Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:43 AM - Engine mount (Clive Whittfield)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: CFI (DellAngelo, Scott M)
3. 05:53 AM - Re: Shop Floor Epoxy (Doug Rozendaal)
4. 06:41 AM - Re: Shop Floor Epoxy (Kelly Patterson)
5. 07:19 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process (Richard Dudley)
6. 07:34 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process (Paul Trotter)
7. 07:53 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process (Paul Trotter)
8. 08:25 AM - Re: Engine mount (Jim Oke)
9. 09:04 AM - Workshop Floor (Valovich, Paul)
10. 09:28 AM - Re: Engine mount (Derrick Aubuchon)
11. 11:00 AM - FAA Websites (Wheeler North)
12. 01:10 PM - Rental out of Tampa (Dana Overall)
13. 01:30 PM - Re: Rental out of Tampa (Joe Bienkowski)
14. 04:09 PM - Re: Rental out of Tampa (Dana Overall)
15. 06:01 PM - Re: Rental out of Tampa (Alex Peterson)
16. 06:05 PM - Re: Engine mount (Bobby Hester)
17. 07:26 PM - Re: Handheld Radio (Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E)
18. 08:05 PM - Re: Rental out of Tampa (Darrell Reiley)
19. 08:32 PM - Re: Engine mount (HCRV6@aol.com)
20. 10:34 PM - FAB airbox line up with induction scoop (Charlie Brame)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
A question from a Kiwi newbie. Currently in the process of building up the firewall
of my slow build RV6 project and have struck a problem I'm hoping the list
can provide some help with. I am using the (Vans supplied) engine mount to
accurately locate the bolt holes. The mount lines up perfectly with the top
two tooling holes and also with one of the pilot holes (#14) I have drilled for
the bottom outside corner mounting points. The other corner of the mount is
lower than the pilot hole by about 1/8". After some careful re-measuring I find
my pilot holes are correctly positioned as per the plans, it is the engine
mount that is slightly longer top to bottom on one side. At first glance this
didn't present a problem until I realised that, if drilled to size the bolt
head on the offending corner would interfere with the (correctly located) steel
engine mount support. My question is, if I were to move the engine mount up
by about 1/8" to 3/16" to create sufficient clearance, would this cause problems
elsewhere i.e. cowl interference, thrust line etc? If so, any suggestions
for a fix?
Clive Whittfield
New Zealand
RV6 wings, tail feathers done, fuselage started
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DellAngelo, Scott M" <SDellAngelo@usg.com>
Opps I just latched into the must not be a tailwheel part.
Good luck,
Scott
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Time: 08:30:13 AM PST US
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: CFI
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch"
--> <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Thanks Scott, but the insurance company will not accept a 9A.
Vince
>From: "DellAngelo, Scott M" <SDellAngelo@usg.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: RE: CFI
>Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 07:13:57 -0600
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Floor Epoxy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I have a 60x65 hanger and I used "Hard Deck." It is UNGodly expensive,
miserable to apply, and worth every penny. The guy who built my hanger was
mad because he never did it, and it was a condition of the sale that I had
to paint the floor. He did me a favor.
I put on 2 coats of gray and one coat of clear. It is more durable than the
concrete below it.
The hanger was 5 years old so I had is shot blasted with steel shot, then we
painted. It was a miserable job, but not difficult. I used rollers. Buy a
good mask. The stuff is deadly. I can't recall exactly what it costs, but
my recollection was I used 20 gallons at $100 bucks per gallon. plus $750
for the shot blasting.
Big bucks, but worth every penny. 3 years later there is not a mark on it!
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Shop Floor Epoxy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
Just another data point...
I used the Rustoleum 2 part epoxy kit but got the INDUSTRIAL kit, not the
HOME OWNER kit. Last time I looked it wasn't even on the shelf, but I know
you can get it. This stuff is made for forklift traffic and is very
durable. Put it down prior to taking delivery of my wing kit 2 years ago. I
have slid engine pallets and Van's crates across it followed by a damp rag
and the marks are gone! Only a rock or nail will dig into it. It took 4
gallons total for a 3 car garage. Requires a respirator, a few paint
rollers and a couple days to throw away. Best $200 investment you can make
in a home. Anything less will not add value as it will look worn in just a
year.
Kelly Patterson
PHX, AZ
RV-6A N716K
Glass & FWF
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Michle,
I think that Paul was using air pressure as measured by a column of
water to test his tanks for leaks. At least that is what I assumed. My
comments to him assumed that because it is the procedure others haveI
used, and the one I used. The water manometer is merely a means of
measuring the air pressure, the difference in heights of water in the
U-shaped manometer. I know that some have filled their tanks with water
as a leak test,. Certainly, your comments apply in that case. The final
test is filling the tanks with 100LL. The pressure test is an effective
in process check that must pass if the tank is to be leak free.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by:
>
>I regret that this mail should dampen your enthusiasm but testing with water
>is not conclusive - OK as a first indicator, but not OK as far as gasoline
>is concerned. Problem with water is that it does not wet the metal hence
>surface tension will act as a miniature dam on small leak zones, whereas
>gasoline will seep through readily.
>
>You might want to add some wetting agent (soap, shampoo??) but I am not sure
>that this will make a significant difference.
>
>To check my tanks I put 5 gallons of 100LL (nice because it is blue) and let
>them sit 48 hours at a time in all possible positions (6 total). The only
>leak I found was a purge valve which not tightened enough. You can enhance
>the test by putting talcum powder on the outside - acts as a developer on
>gasoline seepage.
>
>Michle - RV8 - Wings
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Trotter
>>Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2005 3:14 AM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
>>
>>Richard,
>>
>>Thanks. I found that I was able to blow into the drain fitting while
>>pressing it in and was able to get about 24" of water height differential.
>>That should give me enough pressure to detect a leak. So far the first
>>tank
>>looks good. I'll leave it for a few days to make sure and then move on to
>>the next tank.
>>
>>
>>Paul
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>>>
>>>Hi Paul,
>>>
>>>I looked back in my log and recalled the following:
>>>I made a water manometer, about a 40 inch U of vinyl tubing filled with
>>>food colored water. I applied pressure with my breath and pinched off
>>>the tube. The differential height of water was in the vicinity of 26 to
>>>32 inches which translates to 1-2 psi over atmospheric pressure. ( I
>>>think that much more could distort the tank). I also noted variation in
>>>pressure with time which correlated very well with the temperature in
>>>the room. When the pressure did not decline over several days, I
>>>considered that I had no leaks. I did have problems initially with
>>>several leak sources. There was one rivet that was accessible through
>>>the inspection plate; there were leaks around the BNC connectors for the
>>>capacitive fuel quantity system which were also accessible and easily
>>>sealed, and worst of all, the fuel fillers were difficult to seal and
>>>contributed the worst leaks until I found a plumber's plug that could be
>>>inflated into the fuller neck and sealed that off.
>>> I am now flying and have had fuel in the tanks for about 3 months
>>>without any fuel leaks.
>>>
>>>Hope this is useful information.
>>>
>>>Regards,
>>>
>>>Richard Dudley
>>>-6A with 16 hours in Phase I
>>>
>>>Paul Trotter wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
>>>>
>>>>I am in the process of testing my fuel tanks for leaks. I am using the
>>>>method where I attach a clear plastic tube to one of the openings and
>>>>
>>>>
>>fill
>>
>>
>>>>it with water. I am curious as to what differential people see in the
>>>>height of the water on the 2 sides of the loop of tubing. With no back
>>>>pressure from a sealed tank, the level in both sides of the tube would
>>>>
>>>>
>>be
>>
>>
>>>>the same, however with the back pressure from the tank, you get a
>>>>
>>>>
>>little
>>bit
>>
>>
>>>>higher level on the side away from the tank. I am getting about a 5"
>>>>difference in water level using about a 6' loop of 3/8" tubing which
>>>>
>>>>
>>makes
>>
>>
>>>>reasonable sense since I'm not getting much pressure form that little
>>>>
>>>>
>>amount
>>
>>
>>>>of water. I'm just wondering what others have seen. Obviously as long
>>>>
>>>>
>>as
>>
>>
>>>>that differential remains, that I do not have any leaks in the tanks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>The
>>
>>
>>>>differential may vary slightly as temperature changes, and therefore
>>>>pressure inside the tank changes, but if there was a leak it would
>>>>
>>>>
>>equalize
>>
>>
>>>>to the same level. Does this make sense???
>>>>
>>>>PAul Trotter
>>>>RV-8 82080
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
Michle,
I agree with you to an extent. Fuel will find its way out of a leak faster
than water. However I am not putting water in the tank, just pressurizing
it slightly with air and using the water filled tube simply to measure any
change in pressure in the tank. Air molecules are fairly small, with little
if any surface tension, so they should leak faster than water or fuel. I
put about 1 PSI of pressure in the tank and it seems to remain fairly
stable, taking into account temperature and barometric pressure changes.
That being said, I will probably test with fuel at some point when the
weather gets better and I can do it outside. Playing with 5-10 gallons of
fuel in my basement probably isn't a good idea :-)
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
> --> RV-List message posted by:
>
> I regret that this mail should dampen your enthusiasm but testing with
water
> is not conclusive - OK as a first indicator, but not OK as far as gasoline
> is concerned. Problem with water is that it does not wet the metal hence
> surface tension will act as a miniature dam on small leak zones, whereas
> gasoline will seep through readily.
>
> You might want to add some wetting agent (soap, shampoo??) but I am not
sure
> that this will make a significant difference.
>
> To check my tanks I put 5 gallons of 100LL (nice because it is blue) and
let
> them sit 48 hours at a time in all possible positions (6 total). The only
> leak I found was a purge valve which not tightened enough. You can enhance
> the test by putting talcum powder on the outside - acts as a developer on
> gasoline seepage.
>
> Michle - RV8 - Wings
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Trotter
> > Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2005 3:14 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
> >
> > Richard,
> >
> > Thanks. I found that I was able to blow into the drain fitting while
> > pressing it in and was able to get about 24" of water height
differential.
> > That should give me enough pressure to detect a leak. So far the first
> > tank
> > looks good. I'll leave it for a few days to make sure and then move on
to
> > the next tank.
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
> > >
> > > Hi Paul,
> > >
> > > I looked back in my log and recalled the following:
> > > I made a water manometer, about a 40 inch U of vinyl tubing filled
with
> > > food colored water. I applied pressure with my breath and pinched off
> > > the tube. The differential height of water was in the vicinity of 26
to
> > > 32 inches which translates to 1-2 psi over atmospheric pressure. ( I
> > > think that much more could distort the tank). I also noted variation
in
> > > pressure with time which correlated very well with the temperature in
> > > the room. When the pressure did not decline over several days, I
> > > considered that I had no leaks. I did have problems initially with
> > > several leak sources. There was one rivet that was accessible through
> > > the inspection plate; there were leaks around the BNC connectors for
the
> > > capacitive fuel quantity system which were also accessible and easily
> > > sealed, and worst of all, the fuel fillers were difficult to seal and
> > > contributed the worst leaks until I found a plumber's plug that could
be
> > > inflated into the fuller neck and sealed that off.
> > > I am now flying and have had fuel in the tanks for about 3 months
> > > without any fuel leaks.
> > >
> > > Hope this is useful information.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Richard Dudley
> > > -6A with 16 hours in Phase I
> > >
> > > Paul Trotter wrote:
> > >
> > > >--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
> > > >
> > > >I am in the process of testing my fuel tanks for leaks. I am using
the
> > > >method where I attach a clear plastic tube to one of the openings and
> > fill
> > > >it with water. I am curious as to what differential people see in
the
> > > >height of the water on the 2 sides of the loop of tubing. With no
back
> > > >pressure from a sealed tank, the level in both sides of the tube
would
> > be
> > > >the same, however with the back pressure from the tank, you get a
> > little
> > bit
> > > >higher level on the side away from the tank. I am getting about a 5"
> > > >difference in water level using about a 6' loop of 3/8" tubing which
> > makes
> > > >reasonable sense since I'm not getting much pressure form that little
> > amount
> > > >of water. I'm just wondering what others have seen. Obviously as
long
> > as
> > > >that differential remains, that I do not have any leaks in the tanks.
> > The
> > > >differential may vary slightly as temperature changes, and therefore
> > > >pressure inside the tank changes, but if there was a leak it would
> > equalize
> > > >to the same level. Does this make sense???
> > > >
> > > >PAul Trotter
> > > >RV-8 82080
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
You're right Richard, that is what I am doing. The only difficulty is
determining if water height changes are do to leaks or changes in barometric
pressure or temperature. At 1 PSI, it doesn't take much temp or pressure
change to move the water column. The first night it changed very little,
then last night it dropped about 4" but we had a front come through so I
think that accounted for the change. I am doing both tanks simultaneously
as an additional check. I think it would be unlikely that both would leak
the same amount, so if the water height changes the same on both tanks, it
is likely due to temp or barometric pressure changes. I'll be away for a
few days so I am going to let it sit and see what it looks like when I get
back. SO far they both look good.
Thanks,
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Hi Michle,
>
> I think that Paul was using air pressure as measured by a column of
> water to test his tanks for leaks. At least that is what I assumed. My
> comments to him assumed that because it is the procedure others haveI
> used, and the one I used. The water manometer is merely a means of
> measuring the air pressure, the difference in heights of water in the
> U-shaped manometer. I know that some have filled their tanks with water
> as a leak test,. Certainly, your comments apply in that case. The final
> test is filling the tanks with 100LL. The pressure test is an effective
> in process check that must pass if the tank is to be leak free.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Clive;
It would appear your engine mount is the item at fault dimensionally. This
is not surprising as the thermal stresses involved in welding up a complex
steel tube structure can cause a fair degree of "springback" later on. Some
variation in final size is normal and to be expected.
Why not see if there is there is sufficient "flex" in your mount to make it
match the firewall hole pattern as per the plans? A temporary cargo strap or
similar item might help hold the desired size when you are preparing and
installing it. The minor stresses set up in doing this will be much less
than those seen in service due G loading, etc. so should not be a factor in
the end.
If a really large size adjustment is needed, judicious application of heat
from an oxy-acetylene torch will assist in tweaking the size but an
experienced aircraft tubing guy should probably tackle this.
Jim oke
Wpg, Can.
RV-6A C-GKGZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Engine mount
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
>
> A question from a Kiwi newbie. Currently in the process of building up
> the firewall of my slow build RV6 project and have struck a problem I'm
> hoping the list can provide some help with. I am using the (Vans
> supplied) engine mount to accurately locate the bolt holes. The mount
> lines up perfectly with the top two tooling holes and also with one of the
> pilot holes (#14) I have drilled for the bottom outside corner mounting
> points. The other corner of the mount is lower than the pilot hole by
> about 1/8". After some careful re-measuring I find my pilot holes are
> correctly positioned as per the plans, it is the engine mount that is
> slightly longer top to bottom on one side. At first glance this didn't
> present a problem until I realised that, if drilled to size the bolt head
> on the offending corner would interfere with the (correctly located) steel
> engine mount support. My question is, if I were to move the engine mount
> up by about 1/8" to 3/16" to create sufficient clearan!
> ce, would this cause problems elsewhere i.e. cowl interference, thrust
> line etc? If so, any suggestions for a fix?
>
>
> Clive Whittfield
>
> New Zealand
>
> RV6 wings, tail feathers done, fuselage started
>
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
I did my workshop with the Rustoleum 2-part epoxy, and am very
satisfied. No contest in the before and after comparison. It's durable,
easily cleaned and really brightens the interior. I live in the desert
so the orkshop gets a lot of wind-blown dust. Much easier to see and
sweep with the epoxy finish.
The key to success is careful adherence to the prep directions. Somewhat
a pain in the butt to keep going over the floor with a squeegee, but
worth the effort. I patched the cracks in the concrete - they "hide"
well under the epoxy but don't disappear. The confetti sprinkles are
easy to apply and provide a chance to customize the appearance. Work in
small segments and take your time. I did grey, but would do tan if I
could do over.
Paul Valovich
Ridgecrest, CA
RV-8A QB
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: Derrick Aubuchon <n184da@volcano.net>
If I remember correctly,,, while building my "very slow-build" RV4,, I
had a similar issue,, although I seem to recall it was probably a tad
worse.
As per the advice I had previously received from other builders at the
time, I did NOT drill any pilot holes in any of the six engine mount to
firewall locations.
I used the engine mount as a guide,, but in reference to your problem,
I do remember that none of the four tooling holes in the firewall
matched perfectly. What I did was to even-out the differences for all
four holes, before drilling through to the brackets.
Now,, depending on the size of your pre-drilled pilot holes, which I
assume you meant were drilled through the brackets along with the
firewall, this may not work for you.
And since the cowling as supplied at the time, was not even close to
fitting without some major re-work, the misalignment was not an issue
for the cowl.
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da@volcano.net
On Apr 4, 2005, at 8:24 AM, Jim Oke wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
> Clive;
>
> It would appear your engine mount is the item at fault dimensionally.
> This
> is not surprising as the thermal stresses involved in welding up a
> complex
> steel tube structure can cause a fair degree of "springback" later on.
> Some
> variation in final size is normal and to be expected.
>
> Why not see if there is there is sufficient "flex" in your mount to
> make it
> match the firewall hole pattern as per the plans? A temporary cargo
> strap or
> similar item might help hold the desired size when you are preparing
> and
> installing it. The minor stresses set up in doing this will be much
> less
> than those seen in service due G loading, etc. so should not be a
> factor in
> the end.
>
> If a really large size adjustment is needed, judicious application of
> heat
> from an oxy-acetylene torch will assist in tweaking the size but an
> experienced aircraft tubing guy should probably tackle this.
>
> Jim oke
> Wpg, Can.
> RV-6A C-GKGZ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Engine mount
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
>>
>> A question from a Kiwi newbie. Currently in the process of building
>> up
>> the firewall of my slow build RV6 project and have struck a problem
>> I'm
>> hoping the list can provide some help with. I am using the (Vans
>> supplied) engine mount to accurately locate the bolt holes. The mount
>> lines up perfectly with the top two tooling holes and also with one
>> of the
>> pilot holes (#14) I have drilled for the bottom outside corner
>> mounting
>> points. The other corner of the mount is lower than the pilot hole by
>> about 1/8". After some careful re-measuring I find my pilot holes are
>> correctly positioned as per the plans, it is the engine mount that is
>> slightly longer top to bottom on one side. At first glance this
>> didn't
>> present a problem until I realised that, if drilled to size the bolt
>> head
>> on the offending corner would interfere with the (correctly located)
>> steel
>> engine mount support. My question is, if I were to move the engine
>> mount
>> up by about 1/8" to 3/16" to create sufficient clearan!
>> ce, would this cause problems elsewhere i.e. cowl interference, thrust
>> line etc? If so, any suggestions for a fix?
>>
>>
>> Clive Whittfield
>>
>> New Zealand
>>
>> RV6 wings, tail feathers done, fuselage started
>>
>>
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Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Here's a couple of very interesting websites that the FAA is developing for
those of you who like to know all kinds of cool data and trivia...
www.nasdac.faa.gov
www.intlaviationstandards.org
W
search words: accident data, nomenclature, model designation rules
Message 12
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| Subject: | Rental out of Tampa |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Just a heads up if anyone wants a car out of Tampa for SNF. EZ Car Rental
(I know, bargain basement:-) has "economy" vehicles for $12 and change per
day, unlimited mileage. Sure hope all out camping stufrf and us kit in a
KIA!!!!!
For $12 bucks a day................I'll drive it and park it in the football
field at Lakeland.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
>From: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list@matronics.com'" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: FAA Websites
>Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 10:58:41 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
>
>Here's a couple of very interesting websites that the FAA is developing for
>those of you who like to know all kinds of cool data and trivia...
>
>www.nasdac.faa.gov
>
>www.intlaviationstandards.org
>
>W
>
>search words: accident data, nomenclature, model designation rules
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rental out of Tampa |
--> RV-List message posted by: Joe Bienkowski <joeb47@verizon.net>
Hello All,
EZ does quote a good rate, but how do you get from
the airport to EZ's service counter???
Joe
Dana Overall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>Just a heads up if anyone wants a car out of Tampa for SNF. EZ Car Rental
>(I know, bargain basement:-) has "economy" vehicles for $12 and change per
>day, unlimited mileage. Sure hope all out camping stufrf and us kit in a
>KIA!!!!!
>
>For $12 bucks a day................I'll drive it and park it in the football
>field at Lakeland.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Rental out of Tampa |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: Joe Bienkowski <joeb47@verizon.net>
>
>EZ does quote a good rate, but how do you get from
>the airport to EZ's service counter???
>Joe
They have a shuttle.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
>From: Joe Bienkowski <joeb47@verizon.net>
>
>EZ does quote a good rate, but how do you get from
>the airport to EZ's service counter???
>Joe
Message 15
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| Subject: | Rental out of Tampa |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Just a heads up if anyone wants a car out of Tampa for SNF.
> EZ Car Rental
> (I know, bargain basement:-) has "economy" vehicles for $12
> and change per
> day, unlimited mileage. Sure hope all out camping stufrf and
> us kit in a
> KIA!!!!!
Be careful, the taxes will probably be more than the rental. Some fees are
flat, some percentage. Best to get a full up estimate from them. I've had
the price almost double from the taxes/fees (which in this case is still not
bad).
Do not archive
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 608 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Jim Oke wrote:
> <>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
> Clive;
>
> It would appear your engine mount is the item at fault dimensionally.
> This
> is not surprising as the thermal stresses involved in welding up a
> complex
> steel tube structure can cause a fair degree of "springback" later on.
> Some
> variation in final size is normal and to be expected.
>
Mine did flex enough, give it a try!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E" <richard.j.gould@navy.mil>
> No, they just shut it down for more on station time looking for us
> submariners.
> No contest . . . the submariners win every time!!
>
> Regards, Bob
There's a Russian Oscar sub-driver who may quietly deny that claim. Have ta kill
you if I told you about it though. Now-a-days, the only exciting flight I've
gotten to do is fly combat sorties over the Balkans and drug interdiction in
the Caribbean.
Besides, I doubt any airplane has ever been shotdown by a sub. I don't think subs
can make the same claim.
(Here we go, someone out there will probably correct me with a story about some
crazy German WWII sub-driver who shot down a PBY with Luger, or something....)
> Did your P-3 lose an engine?
Nope, its right where I left it!
In the old days, it was more common to look like this:
__I__
--X--O--( )--O--X--
I remember a story of an EA-6B driver that flew with us one time and we went to
loiter #1 (shut it down for fuel) and offered to let him shut it down. Even after
insisting that it was okay, he wouldn't do it. "I'm used to having all engines
running--That just ain't natural!" was something along the lines of his
comment. The FE smiles, calls, "Check me One!", Pilot: "You got one!", and the
FE yanks the E-Handle. 5 seconds later, #1 is X'd.
You're jaw would probably drop if I told you haw many times I've made an emergency
3-engine landing....I've lost count!
Ho hum...house hunting on Whidbey Island for something with a garage to build.
Anyone got hangar space up here?!
Rick
"I love the smell of JP-8 in the morning. It smells like.....Lockheed!"
Message 18
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| Subject: | Rental out of Tampa |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Got all my travel on Cheaptickets.com. $ 582.00 roundtrip from Austin, hotel and
rental car...
All taxes and fees included...
Alex Peterson <alexpeterson@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall"
>
> Just a heads up if anyone wants a car out of Tampa for SNF.
> EZ Car Rental
> (I know, bargain basement:-) has "economy" vehicles for $12
> and change per
> day, unlimited mileage. Sure hope all out camping stufrf and
> us kit in a
> KIA!!!!!
Be careful, the taxes will probably be more than the rental. Some fees are
flat, some percentage. Best to get a full up estimate from them. I've had
the price almost double from the taxes/fees (which in this case is still not
bad).
Do not archive
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 608 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A #70125
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 4/4/05 3:45:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time, cazw@ihug.co.nz
writes:
> <>
>
> Clive: Yes! Call, fax or E-mail Van's with the information you just
> provided and ask their advice.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6, 56 hours and loving every minute of it.
Message 20
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| Subject: | FAB airbox line up with induction scoop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
Tom,
I have an older RV-6A about to fly with the same separate induction
scoop and an AFP fuel injection. Like your Lycoming, my carb/fuel
controller is offset to the left of the engine centerline an inch or so.
I mounted the induction scoop on the lower cowl centerline and shifted
the top plate of the FAB to align it with the scoop. The AFP provided
top plate will turn on the AFP fuel controller to allow the FAB to be
aimed right or left a few degrees - just loosen the Allen screw on the
AFP top plate collar.
I have an 0-320 and ordered the 0-320 scoop from Vans. However, it would
not fit as the AFP fuel controller is about an inch deeper than a carb.
I had to use an 0-360 scoop which fit with only minor modifications to
the lower cowl indentations. I turned the top plate about 5 degrees
right to aim the FAB directly at the scoop entrance. Air will have to
jog a bit to the left as it enters the FAB, but you can't see the
difference from the outside and I can't see how the "jog" will have any
effect on induction air flow. Sure a lot easier than remaking the top
plate or mounting the scoop off-center.
Charlie
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
----------------------------------------------------
> Time: 06:32:37 AM PST US
> From: sarg314
> Subject: RV-List: FAB airbox line up with induction scoop
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314
>
> My RV-6A kit is about 5 years old and the induction scoop is separate
> from the lower cowl. I have to bond it in. The lower cowl has a
> depression molded into it to accept the "flange" of the induction
> scoop. I learned yesterday that the carbuerator mounting location on a
> Lycoming is not on the centerline but is offset to the left a 1/2 or 3/4
> of an inch, relative to the cowl, anyway.
>
> One could mount the induction scoop to the lower cowl shifted off center
> a bit to make it line up with the carb (well, with the AFP fuel
> controller in my case).
>
> But one could also compensate for this by making a new top plate for the
> Filtered Air Box that has the central mounting hole displaced to the
> left by half an inch. Do people normally do this? Is this a bad idea?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
>
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