Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:40 AM - AoA indicator - try a different angle!! (John Kent)
2. 04:38 AM - Insurance rates for RV's (Dean Pichon)
3. 06:11 AM - Re: Insurance rates for RV's (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
4. 06:48 AM - Re: Insurance rates for RV's (Paul Folbrecht)
5. 07:05 AM - Re: Insurance rates for RV's (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 07:23 AM - Re: Insurance rates for RV's (Bob 1)
7. 07:24 AM - Re: Insurance rates for RV's (linn walters)
8. 07:40 AM - Re: Insurance rates for RV's (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
9. 07:45 AM - Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check flow at low pressure ? (DAVID REEL)
10. 08:04 AM - Re: Insurance rates for RV's (Kevin Williams)
11. 08:13 AM - Rudder pedals (Wheeler North)
12. 08:20 AM - Re: AoA indicator - try a different angle!! (Dan Checkoway)
13. 08:24 AM - Re: Insurance rates for RV's (Dan Checkoway)
14. 08:49 AM - Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the box (Hal Kempthorne)
15. 09:31 AM - Re: Insurance rates for RV's (Jeff Point)
16. 09:33 AM - AOA Indicator (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
17. 09:45 AM - RV Insurance Rates (John)
18. 05:28 PM - Re: RV4 Brakes (Dean Pichon)
19. 06:04 PM - FAB (Bob C.)
20. 07:26 PM - Re: FAB (LarryRobertHelming)
21. 08:25 PM - Re: FAB (Dick DeCramer)
22. 08:50 PM - Wing/Horizontal Stab incidence (Jeff Orear)
Message 1
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| Subject: | AoA indicator - try a different angle!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Kent" <jakent@unison.ie>
Here is a simple (and cheap-ish) idea.
How about getting one of those Ray Allen (MAC) position sensors ($34) hooked
to a small vane positioned in the relative airflow. Maybe in the fuselage
side, vertical stabilizer, wing-tip, or where-ever -- the hardware and
wires required are very light.
Then use one of the Ray Allen LED indicators ($70) (it might be even better
if some of the green LEDs could be changed for red/amber), positioned in
your eye-line on the panel, and voila! - a non-Proprietary,
Professional-looking, Bacon-saving, Lift Reserve device for just over $100
with money left in the bank!
Cheers . John Kent (EI-DIY RV-4)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Hi All,
I just received a call from Nation Air with two annual premium quotes for my
RV-4. As many are already aware, the carrier Nation Air had been using for
our RV policies has elected not to renew any of those policies. The new
carriers are AIG and EAA. My AIG quote is $1465 and the EAA quote is $1470.
This is based on $60,000 hull value and the pilot (me) with about 900TT
and 250 hours in the RV. Last year I paid $1270. Have anyone else found
better options?
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
OUR RV7 RENEWAL IN APRIL WENT FROM $1801 TO $2175 FOR $100K HULL. MY PARTNER
IS LOW TIME WITH 3000 HRS. IT JUST CONTINUES TO GET WORSE. HOW ABOUT SOME
FEEDBACK FROM U GUYS WITH 10'S. I HATE TO EVEN ASK ABOUT THEM......
REGARDS,
DOUG PRESTON
BHM
RV7 FLYING
RV7A HOPEFULLY THIS FALL
RV10 TAIL
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
The quote I got from NationAir on a 10 (I had been planning on building a 10)
was the same as a 9 for the same hull value. Of course, a 10 is typically
going to have a higher hull value.
Ken Scott at Van's told me that he does not insure his hull, except non-moving
insurance (hangar collapse, etc.) Got me thinking. You'll save a lot of money
over 10-15 years doing that. I don't know that I could be that gutsy, though.
~Paul
P.S. 3000 hours is "low-time"?!? :->
--- DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
>
> OUR RV7 RENEWAL IN APRIL WENT FROM $1801 TO $2175 FOR $100K HULL. MY PARTNER
>
> IS LOW TIME WITH 3000 HRS. IT JUST CONTINUES TO GET WORSE. HOW ABOUT SOME
> FEEDBACK FROM U GUYS WITH 10'S. I HATE TO EVEN ASK ABOUT THEM......
> REGARDS,
> DOUG PRESTON
> BHM
> RV7 FLYING
> RV7A HOPEFULLY THIS FALL
> RV10 TAIL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I'm still in a state of denial and refuse to look closely at rates until I get
within 6 months of flying. ;-)
Michael Sausen
-10 #40352
Elevators
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance rates for RV's
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
OUR RV7 RENEWAL IN APRIL WENT FROM $1801 TO $2175 FOR $100K HULL. MY PARTNER IS
LOW TIME WITH 3000 HRS. IT JUST CONTINUES TO GET WORSE. HOW ABOUT SOME FEEDBACK
FROM U GUYS WITH 10'S. I HATE TO EVEN ASK ABOUT THEM......
REGARDS,
DOUG PRESTON
BHM
RV7 FLYING
RV7A HOPEFULLY THIS FALL
RV10 TAIL
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net>
The new
carriers are AIG and EAA. My AIG quote is $1465 and the EAA quote is $1470.
This is based on $60,000 hull value and the pilot (me) with about 900TT
and 250 hours in the RV. Last year I paid $1270. Have anyone else found
better options?
-----------------------------------------
I'm a high time tailwheel Commercial pilot with most ratings and over 500
hours in my RV-3.
However, this matters not to the darlings of Avemco.
A month ago, they would not offer hull coverage for RV-3's at any price.
And the quote for RV-3 liability alone was close to what I paid for $31,000
full coverage from Phoenix.
AIG through AOPA has offered me the best full coverage rate to date and it's
nearly 40% more than last year.
Sooo, same question....
Is there anything better out there in Insurance Land?
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
>The quote I got from NationAir on a 10 (I had been planning on building a 10)
>was the same as a 9 for the same hull value. Of course, a 10 is typically
>going to have a higher hull value.
>
>Ken Scott at Van's told me that he does not insure his hull, except non-moving
>insurance (hangar collapse, etc.) Got me thinking. You'll save a lot of money
>over 10-15 years doing that. I don't know that I could be that gutsy, though.
>
>~Paul
>
As a case in point .... when I built my Pitts, I had hull for the first
year. After that, I figured that If I was going to hurt it, I'd have
done so 'learning' in that first year. Hull (25K, if I recall
correctly) was an extra $1000. That was pricey for me in 1981. I
cancelled the hull and only had liability after the first year. The
reason I had liability was that it's required by the hangar owner as
part of my lease. Thirteen years later I did a 1/2 outside loop on a
landing. Curtis Pitts said I never learned to land it, and explained
the error of my ways. For a single place or a tandem where you can't
see over the nose, look straight ahead and let your peripheral vision
guide you. I learned to look out the left side. The top wing was
destroyed, and took about $2000 to fix. Somewhere in that great bank in
the sky was $12K for the repairs. When the prop flange failed and the
prop left me hanging (literally) and dropped into the ocean, giving me
my Pitts Glider rating, there was more money in the bank It was probably
up to $17K, and the cost for a new prop and my rebuild of the engine
came to about $7K. We're a few years beyond that so the bank account is
up near $13K, Using the original 1981 $1000. Inflation will raise that
significantly. I do not insure any of my (3) airplanes for hull. I
gambled and won, and when my -10 flies, it'll probably not have hull
either. If I lose one of my airplanes to some unforeseen problem, I
will lose some value determined by the open market. Selling the pieces
parts will bring more that the airplane as a whole ..... that's the way
it is ..... if I have to. And, I'll start over and order another kit
because I'm addicted to building and flying.
Linn
do not archive
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
In a message dated 5/27/2005 8:56:05 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com writes:
P.S. 3000 hours is "low-time"?!? :->
IT IS ALL RELATIVE. I AM IN MY 41ST YEAR OF FLYING CORPORATE. HE IS THE LOW
TIMER AS FAR AS OUR INSURANCE.
REGARDS,
DOUG
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check |
flow at low pressure ?
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
The Purolator PRO 806 fuel filters some are talking about using have a replacable
filter element held in place with a nut. This nut can back off and block the
fuel flow unless the filter is disassembled, the central shaft drilled, and
a cotter pin installed to prevent the nut from backing off due to vibration.
Otherwise, the filter seems well suited to the carburetted Lycoming.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Some good points noted.
I too am a strong believer in liability only and banking whatever cash you
would pay in hull insurance. I would possibly consider hull for the first
year but after that go liability only. My stance is if I crack up the
plane; 1) I can fix it. 2) I can sell it for parts or 3) it's a total write
off and chaces are I'm dead so. . .
Kev
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance rates for RV's
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
>The quote I got from NationAir on a 10 (I had been planning on building a
10)
>was the same as a 9 for the same hull value. Of course, a 10 is typically
>going to have a higher hull value.
>
>Ken Scott at Van's told me that he does not insure his hull, except
non-moving
>insurance (hangar collapse, etc.) Got me thinking. You'll save a lot of
money
>over 10-15 years doing that. I don't know that I could be that gutsy,
though.
>
>~Paul
>
As a case in point .... when I built my Pitts, I had hull for the first
year. After that, I figured that If I was going to hurt it, I'd have
done so 'learning' in that first year. Hull (25K, if I recall
correctly) was an extra $1000. That was pricey for me in 1981. I
cancelled the hull and only had liability after the first year. The
reason I had liability was that it's required by the hangar owner as
part of my lease. Thirteen years later I did a 1/2 outside loop on a
landing. Curtis Pitts said I never learned to land it, and explained
the error of my ways. For a single place or a tandem where you can't
see over the nose, look straight ahead and let your peripheral vision
guide you. I learned to look out the left side. The top wing was
destroyed, and took about $2000 to fix. Somewhere in that great bank in
the sky was $12K for the repairs. When the prop flange failed and the
prop left me hanging (literally) and dropped into the ocean, giving me
my Pitts Glider rating, there was more money in the bank It was probably
up to $17K, and the cost for a new prop and my rebuild of the engine
came to about $7K. We're a few years beyond that so the bank account is
up near $13K, Using the original 1981 $1000. Inflation will raise that
significantly. I do not insure any of my (3) airplanes for hull. I
gambled and won, and when my -10 flies, it'll probably not have hull
either. If I lose one of my airplanes to some unforeseen problem, I
will lose some value determined by the open market. Selling the pieces
parts will bring more that the airplane as a whole ..... that's the way
it is ..... if I have to. And, I'll start over and order another kit
because I'm addicted to building and flying.
Linn
do not archive
--
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Hi All,
Last week I started my RV4 for the first time and found a brake problem. The
brakes are applied when the rudder petals are moved left or right. I first
thought it was my big feet but today while pulling it back in the hangar
with my new Bogart Aviation towbar I found the brakes are applied with a
small movement of the rudder. Anyone had this problem? Anyone with a
suggestion?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
Bruce,
there should be some stuff in the archives about this. All 6's with the over
hang pedals, and the 8's seem to have this problem, IE angle of pedal when
deflected causes toe to activate the brakes. First I've heard of it on a 4,
but if the plane stops rocking when you deflect the rudder it ought to be
corrected.
I know of several incidents, nose overs or failed nose gear related to it,
but most just deny the problem exists.
Fix is to make something on the lower portion of the pedal below the pedal
pivot for brake action, that extends aftwards enough for your foot ball to
ride on it so that in max deflection your toes won't rock the pedal.
I used a half tube of 2" alum tube attached to the bottom of the pedal. Many
others at my airport have copied this and prefer the feel of the pedal as
well.
W
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: AoA indicator - try a different angle!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
John,
It's my belief that while the linear position sensor is fairly smooth (I use
one for flap position sensing in my plane), there's still way too much
friction for it to work as an AOA sensor. Neat idea, though.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvrproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kent" <jakent@unison.ie>
Subject: RV-List: AoA indicator - try a different angle!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Kent" <jakent@unison.ie>
>
> Here is a simple (and cheap-ish) idea.
>
> How about getting one of those Ray Allen (MAC) position sensors ($34)
hooked
> to a small vane positioned in the relative airflow. Maybe in the fuselage
> side, vertical stabilizer, wing-tip, or where-ever -- the hardware and
> wires required are very light.
>
> Then use one of the Ray Allen LED indicators ($70) (it might be even
better
> if some of the green LEDs could be changed for red/amber), positioned in
> your eye-line on the panel, and voila! - a non-Proprietary,
> Professional-looking, Bacon-saving, Lift Reserve device for just over $100
> with money left in the bank!
>
> Cheers . John Kent (EI-DIY RV-4)
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
My premium went down slightly this year, despite an increase in hull value
and despite the jump ship from Phoenix to AIG. Time in type does seem to
have an effect, despite the poor "return on investment" (spending tons of
money flying versus spending a little more on insurance).
http://www.rvproject.com/insurance.html
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance rates for RV's
> --> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
>
> OUR RV7 RENEWAL IN APRIL WENT FROM $1801 TO $2175 FOR $100K HULL. MY
PARTNER
> IS LOW TIME WITH 3000 HRS. IT JUST CONTINUES TO GET WORSE. HOW ABOUT SOME
> FEEDBACK FROM U GUYS WITH 10'S. I HATE TO EVEN ASK ABOUT THEM......
> REGARDS,
> DOUG PRESTON
> BHM
> RV7 FLYING
> RV7A HOPEFULLY THIS FALL
> RV10 TAIL
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the |
box
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
Buying a core then selling it later sounds like a good idea, but even
that's $5K or so (320).
but it is only a loan - even if you buy the core for $5K and sell for $4K you will
probably be ahead
Most engine builders will delay the warranty 3-6 months but then you
wind up taking much longer to complete the bird? Manys the slip twixt cup and
lip.
hal
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
When I renewed my -6 insurance for the first time in April, I spoke to
Scott Smith of SkySmith at some length about dropping full in-flight
coverage. I figured that if I was going to prang it, it would happen in
the first year. If I do hurt it, it will be either 1) minor, which I
will fix myself, or 2) I won't be around to worry about it. I think you
have to be at least a little fatalistic when looking at insurance.
Scott agreed with my assessment.
As for the price, we ran some numbers, and the price for full inflight
went down about $200 over the first year, mostly due to more time in
type (150 vs. 5 hours.) I ended up with $1M liability, $70,000 hull,
ground not-in-motion (covers fire, theft, etc. but nothing once the
plane starts moving.) $921 a year, which I can live with. Full
in-flight would have been about $800 more, which is a lot of gas.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
do not archive
>
>
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
I have a Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) and want to add an audio warning to it.
Has anyone experimented with a pressure differential switch (the LRI needle
operates by indicating pressure differential) to actuate a warning tone in
your headset? The LRI manufacturer has told me for three years he is working on
this. I am tired of waiting for something he is likely not going to develop
and want to develop something on my own.
Pete - Clearwater, FL
RV-6, getting ready for test flight
Message 17
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| Subject: | RV Insurance Rates |
--> RV-List message posted by: John <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I am low time - 500 hours or so, fly RV6A, don't need hull or passenger
coverage, got $1 Mil liability only with hangar (premises coverage) for
$478 from Avemco.
FWIW
John
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
It's been a few years since I installed the brakes in my -4, but I have had
to work on them a couple of times, so perhaps I can offer a few suggestions.
If moving the rudder (from outside the aircraft) can cause a brake to
grab, I would look at two things. First, check that none of the pivots in
the brake/rudder pedal/master cylinder are binding such that moving the
rudder pedal compresses the master cylinder. Similarly, check that the
brake lines are not so short or so stiff that moving the rudder pedal allows
the brake lines to exert a force on the cylinder.
Good luck,
Dean
----Original Message Follows----
From: "brucebell74" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV4 Brakes
--> RV-List message posted by: "brucebell74" <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
Hi All,
Last week I started my RV4 for the first time and found a brake problem. The
brakes are applied when the rudder petals are moved left or right. I first
thought it was my big feet but today while pulling it back in the hangar
with my new Bogart Aviation towbar I found the brakes are applied with a
small movement of the rudder. Anyone had this problem? Anyone with a
suggestion?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
"O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
the "mount plate" (VA-131-C).
My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the
"clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What
have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something??
Thanks,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc.
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I got the same engine and carb. Seal around the cutout using high
temperature silicone stuff, which is red color. Degrease/clean the area
well before application. I bought mine at Autozone. You will use more of
it when you seal up the baffles. Buy at least two tubes of the stuff.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
>
> I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
> "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
> carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
> the "mount plate" (VA-131-C).
> My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the
> "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What
> have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something??
> Thanks,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc.
>
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
I used red RTV high temp silicon from NAPA...about $5 for a standard size
caulk tube with a cap. I have various medical syringes around the shop (we
have a nurse in the family) which make excellent dispensers for the tube
since the caulk tube is somewhat bulky. Use the syringes without the
needle and use the original caps as a seal. The silicon can be put into a
small size and a larger size syringe and you will get an 1/8" & about a
1/4" bead respectively with very good quantity control. I caulked all
around the engine baffles, the carburetor mount plate, as chaff pads on my
SCAT tubing, and other uses as I did my FWF and still had about 25% of my
original supply left over after about a year of use and it all remained
fresh with no hardening as long as I capped the tube/syringes.
Dick DeCramer
Southern Minnesota
N500DD Rv6 Slider
0320 Sensenich FP
48 hrs. Flight time
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob C. <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>;
<rv8-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 5/27/2005 8:25:23 PM
> Subject: RV-List: FAB
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
>
> I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
> "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
> carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
> the "mount plate" (VA-131-C).
> My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the
> "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What
> have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something??
> Thanks,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc.
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Wing/Horizontal Stab incidence |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Group:
I have my wings plugged into my 6A and am ready to drill the rear spar attach holes,
thus setting the incidence.
I am limited to the amount of positive incidence I can get to .5 degrees without
running into some serious edge distance problems for the 5/16th inch bolts.
The question is......If I set my wing incidence at positive .5 degrees, what should
I do with the Horizontal stabilizer incidence to compensate? Should I set
it to have .5 degrees negative incidence? So If say you could only get .4 degrees
of positive wing incidence, should you set the horizontal stab to .6 degrees
negative incidence? Can I assume that you want the difference between the
two to always be 1 degree?
Thanks in advance. Sure is cool to see an airplane in the hangar with wings on
it for a change!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
setting wing incidence
Peshtigo, WI
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