Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:50 AM - Re: Rivet Cutting (Jim Jewell)
2. 01:46 AM - Re: Any chemists out there? Re: Alodine (Mickey Coggins)
3. 04:47 AM - Re: NACA Ducts (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 04:52 AM - Re: Balance pants (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 05:10 AM - Re: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions (Eric Parlow)
6. 05:15 AM - Re: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320 (Alan Kritzman)
7. 05:25 AM - Re: Rivet Cutting (sjhdcl@kingston.net)
8. 06:53 AM - For Sale: turn and bank (Gary Gunn)
9. 07:22 AM - Re: Rivet Cutting (Sam Buchanan)
10. 08:09 AM - Re: Custom seats... (Bob C.)
11. 08:14 AM - GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) ()
12. 08:20 AM - GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) ()
13. 08:23 AM - Re: Re: Rivet Cutting (Dwight Frye)
14. 08:38 AM - Re: Flap Brace Dimpling (Neil McLeod)
15. 08:41 AM - Balancing Wheelpants- website update (Jeff Point)
16. 08:57 AM - Re: Sikaflex and Van's powdercoat (Karen and Robert Brown)
17. 09:00 AM - Re: AeroCarb for Lycoming 0-320 (Vic Jacko)
18. 09:01 AM - Re: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320 (Vic Jacko)
19. 09:12 AM - 7A - lower cowl exit air attach brackets (Walter Tondu)
20. 09:24 AM - Re: AeroCarb for Lycoming 0-320 (Bill VonDane)
21. 09:28 AM - Re: Flap Brace Dimpling (Jamie Painter)
22. 09:51 AM - Re: Any Chemists Out There? Re: Alodine (Bruce Anthony)
23. 02:05 PM - Re: Any chemists out there? Re: Alodine (Bill Dube)
24. 03:34 PM - Re: GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) (Tom Barnes)
25. 03:54 PM - Re: Any chemists out there? Re: Alodine (David Burton)
26. 04:12 PM - Part needed- Van's spinner bulkhead (Jeff Point)
27. 05:20 PM - Re: Flap Brace Dimpling (Charles Becker)
28. 05:49 PM - Rivet cutting (Emrath)
29. 05:53 PM - Re: Flap Brace Dimpling (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
30. 06:14 PM - Wheel Pant Options (Jacob & Grace)
31. 06:17 PM - Re: Rivet cutting (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
32. 07:06 PM - Material cut sketch (David Burton)
33. 07:12 PM - Re: Re: Rivet Cutting (Ed Van)
34. 07:29 PM - Re: GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) (James E. Clark)
35. 09:54 PM - Weight reduction (j1j2h3@juno.com)
36. 11:59 PM - Re: Part needed- Van's spinner bulkhead (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Michael,
I have been cutting 3/32nd inch and 1/8th inch rivets with a pair of
electrical technician's flush cutters with good success. They can be bought
at electrical suppliers and electronics stores. The electronics suppliers
usually have good quality on hand for a bit more money. They are stronger,
stay sharp, and last longer. I must have cut a thousand or so rivets by now
with mine, still sharp. When doing the wing spars (older slow build) I
ground the side of a pair of Sears standard side cutters on my belt sander
to convert them to flush cutters for the bigger 3/16th inch diameter rivets.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
>
> I use a pair of needle nose pliers and the bench belt sander. Works
> great,
> but be careful when you are finished and don't grab it out of the pliers
> immediately.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A N658RP Reserved
> If nothing changes
> Nothing changes
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of mlwynn@aol.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mlwynn@aol.com
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I bought an inexpensive rivet cutter from Avery (I think). The first time
> I
> tried to use it, it bit me (sharp edges on cheap stamped parts). I have
> some hand arthritis and really had trouble cutting the rivet at all. Is
> there a better alternative? Something with more mechanical advantage?
> What
> do you all use?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
>
> RV8 Empennage
> San Ramon, CA
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Any chemists out there? RE: Alodine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Alodine is nasty stuff. I'd try find someone that takes hazardous
waste, and dispose of it there. You can also find a shop that
does chromate conversions for you.
Alodine is only sold to businesses that have certified disposal
methods where I live (Switzerland) so I went with a non-toxic
system called PreKote (http://www.pantheonchemical.com/PreKote.htm).
I have no idea if it is as good, better, or worse than the
acid etch/alodine process, but the stuff I've painted on top
of it has stuck well. Ask me again in 20 years if it still works
ok.
Mickey
> Alodine 1201 contains chromic acid, hydroflouric acid and potassium
> ferricyanide, less than 1% of each according to the MSDS.
>
> Do any or all of these chemicals break down readily into something harmless
> in soil? Or am I going to create a federally listed hazardous waste site
> by rinsing my parts off outside?
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Speaking of NACA ducts, here is another way they may be damaged. My friend
(honest, this time it wasn't me) had one damaged by hanging a trouble light
against it from the inside. It melted and made a mess.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop -- all primered gray)
In a message dated 3/29/05 4:38:12 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Speaking of NACA ducts......
Since they are some sort of plastic (at least the ones I got with Van's vent
kit are) that brings up the issue of painting. Obviously one cannot shoot
directly on the plastic or the vents will melt, right? So...what does one
do with the exposed plastic of these vents before painting? Spray them with
some kind of primer that doesn't contain nasty, plastic melting solvents?
What primer would that be? BTW, I drilled some holes and dimpled for #6
screws then put nutplates on my vents, should make install easy and
removable if necessary (doubt it unless they get hit with some hard object).
Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wiring and finish work
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Balance pants |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
The Grumman AA1C Lynx I used to have had the wheel pants balanced out of the
factory, I assume. On my -7A, the bracket bolts work loose, or the spacers
wear down, or something -- resulting in brake chatter, and the wheel pants
rocking a little around the axle. I'm convinced that balancing the wheel pants
will help. I operate almost exclusively off of grass, and the pants take
quite a beating.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
Evan,
We received the drawing and instructions today.
Thanks for sending the info, it will be a great help to "know" what we're
doing!
Let us know if we can help you in any way.
Eric & Andy.
RV-8A in NC
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Send me your address Eric....I believe I have an extra set of drawings for
this. I have installed a ton of these now and its no big deal....just takes
time.
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
> We're building a RV-8 fuel tank with capacitance fuel senders.
>
> The capacitance sensor kit is second hand and did not come with
> instructions.
>
> Could some tell us were to go to get the instruction or fax/scan them to
us?
>
> Thanks
> ERic-
> RV-8 wings/tanks
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Alan Kritzman <rv8_flyer@yahoo.com>
Vic,
A local Long-EZ builder tried to put one on his O-290 and had nothing but trouble.
He could not get it to idle smooth and when he would pull the power back
while flying the vacuum would make the slide stick. After about 30 minutes of
flying and several hour of ground runs he pulled it off and rebuilt his old carb.
BTW Aerocarb refused to refund any money, so he as a very expensive paper
weight on his desk.
If you decide to go ahead with this be sure to get the names of someone who is
currently flying one of these and contact them to get there opinion on how to
set it up.
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8 N8EM
Vic Jacko <vicwj@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko"
Hi,
Is there anyone on the list that has used the Aerocarb on the Lycoming 0-320? If
so would you please tell us about it.
Vic
---------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
> Time: 10:55:00 AM PST US
> From: mlwynn@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
>
I have built 3 RVs (almost #3) now and I highly recommend the following.
Cutting rivets to the size you need is fine if you only require a few
rivets. Every rivet cutter I've tried works ok for 3/32" rivets but it
does still leave the end at a slight angle and small burrs around the
edges. 1/8" rivets are usually a 'grunt' to cut and the burrs and angle
are often more pronounced. If they work for you great, but I do not use a
rivet cutter any more.
My suggestion is to get a nice selection of rivet sizes. Get some 5.5,
6.5 length rivets and keep them for instances where the plans calls for a
-5 rivet and it just isn't long enough and a -6 is too long. Grab a 5.5
and you done. Not only that but the end of the rivet is perfectly formed
and no grinding or cutting that can actually cause hardening of the rivet.
I have a contact of a company that I buy my rivet from. They have
absolutely any size you want in 426, 470, 'opps' rivet and many others.
My rivet collection goes from -3 to 14.5 in .5 increments. Makes rivets
selection a joy an no compromises. Cost is cheap. Rivets are very
inexpensive and I bet a size rivet selection will cost you less then the
best rivet cutter can find. Even the best aircraft supply store will not
stock a selection of rivets like this.
If you want the name of the company I'll pass it on.
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
> --> RV-List message posted by: mlwynn@aol.com
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I bought an inexpensive rivet cutter from Avery (I think). The first time
> I tried
> to use it, it bit me (sharp edges on cheap stamped parts). I have some
> hand
> arthritis and really had trouble cutting the rivet at all. Is there a
> better
> alternative? Something with more mechanical advantage? What do you all
> use?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
>
> RV8 Empennage
> San Ramon, CA
Message 8
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| Subject: | For Sale: turn and bank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary Gunn" <ggunn@qwest.net>
I have a 2 1/4 " RC ALLEN electric turn and bank model A1050-2 for sale,
includes cannon plug connector.
Still under factory warranty. $450.00. Used for 75hrs, works great. If
interrested, contact me off list via email or phone.
Gary Gunn
602-421-6931
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Bob Perkinson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
>
> I use a pair of needle nose pliers and the bench belt sander. Works great,
> but be careful when you are finished and don't grab it out of the pliers
> immediately.
It's amazing how big a hole a tiny rivet can burn in your hand! :-)
There was another post about using a belt sander or grinder to shorten
rivets. There is a possibility that the heat of grinding the rivet
*might* harden the rivet enough to cause the shop head to crack.
I don't know if this is a problem that will occur very often, but a
careful look at a few driven rivets that were shortened with the
grinder/sander might be a good idea just to make sure the rivets
weren't compromised.
Sam Buchanan
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Custom seats... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Has anyone tried the Classic Aero - "RV-8 Standard Interior Kit" w/
the "chromoly frame that is fully enclosed by the seat cover like an
automotive seat"?
If you've used these, how did they fit / work out?
Thanks,
Bob
Message 11
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| Subject: | GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
I'm wondering the same thing. The Navaid people said yes,
but I have yet to get behind the panel to try and figure out
how to hook things together. I will report anything as I
find it out, would appreciate advice if anyone else knows
how best to do it.
Scott Keadle
RV8 N844RF
14A Lake Norman, NC
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes"
<skytop@megsinet.net>
I wonder if my GNS430 has the same option?
Tom Barnes -6 96hrs
Message 12
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| Subject: | GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
Tom,
Below is the email I got back from my inquiry to Navaid.
Maybe you can understand it already. I'm gonna have some
studying to do first. Hope this helps.
Scott Keadle
RV8 N844RF
14A Lake Norman, NC
My online reqading of the Pilot's Guide for the Garmin 430
indicates that it
can drive an external CDI. I haven't seen the pinouts,
though. Hook up the
CDI feeds (+Left and +Right) to pins three (3) and six (6)
of the 12-pin
Moles connector at the back of the AP-1 head. These pins are
the tracking
inputs for the AP-1. Note that if you use the internal
graphic CDI feature
of the 430, it will not drive the AP-1. If you don't have
all the
documentation for the 430, talk to the guy who sold you the
plane. Has it
worked for him?
Horace Brock
for Navaid Devices
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
You must be kidding ... of *course* we would want to know the name of a
"one stop shopping" source for rivets! :) Post on list, or send it to me
(at a minimum) off list! (This might be another good category of subjects
to add to the Wiki when we get it up ... "Suppliers and Resources").
-- Dwight
PS: Wiki work is moving forward. More news/info as we get something worth
showing to the public.
do not archive
On Tue Mar 29 08:24:32 2005, sjhdcl@kingston.net wrote :
>[ ... snip ... ]
>I have a contact of a company that I buy my rivet from. They have
>absolutely any size you want in 426, 470, 'opps' rivet and many others.
>My rivet collection goes from -3 to 14.5 in .5 increments. Makes rivets
>selection a joy an no compromises. Cost is cheap. Rivets are very
>inexpensive and I bet a size rivet selection will cost you less then the
>best rivet cutter can find. Even the best aircraft supply store will not
>stock a selection of rivets like this.
>
>If you want the name of the company I'll pass it on.
>[ ... snip ... ]
Message 14
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| Subject: | Flap Brace Dimpling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
I would do just that, we QB builders us the MS-142 (I think) "pop" rivets.
Those rivets can't be seen once the flap is mounted anyway so no one will
know you "cheated".The idea of drilling out rivets almost always seems more
painful than it turns out to be. I've wasted weeks agonizing over drilling
out a few rivets, thinking of alternatives etc when 30 minutes of work and
the problem would have been solved.
Neil McLeod
7 QB N748M Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jamie Painter
Subject: RV-List: Flap Brace Dimpling
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
Fellow Builders:
Boy...I really painted myself into a corner this time.
My wings are now completely skinned and I'm working on mounting my flaps.
Unfortunately I lacked any foresight in countersinking the flap brace before
the skins were riveted on. I thought that I could easily fix this problem
by
countersinking and reinforcing the hinge pin and dimpling the skin and flap
brace...but I can't get my pneumatic squeezer in there for the dimpling.
So,
I ordered the vice grip dimplers from Cleaveland but there is NO WAY I'm
going
to be able to hand dimple that flap brace...it's way too thick.
Any thoughts or suggestions here? I can't believe that I might be the first
person to do this. I think a possibility would be to drill out the flap
brace-to-spar rivets, do the necessary countersinking and re-attach the
brace
with pop-rivets (I believe the quickbuilders use pop-rivets anyway). I hope
someone can offer a better suggestion. I'm calling Van's tomorrow but
wanted
to get the thoughts from other builders before I do.
Thanks,
Jamie
do not archive
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 15
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| Subject: | Balancing Wheelpants- website update |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I finally got around to putting some pictures of the wheel balancing
process up on my website, for those who have been asking.
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/wheel%20pants.htm
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex and Van's powdercoat |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
I just finished using Sikaflex to attach my canopy to the frame. The only hole
in the canopy is the latch handle. I talked to Sika about it and also read available
info on the list to come up with the procedure I used...
One thing I did that I'd do differently...prior to using the adhesive, I fit the
side skirts to the frame and made the final cuts to the canopy sides where it
meets the side skirts. When I went to fit the side skirts, one was a little
shy of coming all the way down past the canopy rail. I'll have to re-do it.
Other than that (which is really not related to using adhesive)...It seems to
have worked great...
I basically used Jim Cone's advice on canopy fitting...including cutting off the
protrusion of the tube where the canopy latch handle fits. Once this is cut,
you will see there really is only one way that the frame will fit into the canopy...it
just sort of falls into place. It would be nice to have some help
to hold it there precisely while you mark the hole for the canopy latch handle
to pass through.
Before getting to the adhesive part, do your canopy fitting using rubber garden
hose washers between the canopy and frame as needed so the canopy is fitted while
maintaining the clearance for the adhesive bead. Placement of these washers
will vary...I used a series of marks on the plastic canopy coating to locate
the placement of these washers and experimented until the placement of the
washers gave me the best fit. In most cases, the clamps go where the washers
are. Just be sure not to put adhesive where the washers are, so you can go back
and fill in that area with adhesive after the first adhesive is set.
Here is what I did:
1. Tape frame and plexiglass with electrician's tape to isolate area that will
receive adhesive.
2. Scuff plexiglass and frame where you're going to apply primer, w/80 grit
paper.
3. Remove the dust with a tack cloth
4. Apply Sika 226 cleaner to plexi and frame using lint free cloth
5. Wait 10-15 minutes
6. Apply Sika Pimer 209 to frame and canopy using a soft brush. This coat
will show to the outside, so make it uniform. Let dry at least 20 min, but not
over 2 hrs.
7. Cut dispensing tube of Sikaflex 295UV adhesive to dispense a triangular
bead (look for the outline to cut...I chose the first "size" of the three marked
diameters)
8. Apply Sikaflex adhesive to frame - it skins over in 5 minutes and you have
about 30 minutes of working time to do your placement and adjustments.
9. Clamp the canopy into position on the frame with the rubber hose washers
positioned where you had them during the fitting process.
10. Use aluminum scraps clamped to the sides of the canopy frame to align the
sides of the canopy correctly while the adhesive sets. The canopy skirt assembly
will then pull these in nicely after everything is set.
I will use the Sika adhesive to attach the windscreen and rear canopy skirts as
well and will send an update when that's done...
Thanks to everyone on the list who helped...
Bob
RV7A - wiring
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: AeroCarb for Lycoming 0-320 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Kritzman" <rv8_flyer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320
> --> RV-List message posted by: Alan Kritzman <rv8_flyer@yahoo.com>
>
> Vic,
> A local Long-EZ builder tried to put one on his O-290 and had nothing but
> trouble. He could not get it to idle smooth and when he would pull the
> power back while flying the vacuum would make the slide stick. After
> about 30 minutes of flying and several hour of ground runs he pulled it
> off and rebuilt his old carb. BTW Aerocarb refused to refund any money,
> so he as a very expensive paper weight on his desk.
>
> If you decide to go ahead with this be sure to get the names of someone
> who is currently flying one of these and contact them to get there opinion
> on how to set it up.
>
> Alan Kritzman
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8 N8EM
>
> Vic Jacko <vicwj@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko"
>
> Hi,
>
> Is there anyone on the list that has used the Aerocarb on the Lycoming
> 0-320? If so would you please tell us about it.
>
> Vic
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Thanks for the info on the Aerocarb.
Do not archive,
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Kritzman" <rv8_flyer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320
> --> RV-List message posted by: Alan Kritzman <rv8_flyer@yahoo.com>
>
> Vic,
> A local Long-EZ builder tried to put one on his O-290 and had nothing but
> trouble. He could not get it to idle smooth and when he would pull the
> power back while flying the vacuum would make the slide stick. After
> about 30 minutes of flying and several hour of ground runs he pulled it
> off and rebuilt his old carb. BTW Aerocarb refused to refund any money,
> so he as a very expensive paper weight on his desk.
>
> If you decide to go ahead with this be sure to get the names of someone
> who is currently flying one of these and contact them to get there opinion
> on how to set it up.
>
> Alan Kritzman
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8 N8EM
>
> Vic Jacko <vicwj@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko"
>
> Hi,
>
> Is there anyone on the list that has used the Aerocarb on the Lycoming
> 0-320? If so would you please tell us about it.
>
> Vic
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | 7A - lower cowl exit air attach brackets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
Applies to 7A builders only. Sorry for the double post.
The lower cowl exit air attach brackets specify attaching the U-620B
to the lower weldment gusset on the engine mount gear socket by
drilling two holes in the gusset and bolting the 620 to it.
Unfortunately, the plans that Vans provides are outdated and were
probably drawn for RV6 installations, not sure.
http://www.rv7-a.com/Plans/45%20cowling%20installation%20rv-7.pdf
The problem is that the gusset is so small that drilling two
holes in it (#12) is next to impossible. Getting washers and
nuts behind the gusset will be an acrobatic act or near
impossible, plus, I don't really want to drill any holes in
the gussets, I would like to keep my nosegear assembly as strong
as possible.
I called Vans and Tom wasn't aware of any changes in the gear
weldment but was going to check.
I suggested that I could use Adel clamps on the engine mount
tubes and hold it in place that way and he agreed this would
be satisfactory and in fact might add some shock absorbing too.
I just wanted to know if there was a better way. Am I the
only one that has run into this issue?
Thanks,
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: AeroCarb for Lycoming 0-320 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I usually don't try to bash people on the list but... At one time I was a
Sonex builder and I have had, and several of my friends who are Sonex
builders have had many problems with these people... A buddy of mine has
posted some correspondence he had with them on his web site... Remember he
is a Sonex builder and has spent MANY THOUSANDS of dollars with them...
http://sonex260.wheelsup.org/banned.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AeroCarb for Lycoming 0-320
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Kritzman" <rv8_flyer@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320
> --> RV-List message posted by: Alan Kritzman <rv8_flyer@yahoo.com>
>
> Vic,
> A local Long-EZ builder tried to put one on his O-290 and had nothing but
> trouble. He could not get it to idle smooth and when he would pull the
> power back while flying the vacuum would make the slide stick. After
> about 30 minutes of flying and several hour of ground runs he pulled it
> off and rebuilt his old carb. BTW Aerocarb refused to refund any money,
> so he as a very expensive paper weight on his desk.
>
> If you decide to go ahead with this be sure to get the names of someone
> who is currently flying one of these and contact them to get there opinion
> on how to set it up.
>
> Alan Kritzman
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8 N8EM
>
> Vic Jacko <vicwj@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko"
>
> Hi,
>
> Is there anyone on the list that has used the Aerocarb on the Lycoming
> 0-320? If so would you please tell us about it.
>
> Vic
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Flap Brace Dimpling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
> I would do just that, we QB builders us the MS-142 (I think) "pop" rivets.
> Those rivets can't be seen once the flap is mounted anyway so no one will
> know you "cheated".The idea of drilling out rivets almost always seems more
> painful than it turns out to be. I've wasted weeks agonizing over drilling
> out a few rivets, thinking of alternatives etc when 30 minutes of work and
> the problem would have been solved.
>
> Neil McLeod
> 7 QB N748M Finishing
I called Van's, talked to Ken, and he said the 'best' thing to do would be to
just drill out the flap brace and then put it back on with MSP-42's. I hate
to do that, since now my wings will look like QB wings. ;-) You're right
though, no one will ever see it. I'll just chalk this one up to a lesson
learned and drill 'em out.
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings almost done...
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 22
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| Subject: | RE: Any Chemists Out There? RE: Alodine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Anthony" <bruce.anthony@holidaycompanies.com>
Richard,
The general answer to your question is: Yes. While mother nature is very forgiving
of even the most profound insults, Alodine's components are very toxic to
every living thing we hold dear. This is what will likely happen to the Alodine
you wash into the soil. The components will breakdown into lower toxic components.
However, the grass will probably die, and the soil will be sterilized.
The soil will be of such low pH that even tomatos won't grow. This won't
happen the first time necessarily, but the effects are accumulative. Sometime
after you stop (perhaps years), the ground will repair itself and life will
go on.
Now, if you refer to the disposal information on the MSDS sheet, you will see that
this material is a hazardous waste when disposed. So the very act of washing
it into the ground is a violation of a number of environmental regulations.
If you're not caught, well, you got away with it. If a neighbor turns you
in, expect a good fine, the cost of cleanup (possibly thousands of dollars),
and maybe a short stay in jail. The court system and environmental regulators
are usually more friendly to private citizens than companies, but who knows for
sure until it happens.
So there is the long and short of it. Most publicly owned treatment plants are
capable of treating small quantities of this stuff (the dilution effect is huge),
so you might consider rinsing the parts off in a sink, shower or bath (use
the ventilation fan, gloves and a mask). The secret is to use as little as
possible during the treatment process. Or find a different treatment. It would
be really nice if someone came up with a more environmentally friendly alternative
to this stuff.
Bruce Anthony
RV-9A Wings
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Any chemists out there? RE: Alodine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 08:22 PM 3/28/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
>
>Alodine 1201 contains chromic acid, hydroflouric acid and potassium
>ferricyanide, less than 1% of each according to the MSDS.
>
>Do any or all of these chemicals break down readily into something harmless
>in soil? Or am I going to create a federally listed hazardous waste site
>by rinsing my parts off outside?
Have you seen the movie Erin Brockovich? This was all about
chromate pollution. Chromates like the ones in Alodine are REALLY nasty
stuff. Chromates cause cancer in even very tiny amounts.
You want to be very careful not to get any Alodine on you or
inhale the dust as you mix it. If you put any down the drain, you are
breaking Federal and local laws. If you put a significant amount down the
drain, they will detect it at the sewage treatment plant and will likely
trace it back to you. They test regularly and the level cannot exceed 0.2
parts per billion.
It would not take much Alodine down the drain to kick the chromate
"meter" offscale at the treament plant. Washing your hands and a few drops
off your clothes would be OK, but washing off Alodined parts in the sink
would be risking a hefty fine.
>Richard Scott
>9A Wings
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes" <skytop@megsinet.net>
Thanks for the info Scott,
Just for the record, I had the (two yellow) wires hooked from the CDI to the
Navaid and found the unit would not hold track, so I swapped the wires.
This caused a more drastic steer away from the course line. Very little
steer when ON the line, but it magnified as the distance (from the course
line) increased.
I will see if I can disable the CDI feature on the GNS430 and then retry.
Of course I'll have to swap the wires again. Maybe I'll put in a switch
just for this purpose.
Your statement about "using" the CDI feature of the 430 makes me wonder if
that means - using it while trying to track a course or does it mean having
it available to "use", but not actively in use. In other words, disable the
feature?
Thanks,
Tom Barnes
----- Original Message -----
From: "with HTTP/1.1" <scott@keadle.com>
Subject: RV-List: GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!)
> --> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
>
> Tom,
>
> Below is the email I got back from my inquiry to Navaid.
> Maybe you can understand it already. I'm gonna have some
> studying to do first. Hope this helps.
>
> Scott Keadle
> RV8 N844RF
> 14A Lake Norman, NC
>
>
> My online reqading of the Pilot's Guide for the Garmin 430
> indicates that it
> can drive an external CDI. I haven't seen the pinouts,
> though. Hook up the
> CDI feeds (+Left and +Right) to pins three (3) and six (6)
> of the 12-pin
> Moles connector at the back of the AP-1 head. These pins are
> the tracking
> inputs for the AP-1. Note that if you use the internal
> graphic CDI feature
> of the 430, it will not drive the AP-1. If you don't have
> all the
> documentation for the 430, talk to the guy who sold you the
> plane. Has it
> worked for him?
>
> Horace Brock
> for Navaid Devices
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Any chemists out there? RE: Alodine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
It might be useful to take a look at the MSDS for this product:
http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/msds/docs/wcd00038/wcd038aa.htm
The MSDS is available on-line for any product you might use, and doing a
little research beforehand might protect both you and the planet...
This RV list is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but all of the "info"
posted should be taken with a grain of salt. Gather data and come to your
own conclusion. Don't blindly follow advice without knowing the source. I
try to post links if possible rather then just make unsubstantiated
statements. That said, the MSDS states that there is no cancer risk for
this product. My bottle of Alodine 1201 says there might be a risk and
California states that there is one...
Use caution, be safe. What you don't know can hurt you.
David Burton
BioMedical Engineer,
University of Washington Medical Center
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Part needed- Van's spinner bulkhead |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I'm in desperate need of a Van's S-605 front spinner bulkhead, ASAP. My
new prop from Craig Catto is ready to be shipped, but Van's is back
ordered on the spinner bulkhead. In order to get my prop and spinner
from him in time for the Sun n Fun trip, I need to get my hands on one
and get it to Craig by Friday. Anybody out there have one laying around
or one they won't need for a while and be willing to part with? I would
need it drop shipped to Craig in CA, I can get you the shipping info.
Of course I'll reimburse you for the replacement, shipping costs as well
as your trouble.
If you have one, and can promise to get it in the mail (Express Mail)
tomorrow, please contact me. I won't be near email the rest of the
night but you can get me on my cell phone 414.915.9173. You will have
my eternal gratitude.
Thanks
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Flap Brace Dimpling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker@atlanticbb.net>
I just made the same mistake and the callout for the blind rivets for the QB
asks for a CR3212 4-6 which is a flush head cherry max. Any thoughts as to
why a flush head is requested?
Charlie Becker
N464CB(r) RV8A
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jamie Painter
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Brace Dimpling
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
> I would do just that, we QB builders us the MS-142 (I think) "pop" rivets.
> Those rivets can't be seen once the flap is mounted anyway so no one will
> know you "cheated".The idea of drilling out rivets almost always seems
more
> painful than it turns out to be. I've wasted weeks agonizing over drilling
> out a few rivets, thinking of alternatives etc when 30 minutes of work and
> the problem would have been solved.
>
> Neil McLeod
> 7 QB N748M Finishing
I called Van's, talked to Ken, and he said the 'best' thing to do would be
to
just drill out the flap brace and then put it back on with MSP-42's. I hate
to do that, since now my wings will look like QB wings. ;-) You're right
though, no one will ever see it. I'll just chalk this one up to a lesson
learned and drill 'em out.
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings almost done...
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 28
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
I used a 2" scotch brite disk on a die-grinder and I've used a file, holding
the rivet in a needle nose pliers. Also, I've been known to shorten the
rivet by just tapping on the end with a hammer to flatten them up and fit
the hole really well. Just hold the rivet, machine end down on the anvil
portion of your vise and tap very squarely on the shop end to do this.
Doesn't take much to fatten 'em up. Make setting them easy too.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 11:29:26 PM PST US
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
I use a pair of needle nose pliers and the bench belt sander. Works great,
but be careful when you are finished and don't grab it out of the pliers
immediately.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of mlwynn@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
--> RV-List message posted by: mlwynn@aol.com
Hi folks,
I bought an inexpensive rivet cutter from Avery (I think). The first time I
tried to use it, it bit me (sharp edges on cheap stamped parts). I have
some hand arthritis and really had trouble cutting the rivet at all. Is
there a better alternative? Something with more mechanical advantage? What
do you all use?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Brace Dimpling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
If you don't use flush head rivets there can be a clearence problem when
the flap rotates. I believe it is about an 1/8 in. between the flap and
seals on my RV6-A.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker@atlanticbb.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Brace Dimpling
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker@atlanticbb.net>
>
> I just made the same mistake and the callout for the blind rivets for the
> QB
> asks for a CR3212 4-6 which is a flush head cherry max. Any thoughts as
> to
> why a flush head is requested?
>
> Charlie Becker
> N464CB(r) RV8A
> Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jamie Painter
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Brace Dimpling
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
>
>> I would do just that, we QB builders us the MS-142 (I think) "pop"
>> rivets.
>> Those rivets can't be seen once the flap is mounted anyway so no one will
>> know you "cheated".The idea of drilling out rivets almost always seems
> more
>> painful than it turns out to be. I've wasted weeks agonizing over
>> drilling
>> out a few rivets, thinking of alternatives etc when 30 minutes of work
>> and
>> the problem would have been solved.
>>
>> Neil McLeod
>> 7 QB N748M Finishing
>
> I called Van's, talked to Ken, and he said the 'best' thing to do would be
> to
> just drill out the flap brace and then put it back on with MSP-42's. I
> hate
> to do that, since now my wings will look like QB wings. ;-) You're right
> though, no one will ever see it. I'll just chalk this one up to a lesson
> learned and drill 'em out.
>
> --
> Jamie D. Painter
> RV-7A wings almost done...
> http://rv.jpainter.org
>
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Wheel Pant Options |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear@klondiker.com>
My RV-8 is coming out of paint and I am trying to arrange the final inspection.
Has anyone used or aware of a source for "Wheel Spats". Maule put them on every
Maule for years and everyone took them off and threw them away. Now I want
to try a set because I have 6" wheels on the 8 and can't find any. They may be
a good option for rougher use.
81938
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>>>>
Aw, just use the next longer one, then grind the "too tall" shop head down to
spec!
Mark
(sorry!) & DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Material cut sketch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
I seem to remember that Vans had a sketch, drawing or something that showed
how to cut the various pieces out of stock material so that you could get
all the parts from the material supplied. I can't find it or don't have one
for my RV6 non-prepunched wing kit.
It has been obvious up to this point how to make the cuts. But now I need
to cut the four little spacers for the aileron bell cranks out of a 16"
square sheet of 0.063" stock and I don't have a clue. I assume I can get
away with ripping a piece off one side of it, but I'll wait till I know for
sure...
If anyone has the answer I'd appreciate it. If not I'll call Vans tomorrow.
Thanks as always!
Dave,
RV6, near Seattle
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ed Van <rv7ator@yahoo.com>
Sure Steve,
I'd really like to know the supplier that you get your rivets from.
Thanks,
Ed -7
waiting on QB wings and fuse
---------------------------------
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Tom,
I use the CDI out feature of our KMD 150 to drive out Navaid. It works.
It will "hunt" though for a while. What I find works best is to "re-center"
the CDI and basically get as close to on course as you can and then engage
the AP to track.
That is, line things up if you can and let it stabilized.
There are some sensitivity settings that you might want to check on for the
Navaid (if you haven't already). I am assuming that the not holding track
was that it was swinging from side to side (overshoot).
Does the Garmin show how far you are "off-course"?
James
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
| server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Barnes
| Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 6:33 PM
| To: rv-list@matronics.com
| Subject: Re: RV-List: GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!)
|
| --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes" <skytop@megsinet.net>
|
| Thanks for the info Scott,
| Just for the record, I had the (two yellow) wires hooked from the CDI to
| the
| Navaid and found the unit would not hold track, so I swapped the wires.
| This caused a more drastic steer away from the course line. Very little
{SNIP}
|
| Your statement about "using" the CDI feature of the 430 makes me wonder
| if
| that means - using it while trying to track a course or does it mean
| having
| it available to "use", but not actively in use. In other words, disable
| the
| feature?
|
| Thanks,
| Tom Barnes
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Weight reduction |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
"To dream the impossible dream, to fight the unbeatable foe, to bear with
unbearable sorrow, to run where the brave dare not go... "
The FAA is forcing me to go to Light Sport Aircraft by making it
impossibly expensive to maintain my medical. Among many other things,
they are requiring that I get a test of my pacemaker every 4 weeks (my
doctor says once every 6 months is adequate). This costs about $330 and
there is no way my insurance will pay for it that often. Then I will
need a stress test with ECG and eye evaluation with field of vision test
Then since my medical is a special issuance, it can not be renewed by a
local AME, but must be submitted to Oklahoma City. I had to get all of
these tests last year to get my medical reinstated, but I thought it was
a one-time requirement, and my doctors were able to do the tests as part
of my post-operative checkup. After I submitted all of the data, it took
6 months for approval. Altogether, I figure it will cost me $1500 -
$2000 a year for 6 months of flying.
Sooo .... this is where the impossible dream starts - I want to build my
RV-7 as a Light Sport Aircraft. Requirements are 1320 lb gross weight,
138 mph top speed straight and level, and 51 mph stall speed w/o flaps.
Stall speed of the RV-7 at 1400 lb gross weight is 51 mph (probably with
flaps). Weight of 1320 pounds will lower this, but I may have to add
vortex generators to get it lower without flaps. Limiting speed to 138
mph maximum is no problem - I'll just use a prop that can not get above
this at max engine rpm's, and I'll have terrific climb performance. The
weight is the biggie.
I figure I could bring the plane in at about 1000 lb empty weight with an
O-320 engine by watching construction carefully, foregoing paint, and
eliminating any luxuries such as sound insulation. However, this is
still about 200 lb too much to make the gross weight of 1320 lb., even
with only 20 gallons of fuel.
Sooo, I'm going to have to take some drastic measures. The RV 7 will
cruise at 172 mph with 88 horsepower (55% of 160). Extrapolating, I
would only need 55 hp for 138 mph. I can get a VW-based engine with a
PSRU that will give me 100 hp. With a prop that limited top speed to 138
mph, this should still give me an acceptable climb rate. This engine
would weigh 100 lb less than the O-320. To maintain the center of
gravity, I would extend the motor mount and cowl.
Now, I still need 100 lb more weight reduction, and this is where the
going gets tough and is the real reason for this post. With the reduced
gross weight and speed, I should be able to reduce some of the structure.
The question is how much and where. I would appreciate any suggestions.
If need be, I can eliminate the electrical system, since I'll only be
able to fly day VFR anyway.
I've checked the archives using "weight reduction" as a search string,
but didn't find a whole lot.
I know I am committing heresy by proposing to cripple a fine plane in
this manner, but I can't find any other aircraft that would measure up to
it, even in its crippled condition. It still will cruise faster than a
172, still be aerobatic, and will still have the same delightful control
harmony.
Jim Hasper - RV7
Jim Hasper - RV-7
Giving new meaning to the term "slow build"
Franklin, TN
Do not archive
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Part needed- Van's spinner bulkhead |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Thanks to all who responded. I got quite a few calls quickly. In fact
I had the part arranged for within 30 minutes of posting. This list is
great.
Jeff
do no archive
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