>>>>capability.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any
> >>>>>
> > other
> >
> >>>>>>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system
> >>>>>
> > and
> >
> >>>>>>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will
> >>>>>>
> > start
> >
> >>>out
> >>>
> >>>>>as
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
> >>>>>>
> >>>that
> >>>
> >>>>>a
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best
> >>>>>>
> > bet
> >
> >>>>>(and
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two
> >>>>>>
> > control
> >
> >>>>>>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to
> >>>>>>
> > your
> >
> >>>set
> >>>
> >>>>>>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement
> >>>>>>
> > this
> >
> >>>>>would
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be
> >>>>>>
> > compared
> >
> >>>to
> >>>
> >>>>>>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
> >>>>>>
> >>>generate
> >>>
> >>>>>a
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to
> >>>>>
> > the
> >
> >>>>>inner
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
> >>>>>
> >>>heading
> >>>
> >>>>>>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> A small difference
> >>>>>>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference
> >>>>>>
> > a
> >
> >>>>>faster
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
> >>>>>>
> >>>quite
> >>>
> >>>>>a
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the
> >>>>>>
> > general
> >
> >>>>>idea.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
> >>>>>>
> >>>model
> >>>
> >>>>>>>aircraft servo.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
> >>>>>
> >>>>>clutch
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
> >>>>>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: teflon hose assembly problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Tom,
There is a tool which has a hollow tube in the center. The Teflon hose goes
down the tube (and is protected) as you use the tool to push back the
stainless steel braid covering, this keeps from "dinging" the soft Teflon
tube while trying to get the braid pushed back. Don't know if you have one
of the tools, but I found they made a difference in getting the ferrule on
the tube.
ED A
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: teflon hose assembly problems
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I decided to try to make my own fuel and oil hoses. I tried to get the
> high quality aluminum racing fittings (Earl's) but the factory can't
> meet demand right now, so I ended up with mostly steel fittings from
> Earl's for the -4 fittings and Russell for the -6 (both are AN). The
> hose is Earl's "speed flex" steel braided teflon. These are 3 part
> fittings with a 1) "nut" or socket, 2) a ferrule (sometimes called an
> olive) and 3) the nipple.
>
> The aluminum Earl's fittings, which I can only get a few of, are great.
> They seem to assemble onto the hoses pretty easily. But the Russells
> are giving me fits. Either I can't get the ferrule pushed over the
> teflon hose without ruining it, or more commonly I can't get the
> hose+ferrule pushed onto the nipple. In the latter case a ridge forms
> in the soft teflon and it's nearly impossible to push the tube part of
> the the nipple past it. My success rate seems to be about one good
> fitting mounted in 3 or 4 attempts. Since you need 2 fittings on each
> hose, I am batting zero so far for finished hoses.
>
> I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
> Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
> pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
> any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
> on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
> over the nipple???
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Wheel pant fairing P.S. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I ment toask if anyone had seen any speed gain with the addition of the pants fairing??
Charlie jheathco
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder - Printing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
What I've done with some success is copy the various objects from
epanelbuilder (one at a time including the panel) and paste them into
"Power Point" . . . . they end up being larger in that environment.
Once you've pasted everything you need you can move them around much
like "epanelbuilder" . . . you can then save the panel as a .jpg
and/or print from "Power Point".
This has been a big help to me! Thank's to Bill for epanelbuilder!
Regards,
Bob
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 20:05:49 -0600, Mark/Micki Phillips
<mphill@gcctv.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
> I did what Mr. Glasson suggested on an earlier post. Worked for me. The
> only problem I have is printing it out. The panel itself prints but no
> instruments or avioincs. Any suggestions??
> Mark Phillips
> Williamsville,Illinois
> RV-6 Finishing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: epanelbuilder
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> > ronschreck@alltel.net writes:
> >
> > Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every
> > time
> > I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up
> > when I
> > try to access the link to their email.
> >
> >
> > I have the same problem.
> > d. preston
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder - Printing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
I have a program called "ScreenSeize" that I downloaded from the PC Magazine
website (www.pcmag.com) a while back. It allows you to copy any part of the
screen and then paste it into Word, PowerPoint, ... I usually grab the
whole panel, but you could also grab individual items like Bob did as well.
Add my kudos to Bill for epanelbuilder!
Dennis Glaeser
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
What I've done with some success is copy the various objects from
epanelbuilder (one at a time including the panel) and paste them into
"Power Point" . . . . they end up being larger in that environment.
Once you've pasted everything you need you can move them around much
like "epanelbuilder" . . . you can then save the panel as a .jpg
and/or print from "Power Point".
This has been a big help to me! Thank's to Bill for epanelbuilder!
Regards,
Bob
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: teflon hose assembly problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
sarg314 wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
<snip>
> I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
> Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
> pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
> any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
> on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
> over the nipple???
There is a bottle of STP oil treatment on my workbench; this is the
slimiest stuff known to man! :-) It is also great for lubricating hose
fittings during assembly. I dip the end of the hose and the inner
fitting in the STP just before assembly.
Sam Buchanan
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Does anyone have one the EKP-IV GPS units? Any comments?
http://www.avmapnavigation.com/
-Bill
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Tail Dragger Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I am currently on the wing kit of an RV-7A and was wondering a few questions...
1. If I wanted to convert to a tail wheel at this point, it looks like the only
problem I would have is during the empennage stage drilling some
holes at the bottom of the vertical stabilizer that were specific to the nose wheel
configuration. Could I go back and redrill the holes for the
tail wheel configuration without re-doing the whole vertical stabilizer rear spar?
or would I need to replace the piece?
2. How much more on average is insurance on a tail dragger? (10%, 20%, 50%)? I
have no tail dragger time either...
3. Does resell value decrease/increase with a tail dragger? I heard it decreases
because fewer buyers are comfortable with it. Is this true?
how much does it really affect resellability?
I think that is it, I am just doing some initial feasibility investigation into
the possibility. Thanks.
- Matt Johnson
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Well,
rumour has it that the Dynon folks are soon to be releasing their new D10
EMS engine monitoring system. So far the only thing I can tell you about it
is that it's sweet little package that displays a lot of info. All of which
you can ignore because the audio will let you know when its time to pucker
up.
All limits are programmable, and everything measured can be alarmed via
light or audio.
It will sense
Tach
MAP
cht
egt
op
ot
fp
4 fuel levels
fuel flow
volts
amps
cat
tit
and few other programmable inputs like a contact for say "door closed" or
"gear down"
plus for those of you who have their EFIS it will display that data on this
screen, which is good for mounting it in a side by side configuration so the
copilot gets to play as well.
It will also have a data port so one can do data logging. Not yet quite sure
how that will work out in terms of format, but I think the goal will be to
use a spreadsheet to graph all that cool data.
It would be very cool if the EFIS could do this in a form that could then be
used to drive an EFIS simulator so one could review their last flight, both
in terms of flight parameters, but also engine parameters. The EFIS does
data log, but I don't think the simulator is available... hint hint.
Anyways, since I don't work for Dynon, and they haven't given me any
indication that it will be available on a specific date, to the general
market, all I can tell you is that the little bugger is really cool,,,,
oops, I mean looks like it will be really cool. Is really easy to,,,, oops,
I mean looks like it will be really easy to install, and if I were building
a new plane right now for day VFR I would buy both, with a steam ASI and
Altimeter in a cross pattern, and go flying.
Who needs all that other stuff. 4 holes, a few switches, and yank the pull
start cord... wheeeeeee
ta ta
W
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder - Printing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
>
> I have a program called "ScreenSeize" that I downloaded from the PC Magazine
> website (www.pcmag.com) a while back. It allows you to copy any part of the
> screen and then paste it into Word, PowerPoint, ... I usually grab the
> whole panel, but you could also grab individual items like Bob did as well.
>
> Add my kudos to Bill for epanelbuilder!
>
> Dennis Glaeser
It's not necessary to download a program to do this. It's built into Windows.
Just make sure that the panel is completely visible in the Internet Explorer
window and hit the 'Print Screen' button (sometimes labeled PrtScr) on your
keyboard. Then open up Paint, and paste (edit->paste). It will paste the
entire screenshot as in image into the Paint program. You can now crop the
image down and save it as whatever file type you wish. I would recommend a
non-lossy format such as .png/.gif/.bmp. JPEG is lossy and is intended for
photographs and doesn't do very well at saving fine details of images.
Also note that if you hit alt+print screen instead of just print screen it
will copy the contents of the selected window instead of the entire desktop.
Hope that's useful.
- Jamie
do not archive
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings almost done
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: More On lost power on takeopff |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 3/14/05 10:54:35 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
cheathco@comcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Thanks everyone for the responses. I am subsc to digest only to keep box
from overflowing so get each morn. my 6a has run Mogas since built, and have
gotten direct responses from Mogas burners that it is vaporlock problem, along
with tips on how to avoid it. My gas lines are insulated, but I think some way
of diverting some air to the fuel pump and carb would be a good idea. any
sugestions? charlie
Charlie,
The engine will run quite a while on the fuel in the float bowl -- several
seconds even at full power. Be sure that your tank is feeding during
acceleration by finding a place to get the tail down to about a 30 degree angle
and
see if it will still run OK -- while sitting still of course! Could the
fitting in the tank have come loose allowing the fuel to unport? I would think
that could only happen to one tank unless you are the unluckiest guy on earth.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Hi Guys,
As with many others on the List, I have explained many options and
techniques that can be used to finish your aircraft.
I would advise you to check the archives prior to asking your questions.
Many of the same questions were addressed just a few months ago.
Please don't take this the wrong way but, do a little research first.
If your question is still not satisfied, I would invite you to query
the List or e-mail those of us with some experience directly.
Just my 2 cents...
Jim Duckett N708JD
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: teflon hose assembly problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Tom,
I'm not quite sure why you needed Teflon hose. I made some of my oil hoses
from the fittings and SS braided synthetic rubber hose that Vans sells. The
hose that I used was Aeroquip AE701. I'm not sure if it came from A/C Spruce
or Vans, actually. My success rate was 100% including testing them to 1000
PSI with a modified bottle jack for a pump, and using them on the plane. Ask
Vans for the instruction sheet. Someone else on the list suggested a grease
gun for a pressure source. "T" a gauge into the system, fill the hoses up
with motor oil and connect to the pump and test.
Sorry, if I missed some of this thread. Hoping to be of some help.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying for 72 hours, in paint shop now)
In a message dated 3/15/05 12:12:33 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
over the nipple???
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Message 16
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|
Pilots
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Good links, thanks Doug. I can use a little stepper smarts too!
Dave
do not archive
Doug Gray wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
>Ed,
>
>Here are a few hits from google on the subject.
>
>http://www.st.com/stonline/books/ascii/docs/1679.htm
>http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~ih/doc/stepper/
>
>
>Personally I like the clutched servo option best but it was only when someone
mentioned that
>steppers had been used for an AP servo I got thinking.
>
>First - are we certain the tru-trac servo is a stepper? It may be one of a number
of motor styles,
>one which comes to mind is a syncro drive, another is a selsyn synchronous motor.
>
>The beauty of he stepper is that it has significant torque at low speeds so does
not need a gearbox.
>Direct drive means no backlash and no multiplication of the motor drag load.
>
>Without electrical drive the drag resistance is from the permanent field magnets
acting on the
>armature core. Perhaps there are varients that do not have permanent magnets,
I would expect these
>to be nearly free turning.
>
>They do not have a position sensor as such, but when the drive signals are applied
the motor will
>cog to the next immediate step. Sequencing the voltage on the field coils will
cause the motor to
>step to the next step, reverse the sequence the motor steps back. Half steps are
also possible.
>
>The motor fields at minimum could be driven by 4 suitably buffered parallel output
pins of a
>microcontroller.
>
>The sheer simplicity of these has some appeal but the output would represent deltas
to the current
>aileron position, the system however does not know where the zero deflection actually
is. I don't
>know if this matters, but it is a question to resolve in the design.
>
>Doug Gray
>
>
>Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>
>>Hi Mike,
>>
>>Yes, I recall our conversation. I appreciate your input as I only have a
>>conceptual understanding of a Stepper motor. My inclination is to go with
>>what I do understand and that is the Servo motor. The stepper sounds like
>>it would work but like most things just a different set of limitations and
>>challenges {:>). I had not considered that the stepper might produce more
>>EMF - certainly not desirable - I am certain it could be shielded but at
>>this moment not certain what the advantage of the stepper would be - unless
>>simply considerably cheaper than the aircraft servos. I had thought a
>>stepper might not have "resistance" to pilot inputs, but from what you
>>explained that does not look to necessarily be the case.
>>
>>So much to learn - so little time {:>)
>>
>>Thanks again
>>
>>Ed
>>
>>Ed Anderson
>>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>Matthews, NC
>>eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
>>Pilots
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>>Hi Ed,
>>>
>>>I enjoyed talking with you at Leeward's, I told you I was an Electronics
>>>
>>>
>>Tech. I am no expert but I have had some experience with stepper motors and
>>servos. I think you would find stepper motors and there drives to cause a
>>lot of RF noise. They move one step (say 2 deg/step) when commanded to. So
>>command 100 steps - move 200 deg rotation. Change rotation direction at will
>>with command. The higher their torque is, the harder it would be to overcome
>>their commanded position. So to override the stepper motor with manual
>>control stick input could be an undesirably high control stick force. The
>>stepper motor itself does not provide feedback. There are multiple ways to
>>keep track of the position the motor has moved it's load. Stepper circuits
>>normally have a "Home" position switch (such as neutral aileron stick
>>position) then the controller or software keeps track of the precision steps
>>in both directions from "Home". With this arrangement, if torque of stepper
>>motor is exceeded,
>>
>>
>>
>>>the motor will stall or slip X number of uncommanded steps which would
>>>
>>>
>>cause a loss of position tracking. With an additional feedback circuit
>>design (such as a potentiometer or rheostat) you could keep track of the
>>aileron deflection degrees RT or LT slewing the stepper to the desired
>>position (Move clockwise until Aileron LT equals 5 degrees).
>>
>>
>>
>>>I believe the servo with clutch approach would be more simple, lighter,
>>>
>>>
>>and less prone to produce elec. noise.
>>
>>
>>
>>>Have fun,
>>>Mike Mckenna
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>>>Date: 2005/03/14 Mon AM 07:37:55 EST
>>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Subject: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
>>>>
>>>>
>>Pilots
>>
>>
>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>>>
>>>>Hi Doug,
>>>>
>>>>I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
>>>>understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
>>>>makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
>>>>offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a
>>>>
>>>>
>>stepper
>>
>>
>>
>>>>motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on
>>>>
>>>>
>>the
>>
>>
>>
>>>>command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
>>>>
>>>>Ed Anderson
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>>>>>
>>>>>Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>benefit.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
>>>>>
>>>>>The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>building a clutched servo. A
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>have
>>
>>
>>
>>>>done this myself for a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>get
>>
>>
>>
>>>>to the bottom of that at
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
>>>>>
>>>>>Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>printer.
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>little more information.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Doug Gray
>>>>>'6 Fuse, now off the jig.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Ed Anderson wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>><eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>Hi Bill,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>always.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>will
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>clock
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>than
>>
>>
>>
>>>>that
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>However,
>>
>>
>>
>>>>I
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>indicate
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>is desirable.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>servo
>>
>>
>>
>>>>push
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>crank.
>>
>>
>>
>>>>The
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>similar to
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A).
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>However,
>>
>>
>>
>>>>there
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>work,
>>
>>
>>
>>>>but
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>might
>>
>>
>>
>>>>be
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>a more elegant way to go.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks for the suggestions
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Ed
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Ed Anderson
>>>>>>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>>>>>Matthews, NC
>>>>>>eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>>>>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>At 08:36 PM 3/10/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>><eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>leveler.
>>
>>
>>
>>>>I
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>(PSPICE)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>approach
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>more
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>move
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>bit
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>much.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>growth
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>>>capability.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>other
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>and
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>start
>>
>>
>>
>>>>out
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>as
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>that
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>a
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>bet
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>(and
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>control
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>your
>>
>>
>>
>>>>set
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>this
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>would
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>compared
>>
>>
>>
>>>>to
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>generate
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>a
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>the
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>inner
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>heading
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>A small difference
>>>>>>>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>a
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>faster
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>quite
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>a
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>general
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>>idea.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>model
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>>aircraft servo.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>clutch
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Teflon hose assembly problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hasson" <hassonr@theriver.com>
Dan,
All flex hoses used in aviation applications (except Teflon lined) have a
recommended service life, after which they should be replaced. Properly
assembled and tested Teflon lined hoses should last the life of the
airplane.
Bob
RV-6A
365 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: teflon hose assembly problems
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Tom,
I'm not quite sure why you needed Teflon hose. I made some of my oil hoses
from the fittings and SS braided synthetic rubber hose that Vans sells. The
hose that I used was Aeroquip AE701. I'm not sure if it came from A/C
Spruce
or Vans, actually. My success rate was 100% including testing them to 1000
PSI with a modified bottle jack for a pump, and using them on the plane.
Ask
Vans for the instruction sheet. Someone else on the list suggested a
grease
gun for a pressure source. "T" a gauge into the system, fill the hoses up
with motor oil and connect to the pump and test.
Sorry, if I missed some of this thread. Hoping to be of some help.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying for 72 hours, in paint shop now)
In a message dated 3/15/05 12:12:33 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
over the nipple???
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: RVers near Alice Springs, Australia? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
G'day Tim,
Don't know how much RV activity there would be arount the Alice,
particularly that time of year, being very warm. There is a bunch of RVer's
on both the East and West coasts, but you will be a long, long way from
there. FWIW - I may well be at the Alice with a group of home-builders
around July.
Cheers
Martin In Oz
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Strange - coincidence? |
0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
--> RV-List message posted by: John <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I was looking at the Sensenich ad in the April Kit Planes magazine today
and there was a promo from a builder/pilot lauding the Sensenich
prop...even mentioned it was an 85-inch unit....I thought that was
vaugely familiar, so I looked up his name in the Matronics archives and
in a posting by a person with that exact same name on Oct 21, 2001, the
poster complained about his 85-inch Sensenich prop, that he could not
get over 60% power while staying under 2,700-RPM.. But in the Sensenich
ad it was stated that the only other RV that could pass him was a 220-HP
RV4 .I sent an e-mail to the lister to see what had changed, and the
e-mail 'bounced' so I don't know what's going on. Very odd.
John
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Jim Duckett wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
>
>Hi Guys,
>As with many others on the List, I have explained many options and
>techniques that can be used to finish your aircraft.
>I would advise you to check the archives prior to asking your questions.
> Many of the same questions were addressed just a few months ago.
>Please don't take this the wrong way but, do a little research first.
> If your question is still not satisfied, I would invite you to query
>the List or e-mail those of us with some experience directly.
>
>Just my 2 cents...
>
>Jim Duckett N708JD
>
Are there any computer gurus on the list that would be willing to set up
a wiki? Would Matt be willing to host one? It's kind of like a dynamic
FAQ file.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=wiki&btnG=Google+Search
http://wiki.org/wiki.cgi?WhatIsWiki
Once they are set up, anyone given privileges can alter/add/delete any
info at any time. This might sound chaotic, but the concept seems to
work pretty well. Anyone willing to do so can add info in a much more
concise format so we won't need to wade through dozens or hundreds or
even thousands of emails. The thousands of emails on primer could
probably be condensed to a few dozen overall opinions & have all bases
covered without the info being repeated.
Charlie
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
I contacted Wally Anderson of Synergyair builder assistance fellow. I have
to say Wally was very responsive and straight forward. It was good to get
his quick feed back on all my questions. Here is what he had to say on the
subject of partially building in the US then trying to ship to Canada.
"Hello Kevin
You have a major problem on your hands. They will not allow you to close
out any parts with out an inspection. I have asked a good friend in Canada
if there is a way around it and there seem to be no way. Sorry
You could get a lot done but you better talk to an inspector in your area
first.
Wally"
So partial completion is a no go. It's still not clear how a flying and
signed off experimental aircraft would be treated by the Canadian aviation
authority. Has anyone here ever been involved with transfering a US built,
flying and signed off experiment plane into Canada?
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in
USA
--> RV-List message posted by: "steven dinieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Also the faa inspectors won't get involved in any inspection except the
final. So incremental inspections would have to done via eaa tech
counselor or perhaps an AP mech. Which may not help meet the
requirements of Canadian inspection procedures. Fwiw, perhaps a dar
could help..
Steve d
N221rv, n223rv, n231rv(rv10)
>I'm looking at possibly getting some serious builder assistance from a
>fellow in the USA. I would be present and doing 90% of work.
>
>Anyone know how this will affect my ability to complete the kit in
Canada
>considering that most of the airframe will have been inspected by US
>inspectors. I honestly don't know how much I would get done down south
but
>I'm thinking between 75 - 95% again I would be present and hands on for
the
>entire building process.
>
The fact that you used builder assistance won't be a problem, as that
is now specifcally allowed in Canada. But I am almost certain that
you will need to have the inspections done by either Transport
Canada, or the MDRA inspectors.
The MDRA has been delegated to do inspections in Canada, so I
recommend that you contact them to discuss this:
Message 22
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
I've been reading the post about composites with much
interest. I own and operate Carbon Fiber Composites
and have been producing carbon fiber wheel pants for a
few years now. I use Mil Spec C-282 carbon fiber,
polyester gel coat and a compatiable resin system. I
have manufactured my own production quality molds for
pressure recovery style wheel pants that fit 5:00X5
wheels and tires. If anyone needs assistance with
glass work, you are welcome to call or email me any
time.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 23
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| Subject: | Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in |
USA
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> USA
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
>I contacted Wally Anderson of Synergyair builder assistance fellow. I have
>to say Wally was very responsive and straight forward. It was good to get
>his quick feed back on all my questions. Here is what he had to say on the
>subject of partially building in the US then trying to ship to Canada.
>
>"Hello Kevin
>
>You have a major problem on your hands. They will not allow you to close
>out any parts with out an inspection. I have asked a good friend in Canada
>if there is a way around it and there seem to be no way. Sorry
>
>You could get a lot done but you better talk to an inspector in your area
>first.
>
>Wally"
>
>So partial completion is a no go. It's still not clear how a flying and
>signed off experimental aircraft would be treated by the Canadian aviation
>authority. Has anyone here ever been involved with transfering a US built,
>flying and signed off experiment plane into Canada?
There was an exemption to the CARs that expired at the end of January
this year. I suspect it has been, or will be extended, or the CARs
will shortly be amended to enshine the info in the regs. The
exemption allowed foreign amateur-built aircraft to be imported into
Canada, if they met the Canadian requirements, and they had flown 100
hours. See paragraph # 7 in Part I:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/civilaviation/maintenance/aarpe/Recreational/AppendixC.htm
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Grand Rapids EFIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lou Bello <loub123@nu-z.net>
Hello, I live in North East Georgia and need to know if there are folks
that are currently flying the Grand Rapids EFIS system in the South
Carolina or North East Georgia area that I could see. I am working on
the instrument panel of my GlaStar. TIA. Lou Bello.
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind of screwdriver unscrews the
latching mechanism for the tray??
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | RV6a extreem outside tire wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I pulled the pants to check brake pads, and found my tires on both sides were badly
worn on the outside. I made a somewhat primitive check and looks like I have
mucho toe in. I bought the plane flying. It had 40 hrs on it when I bought
it in Nov, and now just under 80. Much of that time has been landing/taxying.
I have tried several combinations of wording in archives, Only one mention back
in 1995. I am going to dig thru the manual, and would apreciate some advice
on how to fix this toe in problem.
Charlie heathco
Message 27
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| Subject: | RV6a extreem outside tire wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hasson" <hassonr@theriver.com>
Charlie,
Your problem may not be toe in. The original tires on my 6A lasted 100
hours and had the same wear pattern that you describe. I replaced them with
the best Michelin tire and there is no abnormal wear at 365 hours!!!
Bob
RV-6A
365 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Heathco
Subject: RV-List: RV6a extreem outside tire wear
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I pulled the pants to check brake pads, and found my tires on both sides
were badly worn on the outside. I made a somewhat primitive check and looks
like I have mucho toe in. I bought the plane flying. It had 40 hrs on it
when I bought it in Nov, and now just under 80. Much of that time has been
landing/taxying. I have tried several combinations of wording in archives,
Only one mention back in 1995. I am going to dig thru the manual, and would
apreciate some advice on how to fix this toe in problem.
Charlie heathco
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Need known good mag |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Charlie
You might want to consider having your magneto(s) overhauled by Howard
Lebersky. He is an old timer, who has been overhauling Mags since they were
"cutting edge" technology. He's in Okechobee, Florida. He charged my
friend, Eric Hensen, $120 per mag to rebuild. He does excellent work. Phone
number is
863-467-6464
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
>I have deceided to go with one mag and one electronic for now on my RV6a,
>and both my mags are old and fear they are near end of service. I wonder
>if anyone might have a known good mag laying around from an elec
>conversion they want o sell. I now have bendix, could convert if have the
>wiring. my engine is O-320E2A Charlie heathco, reply to mail
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX327 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
Small Allen wrench.
Dale
--- Mark/Micki Phillips <mphill@gcctv.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips"
> <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
> Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind
> of screwdriver unscrews the latching mechanism for
> the tray??
> Mark Phillips
> Williamsville,Illinois
> RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX327 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Mark,
It's not a screw, it's an allen head. I don't recall the size but it's about
an 1/8 of an inch.
Steve Struyk
RV-8 N842S (Res.)
St. Charles, MO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin GTX327
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
> Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind of screwdriver
> unscrews the latching mechanism for the tray??
> Mark Phillips
> Williamsville,Illinois
> RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: teflon hose assembly problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
>Tom,
>
>I'm not quite sure why you needed Teflon hose.
>
>
Dan:
It's not terribly compelling, but the teflon stuff has a somewhat
better high temperature performance specification (450 F) than the
synthetic rubber and is chemically impervious to virtually everything.
Should the fuel composition change (as it will in 2009, I think) no
conceivable additive will affect the teflon. The synthetic rubber hose
is almost, but not quite as tough in this respect.
That said, the teflon has so far been a major pain in the butt.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RV6a extreem outside tire wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV6a extreem outside tire wear
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
> I pulled the pants to check brake pads, and found my tires on both sides
> were badly worn on the outside. I made a somewhat primitive check and
> looks like I have mucho toe in. I bought the plane flying. It had 40 hrs
> on it when I bought it in Nov, and now just under 80. Much of that time
> has been landing/taxying. I have tried several combinations of wording in
> archives, Only one mention back in 1995. I am going to dig thru the
> manual, and would apreciate some advice on how to fix this toe in problem.
> Charlie heathco
>
Charlie,
The outside of the tire wears more on almost every taildragger RV I've seen.
Part of my condition inspection is rotating the tires to balance out this
wear pattern.
KB
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Mickey,
Someone else asked this question a few months ago. The answer is the same
now, as then. Buy the lens from Vans. Part number LN A612. The price has
gone up from $18 (I bought mine 2 months ago) to $20 each. See
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1110942778-448-594&browse=lighting&product=strobe_parts
Vans doesn't carry the retaining ring. Those you buy from ACS. Part # A628,
page 408 for $17.70 each. See
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/whelenstrobeparts2.php
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Hi,
>
>I didn't know the strobes needed lenses over them. I was
>just planning on popping the strobe head into the sheared
>wingtip light area and be done with it. Is the one you
>are talking about this one: Part Number = LN A612 LENS,CLEAR
>
>and the ACS part: WHELEN LENS RETAINER A426 $28.300
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>Charlie Kuss wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Scott,
> > For a 3 strobe system, the Nova 90 watt unit is the one that is the
> equal
> > of the Whelen system (as regards power). This unit exceeds the light
> output
> > currently required by the FAA. You will need to install the Whelen strobe
> > lens and retainers over the strobe heads (aka bulbs). Vans has the best
> > price on the lens, go to ACS for the lens retainers. The lens are needed
> > with both the Whelen and Nova units. The FAA wants the majority of the
> > light to be biased in the horizontal plane. That is accomplished via the
> > lens. FYI Nova replacement bulbs are $24.95 each, versus $59.95 for the
> > Whelen replacements.
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
> >>
> >> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system
> >>6 strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav
> >>lights, and just installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations
> >>for night flight are somewhat specific in the visibility of the strobes,
> >>and I had a few questions: * Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario
> >>(wingtips and tail), is it a problem if the strobe head is on the forward
> >>facing portion of the sheared wingtip (nav light would be on portion
> >>parallel to fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply, what is the
> >>preferred output (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned" similar setup
> >>care to comment on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed to
> >>Whelan)? Thanks,Scott7A
> >>
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 Wiring
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Elevator Movement after trim cable installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
I installed my trim cable today. All seems well except that the elevator now does
not freely drop to the down position. It will go to the limit smoothly but
you can feel the stiffness the cable has added when moving it by hand. You
can't feel it through the stick. Seems every airplane I've ever preflight had
free movement up and down so I wondering if mine is normal or something needs
to be changed. Couldn't find anything in the archives that seemed to relate
to this issue.
Jim Thorne
RV-7A QB
CHD
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: AFM Supplement for GPS IFR - Additional Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "tcolson" <tcolson@cedar-rapids.net>
What constitutes an FAA approved flight Manual supplement for an IFR GPS in
an experimental? The approved supplement that comes with GPS sets lists the
certified aircraft to which the STC applies. Since it doesn't cover our RVs
do we need to request specific approval from someone within the FAA? Do we
need to make any mods to the supplement provided such as list our RV
aircraft in the supplement?
Thanks
Tom Olson
N298TC
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX327 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Mark,
The latching mechanism uses a hex drive tool. It is 3/32. It is one of
the smaller size hex wrenches. The 430, 327 and 340 all use the same wrench.
Good luck,
Richard Dudley
6A flying
Mark/Micki Phillips wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
>Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind of screwdriver unscrews the
latching mechanism for the tray??
>Mark Phillips
>Williamsville,Illinois
>RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hamilton McClymont" <ham@hammcc.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
USA
Subject: RE: RV-List: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance
in USA
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> USA
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams"
>--> <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
>I contacted Wally Anderson of Synergyair builder assistance fellow. I
>have to say Wally was very responsive and straight forward. It was
>good to get his quick feed back on all my questions. Here is what he
>had to say on the subject of partially building in the US then trying
>to ship to Canada.
>
>"Hello Kevin
>
>You have a major problem on your hands. They will not allow you to
>close out any parts with out an inspection. I have asked a good friend
>in Canada if there is a way around it and there seem to be no way.
>Sorry
>
>You could get a lot done but you better talk to an inspector in your
>area first.
>
>Wally"
>
>So partial completion is a no go. It's still not clear how a flying
>and signed off experimental aircraft would be treated by the Canadian
>aviation authority. Has anyone here ever been involved with
>transfering a US built, flying and signed off experiment plane into
>Canada?
There was an exemption to the CARs that expired at the end of January
this year. I suspect it has been, or will be extended, or the CARs
will shortly be amended to enshine the info in the regs. The
exemption allowed foreign amateur-built aircraft to be imported into
Canada, if they met the Canadian requirements, and they had flown 100
hours. See paragraph # 7 in Part I:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/civilaviation/maintenance/aarpe/Recreational/Appendi
xC.htm
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
The exemption was renewed (finally). I have a word file of the document
I can email if anyone wants it.
Ham McClymont
RV-4 C-GWYR
Richmond, BC
www.hammcc.com
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Movement after trim cable installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Jim Thorne wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
>
>I installed my trim cable today. All seems well except that the elevator now
does not freely drop to the down position. It will go to the limit smoothly but
you can feel the stiffness the cable has added when moving it by hand. You
can't feel it through the stick. Seems every airplane I've ever preflight had
free movement up and down so I wondering if mine is normal or something needs
to be changed. Couldn't find anything in the archives that seemed to relate
to this issue.
>
>Jim Thorne
>RV-7A QB
>CHD
>
>
Mine is the same way. I think they loosen up after they are used some.
Mines not flying yet.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Movement after trim cable installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
Thanks. Do not archive.
Jim Thorne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Movement after trim cable installation
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Jim Thorne wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
>>
>>I installed my trim cable today. All seems well except that the elevator
>>now does not freely drop to the down position. It will go to the limit
>>smoothly but you can feel the stiffness the cable has added when moving it
>>by hand. You can't feel it through the stick. Seems every airplane I've
>>ever preflight had free movement up and down so I wondering if mine is
>>normal or something needs to be changed. Couldn't find anything in the
>>archives that seemed to relate to this issue.
>>
>>Jim Thorne
>>RV-7A QB
>>CHD
>>
>>
> Mine is the same way. I think they loosen up after they are used some.
> Mines not flying yet.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
>
Message 40
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Brian,
Thanks for the info. After a bit of glass work, and
lots of sanding and filing, I've got the two halves
of my wheel pants fitting together. Max gap between
them is less than 0.020", which may sound impressive,
but you can still see the gap. Close enough.
I was a bit surprised that whomever made these didn't
just cut them straight, so that they would fit nicely.
Must be part of the famous "51%".
I don't remember where I heard it, but someone said
when you are working with composites, remember that
impatience is the enemy. I kept repeating this over
and over as I was sanding and filing, and it helped!
Besides, I'm waiting for my engine, so I don't have
much else to work on.
Best regards,
Mickey
Brian Alley wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
>
> I've been reading the post about composites with much
> interest. I own and operate Carbon Fiber Composites
> and have been producing carbon fiber wheel pants for a
> few years now. I use Mil Spec C-282 carbon fiber,
> polyester gel coat and a compatiable resin system. I
> have manufactured my own production quality molds for
> pressure recovery style wheel pants that fit 5:00X5
> wheels and tires. If anyone needs assistance with
> glass work, you are welcome to call or email me any
> time.
>
> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
> CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
> 101 Caroline Circle
> Hurricane, WV 25526
> 304-562-6800 home
>
>
> How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick Nafsinger" <nick@creteaviation.com>
Should be a 3/32 Allen Wrench.
Nick
Park Rapids Avionics
301 Airport Rd.
Hwy 71 South
Park Rapids, MN
218.255.2768
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark/Micki
Phillips
Subject: RV-List: Garmin GTX327
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind of screwdriver
unscrews the latching mechanism for the tray??
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 42
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Do you mean something like this??
http://www.flightperformance.com/flight_performance_software-EFIS.htm
James
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
| server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
| Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 11:00 AM
| To: 'rv-list@matronics.com'
| Subject: RV-List: Dynon Report
|
| --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
|
| Well,
|
| rumour has it that the Dynon folks are soon to be releasing their new D10
| EMS engine monitoring system. So far the only thing I can tell you about
{SNIP}
| It would be very cool if the EFIS could do this in a form that could then
| be
| used to drive an EFIS simulator so one could review their last flight,
| both
| in terms of flight parameters, but also engine parameters. The EFIS does
| data log, but I don't think the simulator is available... hint hint.
|
{SNIP}
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