Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:14 AM - John Kent sent you this eBay item: Ferranti Mk14 Gyro Horizon and Inverter Kit (#4551535658) (eBay Member)
2. 12:16 AM - Beta software available for GPSMAP 296 (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
3. 12:20 AM - Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 12:20 AM - Dipstick writer...... (JOHN STARN)
5. 12:26 AM - Camlocs on cowl (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
6. 12:26 AM - Re: RV-6 Emp Kit for Sale (Jim McNulty)
7. 03:19 AM - Re: AOA indicator? (Barry Chapman)
8. 03:38 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
9. 03:53 AM - Any RV'rs or EAA in Churchville MD??? (RV6160hp@aol.com)
10. 03:53 AM - Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
11. 04:02 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (linn walters)
12. 04:47 AM - Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse (Larry Bowen)
13. 04:47 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (Larry Bowen)
14. 04:52 AM - Re: Camlocs on cowl (Jeff Dowling)
15. 05:23 AM - Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse (LarryRobertHelming)
16. 06:19 AM - Re: AOA indicator? (RV4WGH@aol.com)
17. 06:34 AM - Re: Camlocs on cowl (Mauri Morin)
18. 06:34 AM - Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse (Charlie Kuss)
19. 06:48 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (Hal Kempthorne)
20. 06:53 AM - glareshield fabric (Don/Marcia Piermattei)
21. 06:53 AM - oilcanning (Frazier, Vincent A)
22. 06:57 AM - Re: AOA indicator? (Paul Folbrecht)
23. 06:58 AM - Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse (Pat Hatch)
24. 07:16 AM - Re: endorsement (Glaeser, Dennis A)
25. 07:24 AM - Wiring/routing in a complex IFR QB kit (Paul Folbrecht)
26. 07:25 AM - Re: AOA indicator? (JOHN STARN)
27. 07:35 AM - Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse (Bob J)
28. 07:39 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (LML Klingmuller)
29. 08:19 AM - Re: glareshield fabric (Walter Tondu)
30. 08:29 AM - Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 (Walter Tondu)
31. 08:30 AM - Re: Ameri-King defective ELT from the box (Karen and Robert Brown)
32. 08:42 AM - Re: AOA indicator? (Karen and Robert Brown)
33. 09:36 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
34. 10:05 AM - Re: Camlocs on cowl (Jeff Point)
35. 10:22 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (sportav8r@aol.com)
36. 10:22 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (sportav8r@aol.com)
37. 10:27 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
38. 10:44 AM - instrument FliteSchool overstock sale (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
39. 10:46 AM - AOA indicator for $60 ()
40. 10:58 AM - Re: AOA indicator? (Cory Emberson)
41. 11:47 AM - Re: AOA indicator for $60 (Richard Dudley)
42. 12:13 PM - Re: Glare shield covering (CW Crane)
43. 12:18 PM - Re: Fuel Selector Malfunction (Ivan McLaws)
44. 01:39 PM - Re: AOA indicator (Bob)
45. 02:27 PM - RV4 Brakes (brucebell74)
46. 05:41 PM - Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 (Richard Crosley)
47. 05:45 PM - Re: AOA indicator (JOHN STARN)
48. 06:01 PM - Re: AOA indicator (Cory Emberson)
49. 07:35 PM - Re: AOA indicator (Doug Rozendaal)
50. 07:38 PM - Re: Camlocs on cowl (Brian Alley)
51. 08:46 PM - Dynon D-10A Ticking (Jerry Isler)
52. 09:32 PM - Camlocs on cowl (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
53. 10:10 PM - AOA indicator (EMAproducts@aol.com)
54. 11:48 PM - Re: AOA indicator? (Bob 1)
Message 1
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| Subject: | John Kent sent you this eBay item: Ferranti Mk14 Gyro Horizon |
and Inverter Kit (#4551535658)
--> RV-List message posted by: "eBay Member: jakent@unison.ie" <member@ebay.com>
piratekent1 sent you this eBay item.
Personal message:
O.K. for starters this guy is NOT a relative!
However, I did buy one of these units and it is really good and pretty much set
up for RVs.
The reserve as I recall is fairly high, reflecting the quality of the goods, but
it still beats the hell out of any other electric steam gauge on the market,
with good credentials to boot - read the description for details.
Just thought some of the listers might want to check it out.
John Kent RV-4 EI-DIY.
=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09
View this Item on eBay at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item4551535658&ssPageNameADME:B:EF:US:1
Ferranti Mk14 Gyro Horizon and Inverter Kit
Item number: 4551535658
Seller: adtempus(550)
Positive Feedback: 99.5%
Member since Nov-10-00 in United Kingdom
Starting bid: US $10.00
(Reserve not met)
Time left: 6 days 0 hours
10-day listing
Ends May-30-0510:20:29 PDT
Item location: Oxford, Oxfordshire
United Kingdom
Ships to: Worldwide
Summary
Ferranti Attitude Indicator / Gyro Horizon. Model: FH14F/1, RAF Stores Ref: 6A/14030,
Ferranti Part No: 64/51030, cable and a 115volt 400Hz inverter to drive
it, making up a complete kit, ready to use. Gyro fits standard 3.25" sq panel
hole and has electric levelling / fast erect via push button switch on face.
The inverter is a professionally built pwm design, with glass epoxy pcb's in a
small diecast box. It uses digital logic and power mosfets to generate a sine
wave 115v 400Hz regulated output via custom wound transformers. It also provides
a 24 volt dc ouput to drive low power 24 volt dc instruments and incorporates
timing logic to auto level the gyro while spinning up, soft start, low
voltage and reverse polarity protection and rfi suppression. It draws approx
1.8 amps at a nominal 12-14 volt input, once the gyro is fully spun up. A
different build of the inverter will power Ferranti Mk 6 series horizons, other
horizons and instruments that require a 115 volt 400Hz single or three phase
supply. The inverter has a true 3 phase output, so will drive gyros such as
the Sfena series and other gyros that are fussy about input power. Please enquire
if you need an inverter only for other applications.
The horizon is ex uk mod, hermetically sealed and is mil quality. It is checked
out in the lab here and run for a couple of days before shipment. As received,
it is set up for an approx 8 degree slope instrument panel angle, but can be
reworked here for other panel angles, resealed and inert gas filled before shipment
on request. The inverter and cable assembly is made to order and delivery
for the complete horizon / inverter kit is 3-4 weeks. As this is an ex mod
surplus instrument, there is no paperwork, so should only be used in homebuilt,
experimental or permit aircraft. Warranty is 12 months for the horizon and
lifetime for the inverter. These gyros originally cost the uk government ~12k
each, so now quite good value when compared against the cost of other electric
horizons.
Notes:
Unless otherwise stated, this item is in good working order and has been examined
to the best of my ability, with known faults described . Spares, repair or
parts item sales are as is, final and may have faults not known to myself, though
every effort is made to describe accurately.
Thanks for looking and good luck with the bidding...
Finally:
As part of a long term interest in the restoration, servicing and enjoyment of
old mechanical cameras, am now offering a cla / repair service for such cameras,
lenses, obscure stuff like Nikon F and F2 Photomic heads, motor drives and
other electric and electronic photo related items. The main business here is
electronic design and embedded systems engineering, but have restored old photo
equipment as a part time business for many years. Nikon and rangefinders
are the main interest, but may be able to help with others as well, though to
do the job properly on any 30 or 40 year old camera usually means a stripdown
and can take several hours. I can also modify the older cameras to use alkaline
cells, as a replacement for the mercury types. If you have any questions with
regard to this, please get in touch.
=09=09=09
=09=09=09
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Message 2
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|
| Subject: | Beta software available for GPSMAP 296 |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
In case users or perspective users aren't on Garmin's email list, I thought I'd
forward for your perusal.
Lucky
do not archive
Garmin is pleased to announce that beta software is available for the GPSMAP
296.
You can download the beta software from our website by clicking the following
link:
http://www.garmin.com/support/agree.jsp?id=738
*********** Please Note! *************
This is BETA software. Although this software is believed to be reliable,
it has not yet been released for production and should be used at your own risk.
**************************************
Changes made from version 3.20 to 3.21 Beta:
* Added support for ADIZ airspace.
* Added ability to highlight and review multiple overlapping airspaces with the
map cursor.
* Added warning message at powerup if terrain or obstacle data is missing.
* Added audible warning for terrain and obstacle alerts.
* Added display of estimated time to fly to map cursor when panning on the Map
page in Aviation mode.
* Added support for German tide stations.
* Added support for more time zones.
* Added support for NMEA BWC and extended DSC (DSE) sentences.
* Added support for LakeMaster maps.
* Added ability to select a particular map family when performing an address
search.
* Added ability to stop navigation from the Current Route page when in
Automotive mode.
* Changed calculation of ETE and ETA in Aviation mode to match that used by
Garmin panel-mount avionics.
* Improved automatic zoom behavior of terrain popup map.
* Improved supression of nuisance terrian and obstacle alerts.
* Improved visibility of runways on the map.
* Improved accuracy of track log generation.
* Improved readability of owner information text during powerup.
* Improved USB transfers from MapSource.
* Increased resolution of distance fields when in Marine mode.
* Corrected behavior of vertical navigation when VNAV target is beyond the
selected waypoint.
* Corrected behavior of VNAV setup page.
* Corrected shutdown that could occur when performing a TracBack in Automotive
mode.
* Corrected shutdown that could occur on the Line tab of the Map Setup page.
* Corrected default Nearest Type selection on Position page.
* Corrected display of map outlines.
* Corrected functioning of Off Course alarm.
* Corrected date display on Celestial pages.
In case users or perspective users aren't on Garmin's email list, I thought I'd
forward for your perusal.
Lucky
do not archive
Garmin is pleased to announce that beta software is available for the GPSMAP
296.
You can download the beta software from our website by clicking the following
link:
http://www.garmin.com/support/agree.jsp?id=738
*********** Please Note! *************
This is BETA software. Although this software is believed to be reliable,
it has not yet been released for production and should be used at your own risk.
**************************************
Changes made from version 3.20 to 3.21 Beta:
* Added support for ADIZ airspace.
* Added ability to highlight and review multiple overlapping airspaces with the
map cursor.
* Added warning message at powerup if terrain or obstacle data is missing.
* Added audible warning for terrain and obstacle alerts.
* Added display of esti
mated time to fly to map cursor when panning on the Map
page in Aviation mode.
* Added support for German tide stations.
* Added support for more time zones.
* Added support for NMEA BWC and extended DSC (DSE) sentences.
* Added support for LakeMaster maps.
* Added ability to select a particular map family when performing an address
search.
* Added ability to stop navigation from the Current Route page when in
Automotive mode.
* Changed calculation of ETE and ETA in Aviation mode to match that used by
Garmin panel-mount avionics.
* Improved automatic zoom behavior of terrain popup map.
* Improved supression of nuisance terrian and obstacle alerts.
* Improved visibility of runways on the map.
* Improved accuracy of track log generation.
* Improved readability of owner information text during powerup.
* Improved USB transfers from MapSource.
*
Increased resolution of distance fields when in Marine mode.
* Corrected behavior of vertical navigation when VNAV target is beyond the
selected waypoint.
* Corrected behavior of VNAV setup page.
* Corrected shutdown that could occur when performing a TracBack in Automotive
mode.
* Corrected shutdown that could occur on the Line tab of the Map Setup page.
* Corrected default Nearest Type selection on Position page.
* Corrected display of map outlines.
* Corrected functioning of Off Course alarm.
* Corrected date display on Celestial pages.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I bought the PC680 battery box kit from Vans. Works like a charm on my RV7.
I don't see any reason that an RV7 should have an exclusive on this and why
it wouldn't work on an 8. If you got space for the battery, the box is just
a bit bigger and it includes the hold down bar across the top.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
> --> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I just got my Odyssey PC680 battery and am trying to figure out how to
> strap it down to the battery tray on the firewall of my -8A. Vans plans
> show to use a U-shaped extrusion across the top of the battery with two
> long bolts that go through each end of the extrusion and down through the
> sides of the battery tray. Looks like it would work fine for a bigger
> Concorde battery but the tall/skinny PC680 is a different story. I can
> sorta fit the extruded bar across the aft part of the battery with enough
> clearance to stay away from the terminals, but I'm wondering if I also
> need to secure the battery in some way to keep it from tipping or sliding
> forward.
>
> What have others done? Any pics out there?
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dipstick writer...... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
This is what I sent to earthtimes. KABONG Do Not Archive
http://www.earthtimes.org/articles/show/2921.html
Abdul-Salaam Masheer as the author of this report should check his facts
before putting them down on paper. "When a person is thought to be a fool,
he should keep his mouth shut rather than open same & erase all doubt."
HEY Dipstick ! ! A Cessna 150 is a small 105 HP two place gasoline powered
airplane. A "Turboprop" is where a jet engine is interconnected to a
propeller and even the smaller ones produce 450HP and run on JP-4 jet fuel.
From what I saw on TV the airplane in question was a Cessna 152. I think
Abdul should write on subjects where he even has the slightest knowledge
because when it comes to airplanes he don't know @#$%.
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
I'm considering using camlocs on upper cowl half where it meets the
firewall. That way I won't have to fight trying to get hinges and pins to
go around the corners up there. For those of you that used camlocs on your
cowls, what spacing did you use between the camlocs? Also how much edge
distance did you leave between the back edge of the cowl and the camlock?
I assume insufficient distance will result in the fiberglass cracking and
too much distance will result in a not-so-tight fit with respect to the
fuselage skin. Any preferences or recommendations on type of camloc or
specific brand or size? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wiring and plumbing.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Emp Kit for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim McNulty <jfmcnulty2000@yahoo.com>
where is it?
Bradley Kidder <sparksnmagic@usa.net> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Bradley
Kidder
RV-6 Empenage Kit for sale. Some riveting done, perhaps 20% complete.
$950.00
All parts, no damage.
479-474-8777
><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
Brad Kidder .=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
N188FW AA-1 #124 "Hawg One"
AOPA (ASN/KSLG) - EAA - Angel Flight
.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
. , . .=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
---------------------------------
Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news & more. Check it out!
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Barry Chapman" <bcrnfnps@swoi.net>
Thanks Linn, That helped a bunch...
Barry
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Rob, some comments:
> RobHickman@aol.com wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
>>
>>
>>I obviously don=E2=80=99t have an unbiased opinion but here is my story
>>anyway:
>>When I finished my RV-4 I did not buy an AOA for it, it was expensive and
>>I
>>did not really understand it anyway as I had been taught to fly airspeed
>>only. After I had a friend killed in a stall spin accident in his RV, I
>>decided
>>that I needed install a stall warning system in my RV as an added safety
>>measure.
>>
> In my post to Barry, this is what I was referring to .... flying on the
> edge. My first airplane was a Grumman AA-1B ..... the Yankee with
> improved stall characteristics due to an airfoil change. They're slick,
> but not as fast as an RV-4 ;-) . But I digress. the Yankee gained a
> reputation as a widomaker because of approach to landing stall/spin
> accidents. Not the airplanes fault ..... the fault was due to pilots
> transitioning from C-150s without being properly checked out. The
> Grumman requires a little more airspeed on final because the'll sink
> really fast when slowed up. Most pilots will pull the nose up to arrest
> the sink, stall, spin, and impact mother earth in a near-vertical
> attitude. Predictable as sunrise. Here's an example of multiple
> training failures .... in an airplane that has two distinct warnings
> prior to stall. First the laminar flow starts to separate, and the
> noise sounds like someone banging on the wing. Then as the stall
> progresses, the horn goes off. Then, if the pilot is really stubborn,
> it will stall. My point here is that, even with two warnings, both
> audible, the pilot continued to pull the nose up because that's what
> makes an airplane go up and the ground is getting closer faster.
>
>> I called Jim Frantz and ordered his AOA Pro system. After installing
>>the system I was very pleased with how it worked as a stall warning
>>system. I
>>was even more surprised as how useful it was as a reference for landing
>>and
>>takeoff. The AOA will tell you your best approach angle of attack
>>regardless
>>of gross weight, bank angle, and altitude. You will find that you will
>>make
>>better and more consistent landings when you use the AOA.
>>The AOA will also give you L/D max regardless of gross weight, bank
>>angle,
>>and altitude which gives you Vy and best engine out glide.
>>We find that pilots that have been in the Navy and have used AOA are the
>>easiest to sell to. I have even had Navy Pilots tell me that they will
>>not get
>>into a plane without an AOA.
>>
> AOAs are also good for airliners too, but we don't have anything near as
> sophisticated as a military jet or a 747. Landing a big fighter on a
> little postage stamp bobbing in the water requires precision that we, as
> general aviation pilots really don't need. That's just my opinion, and
> I'm not saying that to kill a sale. By all means, if you think you'll
> be safer with an AOA unit .... plunk down your cash. You may just be
> right.
>
>>Here is a good article that Jerry VanGrunsven helped write:
>>_http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/AOAarticles/KitPlanes%20Article.pdf_
>>(http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/AOAarticles/KitPlanes%20Article.pdf)
>>
>>Last year I got the opportunity to purchase the AOA product line from Jim
>>Frantz and have added it to our existing product line.
>>
> I've looked critically at your AOA, and I'm impressed with it's
> abilities. I'm just not sure that it's a necessary item for me.
>
>>A stall warning system that does not have an audible warning is not going
>>to
>>help you if you get into trouble. Also if you modify the Airfoil (put the
>>flaps down) you will change the AOA performance values and your AOA
>>instrument
>>had better take this into account to be accurate.
>>
> And that's what impressed me about the unit. That's about the best
> selling point ..... IMHO
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>>Rob Hickman
>>www.Advanced-Flight-Systems.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
i got my material at jo anne fabrics. it's a vinyl like material but it is so
flat black that it works better than any paint job I could have done. when you
see it in the store compared to the others you will recognize immediately it's
worthy of consideration. i can't imagine what it's normally bought for. the
lady at the checkout asked me what i was going to us it for and her reply was
it would be perfect. there isn't anything shiny about it.
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk"
>
> List,
>
> I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield.
It
> must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
> rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, Finish
>
>
>
>
>
>
i got my material at jo anne fabrics. it's a vinyl like material but it is so flat
black that it works better than any paint job I could have done. when you
see it in the store compared to the others you will recognize immediately it's
worthy of consideration. i can't imagine what it's normally bought for. the lady
at the checkout asked me what i was going to us it for and her reply was it
would be perfect. there isn't anything shiny about it.
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <RV8STRIKER@HOTMAIL.COM>
List,
I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield. It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
Thanks in advance.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, Finish
Message 9
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| Subject: | Any RV'rs or EAA in Churchville MD??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6160hp@aol.com
Hello David McManmon here
Flapjack2
RV6 Builder and Pilot, Syracuse NY.
Past President and Board Member EAA 486
Flying my RV6 into Churchville, 0W3 Harford Co. this Thursday dinner time.
Departing most likely Memorial Day or Tuesday.
Spending the weekend with my brother, lives about 7 miles from the Airport.
Wish me good weather window=E2=80=A6Thursday the only hope departing here=E2=80=A6..(VFR)
I was wondering if:
Any EAA activity there over the weekend?
Any one with hanger space to put me in?
I would trade a hour or so stick time in my RV=E2=80=A6..
Any near by RV wanna be=E2=80=99s, projects and so on that should perhaps we should
meet?
Might have windows of time to play while down there
After today
EMAIL
_MCMAND@AOL.COM_ (mailto:MCMAND@AOL.COM)
Respectfully
David McManmon
Message 10
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| Subject: | Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Hey Jamie,
I had a similar issue on my 8 fuse, although not as severe. I put some
light aluminum angle across the area to clear it up. You might need 2
strips. Run the angle as far across and up the curve as possible, you
can get the alum angle to bend a bit across that length and it will firm
it up.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jamie Painter
Subject: RV-List: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse
--> RV-List message posted by: Jamie Painter <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
Listers:
I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
I've searched the archives and it seems that other people have had oil
canning on the bottom skins, so I'm not too surprised it's happening.
It just seems that in my case the oil canning is quite severe. I've
made a video to demonstrate. You can download it here:
http://rv.jpainter.org/oil_canning.mpg
What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
should I stop now and take corrective action?
Any thoughts appreciated.
- Jamie
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Steve Struyk wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
>
>List,
>
>I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield. It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
>
Yup. Get some speaker grille cloth. You'll be able to stretch it
around the edges to get it tight. Use clothes pins to hold the cloth
and contact cement on the backside only to hold the cloth down.
Linn
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Steve Struyk
>St. Charles, MO
>RV-8, Finish
>
>
>
>
--
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I had some oil canning on the aft fuse belly too. Fixed it by prosealing
a piece of .025 anlge across it.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Jamie Painter said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jamie Painter <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
> Listers:
>
> I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
> on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
> was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
> It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
> canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
> the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
>
> I've searched the archives and it seems that other people have had oil
> canning on the bottom skins, so I'm not too surprised it's happening.
> It just seems that in my case the oil canning is quite severe. I've
> made a video to demonstrate. You can download it here:
>
> http://rv.jpainter.org/oil_canning.mpg
>
> What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
> deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
> should I stop now and take corrective action?
>
> Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> - Jamie
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I'm real happy with the black suade on my glare shield. Attached with
spray adhesive.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Steve Struyk said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
>
> List,
>
> I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare
> shield. It must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too
> shiny and I'd rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, Finish
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on cowl |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I used about 4 inch spacing, adjusted for looks. They recommend using 5/8
in. edge distance (I think) and thats what I used. I believe I used the
2600 series with floating receptacles. They are expensive but very well
made and easy to install. They have packages set up for RV's already. Give
camloc a call.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Camlocs on cowl
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
> I'm considering using camlocs on upper cowl half where it meets the
> firewall. That way I won't have to fight trying to get hinges and pins to
> go around the corners up there. For those of you that used camlocs on
> your
> cowls, what spacing did you use between the camlocs? Also how much edge
> distance did you leave between the back edge of the cowl and the camlock?
> I assume insufficient distance will result in the fiberglass cracking and
> too much distance will result in a not-so-tight fit with respect to the
> fuselage skin. Any preferences or recommendations on type of camloc or
> specific brand or size? Thanks.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Wiring and plumbing.
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
You need to add shims under the rivets. You could possibly also bend the
tabs on the ribs to get them to fit more tightly against the skin, but you
may already be too far along to do that without severely enlarging the holes
in the ribs. So, if you do not add something under the riveting area, you
will have a real bad case of rivet puckering. Cut some small pieces of
scrap sheet into squares the size of the rib tabs. Make the thickness just
thick enough you can barely slip it between the rib and skin. Be sure it is
dimpled before slipping it in. Then you rivet. You can also use a liquid
shim. It is made with epoxy and flox. You push the epoxy between the skin
and rib, let it set up overnight and then redrill to open a hole through the
epoxy and then rivet. You will have to use longer rivets than the plans
call for. I would try to measure how much slack you have between the ribs
and skin by seeing how big a shim you can slip in there and call Vans. See
what they think. I would not rivet the skin until you do something to take
up the slack.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers
that it can bribe the public with the public's own money."
Alexis de Toqueville
----- Original Message ----- > Listers:
>
> I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
> on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
> was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
> It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
> canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
> the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
>
>
> What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
> deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
> should I stop now and take corrective action?
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4WGH@aol.com
FWIW,
I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of my -4 if
I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said hands
down, an AOA.
Happy Flying Safely,
Wally Hunt
RV-4 Finishing Kit, AFS-AOA
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on cowl |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8@bresnan.net>
Check Randy Lervold's web site
http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm#Cowl%20fasteners
Mauri Morin
RV-8
Polson, Mt.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Camlocs on cowl
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
> I'm considering using camlocs on upper cowl half where it meets the
> firewall. That way I won't have to fight trying to get hinges and pins to
> go around the corners up there. For those of you that used camlocs on
> your
> cowls, what spacing did you use between the camlocs? Also how much edge
> distance did you leave between the back edge of the cowl and the camlock?
> I assume insufficient distance will result in the fiberglass cracking and
> too much distance will result in a not-so-tight fit with respect to the
> fuselage skin. Any preferences or recommendations on type of camloc or
> specific brand or size? Thanks.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Wiring and plumbing.
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Jamie
If you decide to add stiffeners to your floor skins, please tie them into
the related bulkheads. If you simply rivet or ProSeal them to the floor,
the oil canning energy will be focused at the end points of the stiffeners.
This will accellerate cracking at these points. I can email you photos of
how I did this on my RV-8A off list if you like.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jamie Painter <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
>Listers:
>
>I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
>on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
>was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
>It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
>canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
>the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
>
>I've searched the archives and it seems that other people have had oil
>canning on the bottom skins, so I'm not too surprised it's happening.
>It just seems that in my case the oil canning is quite severe. I've
>made a video to demonstrate. You can download it here:
>
>http://rv.jpainter.org/oil_canning.mpg
>
>What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
>deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
>should I stop now and take corrective action?
>
>Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> - Jamie
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know quite
why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel will
have a crash strip of some sort.
hal
RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
Message 20
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| Subject: | glareshield fabric |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier@lamar.colostate.edu>
Time: 11:37:34 PM PST US
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Glare shield covering
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
List,
I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield.
It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
--- Contact DJ Lauritsen at Cleaveland tools. She has some very good fabric
and a color selection. I got dark green and am very happy with it.
Don Piermattei
RV-9A 192DP
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
oil canning is usually easy to remedy. You can either add a stiffener
now or later, ignore it, or sell the project... ok, don't sell the
project.
You can either rivet or proseal the stiffener in place.
Vince
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
It's no surprise to me that the fighter jocks all want an AOA. #1, they're
used to them. #2, the yank-n-bank flying they do demands one, IMO. I'm not
gonna be yankin' and bankin' my 9A around. If I was building a 7 and planning
acro, it'd be a done deal. As I said, I'd like to have one, and will probably
get one, especially if I can get a deal.
I need to write a tool to do daily ebay searches for me and mail me the
results...
do not archive
--- RV4WGH@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV4WGH@aol.com
>
> FWIW,
>
> I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
> and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of my -4
> if
> I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said hands
> down, an AOA.
>
> Happy Flying Safely,
>
> Wally Hunt
> RV-4 Finishing Kit, AFS-AOA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Jamie,
This doesn't appear too abnormal...I just added a stiffener made of 3/4 X
3/4 X .063 angle between the bulkheads. Used #3 rivets about 1" spacing.
Works great.
Pat Hatch
Listers:
I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
- Jamie
Message 24
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
I'd be glad to 'lend' you one of mine (kid, not grandkid) - no
babysitting, and he only has 3 years of college left...
His brother and sister are already through college - wish you'd have
asked a lot sooner ;-)
Dennis Glaeser
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu
Damm, I'm grandfathered and I don't even have any kids yet.
Does this mean I have to put them through college after
babysitting them for
18 years?
;{)
do not archive
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Wiring/routing in a complex IFR QB kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Perusing a few nice 7/9 sites over the last couple days, I've read a few
different comments re: running wire with some people saying that the
standard holes are not enough. This has got me thinking about all the
wiring I'm going to need to run through my IFR QB bird and wondering
about issues. I know Van's thinks "VFR" when it comes to the QB kits.
I know you can run stuff easily enough through the wings but the fuse is
maybe another situation.
If you've built a full-QB kit and wired it for full lights, AP (I'm now
planning just a 1-axis DigiTrak), remote AHRS/magnetometer, along with
6+ antennas (2 com, nav, GPS, ELT, transponder), please mail me off the
list. I'm really curious as to what issues you ran into with the QB kit
and how you handled them.
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
AOA is not just a stall warning devise. The "normal" stall warning goes off
when it's almost too late. One single setting for one single circumstance.
AOA is a series of several flight conditions indicated by lights. Just like
the VASI lights that change configurations as you approach the end of the
runway. Stall warning is like the oil light on your car that lights up when
its too late. AOA is more like you noticing that the oil light will
"flicker" under hard braking or the needle on the oil gauge is rebounding
from 0. This happens long before you hear, feel or smell the lack of oil
pressure. Some say you can hear the speed by listening to the song of the
wires but sadly HRII doesn't have wires in the wind so we use the AOA as a
reasonable modern backup. KABONG Do Not Archive
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Barry Chapman wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Barry Chapman" <bcrnfnps@swoi.net>
> BTW, the AOA will also let you fly on the edge in a descent as well as a
> climb ....... but, again, why would you do that???
> Linn ..... hope you aren't sorry you asked :-)
> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>>I, for one, won't have a stall warning horn nor an AOA indicator. Just
>>>my viewpoint. IMHO, and YMMV.
>>>Linn
>>>do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
Charlie, you're correct. I have stiffeners I added in the belly on my
-6, the skin quickly cracked at the first and last rivets. If I had
to do it over again I'd get some closed cell foam 3/8" thick and hysol
that to the belly. I've seen that trick done and it takes all of five
minutes to do, and eliminates the possibility of the skin cracking.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
On 5/25/05, Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Jamie
> If you decide to add stiffeners to your floor skins, please tie them into
> the related bulkheads. If you simply rivet or ProSeal them to the floor,
> the oil canning energy will be focused at the end points of the stiffeners.
> This will accellerate cracking at these points. I can email you photos of
> how I did this on my RV-8A off list if you like.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jamie Painter <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
> >
> >Listers:
> >
> >I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
> >on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
> >was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
> >It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
> >canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
> >the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
> >
> >I've searched the archives and it seems that other people have had oil
> >canning on the bottom skins, so I'm not too surprised it's happening.
> >It just seems that in my case the oil canning is quite severe. I've
> >made a video to demonstrate. You can download it here:
> >
> >http://rv.jpainter.org/oil_canning.mpg
> >
> >What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
> >deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
> >should I stop now and take corrective action?
> >
> >Any thoughts appreciated.
> >
> > - Jamie
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
Try black velvet.
I used non-glare black paint, dull vynel and even a black towel, but all had some
reflection. The black velvet works best and after 450 hrs (3 1/5 yrs) there
has been no need to clean.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: glareshield fabric |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 05/25 7:49, Don/Marcia Piermattei wrote:
> I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield.
> It
> must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
> rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
Go to a store like JoAnn Fabrics. Ask where the faux (fake) leather
is. The stuff is very durable and has no gloss/glare to it. It has
a cloth backing. Glue it on with rubber cement. Get the good stuff
though otherwise it may unstick in the heat. If you want you can
place some foam between the faux leather and aluminum for a cushy
feel, about 1/8" works well.
Try to ignore all the women there snikering at you...
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 05/24 6:46, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> I bought the PC680 battery box kit from Vans. Works like a charm on my RV7.
> I don't see any reason that an RV7 should have an exclusive on this and why
> it wouldn't work on an 8. If you got space for the battery, the box is just
> a bit bigger and it includes the hold down bar across the top.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
I agree with Larry, buy the PC680 battery box kit from Vans.
Then when you get it, make this modification so you can get the
battery out easily without having to lift it straight up, allowing
you to place items on the firewall above the battery, in close
proximity.
http://rv7-a.com/firewall_finish.htm#battery%20box%20mods
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King defective ELT from the box |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
My neighbor had exactly the same experience...installed a new ELT, it didn't work
when tested at annual...AmeriKing said to send it in and charged him $169.00.
Bob Brown
do not archive
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Those engineering types...always showing off their skills!
I couldn't resist it Rob...
Bob Brown
do not archive
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
vinyl is going to cause acrylic to break? I've never heard that one before. Where
can one read up on a test that proves that?
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne
>
>
> Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
> that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
> windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
>
> I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know
> quite why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
> act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
> prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel
> will have a crash strip of some sort.
>
> hal
>
> RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
>
>
>
>
>
>
vinyl is going to cause acrylic to break? I've never heard that one before. Where
can one read up on a test that proves that?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <HAL_KEMPTHORNE@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know
quite why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel
will have a crash strip of some sort.
hal
RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
====================================================
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on cowl |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I'll second what Jeff Dowling said, 4 inch spacing, 5/8 edge distance.
However I think the 4002 is what I used, not the 2600. Specifically the
SK245-4 floating receptacles.
I've got a few pics on my website:
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/camlocks.htm
http://www.skybolt.com/ is the website for Skybolt.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Black felt with spray adhesive; $1.88/yd at WalMart, IIRC. I recently installed
this over the flat black paint finish I had been living with for 7 years - annoyingly
reflective. The felt is nice and black, looks good, cheap & easy to
replace if ever needed.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: lucky <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield covering
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
i got my material at jo anne fabrics. it's a vinyl like material but it is so
flat black that it works better than any paint job I could have done. when you
see it in the store compared to the others you will recognize immediately it's
worthy of consideration. i can't imagine what it's normally bought for. the
lady at the checkout asked me what i was going to us it for and her reply was it
would be perfect. there isn't anything shiny about it.
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk"
>
> List,
>
> I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield.
It
> must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
> rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, Finish
>
>
>
>
>
>
i got my material at jo anne fabrics. it's a vinyl like material but it is so
flat black that it works better than any paint job I could have done. when you
see it in the store compared to the others you will recognize immediately it's
worthy of consideration. i can't imagine what it's normally bought for. the lady
at the checkout asked me what i was going to us it for and her reply was it
would be perfect. there isn't anything shiny about it.
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <RV8STRIKER@HOTMAIL.COM>
List,
I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield. It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
Thanks in advance.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, Finish
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Black felt with spray adhesive; $1.88/yd at WalMart, IIRC. I recently installed
this over the flat black paint finish I had been living with for 7 years - annoyingly
reflective. The felt is nice and black, looks good, cheap & easy to
replace if ever needed.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: lucky <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield covering
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
i got my material at jo anne fabrics. it's a vinyl like material but it is so
flat black that it works better than any paint job I could have done. when you
see it in the store compared to the others you will recognize immediately it's
worthy of consideration. i can't imagine what it's normally bought for. the
lady at the checkout asked me what i was going to us it for and her reply was it
would be perfect. there isn't anything shiny about it.
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk"
>
> List,
>
> I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield.
It
> must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
> rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, Finish
>
>
>
>
>
>
i got my material at jo anne fabrics. it's a vinyl like material but it is so
flat black that it works better than any paint job I could have done. when you
see it in the store compared to the others you will recognize immediately it's
worthy of consideration. i can't imagine what it's normally bought for. the lady
at the checkout asked me what i was going to us it for and her reply was it
would be perfect. there isn't anything shiny about it.
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <RV8STRIKER@HOTMAIL.COM>
List,
I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield. It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
Thanks in advance.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, Finish
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I just called Todd at Todd's Canopies and he's never heard of vinyl being bad for
acrylic. What he did say was heat is the enemy for any canopy and not because
it would break but just the opposite. It becomes too soft and messes up the
optics.
At 170 degrees they get soooo soft they can leave permanent distortions which will
screw up the optics. So his concern is a glareshield that abosrbs and radiates
so much heat that this scenario could play out. But when I described to
him what I was using (some fake leather like material with a white colored backing)
he said no problem. He also said if you leave it out like at sun and fun
or out west in the desert put one of those cotton type coverings over your
canopy and forget about it. Seems to be one case for the skirts NOT to fit so
well :-)
The other item he mentioned is that if the canopy is touching some other plastic
(like the plastic the ships with) it can fuse together it left on too long in
super hot conditions.
And just to throw this in, he says don't use masking tape or duct tape or anything
else other than 3M vinyl electrical tape on the canopy. He recommends Novus
plastic cleaning products as well found usually at boat supply places like
West Marine.
Lucky
I just called Todd at Todd's Canopies and he's never heard of vinyl being bad for
acrylic. What he did say was heat is the enemy for any canopy and not because
it would break but just the opposite. It becomes too soft and messes up the
optics.
At 170 degrees they get soooo soft they can leave permanent distortions which will
screw up the optics. So his concern is a glareshield that abosrbs and radiates
so much heat that this scenario could play out. But when I described to him
what I was using (some fake leather like material with a white colored backing)
he said no problem. He also said if you leave it out like at sun and fun
or out west in the desert put one of those cotton type coverings over your canopy
and forget about it. Seems to be one case for the skirts NOT to fit so well
:-)
The other item he mentioned is that if the canopy is touching some other plastic
(like the plastic the ships with) it can fuse together it left on too long in
super hot conditions.
And just to throw this in, he says don't use masking tape or duct tape or anything
else other than 3M vinyl electrical tape on the canopy. He recommends Novus
plastic cleaning products as well found usually at boat supply places like West
Marine.
Lucky
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | instrument FliteSchool overstock sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
For some reason, Builder's Bookstore has become way overstocked on
Jeppesen's Instrument FliteSchool CD.
If you are considering an instrument rating, these FliteSchool CDs is a neat
way to get started with the knowledge portion. Fliteschool is an
interactive homestudy course with graphics, animation, and video. It also
includes electronic versions of the Jeppesen Instrument textbook, the
FAR/AIM, and a testprep program giving all the FAA written questions,
answers and explanations. It lets you take practice tests, and once you've
passed, your scores are sent to Jeppesen and you get a written sign-off to
take the actual FAA test.
This is normally a $160 item, but I've got 15 to sell for $99.95. We'll
keep this going till the end of the week or until they sell out sell out.
Here's the web address with more details
http://www.buildersbooks.com/instrument_fliteschool_jeppesen.htm
If you want to order one on-line, write "price $99.95 per Andy" in the order
form special instruction box, or jest call and order by phone at 800
780-4115
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
do not archive
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | AOA indicator for $60 |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Here are some ideas for a homemade AOA, airspeed warning or stall warning, you
can make or by for less than $90:
You can make an AOA for $60 and it will work just like the LRI (Lift reserve indicator) Sam Buchanan mentions below. The instructions to make it are here and look very easy to duplicate: http://www.snyder.on.ca/pages/lri.htm
It shows a nice drawing for making a probe out of a piece of aluminum bar. The
gage is made from an off-the-shelf industrial differential pressure gage. The
2-1/6 dia. gage is mechanical and very sensitive. Specs for the gage:
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pr...2-5000Intro.CFM
This was off a Sonex Builders Web Site, and yes there are other home built kits
out there. I would imagine the probe could be made from other materials and the
face of the gage can be modified with color-coded lift scale (provided in instructions).
Also there is a version of the LRI, Aircraft Angle of Attack 2.25"
Instrument Kit, on eBay for $325.
Indicated airspeed warning is not AOA. There is a big difference and the uEncoder
does not have AOA info, but does have a low speed airspeed warning. Which certainly
could be of some use at least in wings level 1G flight. You could install
a pressure switch and relay to make a visual and/or aural alarm for low
speed. The aural alarm could be a simple sound effect circuit from and electronic
kit that is connected to the aircrafts radios or intercoms aux input. Cost
could be done for $50 or less. You would have to figure out how to keep it from
going off on the ground. (ideas).
You can buy or make stall tab with a micro switch like factory planes have (less
than $90). These are true AOA sensors but with only one indication, (near) critical
angle of attack.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/redstallwarner.php. You can check out a RV-6a builders site that shows this set up, LOOK left side bottom and click -Stall warning
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
I think AOA, airspeed and stall warning are all good, but I don't think you need
to spend thousands of dollars. In fact there is another unit called Riteangle,
off the shelf stall warning. Worth a look and lots of installed pictures on
RVs and other experimental aircraft. My RV does not have any of the above and
have flown for over 800 hours without un-intentionally stalling. I have stalled
my RV in all attitudes intentionally up to 3-G loading. That helps develop
a feel for what it does near critical angle of attack. The FAA calls this stall
avoidance or awareness. Of course if you plan on being inattentive to airspeed
control than you need one of the above, but guess no one plans on loosing airspeed
control. RVs fly very slow and have a small range of angle of attack.
Jets have very large range of operational angle of attack and don't have sufficent
natural feel, thus they need artificial stick shakers and AOA indicators.
AOA indicator for a RV is an option, a good one opti
on, but
it is not necsessary to fly safely. Fly airspeed with normal margins (Vso x 1.3)
and you will be OK. In RV aerobatics under load, the buffet is obvious before
stall.
Cheers George
=============================================
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
> posted by: "Ron Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
>
> If you have got to spend $800, I would highly recommend the RMI uEncoder kit.
It has a > stall horn included - along with:
> http://www.rkymtn.com/EncFeatures.htm
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>> posted by: Sam Buchanan<sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>>
>> I have no interest in resurrecting the old debate about which AOA system is
"best", but >> for new listers who may be researching angle of attack systems,
here is an article about >> my installation of the Lift Reserve
>>
>> Indicator:http://thervjournal.com/liftreserve.htm
>>
>> After flying the LRI for several years, I consider it a valuable part of the
panel.
Message 40
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
Hi Paul,
eBay does have a feature to monitor an item for you - I believe it's in the
"Favorite Searches" feature.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
It's no surprise to me that the fighter jocks all want an AOA. #1, they're
used to them. #2, the yank-n-bank flying they do demands one, IMO. I'm not
gonna be yankin' and bankin' my 9A around. If I was building a 7 and
planning
acro, it'd be a done deal. As I said, I'd like to have one, and will
probably
get one, especially if I can get a deal.
I need to write a tool to do daily ebay searches for me and mail me the
results...
do not archive
--- RV4WGH@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV4WGH@aol.com
>
> FWIW,
>
> I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
> and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of
my -4
> if
> I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said
hands
> down, an AOA.
>
> Happy Flying Safely,
>
> Wally Hunt
> RV-4 Finishing Kit, AFS-AOA
>
>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator for $60 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi George,
In trying to access the second link in your email, it responded with an
error and not the specs for the gauge.
RHDudley
gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>
>Here are some ideas for a homemade AOA, airspeed warning or stall warning, you
can make or by for less than $90:
>
>
>You can make an AOA for $60 and it will work just like the LRI (Lift reserve indicator) Sam Buchanan mentions below. The instructions to make it are here and look very easy to duplicate: http://www.snyder.on.ca/pages/lri.htm
>It shows a nice drawing for making a probe out of a piece of aluminum bar. The
gage is made from an off-the-shelf industrial differential pressure gage. The
2-1/6 dia. gage is mechanical and very sensitive. Specs for the gage:
>http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pr...2-5000Intro.CFM
>This was off a Sonex Builders Web Site, and yes there are other home built kits
out there. I would imagine the probe could be made from other materials and
the face of the gage can be modified with color-coded lift scale (provided in
instructions). Also there is a version of the LRI, Aircraft Angle of Attack 2.25"
Instrument Kit, on eBay for $325.
>
>
>Indicated airspeed warning is not AOA. There is a big difference and the uEncoder
does not have AOA info, but does have a low speed airspeed warning. Which
certainly could be of some use at least in wings level 1G flight. You could install
a pressure switch and relay to make a visual and/or aural alarm for low
speed. The aural alarm could be a simple sound effect circuit from and electronic
kit that is connected to the aircrafts radios or intercoms aux input. Cost
could be done for $50 or less. You would have to figure out how to keep it
from going off on the ground. (ideas)
>
>
>You can buy or make stall tab with a micro switch like factory planes have (less
than $90). These are true AOA sensors but with only one indication, (near)
critical angle of attack.
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/redstallwarner.php. You can check out a RV-6a builders site that shows this set up, LOOK left side bottom and click -Stall warning
>
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
>
>
>I think AOA, airspeed and stall warning are all good, but I don't think you need
to spend thousands of dollars. In fact there is another unit called Riteangle,
off the shelf stall warning. Worth a look and lots of installed pictures on
RVs and other experimental aircraft. My RV does not have any of the above and
have flown for over 800 hours without un-intentionally stalling. I have stalled
my RV in all attitudes intentionally up to 3-G loading. That helps develop
a feel for what it does near critical angle of attack. The FAA calls this stall
avoidance or awareness. Of course if you plan on being inattentive to airspeed
control than you need one of the above, but guess no one plans on loosing
airspeed control. RVs fly very slow and have a small range of angle of attack.
Jets have very large range of operational angle of attack and don't have sufficent
natural feel, thus they need artificial stick shakers and AOA indicators.
AOA indicator for a RV is an option, a good one opti
> on, but
> it is not necsessary to fly safely. Fly airspeed with normal margins (Vso x 1.3)
and you will be OK. In RV aerobatics under load, the buffet is obvious before
stall.
>
>
>Cheers George
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>posted by: "Ron Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>If you have got to spend $800, I would highly recommend the RMI uEncoder kit.
It has a > stall horn included - along with:
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>http://www.rkymtn.com/EncFeatures.htm
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>>>posted by: Sam Buchanan<sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>>I have no interest in resurrecting the old debate about which AOA system is
"best", but >> for new listers who may be researching angle of attack systems,
here is an article about >> my installation of the Lift Reserve
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>>Indicator:http://thervjournal.com/liftreserve.htm
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>>>After flying the LRI for several years, I consider it a valuable part of the
panel.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: CW Crane <cwcrane@gbronline.com>
On Tue, 24 May 2005 07:17:59 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
>
>List,
>
>I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield. It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Steve Struyk
>St. Charles, MO
>RV-8, Finish
>
I used convertible top fabric/material that I got at an auto trim shop on a 6A.
They also had some edging I used to hold it in place. IIRC it was such a small
quantity there was no charge.
CW Crane
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
I thank you for the advice. My bacon is certainly worth moth than the 38
dollars for the new valve. Thanks again.
Ivan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Selector Malfunction
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
>
> Ivan,
> Replace the damn thing before the next flight!
> It is probably the older brass on brass valve that has a rep for binding
> up. I have one of these in the garage that I turn once in a while just for
> kicks, and it binds every second or third time (although it is well
> lubed).
> I wouldn't even use this paperweight on a garden tractor if I had too!
>
> Get yourself the newer version which is a nylon insert in brass housing.
> It is to cheap to replace to even mess with! After all, what is your bacon
> worth these days?
>
> Other peoples opinions may vary, but this is mine and worth what you paid
> for it.
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ivan McLaws
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 9:40 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Selector Malfunction
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
>
> Well, I finally got my wife to go for a ride in my 50 hour recent 6A. I
> checked the fuel selector valve prior to take off and it was perfect. Got
> down to 1/4 tank on the left and tried to switch to the right.
>
> Big surprise in that there was so much resistance I was afraid I'd break
> off the handle and it would only go as far as off.
>
> This is an old fuel selector but has worked fine until yesterday. I was
> a bit concerned, nay pucker factor when on straight in final I was showing
> 0. I had a field, golf course or a road made if I had to but it worked
> out.
>
> Do you guys have any experience with this type of problem? Can it be
> fixed or do just buy a new one. Believe me when I say I'm leaning towards
> getting a new fuel selector.
>
> Any advice appreciated. Don't want that to happen again if possible.
>
> Ivan McLaws
>
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
I am not big on gadgets and such and I know my airplane well, so an AOA is
not a big deal upright. But, then again, I fly mostly aerobatics and I
have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No big deal, just pull back on
the stick and you are flying again.
So I was thinking, do these AOA indicators work when the aircraft is upside
down developing negative lift. I really would like to know during
aerobatics how close to a stall I really am during the maneuver.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: "brucebell74" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
Hi All,
Last week I started my RV4 for the first time and found a brake problem. The
brakes are applied when the rudder petals are moved left or right. I first
thought it was my big feet but today while pulling it back in the hangar
with my new Bogart Aviation towbar I found the brakes are applied with a
small movement of the rudder. Anyone had this problem? Anyone with a
suggestion?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley@adelphia.net>
Mark,
I used the stock tray, attached an angle piece to the tray to hold the base of
the battery forward against the front of the tray. I used the stock "U" shaped
piece across the top with a couple vertical tabs riveted on the front and back
of the "U" piece to catch the raised portion
on the top of the battery. Works great and if I need to I can revert to a larger
battery easy.
Rich Crosley
N948RC, RV-8
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Gummibear, Ex-USAF F-4 Wild Weasel, has one rule: We go downside up at least
once every flight. The AOA has no idea where the ground is, it just
indicates if and how much "lift" the wing is producing. Stall, inverted at
the top of a loop, been there done that. With HRII, release back stick
pressure, & the wing "flys" again & AOA indicates that. Not sure that you
"need" AOA in an Aircoupe but it couldn't hurt. KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3@brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
> I am not big on gadgets and such and I know my airplane well, so an AOA is
> not a big deal upright. But, then again, I fly mostly aerobatics and I
> have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No big deal, just pull back on
> the stick and you are flying again.
>
> So I was thinking, do these AOA indicators work when the aircraft is
> upside
> down developing negative lift. I really would like to know during
> aerobatics how close to a stall I really am during the maneuver.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
Message 48
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
Thanks for that explanation, John - I was wondering about that. (And it
sounds like fun!)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Gummibear, Ex-USAF F-4 Wild Weasel, has one rule: We go downside up at least
once every flight. The AOA has no idea where the ground is, it just
indicates if and how much "lift" the wing is producing. Stall, inverted at
the top of a loop, been there done that. With HRII, release back stick
pressure, & the wing "flys" again & AOA indicates that. Not sure that you
"need" AOA in an Aircoupe but it couldn't hurt. KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3@brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
> I am not big on gadgets and such and I know my airplane well, so an AOA is
> not a big deal upright. But, then again, I fly mostly aerobatics and I
> have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No big deal, just pull back on
> the stick and you are flying again.
>
> So I was thinking, do these AOA indicators work when the aircraft is
> upside
> down developing negative lift. I really would like to know during
> aerobatics how close to a stall I really am during the maneuver.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
> Gummibear, Ex-USAF F-4 Wild Weasel, has one rule: We go downside up at
least
> once every flight. The AOA has no idea where the ground is, it just
> indicates if and how much "lift" the wing is producing. Stall, inverted at
> the top of a loop, been there done that. With HRII, release back stick
> pressure, & the wing "flys" again & AOA indicates that. Not sure that you
> "need" AOA in an Aircoupe but it couldn't hurt. KABONG Do Not Archive
>
There is some confusion here...... If you stall at the top of a loop by
pulling aft on the stick, that would be "stalling while inverted" and your
AOA will work just fine. If you stall at the top of a loop by pushing the
stick forward, that would be an "inverted stall." That is a different deal
and a differential pressure AOA will show you solidly in the green. (I am
not aware of any AOA system that would indicate correctly in that scenario.)
This is not a problem, or a reason to shy away from AOA, it is a good deal.
Anyone doing this type of acro is not depending on an AOA to do it.
The most common way to inadvertantly do an "inverted stall" is in a
hammerhead. The nose gets past vertical, so you push forward, then kick
rudder with some outside aileron, and Viola, Inverted stall, quickly
followed by an inverted spin.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on cowl |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
Mauri, Checkout Skybolt!! I installed a set in a
Lancair IVP turbine cowling. The adjustable
receptacles save tons of work and time.
http://www.skybolt.com/
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 51
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| Subject: | Dynon D-10A Ticking |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
Tonite I had a visitor looking at my RV-4 when he asked if he could turn
on the master switch. I said "Sure, go ahead" because I always like to see
the little lights come on and and then hear "ANGLE, ANGLE, PUSH" (Yeah
that's right, I spent the money for an AOA). Well nothing happened! No
master relay picking up, no lights, no nothing. I then tried to turn on the
Dynon thinking it would come up on battery back up. Again nothing. The
entire electrical system was dead. I immediately hooked a battery charger to
my Oddessy PC-680 and started a charge. I tried the master switch again and
everything powered up as expected so obviously the battery was completely
dead. The problem is I don't know why. I checked all of the switches and
everything was turned off so I do not think anything was left on.
So now for the real question. I have noticed lately that the Dyon D-10A
was making a ticking noise when everything on the plane was turned off. The
tick is about every second. I have the keep alive circuit wired up to an
always hot bus so that the internal battery in the Dynon will stay charged
up. I think the noise is from this circuit because I disconnected the
connector from the back of the Dynon and the noise stopped and resumed when
it was reconnected. Is this ticking noise normal? Could this be the cause of
my dead battery? Will a dead battery on the plane drain the internal battery
on the Dynon? Will a PC-680 go completely dead if you let the voltage get
down to about 10.5 volts (I have not charged the battery in a while)?
Thanks,
Jerry Isler
RV-4 N455J
Donalsonville, GA
Message 52
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
I'm considering using camlocs on upper cowl half where it meets the
firewall. That way I won't have to fight trying to get hinges and pins to
go around the corners up there. For those of you that used camlocs on your
cowls, what spacing did you use between the camlocs? Also how much edge
distance did you leave between the back edge of the cowl and the camlock?
I assume insufficient distance will result in the fiberglass cracking and
too much distance will result in a not-so-tight fit with respect to the
fuselage skin. Any preferences or recommendations on type of camloc or
specific brand or size? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wiring and plumbing.
Message 53
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--> RV-List message posted by: EMAproducts@aol.com
Gentlemen,
Do you know of ANYBODY that planned on having an accident?
I know many of you have stated you wouldn't install an AOA. I can give you
many satisfied customers that prefer to fly with one. My firm has been
producing AOA's 10 years for the homebuilt industry. We have full voice audio,
LED
indicator, automatically correct for up to 6 flap positions for $599.50. Just
because it costs more doesn't necessarily mean it is better. Our systems are
totally "Stand Alone." We have no computed values, and do not tie into
aircraft pitot static system. We use a vane like the airliners do. Options include
a
"Poor Mans HUD," a Stick Shaker, and other items requested by our customers.
For more info contact me off list.
Elbie Mendenhall
emaproducts@aol.com
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net>
FWIW,
< I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
< and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of
my -4 if
< I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said
hands
< down, an AOA.
Speaking for MYSELF...
I have two younger senior airline captain buddies.
If either jumped off a bridge, I would NOT follow.
FWIW,.
Try getting you homebuilt signed off without an airspeed indicator. <g>
Bob - soloed May 1954 -
Do not archive
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