Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:04 AM - Lyc Oil change interval (sportav8r@aol.com)
2. 10:13 AM - List Test, Please Ignore... (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
3. 10:31 AM - [Please Read!] Matronics List Server Back Online... (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
4. 10:52 AM - Google Maps (Scott Lewis)
5. 11:10 AM - Antenna doubler plates (Ralph E. Capen)
6. 11:25 AM - Re: Antenna doubler plates (Mike Robertson)
7. 11:44 AM - Re: Antenna doubler plates (Ralph E. Capen)
8. 12:25 PM - Fuel Flow Problem Resolved - Debrief (LONG) (Dean Pichon)
9. 01:09 PM - Re: RV6 Spins (Bob)
10. 02:03 PM - RV Fly-In - Chino, CA - May 21, 2005 (Dan Checkoway)
11. 02:33 PM - Re: RV6 Spins (Doug Rozendaal)
12. 02:43 PM - Re: RV6 Spins (Doug Gray)
13. 02:55 PM - Re: Fuel Flow Problem Resolved - Debrief (LONG) (Ted Lumpkin)
14. 02:57 PM - Re: Fuel Flow Problem Resolved - Debrief (LONG) ()
15. 07:09 PM - Plenum (Emrath)
16. 07:27 PM - Re: Plenum (Jeff Orear)
17. 07:51 PM - Should I or shouldn't I (Jeff Orear)
18. 07:51 PM - FW: External Power Socket (Kosta Lewis)
19. 08:17 PM - Re: Should I or shouldn't I (Ron Lee)
20. 08:26 PM - Re: Should I or shouldn't I (Larry Pardue)
21. 08:28 PM - Re: Should I or shouldn't I (Larry Pardue)
22. 08:39 PM - Re: Should I or shouldn't I (Jerry Springer)
23. 08:49 PM - Re: Should I or shouldn't I (Stein Bruch)
24. 08:52 PM - Re: Should I or shouldn't I (randall)
25. 09:04 PM - Re: Should I or shouldn't I (Bill VonDane)
26. 09:24 PM - Aviation News (AVIATION GROUP)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Lyc Oil change interval |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
This is a maintenance dilemma question that is in no way RV-specific; DELETE now
if not interested :-)
I always change my O-320's oil and spin-on filter every 50 hours (and do oil analysis,
BTW). It's been 47 hours since last oil change, and chances are good
with the weather pattern predicted for this week and my evening commitments to
things other than aviation, that I will be hard-pressed to get in an oil change
before leaving for the 8-hour round trip to Sun-N-Fun (yeah, baby!)
Should I :
1) forget the tach reading and motor on to Lakeland, promising to change the oil
as soon as I get back;
2) run the engine on the ground under soggy IFR skies tomorrow, warming the oil,
and then change it without flying first, before the big trip,
3) Add generous amounts of Marvel Mystery Oil and AvBlend to the oil that's already
in there (AeroShell 15W-50) and never have to change oil again as long as
I own my plane,
4) cancel my Sun-N-Fun adventure, as this entire oil-change dilemmma demonstrates
poor planning and an attiutude unbecoming to a good airman,
5) Buck up and quit agonizing over this; the wx this week will be better than forecsast
and there will be several opportunities to fly after work and then do
a proper warm-engine oil change and compression check.
What Would You Do?
I realize I have (sadistically) withheld information critical to making this decision,
such as what prop I have and whether it's a tailwheel RV, and what kind
of primer is under the paint; just do the best you can with the test question.
-Stormy
Message 2
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| Subject: | List Test, Please Ignore... |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Testing the List Server...
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 3
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| Subject: | [Please Read!] Matronics List Server Back Online... |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
System problems continue to plague the Matronics Email server.
Incoming List mail was being rejected from about 12am Monday morning
until about 10am PDT Monday 4/11. It is unclear at this time what is
causing the system problem, but I am feverishly working on the issue.
I had to restore a list subscriptions database from an April 6th backup
because all of the list files had been truncated. I then reran all of
the subscribe/unsubscribe requests since the 6th. You may have just
received a subscribe/unsubscribe request and the FAQ if you've
subscribed/unsubscribed since the 6th.
At this time new posts are being processed and operation should be
considered normal.
More as information developes...
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
G'day all,
I don't know if anyone else has played with the new Google Maps, but I
thought it was pretty cool.
The building on the right of the image is Vans.
http://tinyurl.com/6n2q6
Chino Airport - Which one is your hangar Dan?
http://tinyurl.com/52rbz
Mojave Airport
http://tinyurl.com/6znuz
Part of the "Boneyard" at Tucson, Arizona. Surplus parts anyone?!
http://tinyurl.com/5knsj
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
Do Not Archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Antenna doubler plates |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
I am starting the installation of my Comant CI122 com antenna on the underbelly
of my RV6A.
All I can find in the archives is Eric Newton's post on a 3" x 6" x .040 doubler
along with a couple of others that indicate that one is required/has been used
- check the 43.13. No mention of the basis for the dimensions used.
Obviously, the AC 43.13 should have info on the determination of the appropriate
dimensions - but I have not learned to read that mumbo jumbo well enough to
get any usable information from it.
If someone could point out the correct paragraph or how they arrived at their specific
numbers, I would greatly appreciate it.
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR
Message 6
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| Subject: | Antenna doubler plates |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Ralph,
For a whip antenna AC 43.13-2A does not even show a doubler. The general
rule-of-thumb that I use for whip antenna installation is at least a 1 inch
edge past any/all screw holes or the outer edge of the antenna base,
whichever is wider.
Use this info at your own risk.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: avionics-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
>Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:07:12 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>I am starting the installation of my Comant CI122 com antenna on the
>underbelly of my RV6A.
>
>All I can find in the archives is Eric Newton's post on a 3" x 6" x .040
>doubler along with a couple of others that indicate that one is
>required/has been used - check the 43.13. No mention of the basis for the
>dimensions used.
>
>Obviously, the AC 43.13 should have info on the determination of the
>appropriate dimensions - but I have not learned to read that mumbo jumbo
>well enough to get any usable information from it.
>
>If someone could point out the correct paragraph or how they arrived at
>their specific numbers, I would greatly appreciate it.
>
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Antenna doubler plates |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Mike,
Anything on thickness?
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Ralph,
For a whip antenna AC 43.13-2A does not even show a doubler. The general
rule-of-thumb that I use for whip antenna installation is at least a 1 inch
edge past any/all screw holes or the outer edge of the antenna base,
whichever is wider.
Use this info at your own risk.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: avionics-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
>Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:07:12 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>I am starting the installation of my Comant CI122 com antenna on the
>underbelly of my RV6A.
>
>All I can find in the archives is Eric Newton's post on a 3" x 6" x .040
>doubler along with a couple of others that indicate that one is
>required/has been used - check the 43.13. No mention of the basis for the
>dimensions used.
>
>Obviously, the AC 43.13 should have info on the determination of the
>appropriate dimensions - but I have not learned to read that mumbo jumbo
>well enough to get any usable information from it.
>
>If someone could point out the correct paragraph or how they arrived at
>their specific numbers, I would greatly appreciate it.
>
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fuel Flow Problem Resolved - Debrief (LONG) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Several weeks ago, I posted an e-mail soliciting help on a fuel flow problem
in my -4. I received several helpful responses and have since solved the
problem. The root cause was unexpected and rather interesting, so I am
telling the rest of the story...
My IO-360 would not start because it was unable to generate sufficient
pressure or flow to prime the system. I inspected the fuel system starting
at the spider. I traced the problem back to the electric fuel pump. The
pump ran, drew some current and would produce some flow, but very little
pressure. With great difficulty, I removed the pump and returned it to
Airflow Performance for repair. Don Rivera at Airflow checked the pump and
found it to perform flawlessly. After a brief discussion, we agreed that he
would open the check valve and inspect the interior. Inside the valve body
he found some foreign material of unknown origin that could have prevented
the valve from seating properly.
This check valve serves as a by-pass valve that allows fuel to return
through the pump once the outlet pressure reaches the setpoint (25-35psi?).
With this valve open, the fuel followed the path of least resistance and
circulated around the pump with delivering any pressure to the engine. Don
cleaned the valve and returned the pump to me the same day he received it.
We discussed the origin of the contaminents in the valve bodies and reviewed
the fact that my fuel filter is down stream from the pump. (I knew at the
time this was not the best installation, but could not find a good place to
locate the the filter before the pump.) Incidentally, the fuel filter was
completely clean when I inspected it during the initial fuel system
inspection.
At about the same time of my fuel problem, I noticed that the small fuel
stain on the wing root fairing had grown. Removing the fairing from the
port wing showed a small fuel leak at the seal between the tank root rib and
the access cover. Reluctantly, I drained the remaining fuel, and removed
the tank to inspect and re-seal the access cover. I found that the sealant
had completely deteriorated and readily crumbled as I removed the cover.
Just for fun, I filtered the fuel as I drained it by unscrewing the fuel
drain. The particulate described by Don looked just like the material I
captured in the filter as well as the crumbling material that fell into the
tank as I removed the cover. Oddly, this material was not captured during
my pre-flight fuel sampling rituals.
During the building of my tanks, there were numerous posts on the RV List
about using cork gaskets or not and using Pro-Seal or Permatex sealing for
access panels. Nothing seals like Pro-Seal, but it would be tough to remove
should I need to open the cover. I opted for Permatex with a cork gasket.
Big Mistake. After less than 4 years of flying, both the Permatex and the
cork had broken down. On the plus side, it took only a few minutes to
remove all traces of cork and Permatex. I re-sealed the cover with Pro-Seal
and re-installed the tank and once again have an airworthy aircraft. My
starboard tank was also built using Permatex and cork, but shows no signs of
leaking. Obviously, I will keep and eye on this issue. I offer two
suggestions to current builders:
1. Put filter(s) before the fuel pump and fuel selector valve if possible.
I plan to look into putting a filter under the floor boards near each wing
root.
2. Never use cork or Permatex to seal access ports in fuel tanks. PPG
Industries/PRC-DeSoto/Pro-Seal manufactures a polysulfide sealant
specifically designed for access panels. P/N PR-1773 is a lower adhesion
product designed to facilitate removal without undermining its sealing
qualities.
Message 9
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clamav-milter version 0.80j
on opie.wvnet.edu
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
Results from spin testing my RV.
I have been flying my RV for over three years and finally have gotten
around to doing spins. I had heard so much bad press about RV6s and spins
(all from the RV list), I was quite sure I was going to die if I ever did a
spin.
But, I am practicing for future aerobatic competitions and one of the
maneuvers is a 1 to 2 turn spin for sportsman category. So I decided I had
better learn how to spin the RV.
In my RV I found it spins just like a Cessna 172. A few MPH above stall,
apply full rudder and then full aft stick and there you have it, instant spin.
Now getting into a spin is not that hard, it is the getting out that makes
all the difference. Following the instructions in the RV6 builders manual
resulted in a 1/4 turn spin recovery on my first spin. Just like the
manual says. NOTE: I have the instructions in outline form pasted on my
panel, just in case.
I have worked up to 1 1/2 turn spins and it comes out of the spin
easily. As soon as I release the rudder pressure it stops spinning. I do
not even have to apply opposite rudder. One time I did use opposite rudder
before I released back pressure and it started spinning the other
way. When I released back pressure it stopped immediately. What an airplane!!
I have not tried the Beggs-Mueller technique as I am not too keen on
letting go of the stick. But holding ailerons neutral and releasing back
pressure works for me.
One spin I did yesterday did not work, I did not apply fully rudder and the
aircraft yawed and dropped a wing but would not spin. It takes forceful
spin input to get into the spin and then keep it there.
I am not encouraging anyone to go and do spins, but after hearing all the
bad stuff on the RV list about spins, I thought I would put some people's
mind to rest, an RV6 can be recovered from a spin and with enough altitude
you will not die!! I loose about 850 feet in a one rotation spin.
I just thought you might want to know my results.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV Fly-In - Chino, CA - May 21, 2005 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Dave Klages and the "Chino Power Squadron" are hosting an RV fly-in and BBQ
at Chino, CA (KCNO). It coincides with the Planes of Fame annual air show
on Saturday May 21, 2005. Just about all the details are here:
http://www.rvproject.com/chino_flyin.html
Hope to see you there!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Bob,
I read your email carefully and I commend you for not encouraging people to
spin RV-6's. What I heard you say was, you spun yours and it was not a big
deal. That mean that spinning other RV-6's might not be a big deal.
I have not spun an RV-6. I have no doubt that your observation is correct
and under the correct circumstances most RV-6's spins and recovers normally.
The problem is very small differences in airframes and C.G. can have huge
impacts on the spin, and more importantly, recovery characteristics of an
airplane. Further, a spin is not fully developed until it becomes stable
and that may take 3 or more turns.
Van has reasons for encouraging people not to spin RV-6's. My guess is they
have found some unpredictability at rearward C.G.s or dramatic differences
based on fairing installations or the combination of both, that could lead
to some unsatisfactory spin characteristics.
I have spun my -4 several times and I have cockpit video of it, which I have
debated posting it publicly. My fear is, it would encourage others to do
more spinning and while I think spinning is great training, and I encourage
it, I encourage it be done in a Citabria or something similar.
I have said it here many times, and I repeat, the RV does great aerobatics,
but it is a lousy aerobatic airplane. It is too clean, too fast, and stalls
too slow. In short, too much G-available. An RV-8 at Vne has 18.5 G's
available. Three times it's structural limit, and twice it's ultimate limit.
With the ailerons deflected the rule of thumb says reduce those by 1/3 so
then you have 3 times the ultimate limit and 4.5 times the structural limit.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
Big Snip here:
>
> I am not encouraging anyone to go and do spins, but after hearing all the
> bad stuff on the RV list about spins, I thought I would put some people's
> mind to rest, an RV6 can be recovered from a spin and with enough altitude
> you will not die!! I loose about 850 feet in a one rotation spin.
>
> I just thought you might want to know my results.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Bob,
I understood from the early Vans report that the spins became problematic (read
scary) when fully
developed after 2-3 turns. Perhaps the rotation rate increases and the spin behaviour
changes.
Factors which alter the spin acceleration include the angular moment of inertia
around the three
Axis. So pounds further from the axis for example in the wingtips (eg wing tip
strobe power
supplies, tip fuel tanks, full fuel tanks, heavy engine/propellor) would increase
this moment of
inertia.
A higher moment of inertia will slow both the acceleration and more importantly
the deceleration of
the spin. The real problem comes when the fin/rudder is insufficient to stop the
spin at the high rates.
So my question, what was the configuraton of your aircraft when you were doing
these spins?
Engine/propellor, tip tanks, fuel load and AUW at the time etc.
I too plan to spin my RV-6 (mandatory IMHO if you plan to da any aero's) so I am
very interested to
calibrate your experiance.
Doug Gray
RV-6 fuse
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Problem Resolved - Debrief (LONG) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
Thanks for the information. I talked to Don from Airflow Performance when installing
my fuel injection system (This was about 3 years ago but the plane has
only been flying two months). At the time he recommended that I install the fuel
filter downstream from the pump because they had experienced cavitation problems
at the pump with the reverse method.
I also used Permatex/cork. Looks like I have a change to make at annual time.
Ted
Dean Pichon <deanpichon@msn.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon"
<snip> I offer two
suggestions to current builders:
1. Put filter(s) before the fuel pump and fuel selector valve if possible.
I plan to look into putting a filter under the floor boards near each wing
root.
2. Never use cork or Permatex to seal access ports in fuel tanks. PPG
Industries/PRC-DeSoto/Pro-Seal manufactures a polysulfide sealant
specifically designed for access panels. P/N PR-1773 is a lower adhesion
product designed to facilitate removal without undermining its sealing
qualities.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Problem Resolved - Debrief (LONG) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Dean,
Thanks for sharing your discovery with us. Regarding relocating your fuel filter,
I have a suggestion. Airflow Performance uses a filter made by a company called
Flow Ezy. They use model 6-ILA. Flow Ezy also makes a slightly smaller model
called the 4-ILA. You can see more about this at:
http://198.170.245.162/racingMODEL_4ILA.html
and
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3469
You can purchase these filters from RV-9A builder Chris Heitman. Chris is the
owner of Pegasus Auto Racing. I contacted him last year and asked him if he would
consider carrying these, if I would arrange a group purchase. The local RV
builders bought a dozen of these for our projects. We mount one in each wing
root area. This eliminates the problem you experienced. It also eliminates the
difficult servicing and spilling of fuel in the cockpit. Best of all, clogging
the filter can be overcome by merely switching fuel tanks. (Eliminates a single
point of failure).
I know that others will chime in with similar products for less money. So far,
all the competing products have straight AN816-6D style ends machined into them.
Others feel that this is a plus. (Less expense and fewer joints) I do not
agree. If you need a 45 or 90 degree fitting out of the filter due to clearance
considerations, you are out of luck. Strip the male AN end on an "all in one"
unit, and it's junk.
The Flow Ezy filters allow choice of filtration level. The Airflow Performance
units come with 74 micron filter elements. We purchased ours with 25 micron elements.
I would also suggest that you order them with Viton, rather than Nitrile
O-rings. Vition is virtually impervious to all chemicals. Nitrale does not
always like (it may shrink) unleaded fuels. Even if you don't currently use auto
fuel, 100LL isn't going to last forever. Additionally, since Don uses the
Flow Ezy filters with his FI setup, I suspect he'd be happier if you stuck with
their products.
I would like to suggest that your debris problem originated with the Permatex
Aviation Sealer. I HATE that stuff. It is not a particularly good sealant in my
view. It is difficult to remove and is NOT certified for aviation use. (Go figure,
how do they call it aviation?)
Cork has been used in automotive and aircraft fuel systems for decades. It holds
up quite well, although the ProSeal (and varients) are better. Just my opinion
and worth what you paid for it.
Charlie Kuss
---- Dean Pichon <deanpichon@msn.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
>
> Several weeks ago, I posted an e-mail soliciting help on a fuel flow problem
> in my -4. I received several helpful responses and have since solved the
> problem. The root cause was unexpected and rather interesting, so I am
> telling the rest of the story...
>
> My IO-360 would not start because it was unable to generate sufficient
> pressure or flow to prime the system. I inspected the fuel system starting
> at the spider. I traced the problem back to the electric fuel pump. The
> pump ran, drew some current and would produce some flow, but very little
> pressure. With great difficulty, I removed the pump and returned it to
> Airflow Performance for repair. Don Rivera at Airflow checked the pump and
> found it to perform flawlessly. After a brief discussion, we agreed that he
> would open the check valve and inspect the interior. Inside the valve body
> he found some foreign material of unknown origin that could have prevented
> the valve from seating properly.
>
> This check valve serves as a by-pass valve that allows fuel to return
> through the pump once the outlet pressure reaches the setpoint (25-35psi?).
> With this valve open, the fuel followed the path of least resistance and
> circulated around the pump with delivering any pressure to the engine. Don
> cleaned the valve and returned the pump to me the same day he received it.
> We discussed the origin of the contaminents in the valve bodies and reviewed
> the fact that my fuel filter is down stream from the pump. (I knew at the
> time this was not the best installation, but could not find a good place to
> locate the the filter before the pump.) Incidentally, the fuel filter was
> completely clean when I inspected it during the initial fuel system
> inspection.
>
> At about the same time of my fuel problem, I noticed that the small fuel
> stain on the wing root fairing had grown. Removing the fairing from the
> port wing showed a small fuel leak at the seal between the tank root rib and
> the access cover. Reluctantly, I drained the remaining fuel, and removed
> the tank to inspect and re-seal the access cover. I found that the sealant
> had completely deteriorated and readily crumbled as I removed the cover.
> Just for fun, I filtered the fuel as I drained it by unscrewing the fuel
> drain. The particulate described by Don looked just like the material I
> captured in the filter as well as the crumbling material that fell into the
> tank as I removed the cover. Oddly, this material was not captured during
> my pre-flight fuel sampling rituals.
>
> During the building of my tanks, there were numerous posts on the RV List
> about using cork gaskets or not and using Pro-Seal or Permatex sealing for
> access panels. Nothing seals like Pro-Seal, but it would be tough to remove
> should I need to open the cover. I opted for Permatex with a cork gasket.
> Big Mistake. After less than 4 years of flying, both the Permatex and the
> cork had broken down. On the plus side, it took only a few minutes to
> remove all traces of cork and Permatex. I re-sealed the cover with Pro-Seal
> and re-installed the tank and once again have an airworthy aircraft. My
> starboard tank was also built using Permatex and cork, but shows no signs of
> leaking. Obviously, I will keep and eye on this issue. I offer two
> suggestions to current builders:
>
> 1. Put filter(s) before the fuel pump and fuel selector valve if possible.
> I plan to look into putting a filter under the floor boards near each wing
> root.
> 2. Never use cork or Permatex to seal access ports in fuel tanks. PPG
> Industries/PRC-DeSoto/Pro-Seal manufactures a polysulfide sealant
> specifically designed for access panels. P/N PR-1773 is a lower adhesion
> product designed to facilitate removal without undermining its sealing
> qualities.
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
I've seen this somewhere but cannot seem to find the pictures now. I'm
looking for pictures of a plenum that had a top to the baffles fastened with
hinge pins forming a plenum. I'm interesting is seeing how the pins were
retained. Has anyone else done this who can send me a picture or two or
direct me to a web site? Thanks in advance.
Marty in Brentwood TN RV-6A
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Marty:
Here is the web page for Jeff Point's plenum setup.........
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/plenum.htm
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Just about to head to the airport
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Plenum
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> I've seen this somewhere but cannot seem to find the pictures now. I'm
> looking for pictures of a plenum that had a top to the baffles fastened
> with
> hinge pins forming a plenum. I'm interesting is seeing how the pins were
> retained. Has anyone else done this who can send me a picture or two or
> direct me to a web site? Thanks in advance.
>
> Marty in Brentwood TN RV-6A
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Should I or shouldn't I |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
List:
This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying their creations.
If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the airport, would
you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version prior to getting
everything completed? Those of you that are flying the 6/6A, do you ever
wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to fishtail that apparent
with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
One thing that I have to consider is that I have an 0320 E2D with a Catto three
blade, which may bring CG into the picture.
Just wondering what those that have gone before would do.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Just about to head to the airport
Peshtigo, WI
Message 18
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| Subject: | FW: External Power Socket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: Kosta Lewis [mailto:mikel@dimensional.com]
Subject: RE: External Power Socket
Hey, Wayne: The male end is made to mount on something (look at any
trailer brake light setup on a car/truck) and the female end is made to
stick into that receptacle; the rest of the time it dangles from the
trailer. Even if I had figured out a way to mount the female end, the
contacts on it are still slightly exposed. My setup works well. The
prongs for the male end are recessed in but not quite far enough that a
zipper pull from a flight suit cannot get in thereZAPFLASH. Only had to
happen once for me to put a cover on it. If you look at aviation
jump/recharge plugs, the male end is mounted on the aircraft (it is an
ugly external cover on the fuselage of some aircraft, most are in the
engine compartment, I believe) and the female end is on the power cart
and sticks into it.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>Why didn't you install the female fitting in the aircraft? For safety
>reasons almost every other type of appliance and electrical recepticals
has
>the female portion mounted with the contacts sheilded from accidently
>contact. Was there a reason for doing it your way?
>> I used a connector for trailer hookup on a car/truck that is used for
>> hooking up trailer lights. I have it on the left side of the console
and
>> have the wires placed to avoid pole reversal. It is lightweight,
>> inexpensive, readily available, unobtrusive and can be mounted
> externally if necessary. The 'female' socket only goes in one way, and
> can handle charging currents without worry about over-amping the
wires.
> It is wired directly to the battery with a 30 amp fuse in the way. I
> carry the charging attachment with me (female plug) and have used it
on
> the road once. Wouldn't be without it, especially in a -4 where the
> battery is buried under the radio stack and center console.
>
> The 'male' fitting that goes on the console (or wherever) needs to be
> covered (simple aluminum plate) as this is a live connection and can
> short out if touched by, say, a leg zipper on a flight suit. Ask me
how
> I know that. Gets your attention right away. The fuse needs to be
easily
> accessible.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Should I or shouldn't I |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Go fly it as is and change it later if you feel the need. I have 600 hours
in my 6A and have no desire to change the tail...even if approved.
Ron Lee
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Should I or shouldn't I |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> List:
>
> This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying
> their creations.
>
> If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
> airport, would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A
> version prior to getting everything completed? Those of you that are
> flying the 6/6A, do you ever wish you had more rudder authority?
My 6 seems perfectly normal to me and I have never had any desire to change
the tail. Maybe I would feel different if I had flown a 7. I don't think
the 6 has any unusual fishtailing tendencies but then I do think it rides
really rough. I think both opinions may be in the minority.
Jerry Springer put a 9 vertical tail on his 6 but don't recall if he ever
said much about the flying differences.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Should I or shouldn't I |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
>
> If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
> airport, would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A
> version prior to getting everything completed?
Oh, and aesthetically I prefer the shorter 6 tail. Kind of racy looking you
know, and the stubby RV-6 can use some of that.
Larry Pardue
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Should I or shouldn't I |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Ron Lee wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
>Go fly it as is and change it later if you feel the need. I have 600 hours
>in my 6A and have no desire to change the tail...even if approved.
>
>Ron Lee
>
>
>
>
It's approved, been there and done that. I flew my -6 for about a
thousand hours with the original
stab and rudder. IMO the -6 never had quite enough rudder in cross wind
landings. That is just my
opinion and others may disagree. With the new -7 stab and rudder I feel
much more comfortable
doing x-wind landings. I also find that it has a more solid feel in
turbulance and it dampens out the
so called "fishtail." Would I do it again? Yes I would, I like the way
it handles on the gorund and in the
air.
And Larry I like the way it looks:-) I just need to get it painted.
Jerry
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Should I or shouldn't I |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Jeff,
I'm in the unique position of having both at the moment. My "old" RV6 is the short
tailed one, and my newer RV6 has the RF7/9 tail on it. That one had an O-320/FP
prop, but is being retrofitted at the moment with a 360/CS.
Here's the deal with the little tailed plane. The short tailed RV's do wag in
bumpy air. You get used to it pretty quickly and don't even notice it after awhile,
but those who don't fly the short tails notice it quite quickly when riding
with me in bumpy air. My short tailed (Old REALLY short tail that is) RV6
runs out of rudder somewhere around 15-18KT of direct XWind.
Now, my big tailed beauty handles much nicer in XWinds, I've never used much more
than 1/2 rudder (the rv7/9 rudder is nearly twice the size in area of the old
short rudder). That being said, I am swapping out the O-320 because the RV7/9
tail is quite a lot heavier than the -6 short tail, and being a taildragger
(which are kind of tail heavy anyway), I ended up with very little baggage with
the -320 on front. So, I'm hanging a -360 and C/S prop on front, which should
bring my CG right back into the center and allow me to a haul to fat guys
like me, full fuel and as much baggage as I can cram in there. Such is the case
with my short tailed RV.
Anyway, I can't say with certainty what the behavior on the nosedragger would be,
but I like my big tailed RV more than the short tailed one in x winds and bumpy
air.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
>List:
>
>This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying their creations.
>
>If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the airport, would
you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version prior to getting
everything completed? Those of you that are flying the 6/6A, do you ever
wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to fishtail that apparent
with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
>
>One thing that I have to consider is that I have an 0320 E2D with a Catto three
blade, which may bring CG into the picture.
>
>Just wondering what those that have gone before would do.
>
>
>Regards,
>
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A N782P (reserved)
>Just about to head to the airport
>Peshtigo, WI
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Should I or shouldn't I |
--> RV-List message posted by: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
I think you'll find very few -6 drivers who wish they had the bigger V-stab.
Of course if we were to try both ways like Jerry, perhaps we'd feel
differently. But IMHO the original -6 tail is certainly sufficient.
As someone else said on this list some years ago, "My RV wags its tail
because its HAPPY!"
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Should I or shouldn't I |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I remember when I first started flying my -8 that it would tail wag quite a
bit... I ended up squeezing the rudder trailing edge to make it sharper...
It made a HUGE difference... Night and day...
if you don't have a sharp edge you can get separation of the air over the
trialing edge of the rudder on one side and then the other... This can
cause a wag, which is exaggerated in turbulence...
Doesn't the -7 and -9 tail have the new sandwiched trailing edge? Maybe
this is the cure for the tail wag and not necessarily the larger tail...
Just a thought...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Should I or shouldn't I
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Jeff,
I'm in the unique position of having both at the moment. My "old" RV6 is
the short tailed one, and my newer RV6 has the RF7/9 tail on it. That one
had an O-320/FP prop, but is being retrofitted at the moment with a 360/CS.
Here's the deal with the little tailed plane. The short tailed RV's do wag
in bumpy air. You get used to it pretty quickly and don't even notice it
after awhile, but those who don't fly the short tails notice it quite
quickly when riding with me in bumpy air. My short tailed (Old REALLY short
tail that is) RV6 runs out of rudder somewhere around 15-18KT of direct
XWind.
Now, my big tailed beauty handles much nicer in XWinds, I've never used much
more than 1/2 rudder (the rv7/9 rudder is nearly twice the size in area of
the old short rudder). That being said, I am swapping out the O-320 because
the RV7/9 tail is quite a lot heavier than the -6 short tail, and being a
taildragger (which are kind of tail heavy anyway), I ended up with very
little baggage with the -320 on front. So, I'm hanging a -360 and C/S prop
on front, which should bring my CG right back into the center and allow me
to a haul to fat guys like me, full fuel and as much baggage as I can cram
in there. Such is the case with my short tailed RV.
Anyway, I can't say with certainty what the behavior on the nosedragger
would be, but I like my big tailed RV more than the short tailed one in x
winds and bumpy air.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
>List:
>
>This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying their
>creations.
>
>If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
>airport, would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version
>prior to getting everything completed? Those of you that are flying the
>6/6A, do you ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to
>fishtail that apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
>
>One thing that I have to consider is that I have an 0320 E2D with a Catto
>three blade, which may bring CG into the picture.
>
>Just wondering what those that have gone before would do.
>
>
>Regards,
>
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A N782P (reserved)
>Just about to head to the airport
>Peshtigo, WI
>
>
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: AVIATION GROUP <aviationgrp@yahoo.com>
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Please click on the attached yahoo group link site to share & receive the updates
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etc.
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Please take few moments recommend us to your near & dears in the industry. We
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With best regards
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