Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:34 AM - Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? (Jeff Point)
2. 06:18 AM - Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? (Charles Rowbotham)
3. 06:54 AM - Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? ()
4. 07:59 AM - Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? (Darrell Reiley)
5. 08:39 AM - Re: Lightspeed vs. E/P-Mag (Konrad L. Werner)
6. 08:39 AM - Re: I Like my P-Mags (early report) (son hoang)
7. 10:21 AM - E-Mag/P-May info from AeroElectric-List (Joe & Jan Connell)
8. 11:29 AM - Re: Wheel pants mounting (Mickey Coggins)
9. 12:23 PM - Paint for Cowls (Walter Tondu)
10. 12:30 PM - Re: Use of Lock-tite? (Bob C.)
11. 01:09 PM - Re: Lightspeed vs. E/P-Mag ()
12. 02:27 PM - Re: Paint for Cowls (Jeff Dowling)
13. 03:17 PM - Re: Paint for Cowls (Mark Rose)
14. 04:18 PM - Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
15. 04:33 PM - Re: Paint for Cowls (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
16. 05:30 PM - Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? (Jeff Point)
17. 05:42 PM - Re: Paint for Cowls (Larry Bowen)
18. 07:50 PM - Re:Paint for Cowls (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
19. 07:55 PM - Re: I Like my P-Mags (early report) (Vanremog@aol.com)
20. 08:07 PM - Re: Re:Paint for Cowls (Brian Kraut)
21. 08:10 PM - Re: MP (Vanremog@aol.com)
22. 08:12 PM - Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
23. 08:22 PM - EL Panel Lights (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Apparently not. Let's get one started. I'll be there Tues through Fri
morning.
Jeff Point
do not archive
>Any plans for a get together at Sun-N-Fun ??
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Agreed.
I plan on being there the entire week..
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: S_N_F Vans get together ??
>Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2005 02:32:36 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>Apparently not. Let's get one started. I'll be there Tues through Fri
>morning.
>
>Jeff Point
>do not archive
>
> >Any plans for a get together at Sun-N-Fun ??
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
I'll be there from late Thursday to Sunday afternoon.
Charlie Kuss
do not archieve
---- Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>
> Agreed.
>
> I plan on being there the entire week..
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A
>
> >From: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: S_N_F Vans get together ??
> >Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2005 02:32:36 -0500
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
> >
> >Apparently not. Let's get one started. I'll be there Tues through Fri
> >morning.
> >
> >Jeff Point
> >do not archive
> >
> > >Any plans for a get together at Sun-N-Fun ??
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
I will be there with Jeff from Austin Thursday - Saturday...
Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point
Apparently not. Let's get one started. I'll be there Tues through Fri
morning.
Jeff Point
do not archive
>Any plans for a get together at Sun-N-Fun ??
>
>
>
>
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A #70125
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
Show us what our next emoticon should look like. Join the fun.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed vs. E/P-Mag |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Let me try this again:
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed vs. E/P-Mag
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Has anyone ever compared the performance gains between the Lightspeed- and the
E/P-Mag Electronic Ignition Systems.
Would there be a drawback OR benefit in mixing both systems (E/P-Mag & Lightspeed)
on one's engine?
Just curious about combining different E.I. Systems, which "may" fire a different
settings. Good or Bad in terms of harmonic Vibration, etc.
How does a single Lightspeed affect the same when running next to a fixed Mag?
Hmmm?
Konrad
Do Not Archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: I Like my P-Mags (early report) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "son hoang" <son@hoangs.com>
Thanks for the report
It is very timely for me since I am about to order the P mags (plan to do it
on Monday)...
how long does it take you to install them ?
is it as simple as they claim ?
Son N64SH
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: I Like my P-Mags (early report)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
> I know that many are interested in hearing reports from those of us who
have
> converted from original magnetos to the E-Mag and P-Mag electronic
> ignitions. I have just completed the retrofit of two P-Mags, replacing
the original
> Slick magnetos on my O-360-A1A, new in 1997. I have only one half-hour
flight
> on my dual P-Mags last Saturday on which to base my initial observations.
>
> Also be advised that I installed a new ignition harness and new plugs
> (REM37BY gapped at .030" replacing REM38E gapped at .019") at the same
time. I
> installed two P-Mags because I like the full redundancy they provide and
I fly
> over the pointy stuff a lot. The system installed was about 1 lb lighter
than
> the system it replaced with the moment arm being 42". The system and
wiring
> was simple to install and there are only minor things that I would add to
> the installation manual. One change I would recommend is the use of the
larger
> gaskets (with upper and lower ears that also encompass the studs) rather
> than using the smaller (ring only) gaskets that were provided with the
> ignitions. The drive gear that is available from E-Mag appears to be a
high quality
> part and is needed if you originally had a impulse coupled magneto on one
> side. The ignition harness wires were a little short for my liking. The
P-Mag
> system for Constant speed prop use requires a Manifold Pressure source
from
> the engine.
>
> So far, my impression is that this is a very good performing ignition
system
> as far as engine smoothness is concerned. Now, the four cylinder
Lycomings
> have seldom been accused of being smooth running engines and the fixed 25
> degree BTDC advance has never fostered quick changes in throttle
position.
> Having said that, my O-360 was dynamically balanced by Dave Morss at time
zero,
> has been running exceptionally well as flat fours go and my oil analyses
> (originally Howard Fenton and now done by Blackstone Labs) since day one
have all
> been outstanding.
>
> With the new P-Mags, the engine felt much much smoother during
acceleration,
> cruise and deceleration than it ever had with the magneto ignitions. The
> engine also takes throttle much better. Engine CHT, EGT and oil temps
remain
> basically unchanged but it seems that the engine runs stronger and spins
up
> readily. I'm getting 185 mph at 23 square burning 9.5 gph at 5000 ft
MSL.
>
> I'm currently getting a little ignition noise in the radio and Brad Dement
> at E-Mag has advised me to perform some easy checks this weekend and get
back
> to him with what I've found.
>
> I will be putting more time on the plane this weekend and will provide any
> additional info as I get it.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon
Valley,
> CA)
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | E-Mag/P-May info from AeroElectric-List |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rv-9a-online <rv-9a-online@telus.net>
Direct from Emagair:
-snip-
Listed below are some of the more visible refinements we are implementing in
the current series (designated E-112 and P-112). We will revise all
current orders to reflect this change in designation.
1. Overall ignition frame length will be 6.15". This is 1/3" longer than the
111 series. Previously, the nose and main case sections were threaded
together (with Locktite) which made servicing the ignitions difficult, and
in some cases impossible. It also made the orientation between these
sections hard to control. In the 112 series, they will be secured
internally with 6 bolts, which necessitates the small case extension. As
before, installations with firewall clearance issues (primarily canards)
have the option of detaching the coil from the ignition, and mounting it on
the firewall. In this configuration, the ignition is only 3" deep.
2. The Mode Switch has been moved from the connector head to a DIP switch
accessible by removing a threaded plug on the side of the ignition case.
This will facilitate more efficient manufacturing, and will better protect
the switch. The 111 series mode switch was occasionally getting damaged by
customers when the screw driver used to secure the connector scraped across
the face of the switch.
3. The aircraft harness is now offered as standard 5/8"-24 aircraft spark
plug connectors (cigarette and spring) that are pre-installed on the ends of
our auto lead kit. This has several advantages.
a. It eliminates the need (and expense) of Aircraft Coil Adapters ($45.00)
per ignition. (This charge will be deleted from affected orders.)
b. It permits the use of our low profile 90 degree connections on the coil
end. This reduces the overall length of the aircraft ignition/harness by
1.25". The length of the earlier aircraft harness was preventing some
builders who wanted to use aircraft plugs from doing so.
c. It permits greater flexibility as leads can be routed and trimmed to
length according to individual preferences. Spark plug terminals and boots
are field installed. A terminal crimping tool is included with the kit at
no extra charge. Note: Auto leads use noise suppressive wire in lieu of a
grounded shield. We've had no reports of noise problems from customers
using the auto harness. Even so, builders have the option, if needed, of
adding a shield over the leads and ground them at the spark plug connector.
4. The DIP switch referenced in 2 above will also let customers set the tack
output for either one or two pulses per revolution. Customers will no
longer need to research this item and report back so we can program an
appropriate setup. Also, if the tack is later changed to a different
style, any needed changes can be made on the spot.
5. Unlike the 111 series, the tack lead will have a pull up resistor built
into the unit. It will produce a 12 volt tack pulse. Instruments that need
a 5 volt signal will be able to reduce the voltage by adding an external
diode (not provided).
6. The DIP switch will also let customers set the baseline timing for 20 or
25 degrees at installation. This will eliminates the need for customers to
investigate and report back when ordering their ignition.
7. The mounting flange has been sized so existing magneto mounting clips can
be reused. The 111 series flange was slightly undersized which required us
to provide custom fitted clips. If you do not have mounting clips to reuse,
just let us know and we will add a set(s) to your order ($15/set).
Vern Little
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Erich,
I think you have it right. The thing you want to watch for
in the rear is that there should be enough clearance when
you are doing a nice, slow, tail-low landing. If you can
tip the tail down to the ground, and the wheel pants still
have a bit of clearance, then you are good.
I've seen -A models with dirt and grass stuck in
the tail tiedown ring, so keep in mind that the tail
*can* get low!
Mickey
erichweaver@cox.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <erichweaver@cox.net>
>
> Greetings. Im a newby hip-deep in a RV-7A project that was well
> along before the previous builder passed away. Anywho, am mounting
> wheel pants and trying to stay true to the manual as best I can. I
> established a 1-inch clearance on top of my 14-inch tires using a
> wood block, but with this clearance, I do not get the 8+ inches
> specified in the plans, as measured from the ground up to the
> midpoint of the trailing edge on the aft portion of the wheel pant,
> and also on the other end, from the ground up to the nose of the
> front portion of the fairing. Im off around 3/4 of an inch, and I
> have the plane leveled and jacked up as required.
>
> Im thinking that the big picture is to get the wheel pant with the
> proper clearance from the top of the tire, and also lined up with the
> airflow - i.e. level! I think Ive done this, as the distance from
> the nose of the wheel pant to the ground is the same as the distnace
> from the center of the trailing edge to the ground. This would lead
> me to not worry too much about the 3/4 inch discrepancy from the
> plans. Would feel better if someone would agree with me
> though....Hope I described things well enough for you all to follow
> along.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
For those of you with prior epoxy fiberglass painting experience;
What type of primer should I spray my fiberglass/epoxy cowling
with so that I won't have any issues with final painting sometime
down the road. A high-fill primer would be good as I would like
to get rid of all these pin-holes. Also, I want to paint the interior
of the cowl white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
I seem to remember a thread a while back where some proficient
painters expressed their opinions about what paints "Not" to use,
but I cannot find that thread.
Thanks,
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Moving to Hangar in one week.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Use of Lock-tite? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Not necessarily having anything to do with "Loctite" . . .
But, he biggest unprotected risk that I see are AN Fittings, many of
which are critical!
They are not safetied in any way . . . in most cases you can't get a
torque wrench on them so torque is "by feel"!
What am I not understanding here!?
Thanks,
Bob
On Apr 7, 2005 8:03 PM, Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
>
> Michael,
> I don't recall mention of Lock-tite in the Hardware and Fasteners class
> at A&P school. The product has many useful applications but I can't
> think of any that involve airplanes. (I'll just issue an "I stand
> corrected." statement right now as someone is sure to give an example.
> Thank you for keeping me honest.) Instead, we use a variety of other
> means to safety nuts, bolts, screws, turnbuckles or anything that might
> work loose. Nylon lock nuts, all metal lock nuts, castle nuts with
> cotter pins, safety wire through drilled bolt heads and jam nuts are the
> best examples.
>
> There is a book that you may wish to pick up. Standard Aircraft
> Handbook by Aero ISBN0-8306-8634-7 Your local book store can order it
> for you or you might find one it Ebay. It is packed full of useful
> information and I recommend it for a new builder. I even recommend it to
> veteran builders.
>
> Mark
> 7 empanage
>
> MLWynn@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
> >
> >As a side question, do many of you add lock-tite or similar to these sorts
> >of nuts and bolts?
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Michael Wynn
> >RV-8 Empennage
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed vs. E/P-Mag |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Konrad:
There is a lot of info on the web and from electronic ignition (EI) makers web
sites. One of the best references is from the Caf Foundation I refer to below.
>From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
>Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed vs. E/P-Mag
> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" \<klwerner@comcast.net>
>
>Has anyone ever compared the performance gains between the Lightspeed-
>and the E/P-Mag Electronic Ignitions. I just wonder if the E-P Mag has anywhere
near >the same performance improvement that Lightspeed claims (which I do believe!)
?
All the EI brands: LASAR, LightSpeed and Electroair make approx the same claim
or have verified flight-tested data. An overall 6% performance gain and 2% increase
in cruise fuel economy is not unrealistic. However that is at the high end,
and your mileage may vary. Sloppy leaning (too rich) will eat up economy gains,
and max lean economy will not produce as much performance gains. Overall
any EI will improve operations over a magneto.
E/P-Mag does not make any performance claims. They state on there web site: http://emagair.com/
"Q: Does the E-MAG do "everything" other electronic ignitions do? Do you have
comparison data? ..there are inherent efficiencies and economies that are associated
with all electronic ignitions. However, the E-MAG is oriented toward
day-to-day fliers looking for a simplified, easy to install, and easy to operate
ignition. Not CAFE racing..We don't have plans for head-to-head closed course,
dynamometer, or other
There are two basic types of electronic ignitions: CDI and Induction. CDI, Capacitance
Discharge Ignition, produces a very strong spark. The advantage is it
will operate at low voltage (5V) and gives long duration thru multiple spark discharge.
The Induction type uses large (induction) coils that give a single strong
fat long duration spark. The advantage is it is based on reliable economical
automotive technology. From a pure performance standpoint CDI probably has
advantages on very high performance car, motorcycle and marine ignitions, but
on an aircraft engine turning a steady 2700 RPM, the advantage is not as great.
CDI does cost more but does have that important advantage of running on very
low voltage. The LS uses CDI. Electroair and E/P-Mag use Induction ignition.
I do not know about Lasar, but Avweb says it is based on CDI.
Electronic ignition (any brand) with a hotter, longer duration spark and (conservative)
timing advance will all give similar improved performance and economy
over magnetos. I think installation, features and cost are factors that will
affect the purchase more than pure performance for most pilots.
>Would they have close to the same timing curves if one where to use one
>LSE & one E/P-Mag on the same engine?
You have to remember you want (need) to be very conservative with air-cooled aircraft
engine timing, as it can affect CHT and cause detonation. The idea of electronic
ignitions, hotter-longer duration spark and timing advance, is more
efficient complete burn of the gas/air mixture. This will produce more power or
use less gas for the same power (provided you lean the engine). Of course this
makes more heat and has some drawbacks.
25-degree advance is the max advance for higher power setting from 100% to 75%.
Air-cooled engines need that wasted, un-burnt gas to cool the cylinder heads
and valves. Also detonation in an aircraft engine (5.125 inch bore) is much more
critical than a car engine (3.5"-4.0" bore) with water cooling. The subject
of pre-ignition and detonation is interesting and complex, which involves more
than just timing, but to keep it simple below 70% power, aircraft engines are
unlikely to detonate. All aircraft EI take advantage of this. They don't try
to optimize power at higher power because it is too hard to detect and control
detonation in an aircraft engine. Although it is possible to make more power
at higher power setting, typical high power settings are used for take-off and
climb are cooling critical. You need the timing retarded to avoid high CHT's
and possible detonation. All the manufactures use similar timing schemes by
keeping a conservative advance of 25 degree until pow
er is
approx 75% or less.
From the published info:
**Light Speed post a spec of 15 to 43 BTDC, TDC for starting. LS offer a reduced
max advance for HC piston engines. LS claims approx 4% increase on HP for a
single LS unit over a magneto and 6% total for dual electronic ignition.
**Lasar states that adv starts at 85% (approx 3,000 feet), but their curve shows
no change till about 6,000 feet, or about 85%-75% power. The max advance continues
to approx 42 deg (ref. avweb).
http://www.unisonindustries.com/products/lasar_performance_gains/lasar_perform_gains_eight.html
They claim approx 6% in performance and 2% improved economy.
**Electroair: Was studied by the **Cafe foundation in a three part articles: "Ignition
Dynamics I, II,II". (If you want to know about electronic ignition read
this, even if you are not going to use an Electroair unit.) They used a Mooney
with a Lyc IO-360. The flight test compared single & dual electronic ignition
to magnetos. Electroair makes no performance claims, however many are in use.
Unfortunately they are not selling new units at this time, but that may change.
I believe it had something to do with a component supplier.
http://www.cafefoundation.org/research.htm
Electroair timing advance of 30 degree was noted at approx 75% power, advancing
to 41-degree max. at approx 69% power. Dual Electroair posted up to 8.5% increase
in speed (burning 7.7% more fuel). Another condition recorded 10.7% fuel
savings over dual magnetos. This data is at very specific points, but overall
4-6% claims made by for electronic ignitions seems very reasonable.
**E/P-mag does not post any performance claims or timing advance info. From a conversation
many months ago I had with them, I recall the total advance is in
the 40-42 degree range. I also was left with the impression they have a good conservative
timing schedule and know what they are doing. Since they have an eye
on certification, they did their homework. I am more concerned about safe engine
operations than another 1/4% increase in performance. I believe the E/P-mag
shares many similarity in technology as the Electroair (induction ignition)
and should have very good performance. I think the E/P-mag folks have a safe
system. The question I would ask of any EI system is how they can fail, (no spark)
or advancing timing too much at high power. The E/P-mag has all electronics,
coil, and timing trigger, spark distribution and even a power dynamo all
in one unit. This unit is attached to the engine, which is shaking, so vibration
related failure is a design consideration. The all
in one
unit is hands down a winner from an installation stand point, but to answer your
question about performance I would assume there could be some compromise to
obtain the compact design. We shall see with more experience.
>Or are these curves "proprietary/secret" information at both companies.
>Just curious about mixing different E.I. Systems.
Not sure what you would do with the curves anyway, for most pilots the stock curve
it fine. Unlike cars and motorcycles which operated over a wide range of RPMs
and power from idle to full and back again; aircraft engines operated in a
very small power range at very constant RPM's. The curve is not super critical,
except as noted to avoid detonation.
Yes, the curves are secret. However you can guess what they are. The LS does have
an optional cockpit advance display and control, which allows the pilot to
control total advance. I would not recommend playing with timing advance as severe
damage can occur unless you know what you are doing. For a day flyer it is
not necessary. The LS also has cool display options. In addition to a cockpit
timing advance display, you can display RPM and MAP on small digital voltmeters
directly from the LS unit.
The E/P-mag folks told me they can program a custom timing advance curve, but they
must do it at the factory. Last I heard they had no plans to allow users to
chance the timing in the field. Many car and motorcycles can program fuel and
timing schedules from a laptop. Also, E/P-mag offers three versions: fixed timing
(25 degree fixed), limited advance on RPM only and Full advance using RPM/MAP
control. They also have can limit the total advance for those using HC pistons
or turbo charging I believe. The advantage of E/P-mag is the installation.
I do have a concern about the computer style electrical connector on the unit.
I would not recommend *MIXING EI BRANDS**. The major gain from an EI is replacing
the first magneto. The small increase form the second unit assumes it will
work together in concert with the first EI. If two brands differ in timing, than
the advantage is going to be lost. In other words if one fires much earlier
than the other, the other later firing unit is going along for the ride, doing
little.
WARNING: Detonation due to pre-ignition from advanced timing at high power is a
concern. All the electronic ignitions that advance timing will limit advance
to 25 degree until approx 75% to 71%. Also the max advance is limited to about
43 degrees, 13 degrees over the baseline 25 deg. However if you have high CHT
already or poor baffling an electronic ignition can cause engine damage if the
pilot does not observe engine limits. Unlike cars you cant hear detonation or
Knocking. If you have a weakness in you engine or installation, an EI may aggravate
it. All EI will cause the engine temps to increase due to better combustion.
If an engine is healthy and operated within limits, EI should be safe and
reliable. It is interesting to note Lycoming has noted more valve problems
as gas prices have increased and pilots try to lean more aggressively. However
overly rich operations can damage engines. Bottom line is the more power you
get out of your engine and higher temps you operat
e at, no
matter how you do it, ignition, HC pistons, turbo charger, can reduce life to
a degree. However EI is a safe way to achieve both a small performance and economy
gains.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/leaningEngines.html
Cheers George
---------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Paint for Cowls |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I used epoxy/acetone mix to coat the inside per the rv-ator. I then just
sprayed some hi-temp rattle can paint. Im sure you'll get a ton of
recommendations for the outside. Try searching pin holes.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> For those of you with prior epoxy fiberglass painting experience;
>
> What type of primer should I spray my fiberglass/epoxy cowling
> with so that I won't have any issues with final painting sometime
> down the road. A high-fill primer would be good as I would like
> to get rid of all these pin-holes. Also, I want to paint the interior
> of the cowl white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
>
> I seem to remember a thread a while back where some proficient
> painters expressed their opinions about what paints "Not" to use,
> but I cannot find that thread.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
> Moving to Hangar in one week.
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Paint for Cowls |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" <av8er2@mcleodusa.net>
Try Poly Fiber UV Smooth Prime it fills the holes real well and can be
painted over with any products. Its not cheap but works good. Cleans up with
water. ASC has it. It comes in several colors now.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
> I used epoxy/acetone mix to coat the inside per the rv-ator. I then just
> sprayed some hi-temp rattle can paint. Im sure you'll get a ton of
> recommendations for the outside. Try searching pin holes.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 165 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>>
>> For those of you with prior epoxy fiberglass painting experience;
>>
>> What type of primer should I spray my fiberglass/epoxy cowling
>> with so that I won't have any issues with final painting sometime
>> down the road. A high-fill primer would be good as I would like
>> to get rid of all these pin-holes. Also, I want to paint the interior
>> of the cowl white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
>>
>> I seem to remember a thread a while back where some proficient
>> painters expressed their opinions about what paints "Not" to use,
>> but I cannot find that thread.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> --
>> Walter Tondu
>> http://www.rv7-a.com
>> Moving to Hangar in one week.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 04/08/2005 9:36:36 AM Central Standard Time,
jpoint@mindspring.com writes:
Apparently not. Let's get one started. I'll be there Tues through Fri
morning.
Good deal- WX makes it look like Mon arrival for me- Camping in Vintage area
and staying til ? Margaritaville during the airshow Thurs? Someone get
Falcon Flights freq so we can stagger outside to watch!
Mark Phillips N51PW do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Paint for Cowls |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 04/08/2005 4:38:07 PM Central Standard Time,
walter@tondu.com writes:
Also, I want to paint the interior
of the cowl white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
>>>
Hi Walter- Not white, but every time I had some epoxy work to do, I would
paint whatever resin was left inside the lower cowl. Ended up with the whole
thing "painted". Used some of Vans adhesive heat shield in appropriate places
and let it go at that. Works great so far (160 hrs)
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Sounds like a plan. Is there an actual "Margaritaville" on the grounds?
Jeff
>Good deal- WX makes it look like Mon arrival for me- Camping in Vintage area
>and staying til ? Margaritaville during the airshow Thurs? Someone get
>Falcon Flights freq so we can stagger outside to watch!
>
>Mark Phillips N51PW do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Where do you get it in colors other than white (ACS web site lists white
only)? Do you know if there is there a limit to how long it can be left
before it must be sealed with primer?
On my cowl, I painted in the inside with a hi-temp rattle-can paint. If I
were to do it again, I would just seal it with a couple coats of resin. The
outside is still bare at this point....
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8, 78 Hrs.
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Rose [mailto:av8er2@mcleodusa.net]
> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 7:18 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" <av8er2@mcleodusa.net>
>
> Try Poly Fiber UV Smooth Prime it fills the holes real well
> and can be painted over with any products. Its not cheap but
> works good. Cleans up with water. ASC has it. It comes in
> several colors now.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> > <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
> >
> > I used epoxy/acetone mix to coat the inside per the
> rv-ator. I then
> > just sprayed some hi-temp rattle can paint. Im sure you'll
> get a ton
> > of recommendations for the outside. Try searching pin holes.
> >
> > Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> > RV-6A, N915JD
> > 165 hours
> > Chicago/Louisville
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
> >>
> >> For those of you with prior epoxy fiberglass painting experience;
> >>
> >> What type of primer should I spray my fiberglass/epoxy
> cowling with
> >> so that I won't have any issues with final painting
> sometime down the
> >> road. A high-fill primer would be good as I would like to
> get rid of
> >> all these pin-holes. Also, I want to paint the interior
> of the cowl
> >> white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
> >>
> >> I seem to remember a thread a while back where some proficient
> >> painters expressed their opinions about what paints "Not"
> to use, but
> >> I cannot find that thread.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> --
> >> Walter Tondu
> >> http://www.rv7-a.com
> >> Moving to Hangar in one week.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re:Paint for Cowls |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
As another stated ,Smooth Prime is the best I have ever used for filling the
pinholes in that @$
&* fibreglas. A couple of coats and sands easily.
I primed and painted the inside of my lower cowl with metallic silver paint
and glued aluminum foil under the space below the exhaust pipes. 700 hours
on the first and 61 on the present one with no blistered paint.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: I Like my P-Mags (early report) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/8/2005 1:45:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
son@hoangs.com writes:
I am about to order the P mags (plan to do it
on Monday)...
how long does it take you to install them ?
is it as simple as they claim ?
============================
Here is the Readers' Digest version.
-Disconnect and remove your mags and ignition harness
-Double-nut and remove the two left long studs (31C-19) from the accessory
case (for impulse mag)
-Replace with two shorter studs (31C-12)
-Rewire so that 12V, GND and Switched GND (your key switch) are brought to
the wiring harnesses provided
-There is a tach wire from one of the ignition units that must go to your
electronic tach (if VM1000 it goes to J4_PIN12)
-Remove the shunt on your keyswitch that grounds the right mag during
cranking
-Run plumbing for MP
-Turn prop to TDC
-Setup P-Mags to beep and install with new harnesses
-Check timing at TDC and lock them down
-Notify FAA IAW your limitations
That's basically it.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re:Paint for Cowls |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
I am a plastic airplane builder and I really love Smooth Prime also. FYI, I
was just speaking to the tech there a few days ago because I wanted to prime
something a long time before it would be painted. He said that the longer
you wait to paint over it, the better, just the opposite of most primers.
He said that two weeks in a warm dry spot is great, especially if you are in
a high humidity area, although I have painted over it a day or two later
without any problems. He also did recommend a coat of two part epoxy primer
before Imron, but I have also gone directly over it with Sherwin Williams
Polane without a problem.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Oldsfolks@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:Paint for Cowls
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
As another stated ,Smooth Prime is the best I have ever used for filling
the
pinholes in that @$
&* fibreglas. A couple of coats and sands easily.
I primed and painted the inside of my lower cowl with metallic silver paint
and glued aluminum foil under the space below the exhaust pipes. 700
hours
on the first and 61 on the present one with no blistered paint.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/8/2005 2:52:37 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
welchvincent@hotmail.com writes:
What MP settings are you using in the pattern?
What about final approach?
How about climb and cruise decent?
========================================
Pattern MP as necessary usually around 14inHg
FA, closed throttle
Departure Climb, WFO
Cruise Climb, 25inHg
Cruise, 23inHg
Descent, <18inHg or you'll never get her near the ground
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: S_N_F Vans get together ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 04/08/2005 8:19:03 PM Central Standard Time,
jpoint@mindspring.com writes:
Sounds like a plan. Is there an actual "Margaritaville" on the grounds?
>>>>
Was last year-"Jimmy Buffets Air Margaritaville" is a pretty decent
"restaurant" just east of the main food court, just north of the museum, IIRC-
decent
adult beverages, food, shade, and lots of parrothead music and airplane freaks
wearing weird hats, IIRC...
For I.D., all listers could order beverage with little umbrella in it, stick
umbrella in hat, wear RV grin- should be easy to find each other...
Mark do not archive
Message 23
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"AEROELECTRIC" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Guys,
I'm not out stumping here, but just a quick note to let everyone know that I
now have the Elecroluminescent light strips in stock. These are 1" x 36"
flatlite EL strips in the natural 'blue/green' color, that can be trimmed to
a shorter length if you desire. The light draws very little current, and
comes with a nice smal 1" square 12VDC inverter. This light can be dimmed
using your regular dimmer as well.
Just an FYI, and my apologies in advance for the intrusion. There were just
a LOT of people that wanted to know when we finally got these things in
stock.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
Do Not Archive
http://www.steinair.com
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