Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:46 AM - Re: New Engine Technology - What would it take? (alan@reichertech.com)
2. 05:32 AM - Re: New Engine Technology - What would it take? (Alex & Gerry Peterson)
3. 06:57 AM - Re: Confusing Engine Claims (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
4. 07:53 AM - Re: To ram air or NOT to ram air -- that is the question (Bob J)
5. 09:23 AM - Re: To ram air or NOT to ram air -- that is the question (Dan Checkoway)
6. 09:46 AM - Re: Duct Tape (Stephanie Marshall)
7. 10:05 AM - LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings (bob rundle)
8. 10:31 AM - Hoosier RVers? (Marty)
9. 10:39 AM - New Engine Technology - What would it take? (j1j2h3@juno.com)
10. 10:55 AM - Re: New Engine Technology - What would it take? (Phil Wiethe)
11. 11:06 AM - Re: Duct Tape (Kendel McCarley)
12. 11:24 AM - Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings (John Spicer)
13. 11:25 AM - Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings (Chris W)
14. 11:47 AM - Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings (Mickey Coggins)
15. 11:53 AM - Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings (Ron Lee)
16. 12:48 PM - Re: Duct Tape (Stephanie Marshall)
17. 01:12 PM - Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings (linn walters)
18. 01:26 PM - Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings (Vic Jacko)
19. 01:29 PM - Re: Duct Tape (Marty)
20. 02:42 PM - Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05 (Brad Oliver)
21. 02:55 PM - Re: Duct Tape (Stephanie Marshall)
22. 03:13 PM - Re: Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05 (Stephanie Marshall)
23. 03:40 PM - Re: Duct Tape (Kendel McCarley)
24. 04:04 PM - Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings (Ron Lee)
25. 04:33 PM - Van's Calendar 2005 (RV6 Flyer)
26. 04:44 PM - Alternator belt size (Tommy Walker)
27. 05:36 PM - Training Edge Bending Brake (MLWynn@aol.com)
28. 05:40 PM - HS Finished! (MLWynn@aol.com)
29. 05:43 PM - Navaid Control Head for Sale (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
30. 05:51 PM - Re: Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05 (Bill Dube)
31. 06:32 PM - Re: Training Edge Bending Brake (Scott Farner)
32. 06:43 PM - Re: Alternator belt size (LARRY ADAMSON)
33. 06:45 PM - Re: HS Finished! (Mark Grieve)
34. 06:50 PM - Re: Duct Tape (Mark Grieve)
35. 08:13 PM - Re: Confusing Engine Claims (Kevin Horton)
36. 09:15 PM - Re: How high have you flown an RV6? ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: New Engine Technology - What would it take? |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
> Time: 06:41:01 PM PST US
> From: "Dave Hertner" <effectus@rogers.com>
> Subject: RV-List: New Engine Technology - What would it take?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Hertner" <effectus@rogers.com>
<...>
> In your humble opinion(s) what would a company have to demonstrate to you
> in regard
> to an aircraft engine based on the above information. What would you have
> to see in place. What would you have to see demonstrated. What level of
> comfort
> would you have to have with the company before you would place your order?
> Hypothetically!
>
> Dave Hertner
1. Get off the "hypothetical" bandwagon and show us the plan.
"Hypothetical" can translate to "snake oil salesman".
2. Prove the design with extensive testing and use... meaning more than
just 50-100 hours of ground running and a handful of flights.
How about going for certification? (I'm not against non-certified
engines, but this would be a good way to show that the company is
serious about what they are doing.)
3. Prove a viable/affordable/sustainable support plan that supports more
than just the manufacturers whims and protection of the manufacturer's
legal backside.
Anything else is just vaporware/dreams/empty promises, and we've already
seen enough of that in the aviation industry.
-- Alan
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
Message 2
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| Subject: | New Engine Technology - What would it take? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex & Gerry Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> Let's say that a new combustion chamber technology surfaced
> that was developed by a really brainy person with lots of
> letters behind his name. Let's also say that the demonstrated
> efficiency of this combustion chamber technology is double
> what is currently available. This is to say that an engine
> that used this combustion chamber technology would operate
> with a BSFC in the order of .15 to .20 lb/hp/hr. on multiple
> different fuels.
>
If someone had this, they would be thinking more about their Gulfstream V's
next destination rather than watching this list.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 612 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Confusing Engine Claims |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
In a message dated 5/6/2005 1:34:39 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
khorton01@rogers.com writes:
Bart found nothing
wrong with the engine, but the builder said he was nervous to put that
engine back on his aircraft. Bart built him up a different engine, no
charge. It's hard to beat service like that.
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
RV-8 - Finishing Kit
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
SO, DID THE NEW ENGINE FIX THE PROBLEM??
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: To ram air or NOT to ram air -- that is the question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
Dan, interesting read on the induction system. I do want to point out
one thing, that manifold pressure is a function of ram air pressure at
the inlet and how well it is being "exhausted" through the induction
system. By that I mean how well the engine is breathing all that air
that's presented to it and converting it along with fuel into
horsepower. That's why if you run WOT, and back off the RPM without
touching the throttle your MP increases. My point here is that the
efficiency of the engine will have an effect on indicated MP, so to
more accurately describe your tests you should note fuel flow, and do
some flying with your buddies at the same fuel flow and rpm, running
at a comparable mixture setting. At that point you could compare MP
readings. It would be interesting to see if your fuel flow changes
between ram air and filtered.
One problem with the bendix system IMO is that the servo meters fuel
by measuring the pressure drop from the front to the rear of the
'bullet'. That is one of the reasons why I'm going with the RSA10 and
cold air induction on the rocket. The larger servo will flow more air
around the bullet.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: To ram air or NOT to ram air -- that is the question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> One problem with the bendix system IMO is that the servo meters fuel
> by measuring the pressure drop from the front to the rear of the
> 'bullet'. That is one of the reasons why I'm going with the RSA10 and
> cold air induction on the rocket. The larger servo will flow more air
> around the bullet.
Yep. That's one reason why I went with Airflow Performance instead of
Bendix. The servo's throat is huge compared to the stock Bendix servo
usually found on my engine.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Thanks,
I think that getting your first emp. is like getting a new baby...you don't know
yet what's normal and what isn't. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Yeah...all the boxes come that way. No big deal..you really should not leave
the plastic coating on too long anyway. I have seen quite a lot of tank
skins that have started to oxidize badly where the aluminum supplier prints
their name. The ink seems to have some caustic properties when it is all
covered up with plastic. You will have to weigh this risk with the potential
of hanger rash after the plastic is pulled. I believe Vans also recommends
you pull the plastic off.
Cheers...Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RV-List: Duct Tape
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
>
> Hi,
> We got our RV-8 Emp kit last night and I was wondering if anyone else's
kit arrived with Duct Tape holding the metal pieces down in the box.
>
> We lost a bit of the plastic coating as we tried to get it all apart for
inventory.
>
> Thanks,
> Steph
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
Can someone explain how to accurately acheive running a Lycoming at LOP
(lean of peak) or ROP (rich of peak)?
Suppose I takeoff and climb to 8000 ft. I set the cruise (fixed pitch) to
2300 RPM. Pull out the mixture until observe highest EGT then lean a little
more? Is this all this is done? Can someone quantify "a little more".
Thanks
BobR
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 8
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1.72 MSGID_FROM_MTA_ID Message-Id for external message added locally
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" <martorious@earthlink.net>
Got more time on my hands this weekend than I know what to do with
(was hoping to go to the Rebel's Bluff Fly-in this weekend, but so far
I've been unable to secure a ride) so if anyone is building or flying
in or around Indy this weekend, contact me off list. I'd really like
to get close and personal with an RV for the first time. It's nice to
look at pictures and the DVD from Van's Info kit, but you can only do
that for so long before you start getting stir crazy!
765-537-2342
Marty,
RV-8a dreamer.
Message 9
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| Subject: | New Engine Technology - What would it take? |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
Sounds like you are talking about a steam engine. Even there, although
the engine would be capable of full torque at zero RPM, it would not
develop it unless the prop were able to provide enough load to require
it. In other words, a variable pitch (not constant speed) prop would be
even more necessary. Given that, what good is the flat torque curve?
Still, I would try one if you gave it to me and then paid me for beta
testing it.
Jim Hasper - RV-7
Giving new meaning to the term "slow build"
Franklin, TN
Do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Hertner" <effectus@rogers.com>
(snip)
This engine would produce its full rated torque from (not at) 0 rpm and
the torque
curve would be linear and horizontal meaning that you may not need a
constant
speed propeller.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: New Engine Technology - What would it take? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Wiethe <rv8a_builder@yahoo.com>
Well, for starters, how about pointing to a published
piece of work - i.e, an SAE paper, a patent
description, or an article in any other scientific or
engineering journal describing in detail this
breakthrough new technology by this person with all
the letters behind their name.
Phil
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kendel McCarley <kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
Do you check on your kit in the middle of the night to make sure it's still there?
;-)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephanie Marshall <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Thanks,
I think that getting your first emp. is like getting a new baby...you don't know
yet what's normal and what isn't. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Yeah...all the boxes come that way. No big deal..you really should not leave
the plastic coating on too long anyway. I have seen quite a lot of tank
skins that have started to oxidize badly where the aluminum supplier prints
their name. The ink seems to have some caustic properties when it is all
covered up with plastic. You will have to weigh this risk with the potential
of hanger rash after the plastic is pulled. I believe Vans also recommends
you pull the plastic off.
Cheers...Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RV-List: Duct Tape
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
>
> Hi,
> We got our RV-8 Emp kit last night and I was wondering if anyone else's
kit arrived with Duct Tape holding the metal pieces down in the box.
>
> We lost a bit of the plastic coating as we tried to get it all apart for
inventory.
>
> Thanks,
> Steph
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Spicer" <spike@rivetbangers.com>
Its not something to try if you don't have balanced injectors and EGT probes for
all cylinders. This is because without a balanced induction system there will be
a wide spread in mixture between the first cylinder peaking and the last
cylinder peaking. If you lean to the point that a single probe egt gauge is
telling you that you are LOP, then you may have a different cylinder that is
running at peak. Deakins has a great bunch of articles (Pelican's Peak I
believe) on this at www.avweb.com. Its great reading. He's also an interesting
guy to talk to. There is way more info there than you will probably find here.
-- John
www.rivetbangers.com - Now with listserv !!
www.spikesplace.org/cgi-php/serendipity - Builder's log
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
bob rundle wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
>
>Can someone explain how to accurately acheive running a Lycoming at LOP
>(lean of peak) or ROP (rich of peak)?
>
>Suppose I takeoff and climb to 8000 ft. I set the cruise (fixed pitch) to
>2300 RPM. Pull out the mixture until observe highest EGT then lean a little
>more? Is this all this is done? Can someone quantify "a little more".
>
>
My understanding is that, after you get to peak, you lean it till it is
50 degrees below peak for best economy or you richen it till it is 50
degrees below peak for best power. I'm not sure how hard and fast the
50 degree rule is though, it probably varies from engine to engine.
--
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Rob,
If you really want to know, here is an excellent article:
http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/182084-1.html
Mickey
> Can someone explain how to accurately acheive running a Lycoming at LOP
> (lean of peak) or ROP (rich of peak)?
>
> Suppose I takeoff and climb to 8000 ft. I set the cruise (fixed pitch) to
> 2300 RPM. Pull out the mixture until observe highest EGT then lean a little
> more? Is this all this is done? Can someone quantify "a little more".
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>Can someone explain how to accurately acheive running a Lycoming at LOP
>(lean of peak) or ROP (rich of peak)?
This (LOP) may not be possible unless you have fuel injection and something
like
GAMI injectors. When I lean my carbureted engine, I lean until some roughness
develops then back in just enough to be smooth. I believe that it is still ROP.
Ron Lee
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
how did you know? Everynight we try to spend some "quality" time with it ;~)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kendel McCarley
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: Kendel McCarley <kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
Do you check on your kit in the middle of the night to make sure it's still there?
;-)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephanie Marshall <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Thanks,
I think that getting your first emp. is like getting a new baby...you don't know
yet what's normal and what isn't. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Yeah...all the boxes come that way. No big deal..you really should not leave
the plastic coating on too long anyway. I have seen quite a lot of tank
skins that have started to oxidize badly where the aluminum supplier prints
their name. The ink seems to have some caustic properties when it is all
covered up with plastic. You will have to weigh this risk with the potential
of hanger rash after the plastic is pulled. I believe Vans also recommends
you pull the plastic off.
Cheers...Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RV-List: Duct Tape
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
>
> Hi,
> We got our RV-8 Emp kit last night and I was wondering if anyone else's
kit arrived with Duct Tape holding the metal pieces down in the box.
>
> We lost a bit of the plastic coating as we tried to get it all apart for
inventory.
>
> Thanks,
> Steph
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
bob rundle wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
>
>Can someone explain how to accurately acheive running a Lycoming at LOP
>(lean of peak) or ROP (rich of peak)?
>
First you start with an injected engine. Then, for the best scenario,
get a set of GAMI injectors. Then add a 4 (or 6) cylinder EGT so you
can get a good balanced mixture. After all that, lean to pek EGT .....
and go more lean to 50 degrees LOP.
>Suppose I takeoff and climb to 8000 ft. I set the cruise (fixed pitch) to
>2300 RPM. Pull out the mixture until observe highest EGT then lean a little
>more?
>
After you've done most of the above (you may omit the GAMI injectors)
that's about it.
> Is this all this is done?
>
Not too highly technical enough???
> Can someone quantify "a little more".
>
50 degrees.
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>Thanks
>BobR
>
>Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
>http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
--
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Ron, I think you have the one or two of the leanest cylinders running at
LOP when you enrichen to smooth things out..
I don't know what the other cylinders are doing other than not running at
LOP!
IMHO,
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
>
>>Can someone explain how to accurately acheive running a Lycoming at LOP
>>(lean of peak) or ROP (rich of peak)?
>
>
> This (LOP) may not be possible unless you have fuel injection and
> something
> like
> GAMI injectors. When I lean my carbureted engine, I lean until some
> roughness
> develops then back in just enough to be smooth. I believe that it is still
> ROP.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" <martorious@earthlink.net>
Now all we need is a copy of "What To Expect When You're Emping" and
it'll be complete...
Do not archive
Marty
RV-8A dreaming
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie
Marshall
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
<smarshall@enid.org>
how did you know? Everynight we try to spend some "quality" time with
it ;~)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kendel
McCarley
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: Kendel McCarley
<kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
Do you check on your kit in the middle of the night to make sure it's
still there? ;-)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephanie Marshall <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
<smarshall@enid.org>
Thanks,
I think that getting your first emp. is like getting a new baby...you
don't know yet what's normal and what isn't. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Yeah...all the boxes come that way. No big deal..you really should not
leave
the plastic coating on too long anyway. I have seen quite a lot of
tank
skins that have started to oxidize badly where the aluminum supplier
prints
their name. The ink seems to have some caustic properties when it is
all
covered up with plastic. You will have to weigh this risk with the
potential
of hanger rash after the plastic is pulled. I believe Vans also
recommends
you pull the plastic off.
Cheers...Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RV-List: Duct Tape
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
<smarshall@enid.org>
>
> Hi,
> We got our RV-8 Emp kit last night and I was wondering if anyone
else's
kit arrived with Duct Tape holding the metal pieces down in the box.
>
> We lost a bit of the plastic coating as we tried to get it all apart
for
inventory.
>
> Thanks,
> Steph
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Oliver" <brad@rv7factory.com>
I am in the market for a Pneumatic Squeezer (C 214 type). I have compiled a
list of the prices I have been able to find... anyone else have other
sources I can look into (add to the list)? When given the option, I have
always priced the squeezer with a 3" yoke.
Aircraft Spruce - $487 - 2.5" yoke
ATS - $472 - No yoke
Avery - $689 - 3" yoke
Cleveland - $599 - 3" yoke
Brown Tools - $750 - 3" yoke - new
Ishams - $549 - 3" yoke - new
Pro Rivet Tools - $429 - no yoke
US Tool - $330 - yoke? - US114CR (assume rebuilt)
US Tool - $625 - yoke? - US114C
US Tool - $950 - yoke? - US114CC
Yard Store - $349 - 3" yoke - Rebuilt
Yard Store - $574 - 3" yoke - US114CC new
Then there is always eBay.
Cheers,
Brad
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
I have started a web site so our folks (and anyone else who's curious) back in
Oregon (we are in Oklahoma) to track our progress. I called it the RV-8a Widow's
Diary, no one's dead but I am sure that the plane's going to be another "woman"
in our marriage :~)
www.rv-8a.4t.com.
Please tell me what y'all think
Stephanie
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marty
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" <martorious@earthlink.net>
Now all we need is a copy of "What To Expect When You're Emping" and
it'll be complete...
Do not archive
Marty
RV-8A dreaming
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie
Marshall
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
<smarshall@enid.org>
how did you know? Everynight we try to spend some "quality" time with
it ;~)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kendel
McCarley
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: Kendel McCarley
<kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
Do you check on your kit in the middle of the night to make sure it's
still there? ;-)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephanie Marshall <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
<smarshall@enid.org>
Thanks,
I think that getting your first emp. is like getting a new baby...you
don't know yet what's normal and what isn't. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Yeah...all the boxes come that way. No big deal..you really should not
leave
the plastic coating on too long anyway. I have seen quite a lot of
tank
skins that have started to oxidize badly where the aluminum supplier
prints
their name. The ink seems to have some caustic properties when it is
all
covered up with plastic. You will have to weigh this risk with the
potential
of hanger rash after the plastic is pulled. I believe Vans also
recommends
you pull the plastic off.
Cheers...Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RV-List: Duct Tape
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
<smarshall@enid.org>
>
> Hi,
> We got our RV-8 Emp kit last night and I was wondering if anyone
else's
kit arrived with Duct Tape holding the metal pieces down in the box.
>
> We lost a bit of the plastic coating as we tried to get it all apart
for
inventory.
>
> Thanks,
> Steph
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
I have one to add to this list Clear Air Tools (http://clearairtools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CA&Category_Code=PRS)
$465.00 Remanufactured with a New 3" yoke and a one year parts and labor warrenty.
We are looking at getting one next month from them.
Cheers,
Stephanie
www.rv-8a.4t.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brad Oliver
Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Oliver" <brad@rv7factory.com>
I am in the market for a Pneumatic Squeezer (C 214 type). I have compiled a
list of the prices I have been able to find... anyone else have other
sources I can look into (add to the list)? When given the option, I have
always priced the squeezer with a 3" yoke.
Aircraft Spruce - $487 - 2.5" yoke
ATS - $472 - No yoke
Avery - $689 - 3" yoke
Cleveland - $599 - 3" yoke
Brown Tools - $750 - 3" yoke - new
Ishams - $549 - 3" yoke - new
Pro Rivet Tools - $429 - no yoke
US Tool - $330 - yoke? - US114CR (assume rebuilt)
US Tool - $625 - yoke? - US114C
US Tool - $950 - yoke? - US114CC
Yard Store - $349 - 3" yoke - Rebuilt
Yard Store - $574 - 3" yoke - US114CC new
Then there is always eBay.
Cheers,
Brad
Message 23
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Kendel McCarley <kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
I think I'd like to know if you've got a sister. I tried marrying an Oklahoma
gal, but there wasn't any way she'd buy me any airplane parts. First thing I
did after the divorce (well, okay... maybe it wasn't the FIRST thing) was run
down to the airport with a pile of money (which it took a while to accumulate
after the divorce) to get my pilot's license. Then, I started buying my own parts.
You do know that there's no reason to not be building with Brown's Tools right
over in Bethany. You could have everything you need tonight if you run over there
right now! ;-)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephanie Marshall <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
I have started a web site so our folks (and anyone else who's curious) back in
Oregon (we are in Oklahoma) to track our progress. I called it the RV-8a Widow's
Diary, no one's dead but I am sure that the plane's going to be another "woman"
in our marriage :~)
www.rv-8a.4t.com.
Please tell me what y'all think
Stephanie
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marty
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" <martorious@earthlink.net>
Now all we need is a copy of "What To Expect When You're Emping" and
it'll be complete...
Do not archive
Marty
RV-8A dreaming
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie
Marshall
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
<smarshall@enid.org>
how did you know? Everynight we try to spend some "quality" time with
it ;~)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kendel
McCarley
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: Kendel McCarley
<kmmccarley@earthlink.net>
Do you check on your kit in the middle of the night to make sure it's
still there? ;-)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephanie Marshall <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
<smarshall@enid.org>
Thanks,
I think that getting your first emp. is like getting a new baby...you
don't know yet what's normal and what isn't. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Duct Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Yeah...all the boxes come that way. No big deal..you really should not
leave
the plastic coating on too long anyway. I have seen quite a lot of
tank
skins that have started to oxidize badly where the aluminum supplier
prints
their name. The ink seems to have some caustic properties when it is
all
covered up with plastic. You will have to weigh this risk with the
potential
of hanger rash after the plastic is pulled. I believe Vans also
recommends
you pull the plastic off.
Cheers...Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Subject: RV-List: Duct Tape
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
<smarshall@enid.org>
>
> Hi,
> We got our RV-8 Emp kit last night and I was wondering if anyone
else's
kit arrived with Duct Tape holding the metal pieces down in the box.
>
> We lost a bit of the plastic coating as we tried to get it all apart
for
inventory.
>
> Thanks,
> Steph
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: LOP and ROP - Lycoming mixture settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Vic, you may be right. Without an all cylinder monitoring system it is
just quesswork. However I believe that this process is well accepted.
Ron Lee
>Ron, I think you have the one or two of the leanest cylinders running at
>LOP when you enrichen to smooth things out..
>
> I don't know what the other cylinders are doing other than not running at
>LOP!
>
>Vic
>
> When I lean my carbureted engine, I lean until some roughness
> > develops then back in just enough to be smooth. I believe that it is still
> > ROP.
> >
> > Ron Lee
> >
> >
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Van's Calendar 2005 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
For those of us that use Van's Calendar, it lists Mother's Day as 15 May.
Be advised that Mother's Day is this Sunday May 8th. If you are like me and
using the Calendar, you forgot about Mother's Day so you are now scurrying
around trying to fix the oversight.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,665 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Alternator belt size |
Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 6 May 2005 18:46:32 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
I have one of Van's 60 amp alternators (kit) on an O-360 and need a 30-1/2" v-belt.
Can't seem to find any auto parts store that has one! Any suggestions from
you guys who have BTDT?
Tommy Walker
6A, Finishing the finishing!
Ridgetop, TN
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Training Edge Bending Brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all
I was getting ready to make a bending brake for the trailing edges. Couple
of things are unclear, and not addressed in the achives.
1. Length I think the longest trailing edge is something around four feet.
Is four feet long enough?
2. Spacer: some folks have described putting a spacer between the boards, I
guess so it can't clamp all the way closed. How thick?
3. I understand that I will want to place a 1/8 hardwood dowel at the bend
point to provide for the correct 1/16 radius.
Any other tips?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
I finished my HS yesterday and wanted to take a second to thank everyone for
your advice and hand-holding during the initial process. I am launching into
the VS and can already see that it will go much quicker. Guess it is time to
order the wing kit.
Thanks again to all
Michael Wynn
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon
Do not Archive
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Navaid Control Head for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
List, I have a Navaid Control Head that was installed and tested but never flown
for sale. Installed a EZ-Pilot instead..... $300.00 plus shipping.
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Ebay, Ebay, Ebay
I recently bought a genuine Chicago Pneumatic 214 for.........,
...........get ready.............
. ....................., just $60.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22664&item=4363032989
This tool has an SRP of $1169 and typically retails for $850
new. Typically, you can get a CP-214 clone on Ebay for about $200, give or
take. (There don't seem to be many for sale at this moment, however.)
The key to good deals like this is a well thought out search
string. For this squeezer, I used the following search string:
(squeezer,squeazer,squeezers,squeazers,squeeze,squeaze) (rivet, rivit)
Notice I include all the common misspellings. Bad listings are
where you will get the best deals because fewer people can find the item to
bid on it. I search both the title and the description.
PayPal is the safest way to do business on Ebay.
My favorite aircraft tool dealer on Ebay is ToolsEZ. You can look
at their Ebay store at:
http://stores.ebay.com/TOOLSEZ_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm
In all honestly, I probably spent the same about of money on tools
as I would have had I bought new, but I have about three times as many
tools. I'm like Tim Allen when it comes to tools, but Ebay makes it cheap
to do.
$57. The price included four guns, about 50 tubes, about 40 tips and a
variety of nifty smoothing tools. Enough to fill a box 2 ft on a side. I
have both a 90 deg 1/4-28 air drill AND a 45 deg 1/4-28 air drill. I have
8 or 9 countersink cages so I can set each one up for a different
countersink. I have a big collection of bucking bars. I have an alligator
squeezer that has 9 inch deep jaws. Great for dimpling skins.
At 04:12 PM 5/6/2005, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
>
>I have one to add to this list Clear Air Tools
>(http://clearairtools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CA&Category_Code=PRS)
>
>$465.00 Remanufactured with a New 3" yoke and a one year parts and labor
>warrenty.
>
>We are looking at getting one next month from them.
>
>Cheers,
>Stephanie
>www.rv-8a.4t.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brad Oliver
>To: Rv-List
>Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Oliver" <brad@rv7factory.com>
>
>I am in the market for a Pneumatic Squeezer (C 214 type). I have compiled a
>list of the prices I have been able to find... anyone else have other
>sources I can look into (add to the list)? When given the option, I have
>always priced the squeezer with a 3" yoke.
>
>Aircraft Spruce - $487 - 2.5" yoke
>ATS - $472 - No yoke
>Avery - $689 - 3" yoke
>Cleveland - $599 - 3" yoke
>Brown Tools - $750 - 3" yoke - new
>Ishams - $549 - 3" yoke - new
>Pro Rivet Tools - $429 - no yoke
>US Tool - $330 - yoke? - US114CR (assume rebuilt)
>US Tool - $625 - yoke? - US114C
>US Tool - $950 - yoke? - US114CC
>Yard Store - $349 - 3" yoke - Rebuilt
>Yard Store - $574 - 3" yoke - US114CC new
>
>Then there is always eBay.
>
>Cheers,
>Brad
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Training Edge Bending Brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Farner <sfarner@gmail.com>
Michael,
You'll need to make it at least 5 feet long for the wing flaps.
--
Scott
www.scottfarner.com
RV-7A Wings
On 5/6/05, MLWynn@aol.com <MLWynn@aol.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
>
> Hi all
>
> I was getting ready to make a bending brake for the trailing edges. Couple
> of things are unclear, and not addressed in the achives.
> 1. Length I think the longest trailing edge is something around four feet.
> Is four feet long enough?
> 2. Spacer: some folks have described putting a spacer between the boards, I
> guess so it can't clamp all the way closed. How thick?
> 3. I understand that I will want to place a 1/8 hardwood dowel at the bend
> point to provide for the correct 1/16 radius.
>
> Any other tips?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8, Empennage
> San Ramon, California
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alternator belt size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Tommy Walker
Subject: RV-List: Alternator belt size
I used a NAPA Premium XL 25-09153/7360 with my 0-360-A1A & Van's 60 amp alternator.
It also allows my hand to slip between the alternator and RV6A cowl.
>I have one of Van's 60 amp alternators (kit) on an O-360 and need a 30-1/2" v-belt.
Can't seem to find any auto parts store that has one! Any suggestions >from
you guys who have BTDT?
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: HS Finished! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Michael,
You will find that the VS is very quick and easy to build. Two of us
knocked one out in about a day. No major traps that you have to beware
of. Just make sure you make provisions wiring. Take 10 minutes now, save
2 hours later. I riveted the ribs to the skins on my VS a few weeks ago
and that took about 4 hours working alone. Take your time and try to get
each rivet just right. A minute or two to drive a rivet is a lot less
time than drilling out a bad one.
Doesn't if feel great to have objects in the shop that look like
airplane parts!
Build on
Mark
Do not archive
MLWynn@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
>
>Hi all,
>
>I finished my HS yesterday and wanted to take a second to thank everyone for
>your advice and hand-holding during the initial process. I am launching into
>the VS and can already see that it will go much quicker. Guess it is time to
>order the wing kit.
>
>Thanks again to all
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV8 Empennage
>San Ramon
>
> Do not Archive
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
True enough, but I get confused. Which one is delivered with duct tape
wrapped around the lose parts?
MG
Do not archive
Stephanie Marshall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
>
>Thanks,
>I think that getting your first emp. is like getting a new baby...you don't know
yet what's normal and what isn't. :)
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Confusing Engine Claims |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
At 9:56 -0400 6/5/05, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 5/6/2005 1:34:39 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
>khorton01@rogers.com writes:
>
>Bart found nothing
>wrong with the engine, but the builder said he was nervous to put that
>engine back on his aircraft. Bart built him up a different engine, no
>charge. It's hard to beat service like that.
>
>Kevin Horton
>Ottawa, Canada
>RV-8 - Finishing Kit
>http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>SO, DID THE NEW ENGINE FIX THE PROBLEM??
Well, I am told that there is no more vibration, but it is hard to
know whether it was an engine problem, or loose spinner, or prop, as
all those were taken off and reinstalled. And maybe he found
something else that he is too embarrassed to mention, after all the
fuss with the engine. All I know is that he is very satisfied with
the service from Bart Lalonde.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: How high have you flown an RV6? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Check Terry Jantzi site: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/high.html
"Final readings from the data logger indicate an absolute altitude reached at 26,137'
and level flight was maintained at 25,900'."
He states he was at 55kts indicated and 9" MP @2700, on an O-360 (180hp). From
his description is below max endurance/range speed and near stall. Est. HP was
around 52 HP at 25,900 feet.
To note Van's specs the RV-6 with 180 hp with service ceiling of 25,700'.
RV-7/RV-8; 180HP Van's spec says 23,000' but does not say this is absolute ceiling
or service ceiling. My guess is it is absolute (ie ZERO rate of climb), increase
in angle of attack results in decent and no additional hp available. Not
sure but also assume Van's numbers are calculated? Service ceiling is a more
practical number. For a SE airplane by definition is 100 fpm climb, so this is
as high as you can go but not practical. Note of interest alt champ according
to Van's specs is a 180HP RV-4 at 28,600 feet. Obviously, max ceiling is a function
of available HP and aircraft weight.
I never tried for an ultimate ceiling, but did fly my RV-4 150hp solo to 17,500'
once. At 17,500' the angle of attack is high and controls gets a little mushy.
I don't have fuel flow numbers but recall TAS was about 24 mph slower than
8,500, where I could do 193 mph at 7.8 gal.hr. The max cruise alt I would use
on a routine long x-country, if I had O2 and winds were favorable was 14,500'.
If I did not hve O2, winds not favorable, hot outside temps or at higher weight
(passenger) 8,500-11,500 feet was ideal for long cross-country. I usually
flew below 12,500 just because of the lack of O2 on board. One trip I flew solo
all day, above 10,000 feet, 3 legs, over 9 hours in cold weather. With out O2
I ended up with a mild headache at the end of the day. I am a non-smoker and
in good health. I did not care for the after effect of no O2 all day near the
12,500' legal limit. Even with O2, breathing it all day has a down side, besides
cost and weight, there is the drying out of the n
asal
membrane. Practical cruise altitudes between 8,500-11,500 work best for me, unless
terrain is an issue. If you never sniffed O2 in flight it is kind of fun
at first but looses its luster real fast. It is not my idea of fun so I plan on
flying at or below 12,500 (up to incl 14,000 for less than 30 minutes).
What is the purpose of flying high, if not to just set a personal record, than
what is the best altitude to fly at? In theory the higher you fly the less drag
and better range. However you have to have enough HP to maintain the optimum
long range/max range cruise speed.
If you want to go as fast as you can, with no regard to fuel burn, 100% power at
SL would give max speed and min range. If you want fuel economy and max endurance,
fly at reduced power by throttling back, to maintain best glide (L/Dmax),
which is max endurance speed. In RVs this is about 93-109 mph at SL. Assume
a nominal 100 mph IAS. Max endurance (L/D max) is good if you are just trying
to stay aloft longer but not real practical for going somewhere.
If you want max range cruise, best mileage, you need to fly faster than max L/D.
Optimum cruise is best range , approx best glide speed (L/Dmax) x 1.316 at sea
level. Using the average best glide speed (L/Dmax) at SL of 100 mph for a RV,
Best range (SL) = 100 mph x 1.316= 132 mph.
Factors affecting best range (L/Dmax) speed:
-L/Dmax TAS speed goes up with altitude and weight
-Indicated AS goes down for the same TAS with altitude.
-HP goes down with altitude (normal aspirated)
-HP required goes down w/ Alt, for a given speed (not on the back-side of the pwr
curve)
-Max range speed is affected by L/Dmax and wind
To make it easy, the max altitude for efficient (optimal or max range) cruise with
a 180 hp Lycoming RV is between power settings of 75% to 51% BHP or 8,500
- 18,000 feet (density alt). Flying higher allows trading speed for fuel economy
with in limits. Fly lower or faster at higher weights, short legs and with
head-winds. With a tail-wind fly slower (or lower %BHP) and/or higher altitudes.
The lower HP model engines will need to operate at slightly lower altitudes
(or higher % power) since required total HP is the same to achieve the required
speed for a given altitude.
Obviously you can fly slow at sea level by pulling the throttle back and saving
fuel and extending endurance or range, but by flying at altitude with the equivalent
airspeed you can take advantage of lower drag, due to thinner air at the
higher altitudes. The RV has "excess HP" and can fly much faster than optimal
speed at sea level. RVs have "extra HP" due to a low-drag low-weight airframe,
airfoil and relatively high HP engines to start with. Also by flying higher,
less dense air will "throttle back" the engine naturally. This has has a side
advantage of reduced power while still at WOT, where the throttle plate is
in the wide-open position. This allows the engine to breathe easier than when
the throttle plate is partially closed, as you would have at low altitudes and
partial power settings. The loss from pulling air past the restricted intake
from a partially closed throttle butterfly is called pumping loss. It's worth
a few HP.
Note: Advantage of turbo/turbine engines is the higher HP available at altitude,
however the airframe Vne or Vmo, max operating speed, is a function of TAS.
So indicated Vne goes down with altitude. This should not be a problem with a
non-turbo Lycoming since it can't make enough HP to exceed Vne in climb or cruise.
However, if you start a descent from high altitude, you could easily exceed
Vne by accident due to a much lower indicated speed than at sea level. With
more available HP at altitude using a turbo engine, you could easily exceed Vne
in cruise. At very high altitude, Vne and Vstall meet theoretically. This altitude
is possible to reach in Jets and is known as the coffin corner, where
flying slower will cause a stall, flying faster will exceed Vmo (max Mach) and
cause a high speed buffet. The only fix is to descend.
At 18,000 you would need to fly at IAS of 122 to 142 MPH for best range. This is
about as high as you can fly, and still have enough available HP from a 180HP
Lycoming (about 51-53% power) to achieve best range speed in still air. Of course
above FL180 you need an IFR clearance, rating and equipment.
If you want shorter flight time (higher speed) you would want to fly at 65-75%
power, which would be closer to 13,500-9000 feet.
A light (solo) RV with 180 HP c/s prop can easily cruise at 17,500' while maintaining
long range cruise. There is no advantage in flight range or economy by
flying at higher altitudes than FL180 (53% power on a 180HP engine). Lower HP
engines and heavy RVs may have a lower optimum altitude. The best cruise altitudes
without O2 is closer to 8,500-11,500. Your mileage may vary.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
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