Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:47 AM - Re: External Power Socket (Jeff Point)
2. 04:28 AM - E-mag/P-mag (Charles Heathco)
3. 04:50 AM - propeller protection (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
4. 05:28 AM - Re: External power socket (Kosta Lewis)
5. 05:50 AM - E-Mag/P-Mag (David Burden)
6. 06:00 AM - Re: Re: External power socket (Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers)
7. 06:04 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 04/05/05 (james f george)
8. 06:08 AM - Re: Re: External power socket (Ron Lee)
9. 06:23 AM - Re: E-Mag/P-Mag (Ron Lee)
10. 06:46 AM - Re: Source of supply - Mar-hyde primer (spray can) (LarryRobertHelming)
11. 10:35 AM - Re: Polishing scratches (czechsix@juno.com)
12. 03:50 PM - Re Engine mount (Clive Whittfield)
13. 05:00 PM - Re: propeller protection (RGray67968@aol.com)
14. 05:03 PM - S_N_F Vans get together ?? (Charles Rowbotham)
15. 08:04 PM - Reusing nuts? (MLWynn@aol.com)
16. 08:58 PM - Re: Reusing nuts? (Tedd McHenry)
17. 10:01 PM - Langley Fly-in 2005 (Tedd McHenry)
18. 10:08 PM - AOA with Microcontroller... (Matt Johnson)
19. 11:29 PM - Re: Engine Mount (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
20. 11:40 PM - Gascolater (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: External Power Socket |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I accomlished the same thing with an old heavy-gauge extension cord.
Cut it in half, attached the + and - wires to the battery. Hang the
plug so it is accesable through the oil door. The other half of the
cord is modified to attach to a charger, and is carried in the
"emergency tool kit" in the plane at all times. Won't handle jump
starting currents, but you shouldn't launch with a completely dead
battery anyway.
Lighter and cheaper and easier than a power receptacle, especially for
something you will use only very occasionally.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Due to long wait time to get these, I had my mags OH'd and am considering getting
in line to buy E/P mags but wanted to see how they were working for the ones
who have rec and installed them. Last I saw, several had them on order. Pls
reply via my e-mail if you can. cheathco@comcast.net Charlie Heathco
Message 3
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| Subject: | propeller protection |
0.50 MIME_BASE64_LATIN RAW: Latin alphabet text using base64 encoding
0.30 MIME_BASE64_TEXT RAW: Message text disguised using base64 encoding
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Chuck,
I wonder if one could use UHMW tape? From "The List" on Van's web site:
TAPE UHMW 3"X10' CLEAR UHMW 4/6/7/8 $11.00
It doesn't have the center line, but I'll bet it's the same stuff....
Fred Stucklen
Time: 04:02:25 PM PST US
From: "Charles Rowbotham" < crowbotham@hotmail.com
<mailto:crowbotham@hotmail.com> >
Subject: propeller protection
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <
crowbotham@hotmail.com <mailto:crowbotham@hotmail.com> >
Evan,
We installed " Prop Guard " tape about 3 years ago and have put 250+
hours
on our C/S prop. The Prop looks new - we also have the same problem
except
the State will not sweep the taxi or runways. I'd recommend it. In
addition
it is easy to install, with fine guide lines marked on the tape.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: External power socket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for
charging,
>jump starting after leaving master on, etc).If so, what, where, how?
Other >thoughts?
I used a connector for trailer hookup on a car/truck that is used for
hooking up trailer lights. I have it on the left side of the console and
have the wires placed to avoid pole reversal. It is lightweight,
inexpensive, readily available, unobtrusive and can be mounted
externally if necessary. The 'female' socket only goes in one way, and
can handle charging currents without worry about over-amping the wires.
It is wired directly to the battery with a 30 amp fuse in the way. I
carry the charging attachment with me (female plug) and have used it on
the road once. Wouldn't be without it, especially in a -4 where the
battery is buried under the radio stack and center console.
The 'male' fitting that goes on the console (or wherever) needs to be
covered (simple aluminum plate) as this is a live connection and can
short out if touched by, say, a leg zipper on a flight suit. Ask me how
I know that. Gets your attention right away. The fuse needs to be easily
accessible.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: David Burden <hootsnik@sbcglobal.net>
Listers,
I am nearing the engine phase on my RV9A project and need some info prior to deciding
on the final configuration of the power plant.
Current plans for my ECI Lyc clone call for a Plasma III electronic ignition on
one side and a standard mag on the other. The Lightspeed has a seperate computer
controller which has to be mounted in the cabin which creates some complexity
and adds weight while the emag is self contained. There is also an attractive
difference in the cost of the emag vs the Lightspeed.
What I don't have is any real world performance/reliability info regarding the
emag/pmag system. Anybody out there have an emag or the emag/pmag combo with
significant time on them who can share some real world experience: time on system,
install difficulty, failure rate, performance, would you buy again, what
about customer support?
Cheers,
db
ps. I checked the archive--limited info.
Message 6
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| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: External power socket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net>
Michael,
Why didn't you install the female fitting in the aircraft? For safety
reasons almost every other type of appliance and electrical recepticals has
the female portion mounted with the contacts sheilded from accidently
contact. Was there a reason for doing it your way?
Wayne
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
>>Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for
> charging,
>>jump starting after leaving master on, etc).If so, what, where, how?
> Other >thoughts?
>
> I used a connector for trailer hookup on a car/truck that is used for
> hooking up trailer lights. I have it on the left side of the console and
> have the wires placed to avoid pole reversal. It is lightweight,
> inexpensive, readily available, unobtrusive and can be mounted
> externally if necessary. The 'female' socket only goes in one way, and
> can handle charging currents without worry about over-amping the wires.
> It is wired directly to the battery with a 30 amp fuse in the way. I
> carry the charging attachment with me (female plug) and have used it on
> the road once. Wouldn't be without it, especially in a -4 where the
> battery is buried under the radio stack and center console.
>
> The 'male' fitting that goes on the console (or wherever) needs to be
> covered (simple aluminum plate) as this is a live connection and can
> short out if touched by, say, a leg zipper on a flight suit. Ask me how
> I know that. Gets your attention right away. The fuse needs to be easily
> accessible.
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 04/05/05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: james f george <rv4george@juno.com>
Hi All:
It is best to do let downs at about 4000 or 5000 feet on the
first flight. You not only get
used to the plane but also reveal any faults that show up. You can't hit
the ground up there.
Jim
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: External power socket |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
My plane has a single Positive connecting wire at the bottom of the cowl.
Negative is the exhaust. Hook up the charger to those two points and you
can recharge. Simple. Light weight.
Ron Lee
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
I have perhaps 400 hours on a Plasma III and would install it again.
Works great. Control box is in the engine compartment on the firewall.
One problem that was apparently some sort of pin connection issue that
cleared after reseating the connector. Support was great during the
troubleshooting period.
As far as weight, add up the total for the plasma and the emag unit and
compare.
Ron Lee
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Source of supply - Mar-hyde primer (spray can) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I recall a top coat of paint is needed over the SW 988 primer.
Friends are like angels who lift us to our feet
when our wings have trouble remembering how to fly....unknown
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up
> --> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
>
> John,
>
> I just switched to Sherwin Williams 988 in the can it is great stuff!!!
> I
> used to use the Mar-Hyde.
>
> I found it in the phone book in Portland under Sherwin Williams
> Automotive.
>
> We just painted all the rudder parts for the RV-10 with it and it is very
> durable and dries fast. I might never mix primer or clean a gun again!
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing scratches |
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Rick,
I hate to even suggest this, but are you sure you didn't sand/buff through the
thin alclad layer in an effort to remove the scratches? It doesn't take very
much, and unfortunately if you did, it will NEVER buff out to the same high luster
as the surrounding alclad...even if you get it just as smooth, the aluminum
alloy has a slightly darker color to it than the pure aluminum on the surface.
I hope this is not your problem but if it is, you'll just have to make it
shine as well as you can and live with it : (
I have a polished spinner for my -8A and that's enough polish for me! Anything
more and you have to be a real masochist to maintain it...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D wiring...
From: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Polishing scratches
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
What is the best way to eliminate minor surface defects and scratches in aluminum
then buff same to a very high luster? I have used 2000 grit wet or dry to
remove scratches on the affected airframe areas then applied Nuvite in one section
and Mothers aluminum polish in another. I then buff out using a dedicated
wool bonnet attached to my DeWalt electric buffer. I really can't say which product
produces the highest luster. Both seem the same to me. In any event, I
am still not happy with the depth of luster when compared to a pristine and polished
alclad surface right next to it. What techniques should I be using to
make the aluminum shine as bright as it possibly can?
Rick Galati RV-6A "finished, not yet flying"
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
Many thanks to those who replied to my question about the engine mount. I also
put the question to Vans who recommended moving the mount up the required 1/8"
to provide bolt clearance. I have decided to do this and all seems to be well
so far. For those who suggested 'tweaking' the mount to fit with cargo straps
etc, I doubt this would work on this particular mount as there are tubes welded
vertically and horizontally between the mounting holes that would not allow
any movement (Dynafocal mount on plan 50). This thing is solid!
Clive Whittfield RV6 fuselage
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: propeller protection |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Here's the real deal on the prop tape from someone who's been
there........Don't waste your time with the UHMW tape...it's NOT the same....not
even close.
The 'prop' tape is soft and pliable, the UHMW is hard and stiff. The UHMW tape
WILL start to peel on the edges in VERY short order.
OK.....I've run the course on the prop tape. I use the 'less expensive' type
that is MADE FOR PROPS.
I get my tape from Tennessee Props in Tennessee. Ask for Larry....tell him
'the RV guy from Ohio sent you'.....smile.
The first 2 times I put the tape on it came off in about 7-8 hours of flying.
Actually, it didn't come off but it started to separate from one blade near
the tip and I just ripped it off. I was using PPG 330 solvent to prep the prop
before applying the tape. On the 3rd (and final so far) attempt I used
isopropyl alcohol as recommended by Larry and the tape has now been on for about
100
hours and is still holding like the day I put it on and IMO it looks great.
One BIG tip......radius the 'corners' before you put the tape on......looks
nice and prevents the 'corner' (now radiused) from lifting.
Bottom line is I like the way the tape protects my leading edge and even if
it comes off tomorrow I'll replace it with new. My Hartzell leading edge looks
like new after 100hrs....no nicks, scratches, or blemishes on the leading
edge....period.
However.....from trial/error AND speed tests I am very confident that my
O-360 Hartzell C/S RV6 is about 5-7 mph FASTER with NO prop tape. That said I'm
still leaving it on.
I 'think' Larry charges 2 bucks per foot for the tape.
Here's a link to the website.....I can't find the tape on there but he has
it. Just call the phone number and he'll send it right out. Buy about 8 ft for
$16 bucks + shipping and you can do your prop 2 times.
http://www.tn-prop.com/
You can also spend a BUNCH more buckaroos and get the REAL DEAL tape that is
made for the metal prop (my opinion.....NO THANKS)......it's basically the
same 3M tape near as I can tell but twice the money. It's called "Prop
Guard"......Spruce sells it on page 168 of the 2005 catalog.....or go here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/propguard.php
Looks like ~$50 bucks with shipping.
The are both 3M tape........Tennessee Prop stuff may be a tad 'thicker'.
Also, I had the SAME experience as the other gent with the tape on my
previous Warnke prop (love that Hartzell).......I lost 10mph on the top end and
500'
to 600' on the rate of climb.....right now!! I could live with the speed loss
but not the rate of climb....no thanks.....I took it off.
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
Chuck,
I wonder if one could use UHMW tape? From "The List" on Van's web site:
TAPE UHMW 3"X10' CLEAR UHMW 4/6/7/8 $11.00
It doesn't have the center line, but I'll bet it's the same stuff....
Message 14
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| Subject: | S_N_F Vans get together ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Any plans for a get together at Sun-N-Fun ??
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi folks,
Just got done bolting the center hinge to the horizontal stabilizer. Figured
out when it looked funny that I used the wrong washers. Changed them for the
correct ones and then got to worrying if it is okay to use the same nylon
locking nuts again. Thoughts?
Michael
RV8
Empennage
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Reusing nuts? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 MLWynn@aol.com wrote:
--snip--
> got to worrying if it is okay to use the same nylon locking nuts again.
> Thoughts?
Michael:
AC 43.13 says, "When fiber-type self-locking nuts are reused, check the fiber
carefully to make sure it has not lost its locking friction or become brittle.
Do not reuse locknuts if they can be run up finger-tight."
Carroll Smith ("Prepare to Win") says, "They [nylon locknuts] are reusable
almost indefinitely. The rule of thumb is that if the steel thread is not
visibly damaged and you cannot turn the nylon locking ring onto the bolt with
your fingers, it is OK."
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 17
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| Subject: | Langley Fly-in 2005 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
The fourth annual Langley (BC) Fly-in will be held on Saturday, June 4, 2005,
at the Langley Township Regional Airport (CYNJ). Langley is about 20 nm
northwest of Bellingham, WA.
This is the annual fly-in for the Western Canada Wing.
Keep an eye on the Fly-in web page for details,
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ
U.S. visitors will find a link there to Randall Henderson's excellent web page
that tells you everything you need to know about flying to Canada and returning
to the U.S. We love to have U.S. RVers fly in, and I hope to see many of you
there again this year.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd@vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
Message 18
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| Subject: | AOA with Microcontroller... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Has anyone created an AOA using a Microcontroller such as the PIC, AVR or Basic
Stamp?
- Matt
Message 19
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| Subject: | RE: Engine Mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
I shot a Thanksgiving weekend on this one Clive. I have an RV-6A and waited
until I got my engine mount to drill the firewall holes. Problem was, the
upper left motor mount mounting boss was too high and if I just drilled it
through the firewall I'd also have interference of the bolt head with the
firewall weldment. So I talked to people on the phone, visited a few
projects and realized that those folks who took it on faith that the mount
would line up and went ahead and drilled pilot holes for jigging, without
having the motor mount, often had problems later that resulted in having to
final drill the mount offset one way or another.
So I came away thinking I'd just move all the mounting holes down until the
top mounting hole had sufficient clearance. Ha...ya right, I measured down
and realized I could only move the bottom down about 1/8 to 3/16 before I'd
start having troubles with clearance on the BOTTOM bolt hole. So I looked
at the prints and measured the firewall bracket locations and the motor
mount bolt hole locations and...just my luck, both the mounting bosses and
the firewall brackets were out of tolerance in opposite directions. This
really exacerbated the problem.
Now really upset that I wasted 3-4 days with this (when I was expecting to
drill the firewall and mount it on the jig and get on with some serious
fuselage construction), I took the whole thing down to Van's and plopped it
on their counter. I wanted THEM to fix the bracket on the firewall so that
the mount would actually fit. After all it was their vendors (or them)
who'd screwed both things up to begin with and I'd already paid them to
fabricate this part in the first place. They wouldn't do that but instead,
offered to give me a new steel weldment to replace the culprit on the back
of the firewall (gee thanks). They also suggested one other thing and that
was to see if the mount had enough play in it to allow the hole to be
drilled slightly offset to obtain the needed bolt clearance.
Needless to say, I left there very unhappy but went home to see if the mount
had any play to work with. Fortunately the -6A motor mount has both upper
arms independent at the firewall (no interconnecting tubes between them and
the lower arms as on the taildragger mount) and viola, if I clamped the
other mounting bosses to the firewall I could move the upper left mounting
arm down just enough to make the hole clear. So I held it in that position
and marked the hole. Then measured to make sure I had the clearance and
finally drilled. Now that I've mounted the mount, it has a small amount of
preload on the upper left arm. But steel is capable of handling this and I
can move it to that position by hand so it's not like there is a lot of
force on it. Nonetheless, it was just one more frustration in the process
of building that I could have done without (parts that could have been
designed with a bit more clearance or prefab parts that required major
modification, ask me about my canopy frame). Hope you can make your motor
mount work, I'd hate to think about having to rework a firewall weldment
after riveting the fuselage together!! Yes Sam, you can thank me again for
getting all the out-of-tolerance parts in my kit.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wiring and plumbing
Time: 03:43:52 AM PST US
From: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Engine mount
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
A question from a Kiwi newbie. ...........if drilled to size the bolt
head on the offending corner would interfere with the (correctly located)
steel engine mount support.
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
You folks running fuel injected engines and especially you guys with Airflow
Performance pump and filter....are you using a gascolater in the fuel line
and if so where and what has your experience been with it? A fellow RV-9A
builder suggested that he would probably eliminate the gascolater because
the AFP filter is very good and the gascolator is yet another item of line
friction (along with the multiple 180 degree tubing bends in the AFP
installation in the side by side airplanes) that he suspects may make for
possible vapor lock conditions on hot days. What are your experiences with
this set up? Would you recommend leaving the gascolator off with the AFP
fuel filter or .....what? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Getting off my previous rant
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