Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:43 AM - Re: Alternator belt size (LarryRobertHelming)
2. 05:38 AM - Re: Re: How high have you flown an RV6? (Kevin Horton)
3. 07:15 AM - cleco pliers (David Burton)
4. 07:40 AM - Would appreciate references for pro panel-builders (Paul Folbrecht)
5. 08:54 AM - Re: cleco pliers (Jeff Orear)
6. 08:59 AM - Channel caps? (Mark Rose)
7. 09:45 AM - RV-7 upper spar opening rivets (William Gill)
8. 09:53 AM - Re: cleco pliers (Mark Grieve)
9. 09:54 AM - Re: Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05 (Michael Duran)
10. 10:30 AM - Re: Van's Calendar 2005 (Konrad L. Werner)
11. 11:49 AM - Re: Alternator belt size (cgalley)
12. 12:43 PM - Re: cleco pliers (David Burton)
13. 01:27 PM - Re: cleco pliers (Mark Grieve)
14. 05:51 PM - camera in the tail (gert)
15. 07:30 PM - Re: RV-7 upper spar opening rivets (Dan Checkoway)
16. 07:44 PM - Re: cleco pliers (James Ochs)
17. 08:04 PM - Conversion Coating and Priming with Sanchem (MLWynn@aol.com)
18. 08:58 PM - Rude RVers? (Finn Lassen)
19. 08:59 PM - Re: camera in the tail (Larry Bowen)
20. 09:42 PM - Re: Rude RVers? (Stein Bruch)
21. 09:45 PM - Re: Conversion Coating and Priming with Sanchem (James Ochs)
22. 11:01 PM - overtightened pipe fittings? (Eastham, Paul)
23. 11:04 PM - Re: Rude RVers? (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator belt size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I suggest you find a store that sells Gates. Buy several, like a 30", 31",
32" or what ever is available around what you measured. Then return the
ones that don't fit.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up FLYING - Phase 1 Testing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alternator belt size
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>
> I have one of Van's 60 amp alternators (kit) on an O-360 and need a
> 30-1/2" v-belt. Can't seem to find any auto parts store that has one! Any
> suggestions from you guys who have BTDT?
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: How high have you flown an RV6? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>Check Terry Jantzi site: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/high.html
>
>"Final readings from the data logger indicate an absolute altitude
>reached at 26,137' and level flight was maintained at 25,900'."
>
>He states he was at 55kts indicated and 9" MP @2700, on an O-360
>(180hp). From his description is below max endurance/range speed and
>near stall. Est. HP was around 52 HP at 25,900 feet.
Actually, the best condition to be at would have been the speed that
required the least amount of power, because power was the limiting
factor here. The speed that requires the least amount of power is
lower than the speed for best L/D, and is theoretically equal to best
glide speed divided by 1.316. So Terry was probably not too far off
the optimum speed at the light weight he was at.
>If you want fuel economy and max endurance, fly at reduced power by
>throttling back, to maintain best glide (L/Dmax), which is max
>endurance speed. In RVs this is about 93-109 mph at SL. Assume a
>nominal 100 mph IAS. Max endurance (L/D max) is good if you are just
>trying to stay aloft longer but not real practical for going
>somewhere.
There seems to be some confusion between jet aircraft and piston
aircraft performance. The two types of aircraft have different
relationships between speeds for best endurance, best range, and L/D
max. See:
http://www.professionalpilot.ca/aerodynamics/performance/range_jet.htm
http://www.professionalpilot.ca/aerodynamics/performance/range_prop.htm
Max endurance is achieved at the speed that produces the lowest fuel
flow, which means the speed that requires the least amount of power
for a piston engine aircraft. The power required is equal to the
drag times the speed (with a few conversion factors thrown in),
assuming that the prop efficiency doesn't do something strange. So,
the speed for best endurance on a piston engined aircraft is actually
slower than the speed for L/D max.
>If you want max range cruise, best mileage, you need to fly faster
>than max L/D.
This is true on a jet aircraft, but not on a piston engined one.
With a piston engined aircraft, the speed for max range is the speed
for max L/D, assuming that the engine produces the same specific fuel
consumption at all power settings, and that the prop efficiency
remains constant. In the real world, the engine probably is not
quite as efficient at very low power, and the prop may be off its
design point, so it efficiency may suffer a bit. These factors would
lead to a max range speed a bit higher than speed for max L/D. In
practice, the range vs speed curve has quite a flat top, so the range
penalty to go a bit faster is quite small. People looking for max
range will often target the speed that gives 99% of max range, as
giving up on 1% of absolute max range allows the cruise speed to be
bumped up quite a bit.
>Optimum cruise is best range , approx best glide speed (L/Dmax) x
>1.316 at sea level. Using the average best glide speed (L/Dmax) at
>SL of 100 mph for a RV, Best range (SL) = 100 mph x 1.316= 132 mph.
This is Carson's speed - the speed that gives the lowest fuel flow
per unit speed. I.e. a good compromise.
Lots more info at:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/perfspds/perfspds.htm
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Anybody make cloche style pliers that don't have to be opened so wide to
grasp a cloche? I have several misc. manufacturer's pliers and they all
have the same grip length. I almost cannot open my hand wide enough to grab
a side grip cloche, and would like it to be easier to grab a regular cloche.
I thought I'd ask the list before I took the torch to one of mine... They
have a useless range of travel at the closed position and have to be opened
too wide at the large.
Thanks,
Dave
RV6 near Seattle
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator belt size
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> I suggest you find a store that sells Gates. Buy several, like a 30",
31",
> 32" or what ever is available around what you measured. Then return the
> ones that don't fit.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up FLYING - Phase 1 Testing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
> To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Alternator belt size
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
> >
> > I have one of Van's 60 amp alternators (kit) on an O-360 and need a
> > 30-1/2" v-belt. Can't seem to find any auto parts store that has one!
Any
> > suggestions from you guys who have BTDT?
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Would appreciate references for pro panel-builders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Cutting & wiring my panel is probably the only thing on the project (other than
painting) that I won't care to do myself. I am, at this planning stage,
looking to get quotes from shops on a plug-and-play panel with component
supplied by me. I would appreciate any references anybody here can give me, as
well as maybe some general information on what it might cost me (I'm hoping
somewhat less than the standard certified avionics shop rates).
For reference, this is the panel I'm planning at this point:
2-screen GRT EFIS (with their EIS 4000)
Garmin 300XL IFR GPS
Garmin SL-30 Nav/com
Garmin 327 transponder
PSE 6000 audio panel
Analog ASI, Alt, electric TC for IFR backup
TruTrak DigiTrak AP (1-axis)
Probably an AOA indicator
I'm especially interested in custom fiberglass panels for the RV. I think they
look better. But that's not a must. I like affordable panels stuff as well.
Feel free to contact me off-list if that would be more appropriate. TIA.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: cleco pliers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Dave:
If you are having that much trouble with your cleco pliers, I suggest that
you consider buying a pneumatic one from Avery's. It is engaged via a
trigger and may be more comfortable for you.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Heading to the airport 5/11
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Subject: RV-List: cleco pliers
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> Anybody make cloche style pliers that don't have to be opened so wide to
> grasp a cloche? I have several misc. manufacturer's pliers and they all
> have the same grip length. I almost cannot open my hand wide enough to
> grab
> a side grip cloche, and would like it to be easier to grab a regular
> cloche.
> I thought I'd ask the list before I took the torch to one of mine... They
> have a useless range of travel at the closed position and have to be
> opened
> too wide at the large.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
> RV6 near Seattle
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator belt size
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
>> <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>>
>> I suggest you find a store that sells Gates. Buy several, like a 30",
> 31",
>> 32" or what ever is available around what you measured. Then return the
>> ones that don't fit.
>>
>> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up FLYING - Phase 1 Testing
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>> To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: Alternator belt size
>>
>>
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>> >
>> > I have one of Van's 60 amp alternators (kit) on an O-360 and need a
>> > 30-1/2" v-belt. Can't seem to find any auto parts store that has one!
> Any
>> > suggestions from you guys who have BTDT?
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" <av8er2@mcleodusa.net>
What are the rivet callout for the 804 Channel Caps on the RV8? I can't find it
on the plans, but I've missed them before too. Thanks Mark finishing all the
little stuff.
Message 7
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| Subject: | RV-7 upper spar opening rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
Reference drawing 28
The two corner upper rivets around the spar opening in the fuse for
F-704H and side skin call for AN470AD5 rivets. Anyone have experience
with these interfering with the wing root fairing/seal? If so, how did
you remedy this?
Bill
RV-7 fuse & finish
Lee's Summit, MO
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: cleco pliers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Dave,
These pliers are pretty low tech and haven't seen much change in design
in the last 50 years. They require a good squeeze I really feel it in my
forearm after a log building session. They are also cheap which invites
you to experiment. You could heat the handles and bend them a little
closer together. This would certainly be enough for the side grip
fasteners but night not allow the regular style to slip through the
holes. I have about 5 of these tools so the torch treatment seems
reasonable to me.
Another poster suggested the pneumatic tool from Avery. I am not
familiar with that one but The Yard has one for just $25 and just love
it.
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=313&Category=88
There was quite a discussion on this tool about a month ago and it
sounds like The Yard has sold a bunch.
Pick your least favorite pair and fire up the torch. Let us know the
results.
Mark
Do not archive
David Burton wrote:
> <>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> Anybody make cloche style pliers that don't have to be opened so wide to
> grasp a cloche? I have several misc. manufacturer's pliers and they all
> have the same grip length. I almost cannot open my hand wide enough to
> grab
> a side grip cloche, and would like it to be easier to grab a regular
> cloche.
> I thought I'd ask the list before I took the torch to one of mine... They
> have a useless range of travel at the closed position and have to be
> opened
> too wide at the large.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
> RV6 near Seattle
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic Squeezer Prices as of May '05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael Duran <mgdurand@yahoo.com>
Please allow me to reinforce the usefulness of Ebay
for buying tools - and a friendly raspberry to Bill
Dube for giving away the secret to profitable
searches. My best score is the 9" alligator squeezer
on pedestal stand for pennies on the dollar. Just
hold up a skin and dimple away....
Lots of surplus aerospace stuff out there. I would be
careful about Toolsez though, while I've probably
gotten most of my stuff from them they have stiffed me
twice on minor items. Like the pneumatic wire crimper
for $9.99 (score) which they shipped without the heads
as advertised (loss) and then proceeded to ignore my
emails about it.
Mike
7a Fuselage
planning Snake Oil engine
============
Ebay, Ebay, Ebay
I recently bought a genuine Chicago
Pneumatic 214 for.........,
...........get ready.............
. ....................., just $60.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Calendar 2005 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Oh Mother . . . ,
Thank you for the heads up, and all the trouble saved for the many male folks with
their heads stuck in the workshop!
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: RV6 Flyer
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 5:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's Calendar 2005
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
For those of us that use Van's Calendar, it lists Mother's Day as 15 May.
Be advised that Mother's Day is this Sunday May 8th. If you are like me and
using the Calendar, you forgot about Mother's Day so you are now scurrying
around trying to fix the oversight.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,665 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator belt size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
If you want a closer fit go get a metric belt as they are sized by the CM so
they are plus or minus a cm instead of an inch on the circumference. That's
less than a 1/3 of a cm as opposed to 1/3 of an inch when you are talking
center to center distances. Matched pairs are very easy with metric sized
belts. Very expensive with inch sizes.
Your 30 1/2 " could be as short as 30 and as long as 31. a 77cm is 30.31
inches while a 78 cm belt is 30.71 inches.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator belt size
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> I suggest you find a store that sells Gates. Buy several, like a 30",
> 31",
> 32" or what ever is available around what you measured. Then return the
> ones that don't fit.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up FLYING - Phase 1 Testing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
> To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Alternator belt size
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>>
>> I have one of Van's 60 amp alternators (kit) on an O-360 and need a
>> 30-1/2" v-belt. Can't seem to find any auto parts store that has one! Any
>> suggestions from you guys who have BTDT?
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: cleco pliers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Thanks for the tips. I've thought about a pneumatic cleco tool, and since I
live close to Boeing Surplus I might look for one there. I didn't mention
Boeing as a source for air tools to the list since it doesn't help much if
you don't live around here...
There may be something similar in your area though worth checking out.
Boeing has bins of Rockwell right angle pneumatic drills for $75 and rivet
guns by the hundreds.
I can see that the cleco pliers have lots of wasted travel when closed. I'm
going to either find some different ones or modify one of mine... Boeing
sometimes has boxes of them for a buck. Easy to experiment with.
Sorry about my spell checker changing cleco to chloe. At least the header
stayed correct...
Dave
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: cleco pliers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
David Burton wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
>Sorry about my spell checker changing cleco to chloe. At least the header
>stayed correct...
>
>Dave
>
>
I just assumed it was one of those regional things.
Do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | camera in the tail |
--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
Hi Folks
to you who have installed a camera in the tail.....the wired
version....
What wires did you run for the camera, I guess a 12 volt, maybe a
ground, and a coax?? if so, what kind of coax does it require??
try to install the ifra structure without actually buying the camera yet.
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 upper spar opening rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The rubber of the wing root fairing seal just "gives" in that area and sort
of forms to the rivet. You'll never notice it. Press on, you'll be flying
soon.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 upper spar opening rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
>
> Reference drawing 28
> The two corner upper rivets around the spar opening in the fuse for
> F-704H and side skin call for AN470AD5 rivets. Anyone have experience
> with these interfering with the wing root fairing/seal? If so, how did
> you remedy this?
>
> Bill
> RV-7 fuse & finish
> Lee's Summit, MO
>
>
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James Ochs" <jochs@froody.org>
I have to second the opinions on the $25 one from the yard store... I used
it quite a bit today on my emp. Kit and it saved me a lot of fatigue from
the cleco pliers. I can insert and remove clecos at about the same speed
using either tool, but you get much less tired with the pneumatic one ;)
And at $25 it's a pretty good investment ;)
James
#40400
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Grieve
Subject: Re: RV-List: cleco pliers
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Dave,
These pliers are pretty low tech and haven't seen much change in design
in the last 50 years. They require a good squeeze I really feel it in my
forearm after a log building session. They are also cheap which invites
you to experiment. You could heat the handles and bend them a little
closer together. This would certainly be enough for the side grip
fasteners but night not allow the regular style to slip through the
holes. I have about 5 of these tools so the torch treatment seems
reasonable to me.
Another poster suggested the pneumatic tool from Avery. I am not
familiar with that one but The Yard has one for just $25 and just love
it.
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=313&Category=88
There was quite a discussion on this tool about a month ago and it
sounds like The Yard has sold a bunch.
Pick your least favorite pair and fire up the torch. Let us know the
results.
Mark
Do not archive
David Burton wrote:
> <>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> Anybody make cloche style pliers that don't have to be opened so wide to
> grasp a cloche? I have several misc. manufacturer's pliers and they all
> have the same grip length. I almost cannot open my hand wide enough to
> grab
> a side grip cloche, and would like it to be easier to grab a regular
> cloche.
> I thought I'd ask the list before I took the torch to one of mine... They
> have a useless range of travel at the closed position and have to be
> opened
> too wide at the large.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
> RV6 near Seattle
Message 17
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| Subject: | Conversion Coating and Priming with Sanchem |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
Thought I would report back on a different conversion coating. I ordered the
3 part Sanchem 6100 system. Part C is a cleaner/activator. A&B get mixed
1:1. Basically, you scrub the parts with scotchbrite and part C, rinse and
immediately brush on or immerse in the A&B stuff. I minute or two later, you have
a pretty golden brown conversion coating. It looks exactly like my alondined
conversion. I then applied AZKO two part epoxy over the whole thing. Mostly
an all day project, but the results are beautiful.
The really nice thing about the Sanchem is that it is not toxic or
environmentally harmful. Judging from the color of the stuff, I would guess this
is a
permanganate that reacts with the prepared aluminum to make an AlMn04 coating
over the surface.
The folks at Sanchem, particularly Jonathon Filcher their technical guy, were
very helpful. Will let you know in ten years if the primer remains intact.
Anyway, took about the same amount of time as the alodine process, just a lot
less toxic.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Apparently the following RVers visited Clearwater Airpark (CLW) today:
N699JB, N99PZ, N515L, N695LS and N628PV.
If any of you are on the list, I'd like to hear your side of the story.
Apparently managed to piss off a number of people including the flight
school owner at the FBO, not following published pattern at airpark,
violate St Pete controlled airspace and buzz the neigborhood below
minimum altitude, just as a meeting to appease complaining neigbors was
about to end. The message I got from the FBO was "they are not welcome
back".
This does not reflect well on the RV community.
Finn Lassen
RV-3 Mazda rotary powered
Message 19
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| Subject: | camera in the tail |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I did shielded 20 awg for the video, unshielded 20 for the power, and local
ground.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gert [mailto:gert.v@sbcglobal.net]
> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 8:48 PM
> To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: camera in the tail
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Hi Folks
>
> to you who have installed a camera in the tail.....the wired
> version....
>
> What wires did you run for the camera, I guess a 12 volt,
> maybe a ground, and a coax?? if so, what kind of coax does
> it require??
>
> try to install the ifra structure without actually buying the
> camera yet.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gert
>
>
> --
>
>
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Wow...the other side of the story is definately needed.....
That list is nearly a "who's who" in the RV world.
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Finn Lassen
Subject: RV-List: Rude RVers?
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Apparently the following RVers visited Clearwater Airpark (CLW) today:
N699JB, N99PZ, N515L, N695LS and N628PV.
If any of you are on the list, I'd like to hear your side of the story.
Apparently managed to piss off a number of people including the flight
school owner at the FBO, not following published pattern at airpark,
violate St Pete controlled airspace and buzz the neigborhood below
minimum altitude, just as a meeting to appease complaining neigbors was
about to end. The message I got from the FBO was "they are not welcome
back".
This does not reflect well on the RV community.
Finn Lassen
RV-3 Mazda rotary powered
Message 21
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| Subject: | Conversion Coating and Priming with Sanchem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James Ochs" <jochs@froody.org>
I'm also using the Sanchem products. It's pretty easy to apply and clean
up. And I am really happy with it so far.
I'm using their seal #2 instead of primer on the internal bits. It puts a
coating over the parts that is almost like lacquer or plastic and seems to
be very durable. Again, you just rinse and dry after the part a+b solution,
brush or spray it on, hit it with a heat gun and it's done in about 30
seconds.
For anyone who is interested I have a write up at
http://www.froody.org/html/index.php?module=ContentExpress&file=index&func=d
isplay&ceid=1&meid=3 and docs and MSDS posted at
http://www.froody.org/html/modules.php?op=modload&name=DownloadsPlus&file=in
dex&req=viewdownload&cid=3
The MSDS is quite boring as far as MSDS go, which is nice ;)
James
#40400
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Conversion Coating and Priming with Sanchem
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
Thought I would report back on a different conversion coating. I ordered
the
3 part Sanchem 6100 system. Part C is a cleaner/activator. A&B get mixed
1:1. Basically, you scrub the parts with scotchbrite and part C, rinse and
immediately brush on or immerse in the A&B stuff. I minute or two later,
you have
a pretty golden brown conversion coating. It looks exactly like my
alondined
conversion. I then applied AZKO two part epoxy over the whole thing.
Mostly
an all day project, but the results are beautiful.
The really nice thing about the Sanchem is that it is not toxic or
environmentally harmful. Judging from the color of the stuff, I would guess
this is a
permanganate that reacts with the prepared aluminum to make an AlMn04
coating
over the surface.
The folks at Sanchem, particularly Jonathon Filcher their technical guy,
were
very helpful. Will let you know in ten years if the primer remains intact.
Anyway, took about the same amount of time as the alodine process, just a
lot
less toxic.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 22
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| Subject: | overtightened pipe fittings? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eastham, Paul" <Paul.Eastham@netapp.com>
Hi list,
I've seen several people warn not to overtighten NPT fittings, but how do you know
if you've overtightened one?
I was just struggling with my gascolator 45-degree elbow -- it started to snug
up just past the proper clocking, so by the time it was back to the right position
the torque was quite high. Toward the end I was wondering if I was bending
the fitting rather than threading it in, though there is no evidence of this
besides some scraped-off anodizing from the wrench. (yes, I used fuellube)
I'm also willing to take the steel-fitting plunge (especially since I suspect I
screwed up this fitting), but is there a dissimilar-metal problem if I use a
steel fitting on the aluminum gascolator?
Thanks,
Paul
RV-9A finishing
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>
>Apparently the following RVers visited Clearwater Airpark (CLW) today:
>N699JB, N99PZ, N515L, N695LS and N628PV.
>
>If any of you are on the list, I'd like to hear your side of the story.
>
>Apparently managed to piss off a number of people including the flight
>school owner at the FBO, not following published pattern at airpark,
>violate St Pete controlled airspace and buzz the neigborhood below
>minimum altitude, just as a meeting to appease complaining neigbors was
>about to end. The message I got from the FBO was "they are not welcome
>back".
>
>This does not reflect well on the RV community.
>
>Finn Lassen
>RV-3 Mazda rotary powered
>
>
>
I know 4 of the 5 on your list and I don't believe they did what you
said. I also know that
most of them are or were on the RV-List. To characterize any on that
list as RUDE is way
off the mark. Finn I have to believe that you have the capability to
look up who belongs to
these airplanes and would have to agree with me. You have been on this
list long enough
to see most of them post here at one time or another.
Jerry
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