Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:31 AM - Re: Baffle spring go "BOING" (Bob Perkinson)
2. 12:34 AM - Re: Re: removing filler (Bob Perkinson)
3. 04:20 AM - Re: spare ELT connector (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 04:25 AM - Re: spare ELT connector (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
5. 06:24 AM - Re: spare ELT connector (David Burton)
6. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: removing filler (Jeff Dowling)
7. 08:58 AM - Re: removing filler (Brian Kraut)
8. 10:59 AM - Re: spare ELT connector (HCRV6@aol.com)
9. 11:27 AM - NACA Ducts and RTV (Matt Jurotich)
10. 11:52 AM - Navaid GPS tracking works! (HCRV6@aol.com)
11. 11:59 AM - Handheld Radio (Ed Holyoke)
12. 12:03 PM - Re: NACA Ducts and RTV (Richard Dudley)
13. 12:47 PM - N194TC First Flight (Tim Coldenhoff)
14. 01:12 PM - Re: Handheld Radio (Bob C.)
15. 01:12 PM - Re: NACA Ducts and RTV (Vanremog@aol.com)
16. 01:55 PM - RCA connector and intercom connection (Dana Overall)
17. 02:01 PM - Riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer: rivet length (MLWynn@aol.com)
18. 02:23 PM - Re: Riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer: rivet length (Kevin Horton)
19. 03:14 PM - Re: RCA connector and intercom connection (James E. Clark)
20. 03:34 PM - Re: N194TC First Flight (Charles Rowbotham)
21. 03:43 PM - Re: NACA Ducts and RTV (James H Nelson)
22. 03:43 PM - Re: Handheld Radio (James H Nelson)
23. 04:38 PM - Re: Handheld Radio (linn walters)
24. 05:15 PM - Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have (Doug Rozendaal)
25. 05:18 PM - Re: Handheld Radio (Larry Bowen)
26. 05:36 PM - Re: Riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer: rivet length (Mark Grieve)
27. 05:48 PM - Wooden gear-leg stiffeners (Shirley Harding)
28. 06:08 PM - Re: Handheld Radio (Darrell Reiley)
29. 06:09 PM - Re: NACA Ducts and RTV (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
30. 06:11 PM - Re: NACA Ducts and RTV (Abwaldal@aol.com)
31. 06:15 PM - Re: NACA Ducts and RTV (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
32. 06:26 PM - Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
33. 06:30 PM - Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners (Kyle Boatright)
34. 06:41 PM - Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners (Ed Anderson)
35. 07:28 PM - Re: Handheld Radio (smoothweasel@juno.com)
36. 07:34 PM - Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners (RV6 Flyer)
37. 07:41 PM - Currency, was Autopilot to...... (Doug Rozendaal)
38. 08:08 PM - Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners (Jeff Dowling)
39. 08:36 PM - Alclad Scratch--Prime? (MLWynn@aol.com)
40. 09:18 PM - Re: Alclad Scratch--Prime? (Richard E. Tasker)
41. 11:40 PM - Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners (Jeff Point)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Baffle spring go "BOING" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Mark,
The spring will do just fine if you form another loop in it. don't over bend
it and use a small cut off wheel to dress the fractured end of the wire. I
would keep a check on it, as if it broke once it may break again. It could
be that the metal in the wire is extremely brittle, which caused the end to
break of in the first place.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
Howdy folks-
Yanked the cover off one of my plenums this afternoon and discovered a broke
spring on one of my intercylinder baffles- the top of the spring broke right
at the hook. Can I just rebend the end of the spring (still about 1-1/2" of
straight wire above the coil) or do I need to replace the dang $pring?
Thanks!
Mark Phillips
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | re: removing filler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
If you can find someone in your area that does (sand Blasting) using C02 as
the abrasive substance, it would remove the filler , paint and anything
else, and leave the aluminum unharmed.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: spare ELT connector |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Hi Lucky,
Find someone who works for the phone company. They have the connectors and
the tool (its kind of like a crimper) to reinstall the connector. You could
probably go up to a crew working out of a phone company truck with your cable
and get them to install the connector. Just be sure to have the old one
along, so they can get it the same. If its already in the plane, you may have
to beg.
do not archive
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Getting painted)
ps. Same answer for your second question also. ;-) I notice that other
comcast.net users send their messages twice, too.
In a message dated 3/26/05 9:24:57 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
LUCKYMACY@comcast.net writes:
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about how one has to
order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from time
to time. I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I vaguely
remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular telephone
connector but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about howone has to
order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from time
to
time. I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I vaguely
remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular telephone connector
but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | spare ELT connector |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
thanks. i now remember saving the piece I cut off with an inch of wire so that
I could remember the ordering it. Now to find it!
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"
>
> Hi Lucky,
>
> You are right, it's just a plain old ordinary Phone connector, but the
> wiring is "crossed over" from end to end. You can use a regular phone
> jack/cable, but you need to make sure it's wired up correctly. I don't
> carry spares, because most of us have a pile of them in the junk drawers at
> home.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: spare ELT connector
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: LUCKYMACY@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
> complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
>
> I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about how one has to
> order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from
> time to time. I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I
> vaguely remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular
> telephone connector but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
>
> help...
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
> I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
> complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
>
> I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about howone has to
> order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from
> time to time. I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I
> vaguely remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular
> telephone connector but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
>
> help...
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
>
>
>
>
>
thanks. i now remember saving the piece I cut off with an inch of wire so that
I could remember the ordering it. Now to find it!
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <STEIN@STEINAIR.COM>
Hi Lucky,
You are right, it's just a plain old ordinary Phone connector, but the
wiring is "crossed over" from end to end. You can use a regular phone
jack/cable, but you need to make sure it's wired up correctly. I don't
carry spares, because most of us have a pile of them in the junk drawers at
home.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky
To: RV-List
Subject: RV-List: spare ELT connector
-- RV-List message posted by: LUCKYMACY@comcast.net (lucky)
I cut my ELT
wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about how one has to
order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from
time to time. I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I
vaguely remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular
telephone connector but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about howone has to
order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from
time to time. I looked over Stein's web site
too with no luck though I
vaguely remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular
telephone connector but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: spare ELT connector |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Radio Shack sells the tool and connectors for about $10, at least when I
last bought one. The connectors are clear on many of the phone cords so you
can see the order of the wires. If yours is not clear just put a half twist
in the cable and squeeze a connector on. You can check the pin-outs with an
ohm meter. I find the easiest way to avoid making a mistake installing a
connector (if both ends have a clear connector) is to place both connectors
side by side pointing the same direction with both locking tabs up and check
the wire colors. Same order = reversed or non-phone standard, opposite
order = straight through.
Have fun!
Dave Burton
RV6 near Seattle
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: re: removing filler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I know this sounds like a lot of work but no one has mentioned biting the
bullet and drilling out the old rivets. How many would you have to remove
and where are they located? It may be the quickest fix and you wouldn't
have to wonder if you damaged the skin when scraping the goop off.
Another option is to fill the symmetrical rivets. I dont think the filler
holds up though in rivets.
Good luck
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
fwiw, I also bought a previously started rv and know what you're going
through.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: re: removing filler
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
>
> If you can find someone in your area that does (sand Blasting) using C02
> as
> the abrasive substance, it would remove the filler , paint and anything
> else, and leave the aluminum unharmed.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A N658RP Reserved
> If nothing changes
> Nothing changes
>
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Well, it turns out that paint remover took it right off. I don't think it
woould work for every filler, but it was fine for what I had.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sterling
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing filler
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sterling" <sterling@pgrb.com>
I love the smell of MEK in the morning, reminds me of ...
But, I have had fairly good luck removing filler using dry ice on a hot
summer day. I parked my airplane in the hot Texas sun for about 30 minutes
and then I used a square block of dry ice placed directly on the surface of
the wing where the rivets were cosmetically covered. After a short time, the
filler cracked and it made it easier to peel away. Not knowing if your
rivets had a slury of micro balloons and expoxy or Bondo won't help, but my
filler seemed to be micro balloons. I think Bondo is more flexible and my
"trick" might not work on something other than micor balloons and an epoxy
base.
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
5TA6 San Antonio Sectional
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: removing filler
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> I have a plane taht was mostly built by a previous builder. He tried to
use
> some type of filler (don't know what kind) on some of the rivet holes. It
> is nearly impossible to sand it down without sanding into the skin and it
> would look funny with some of the rivet lines hidden and some showing.
Does
> anyone have any suggestions for getting this filler off? Acetone does
> nothing to it. I have not tried paint remover yet, but an auto body shop
> told me that doesn't work on Bondo and I suspect it won't work on this
> either. Obviously, I need something that won't hurt the aluminum.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: spare ELT connector |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/26/05 6:24:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
LUCKYMACY@comcast.net writes:
> <<you can use a regular telephone connector but the wire ordering changes
> from one end to the other? >>
Yes to the first part and sometimes to the second. No big deal. If the ELT
doesn't work just whack the connector off and put on another with the wires
reversed (go ahead and ask me how I know).
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 51 hours.
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | NACA Ducts and RTV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Has anyone "glued" the NACA ducts (for the cockpit air vents) on a 6A using
just RTV? If so, are you satisfied? If satisfied which specific brand RTV
did you use and what technique did you use? If this sounds dumb so be
it. I didn't build it so there are many things of which I am ignorant. An
archives search did not answer my questions. Thanks in advance.
Matthew M. Jurotich
e-mail mailto: mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Navaid GPS tracking works! |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
I guess I should feel dumb but I'm so tickled that my Navaid now tracks a GPS
course like it is glued to it. Thanks to Dan, John and Jeff and anyone else
who prompted me all I had to do was go to the Main Menu on my Garmin 195 and
turn on the NMEA data output. So simple and yet so important, and not
mentioned anywhere in the instructions.
Man, this list is GREAT!
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 51 hours
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Howdy,
Polling the list for opinions on handheld transceivers. Our Terra(ble)
is getting reviews of "Scratchy" and the range of intelligible
transmissions is going down. I wouldn't care so much except that my wife
and I are leaving for the right coast next Friday and I don't want to
get caught short.
Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard (Yaesu) or
JRC radios?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Mat,
Although I didn't use RTV, I used Proseal effectively. I would guess
that RTV would also work. The contact area is fairly significant and the
parts are very light. Though the plane has only 13 hours on it, the
ducts were glued several years ago.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Matt Jurotich wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
>
>Has anyone "glued" the NACA ducts (for the cockpit air vents) on a 6A using
>just RTV? If so, are you satisfied? If satisfied which specific brand RTV
>did you use and what technique did you use? If this sounds dumb so be
>it. I didn't build it so there are many things of which I am ignorant. An
>archives search did not answer my questions. Thanks in advance.
>
>Matthew M. Jurotich
>
>e-mail mailto: mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov
>phone : 301-286-5919
>fax : 301-286-7021
>
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | N194TC First Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Howdy all!
March 27, 2005
At approximately 9am Arizona time, N194TC bored a hole in the
sky above Glendale airport (KGEU) and executed a nearly perfect
first flight.
N194TC is an RV-9a, s/n 90338 and is powered by an Eggenfellner
Subaru 2.5L normally aspirated engine running 100LL. The plane
is equipped for day/night VFR and has an MT electric c/s prop.
The left wing is only very slightly heavy. Otherwise, there are
no squawks. The engine and prop ran smooth with not one hiccup
in the entire RPM range.
I have put a detailed story with some pictures on my web site at:
http://rv9a.deru.com
The project took a total of four years - 1600+ hours of shop
time from first rivet to first flight.
Thanks to everyone for all of your help over the years!
--
Tim Coldenhoff
RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
http://rv9a.deru.com
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Ed,
I have an Icom A23 . . . It's reasonably easy to run and works fine.
They have a comm only version, I believe it's the A5 . . . the VOR
part of the A23 is not that great, but I suppose it would be better
than nothing in a pinch. I bought mine at OSH in 2003 and you could
buy an A23 for more or less the same price as an A5.
Good Luck,
Bob
On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 11:58:34 -0800, Ed Holyoke <bicyclop@pacbell.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Howdy,
>
> Polling the list for opinions on handheld transceivers. Our Terra(ble)
> is getting reviews of "Scratchy" and the range of intelligible
> transmissions is going down. I wouldn't care so much except that my wife
> and I are leaving for the right coast next Friday and I don't want to
> get caught short.
>
> Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard (Yaesu) or
> JRC radios?
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/27/2005 11:28:17 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov writes:
Has anyone "glued" the NACA ducts (for the cockpit air vents) on a 6A using
just RTV?
===========================
Use Proseal.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RCA connector and intercom connection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Dumb question #31259775-89870..................790884
Got my DVD player and LCD screen installed with video playing on th screen.
The audio coming out of the DVD player is an RCA connector. The AUX or MP3
input for the intercom are R/L one wire deals. How the heck do I connect
the RCA to one wire???
Got video............need sound.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer: rivet length |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
I am at the step of riveting HS 609PP to HS-603: the bars to the channel.
The plans call for AD4704-6 rivets. After clecoing the structure together, I
put a rivet through. It is too short, based on what the manual and Sportaire
folks say. In theory, you should have 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet out
before you squeeze it. The -6 rivet puts out a tiny bit more than 4/32nds. A
4-7 rivet gives me a tiny bit over 6/32nds. By the book, I should be using
the -7 rivets as I should have 6/32nds of rivet at the shop end prior to
squeeze. Not a lot of them came with the kit, so I am fairly sure this is not
what
Van's had in mind. I cannot believe that I have 1/16th thick primer on these
parts. Any thoughts here?
Also, does it matter whether the shop head is forward or aft? Since you can
see aft after the plane is finished, I thought it would look better to put the
shop head on the inside.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer: rivet length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
>
>Hi all,
>
>I am at the step of riveting HS 609PP to HS-603: the bars to the channel.
>The plans call for AD4704-6 rivets. After clecoing the structure together, I
>put a rivet through. It is too short, based on what the manual and Sportaire
>folks say. In theory, you should have 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet out
>before you squeeze it. The -6 rivet puts out a tiny bit more than 4/32nds. A
>4-7 rivet gives me a tiny bit over 6/32nds. By the book, I should be using
>the -7 rivets as I should have 6/32nds of rivet at the shop end prior to
>squeeze. Not a lot of them came with the kit, so I am fairly sure
>this is not what
>Van's had in mind. I cannot believe that I have 1/16th thick primer on these
>parts. Any thoughts here?
>
>Also, does it matter whether the shop head is forward or aft? Since you can
>see aft after the plane is finished, I thought it would look better to put the
>shop head on the inside.
Every builder quickly discovers that the rivet lengths on the plans
are sometimes not correct. Use whatever length it takes to get 1.5
times diameter. I bought a number of long rivets, and cut them down
as required if I needed a length that I didn't have.
If the two pieces of material are different thicknesses, you want to
be forming the rivet against the thicker piece, if practical, as
thinner material is more likely to pucker as the head forms on it.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RCA connector and intercom connection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Dana,
See comments below.
James
Send email off-list if not clear. I have "tunes" installed and working fine.
| Subject: RV-List: RCA connector and intercom connection
|
| --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
|
| Dumb question #31259775-89870..................790884
|
{SNIP}
| The audio coming out of the DVD player is an RCA connector. The AUX or
| MP3
| input for the intercom are R/L one wire deals. How the heck do I connect
Which intercom are you using? The diagram that accompanied the intercom
probably shows an audio ground on a wire somewhere. The right and left audio
would be the "signal" on the center of the RCA connector.
You can probably tie the two grounds together and connect this to the "audio
ground" of the intercom. The other leads (left/right) go to the respective
inputs.
Clear as mud??? :-)
James
| the RCA to one wire???
|
| Got video............need sound.
|
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | N194TC First Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Tim,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000@deru.com>
>Subject: RV-List: N194TC First Flight
>Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2005 13:43:19 -0700
>March 27, 2005
>
>At approximately 9am Arizona time, N194TC bored a hole in the
>sky above Glendale airport (KGEU) and executed a nearly perfect
>first flight.
>
>Tim Coldenhoff
>RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Matt,
Use pro seal from the fuel tanks. It will never let go and its
PAINTABLE unlike silicone
Jim
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio |
--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Hi Bob,
I also have an Icom hand held (non vor model) and it works quite
nicely. It works great if you have set your panel up to be able to plug
the portable into the main antenna. On the rubber ducky- works
reasonable well.
Jim
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I use an Icom ICA-4 in my Pitts as the primary (there is no secondary)
radio and use the rubber ducky antenna. works really great.
Linn
do not archive
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
>Howdy,
>
>Polling the list for opinions on handheld transceivers. Our Terra(ble)
>is getting reviews of "Scratchy" and the range of intelligible
>transmissions is going down. I wouldn't care so much except that my wife
>and I are leaving for the right coast next Friday and I don't want to
>get caught short.
>
>Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard (Yaesu) or
>JRC radios?
>
>Pax,
>
>Ed Holyoke
>
>
>
>
--
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I left MCW (Mason City IA) Friday morning and flew to EYE (Eagle Creek IN)
and shot a Localizer approach to minimums. Bought 21 gallons of gas and
continued for ORF (Norfolk VA).
I had my XM WXworx Weather reciever and I was dodging precip and tracking
weather. Ice was a concern and I encountered ice twice which I quickly and
easily climbed above. I had to change my fuel stop because winds were
stronger than forecast I would have arrived at FWA, (Fort Wayne IN) without
my alternate plus reserve fuel.
Norfolk was 2000 OVC and I got the visual. From take off to touchdown it was
a 5+30 with a 20 minute fuel stop. At least 3 hours of that was solid IMC
and another hour was between layers.
When my work was done in Norfolk, because I was flying my own airplane
instead riding on a crowd killer, I flew from ORF to HEF (Manassas VA) to
visit a College roomate and his wife. 1 hour solid IMC with a let down to a
visual approach.
We had a great meal and then went to downtown DC to the WWII, Korea, and
Vietnam War memorials. I had not seen the memorials before. It was an
overcast evening and it was a powerful experience.
This morning I took off from HEF, 2500 OVC. After takeoff my encoder was
not warmed up and Manassas Tower wanted me to enter the downwind and land
imeadiately, at midfield, they picked up my mode C and recleared me on my
original clearance. 45 min later I broke out on top and half an hour later,
west of the mountains, the undercast went scattered. I landed in HHG, gased
up, and flew to back to MCW in the clear.
The purpose of the trip to Norfolk was to fly the Lonestar Flight Museum
Corsair with an F-18 at NAS Oceania for Navy Legacy flight training. I flew
the Corsair for 45 minutes and burned 80 gallons.
I flew the RV almost 11 hours, all on my schedule, I burned 92 gallons of
gas, I spent a wonderful evening with old friends, I was moved by the
memorials and I did not have to give away my pocket knife.
Flying home today, I thought a lot about what those memorials were about,
and I think one of the things those young men and women fought and died for
was our right to carry a pocket knife, but that borders on political
commentary, so I will close.
I LOVE my RV!!! But I would have NEVER done that trip without an autopilot!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Get lighted buttons. My three year old Yeasu doesn't have'em.........
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Holyoke [mailto:bicyclop@pacbell.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 2:59 PM
> To: SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Handheld Radio
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Howdy,
>
> Polling the list for opinions on handheld transceivers. Our
> Terra(ble) is getting reviews of "Scratchy" and the range of
> intelligible transmissions is going down. I wouldn't care so
> much except that my wife and I are leaving for the right
> coast next Friday and I don't want to get caught short.
>
> Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard
> (Yaesu) or JRC radios?
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer: rivet length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Michael,
I ran into this in the same place in the RV-7. The instruction manual
went so far as to say "the rivet call out on the plans is correct."
Well, I didn't agree and went with the longer rivets. They look great.
Drive a -6 and a -7 to compare and I think you will agree that the 7
looks right while the 6 shop head looks thin. You will probably be
ordering something soon from Wick's or Aircraft Spruce. Just tack on 1/8
oz. of AN4704-7 rivets and your dilemma will be resolved for $4.00.
There is a running joke among airplane builders that the UPS driver will
be making a lot of stops at your house in the next few years.
I did run into a spot on the RV-9 wing where too long of rivet was
specified. Aileron bracket as I recall. We cracked a couple of shop
heads before getting out the rivet cutter. Judgment is the name of the
game and this will develop as the project progresses. In using a
different rivet length, you aren't redesigning the airplane. You are
just making it your own creation.
Here's a trick. The 1/8 inch rivet needs to be 3/16 inch longer than the
material thickness. Lay a 3/16 inch drill bit next to the rivet you are
checking and pick the length that comes closest.
Another tip, don't be tempted to use the hand squeezer on 1/8 inch
rivets. By the time you apply enough force to set the rivet, it would
have been easier to just buck the thing in the first place. Everyone has
to try.
Yet another tip. When dimpling spars and ribs, clamp the head of the
squeezer in the vice with the male die facing down or away from you.
Bring the work to the tool and you can sit on a stool and dimple madly
away. This works equally well with pneumatic or hand squeezers. And when
you dimple that rib the wrong direction, just flip it over and do it
right. It will be fine. We have all done it and so will you.
I think that another person responding to your message said to put the
shop heads on the side with the thicker material. That sounds logical
and is probably correct. Sheet metal class was 25 years ago and I think
I was sleeping in class that day. This is the third RV tail that I have
worked on and I have always put the shop head on the inside where you
cannot see it. An FAA inspector and RV builder was a frequent visitor to
the shop on the last project and he didn't say anything about this. He
now flies that plane so he must not have major objections to this method.
If you haven't done them already, the rivets for the nose ribs are the
most difficult to drive in the whole airplane. It is a sick joke that
they are among the first that you have to tackle.
Happy building!
Mark
MLWynn@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
>
>Hi all,
>
>I am at the step of riveting HS 609PP to HS-603: the bars to the channel.
>The plans call for AD4704-6 rivets. After clecoing the structure together, I
>put a rivet through. It is too short, based on what the manual and Sportaire
>folks say. In theory, you should have 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet out
>before you squeeze it. The -6 rivet puts out a tiny bit more than 4/32nds. A
>4-7 rivet gives me a tiny bit over 6/32nds. By the book, I should be using
>the -7 rivets as I should have 6/32nds of rivet at the shop end prior to
>squeeze. Not a lot of them came with the kit, so I am fairly sure this is not
what
>Van's had in mind. I cannot believe that I have 1/16th thick primer on these
>parts. Any thoughts here?
>
>Also, does it matter whether the shop head is forward or aft? Since you can
>see aft after the plane is finished, I thought it would look better to put the
>shop head on the inside.
>
>Regards,
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8, Empennage
>San Ramon, California
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences with/without
the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans seems a bit uncommitted
about the benefits - what's the general opinion out there - is it worth
the extra work?
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Contemplating gear leg fairings
Perth Western Australia
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Have the Vertex 210 and love it...
Larry Bowen <Larry@bowenaero.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
Get lighted buttons. My three year old Yeasu doesn't have'em.........
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Holyoke [mailto:bicyclop@pacbell.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 2:59 PM
> To: SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Handheld Radio
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke"
>
> Howdy,
>
> Polling the list for opinions on handheld transceivers. Our
> Terra(ble) is getting reviews of "Scratchy" and the range of
> intelligible transmissions is going down. I wouldn't care so
> much except that my wife and I are leaving for the right
> coast next Friday and I don't want to get caught short.
>
> Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard
> (Yaesu) or JRC radios?
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A #70125
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Matt,
I glued the vents in my -7A with RTV, and I'm confident they'll stay in. I
have about 70 hours on the plane now. It is in the paint shop, so I can't
comment on how well the RTV holds paint, but there is so much area of RTV that
there is no way they are going to fall off! I don't know what brand it was.
Anything will work if it is fresh. I would try a test sample on a piece of
scrap to make sure it will cure. I have had the Blue Permatex not cure if it
is old.
I just roughed up the aluminum skins a little with a Scotchbrite pad, and
held them in place with duct tape overnight.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop)
In a message dated 3/27/05 2:28:17 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Has anyone "glued" the NACA ducts (for the cockpit air vents) on a 6A using
just RTV? If so, are you satisfied? If satisfied which specific brand RTV
did you use and what technique did you use? If this sounds dumb so be
it. I didn't build it so there are many things of which I am ignorant. An
archives search did not answer my questions. Thanks in advance.
Matthew M. Jurotich
e-mail mailto: mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Abwaldal@aol.com
RV-6
My two cents worth!
I would never use RTV to glue in the vents with. Paint isn't going to
stick. You slobber that silicone on anything and it is VERY hard to get off. Go
ask a painter.
I used proseal as everyone has a little left and it's shelf life is usually
good enough for little non-critical items like this. It seems like it would
be a mess But, after it sets up for awhile just take some thinner and wash
the edges and clean up any slobber. It's been a long time since I did them but
I believe I put a few small rivets in also. I takes paint like your RV will
to the air.
Keep the glossy side up!!!!
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Matt,
I forgot to mention that I also cleaned the area with MEK after roughing up.
Acetone would work just as well.
Dan
In a message dated 3/27/05 9:10:51 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
Matt,
I glued the vents in my -7A with RTV, and I'm confident they'll stay in. I
have about 70 hours on the plane now. It is in the paint shop, so I can't
comment on how well the RTV holds paint, but there is so much area of RTV
that
there is no way they are going to fall off! I don't know what brand it
was.
Anything will work if it is fresh. I would try a test sample on a piece of
scrap to make sure it will cure. I have had the Blue Permatex not cure if
it
is old.
I just roughed up the aluminum skins a little with a Scotchbrite pad, and
held them in place with duct tape overnight.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop)
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Doug,
Please excuse my dumbass ignorance but what different warbirds have you flown,
how did you come about getting trained to fly all those wonderful airplanes and
how do you stay *current* in them? When I grow up part of me wants to be like
you.
Respectfully,
Lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal"
>
> I left MCW (Mason City IA) Friday morning and flew to EYE (Eagle Creek IN)
> and shot a Localizer approach to minimums. Bought 21 gallons of gas and
> continued for ORF (Norfolk VA).
>
> I had my XM WXworx Weather reciever and I was dodging precip and tracking
> weather. Ice was a concern and I encountered ice twice which I quickly and
> easily climbed above. I had to change my fuel stop because winds were
> stronger than forecast I would have arrived at FWA, (Fort Wayne IN) without
> my alternate plus reserve fuel.
>
> Norfolk was 2000 OVC and I got the visual. From take off to touchdown it was
> a 5+30 with a 20 minute fuel stop. At least 3 hours of that was solid IMC
> and another hour was between layers.
>
> When my work was done in Norfolk, because I was flying my own airplane
> instead riding on a crowd killer, I flew from ORF to HEF (Manassas VA) to
> visit a College roomate and his wife. 1 hour solid IMC with a let down to a
> visual approach.
>
> We had a great meal and then went to downtown DC to the WWII, Korea, and
> Vietnam War memorials. I had not seen the memorials before. It was an
> overcast evening and it was a powerful experience.
>
> This morning I took off from HEF, 2500 OVC. After takeoff my encoder was
> not warmed up and Manassas Tower wanted me to enter the downwind and land
> imeadiately, at midfield, they picked up my mode C and recleared me on my
> original clearance. 45 min later I broke out on top and half an hour later,
> west of the mountains, the undercast went scattered. I landed in HHG, gased
> up, and flew to back to MCW in the clear.
>
> The purpose of the trip to Norfolk was to fly the Lonestar Flight Museum
> Corsair with an F-18 at NAS Oceania for Navy Legacy flight training. I flew
> the Corsair for 45 minutes and burned 80 gallons.
>
> I flew the RV almost 11 hours, all on my schedule, I burned 92 gallons of
> gas, I spent a wonderful evening with old friends, I was moved by the
> memorials and I did not have to give away my pocket knife.
>
> Flying home today, I thought a lot about what those memorials were about,
> and I think one of the things those young men and women fought and died for
> was our right to carry a pocket knife, but that borders on political
> commentary, so I will close.
>
> I LOVE my RV!!! But I would have NEVER done that trip without an autopilot!
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
>
>
>
>
Doug,
Please excuse my dumbass ignorance butwhat different warbirds have you flown,how
did you come about getting trained to fly all those wonderful airplanes and
how do you stay *current* in them? When I grow up part of me wants to be like
you.
Respectfully,
Lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <DOUGR@PETROBLEND.COM>
I left MCW (Mason City IA) Friday morning and flew to EYE (Eagle Creek IN)
and shot a Localizer approach to minimums. Bought 21 gallons of gas and
continued for ORF (Norfolk VA).
I had my XM WXworx Weather reciever and I was dodging precip and tracking
weather. Ice was a concern and I encountered ice twice which I quickly and
easily climbed above. I had to change my fuel stop because winds were
stronger than forecast I would have arrived at FWA, (Fort Wayne IN) without
my alternate plus reserve fuel.
Norfolk was 2000 OVC and I got the visual. From take off to touchdown it was
a 5+30 with a 20 minute fuel stop. At least 3 hours of that was solid
IMC
and another hour was between layers.
When my work was done in Norfolk, because I was flying my own airplane
instead riding on a crowd killer, I flew from ORF to HEF (Manassas VA) to
visit a College roomate and his wife. 1 hour solid IMC with a let down to a
visual approach.
We had a great meal and then went to downtown DC to the WWII, Korea, and
Vietnam War memorials. I had not seen the memorials before. It was an
overcast evening and it was a powerful experience.
This morning I took off from HEF, 2500 OVC. After takeoff my encoder was
not warmed up and Manassas Tower wanted me to enter the downwind and land
imeadiately, at midfield, they picked up my mode C and recleared me on my
original clearance. 45 min later I broke out on top and half an hour later,
west of the mountains, the undercast went scattered. I landed in HHG, gase
d
up, and flew to back to MCW in the clear.
The purpose of the trip to Norfolk was to fly the Lonestar Flight Museum
Corsair with an F-18 at NAS Oceania for Navy Legacy flight training. I flew
the Corsair for 45 minutes and burned 80 gallons.
I flew the RV almost 11 hours, all on my schedule, I burned 92 gallons of
gas, I spent a wonderful evening with old friends, I was moved by the
memorials and I did not have to give away my pocket knife.
Flying home today, I thought a lot about what those memorials were about,
and I think one of the things those young men and women fought and died for
was our right to carry a pocket knife, but that borders on political
commentary, so I will close.
I LOVE my RV!!! But I would have NEVER done that trip without an autopilot!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Check the archives. I don't think there is a consensus.
In my case, I didn't use the stiffeners and get shimmy under certain
conditions - typically lighter landing weights. As recommended by at least
one post in the archives, I balanced the wheelpants on my airplane before
the first flight. Obviously that didn't prevent the shimmy on my airplane.
The question is whether it helped, hurt, or just added weight. I dunno.
Perhaps the way to check would be to fly without the wheelpants
for a while.
I think the bottom line is that there may not be a definitive answer.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
>
> With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences
> with/without the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans
> seems a bit uncommitted about the benefits - what's the general opinion
> out there - is it worth the extra work?
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 QB
> Contemplating gear leg fairings
> Perth Western Australia
>
>
>
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Shirley, I think you will find success stories with and without the
stiffeners. I have them and would installed them again. I had to make a
panic stop from 80 MPH and I am convinced that without the stiffeners, the
spring rods and gear would have simply skipped along the tarmac rather than
hold the gear solidly down and enable me to stop within 300ft. However, I do
have a nose gear so I did not have any qualms about pedal to the metal as
they say. A trail dragger might not be able to apply them as hard as I did,
so perhaps the stiffeners may have been of less benefit is such a situation.
But, I believe the braking loads would have pulled the wheels back until
the rod gear popped them forward again, repeatedly if not for the
stiffeners. Not a scientific study or analysis but, my conviction just the
same.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
>
> With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences
with/without the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans seems
a bit uncommitted about the benefits - what's the general opinion out
there - is it worth the extra work?
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 QB
> Contemplating gear leg fairings
> Perth Western Australia
>
>
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
I have a YertexStandard VXA-700 and love it. now be advised it is full of
features and has a lot of menus to navigate though. Some would think that
it is complicated to operate but I have no complaints.
Weasel
do not archive
>
> Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard (Yaesu)
> or
> JRC radios?
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Shirley:
I have the gear leg stiffeners as shown in the plans. I would not be
without them. No shimmy and am able to hit the breaks very hard without any
break hop or skipping. With the stick full back, I can almost lock the
breaks up without any gear leg hop. Make sure the stick is all the way back
else the tail will come up. Yes that is how I know.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,644 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences
with/without the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans seems
a bit uncommitted about the benefits - what's the general opinion out there
- is it worth the extra work?
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Contemplating gear leg fairings
Perth Western Australia
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Currency, was Autopilot to...... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Lucky
Your third question is not a dumb one, a very valid one that I ponder a lot
in a different way, not how do I stay current, but am I current in them?
I fly 3-400 hours/year, half of that is in the RV, and the biggest currency
concern that I have is IFR currency. When I flew night freight I might
flight 6 hours and 6 approaches to minimums in one day. I just don't fly
like that any more, and it makes a difference.
With regard to Warbird currency, I have 2 secrets,
The first is, I have a library of manuals, and I have a memo in my Palm
Pilot specific to every Warbird that I fly regularly. It has speeds, notes
about specifics, quirks, idiosyncracies of that airplane.
The second is, I sit in the airplane before I fly it and go through the
entire flight, and some emergency procedures before I launch. That helps me
find the switches, gauges levers, etc. in short, don't get rushed!
Two different airplanes of the same type can be as different as another kind
of airplane. But most WWII airplanes are very similar and if you can fly the
T-6 well from the back seat you can fly any of them with very few
exceptions.
The short answer to your second question is: I started flying night freight
as a co-pilot in a DC-3 and then moved to the left seat of a Twin Beech.
That was great experience for warbird flying.
And finally to answer your first question, but again in a different way,
how many warbirds do I fly regularly?
M/Eng B-25, C-47, C-45
S/Eng P-51(C & D), Corsair(-4,-5, F2G) T-6, BT-13,
I am also qualified in and have flown T-28, PBY, Stearman. There are others
I am sure, but those come to mind.
I have steered some really cool airplanes, B-24, B-29, A-26, F-16, T-33,
Fouga, Seata.....
If you grow up, you will never be like me.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Despite your Callsign, I am the Luckiest guy you ever knew.
Do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> Doug,
> Please excuse my dumbass ignorance but what different warbirds have you
flown, how did you come about getting trained to fly all those wonderful
airplanes and how do you stay *current* in them? When I grow up part of me
wants to be like you.
>
> Respectfully,
> Lucky
> do not archive
>
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I cut mine off of my 6a and havent noticed much of a difference. I believe
they're better suited for the tail draggers.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
>
> With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences
> with/without the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans
> seems a bit uncommitted about the benefits - what's the general opinion
> out there - is it worth the extra work?
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 QB
> Contemplating gear leg fairings
> Perth Western Australia
>
>
>
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alclad Scratch--Prime? |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
I yet another of the continuing newbie questions:
I have primed all the ribs and spars in my horizontal stab. I was deburring
and dimpling the skins when I found a couple of pretty good scratches (well,
maybe closer to gouges) from fitting the middle ribs--this on the inside of
the skin, very near the front and slightly to the side of the rivet line. I was
scratching my head about how thick the alclad is and if I should spot prime
these areas. I had decided not to prime the entire skin for weight and general
hassle considerations--plus I live in a pretty dry climate (at least most
years).
Thoughts? O/C's striking yet again?
I used AKZO two part epoxy for the spars and ribs. Any reason I couldn't
spray a little Marhyde over the skin scratches? I assume that once dry, they
don't react.
Thanks,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Alclad Scratch--Prime? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
The alclad is no more than 1-2 thousandths. If you have a scratch like
you describe it is into the base 2024 aluminum.
It is your decision whether to paint or not. I would paint (I did all
my skins since I have no idea where my life will take me - wet, dry or ???).
Dick Tasker
MLWynn@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
>
>Hi all,
>
>I yet another of the continuing newbie questions:
>
>I have primed all the ribs and spars in my horizontal stab. I was deburring
>and dimpling the skins when I found a couple of pretty good scratches (well,
>maybe closer to gouges) from fitting the middle ribs--this on the inside of
>the skin, very near the front and slightly to the side of the rivet line. I was
>scratching my head about how thick the alclad is and if I should spot prime
>these areas. I had decided not to prime the entire skin for weight and general
>hassle considerations--plus I live in a pretty dry climate (at least most
>years).
>
>Thoughts? O/C's striking yet again?
>
>I used AKZO two part epoxy for the spars and ribs. Any reason I couldn't
>spray a little Marhyde over the skin scratches? I assume that once dry, they
>don't react.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8, Empennage
>San Ramon, California
>
>
>
>
--
----
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
----
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I started with no stiffeners, and had some shimmy. I added the
stiffeners during the test-flight period, and that helped a little, but
I still got occasional shimmy, especially during winter (icy runways).
Recently I got around to balancing the wheel pants, as I had read
about. A local old-timer has been bugging me to do this for some time
and swears by it. Well, I did it and now I'm a believer. No shimmy at
all since balancing them.
I would start with nothing and fly it. If it shimmies, try adding one
or the other (i'd start with balancing the pants) and if required do
both. The wood stiffeners are not particularly hard to do, and
balancing the pants is a snap. One of these days I'll get around to
writing up a "how-to" for my website.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|