Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:39 AM - Re: AOA indicator? (JOHN STARN)
2. 01:25 AM - Oshkosh House for Rent (Jeff Point)
3. 04:54 AM - Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking (Jeff Dowling)
4. 06:17 AM - Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check flow at low pressure ? (Bill Schlatterer)
5. 08:38 AM - Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking (Larry Bowen)
6. 09:26 AM - Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check flow at... (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
7. 09:27 AM - AOA~ Inverted (EMAproducts@aol.com)
8. 10:11 AM - Glare shield paint (Darwin N. Barrie)
9. 10:25 AM - Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the box (Hal Kempthorne)
10. 10:38 AM - AOA indicator for $60 (corrected links) ()
11. 10:44 AM - Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the box (Bob 1)
12. 10:53 AM - Re: Glare shield covering (Hal Kempthorne)
13. 11:33 AM - Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from (Paul Folbrecht)
14. 11:37 AM - Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check (Mickey Coggins)
15. 11:58 AM - RV-8a site updated (Stephanie Marshall)
16. 12:02 PM - Re: AOA indicator? ()
17. 12:44 PM - Re: Re: AOA indicator? (Walter Tondu)
18. 01:14 PM - Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the box (Rob Prior (rv7))
19. 01:56 PM - AOA indicator? (JOHN STARN)
20. 01:56 PM - Re: Re: AOA indicator? (Bob)
21. 02:01 PM - Re: Re: AOA indicator? (Doug Rozendaal)
22. 02:02 PM - Re: AOA indicator (Bob)
23. 02:18 PM - Re: Re: AOA indicator? (sportav8r@aol.com)
24. 06:41 PM - Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check flow at... (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
25. 06:42 PM - Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking (Tim Coldenhoff)
26. 07:16 PM - IO-360 crank gear (gert)
27. 07:32 PM - Inverted Flight Belts (was AOA Indicator) (Ted Lumpkin)
28. 08:14 PM - Re: Re: AOA indicator? (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
29. 08:26 PM - Engine Hose Fittings (Emrath)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Gee, we got HRII N561FS signed off without a BACKSEAT (keyword) airspeed
indicator. Course we have a Garmin 195 back there and the AOA indicator is
visible because of it's bright LED lights are mounted high on the right side
of the front seat panel. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net>
>in the back seat of my -4 if I were to put one instrument there. An
>airspeed or and AOA. He said hands down, an AOA.
> Try getting you homebuilt signed off without an airspeed indicator. <g>
Message 2
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Aeroelectric List <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Oshkosh House for Rent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Apologies in advance for this off-topic post. I'm posting this for a
friend who is looking to rent his Oshkosh house during the convention.
It is a 2 year old, 4 bedroom, 2 1/2 bath house, about 2600 sq feet.
Located on Lake Winnebago a very short distance from the Seaplane base,
maybe a 10 minute drive from the airport.
If you have 4 people or 4 couples, renting a house can be an economical
alternative to getting 4 hotel rooms. He has never rented it before,
and the price is not yet set. If anyone is interested I will put you and
he in touch with one another and you can work out the details amongst
yourselves.
I do have pictures if anyone is interested.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I finished installing my Dynon last night so I guess its pretty fresh in my
memory. The way I understand it is that the Dynon will turn off if it loses
power after a 30 sec delay. However, since you have the back up battery and
the keep alive circuit active, it will take up to a max of 20 watts from
your ships battery to stay fully charged. If your Dynon didnt power up, it
sounds like there is something wrong with either your Dynon battery or its
charging circuit. Depending on how long you let it sit, its possible the
Dynon drained your ships battery. I would call the folks at Dynon.
Good luck and please report your findings for the rest of us.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10A Ticking
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
>
> Tonite I had a visitor looking at my RV-4 when he asked if he could turn
> on the master switch. I said "Sure, go ahead" because I always like to see
> the little lights come on and and then hear "ANGLE, ANGLE, PUSH" (Yeah
> that's right, I spent the money for an AOA). Well nothing happened! No
> master relay picking up, no lights, no nothing. I then tried to turn on
> the
> Dynon thinking it would come up on battery back up. Again nothing. The
> entire electrical system was dead. I immediately hooked a battery charger
> to
> my Oddessy PC-680 and started a charge. I tried the master switch again
> and
> everything powered up as expected so obviously the battery was completely
> dead. The problem is I don't know why. I checked all of the switches and
> everything was turned off so I do not think anything was left on.
> So now for the real question. I have noticed lately that the Dyon D-10A
> was making a ticking noise when everything on the plane was turned off.
> The
> tick is about every second. I have the keep alive circuit wired up to an
> always hot bus so that the internal battery in the Dynon will stay charged
> up. I think the noise is from this circuit because I disconnected the
> connector from the back of the Dynon and the noise stopped and resumed
> when
> it was reconnected. Is this ticking noise normal? Could this be the cause
> of
> my dead battery? Will a dead battery on the plane drain the internal
> battery
> on the Dynon? Will a PC-680 go completely dead if you let the voltage get
> down to about 10.5 volts (I have not charged the battery in a while)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV-4 N455J
> Donalsonville, GA
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check flow |
at low pressure ?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Any thoughts on filter fuel flow would be appreciated! I am running an
XP360 carbed engine and want to put a clear fuel filter in each tank feed
line between the tank and the center fuel valve. Russell Performance shows
these filters with a 6AN fitting but says they are no longer in production
and suggests these which have 1/8 npt inlets.
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp?part=RUS-645
420
They are very solid but requite a 1/8 NPT to 6AN adapter and the inlet and
outlet holes (inside the filter just inside the threads) look like about a
3/16 size. Now I am wondering if there is any chance that at full power
this filter might not flow enough fuel. According to the specs, it's a 40
Micron filter and good for 60 GPH at 7 psi.
I know that would be plenty but I also see on the lists that the 360 carbed
engines occasionally show less than 2 PSI and is considered normal. How
would I convert 60 GPH at 7 psi to flow at 1 or 2 psi to check that flow
rate?
Also do you think it would make any difference that the fuel pump is pulling
fuel through the filter as opposed to pushing?
Do I just need to run a gallon through it at no pressure and time it and
then apply some "flow-pressure" formula? If so, what would that be?
I guess I could always drop back to the push on hose type since this is low
pressure but I was trying to stay with all solid connections.
Thanks
Bill S
7a Ark
Fuse/Panel
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
As a trouble-shooting step, if nothing else, disconnect the keep alive
circut to see if anything changes. I only have the main power input
(avionics buss) and internal battery. I chose not to use the keep-alaive
at all. No problems so far.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Jeff Dowling said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
> I finished installing my Dynon last night so I guess its pretty fresh in
> my
> memory. The way I understand it is that the Dynon will turn off if it
> loses
> power after a 30 sec delay. However, since you have the back up battery
> and
> the keep alive circuit active, it will take up to a max of 20 watts from
> your ships battery to stay fully charged. If your Dynon didnt power up,
> it
> sounds like there is something wrong with either your Dynon battery or its
> charging circuit. Depending on how long you let it sit, its possible the
> Dynon drained your ships battery. I would call the folks at Dynon.
>
> Good luck and please report your findings for the rest of us.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 200 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10A Ticking
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
>>
>> Tonite I had a visitor looking at my RV-4 when he asked if he could
>> turn
>> on the master switch. I said "Sure, go ahead" because I always like to
>> see
>> the little lights come on and and then hear "ANGLE, ANGLE, PUSH" (Yeah
>> that's right, I spent the money for an AOA). Well nothing happened! No
>> master relay picking up, no lights, no nothing. I then tried to turn on
>> the
>> Dynon thinking it would come up on battery back up. Again nothing. The
>> entire electrical system was dead. I immediately hooked a battery
>> charger
>> to
>> my Oddessy PC-680 and started a charge. I tried the master switch again
>> and
>> everything powered up as expected so obviously the battery was
>> completely
>> dead. The problem is I don't know why. I checked all of the switches and
>> everything was turned off so I do not think anything was left on.
>> So now for the real question. I have noticed lately that the Dyon D-10A
>> was making a ticking noise when everything on the plane was turned off.
>> The
>> tick is about every second. I have the keep alive circuit wired up to an
>> always hot bus so that the internal battery in the Dynon will stay
>> charged
>> up. I think the noise is from this circuit because I disconnected the
>> connector from the back of the Dynon and the noise stopped and resumed
>> when
>> it was reconnected. Is this ticking noise normal? Could this be the
>> cause
>> of
>> my dead battery? Will a dead battery on the plane drain the internal
>> battery
>> on the Dynon? Will a PC-680 go completely dead if you let the voltage
>> get
>> down to about 10.5 volts (I have not charged the battery in a while)?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jerry Isler
>> RV-4 N455J
>> Donalsonville, GA
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check |
flow at...
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 5/26/05 8:19:04 AM Central Daylight Time,
billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net writes:
> I guess I could always drop back to the push on hose type since this is low
> pressure but I was trying to stay with all solid connections.
>
>>>>>>>>
Hi Bill-
I've been using these (Purolator PRO-806) for about 180 hours now with hose
clamps on 3/8" fuel line. Mounted in wing roots between pickup tubes and al
line to selector valve, then to Facet pump (carbureted engine, but filter is
basically no pressure) Works great so far using autogas and 100LL...
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/manufacturerminorcategory.asp?Universal%20Fuel%20Filters
Bought mine on the aviation aisle at the local Advance Auto Parts, $12.95
each.
Mark Phillips
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: EMAproducts@aol.com
Those of you questioning if an AOA would show inverted flight ~~ We have
developed a system which will show inverted and upright AOA at the request of a
few aerobatic instructors. This system uses many more LED's than our current
system, and shows the AOA either upright or inverted, after all, the vane just
measures the relative wind, what makes the airplane fly.
Currently it is being evaluated on borate bombers to show a "trend" of their
G loads, etc., and how much they can pull and still be safe. Negative has
nothing to do with this evaluation, but is same instrument.
Our standard "RiteAngle IIIb" was designed to conform to FAA design criteria,
electronics, color of LED's accuracy as per FAR's. We are working on an AML
certified version at current time for Beechcraft, Piper, Cessna, Maule, &
Mooney. The exact same RiteAngle is flying on aircraft from Ultralights, RV's
Lancairs from 360 to an IVP Turboprop and all production 16,000 # turboprop work
plane.
Please contact me off list, I prefer not to "advertise" on this builders list.
Elbie
EM Aviation, LLC
Message 8
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| Subject: | Glare shield paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
I was at the point of doing my glare shield on my 7 Tip up and was looking for
options. One day while changing oil in my truck I discovered a can of black BBQ
grill paint in the cabinet. Heck, it is designed to handle extreme heat, is
flat in color and although black, does not retain heat. What else could you ask
for?
I did a test piece of aluminum with normal paint prep. After drying for a day I
tried to chip it off. Didn't work, the paint held firm.
Many RV's that I have seen with fabric or other covering often have bubbling problems.
The BBQ paint looks great and I don't have to worry about redoing later.
Darwin N. Barrie
P19
RV7 wiring!!!
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the |
box
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Hi all,
A word of advice from a builder & completer: Don't buy readily attached stuff for
your project too early as most vendors start warranty as of the date on your
reciept. Moreover, much hi-tech stuff drops in price over time so that by buying
early you pay a premium.
Naturally, there are times when it pays to buy early like when someone offers a
super bargain.
There is a company which makes plastic auto engines for some so that a custom car
builder can use it for fitting to a chassis. These would be great for us but
the volume might be too low. What I will do when I build another is buy a
core. Then, when I need the real thing, sell it. When I built my RV I bought
the engine more than a year early losing the interest income on over $20,000.
Actually, I would have put the money in the stock market and made more like
25% on it. Too bad I didn't take other money out at the time I really needed
the engine as that was about the top of the market.
hal
Message 10
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| Subject: | AOA indicator for $60 (corrected links) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
(CORRECTED LINKS)
Here are some ideas for a homemade AOA, airspeed warning or stall warning, you
can make or by for less than $90:
You can make an AOA for $60 and it will work just like the LRI (Lift reserve indicator)
Sam Buchanan mentions below. The instructions to make it are here and
look very easy to duplicate:
http://www.snyder.on.ca/pages/lri.htm
It shows a nice drawing for making a probe out of a piece of aluminum bar. The
gage is made from an off-the-shelf industrial differential pressure gage. The
2-1/6 dia. gage is mechanical and very sensitive. Specs for 2-5002 gage:
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pressure/Series2-5000Price.cfm
This was off a Sonex Builders Web Site, and yes there are other home built kits
out there. I would imagine the probe could be made from other materials and the
face of the gage can be modified with color-coded lift scale (provided in instructions).
Also there is a version of the LRI, Aircraft Angle of Attack 2.25"
Instrument Kit, on eBay for $325.
Indicated airspeed warning is not AOA. There is a big difference and the uEncoder
does not have AOA info, but does have a low speed airspeed warning. Which certainly
could be of some use at least in wings level 1G flight. You could install
a pressure switch and relay to make a visual and/or aural alarm for low speed.
The aural alarm could be a simple sound effect circuit from and electronic
kit that is connected to the aircrafts radios or intercoms aux input. Cost
could be done for $50 or less. You would have to figure out how to keep it from
going off on the ground. (ideas).
You can buy or make stall tab with a micro switch like factory planes have (less
than $90). These are true AOA sensors but with only one indication, (near) critical
angle of attack.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/redstallwarner.php
You can check out a RV-6a builders site that shows this set up, LOOK left side
bottom and click -Stall warning
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
I think AOA, airspeed and stall warning are all good, but I don't think you need
to spend thousands of dollars. In fact there is another unit called Riteangle,
off the shelf stall warning. Worth a look and lots of installed pictures on
RVs and other experimental aircraft. My RV does not have any of the above and
have flown for over 800 hours without un-intentionally stalling. I have stalled
my RV in all attitudes intentionally up to 3-G loading. That helps develop
a feel for what it does near critical angle of attack. The FAA calls this stall
avoidance or awareness. Of course if you plan on being inattentive to airspeed
control than you need one of the above, but guess no one plans on loosing airspeed
control. RVs fly very slow and have a small range of angle of attack.
Jets have very large range of operational angle of attack and don't have sufficient
natural feel, thus they need artificial stick shakers and AOA indicators.
AOA indicator for a RV is an option, a good one opt
ion, but
it is not necessary to fly safely. Fly airspeed with normal margins (Vso x 1.3)
and you will be OK. In RV aerobatics under load, the buffet is obvious before
stall.
Cheers George
=============================================
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
> posted by: "Ron Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
>
> If you have got to spend $800, I would highly recommend the RMI uEncoder kit.
It has a > stall horn included - along with:
> http://www.rkymtn.com/EncFeatures.htm
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>> posted by: Sam Buchanan<sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>>
>> I have no interest in resurrecting the old debate about which AOA system is
"best", but >> for new listers who may be researching angle of attack systems,
here is an article about >> my installation of the Lift Reserve
>>
>> Indicator:http://thervjournal.com/liftreserve.htm
>>
>> After flying the LRI for several years, I consider it a valuable part of the
panel.
---------------------------------
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the |
box
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net>
When I built my RV I bought the engine more than a year early losing the
interest income on over $20,000. Actually, I would have put the money in
the stock market and made more like 25% on it.
==================================
Can't beat the info you get from this List.
PRICELESS. <g>
Do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Good question, Lucky! I just blindly accepted what Cee Bailey Plastics said.
I tried just now looking up "react acrylic vinyl" on Google and was overwhelmed
with chemical jibberish. I have a friend who is a PhD Chemist - mainly food
chemistry. I'll ask him when I next see him.
Didn't someone caution against other materials reacting badly with acrylic? Aren't
some of the sticky resins we glue on canopy fairings bad to use? Doesn't
it seem like anything can react with anything to some extent? Maybe you didn't
know this either, water will dissolve glass. It takes quite a long time,
of course.
Maybe someone will write to Plexiglass Inc or whatever their name is.
hal
lucky <luckymacy@comcast.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
vinyl is going to cause acrylic to break? I've never heard that one before. Where
can one read up on a test that proves that?
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne
>
>
> Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
> that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
> windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
>
> I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know
> quite why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
> act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
> prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel
> will have a crash strip of some sort.
>
> hal
>
> RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
>
>
>
>
>
>
vinyl is going to cause acrylic to break? I've never heard that one before. Where
can one read up on a test that proves that?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne
Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know
quite why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel
will have a crash strip of some sort.
hal
RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
====================================================
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from |
the box
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
When to buy the engine is something I've been thinking about a little
lately. I know you need it (or a core) fairly quickly on a full QB kit.
Buying a core then selling it later sounds like a good idea, but even
that's $5K or so (320).
Most engine builders will delay the warranty 3-6 months but then you
have the preservation issues. If you're going to buy an engine when you
need it to do the FWF I suppose it will be absolutely mandatory that you
pickle it unless you are a very fast builder. I would guess that most
see 6-12 months or more from the time they hang the engine to first flight?
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>A word of advice from a builder & completer: Don't buy readily attached stuff
for your project too early as most vendors start warranty as of the date on your
reciept. Moreover, much hi-tech stuff drops in price over time so that by
buying early you pay a premium.
>
>Naturally, there are times when it pays to buy early like when someone offers
a super bargain.
>
>There is a company which makes plastic auto engines for some so that a custom
car builder can use it for fitting to a chassis. These would be great for us
but the volume might be too low. What I will do when I build another is buy a
core. Then, when I need the real thing, sell it. When I built my RV I bought
the engine more than a year early losing the interest income on over $20,000.
Actually, I would have put the money in the stock market and made more like
25% on it. Too bad I didn't take other money out at the time I really needed
the engine as that was about the top of the market.
>
>hal
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check |
flow at...
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Mark,
Do you often find any crud in the filter?
Mickey
> I've been using these (Purolator PRO-806) for about 180 hours now with hose
> clamps on 3/8" fuel line. Mounted in wing roots between pickup tubes and al
> line to selector valve, then to Facet pump (carbureted engine, but filter is
> basically no pressure) Works great so far using autogas and 100LL...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 15
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| Subject: | RV-8a site updated |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
Hi everyone,
I just thought I would let everyone know that I have healed enough from my RV inflicted
spider bite to finally update the site.
Cheers,
Stephanie Marshall
www.rv-8a.4t.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
NOTHING WRONG WITH AN AOA INDICATOR, BUT,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
LETS NOT OVERSTATE THE VALUE OF THE AOA FOR A LITTLE AIRPLANE.
COMPARISONS TO JETS ARE NOT REALLY VALID; JETS NEED IT.
LANDING (FLARE) IS NOT THE IDEAL USE FOR AN AOA INDICATOR.
AEROBATICS CAN BE DONE SAFELY WITHOUT AN AOA.
WHEN DO YOU FLY SLOW = APPROACH&LANDING.
YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING OUT THE CANOPY AND CROSS CHECKING AIRSPEED.
I DON'T STARE AT THE AIRSPEED INDICATOR OR EVEN AN AOA IF I HAD IT WHEN LANDING
OR DOING AEROBATICS.
DO LOTS OF PRACTICE: POWER ON STALL, POWER OFF STALL, ACCELERATED STALLS and SLOW
FLIGHT
LEARN WHAT YOUR PLANE FEELS LIKE AND MAKE YOUR BUTT AN AOA.
RV's HAVE A FAIRLY GOOD INDICATION OF PRE-STALL IF YOU KNOW WHAT IT FEELS LIKE.
GADGETS WILL NEVER REPLACE AIRMANSHIP.
>Bob
>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No big
deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
THE AIRPLANE DOES NOT CARE IF IT STALLS UPSIDE DOWN OR NOT
IF YOU BUFFET INVERTED YOU RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, BUFFET STOPS
WHEN I DEMO AEROBATICS ON THE TOP OF A LOOP, PULL=BUFFET, RELEASE=FLY
DON'T NEED AN AOA TO DO AEROBATICS
RIGHT, A BUFFET OR STALL INVERTERTED IS NO BIG DEAL
SHOULD YOU BE LOOKING OUT THE CANOPY DOING AEROBATICS
>John:
>We have AOA in HRII N561FS. We installed the indicator on the upper right of
>the panel. As we found out later Gummibear looks out the left side of the
>Rocket during final & in flare.
IF YOU NEED AN AOA TO LAND, WELL.......KABONG,
NICE TO HAVE BUT I AM SURE YOU CAN MAKE THOSE SQUEAKERS WITHOUT IT :- )
>Wally
>I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
>and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of my -4 if
>I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said hands
>down, an AOA.
YES AIRLINERS HAVE AOA VANES,
JETS HAVE LITTLE OR NO NATURAL CONTROL FEEL,
AOA AND FEEL COMPUTERS GIVE THE FEEDBACK ON JETS,
AOA INPUT GOES DIRECT TO STALL COMPUTER/STICKSHAKER,
A RV IS NOT A SWEPT WING, HIGH WING-LOADED, LARGE JET-LINER,
AIRLINERS SO NOT HAVE AOA DIRECTLY VISIBLE TO PILOT ON B737/737/767/747,
BOEING JETS, W/ FLAPS OUT, SHOW VISUAL PITCH MARK ESTIMATED PITCH FOR AT STALL
ON THE PFD (PRIMARY FLT DISPLAY). NICE TO HAVE BUT WE DON'T STALL JETS UNLESS
IN THE SIMULATOR
>JOHN:
>AOA is not just a stall warning devise. The "normal" stall warning goes off when
it's almost >too late.
EVEN THE LOWLY CESSNA STALL WARNING WILL COME ON BEFORE STALL
AS A CFI I HAVE FLOWN ON THE STALL HORN AND BELOW MANY TIMES.
THOSE STALL WARNING TABS ARE AOA INDICATORS; THEY DO WORK.
THE AOA IS A NICE THING TO HAVE, BUT FLY THE AIRSPEED ADJUSTED FOR:
AIRCRAFT WEIGHT, LOAD FACTOR AND WING-GUST.
REMEMBER:
45 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 20%
60 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 40%
RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 51 (SOLO)
RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 58 (GROSS)
FLY INITIAL PATTERN AT APRROX 80-85MPH (MOST COND)
IF YOU BUFFET, RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, ADD PWR, LEVEL WINGS
CHEERS GEORGE
---------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
http://rv7-a.com/stopit.gif
LOL :)
On 05/26 11:59, gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
> NOTHING WRONG WITH AN AOA INDICATOR, BUT,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>
>
> LETS NOT OVERSTATE THE VALUE OF THE AOA FOR A LITTLE AIRPLANE.
>
> COMPARISONS TO JETS ARE NOT REALLY VALID; JETS NEED IT.
>
> LANDING (FLARE) IS NOT THE IDEAL USE FOR AN AOA INDICATOR.
>
> AEROBATICS CAN BE DONE SAFELY WITHOUT AN AOA.
>
>
> WHEN DO YOU FLY SLOW = APPROACH&LANDING.
>
> YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING OUT THE CANOPY AND CROSS CHECKING AIRSPEED.
>
>
> I DON'T STARE AT THE AIRSPEED INDICATOR OR EVEN AN AOA IF I HAD IT WHEN LANDING
OR DOING AEROBATICS.
>
>
> DO LOTS OF PRACTICE: POWER ON STALL, POWER OFF STALL, ACCELERATED STALLS and
SLOW FLIGHT
>
>
> LEARN WHAT YOUR PLANE FEELS LIKE AND MAKE YOUR BUTT AN AOA.
>
>
> RV's HAVE A FAIRLY GOOD INDICATION OF PRE-STALL IF YOU KNOW WHAT IT FEELS LIKE.
>
>
> GADGETS WILL NEVER REPLACE AIRMANSHIP.
>
>
> >Bob
> >I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No
big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
>
>
> YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
>
> THE AIRPLANE DOES NOT CARE IF IT STALLS UPSIDE DOWN OR NOT
>
> IF YOU BUFFET INVERTED YOU RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, BUFFET STOPS
>
> WHEN I DEMO AEROBATICS ON THE TOP OF A LOOP, PULL=BUFFET, RELEASE=FLY
>
>
> DON'T NEED AN AOA TO DO AEROBATICS
>
> RIGHT, A BUFFET OR STALL INVERTERTED IS NO BIG DEAL
>
> SHOULD YOU BE LOOKING OUT THE CANOPY DOING AEROBATICS
>
>
> >John:
> >We have AOA in HRII N561FS. We installed the indicator on the upper right of
> >the panel. As we found out later Gummibear looks out the left side of the
> >Rocket during final & in flare.
>
>
> IF YOU NEED AN AOA TO LAND, WELL.......KABONG,
>
> NICE TO HAVE BUT I AM SURE YOU CAN MAKE THOSE SQUEAKERS WITHOUT IT :- )
>
>
> >Wally
> >I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
> >and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of my -4
if
> >I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said hands
> >down, an AOA.
>
>
> YES AIRLINERS HAVE AOA VANES,
>
> JETS HAVE LITTLE OR NO NATURAL CONTROL FEEL,
>
> AOA AND FEEL COMPUTERS GIVE THE FEEDBACK ON JETS,
>
> AOA INPUT GOES DIRECT TO STALL COMPUTER/STICKSHAKER,
>
> A RV IS NOT A SWEPT WING, HIGH WING-LOADED, LARGE JET-LINER,
>
> AIRLINERS SO NOT HAVE AOA DIRECTLY VISIBLE TO PILOT ON B737/737/767/747,
>
>
> BOEING JETS, W/ FLAPS OUT, SHOW VISUAL PITCH MARK ESTIMATED PITCH FOR AT STALL
ON THE PFD (PRIMARY FLT DISPLAY). NICE TO HAVE BUT WE DON'T STALL JETS UNLESS
IN THE SIMULATOR
>
>
> >JOHN:
>
> >AOA is not just a stall warning devise. The "normal" stall warning goes off
when it's almost >too late.
>
>
> EVEN THE LOWLY CESSNA STALL WARNING WILL COME ON BEFORE STALL
>
> AS A CFI I HAVE FLOWN ON THE STALL HORN AND BELOW MANY TIMES.
>
> THOSE STALL WARNING TABS ARE AOA INDICATORS; THEY DO WORK.
>
>
> THE AOA IS A NICE THING TO HAVE, BUT FLY THE AIRSPEED ADJUSTED FOR:
>
> AIRCRAFT WEIGHT, LOAD FACTOR AND WING-GUST.
>
>
> REMEMBER:
>
> 45 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 20%
>
> 60 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 40%
>
> RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 51 (SOLO)
>
> RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 58 (GROSS)
>
> FLY INITIAL PATTERN AT APRROX 80-85MPH (MOST COND)
>
> IF YOU BUFFET, RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, ADD PWR, LEVEL WINGS
>
>
> CHEERS GEORGE
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the |
box
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 10:24:14 2005-05-26 Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> A word of advice from a builder & completer: Don't buy readily
> attached stuff for your project too early as most vendors start
> warranty as of the date on your reciept. Moreover, much hi-tech stuff
> drops in price over time so that by buying early you pay a premium.
This is actually good advice for a lot of parts of the project, actually.
Don't drill holes until you absolutely have to, don't prime anything until
you absolutely have to (less important, I guess), and for heaven's sake
don't rivet anything together until you absolutely have to. Personally, I
define the "have to" point in one of two ways:
1. the point at which I need to do that step before I can progress to
another (ie. drill hole before putting in a rivet), or
2. the point at which moving on would make doing the step impossible later
(ie. prime before closing a cavity).
And today's crop of instrument options is really tempting, but I know there
are always better things around the corner. So no buying instruments until
I need to cut the holes in the panel. At the rate things are improving, by
the time I need them I should be able to get my entire instrument panel,
including radios, gps, avionics, and engine instruments, in one 3" round
instrument.
Of course, i'll need a magnifying glass for it, but it'll be light... and
hey, look at the size of that glovebox! :)
-Rob
Do Not Archive
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Just a few "clearing" turns. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: AOA indicator?
> --> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>>John:
>>We have AOA in HRII N561FS. We installed the indicator on the upper right
>>of
>>the panel. As we found out later Gummibear looks out the left side of the
>>Rocket during final & in flare.
>
>
> IF YOU NEED AN AOA TO LAND, WELL.......KABONG,
AOA is not REQUIRED, NEEDED or used to land neither are VASI lights, airport
curent advisories, or pilot reports but these are just a few good backup
systems.
>
> NICE TO HAVE BUT I AM SURE YOU CAN MAKE THOSE SQUEAKERS WITHOUT IT :- )
>
>
>>Wally
>>I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
>>and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of
>>my -4 if
>>I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said
>>hands
>>down, an AOA.
Ya'll missed out on the question. It was about passing an inspection W/O an
airspeed indicator & the keywords "Back seat of my -4" options were AOA or
A/S. Hope it never happens but IF my front seater is incapasitated. I would
land N561FS from the backseat. Hopfully I'd find a very long wide runway,
trim for landing using EVERYTHING (including AOA) available & get all three
of us down in one piece.
>>JOHN:
>
>>AOA is not just a stall warning devise. The "normal" stall warning goes
>>off when it's almost >too late.
I said "almost"
> THOSE STALL WARNING TABS ARE AOA INDICATORS; THEY DO WORK.
> THE AOA IS A NICE THING TO HAVE, BUT FLY THE AIRSPEED ADJUSTED FOR:
> AIRCRAFT WEIGHT, LOAD FACTOR AND WING-GUST.
Of course BUT our AOA is : Air adjustable, includes several flight
conditions (such as all three listed above) as opposed to just ONE.
Indicates without mental calulating for a 37.5 or a 77.7 banks.
> REMEMBER:
>
> 45 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 20%
>
> 60 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 40%
>
> RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 51 (SOLO)
>
> RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 58 (GROSS)
>
> FLY INITIAL PATTERN AT APRROX 80-85MPH (MOST COND)
>
> IF YOU BUFFET, RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, ADD PWR, LEVEL WINGS
I think I used these very terms in my post regarding what to do in a stalled
condition while inverted at the top of a loop. Of course getting upright is
a secondary consideration, fly the airplane is first regardless of any
"unusual attitude". My instructor, CFI, had me under the hood, several
twists and turns & gives the Cessna 150 back to me with power at idle, 10
degrees beyond 90 degree vertical, turning & falling off on one wing and
ready to go on its back. AND this was my first "recovery from unusual
attitude" lesson. Made a very good recovery. Then he took way the hood & we
did it again. Scared the crap out of me the first time. But that was way
back in '64. PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted
>stalls. No big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
>
>YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
>THE AIRPLANE DOES NOT CARE IF IT STALLS UPSIDE DOWN OR NOT
>IF YOU BUFFET INVERTED YOU RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, BUFFET STOPS
>WHEN I DEMO AEROBATICS ON THE TOP OF A LOOP, PULL=BUFFET, RELEASE=FLY
>
>DON'T NEED AN AOA TO DO AEROBATICS
I am not sure what you point is. But I agree, you do not need an AOA to do
aerobatics, you also do not need a transponder, ELT, ASI, altimeter,
compass, radio or even an engine, but I bet you have all that stuff when
you fly aerobatics. I have flown aerobatics in a hang glider with out all
the gadets, just me, the hang glider (minus flight instruments) and my
harness w/parachute.
As far as buffet while inverted, there is no back pressure in my RV while
inverted, I use forward pressure to hold the RV in level inverted flight,
therefore to reduce stall, I release forward pressure or increase back
pressure. At the top of the loop when I am floating the aircraft over the
top, my stalls occur when I do not maintain sufficient back pressure or to
much forward pressure.
As for the comment that during aerobatics you should be looking out the
window, I agree and disagree. First of all at 5000 feet AGL, I am not
going to hit anything or anyone (if I did my clearing turns and I am in the
aerobatic practice area). Second, looking outside is for ground reference
to insure the aircraft attitude is where it should be. But, especially in
the RV, you must watch the airspeed indicator to insure that the maneuver
you are doing will not take you beyond the limits of the aircraft. I know
enough to know that if I pull into a split S at 160KTS, I am in deep
trouble. I do my split S below 100KTS. How do I know? I look at the ASI
before I do it! Same goes for the reverse cuban eight.
One might say, that I can learn my RVs speeds by sight, sound and
feel. Yes to some degree. I do know my RV and I have actually done a
landing without the ASI at night and made the 1000 foot turn off at my
airport (one of the best landings I have ever made). Do I do that every
flight? No! On that flight, I had an electrical problem with the
electronic ASI and it went black! I have proven that I do not need the
ASI, But, I use the ASI often while flying in all phases of flight to
include aerobatics and I would not take off if it did not work.
Since no one on the list has seen me do a loop, let us not get into a
technical debate on how I do one. However, I am looking for an aerobatic
coach, if you qualify, I would be interested in hiring you.
As for the purpose or need for an AOA, unless the FAA tells me different,
it is my airplane and I will decide if it needs one or not!
I am not a big fan of the AOA, I do not have one and have never used
one. But, if an RV builder wants one in his aircraft, who am I to say
otherwise?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls.
>>No big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
> YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
>
George,
You are not correct, in an "inverted stall," or negative angle of attack
stall, you would "pull" back on the stick. If it was a "stall while
inverted" you would release the back pressure or push.
This list does not constitute aerobatic training. The potential for
misunderstanding/miscommunication, given the wide range of experience, in
this venue is HUGE. When these discussions get into the far reaches of RV
flying, everyone should have their salt shaker handy.
I am all for AOA! BUT an AOA indicator not what you need to get out of an
upright or inverted spin. What is required is aerobatic training.
Those who say that the AOA will keep you out of the spin, are correct in
normal flying. Aerobatic flying is a different animal, you are often
moving angle of attack so quickly that the AOA is of little value. It will
help tighten up a loop or a turn, but in acro, you will often have no
indicated airspeed and all AOA devices require airspeed to function.
Again I refer to the hammerhead example in my previous post. The AOA would
be at zero on the vertical line, then at near zero airspeed, whatever
indication it would might have would be useless. These are all "head
outside" maneuvers. You do not judge the kick in a hammerhead by looking at
the ASI. You do it by looking outside, and the noise and feel of the
airplane. On a "real aerobatic" airplane, a piece of yarn hanging on the
outside attitude indicator (the one attached to the wing tip that looks like
an antenna) will tell you when you have stopped forward motion.
I have said before, and I will be redundant. RV's are lousy aerobatic
airplanes that happen to do great acro. RV's are horrible aerobatic
trainers. With regard to acro, nothing you put in your panel will replace
dual instruction.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
>The most common way to inadvertantly do an "inverted stall" is in a
>hammerhead. The nose gets past vertical, so you push forward, then kick
>rudder with some outside aileron, and Viola, Inverted stall, quickly
>followed by an inverted spin.
A very good point, and thanks for reminding me. I have done many
hammerheads but I have not done the inverted stall with the inverted spin
from one yet, but...
Has anyone on the list actually done an inverted spin in an RV?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>Bob
>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No
big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
THE AIRPLANE DOES NOT CARE IF IT STALLS UPSIDE DOWN OR NOT
IF YOU BUFFET INVERTED YOU RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, BUFFET STOPS
No, I beleive he means pull back to break an inverted stall.. re-read his post
about neg-G stalls.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check |
flow at...
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 05/26/2005 1:50:08 PM Central Standard Time,
mick-matronics@rv8.ch writes:
Do you often find any crud in the filter?
>>>>
Not really- just some small particles that look like flecks of pro-seal- Will
probably replace them at 200 hour inspection. I wanted the see-thrus
originally to see how much stuff was actually coming out of the tank (no gascolator),
but it's been very minimal- never cleaned 'em and never seen any water in 'em
neither. Even though they've never leaked I'll likely replace with sealed
metal-cased filters and change every 2-300 hrs or so from then on.
I also have screens on the tank pickup tubes and will reverse-flow them to
flush 'em at the same time to see what if anything has collected there...
Mark
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Jerry Isler wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler"
> tick is about every second. I have the keep alive circuit wired up to an
> always hot bus so that the internal battery in the Dynon will stay charged
> up. I think the noise is from this circuit because I disconnected the
> connector from the back of the Dynon and the noise stopped and resumed when
> it was reconnected. Is this ticking noise normal? Could this be the cause of
> my dead battery? Will a dead battery on the plane drain the internal battery
> on the Dynon? Will a PC-680 go completely dead if you let the voltage get
> down to about 10.5 volts (I have not charged the battery in a while)?
I don't know about any ticking, however I did notice some
odd behavior of the Dynon before I was flying.
My primary power is switched from the avionics bus. The
secondary power is always hot on an aux battery, as well
as the keepalive power.
When the batteries fell to about 10V, the Dynon would go into
a cycle of powering up, then immediately beginning its 20 sec
countdown and shutoff.
I suspect this is some kind of threshold where the unit is
sensing a logical edge in the battery power and deciding
to power up and down based on that - similar to the way it
powers up and down when the primary power is applied or removed.
Fortunately, I was in the hangar when I noticed this, so I
pulled the Aux circuit breaker and stopped the cycling before
it killed the battery altogether.
Now that I am flying (and thus charging the batteries) regularly,
I have not noticed any unusual drains on the batteries, even after
a couple of weeks of sitting.
- Tim.
http://rv9a.deru.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | IO-360 crank gear |
--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
Hi
I need to have a crankshaft gear modified per SB475C.
this means cutting 3 bigger scallops and undercutting part of the gear back.
Can anybody recommend an outfit who can modify this gear per Lycoming
SB475C
Thanks
Gert
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Message 27
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| Subject: | Inverted Flight Belts (was AOA Indicator) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
With all the discussion about inverted flight, I am curious. Have any of you installed
a redundant seat belt in your RV's? If so, what did you use for mounting
points? I didn't see anything in a quick archive search.
I haven't done any sustained inverted flight in my RV-4 yet, but I'm interested
in doing so and would like the security of the extra belt.
Ted
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>
>
>
>>RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls.
>>>No big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
>>>
>>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
>>
>>
>>
>
>George,
>
>You are not correct, in an "inverted stall," or negative angle of attack
>stall, you would "pull" back on the stick. If it was a "stall while
>inverted" you would release the back pressure or push.
>
>This list does not constitute aerobatic training. The potential for
>misunderstanding/miscommunication, given the wide range of experience, in
>this venue is HUGE. When these discussions get into the far reaches of RV
>flying, everyone should have their salt shaker handy.
>
>I am all for AOA! BUT an AOA indicator not what you need to get out of an
>upright or inverted spin. What is required is aerobatic training.
>
>Those who say that the AOA will keep you out of the spin, are correct in
>normal flying. Aerobatic flying is a different animal, you are often
>moving angle of attack so quickly that the AOA is of little value. It will
>help tighten up a loop or a turn, but in acro, you will often have no
>indicated airspeed and all AOA devices require airspeed to function.
>
>Again I refer to the hammerhead example in my previous post. The AOA would
>be at zero on the vertical line, then at near zero airspeed, whatever
>indication it would might have would be useless. These are all "head
>outside" maneuvers. You do not judge the kick in a hammerhead by looking at
>the ASI. You do it by looking outside, and the noise and feel of the
>airplane. On a "real aerobatic" airplane, a piece of yarn hanging on the
>outside attitude indicator (the one attached to the wing tip that looks like
>an antenna) will tell you when you have stopped forward motion.
>
>I have said before, and I will be redundant. RV's are lousy aerobatic
>airplanes that happen to do great acro. RV's are horrible aerobatic
>trainers. With regard to acro, nothing you put in your panel will replace
>dual instruction.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
I agree, Phil in Litchfield, IL
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Engine Hose Fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
I am trying to decide which hose fittings I need for my Oil and Fuel lines.
I have steel adapter fittings (pipe to AN) in the engine, cooler and fuel
pump. Should the hose ends also be steel, or will Aluminum suffice on the
hose? The steel fittings get expensive quick so if you know of a good low
end source, I could be interested.
Marty in Brentwood TN
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