Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Re: Air in brake line (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
2. 02:12 AM - Re: Air in brake line (Gary Zilik)
3. 03:03 AM - Re: Air in brake line (R.A.S)
4. 07:42 AM - removing filler (Brian Kraut)
5. 09:06 AM - Re: removing filler (Rick Galati)
6. 10:08 AM - Re: removing filler (rv6n6r@comcast.net)
7. 10:43 AM - Re: Air in brake line (Dave Bristol)
8. 10:49 AM - Re: Re: removing filler (Terry Watson)
9. 01:16 PM - Re: private airport (Brian Kraut)
10. 01:16 PM - Re: Re: removing filler (Brian Kraut)
11. 03:59 PM - Re: removing filler (Sterling)
12. 04:05 PM - Re: Reaming vs Drilling (Hal Kempthorne)
13. 04:14 PM - Re;Vibration/Landol Ring (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
14. 04:37 PM - Re: Reaming vs Drilling (Allen Fulmer)
15. 04:50 PM - Re: Reaming vs Drilling (Brian Denk)
16. 05:09 PM - B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary (jbker@juno.com)
17. 05:29 PM - Re: removing filler (rv6n6r@comcast.net)
18. 06:07 PM - Re: B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary (Dean)
19. 06:22 PM - Re: removing filler (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
20. 06:24 PM - spare ELT connector (LUCKYMACY@comcast.net (lucky))
21. 06:24 PM - Re: Re: removing filler (Olen Goodwin)
22. 06:35 PM - Baffle spring go "BOING" (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
23. 08:07 PM - Re: B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary (James E. Clark)
24. 10:49 PM - Re: spare ELT connector (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
HCRV6@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 3/25/05 4:20:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>PeterHunt1@aol.com writes:
>
>
>
>><<I just filled my dual (pilot and passenger) brake system and have a one
>>inch
>>air bubble in one of the crossover tubes>>
>>
>>
>
>Pete: I initially had the same size bubble at the top of one of the
>crossover tubes. I re-bled the brakes twice trying to get it out and finally
said
>the heck with it because the brakes were rock solid. After 50 hours the
>bubble has gotten smaller (?) and the brakes work fine.
>
>Harry Crosby
>RV-6, 50+ hours
>
>
That was exactly my case also, Harry. I got to thinking that if I had
Aeroquip hoses for the crossover lines, or anywhere there is aluminum
tubing used, I would not see the bubble if it were present, and I would
think there was no air since my peddals are also solid.
When looking at it while applying brakes, it nearly disappears. I would
get as much out as I could and test the holding power.
Phil in Ilinois
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
If the brakes are plumbed as per vans instructions the air in the
crossover line is on the low pressure side for the pilot brakes and will
not effect operation unless it finds it's way into the master cylinder.
It is a different story for the pax brakes. This bubble lies between the
pax master cylinder and the brake caliper and will cause sponginess
Gary
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "R.A.S" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi All,
the tread of your brake reservoir fits a AN-4 fitting. flare a bit of pipe
and put a fitting on one end, bend it 180 degress and put a jar under the
other end. You can now safely pump brake fluid through the system from the
bottom until all air is out.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air in brake line
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> On 03/25 7:17, PeterHunt1@aol.com wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
> >
> > I just filled my dual (pilot and passenger) brake system and have a one
inch
> > air bubble in one of the crossover tubes. Peddles feel solid, but it
seems to
> > me all air should be out of the system. I know there is a discussion
in the
> > archives, but I just cannot find it. What say you?
>
> Keep pumping those brakes while you pump fluid into the line at
> the wheel. Can be done by one person, but easier with two.
> Eventually, they all come out. You just need a way to siphon
> the extra fluid out of the reservoir as you pump fluid in to
> keep from overflowing...
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
I have a plane taht was mostly built by a previous builder. He tried to use
some type of filler (don't know what kind) on some of the rivet holes. It
is nearly impossible to sand it down without sanding into the skin and it
would look funny with some of the rivet lines hidden and some showing. Does
anyone have any suggestions for getting this filler off? Acetone does
nothing to it. I have not tried paint remover yet, but an auto body shop
told me that doesn't work on Bondo and I suspect it won't work on this
either. Obviously, I need something that won't hurt the aluminum.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | re: removing filler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Brian,
Having never faced such a situation, I too would be scratching my head for a possible
fix. At first blush, what I would try in an attempt to dissolve the unknown
body filler is to marinate a row of filled rivets over time with a cotton
shop towel soaked through with MEK. How long is anybody's guess. Needless to
say, MEK will turn your brain cells to mush so I would take every possible precaution
to avoid any exposure to its extremely dangerous fumes. I would not use
MEK on the rivets on the fuel tanks though. Prolonged exposure might allow the
MEK to leach under the rivet heads and attack proseal. I wouldn't want to find
out. Anyway, this approach would be Plan A for me. Hopefully, another lister
will help you discover a much better and safer way to solve this problem.
Perhaps another approach would be to somehow use heat and/or vibration. Good
luck.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finished, not yet flying"
Message 6
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| Subject: | re: removing filler |
0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
1.78 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS3 From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
How about a different approach: find or make some kind of a tool that will score
a circular groove in the bondo -- something like a grommet punch or similar
that has a circular cutting head the exact diameter of the outside of a rivet
that you can just give a little turn by hand (being careful to not score the metal
of course!) on each rivet head, and you have your "rivet line" back.
IMHO worrying about this is bordering a bit on the obsessive side, but then I'm
not one to talk... :-}
Randall Henderson
RV-6
How about a different approach: find or make some kind of a tool that will score
a circular groove in the bondo --something like a grommet punch or similar that
has a circular cutting head the exact diameter of the outside of a rivet that
you can just give a little turn by hand (being careful to not score the metal
of course!) on each rivet head, and you have your "rivet line" back.
IMHO worrying about this is bordering a bit on the obsessive side, but then I'm
not one to talk... :-}
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
It also helps to put a small amount of suction on the reservoir while
you're pumping at the wheel. A (long) hose connected at the filler hole
with someone sucking on it helps dramatically, it even works with the
upside down master cylinders. But, be careful, you don't want that stuff
in your mouth!
Dave B -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Walter Tondu wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
>On 03/25 7:17, PeterHunt1@aol.com wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
> >
> > I just filled my dual (pilot and passenger) brake system and have a one inch
> > air bubble in one of the crossover tubes. Peddles feel solid, but it seems
to
> > me all air should be out of the system. I know there is a discussion in the
> > archives, but I just cannot find it. What say you?
>
>Keep pumping those brakes while you pump fluid into the line at
>the wheel. Can be done by one person, but easier with two.
>Eventually, they all come out. You just need a way to siphon
>the extra fluid out of the reservoir as you pump fluid in to
>keep from overflowing...
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | re: removing filler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
There is an idea in Andy's 24 Years of RVator by Stan Van Grunsven about
shaving rivet heads that might apply. He used stainless shim stock (very
thin) to protect the adjacent skin while filing down protruding rivet heads.
Terry
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Much thanks to everyone that replied to my post. I forwarded them all to my
friend and he really appreciated all the help.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | re: removing filler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually have
filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and 1/16" high in
the center. I could live with the hidden rivets, but after a shiney coat of
paint I am going to have lumps instead of rivets.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
rv6n6r@comcast.net
Subject: RV-List: re: removing filler
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
How about a different approach: find or make some kind of a tool that will
score a circular groove in the bondo -- something like a grommet punch or
similar that has a circular cutting head the exact diameter of the outside
of a rivet that you can just give a little turn by hand (being careful to
not score the metal of course!) on each rivet head, and you have your "rivet
line" back.
IMHO worrying about this is bordering a bit on the obsessive side, but then
I'm not one to talk... :-}
Randall Henderson
RV-6
How about a different approach: find or make some kind of a tool that will
score a circular groove in the bondo --something like a grommet punch or
similar that has a circular cutting head the exact diameter of the outside
of a rivet that you can just give a little turn by hand (being careful to
not score the metal of course!) on each rivet head, and you have your "rivet
line" back.
IMHO worrying about this is bordering a bit on the obsessive side, but then
I'm not one to talk... :-}
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: removing filler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sterling" <sterling@pgrb.com>
I love the smell of MEK in the morning, reminds me of ...
But, I have had fairly good luck removing filler using dry ice on a hot
summer day. I parked my airplane in the hot Texas sun for about 30 minutes
and then I used a square block of dry ice placed directly on the surface of
the wing where the rivets were cosmetically covered. After a short time, the
filler cracked and it made it easier to peel away. Not knowing if your
rivets had a slury of micro balloons and expoxy or Bondo won't help, but my
filler seemed to be micro balloons. I think Bondo is more flexible and my
"trick" might not work on something other than micor balloons and an epoxy
base.
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
5TA6 San Antonio Sectional
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: removing filler
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> I have a plane taht was mostly built by a previous builder. He tried to
use
> some type of filler (don't know what kind) on some of the rivet holes. It
> is nearly impossible to sand it down without sanding into the skin and it
> would look funny with some of the rivet lines hidden and some showing.
Does
> anyone have any suggestions for getting this filler off? Acetone does
> nothing to it. I have not tried paint remover yet, but an auto body shop
> told me that doesn't work on Bondo and I suspect it won't work on this
> either. Obviously, I need something that won't hurt the aluminum.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Reaming vs Drilling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Reaming a drilled hole makes the hole diameter more precise and more uniform.
By all means do it when engineering calls it out. For rivet holes, it is surely
a waste of time. The mashed in rivet conforms to all irregularities in a drilled
hole.
In manufacturing any product, it is important to strike balance between cost (time
spent is a cost!) and quality. Quality is a difficult concept to understand
completely. Reaming the rivet hole, for example, really doesn't add to the
quality of the product but it does add to the cost. Other examples could be
drawn where the quality is actually improved but the cost is too high. One I
think others will agree with is the use of one piece wing skins (on the RV6 at
least) which gives a nicer appearing wing but at a high cost.
Drill and rivet and get on with it, Mike. You have a long ways to go to fly and
you don't want to burn out on the way.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a - 150hrs & 3 trip to OSH
PRB (California)
MLWynn@aol.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
I briefly saw (and now can't find) a little blurb on the idea of using a #40
reamer to enlarge rivet holes in pre-punched parts as opposed to using a #40
drill. The notion was that there is less chatter, rounder hole, less need to
deburr. Anyone had any experience with this or know the source of the reamer?
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re;Vibration/Landol Ring |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Sorry , but that was before my time: and I'm older than dirt !!
Some of us are limited as to what we can play with by cost. I have always
wanted to fly a bigger / better taildragger like a DC-3 , but once again,we
poor folks can't afford those toys.
I'm glad you had the experience and I'm envious.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Reaming vs Drilling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
I am using a reamer just because the arguments for it sounded reasonable.
Don't think it is any more time consuming than using a drill. Got several
size reamers from Cleveland Tools I think.
Don't really think it makes any difference in the outcome.
HTH,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings (QB Fuse on hand)
N808AF reserved
Alexander City, AL
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
>>Reaming a drilled hole makes the hole diameter more precise and more
uniform. By all means do it when engineering calls it >>out. For rivet
holes, it is surely a waste of time. The mashed in rivet conforms to all
irregularities in a drilled hole.
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
>>Hi all,
>>I briefly saw (and now can't find) a little blurb on the idea of using a
#40
>>reamer to enlarge rivet holes in pre-punched parts as opposed to using a
#40
>>drill. The notion was that there is less chatter, rounder hole, less need
to
>>deburr. Anyone had any experience with this or know the source of the
reamer?
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Reaming vs Drilling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi all,
>
>I briefly saw (and now can't find) a little blurb on the idea of using a
>#40
>reamer to enlarge rivet holes in pre-punched parts as opposed to using a
>#40
>drill. The notion was that there is less chatter, rounder hole, less need
>to
>deburr. Anyone had any experience with this or know the source of the
>reamer?
I'm in the middle of doing my taxes. To be reamed is normal this time of
year.
*rimshot*
Standard twist drill use is fine for riveting the bazillions of holes in an
RV. Don't obsess over it. Open 'em up, knock off the burrs as needed,
rivet and move on. It's not a Swiss watch.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 16
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| Subject: | B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jbker@juno.com" <jbker@juno.com>
N19VX took to the air for first flight on Thursday with two more today. Airplane
flys fine and engine is performing, oil cooler (which provides 40% cooling in
a rotary) is working fine. Coolant temps are running higher than desired.
It has been very educational installing an alternate engine. Thanks to Tracy Crook
for all his pioneering that has made it practical for a novice to do it. The
rotary list has been very helpful also.
The engine is a 13B built up for aero-conversion by Bruce Turrentine. Tracy gearbox,
electronic control,exhaust, and engine monitor. Fred Breeze built the engnie
mount.
A very understanding wife, Vans, and many others have pitched in to bring it to
this point.
Bernie, hoping to fly it to Lakeland (inside my flyoff zone :>)
Message 17
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| Subject: | re: removing filler |
0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
1.78 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS3 From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
> The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually
> have filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and
> 1/16" high in the center. I could live with the hidden rivets,
> but after a shiney coat of paint I am going to have lumps instead
> of rivets.
Bummer. Well the only thing I have to add then is to be careful... if you try to
get it off with something that doesn't work, you're probably stuck HAVING to
get it off since then you'll have bondo that's likely been weakened or infused
with some substance that will reject the paint.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually
have filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and
1/16" high in the center. I could live with the hidden rivets,
but after a shiney coat of paint I am going to have lumps instead
of rivets.
Bummer. Well the only thing I have to add then is to be careful... if you try to
get it off with something that doesn't work, you're probably stuck HAVING to
get it off since then you'll have bondo that's likely been weakened or infused
withsome substance that will reject the paint.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Bernie
Congratulations on adding another flying rotary to the growing list. Please
keep the flight reports coming. It gives encouragement to those of us
following in your footsteps.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish 13B NA
----- Original Message -----
From: <jbker@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary
> --> RV-List message posted by: "jbker@juno.com" <jbker@juno.com>
>
>
> N19VX took to the air for first flight on Thursday with two more today.
Airplane flys fine and engine is performing, oil cooler (which provides 40%
cooling in a rotary) is working fine. Coolant temps are running higher than
desired.
>
> It has been very educational installing an alternate engine. Thanks to
Tracy Crook for all his pioneering that has made it practical for a novice
to do it. The rotary list has been very helpful also.
>
> The engine is a 13B built up for aero-conversion by Bruce Turrentine.
Tracy gearbox, electronic control,exhaust, and engine monitor. Fred Breeze
built the engnie mount.
>
> A very understanding wife, Vans, and many others have pitched in to bring
it to this point.
>
> Bernie, hoping to fly it to Lakeland (inside my flyoff zone :>)
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: removing filler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 03/26/2005 9:43:58 AM Central Standard Time,
brian.kraut@engalt.com writes:
Obviously, I need something that won't hurt the aluminum.
>>>
Possibly try a very fine wire brush wheel in your Dremel tool? I'd try it on
a less seen area first, tho...
Mark - do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | spare ELT connector |
--> RV-List message posted by: LUCKYMACY@comcast.net (lucky)
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to complete
the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about how one has to order
a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from time to time.
I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I vaguely remember
him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular telephone connector but
the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to complete
the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about howone has to order
a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from time to time.
I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I vaguely remember him
selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular telephone connector but the
wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: re: removing filler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin@comcast.net>
I missed the early posts here....do you have any idea what kind of filler it
is? If it's polyester (bondo) type, some paint removers will lift it. If
it's epoxy based, you're pretty much out of luck for chemical removal. If
you're mostly concerned with the bumps, you could carefully sand it with a
block and fine sandpaper. I'd start with about 220 wet or dry auto
sandpaper and when you get close, go to 320 or so. Is the filler on bare
aluminum or is the metal primed? If you block it and stop as soon as you
start seeing metal, that's probably the best you can hope for. I'd be
worried about damaging the aluminum if you try to remove it all by sanding.
The block sanding will eliminate the bumps, anyway.
Good luck on it. I think you can get rid of the bumps if you're careful,
anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: re: removing filler
> --> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
>
> > The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually
> > have filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and
> > 1/16" high in the center. I could live with the hidden rivets,
> > but after a shiney coat of paint I am going to have lumps instead
> > of rivets.
>
> Bummer. Well the only thing I have to add then is to be careful... if you
try to get it off with something that doesn't work, you're probably stuck
HAVING to get it off since then you'll have bondo that's likely been
weakened or infused with some substance that will reject the paint.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
> The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually
> have filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and
> 1/16" high in the center. I could live with the hidden rivets,
> but after a shiney coat of paint I am going to have lumps instead
> of rivets.
>
> Bummer. Well the only thing I have to add then is to be careful... if you
try to get it off with something that doesn't work, you're probably stuck
HAVING to get it off since then you'll have bondo that's likely been
weakened or infused withsome substance that will reject the paint.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Baffle spring go "BOING" |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy folks-
Yanked the cover off one of my plenums this afternoon and discovered a broke
spring on one of my intercylinder baffles- the top of the spring broke right
at the hook. Can I just rebend the end of the spring (still about 1-1/2" of
straight wire above the coil) or do I need to replace the dang $pring?
Thanks!
Mark Phillips
Message 23
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| Subject: | B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Congrats Bernie!
I hope the "component" from Patty and me is working fine. :-)
Also **REALLY** hope to see you at SnF.
James
(in Columbia, SC)
{SNIP}
| Subject: RV-List: B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary
|
| --> RV-List message posted by: "jbker@juno.com" <jbker@juno.com>
|
|
| N19VX took to the air for first flight on Thursday with two more today.
| Airplane flys fine and engine is performing, oil cooler (which provides
| 40% cooling in a rotary) is working fine. Coolant temps are running
| higher than desired.
|
| It has been very educational installing an alternate engine. Thanks to
| Tracy Crook for all his pioneering that has made it practical for a
| novice to do it. The rotary list has been very helpful also.
|
| The engine is a 13B built up for aero-conversion by Bruce Turrentine.
| Tracy gearbox, electronic control,exhaust, and engine monitor. Fred
| Breeze built the engnie mount.
|
| A very understanding wife, Vans, and many others have pitched in to bring
| it to this point.
|
| Bernie, hoping to fly it to Lakeland (inside my flyoff zone :>)
|
|
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | spare ELT connector |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Lucky,
You are right, it's just a plain old ordinary Phone connector, but the
wiring is "crossed over" from end to end. You can use a regular phone
jack/cable, but you need to make sure it's wired up correctly. I don't
carry spares, because most of us have a pile of them in the junk drawers at
home.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: RV-List: spare ELT connector
--> RV-List message posted by: LUCKYMACY@comcast.net (lucky)
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about how one has to
order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from
time to time. I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I
vaguely remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular
telephone connector but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about howone has to
order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from
time to time. I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I
vaguely remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular
telephone connector but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
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