Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:43 AM - Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
2. 06:45 AM - Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup (Dean)
3. 07:19 AM - Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket (rv6fly)
4. 08:01 AM - Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket (Bob J)
5. 08:56 AM - Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup (DAVID REEL)
6. 09:11 AM - Re: Air Box (sportav8r@aol.com)
7. 10:16 AM - Re: Air Box (John Furey)
8. 10:23 AM - Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket (rv6fly)
9. 10:23 AM - Re: X-COM Radio and Microair Repair (Scott VanArtsdalen)
10. 10:28 AM - Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed (rv6fly)
11. 10:29 AM - Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket (BPA)
12. 10:56 AM - Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket ()
13. 11:05 AM - Re: Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed (Terry Watson)
14. 11:28 AM - Fluttering Altimeter - Pitot/Static Problem? (John Wiegenstein)
15. 11:54 AM - Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket (Bob J)
16. 12:37 PM - Announcing The Third Annual Rebel's Bluff FlyIn (Frazier, Vincent A)
17. 12:56 PM - Re: Air Box (Bob)
18. 02:01 PM - Re: Static System Connections (David Carter)
19. 03:07 PM - Re: Static System Connections (JOHN STARN)
20. 05:26 PM - Scottsdale / Phoenix (David Schaefer)
21. 05:43 PM - Re: Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed (gert)
22. 06:05 PM - Re: Air Box (sportav8r@aol.com)
23. 06:54 PM - wheel pants bracket (John Furey)
24. 06:55 PM - Re: Air Box (John Furey)
25. 07:24 PM - Re: wheel pants bracket (RGray67968@aol.com)
26. 07:54 PM - Re: Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed (rv6fly)
27. 08:35 PM - Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup (Charlie Kuss)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 4/19/05 9:54:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
hollandm@pacbell.net writes:
> Also, what do people think about a slotted tube vs. a screen on the fuel
> pickup? Is one better than the other in the event of particulate matter
> somehow getting into the tanks?
>>>>
I'd fer sure go with a couple of finger strainers- not that a bunch of RVs
aren't happily running with the slots, but keeping as much potential crud out of
as much of the fuel system as possible couldn't be a bad idea. Disconnecting
a fuel line at annual and blowing the pickup tube out to clear any stuff on
it is easy to do...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/fingstrainers.php
from Spruce could likely be adapted, and Vans has a complete pickup tube with
integral strainer for $12.50 (go to on-line catalog and search for "finger"
or try this):
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1114000613-232-603&
browse=airframe&product=fuel-pickup
Being "cheap", I made my own strainers by plugging the end of the pickup
tube, drilling four holes on each side of the bottom of it, then wrapping screen
liberated from a frying pan splatter guard around the tube and securing with a
couple of Oetiker clamps (foto sent off-list). Has worked well so far, but
the commercial finger strainers would be much easier...
Also- good thing ya checked the pickup tube position and thanks for the
heads-up!
From The Possumworks in TN
Mark Phillips - N51PW 175 hrs.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Mike and Others
I was less than pleased with the results obtained in fabricating my slotted
fuel pickup tubes, so I ordered Van's standard units.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Adding fuel gages this weekend before installing the wings on my 9A
quickbuild I found that the fuel pickup tubes, as they came from the
factory, were bent incorrectly and were about 3" above where called for in
the plans if all the fuel in the tanks were to be available. Since this
could be a safety of flight issue I thought I'd better mention it.
>
> No doubt if you are diligent in checking everything versus the plans this
would be caught, but it isn't inconceivable that one could assume the parts
were completed accurately and remain unaware of the situation until running
out of gas thinking they still had fuel remaining.
>
> Also, what do people think about a slotted tube vs. a screen on the fuel
pickup? Is one better than the other in the event of particulate matter
somehow getting into the tanks?
>
> Mike Holland
> Dana Point, CA
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
During our next building session this weekend we'll install the
engine. We'd like to install the MaCaully governor before we hang the
engine and they recommend using Dow Corning #7 on the gasket. I assume
this for easy release in case, 100's of hours down the road, the gov.
needs to be removed. We can't find any DC #7 locally. Is there a good
substitute that would be easlily available in small town America?
Bob Skinner
--
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
Any silicone dielectric grease will do. You may want to check your
local auto parts store for AGS Sil-Glyde Dielectric Spark Plug
Protector.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
On 4/20/05, rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
>
> During our next building session this weekend we'll install the
> engine. We'd like to install the MaCaully governor before we hang the
> engine and they recommend using Dow Corning #7 on the gasket. I assume
> this for easy release in case, 100's of hours down the road, the gov.
> needs to be removed. We can't find any DC #7 locally. Is there a good
> substitute that would be easlily available in small town America?
>
> Bob Skinner
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Also, what do people think about a slotted tube vs. a screen on the fuel pickup?
Is one better than the other in the event of particulate matter somehow getting
into the tanks?
Since the primary purpose of a fuel system is to deliver fuel, it is important
that particles that might restrict flow be removed before reaching the choke point
where they could cause the restriction. As the wing tank fuel pickup is
the initial point of entry to the system, it's openings should be the coarsest
in the system. I like the slotted tube because the openings are large, numerous,
& it's simple. Unlikely to be blocked. Filters placed further downstream
should be no finer than needed to remove particles too large to pass through
the parts of the system further downstream. Doing so increases the likelihood
that the filter may become blocked without gaining any material advantage.
Surface areas should be as generous as possible. The area needed is a function
not only of how large the particles encountered are but how long the filter
has to operate between inspections. How often can fuel pickups be inspected?
A finger screen with a mesh about as coarse as the slots in the pickup tube and
a surface area to match would work just as well as the slotted tube but would
introduce the additional complexity of a fastener.
Just my insufferably didactic $200 worth.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
I'm curious whether you guys experiencing these cracks have an airbox that contacts
the bottom of the air filter element directly, or the style I have with a
deeper bowl and a separate aluminum plate that fits inside the bottom filter
gasket to close off the bottom. I never realized there were two styles until
my campground neighbor at SnF showed my the newer style (we were discussing air
filter service difficulty and the trick of notching the back of the airbox to
allow its removal without dropping the gear leg each time, an option I don't
believe will work on my setup without interference with the filter itself.)
My installation is crack-free after 500 hours. Just curious.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex & Gerry Peterson <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Box
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex & Gerry Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> Like many of you I had to replace my air box mounting plate
> at 370hrs. It looks like it was cracked for some time. I
> replaced it but think I will lay up one out of composite
> since it acts more like wood to dampen out vibration. Anyone
> have experience with this?
>
> John Furey
> RV6A O-320 C/S
I doubt if it is vibration, probably engine movements. Round up all the
edges, including where it fastens to its mounting plate or bracket.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 609 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Mine has the air filter held in place by a separate plate. It does not
contact the fiberglass housing. On both my RV6A's, one with O-320 and one
with O-360 I was able to remove the housing without removing the nose gear.
John
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
Bob J wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
>
>Any silicone dielectric grease will do. You may want to check your
>local auto parts store for AGS Sil-Glyde Dielectric Spark Plug
>Protector.
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
>
Thanks Allen and Bob. Would Dow Corning 4 work? It sure worked well on
the oil filter gasket on both my RV6 and truck.
Hi, Bob. 600+ hours. Wow. It doesn't seem like that long ago that you
were building your 6. Doesn't look like you're letting any grass grow
under your tires. The F1 is a beautiful airplane.
Bob Skinner
--
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: X-COM Radio and Microair Repair |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
That's pretty weird. I have a Microair 760 too and I have no avionics
switch. I leave the radio and T2000 transponder on so they power up when
the master switch is on.
I had a problem with the funny characters in the display problem. That was
an easy fix. Hopefully your fix will be just as easy. Please do keep us
updated.
> From: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 22:59:49 -0700 (PDT)
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: X-COM Radio and Microair Repair
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Scott,
>
> My radio just stopped working completely. No display, no static, no
> transmit/receive light. The back-light does still work.
> I just got off the phone with Microair and their tech rep, Ian, feels it is
> probably a fuse. He is sending me a service bulletin that will show me how to
> replace it. I will try that and let the list know if it worked.
> By the way, I have an avionics master switch and am pretty religious about
> turning it off during engine start and shut down.
>
> Ted
>
>
> Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen
>
> Ted,
> What exactly is wrong with your radio?
>
> Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin
>>
>> My Microair VHF 760 radio has failed after only 27 hours of operation. I'm
>> trying to decide if I should try to have it repaired or replace it with the
>> new XCOM radio which has some nice additional features.
>> Does anyone know of a U.S. repair station for Microair radios? I've contacted
>> the factory, but haven't heard back from them. Phone calls to Australia are
>> expensive so I'm relying on e-mails.
>> Also, has anyone been able to get their hands on the XCOM radio? They seem to
>> be back ordered everywhere. Looking at the wiring diagram I should be able to
>> plug it in to my existing radio connector.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Ted
>> Sweet, sweet flying (but communication challenged) RV-4
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
The builder I'm helping has some printed material on installation of
the cowl without installing the bulkheads, prop and spinner. I don't
know where this info came from, off the list or Van's? I think I
remember something along these lines when I built my six and helped with
a 6A but elected to install the prop and bulkheads because I felt more
certain off getting the cowl fit properly. As I've been away from
building for several years, I'm not up to speed on the latest. Does
this alternate method work OK or would you recommend mounting prop,
bulkhead and spinner?
Bob Skinner
--
Message 11
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| Subject: | Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
Bob, DC4 will work just fine.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6fly
Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
Bob J wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
>
>Any silicone dielectric grease will do. You may want to check your
>local auto parts store for AGS Sil-Glyde Dielectric Spark Plug
>Protector.
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
>
Thanks Allen and Bob. Would Dow Corning 4 work? It sure worked well on
the oil filter gasket on both my RV6 and truck.
Hi, Bob. 600+ hours. Wow. It doesn't seem like that long ago that you
were building your 6. Doesn't look like you're letting any grass grow
under your tires. The F1 is a beautiful airplane.
Bob Skinner
--
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket |
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Bob,
Go down to your local auto parts store. Ask for a tube of Permatex Dielectric
Tune-Up Grease. Everyone carries it, and it's the equivilent of the Dow #7.
Charlie Kuss
---- rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
>
> During our next building session this weekend we'll install the
> engine. We'd like to install the MaCaully governor before we hang the
> engine and they recommend using Dow Corning #7 on the gasket. I assume
> this for easy release in case, 100's of hours down the road, the gov.
> needs to be removed. We can't find any DC #7 locally. Is there a good
> substitute that would be easlily available in small town America?
>
> Bob Skinner
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bob,
The instructions most likely came from Van's website. I just fit my cowl
that way. It seems to work fine, but then I don't have my prop yet.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
The builder I'm helping has some printed material on installation of
the cowl without installing the bulkheads, prop and spinner. I don't
know where this info came from, off the list or Van's? I think I
remember something along these lines when I built my six and helped with
a 6A but elected to install the prop and bulkheads because I felt more
certain off getting the cowl fit properly. As I've been away from
building for several years, I'm not up to speed on the latest. Does
this alternate method work OK or would you recommend mounting prop,
bulkhead and spinner?
Bob Skinner
--
Message 14
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| Subject: | Fluttering Altimeter - Pitot/Static Problem? |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Wiegenstein <n727jw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
My RV-6 has about 50 hours on it now, and one thing I've noticed
recently is that the altimeter seems to "flutter" back and forth
approximately +/- 10-20 feet when I'm sure that I'm cruising at a stable
altititude, and when I can't imagine the plane is really moving around
that much. Coming back from Phoenix last month, on the last leg in
northern Oregon, the altimeter was swinging in wild excursions of +/-
100-200 feet for a while (first time I've ever seen that), when the
plane clearly was not deviating that much, and I wondered if it had
failed internally - perhaps due to some pretty bumpy air on the way home
that day. Since then is is not as bad, but it seems like something is
still going on.
Airspeed needle tends to vibrate or "buzz" just enough to be visible,
perhaps +/- 1 knot or so at the most at cruise speeds. VSI is pretty
stable but the needle does seem to show just a little bit of life when,
again, you would expect it to be very stable.
I'm not sure if these are recent changes or if I'm just noticing them.
I have the Van's factory pop rivet static ports and have verified no
leaks there, as far as I can tell. Altimeter is a United, ASI is Van's,
and the VSI is one of the AS$ units - I think imported. I don't have
the equipment list handy at the moment, so can't give specific part
numbers, etc.
Are these things "normal", or is there something else I should be
looking at? TIA (do not archive)
John Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 N727JW - 50 hrs. and having fun!
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
On 4/20/05, rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
> Hi, Bob. 600+ hours. Wow. It doesn't seem like that long ago that you
> were building your 6. Doesn't look like you're letting any grass grow
> under your tires. The F1 is a beautiful airplane.
Bob, DC4 works well, that's what I normally use on gaskets.
Time flies when your having fun...Over the weekend I got 1.1 hours in
the front office of a friend's F1. The bad part of that deal was I
had to get back in my -6 to fly home!! People can say what they want
about how great an RV flies, that is until they experience a rocket.
Its not just about the horsepower. They fly as beautifully as they
look.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Announcing The Third Annual Rebel's Bluff FlyIn |
"RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Subject: Announcing The Third Annual Rebel's Bluff FlyIn
"Flash"!
THIRD ANNUAL REBEL'S BLUFF FLYIN
Now that Sun n Fun is over, it's time to fly to the Third Annual
Rebel's Bluff FlyIn for Rocket's and Van's RV Aircraft on May 7th, 2005.
Come in about 10:00AM for an Ozarks Style Bar-B-Que lunch with all the
fixin's (catered by the First Baptist Ladies Group), and some great
comaradrie.
Rebel's Bluff (N37 06.1 W93 52.2) is located two miles north of Mt
Vernon Municipal Airport (2MO), and just west of Mt Vernon, Missouri.
About 150 miles SSE of Kansas City, MO, and 140 east of Tulsa, OK. The
runway 14/32 is 2,200' of very smooth sod by 60' wide. Use 122.9 (Mt
Vernon's) UNICOM frequency and announce "landing at Rebel's Bluff." AV
Gas 100LL will be available for approximately $2.50/gallon.
Rain date is May 14th if it is a complete washout. RSVP would be
greatly appreciated to your host Les Featherston at
lwfeatherston@aol.com or call 417-466-4663 at home, or 417-425-3595
cell. Overnighters can stay at the Super 8 for $53, or camping by the
creek (with flush toilet) is available. Looking forward to seeing all
of you again. Les
************************************************************************
************************************************************************
******
Les has a gorgeous Harmon. Pics on my pireps page if you're interested.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Pilot%20reports.html
I plan to go to the flyin. I've been to Les's flyin previously and it
was very nice. If anyone wants more info and can't reach Les, feel free
to call me... 812-464-1839 M-F
Vince
Message 17
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clamav-milter version 0.80j
on opie.wvnet.edu
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>Like many of you I had to replace my air box mounting plate at 370hrs. It
>looks like it was cracked for some time.
I replaced mine at 150 hours. I think the cracks have a lot to do with how
tight the cowl is mounted to the airbox. A tight fitting gives the highest
manifold pressure increase, but then is subject to the increase in
vibration between the engine and the cowl (the cowl does not vibrate as
much as the engine, nor at the same frequency). Also I suspect that high G
maneuvers (4+) would cause more cracking. At 4 Gs you can see the spinner
(meaning engine) drop in reference to the top of the cowl.
My fix was to replace the plate with a much thicker plate and to insure
extra space between the cowl inlet and the airbox. Time will tell if this
works.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Static System Connections |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Hi, Charlie. Your experience was same as mine - hot water. . . split 4 days
later.
There must of have been a materials change somewhere along the line - those
with good enuf mat'l (older kits) had no problem and are mystified by my
post.
But split tubing is split tubing - so it's "not optimum" to continue with
the "procedure" that no longer works when real fittings are so readily
available and cheap and work so well.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static System Connections
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> I'm with David,
> I purchased the Vans static kit and installed it. By heating the 1/4"
> plastic tubing in boiling water, with effort, I was able to get the
plastic
> tubing on the Tee fitting. Four days later, that cheap (import stuff, NOT
> real Imperial Eastman Nyloflow) tubing split. I ripped it all out. I
> replaced it with genuine Nyloflow tubing and fittings similar to what
David
> describes. I purchased the tubing and fittings from ACS.
> I've also gotten the "you are the only one who has ever complained"
> routine from Vans. Each time, it was in reference to a problem which was
> widely reported on the RV List. I've found that Van's Dutch genes
> occasionally do us a dis-service. The static kit and capacitance fuel
> sender kit are two examples of this. I'm not a disgruntled customer. On
the
> whole, the RV kits are still the best "bang for the buck", in my opinion.
> You just have to side step the occasional "pot hole" in the road. :-)
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
> >This Van's "method" has to be the most ignorant thing about the entire
kit -
> >totally unacceptable to do it their way. I went to a local "fittings"
shop
> >(brass & plastic) and bought standard, cheap Ts with the screw on caps
that
> >you just stick the tubing into and then tighten the caps. Totally
> >professional, totally secure, totally better than forcing the one size
> >tubing onto the smaller (but not small enough) tubing and then having the
> >ends split by a week later. They claim "they never heard of that one
> >before". Yeah, sure, I'm the ONLY ONE who had the tubing split.
> >
> >David
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Static System Connections |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Regarding "plastic" tubing forced over a barbed connector. If you know a
plumber ask his opinion of direct bury polypropylene/barbed water mains.
They were the newest labor/cost saving items 20 years ago UNTIL the ends
started to split. (made a lot of repair plumbers rich) Some basics: Don't
heat & force plastic tubing onto barbs. (If it don't fit, don't force it)
Never screw a threaded plastic female end onto a metal male end. It's not
IF, only WHEN they will split. "Plastic" installed in a stress mode WILL
break, that's why we don't install canopies by bending them until they fit
and then anchoring them in stress. Just my not so humble opinion. KABONG
(GBA & GWB) Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static System Connections
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Hi, Charlie. Your experience was same as mine - hot water. . . split 4
> days
> later.
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Static System Connections
>> I'm with David,
>> I purchased the Vans static kit and installed it. By heating the 1/4"
>> plastic tubing in boiling water, with effort, I was able to get the
> plastic
>> tubing on the Tee fitting. Four days later, that cheap (import stuff, NOT
>> real Imperial Eastman Nyloflow) tubing split. I ripped it all out. I
>> replaced it with genuine Nyloflow tubing and fittings similar to what
> David
Message 20
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| Subject: | Scottsdale / Phoenix |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
I'm looking at possibly moving into the Scottsdale / Phoenix area and would
like some advice from fellow RV pilots in the area about where to live,
airports to base at, hangers, aviation communities etc. Please respond
off-line.
Regards,
David Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Geek One"
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed |
--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
I am about to embark on the same road,
can anybody who employed Van's article without having the prop give some
good/bad/indifferent remarks when they did finally hang the prop???
more gap/less gap?? etc.
move up or down a bit??
Thanks
Gert
Terry Watson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
>Bob,
>
>The instructions most likely came from Van's website. I just fit my cowl
>that way. It seems to work fine, but then I don't have my prop yet.
>
>Terry
>RV-8A finishing
>Seattle
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
>
> The builder I'm helping has some printed material on installation of
>the cowl without installing the bulkheads, prop and spinner. I don't
>know where this info came from, off the list or Van's? I think I
>remember something along these lines when I built my six and helped with
>a 6A but elected to install the prop and bulkheads because I felt more
>certain off getting the cowl fit properly. As I've been away from
>building for several years, I'm not up to speed on the latest. Does
>this alternate method work OK or would you recommend mounting prop,
>bulkhead and spinner?
>
>Bob Skinner
>
>
>--
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
I trust you mean removal by way of molding a recessed notch into the back of the
airbox, for the gear leg to fit into as the box is lowered for removal... I've
looked at the geometry of this on my plane, and for the life of me it doesn;t
seem as if there's room for such a notch without interfering with the filter
itself. Maybe I'm just 3-D visualization-challenged!
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: John Furey <john@fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Box
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Mine has the air filter held in place by a separate plate. It does not
contact the fiberglass housing. On both my RV6A's, one with O-320 and one
with O-360 I was able to remove the housing without removing the nose gear.
John
Message 23
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| Subject: | wheel pants bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Can anyone tell me where to get stainless steel wheel pant brackets for my
RV6A main gears?
Thanks
John
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Yes, The O-360 needed an indentation in the air box. I just heated the
fiberglass and pushed a round pipe into it until it cooled. The O-320 did
not need this.
John
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: wheel pants bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Yo' Crossfire,
Attaway Air has them.
Scroll about half way down the page....90 buckaroos.
http://www.attawayair.com/
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/index.html
For the archives
Can anyone tell me where to get stainless steel wheel pant brackets for my
RV6A main gears?
Thanks
John
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
Terry Watson wrote:
>Bob,
>
>The instructions most likely came from Van's website. I just fit my cowl
>that way. It seems to work fine, but then I don't have my prop yet.
>
>Terry
>RV-8A finishing
>Seattle
>
Thanks, Terry. I'm kind of embarassed. I hadn't checked Van's website
in 5 or 6 years. They have lots of building info there. Quite an
improvement from the "old days". The instructions make sense. I'd
still like to hear from builders who have got their props and spinners
fitted and say that everything worked out OK. I know, if the prop &
spinner is on that the cowl can be made to fit. I'm still a bit nervous
about this other method.
Thanks, Bob Skinner
--
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Mike,
I favor Vans prefabricated pick up tubes with screens. The total surface
area of the screening, far exceeds the surface area of the bare tube.
Therefore, it should take more debris to restrict the screened units.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
>Adding fuel gages this weekend before installing the wings on my 9A
>quickbuild I found that the fuel pickup tubes, as they came from the
>factory, were bent incorrectly and were about 3" above where called for in
>the plans if all the fuel in the tanks were to be available. Since this
>could be a safety of flight issue I thought I'd better mention it.
>
>No doubt if you are diligent in checking everything versus the plans this
>would be caught, but it isn't inconceivable that one could assume the
>parts were completed accurately and remain unaware of the situation until
>running out of gas thinking they still had fuel remaining.
>
>Also, what do people think about a slotted tube vs. a screen on the fuel
>pickup? Is one better than the other in the event of particulate matter
>somehow getting into the tanks?
>
>Mike Holland
>Dana Point, CA
>
>
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