Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:35 AM - RV6A Nose Gear Fairing Question (Greg Grigson)
2. 04:26 AM - Re: Filler durability (DAVID REEL)
3. 06:13 AM - Re: Filler durability (Richard Crosley)
4. 06:21 AM - Re: CHT's....... how high is high? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
5. 06:28 AM - Re: RV6A Nose Gear Fairing Question (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
6. 06:56 AM - Re: Filler durability (Mickey Coggins)
7. 07:41 AM - Engine thrustline (George Inman)
8. 08:50 AM - Re: What's a "VOR" ???(Homebuilts must have Ground based NAV equip) ()
9. 09:01 AM - New to the group (Richard Leach)
10. 10:09 AM - Re: New to the group (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
11. 10:58 AM - Re: Filler durability (Charlie England)
12. 11:52 AM - CHT's....... how high is high? (Charlie Brame)
13. 12:01 PM - Re: Re: What's a "VOR" ???(Homebuilts must have Ground based NAV equip) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
14. 12:04 PM - Re: New to the group (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 01:04 PM - Re: New to the group (Chris W)
16. 02:06 PM - RV 7 Slider rear skirts (Stan Jones)
17. 02:28 PM - Re: Filler durability (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
18. 02:35 PM - Re: New to the group (Tim Olson)
19. 06:29 PM - Re: New to the group (Tim Bryan)
20. 07:16 PM - Re: Engine thrustline (Randy Lervold)
21. 07:31 PM - Re: Dynon AOA (Hal Kempthorne)
22. 08:56 PM - Re: RV 7 Slider rear skirts (Bobby Hester)
23. 10:09 PM - Firewall forward RV6 Engine & Prop (Larry Olson)
24. 10:28 PM - AOA Patents??? (Matt Johnson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RV6A Nose Gear Fairing Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
I'm wrapping up my RV-6A finally! I can't find Figure
10-10 in my RV6/6A instructions (which are eight years
old by now). Am I missing anything earth shattering
or will I eventually figure out after a few days
thought? The figure is referenced in the COWL/NOSE
GEAR INTERFACE section on page 10-9 (last page).
Thanks in advance.
Greg Grigson
Honolulu
__________________________________
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Filler durability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Filling all the rivets seems a bit extreme. My painter didn't have any problem
using Imron. Five years & 900 flying hours later the paint is in excellent
condition.
Has anyone actually seen a problem with Imron adhesion around the rivet
heads?
My inquiry about filler durability was prompted by painting a 'spare' rudder.
The test paint job showed dark rings around many of the rivet heads where the
imron did not flow over the gap. It wasn't a cleaning problem because the primer
flowed into the gap fine but didn't remove it enough everywhere for the imron
to bridge the gap reliably.
Dave - RV8A
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Filler durability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley@adelphia.net>
I used Imron paint and agree it does not like to flow across the rivet. I like
the look of the rivets so used spray can primer before painting. Spray the
rivet line and wipe it off with a credit card. The primer is forced down into
the little rivet crack and the Imron flows nicely across the rivet. If you want
the rivets to go away entirely then you'll have to use a filler and do a lot
of sanding, and push your first flight back a month or so.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, N948RC
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CHT's....... how high is high? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 6/3/05 10:29:58 PM Central Daylight Time,
jacklockamy@verizon.net writes:
> If I could do it again, and I may, I would ENSURE I got an 0-360 cowl from
> Van's for ANY engine I was installing.
>>>>
Howdy Jack-
Pretty sure one difference between the 320 & 360 cowl is the location of the
carb inlet- seems it's about an inch lower on the big motor cowls 'cause of
that big honkin' carb hanging like a double-D udder under it, as oppposed to the
smaller 320 carbs. (which is why the smaller engine cowls look so much
nicer, IMHO!) The total shape of the inlet/exhaust blister may affect flow out
the
rear- curious if you could get actual inlet/outlet area for the 360 cowl and
compare size & ratio to yours?
Also, maybe it would be easy to rig some kind of stand-off(s) from the bottom
of the firewall down to the edge of the cowl outlet to hold it open a bit
wider? Should be easy to do, might just try that myself! Could be an easy
comparo to quantify effects of cowl outlet size?
Mark Phillips
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV6A Nose Gear Fairing Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 6/4/05 2:36:41 AM Central Daylight Time,
iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com writes:
> I can't find Figure
> 10-10 in my RV6/6A instructions (which are eight years
> old by now
>>>
Hi Greg-
Neither could I, or rather, I couldn't figure out why to make something so
complicated to just close out the slot. I just resorted to a small aluminum
plate, wider than the slot and shaped to match the rear of the leg fairing, with
a couple of platenuts on either side. Screws go up through the cowl into the
platenuts. I added epoxy/flox/microballoon mix to fill the gap on the plate
between the cowl edges, sanded flush with the cowl. Four screws and it's off.
I'll send a bad foto off-list...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A N51PW, 185 hrs...
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Filler durability |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> I used Imron paint and agree it does not like to flow across the
> rivet. I like the look of the rivets so used spray can primer
> before painting. Spray the rivet line and wipe it off with a credit
> card. The primer is forced down into the little rivet crack and the
> Imron flows nicely across the rivet. If you want the rivets to go
> away entirely then you'll have to use a filler and do a lot of
> sanding, and push your first flight back a month or so.
I like the look of rivets, too, but I've seen some problems with
dark colors. Wax or polish sticks in the rivet or along the
edge of the rivet, and stays white. I guess flushing up the
rivets might help. I'm a ways away from worrying about this,
but it never hurts to plan ahead.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 7
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| Subject: | Engine thrustline |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
How close does the engine thrustline have
to match the cabin longerons?
My engine thrustline is about one degree downward
compared to the cabin longerons.In my RV-8 QB
If it was one degree upward I would not worry about
it since the engine might sag that much.
Is there anyone flying with one degree down.?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: What's a "VOR" ???(Homebuilts must have Ground based NAV |
equip)
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
"I don't agree with the interpretation"
"I'm willing to bet the feds would be hard pressed to actually bust someone"
Mike: Those quotes are great but are you guessing? Not saying you are wrong, but
the EAA posts an article saying all the GPS technology, geosync orbit , WAAS,
is not the point. It makes sense (IFR) GPS should not require a reglatory back-up,
but the FAA and FAR's do not always make sense. I was wondering if someone
has ask the FAA. My guess is they will not know off-hand or you will get more
than one answer. I hope you are right.
Of course others have made excellent points that a VOR/LOC/ILS back-up is a good
idea or needed for a legal alternate approach.
Cheers George
>Subject: Re: What's a "VOR" ???(Homebuilts must have Ground based NAV equip)
NOT
>From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>Actually, WAAS is computed on the ground from reference stations but the
correction
>signal is transmitted from two satellites in geosync orbit.
>Either way I don't agree with the interpretation that it has to be ground
based
>and I'm willing to bet the feds would be hard pressed to actually bust someone
>for it. Now using a non-TSO'd GPS for area or approach nav as a primary
source
>you would probably get busted, experimental or not.
---------------------------------
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Message 9
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| Subject: | New to the group |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
Hello all. My name is Rick Leach and I am a new builder. I actually
have had my RV10 empennage kit for about a month and finally got to
start on it a couple of days ago. Real humbling for the first step to
be cutting out stock. Several questions if anyone can help. What is
the best way to cut the thicker pieces of stock and two, I have 2 part
epoxy primer but there are no mixing instructions. I am assuming that
it is equal parts of A and B.
My questions may be basic but I believe in the old saying that the only
dumb question is the unasked question. I am sure I will have many more.
Thanks all,
Rick #40397
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: New to the group |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 6/4/05 11:02:20 AM Central Daylight Time,
papadaddyo@verizon.net writes:
> What is
> the best way to cut the thicker pieces of stock
>>>>
Welcome to the fray, Rick!
If'n ya ain't got yerself a bandsaw yet, ya best git shoppin! Of course,
they may not be as useful for the newer kits, but I sure busted out lots of parts
on mine for my -6A slo-bild. Most useful was a real skinny (width-wise)
metal blade, about 8 or 10 teeth per inch IIRC. Works great for anything from
.025 sheet and thicker. Also works good for plastic, wood, fingers etc. 8-)
Alternately, you could use a cut-off disc in a die grinder, but take care you
don't toast yer fingers! Hacksaw would be way down the list somewhere...
(sorry- can't hep with the primer stuff)
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips N51PW, 190 hrs.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Filler durability |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
DAVID REEL wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> Filling all the rivets seems a bit extreme. My painter didn't have any problem
> using Imron. Five years & 900 flying hours later the paint is in excellent
condition.
> Has anyone actually seen a problem with Imron adhesion around the rivet
> heads?
>
>My inquiry about filler durability was prompted by painting a 'spare' rudder.
The test paint job showed dark rings around many of the rivet heads where the
imron did not flow over the gap. It wasn't a cleaning problem because the primer
flowed into the gap fine but didn't remove it enough everywhere for the imron
to bridge the gap reliably.
>
>Dave - RV8A
>
One tip I saw recently was to wipe diluted proseal over the rivet heads
to fill the groove.
I owned a -4 for about 7 years that had filled heads on the top of the
wings. It wasn't heavy (932 lbs) & it was fun answering questions at
flyins & airshows. "Why did you build a fiberglas airplane?" "It's all
metal; look at the bottom of the wing."
It was also pretty fast, 170 kts on a tired O-320/wood prop/old style
pants/etc @ 75% power.
Charlie
Message 12
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| Subject: | CHT's....... how high is high? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
Regarding putting an 0--360 cowl on an 0-320 powered RV-6/7/9: An 0-360
cowl will obviously fit; however, keep in mind that the 0-360 cowl has a
larger lower air scoop with much more frontal area than the 0-320 scoop.
More frontal area = more drag and less speed.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-------------------------------------
> Time: 08:28:36 PM PST US
> From: "jacklockamy"
> Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT's....... how high is high?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "jacklockamy"
>
> ----------snip--------------
>
> My recommendation for anyone installing a 150 or 160 HP Lycoming on their RV....
> ensure you get the Lycoming 0-360 cowl from Van's!!! The 90235 cowl is TOO
> small. My hangar mate has a Lycoming 0-360 (and cowl) and his inlets/exits are
> perfect for the engine. I test flew his aircraft for the first 25 hours on
> a brand new Suerior engine and the CHT's never got above 360 degrees with an
OAT
> of 80 degs F. His inlets and exit air openings are considerably larger than
> mine. (Sorry... I don't have the actual measurements.). I think Van's got
> the 0-360 cowl right, but missed the boat sending 90235 cowlings to Lycoming
> 0-320/160
> HP customers. If I could do it again, and I may, I would ENSURE I got
> an 0-360 cowl from Van's for ANY engine I was installing. The inlets/exits
> are better sized.....
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> N174JL at the paint shop!
> http://www.yudavision.net/rv/#7
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: What's a "VOR" ???(Homebuilts must have Ground based |
NAV equip)
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Nope, nothing official to back it up other than my feeling that this
relates to the pre-GPS regs and was never really updated. Of course I
could be completely wrong. I also expect EAA to error on the side of
caution when interpreting regs. Nothing wrong with that. I would love
to hear the "official" FAA answer on this but we all know that the only
official FAA answer is that the answer changes depending who you ask.
Either way I will have normal VOR based NAV equipment as I will never
100% trust GPS until someone makes it jam proof. Low power signal in
LEO = fairly easy to overpower. I want to be able to reference a ground
based NAV whenever possible, especially on an approach. Reminds me of
the story of the former Russian scientist walking around the Paris
airshow trying to get someone to buy his GPS jammer that was built out
of spare parts. Of course I heard that from a friend who heard it from
a friend so take it with a cup of salt. But this is probably also the
reason the gov is getting ready to completely overhaul the GPS. Guess
that means another round of expensive avionics upgrades in 10 years. ;-)
My 2 cents and oh ya, DO NOT ARCHIVE.
Michael Sausen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: What's a "VOR" ???(Homebuilts must have Ground
based NAV equip)
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
"I don't agree with the interpretation"
"I'm willing to bet the feds would be hard pressed to actually bust
someone"
Mike: Those quotes are great but are you guessing? Not saying you are
wrong, but the EAA posts an article saying all the GPS technology,
geosync orbit , WAAS, is not the point. It makes sense (IFR) GPS should
not require a reglatory back-up, but the FAA and FAR's do not always
make sense. I was wondering if someone has ask the FAA. My guess is they
will not know off-hand or you will get more than one answer. I hope you
are right.
Of course others have made excellent points that a VOR/LOC/ILS back-up
is a good idea or needed for a legal alternate approach.
Cheers George
>Subject: Re: What's a "VOR" ???(Homebuilts must have Ground based NAV
>equip) NOT
>From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>Actually, WAAS is computed on the ground from reference stations
but the correction
>signal is transmitted from two satellites in geosync orbit.
>Either way I don't agree with the interpretation that it has to
be ground based
>and I'm willing to bet the feds would be hard pressed to actually
bust someone
>for it. Now using a non-TSO'd GPS for area or approach nav as a
primary source
>you would probably get busted, experimental or not.
---------------------------------
Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news & more. Check it out!
Message 14
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| Subject: | New to the group |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Welcome Rick, check the archives as there has been a lot of discussion
on bandsaws. If you haven't joined the RV-10 specific group here, make
sure you do. Lot's of traffic on there since we all left the Yahoo
group.
Personally I went with a $99 cheapy from Harbor Freight. It's
variable speed, benchtop, and works pretty good.
Michael Sausen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: New to the group
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 6/4/05 11:02:20 AM Central Daylight Time,
papadaddyo@verizon.net writes:
> What is
> the best way to cut the thicker pieces of stock
>>>>
Welcome to the fray, Rick!
If'n ya ain't got yerself a bandsaw yet, ya best git shoppin! Of
course, they may not be as useful for the newer kits, but I sure busted
out lots of parts on mine for my -6A slo-bild. Most useful was a real
skinny (width-wise) metal blade, about 8 or 10 teeth per inch IIRC.
Works great for anything from
.025 sheet and thicker. Also works good for plastic, wood, fingers etc.
8-)
Alternately, you could use a cut-off disc in a die grinder, but take
care you don't toast yer fingers! Hacksaw would be way down the list
somewhere...
(sorry- can't hep with the primer stuff)
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips N51PW, 190 hrs.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: New to the group |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Richard Leach wrote:
>I have 2 part
>epoxy primer but there are no mixing instructions. I am assuming that
>it is equal parts of A and B.
>
>
Various brands of epoxy can have lots of different mix ratios. I would
sit down at the computer with your A and B cans of primer and do some
searching on google for the manufacturers web site and find the details
of that particular hardener and epoxy. Be sure you are looking at the
specs for the exact product you have, some manufactures have different
hardeners for the same epoxy resin that require different mix ratios.
--
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | RV 7 Slider rear skirts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
Fitting the rear skirts, I can get it just fine until I get to the bottom
six inches.
I get it sitting on the Fuse, and the side skirts pop out, and then I have
it fitting fine with the side skirt, and the
rear skirt pops off the Fuse. It's the compound curve is the problem.
I need some advice from those who have achieved a reasonable result.
Stan Jones. N.Z.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Filler durability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
1300 hours on Imron with no trouble. The paint looks as good as the day
it was painted.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Good
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filler durability
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Filling all the rivets seems a bit extreme. My painter didn't have any
problem using Imron. Five years & 900 flying hours later the paint is
in excellent condition. Has anyone actually seen a problem with Imron
adhesion around the rivet heads?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filler durability
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> On 06/03 12:23, DAVID REEL wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
> >
> > I'd like to hear from anyone with experience of the durability
> of filler on aluminum. The Imron paint my painter wants to use
> won't cover the small gap between rivet head and dimpled skin
> reliably so we intend to fill the rivets before painting. The
> plane will be yellow and stored outside so I'm anticipating a
> pretty severe shrink/expand movement in the aluminum. The
> documents I've seen don't address the coefficient of expansion of
> the filler relative to aluminum or the strength of the bond so I'm
> hoping your experiences, good and bad, can shed some light to help
> us pick a good filler that won't crack around the rivets.
> >
> > We're considering All-Metal, Superfil, Aeropoxy light,
> Everglass, Feather Fill, Sterling Primer/filler, and Dynalite.
>
> What about Hysol? I've heard good things about it but have no
> personal experience with it.
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
--
NEW! Lycos Dating Search. The only place to search multiple dating sites
at once.
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: New to the group |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Rick,
Glad to hear you're started on your tail kit. Don't worry, after
a few sessions you'll get into the swing of it.
I found the easiest way to cut most things that are in the
kit is a bandsaw. I got a cheap Harbor Freight 12" model
that is currently $109.99. I wouldn't go any less than a 9",
but larger is nicer. The bandsaw will be used a LOT of times
during the process. I also bought an air powered cutoff tool,
that is nice for cutting some things. Between those 2 items,
95% of my cutting is done.
You didn't mention your primer brand and type. Not all are the
same. I'm using AKZO from Aircraft Spruce. It's a 1:1 mixture.
I don't get overly precise...I just have 2 measuring dip cups
and I take out equal numbers of cupfuls of each. Works well
for me.
One other suggestion for you. This RV list is fantastic, but
you should not forget to join the other RV10-List on the
Matronics page too. It's on the same subscription page
on Matronics site. You can post this type of question there
and if you reference specific parts, there are many of us who
have been through what you're about to take on.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Richard Leach wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>
> Hello all. My name is Rick Leach and I am a new builder. I actually
> have had my RV10 empennage kit for about a month and finally got to
> start on it a couple of days ago. Real humbling for the first step to
> be cutting out stock. Several questions if anyone can help. What is
> the best way to cut the thicker pieces of stock and two, I have 2 part
> epoxy primer but there are no mixing instructions. I am assuming that
> it is equal parts of A and B.
>
> My questions may be basic but I believe in the old saying that the only
> dumb question is the unasked question. I am sure I will have many more.
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Rick #40397
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: New to the group |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
Rick,
When looking at band saws, make sure the speed will slow down to about 300
or so. Also make sure you can get a metal cutting blade for it that is good
for aluminium. Makes a big difference. My first bandsaw would not slow
down and did not work well. I bought a variable speed saw from sears and
love it. Slows way down and they have a non ferous metal cutting blade.
Works great.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Richard Leach
Subject: RV-List: New to the group
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
Hello all. My name is Rick Leach and I am a new builder. I actually
have had my RV10 empennage kit for about a month and finally got to
start on it a couple of days ago. Real humbling for the first step to
be cutting out stock. Several questions if anyone can help. What is
the best way to cut the thicker pieces of stock and two, I have 2 part
epoxy primer but there are no mixing instructions. I am assuming that
it is equal parts of A and B.
My questions may be basic but I believe in the old saying that the only
dumb question is the unasked question. I am sure I will have many more.
Thanks all,
Rick #40397
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Engine thrustline |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> How close does the engine thrustline have
> to match the cabin longerons?
> My engine thrustline is about one degree downward
> compared to the cabin longerons.In my RV-8 QB
> If it was one degree upward I would not worry about
> it since the engine might sag that much.
> Is there anyone flying with one degree down.?
George, I researched this issue some time ago when building my RV-8. See
this page for what I found...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Engine.htm
Regards,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
I am all but certain that you are right. Put in in a black box and no one will
know.
Is there a lawyer in the house?
hal
Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
RobHickman@aol.com wrote:
>. . .it would also violate the
>Patents on the AFS AOA System.
>
>
Patents don't prevent me from building a patented design and using it
for myself, it just prevents me from building it and selling it. I
could be wrong about that, but I don't think so.
do not archive
--
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Slider rear skirts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Stan Jones wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
>
>Fitting the rear skirts, I can get it just fine until I get to the bottom
>six inches.
>I get it sitting on the Fuse, and the side skirts pop out, and then I have
>it fitting fine with the side skirt, and the
>rear skirt pops off the Fuse. It's the compound curve is the problem.
>I need some advice from those who have achieved a reasonable result.
>Stan Jones. N.Z.
>
>
>
>
I've got the same results, I'm about ready to call them done with 1/4"
gap at the back bottom edge of the rear skirts. I can't seem to find
anything to make it better. I'll use weather stipping of some type
inside to help seal the air gap. I did use a metal shrinker of the top
frt. edge to help it fit better. Not sure if I want to try that on the
rear bottom though.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 23
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| Subject: | Firewall forward RV6 Engine & Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Olson <lolson22@cox.net>
For Sale
Engine & Prop
Firewall forward off a RV6
All included except engine mount.
Lycoming O320-A2A 160 hp
200 hrs SMOH
Absolutely everything was done at overhaul
Balanced pistons, rods and crank
All AD's complied with.
Spin on oil filter.
New Slick mags and harnesses.
Vacuum Pump
Vetterman exhaust
Van's filtered air box w/alt air
Carb
Van's throttle and mixture bracket
Van's 35 amp alternator
Sky-Tec starter
Heat muff
Baffling
Oil cooler & oil lines
(oil cooler mounted LR baffle)
Fuel Pump
Engine runs great
Can accept a CS prop
Sensenich FP Prop
70CM6S9-0-80
Van's spinner (true to .004)
Spinner painted Sherwin Williams AcroGlow White
If purchased before my new 200hp arrives you can hear it run and take
a test flight. My RV6 with this set up cruses at 185 mph and climbs at
1500 fpm. I never had any heat issues even in 100+ summers in Arizona.
I took very good care of this engine. I have all records and oil analysis.
I changed the oil after 10 hrs then at 25 hrs then every 25 hrs after that.
This is a great set up and will cut hundreds of hours off your build time.
Think
about it, all of the bugs have been worked out. You won't have to build the
baffle!!! I am replacing the engine and prop with an IO360 and a CS prop.
$20,000 fob Phoenix, AZ
Larry Olson
Message 24
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(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I have built an AOA that uses differential pressure. It is interesting
that you mention violating AFS or Dynon's patents since I know that
the process of using differential pressure to determine AOA is not new.
The airlines all use it.
What exactly is AFS patent for?
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon AOA
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> My understanding is a patent prevents someone from building, selling or
> "using" a patented invention. The rub is, unless you build or sell the
> invention, the damages would be so small from infringement that the
> cost of
> enforcing the patent would far outweigh the damages.
>
> If I am correct, then you are practically right, but technically wrong.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> Do not archive
>
> >
> > RobHickman@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Patents don't prevent me from building a patented design and using it
> > for myself, it just prevents me from building it and selling it. I
> > could be wrong about that, but I don't think so.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
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