Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:13 AM - Re: Carb problems-Long (sportypilot@stx.rr.com)
2. 04:50 AM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (Charles Heathco)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: RV 7 Sliding Canopy (Dale Ensing)
4. 06:34 AM - (Wheeler North)
5. 06:46 AM - Re: Carburator Control (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
6. 06:47 AM - tire wear (Wheeler North)
7. 08:55 AM - FS RV Belt Buckles (Glenn Brasch)
8. 09:06 AM - Re: Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users (John DeCuir)
9. 10:17 AM - Re: FS RV Belt Buckles (JOHN STARN)
10. 10:44 AM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (Dave Mader)
11. 11:43 AM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
12. 11:58 AM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
13. 12:00 PM - Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF (Oliver Washburn)
14. 12:11 PM - Re: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
15. 12:26 PM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (Dan Checkoway)
16. 12:27 PM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (linn walters)
17. 12:44 PM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
18. 01:07 PM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (Dan Checkoway)
19. 01:54 PM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
20. 01:55 PM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (John Danielson)
21. 02:06 PM - Re: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF (Oliver Washburn)
22. 02:21 PM - Re: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF (oliver h washburn)
23. 02:41 PM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (Sam Buchanan)
24. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users (sportav8r@aol.com)
25. 04:53 PM - Teflon hose assembly (Mike Holland)
26. 04:57 PM - Re: Teflon hose assembly (Sam Buchanan)
27. 05:29 PM - Re: Teflon hose assembly (sportypilot@stx.rr.com)
28. 06:14 PM - Re: Teflon hose assembly (Dave Bristol)
29. 06:39 PM - Re: Teflon hose assembly (sportypilot@stx.rr.com)
30. 06:41 PM - Re: Teflon hose assembly (Walter Tondu)
31. 06:46 PM - Re: Teflon hose assembly (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
32. 07:15 PM - Can't get full aft control deflection (Walter Tondu)
33. 07:28 PM - Tach Cable (Tommy Walker)
34. 07:32 PM - interior paint (Greg@itmack)
35. 07:39 PM - Re: interior paint (Kyle Boatright)
36. 07:46 PM - Re: Tach Cable (cgalley)
37. 07:55 PM - Re: Can't get full aft control deflection (Jeff Dowling)
38. 07:59 PM - Re: Tire wear problem resolution (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
39. 09:02 PM - Re: interior paint (Jim Oke)
40. 09:24 PM - Re: interior paint (Bob C.)
41. 09:42 PM - Re: RV-Wiki (was: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc.) (j1j2h3@juno.com)
42. 10:44 PM - FOR SALE: RV-7[A] tail kit + tools (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Carb problems-Long |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportypilot@stx.rr.com
Great story John , thanks for sharing it with us..
Danny...
do not archive
> I am going to relate an experience a friend of mine and myself had
> 2 years
> ago. I wasnt going to repeat this to anyone but I thought it might
> be of
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Yes grass strip would help a lot. and the last time i landed my cherokee on
one I t took me a while to get the grass stains off as I let it seet a week.
I have to taxie about a mile to rny 25 which is what we use much of the
time. Cesnas and also grummans dont have the wear out problem, tire wear is
not "designed in" :-) charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire wear problem resolution
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Charles,
Glad to hear things are as they should be. "Right!" was my first
reaction to "they're designed to do that." Then I thought about it for a
while. It would be sensible for the tires to be in proper alignment when
the plane is at gross weight. At weights less than that the gear
wouldn't spread so much which would bring the wheels a little closer
together. This would change the angle to put the outside of the tire
into contact with the pavement. When landing, no weight on the gear at
all would really bring the wheels together which would put the wear on
the outside edge to an even greater extent. I wonder if Cessnas do this.
If this is really bothering you I see three options. Rotate the tires
every annual, buy new tires when they wear out or land on grass. I like
grass strips except for getting grass stains on the nose fairing. I
changed tires on a Cherokee a few years ago when the inner tubes would
no longer hold air. The plane had been flown out of a grass strip for 25
years and I believe the tires were original equipment.
Mark
Do not archive
Charles Heathco wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
>Im so happy!! I dont really have a problem with my 6a after all. I got an
>email replay from vans telling me the tires always wear out on the
>outside, thats the way its designed. Wow, and to think, I saw that as a
>abnormal.. Silly me.. Charlie heathco
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Sliding Canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Stan Jones,
If I remember correctly Jim Cones procedure for the slider was in the RVator
book. Do you have a copy?
Dale Ensing
do not archive
Message 4
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1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Ken,
Tell Nora and Eustace that they are both in my prayers. Although we've never
met he has helped me many times on this list. This has not been the best
year so far, I have two funerals to attend today, and have already been to
four this year.
Wheeler
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Carburator Control |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Larry (in Southern Indiana, I think),
One thing that comes to mind is that if you run the cable in a straight line
you'll get more stroke than if it has bends in it. You can try this outside
of the airplane and it'll make a believer out of you.
Now, if you've run the cable as straight as is reasonable to the carb (not
that you have a lot of choices here!), one thing you can do is drill another
hole closer to the throttle shaft. You can measure what the stroke
requirement will be with a ruler at the proposed new hole location. Allow maybe
1/16
inch less than the stroke you measure on the cable and you should be good to
go. I had to do this on my Fuel Injection servo. The arm had a suitable
place to drill the hole, so it worked out OK. Even though 2 inches seems like
a
short stroke, it works fine.
Hope this helps.
Dan Hopper
Walton, (Northern) IN
RV-7A (Was flying, now in the paint shop)
PS, paint your airplane before you fly it, and avoid the pain of being
without your airplane after you get addicted to it!
In a message dated 3/17/05 5:15:47 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
flyboy.bob@gmail.com writes:
On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:49:17 -0600, LarryRobertHelming
<lhelming@sigecom.net> wrote:
> >
> > I have my TMX O-360 Mattituck engine and did my first start up. After
this, we did some checking and found the Van's FWF supplied push/pull control
that travels 2" does not take the carb to full open AND full closed. The
travel is just short about 1/4" or so. Or the carb arm is too long. I found,
if I set it for full throttle, the idle is 1200. NO GOOD.. The carb is a
Precision model MA-4-5. The distance from center of hole to center of hole in
the arm is 1.75". Van's aircraft advises that I should connect control to
middle hole. Well, I only have one hole. Is there a suggestion or
recommendation for this condition. Also, I seem to lack a bit of travel to get
the
mixture to go from full rich stop and full lean stop.
> >
> > Larry Helming in Indiana
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I have read everything I can find re wheel/axil alignment (not much, but
mucho info on the RV6 in my RV6A builders manual), and have concluded that
if it was not done correctly when the plane was built Im SOL. Anybody beeen
able to change it, or tried and couldnt?? charlie heathco
Well,
without starting the war that occured the last time I gave advice on this
subject, outside wear can be caused by either camber, which is normal to
RVs, fix flip tires to wear the other sides,
or toe in, fix for rod gear, oval the retaining bolt holes in the gear
socket. Leave the holes in the gear as it is, but by doing this you can
rotate the gear leg slightly to adjust the toe, then braze fill the unused
portion of each hole and ream to circular.
Mine were factory drilled and they missed by a lot. something like 3deg on
one side and 2.5 on the other. The tires lasted less than 40 hours.
Toe leaves the tires scrubbed laterally, so if you rub your hand one way
across the grooves the corners feel dull and the other way they feel sharp,
possibly with a feathered edge.
the best way to measure is a lasar set on the rim and projected out fore or
aft 100 inches. Measure distance from centerline close to the wheels and
then 100 inches out from there and use trig to see what the angle is.
Project centerline down to the floor using plumbs and mark on tape.
I suggest measuring in the ground attitude as that's where most of the wear
occurs, and I usually do three point, or close to, landings.
Generally no toe is best, and I won't make any further comments lest another
war starts on the subject.
W
Message 7
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| Subject: | FS RV Belt Buckles |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
I have upgraded my site with better pictures and customer comments for your viewing.
Thanks, Glenn -9A fuselage
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users |
--> RV-List message posted by: John DeCuir <jadecuir@comcast.net>
I fly an RV4 with 160hp, FP sensenich. When I bought it from the second
owner, he had replaced the original wood prop with the 72CM, 79" pitch.
Short field performance was outstanding, and climb rate was over 1500
fpm to 7500'. But, when I leveled out, I had to throttle back so far to
keep under redline 2600rpm! I liked to cruise @ 2450 to 2500 rpm, and
my MP would be less than 20" to hold it there, TAS about 150 Kts.
I repitched to the recommended 81", for cruise, as that is 99% of
my flying. Takeoff and climb performance suffered noticeably, but once
the RPM's are up to 2500, she climbs at about 1000 fpm through 7500', @
130 IAS. I've flown in and out of Mammoth Lakes, CA several times this
winter, sometimes @ gross wt., and the low static rpm creates a long
takeoff roll at 7500' elev, but once the rpms come up, she climbs
pretty good to 14,500 for the crossing west.
I don't know how well she'd do in summer heat at gross wt. If I were
going for all-around performance and utility, I think 79", as
vans/sensenich recommend, is the pitch to have.
John DeCuir
N204CP, RV4
Salinas, CA
480 hrs TTAE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: FS RV Belt Buckles |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Please don't make a HRII Rocket buckle available, I'd have to buy at least
four of them. 8*) KABONG
John & Mark (F-1) would more than likely give permission too. They're sooo
easy to get along with...
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: FS RV Belt Buckles
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> I have upgraded my site with better pictures and customer comments for
> your viewing. Thanks, Glenn -9A fuselage
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Charles
Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you will be amazed if you put a better
quality tire on. My 6-A only got 40/50 hrs on the tires Van's supplies,
with
what seemed like abnormal wear on the outside of the tires. Went to
Michelins
and got over 200 .
Do not archive
Dave Mader
2nd 6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil Sisson,
Litchfield Aerobatic Club
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire wear problem resolution
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
Charles Heathco wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
>Im so happy!! I dont really have a problem with my 6a after all. I got an
email replay from vans telling me the tires always wear out on the outside,
thats the way its designed. Wow, and to think, I saw that as a abnormal..
Silly me.. Charlie heathco
>
>
Silly both of us..
Without looking at your posting, just today I was looking at my tire
wear pattern and was wondering why mine were wearing on the
outside...... Hmmmmmmmmm.
PS
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
speaking of michelins, a michelin rep told a bunch of us last year that the Condor
brand is also made by them in the same factory (in tiawan? I forgot that detail)
and that they are designed for abuse such as flight schools. A little
more than Van's type tire but much cheaper than a Mich and almost as much life....
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader"
>
> Charles
> Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you will be amazed if you put a better
> quality tire on. My 6-A only got 40/50 hrs on the tires Van's supplies,
> with
> what seemed like abnormal wear on the outside of the tires. Went to
> Michelins
> and got over 200 .
>
> Do not archive
> Dave Mader
> 2nd 6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil Sisson,
> Litchfield Aerobatic Club
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire wear problem resolution
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
>
>
> Charles Heathco wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco"
> >
> >Im so happy!! I dont really have a problem with my 6a after all. I got an
> email replay from vans telling me the tires always wear out on the outside,
> thats the way its designed. Wow, and to think, I saw that as a abnormal..
> Silly me.. Charlie heathco
> >
> >
>
> Silly both of us..
> Without looking at your posting, just today I was looking at my tire
> wear pattern and was wondering why mine were wearing on the
> outside...... Hmmmmmmmmm.
> PS
>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
speaking of michelins, a michelin rep told a bunch of us last year that the Condor
brand is also made by them in the same factory (in tiawan? I forgot that detail)
and that they are designed for abuse such as flight schools. A little more
than Van's type tire but much cheaper than a Mich and almost as much life....
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <DAVEMADER@BRESNAN.NET>
Charles
Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you will be amazed if you put a better
quality tire on. My 6-A only got 40/50 hrs on the tires Van's supplies,
with
what seemed like abnormal wear on the outside of the tires. Went to
Michelins
and got over 200 .
Do not archive
Dave Mader
2nd 6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil Sisson,
Litchfield Aerobatic Club
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire wear problem resolution
-- RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sis
son, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<SISSON@CONSOLIDATED.NET>
Charles Heathco wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <CHEATHCO@COMCAST.NET>
Im so happy!! I dont really have a problem with my 6a after all. I got an
email replay from vans telling me the tires always wear out on the outside,
thats the way its designed. Wow, and to think, I saw that as a abnormal..
Silly me.. Charlie heathco
Silly both of us..
Without looking at your posting, just today I was looking at my tire
wear pattern and was wondering why mine were wearing on the
outside...... Hmmmmmmmmm.
PS
through the Contributions
://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
I have used CONDOR tires on 3 RV's and been pleased
Doug Preston
RV7 N731RV
Message 13
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| Subject: | Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a@earthlink.net>
ATTENTION ALL---Mark your calendars now for one of the best fly-in Bar-BQ lunch
in the Southeast. We will be serving lunch at noon and there will be coffee
and donuts for the early birds.There is no rain date so come rain or shine, hopefully
shine.
Place----- Loves Landing Airpark, 97FL 130* 21.5 nm from Ocala VOR
N 28*57.42 W 081*53.29
What----- Smoked Bar-BQ pork (takes 2 days), Hamburgers,Hotdogs and all the other
fixns.
When---- Lunch at noon and coffee & donuts for early birds
Price---- $6.00 donation which includes everything
Note---This is a private airpark, land at your own risk.
Ollie Washburn 6A
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
What is the date of the BBQ Ollie?
Doug
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you will be amazed if you put a
better
> quality tire on. My 6-A only got 40/50 hrs on the tires Van's supplies,
> with
> what seemed like abnormal wear on the outside of the tires. Went to
> Michelins
> and got over 200 .
I've been using the el cheapo McCreary Air Hawk tires (what Van's provides
in the finish kit). Like everyone has noted, they wear mostly on the
outboard sides, particularly the left outboard.
First set: rotated at 162 hours, replaced at 212 hours.
Second set: rotated at 374 hours (interesting how that worked out!), still
plenty of treads as of 415 hours.
I figure this 2nd set has another 40-50 hours on 'em easily before they need
to be replaced. You should be able to get 200+ hours on a set of cheap Air
Hawks if you treat 'em gently. I have no doubt that more expensive tires
would be better balanced, would wear less, etc. Worth the extra expense?
Not for me. I'd rather put the extra 100 bucks or whatever into the gas
tank.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Keep recaps in mind too. I use them. They wear longer than original
tread. The flight school at MLB uses recaps and they get used and
abused. NO separation problems so far ...... but that conversation is a
couple of years old.
Linn
do not archive
DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
>
>I have used CONDOR tires on 3 RV's and been pleased
>Doug Preston
>RV7 N731RV
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I wrote down at the time (last year's sun n fun) that the condors were going for
$50. What do the Air Hawks go for new?
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
> > Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you will be amazed if you put a
> better
> > quality tire on. My 6-A only got 40/50 hrs on the tires Van's supplies,
> > with
> > what seemed like abnormal wear on the outside of the tires. Went to
> > Michelins
> > and got over 200 .
>
> I've been using the el cheapo McCreary Air Hawk tires (what Van's provides
> in the finish kit). Like everyone has noted, they wear mostly on the
> outboard sides, particularly the left outboard.
>
> First set: rotated at 162 hours, replaced at 212 hours.
>
> Second set: rotated at 374 hours (interesting how that worked out!), still
> plenty of treads as of 415 hours.
>
> I figure this 2nd set has another 40-50 hours on 'em easily before they need
> to be replaced. You should be able to get 200+ hours on a set of cheap Air
> Hawks if you treat 'em gently. I have no doubt that more expensive tires
> would be better balanced, would wear less, etc. Worth the extra expense?
> Not for me. I'd rather put the extra 100 bucks or whatever into the gas
> tank.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
I wrote down at the time (last year's sun n fun) that the condors were going for
$50. What do the Air Hawks go for new?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <DAN@RVPROJECT.COM>
Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you will be amazed if you put a
better
quality tire on. My 6-A only got 40/50 hrs on the tires Van's supplies,
with
what seemed like abnormal wear on the outside of the tires. Went to
Michelins
and got over 200 .
I've been using the el cheapo McCreary Air Hawk tires (what Van's provides
in the finish kit). Like everyone has noted, they wear mostly on the
outboard sides, particularly the left outboard.
First set: rotated at 162 hours, replaced at 212 hours.
Second set: rotated at 374 hours (interesting how that worked out!), still
plenty of treads
as of 415 hours.
I figure this 2nd set has another 40-50 hours on 'em easily before they need
to be replaced. You should be able to get 200+ hours on a set of cheap Air
Hawks if you treat 'em gently. I have no doubt that more expensive tires
would be better balanced, would wear less, etc. Worth the extra expense?
Not for me. I'd rather put the extra 100 bucks or whatever into the gas
tank.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
ed Information
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I wrote down at the time (last year's sun n fun) that the condors were
going for $50. What do the Air Hawks go for new?
$37.80 from Spruce. Beat that with a stick!
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/mcairhawk.php
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I'll take the condors - what a steal.
You can come pick up my air hawks next time you are on the least coast.
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
> > I wrote down at the time (last year's sun n fun) that the condors were
> going for $50. What do the Air Hawks go for new?
>
> $37.80 from Spruce. Beat that with a stick!
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/mcairhawk.php
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
I'll take the condors - what a steal.
You can come pick up my air hawks next time you are on the least coast.
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <DAN@RVPROJECT.COM>
I wrote down at the time (last year's sun n fun) that the condors were
going for $50. What do the Air Hawks go for new?
$37.80 from Spruce. Beat that with a stick!
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/mcairhawk.php
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
===================================================
Message 20
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| Subject: | Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
I too use re-cap's. Good wear and don't be afraid of re-caps.
Most of the thrown rubber you see on the roads are from new tires.
One advantage it did for me was give me about one half inch more
clearance between my wheel pants and the ground.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire wear problem resolution
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Keep recaps in mind too. I use them. They wear longer than original
tread. The flight school at MLB uses recaps and they get used and
abused. NO separation problems so far ...... but that conversation is a
couple of years old.
Linn
do not archive
DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
>
>I have used CONDOR tires on 3 RV's and been pleased
>Doug Preston
>RV7 N731RV
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a@earthlink.net>
Mar.26th
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: <DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF
> --> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
>
> What is the date of the BBQ Ollie?
> Doug
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
--> RV-List message posted by: "oliver h washburn" <ollie6a@earthlink.net>
>
> Subject: RV-List: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a@earthlink.net>
>
> ATTENTION ALL---Mark your calendars now for one of the best fly-in Bar-BQ
lunch in the Southeast Sat Mar 26th. We will be serving lunch at noon and
there will be coffee and donuts for the early birds.There is no rain date
so come rain or shine, hopefully shine.
>
> Place----- Loves Landing Airpark, 97FL 130* 21.5 nm from Ocala VOR
> N 28*57.42 W 081*53.29
>When---- March 26th
> What----- Smoked Bar-BQ pork (takes 2 days), Hamburgers,Hotdogs and all
the other fixns.
>
> When---- Lunch at noon and coffee & donuts for early birds
>
> Price---- $6.00 donation which includes everything
>
> Note---This is a private airpark, land at your own risk.
>
> Ollie Washburn 6A
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>>I wrote down at the time (last year's sun n fun) that the condors were
>
> going for $50. What do the Air Hawks go for new?
>
> $37.80 from Spruce. Beat that with a stick!
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/mcairhawk.php
Dittos on the Air Hawks. I got them for $38.95 (free shipping) from Desser:
http://www.desser.com
They have a lot of meat out on the shoulders of the tire where our
planes punish them. Flipping tires is standard procedure for maximizing
tire life. Remember, you must remount the tires, not just move them from
one side of the plane to the other.
Be sure you install low-leak tubes while you are at it.
Sam Buchanan
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
I ended up going with 79" pitch today, and it sure seemed to make a new beast out
of the RV - very different and mostly better; easier to stay off the redline
in cruise, and maybe a smidge faster, like around 10 mph indicated ;-) The
dynamic balance took it from .48 IPS down to .03, and you can sure feel that!
Best $450 I ever dropped on that plane since I started riveting 11 years ago
.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: John DeCuir <jadecuir@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users
--> RV-List message posted by: John DeCuir <jadecuir@comcast.net>
I fly an RV4 with 160hp, FP sensenich. When I bought it from the second
owner, he had replaced the original wood prop with the 72CM, 79" pitch.
Short field performance was outstanding, and climb rate was over 1500
fpm to 7500'. But, when I leveled out, I had to throttle back so far to
keep under redline 2600rpm! I liked to cruise @ 2450 to 2500 rpm, and
my MP would be less than 20" to hold it there, TAS about 150 Kts.
I repitched to the recommended 81", for cruise, as that is 99% of
my flying. Takeoff and climb performance suffered noticeably, but once
the RPM's are up to 2500, she climbs at about 1000 fpm through 7500', @
130 IAS. I've flown in and out of Mammoth Lakes, CA several times this
winter, sometimes @ gross wt., and the low static rpm creates a long
takeoff roll at 7500' elev, but once the rpms come up, she climbs
pretty good to 14,500 for the crossing west.
I don't know how well she'd do in summer heat at gross wt. If I were
going for all-around performance and utility, I think 79", as
vans/sensenich recommend, is the pitch to have.
John DeCuir
N204CP, RV4
Salinas, CA
480 hrs TTAE
Message 25
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| Subject: | Teflon hose assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Any thoughts about suitability (reliability/ durability) of flexible Teflon to
connect the fuel tank to selector valve (all or in part)? My issue has to do
with the almost impossible routing of solid -6 aluminum from the tank connection,
through the gear leg fitting, of a trigear Van design, doesn't matter which
one.
A flexible hose would solve that problem.
Mike Holland
Finishing RV9A
Dana Point, CA
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Mike Holland wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Any thoughts about suitability (reliability/ durability) of flexible
> Teflon to connect the fuel tank to selector valve (all or in part)?
> My issue has to do with the almost impossible routing of solid -6
> aluminum from the tank connection, through the gear leg fitting, of a
> trigear Van design, doesn't matter which one.
>
> A flexible hose would solve that problem.
It's been done and it works fine.
Sam Buchanan
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportypilot@stx.rr.com
I choose to go around the leg and it worked out fine, (after screwing up a few
times)
I will have a cover on those leg mounts anyway (thanks to abby at flightline)
the vans route for that tubing is impossible to turn out proper in my book.. its
no wonder 90% of 1st flight failures are fuel related :)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Holland <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Teflon hose assembly
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Any thoughts about suitability (reliability/ durability) of
> flexible Teflon to connect the fuel tank to selector valve (all
> or in part)? My issue has to do with the almost impossible
> routing of solid -6 aluminum from the tank connection, through the
> gear leg fitting, of a trigear Van design, doesn't matter which one.
>
> A flexible hose would solve that problem.
>
> Mike Holland
> Finishing RV9A
> Dana Point, CA
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> =====================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Don't blame it on Vans, you chose the nosewheel. 8
)
Dave
do not archive
>
>I choose to go around the leg and it worked out fine, (after screwing up a few
times)
>I will have a cover on those leg mounts anyway (thanks to abby at flightline)
>the vans route for that tubing is impossible to turn out proper in my book.. its
no wonder 90% of 1st flight failures are fuel related :)
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportypilot@stx.rr.com
Your right!
Insurance issue, and "low time" those two items made it very clear, tail wheels
look
better no doubt, smashed (not landed proper aircraft look much worse than
a nosewheel aircraft :) imho Its a rv9a so give me a break, not like I am
building a 4 or 8 :) but I promise my next plane TD
do not achive
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Teflon hose assembly
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Don't blame it on Vans, you chose the nosewheel. 8
> )
>
> Dave
> do not archive
>
>
> >
> >I choose to go around the leg and it worked out fine, (after
> screwing up a few times)
> >I will have a cover on those leg mounts anyway (thanks to abby at
> flightline)
> >the vans route for that tubing is impossible to turn out proper
> in my book.. its no wonder 90% of 1st flight failures are fuel
> related :)
> >
> >do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> =====================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 03/18 4:51, Mike Holland wrote:
> Any thoughts about suitability (reliability/ durability) of flexible Teflon
to connect the fuel tank to selector valve (all or in part)? My issue has to
do with the almost impossible routing of solid -6 aluminum from the tank connection,
through the gear leg fitting, of a trigear Van design, doesn't matter
which one.
>
> A flexible hose would solve that problem.
I did one line in one piece and the left side in two pieces.
Just make both lines into two pieces and be done with it
in under one hour. Cheaper and lighter than flex hose.
See entry dated 12/1/04
http://www.rv7-a.com/cockpit_3.htm
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I put the aluminum line through the gear mouni in two pieces,that made it
easier and it fit.
Bob Olds
Message 32
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| Subject: | Can't get full aft control deflection |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
Oh wise, sage builders whom have come before me...
May I borrow your assistance please.
After installing the controls tonight, I found that I can't get
full aft deflection on the controls (to the stops) due to a binding
issue with the rod end bearing and the elevator pivot control
horn. Any help and ideas are appreciated.
Text and pictures here.
http://rv7-a.com/lasttenpercent.htm#3/18/05
Thanks,
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
working on the last 10%
Message 33
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|
Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 21:28:34 -0600
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
My tach cable that's about 1" too long. Anyone out there in RV Land know where
I can send it to have it shortened?
Tommy Walker
6A, "Finishing the Finishing"!
Ridgetop, TN
Message 34
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|
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to paint the
interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better access to get
into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled. I'm aware that I would
have to touch up when it's completed but it seems easier to paint now.
Greg
RV8
82070
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
One data point..
I painted mine when the shell was more or less complete with seats and
floorboards. I installed the panel, ran the electrical, and mounted the
wings afterwards. I was careful and didn't have to touch up anything...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: interior paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to
> paint the interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better
> access to get into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled.
> I'm aware that I would have to touch up when it's completed but it seems
> easier to paint now.
>
> Greg
> RV8
> 82070
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Try your local speedometer shop.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tach Cable
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>
> My tach cable that's about 1" too long. Anyone out there in RV Land know
> where I can send it to have it shortened?
>
> Tommy Walker
> 6A, "Finishing the Finishing"!
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Can't get full aft control deflection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I had the exact same problem. You just have to adjust the rod end bearings
so that at full aft travel you wont have that interference. Make sure to
remember to engage enough threads so that if the stop nuts were to back off
and the push rod rotated, the rod end bearings could not possibly come off
the push rod. I cut some tubing and put it between the rod end and push rod
to be extra safe. I know, totally unnecessary but it makes me feel better.
I would disregard the position of the pivot control horn. Start up front
and work your way back.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: RV-List: Can't get full aft control deflection
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> Oh wise, sage builders whom have come before me...
> May I borrow your assistance please.
>
> After installing the controls tonight, I found that I can't get
> full aft deflection on the controls (to the stops) due to a binding
> issue with the rod end bearing and the elevator pivot control
> horn. Any help and ideas are appreciated.
>
> Text and pictures here.
>
> http://rv7-a.com/lasttenpercent.htm#3/18/05
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
> working on the last 10%
>
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 03/18/2005 3:57:05 PM Central Standard Time,
luckymacy@comcast.net writes:
I'll take the condors - what a steal.
>>>
FWIW I snagged a set of the Condor/Michelin Airstop tube sets from Avery-
what a deal! The kit-supplied tires had worn down really bad by 100 hours,
mostly the left outside (bad landings have nothing to do with tire wear!) Now
I
prevent main tire wear by mostly landing on the nosewheel (see recent post!) but
besides that, I'm pretty darn happy with the Condors and because of the
Airstops, WDNNSHIOMWP&DNA!*
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark N51PW
*we don't need no steenking holes in our main wheel pants & do not archive 8-)
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Hi;
My recommendation would be to paint after the interior is largely complete
(baggage side panels, seats, floor, etc.) but before wiring. Putting all the
wiring in and then removing same to paint would be a significant cost in
time and effort.
Depending on what paint method you choose (rattle can or HVLP sprayer) you
are right that it will be probably be easier to do some of the more awkward
places as you proceed rather than leave it all till the end.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: interior paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to
> paint the interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better
> access to get into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled.
> I'm aware that I would have to touch up when it's completed but it seems
> easier to paint now.
>
> Greg
> RV8
> 82070
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
I purchased my kit from a guy who had started the fuselage and had
many of the interior panels, etc. painted and already ready to
assemble (he had built two previously).
I can't imagine doing it any other way. You have to take more care
when you are riveting, but judicious use of duct-tape will protect the
paint from your tools . . . we used PPG Concept Poly for the finish
coat and their self-etching two part primer.
Good Luck
Bob Christensen
RV-8 - N678RC - FWF/Panel/etc.
One Sat, 19 Mar 2005 13:31:56 +1000, Greg@itmack <greg@itmack.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to paint the
interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better access to get
into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled. I'm aware that I would
have to touch up when it's completed but it seems easier to paint now.
>
> Greg
> RV8
> 82070
>
>
>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc.) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "j1j2h3@juno.com" <j1j2h3@juno.com>
Please add my vote to those in favor of this project. I am not a computer guru
but would be pleased to aid in entering data from previous Matronics postings.
When I want to save things from the web site. I copy the text that I
want to save to Microsoft Notepad, then save it as a text file under a file folder
titled "Builder Hints". I have a separate file for each
subject, such as Instruments, Control Panel, Canopy, Landing Gear, etc. When I
am saving something new, I just open the appropriate file and paste the new addition
in. If it is a continuing thread, I will insert it there, instead of
at the end. When doing this, I delete any non relevant verbiage and any repeats
of previous posts, so it ends up considerably condensed. I presently spend
about 1 hour a day doing this and would much rather be working on my plane, but
there is just so much good data here that I feel it is necessary to my learning
process. Having the wiki would eliminate this need and give me more time
to build.
If someone can implement the wiki I will be happy to send them my list of subject
files as a suggested starting point, as well as copies of the files themselves.
My files go back about three years. They are by no means complete, as they
contain only the subjects that I am particularly interested in, but they would
be helpful to a new builder.
I have files separated into about 60 subjects and containing about 7MB of data.
Most is in text form as .txt files, but some is in .pdf and there are also some
photos in .jpg.
I think this thread should be kept on the RV-list for a while, or at least a progress
report listed periodically to help gauge and build interest. Perhaps Matronics
would consider running it on their site as a supplement to their lists.
The following is my condensation of this thread, to show you what my files look
like. The different contributors are separated by ;;;. I generally do not record
names and addresses, unless it is something I want to follow up on in correspondence.
------------------------
Subject: RV-Wiki (was: RV-List: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc.)
Are there any computer gurus on the list that would be willing to set up a wiki?
Would Matt be willing to host one? It's kind of like a dynamic FAQ file.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=wiki&btnG=Google+Search
http://wiki.org/wiki.cgi?WhatIsWiki
Once they are set up, anyone given privileges can alter/add/delete any
info at any time. This might sound chaotic, but the concept seems to
work pretty well. Anyone willing to do so can add info in a much more
concise format so we won't need to wade through dozens or hundreds or
even thousands of emails. The thousands of emails on primer could
probably be condensed to a few dozen overall opinions & have all bases
covered without the info being repeated.
;;;
I hesitate to chime in here ... but I have set up multiple Wikis, and
think they are a fantastic way to share group knowledge. You are right
that they are like a "dynamic FAQ", but are even more free-form than
that .. which brings unique value *if* the Wiki is an active one. If
there is enough interest I might be game to set up a Wiki.
Might there be real interest in this? Or is it one of those "sounds
cool" things that people won't *really* invest time/energy into? My experience
has been that if you get past a certain critical mass of activity, the Wiki can
have real value.
For one (huge) example of what a Wiki-like site can do, take a look at
http://www.wikipedia.com ... a dynamic group-effort online encyclopedia.
This is an amazing resource on the web, whether *we* decide we want a
Wiki .. or not.
;;;
I agree that a wiki is a good way to do it, and I know of some
experienced builders (and experts in related fields) who have indicated a willingness
to participate in such a project. I have been approached by them before
but, not having any experience with setting up a wiki myself, I haven't pursued
it. I'd really like to see this go ahead, though, and I would be happy to
help if I can. I would also be willing to host the wiki, if that helps.
;;;
I think it is a great idea, and would add a lot of value to the RV community.
I would be happy to contribute where I can.
;;;
I think having experienced builders (and other experts) willing to join
in and participate is _precicely_ the critical factor that has to be
taken into consideration. Without knowledgable input the site would be
worthless. If you have folks who have expressed interest, then I'm game
to (can I be saying this? don't I have enough to do already?) set things up. I'd
offer to provide some content ... but ... I'm still learning, and do not feel
like much of a "teacher" yet. Maybe with time and experience I can have something
to contribute. :) But I can do "geek stuff", and to that end can contribute.
I think hosting isn't the big limitation. Reasonable commercial hosting
can be had these days for about $10/month. HOWEVER, the big help that you could
contribute is in helping create and organize content. Maybe I should go ahead
and snag a domain (rvwiki.org??) and set something up .. and we can use the
wiki itself to organize getting the wiki organized. If that makes sense. :) Here
is the thing I like about a wiki .. and it is the same thing that is driving
WikiPedia. It sounds like chaos having anyone and his brother just putting stuff
in willy-nilly. And, in the begining it is chaos to a certain degree. However,
over time as more and more people ead/use/revie
w the wiki you get errors (and hopefully stupidity, urban legands, and old wives
tales) massaged out. In time, the most critical and high-interest items become
accurate BECAUSE they are critical and high-interest. Or that is the theory.
Seems to be working for WikiPedia so far. Does this make sense? Should we take
this discussion off-list so we don't bore all the folks who don't want to
hear geek-planning-talk?
;;;
If you guys are serious about setting up a wiki I could potentially host it on the existing www.rivetbangers.com server/site. I think it would fold in well with the current support info, document share, etc that is currently in use. Is there any interest in that?
;;;
There might well be a good fit here. A lot would depend upon available
resources on the host site. Ideally it would be a Linux based system
with support for PHP and MySQL. Can you shoot me (off-list, so we don't
bore the good folks here with geek-details) information about the host
environment? Even if we don't co-host the services I think there is a lot of synergy
and linking between the two could well make a lot of sense. Lets keep this
possibility in mind as we figure out what we want to do.
-----------------------------------
Jim Hasper
Franklin, TN
RV7 - Just starting empennage (giving new meaning to the term slow-build)
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<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | FOR SALE: RV-7[A] tail kit + tools |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm posting this for Jay Zuckerman, who is selling his RV-7[A] tail kit and
his tool kit. Here's a photo:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/jay_zuckerman.jpg
Details from Jay below...
)_( Dan
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
For Sale: Tail Kit for RV 7. Inventoried but no assembly started. All
Van's Manuals and Blueprints. Complete set of top quality new aircraft
assembly tools, from Avery and Clear Tools. No Chinese stuff! Also full
set of "How To Build" video tapes for the RV. Almost everything you need to
build your RV. Over $5000 invested. Divorce derailed my aspirations to
build the plane for now. Everything for $4000. Contact Jay Zuckerman at
jsz206@citlink.net or call 435-260-2763. Complete inventory of tools and
photographs available upon request.
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