Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:02 AM - Re: tools and canopy cover for saletools and canopy cover for sale (Paul Lein)
2. 05:56 AM - The engine breather (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
3. 06:38 AM - Re: The engine breather (linn walters)
4. 07:05 AM - Re: Filter Bypass Door (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
5. 07:36 AM - Re: The engine breather ()
6. 08:00 AM - Re: RV 7 Slider rear skirts-removing Sika adhesive (Karen and Robert Brown)
7. 08:02 AM - Re: Re: What's a "VOR" ??? (Chuck Jensen)
8. 08:04 AM - Re: Re: Filter Bypass Door (Tim Bryan)
9. 08:56 AM - The engine breather (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
10. 09:40 AM - Re: tools and canopy cover for sale (Paul Lein)
11. 09:57 AM - Re: tools and canopy cover for sale (Konrad L. Werner)
12. 10:20 AM - Filter Bypass Door (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
13. 01:06 PM - Re: Dynon AOA (sportav8r@aol.com)
14. 02:00 PM - Re: Dynon AOA (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 03:13 PM - RV fuel discount @ KAAT (Dan Checkoway)
16. 05:11 PM - Re: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools (JOHN STARN)
17. 06:23 PM - cheyenne? (Tony)
18. 06:31 PM - W&B calculator (Walter Tondu)
19. 07:09 PM - Re: W&B calculator (Mark Burns)
20. 07:45 PM - Re: W&B calculator (Walter Tondu)
21. 07:57 PM - Re: The engine breather (Charlie England)
22. 08:20 PM - Re: The engine breather (linn walters)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: tools and canopy cover for saletools and canopy cover for |
sale
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Lein <pj115@journey.com>
I'll try to make a list and take some digital photos tomorrow and get
back to you all. I will ship the canopy cover but the rest is very
heavy - bucking bars, clecos, etc. so I won't ship that stuff.
cheers,
Paul
Paul Lein
1555 South Brinton Road
Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628
Tel. 989 644-2451
Message 2
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| Subject: | The engine breather |
0.11 HTML_TAG_EXIST_TBODY BODY: HTML has "tbody" tag
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Rich,
I put this type of oil/air separator on my RV-6A. I mounted the separator
on the top right
side of the firewall (so that it was higher than the engine) and ran the oil
return into a
modified oil return line off of #3cyclinder. The modified return line is
just 3/8" "T" in the
line with a short nipple for the oil return line to attach.
Fred stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
395 Hrs
Second offender!
From: "Crosley, Rich" < RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM
<mailto:RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> >
Subject: The engine breather
0.38 FROM_NO_LOWER From address has no lower-case
characters
--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <
RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM <mailto:RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> >
What are you doing with the breather pipe? I set mine up per the
directions, ran it down above the exhaust pipe. But....I still get
oil on
the belly. My current thought is to buy the $40.00 Spruce air-oil
separator, open it up and put in the scrub pad and mount it on the
firewall.
If I do that.......what do I do with the oil? Run it back in the
engine
(not sure I like that option), run it into a bottle or other
container, or
overboard, but then how do I keep it off the airplane? Run a line to
the
tail? What's working for everyone?
Rich Crosley
RV8, N948RC
Rosamond, CA
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: The engine breather |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I don't recommend (actually strongly oppose) returning the reclaimes
junk to the crankcase. I've seen the 'output' run through a long loop
of plastic hose to contain the crud, and the hose is periodically
emptied. this is in lieu of a small jar to catch the drippings which
can also be periodically emptied. If you have access to litmus paper,
test fresh oil and the recovered oil and see just how acidic the
recovered oil is.
Linn
do not archive ..... already there somewhere!
Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>
>Rich,
>
> I put this type of oil/air separator on my RV-6A. I mounted the separator
>on the top right
>side of the firewall (so that it was higher than the engine) and ran the oil
>return into a
>modified oil return line off of #3cyclinder. The modified return line is
>just 3/8" "T" in the
>line with a short nipple for the oil return line to attach.
>
>Fred stucklen
>RV-6A N926RV
>395 Hrs
>Second offender!
>
>
>From: "Crosley, Rich" < RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM
><mailto:RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> >
>Subject: The engine breather
> 0.38 FROM_NO_LOWER From address has no lower-case
>characters
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <
>RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM <mailto:RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> >
>
> What are you doing with the breather pipe? I set mine up per the
> directions, ran it down above the exhaust pipe. But....I still get
>oil on
> the belly. My current thought is to buy the $40.00 Spruce air-oil
> separator, open it up and put in the scrub pad and mount it on the
>firewall.
> If I do that.......what do I do with the oil? Run it back in the
>engine
> (not sure I like that option), run it into a bottle or other
>container, or
> overboard, but then how do I keep it off the airplane? Run a line to
>the
> tail? What's working for everyone?
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV8, N948RC
> Rosamond, CA
>
>
>
>
--
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: Filter Bypass Door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Yep, I missed that. I must have installed the door differently than what
Van's specs now as it's not mounted in fiberglass.... Interesting....
The other issue I have with the door opening up into the lower cowl is
that it bypasses any Carb heat that comes off the exhaust muff (if you have
that). I've found in past testing that the heated air in the lower cowl is
not sufficient to prevent carb ice, especially in IFR conditions. My filter
bypass door always takes air from the air box, not the lower cowl, always
allowing for unfiltered carb heated air to be available......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
395 Hrs
Second Offender!
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Reynolds [mailto:rvreynolds@macs.net]
Subject: Re: Filter Bypass Door
Ahh, the first sentence says "RV-6A".
Richard Reynolds
On Jun 7, 2005, at 8:59 AM, Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR wrote:
> Richard,
>
> What type of plane? My bypass door is mounted into the metal
> plate on the
> bottom of the air filter on the RV-6A... No fiberglass involved...
>
> Fred Stucklen
>
> I just finished my annual on my RV-6A (N841RV) after 160 hours. When I
> removed the VA-131-A Air Box to service the air filter, I noticed the
> VA-191A Magnet Retainer was gone. The AN426AD3.5 flush rivets had
> pulled
> through the thin fiberglass shell of the Air Box. Fortunately, the
> VA-191M
> Magnet had fallen down and attached itself to one of the nut plates
> of the
> nose wheel fairing cover. The Magnet Retainer was no where to be
> found. I
> inspected the throat of the carburetor to make sure it was not
> lodged in the
> throat. I fabricated a new Magnet Retainer with the body running
> longitudinally , the Magnet on the aft end and two 1/8 pop rivets with
> backing washers forward of the VA-191B Filter Bypass Door. I had
> noticed on
> engine run ups in the last few hours before the annual with
> carburetor heat
> pulled, the RPMS did not drop as much and the carburetor
> temperature did not
> rise as much. I thought it was just the warmer weather. I plan to send
> report this to Vans Aircraft. Richard Reynolds
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: The engine breather |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Rich,
First check the archives for this list again. My advise is:
-If your engine is healthy very little actual oil comes out of the breather
-Oil comes from leaks into the bottom of the cowl as well and blow by from the
breather
-Most of the stuff coming out of the breather is water with a little oil
-Try no breather and use the burn it off the exhaust pipe method at first
-If you must use a oil separator, don't stuff pot scrubbers in it, unless you can
clean it.
-Breather/post scrubber, equals more back pressure, higher internal engine crank
pressure
-The breather restrictions cause more caustic crud stays in engine.
-I had a oil separator on my RV-4, most of the stuff was a nasty mix of water,
very little oil
-The amount of volume of stuff collected from the air/oil separator was not small
-If you do use a air/oil separator don't route it back to the engine, collect it
and dispose.
-If you must use a separator collect in a little plastic or metal bottle
-The M20 air/oil is a ridiculous piece of way way over priced hype
Cheers George
>From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>Subject: RV-List: The engine breather
>
> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
>What are you doing with the breather pipe? I set mine up per the
>directions, ran it down above the exhaust pipe. But....I still get oil
>on the belly. My current thought is to buy the $40.00 Spruce air-oil
>separator, open it up and put in the scrub pad and mount it on the
>firewall. If I do that.......what do I do with the oil? Run it back in the
>engine (not sure I like that option), run it into a bottle or other container,
>or overboard, but then how do I keep it off the airplane? Run a line to
>the tail? What's working for everyone?
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV8, N948RC
>Rosamond, CA
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Slider rear skirts-removing Sika adhesive |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
There is one hole in my canopy...the hole for the canopy latch handle. As such,
there isn't much stress from which to propogate a crack. I'm sure there are
other things that cause a canopy to fail, but I'm not liking to visualize those
scenarios...In the highly unlikely event that you'd have to remove the canopy
from the frame, you would use a fine wire (a small "E" guitar string would
do nicely) and push it through the adhesive, then pull it along the frame. My
choice would just be to redo the frame, I'm not sure you'd get the bonding surface
you'd want on top of the old adhesive'd area. Timemoney.
Bob
RV7A
Wiring Trutrak ADI
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: What's a "VOR" ??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
I believe the Garmin 480 is again the exception. With the 480, you can pick an
alternate with a GPS approach--if the RAIM is calculted to be within acceptable
values--rarely is not.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER
Subject: RV-List: Re: What's a "VOR" ???
--> RV-List message posted by: SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic@sbcglobal.net>
True. However, one thing to keep in mind is that GPS approaches are NOT authorized
for use when picking an alternate airport -which is a very important point
when flying IFR (gotta' have a back door! -both in practicality and legality
as well, depending on the conditions...) SOooo... you either have to pick an alternate
in 'guaranteed' VFR weather that allows you to proceed from the enroute
IFR structure to the surface VMC (certainly a gamble) ... OR... you must have
another form of nav onboard and pick an alternate not predicated on a GPS
approach.
Bottom line... if you go flying IFR with just a GPS onboard you're foolish (read
'stupid')... and depending on whether or not you have RAIM, the weather being
below mins and your requiring an alternate, you could be screwed. All this not
even considering a failure of your onboard equipment. Like a few others on
this list, I fly IFR for a living, and as wonderful as they are, there's no way
I'd consider going off into the muck with just a GPS.
Scott N4ZW
--> RV-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net> Wrong!! Although there is a vor/ils built in to the 480 the gps portion is certified without the requirement to hook up or use them. It is certified (and it is the only unit that is under TSO C 146a levels 1,2,3) This is why it is stand alone. The need for ground based equipment does not apply to devices certified under C146a. Read it before you come back with flames (g) Don -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: What's a "VOR" ??? --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net> That's because the 480 has a VOR/ILS built in. Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DonVS Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: What's a "VOR" ??? --> RV-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net> This is al
most
correvt. A Garmin 480 is certified for primary nav and needs no "land based backup".
-----Original Message----- From
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Filter Bypass Door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
I might not be understanding this correctly, but are we talking about the
same door? The carb heat door on my 6 is mounted in the top (metal) plate
of the carb air box. The magnetic door in the bottom is for emergency in
case of air flow stoppage in the filter. It is mounted in fiberglass. The
bottom magnetic door is for emergency. If it opens to allow unfiltered,
unheated air in, the alternative was engine stopage. Seems like a
reasonable trade off.
Has van's changed the design of this? Curious
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR
Subject: RV-List: RE: Filter Bypass Door
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred
Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Yep, I missed that. I must have installed the door differently than what
Van's specs now as it's not mounted in fiberglass.... Interesting....
The other issue I have with the door opening up into the lower cowl is
that it bypasses any Carb heat that comes off the exhaust muff (if you have
that). I've found in past testing that the heated air in the lower cowl is
not sufficient to prevent carb ice, especially in IFR conditions. My filter
bypass door always takes air from the air box, not the lower cowl, always
allowing for unfiltered carb heated air to be available......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
395 Hrs
Second Offender!
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Reynolds [mailto:rvreynolds@macs.net]
Subject: Re: Filter Bypass Door
Ahh, the first sentence says "RV-6A".
Richard Reynolds
On Jun 7, 2005, at 8:59 AM, Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR wrote:
> Richard,
>
> What type of plane? My bypass door is mounted into the metal
> plate on the
> bottom of the air filter on the RV-6A... No fiberglass involved...
>
> Fred Stucklen
>
> I just finished my annual on my RV-6A (N841RV) after 160 hours. When I
> removed the VA-131-A Air Box to service the air filter, I noticed the
> VA-191A Magnet Retainer was gone. The AN426AD3.5 flush rivets had
> pulled
> through the thin fiberglass shell of the Air Box. Fortunately, the
> VA-191M
> Magnet had fallen down and attached itself to one of the nut plates
> of the
> nose wheel fairing cover. The Magnet Retainer was no where to be
> found. I
> inspected the throat of the carburetor to make sure it was not
> lodged in the
> throat. I fabricated a new Magnet Retainer with the body running
> longitudinally , the Magnet on the aft end and two 1/8 pop rivets with
> backing washers forward of the VA-191B Filter Bypass Door. I had
> noticed on
> engine run ups in the last few hours before the annual with
> carburetor heat
> pulled, the RPMS did not drop as much and the carburetor
> temperature did not
> rise as much. I thought it was just the warmer weather. I plan to send
> report this to Vans Aircraft. Richard Reynolds
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | The engine breather |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
I can't say scientifically what problems returning the oil can cause.
But I ran one engine
(using this return technique) over 2000 Hrs without any problems. I've now
run a second
engine 395 Hrs with no issues....
Assuming the return oil is more acidic (which I wouldn't know until I test
it), what does
that really mean relative to engine performance or life??????
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
395 Hrs
Second Offender!
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters < lwalters2@cfl.rr.com
<mailto:lwalters2@cfl.rr.com?subject=Re:%20The%20engine%20breather&replyto=2
00506071337.j57DbmlB032163@mail.matronics.com> >
I don't recommend (actually strongly oppose) returning the reclaimes
junk to the crankcase. I've seen the 'output' run through a long loop
of plastic hose to contain the crud, and the hose is periodically
emptied. this is in lieu of a small jar to catch the drippings which
can also be periodically emptied. If you have access to litmus paper,
test fresh oil and the recovered oil and see just how acidic the
recovered oil is.
Linn
do not archive ..... already there somewhere!
Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <
Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com
<mailto:Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com?subject=Re:%20The%20engine%20breather
&replyto=200506071337.j57DbmlB032163@mail.matronics.com> >
>
>Rich,
>
> I put this type of oil/air separator on my RV-6A. I mounted the separator
>on the top right
>side of the firewall (so that it was higher than the engine) and ran the
oil
>return into a
>modified oil return line off of #3cyclinder. The modified return line is
>just 3/8" "T" in the
>line with a short nipple for the oil return line to attach.
>
>Fred stucklen
>RV-6A N926RV
>395 Hrs
>Second offender!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: tools and canopy cover for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Lein <pj115@journey.com>
I have a set of the titanium tie downs with ropes and canvas bag for
sale in unused condition. Anybody know what these are going for now?
I can't find my records for this particular purchase.
Paul Lein
1555 South Brinton Road
Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628
Tel. 989 644-2451
Fax 989 644-6098
pj115@journey.com
"If you can blame people getting shot on guns, then I can blame
misspelled words on my pencil."
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: tools and canopy cover for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
The price for the titanium Ti-down set is $80.00 (plus $5 shipping) part #5165-3
(3 five coil, 5/16" Ti-downs, a cheater bar and a cleanup/re-polish pad).
The "Kit" (recommended) is $10 more ($90.00) (plus $5 shipping) (kits consist of
the "set", plus three 5/16" high quality 8' ropes, and a storage bag).
See http://www.airtimemfg.com/
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Lein
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: tools and canopy cover for sale
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Lein <pj115@journey.com>
I have a set of the titanium tie downs with ropes and canvas bag for
sale in unused condition. Anybody know what these are going for now?
I can't find my records for this particular purchase.
Paul Lein
1555 South Brinton Road
Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858-9628
Tel. 989 644-2451
Fax 989 644-6098
pj115@journey.com
"If you can blame people getting shot on guns, then I can blame
misspelled words on my pencil."
Message 12
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| Subject: | Filter Bypass Door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Yes, we are talking the same door, but I also made reference to the Carb
Heat flap/door on the top
of the air box. On my air box, there is no opening between the bottom of the
air filter, through the
fiberglass air box shell, into the lower cowl area. Instead, all filter
bypass air comes from within
the airbox.
The filter bypass door is located on an oval shaped plate on the bottom of
the air filter. It opens
upward towards the carburetor.
Since ALL carb air - filter bypassed or not - comes through the airbox,
the normal alternate air
(Carb heat) can still be used when needed to eliminate carb ice.
If the air filter bypass air is sourced from the lower cowl, then the carb
heat function is lost if the
bypass is open. This could be a dangerous situation while flying in outside
air conditions that
could allow carb ice to form, as the lower cowl air temps are not high
enough. (I think that
somewhere in Part 23 of the FAR's it states that Alternate Air should be
capable of a 20*C
rise above ambient.) If this filter bypass door opened, for a filter that
was plugged with snow,
having an additional carb ice situation is very definite possibility.
I know from my own experiences flying RV-6's ( 2400+ Hrs, and LOTs of
IFR) that using
Alternate air that is only sourced from the lower cowl, will eventually
result in a carb ice
situation. (Been there, done that). I currently have a home made alternate
air muff the
encompasses the Vetterman exhaust crossover pipes with a muff. To increase
the alternate
air temp rise above ambient, I've added additional heat exchange techniques
(.032 stainless safety wire wound on a dowel with a drill, to make a spring
that can be
wound around, and secured to, the exhaust pipes). This feeds into the airbox
using
Van's standard flap technique....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
395 Hrs
Second Offender (2008 Hrs)!
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <
<mailto:flyrv6@bryantechnology.com?subject=Re:%20RE:%20Filter%20Bypass%20Doo
r&replyto=200506071503.j57F3fwW012366@mail.matronics.com>
flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
I might not be understanding this correctly, but are we talking about the
same door? The carb heat door on my 6 is mounted in the top (metal) plate
of the carb air box. The magnetic door in the bottom is for emergency in
case of air flow stoppage in the filter. It is mounted in fiberglass. The
bottom magnetic door is for emergency. If it opens to allow unfiltered,
unheated air in, the alternative was engine stopage. Seems like a
reasonable trade off.
Has van's changed the design of this? Curious
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR
Subject: RE: Filter Bypass Door
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred
<mailto:Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com?subject=Re:%20RE:%20Filter%20Bypass%20Door
&replyto=200506071503.j57F3fwW012366@mail.matronics.com>
Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Yep, I missed that. I must have installed the door differently than what
Van's specs now as it's not mounted in fiberglass.... Interesting....
The other issue I have with the door opening up into the lower cowl is
that it bypasses any Carb heat that comes off the exhaust muff (if you have
that). I've found in past testing that the heated air in the lower cowl is
not sufficient to prevent carb ice, especially in IFR conditions. My filter
bypass door always takes air from the air box, not the lower cowl, always
allowing for unfiltered carb heated air to be available......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
395 Hrs
Second Offender!
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
"Would that...?" Do tell: how can truth endure for less than eternity?
So the most enduring story must necessarily be true, eh, Gary?
These things seem to bother you just enough to bring you out of the digital woodwork
at random intervals, swinging blindly at people's sig lines and such. Interesting
:-)
-Stormy
by all means, archive :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon AOA
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 6/6/2005 7:48:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dan@familybrown.org writes:
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
-- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
==================================
Ahh, but still just another story nevertheless, enduring though it may be.
Would that the truth could be so enduring.
Do not archive
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 752hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Besides being waaaaay off topic, could someone put a bullet in this
thread! It's turning into the Energizer Bunny, and not in a warm and
fuzzy kinda way. ;-)
Michael
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
sportav8r@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon AOA
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
"Would that...?" Do tell: how can truth endure for less than eternity?
So the most enduring story must necessarily be true, eh, Gary?
These things seem to bother you just enough to bring you out of the
digital woodwork at random intervals, swinging blindly at people's sig
lines and such. Interesting :-)
-Stormy
by all means, archive :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon AOA
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 6/6/2005 7:48:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dan@familybrown.org writes:
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
-- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
==================================
Ahh, but still just another story nevertheless, enduring though it may
be.
Would that the truth could be so enduring.
Do not archive
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 752hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 15
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| Subject: | RV fuel discount @ KAAT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Todd Ehlinger (RV-6A) mentioned that I should forward this info along. Any
RV fueling up at Alturas Muni (KAAT) gets 20 cents off per gallon. Might
make a good fuel stop on the way to/from Homecoming...
http://www.airnav.com/airport/AAT
I spoke to Tom at Alturas Aero and he confirmed it. He said if he's not
around when you're fueling, tell his wife or son that Tom said this is
valid.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
The "normal/standard" flare of a plumbing tool is 45 degrees. AN fittings
are "aviation/racing" flare and are 37 degrees. They are NOT
interchangeable. Have never seen a 37 degree flaring tool or fittings at
Lowes, Home Deport, Ace, etc. I was only a plumbing/air conditioning
contractor for 25 years & have not been in every hardware store in the
country. HOWEVER if the flaring tool does not specifically state it's
aviation, AN, 37 degree it probably is not. Also have not seen 37 degree
"cheapo" flaring tools. Lots of low costs 45 degree units. In this case
"Ya'll get what you pay for". Remember when you bend tubing you harden it.
The outside of the bend will create a "hard" spot. Since most tubing is
shipped in a coil, plan ahead and do not straighten out tubing before
bending. We have & used tubing benders but most of the tubing on N561FS was
bent bare handed by me, hey with 25+ years experience ya do get pretty good
with your hands. This is another place where you DO NOT assemble
fittings/tubing under any stress. Bend it to perfectly fit. KABONG 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Check the flare. I think it will be the wrong deg. Flare. I can't
> remember the flare deg but 1 is 37 deg and one is 45 deg and they are
> not interchangeable. For instance I have a flare tool for automotive
> flares for brake lines and it will not work for aviation. Randy
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Tony <afmeroth@yahoo.com>
Anyone here inc heyenne wyoming that would mind me
looking at their projects? I am still on the fence
about which kit to do, although I have it narrowed
down and am just trying to gain some experience ins
eeingone of these planes go together. I can do menial
tasks and labor and beer fetching. -Tony 307 631 9097
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
Hi All,
I've modified a W&B calculator which graphically and numerically
displays the W&B information of your aircraft based upon the Max Gross
weight and Nose/Tail & Main Gear weights. It also calculates your W&B
at landing depending upon the amount of fuel used. Fairly handy. There
is one for the RV-7A (my choice) and the RV-7 (Dan's choice).
It will also indicate if you are Over Gross, Outside/Inside Utility
Category Limits, Outside/Inside Aerobatics Category Limits, and if
you have more than 100 loaded in baggage as well.
It's fun to check out "what if" scenarios.
DISCLAIMER: This is not to be used for flight. You as the pilot are
solely responsible for calculating your own W&B information. Don't
rely on *anything* I say or build for safety of flight. I mean it.
Let me know if you have any problems with the spreadsheet. Feel free
to download it and modify it for your needs. I have used Van's
numbers for all moment arms.
http://rv7-a.com/tools/RV-7A-Weight-Balance.xls
http://rv7-a.com/tools/RV-7-Weight-Balance.xls
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Burns" <burnsm@cox.net>
Walter,
Your W&B calculator is great!
Can you (or someone) post some (average?) main and nose gear weights?
Thanks,
Mark Burns
RV-7A EMP, Wings due in a few weeks.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Subject: RV-List: W&B calculator
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
Hi All,
I've modified a W&B calculator which graphically and numerically
displays the W&B information of your aircraft based upon the Max Gross
weight and Nose/Tail & Main Gear weights. It also calculates your W&B
at landing depending upon the amount of fuel used. Fairly handy. There
is one for the RV-7A (my choice) and the RV-7 (Dan's choice).
It will also indicate if you are Over Gross, Outside/Inside Utility
Category Limits, Outside/Inside Aerobatics Category Limits, and if
you have more than 100 loaded in baggage as well.
It's fun to check out "what if" scenarios.
DISCLAIMER: This is not to be used for flight. You as the pilot are
solely responsible for calculating your own W&B information. Don't
rely on *anything* I say or build for safety of flight. I mean it.
Let me know if you have any problems with the spreadsheet. Feel free
to download it and modify it for your needs. I have used Van's
numbers for all moment arms.
http://rv7-a.com/tools/RV-7A-Weight-Balance.xls
http://rv7-a.com/tools/RV-7-Weight-Balance.xls
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: W&B calculator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 06/07 9:08, Mark Burns wrote:
> Can you (or someone) post some (average?) main and nose gear weights?
Mine came out to 294 lbs or 26.2% of the total weight. Unfortunately,
I don't have any other weights to compare it too.
Perhaps some other nose dragger folks will post that information for you.
Mine is a bit light due to the Whirlwind 200RV prop and very light
EFIS panel. Some of it is countered by the Ram Air and associated
fiberglass work. I'm guessing my nose gear weight to be about 10-15
pounds less than the average nose dragger with a standard config.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: The engine breather |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
linn walters wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>I don't recommend (actually strongly oppose) returning the reclaimes
>junk to the crankcase. I've seen the 'output' run through a long loop
>of plastic hose to contain the crud, and the hose is periodically
>emptied. this is in lieu of a small jar to catch the drippings which
>can also be periodically emptied. If you have access to litmus paper,
>test fresh oil and the recovered oil and see just how acidic the
>recovered oil is.
>Linn
>
>do not archive ..... already there somewhere!
>
This is why I read hundreds of emails every day. Occasionally I see
something I haven't seen before, & checking for acidity of the blowby
oil is something I've never thought of.
Now, to play devil's advocate. Have you ever tested the blowby oil &
then immediately tested the crankcase oil? I'm curious about how much
difference there would be.
On the related subject of accumulated water: has anyone proven that the
accumulated water is actually coming out of the engine & not being drawn
into the catch can/tube out of the surrounding air as the system cools?
Charlie
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: The engine breather |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Charlie England wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
>linn walters wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>>
>>I don't recommend (actually strongly oppose) returning the reclaimes
>>junk to the crankcase. I've seen the 'output' run through a long loop
>>of plastic hose to contain the crud, and the hose is periodically
>>emptied. this is in lieu of a small jar to catch the drippings which
>>can also be periodically emptied. If you have access to litmus paper,
>>test fresh oil and the recovered oil and see just how acidic the
>>recovered oil is.
>>Linn
>>
>>do not archive ..... already there somewhere!
>>
>>
>>
>
>This is why I read hundreds of emails every day. Occasionally I see
>something I haven't seen before, & checking for acidity of the blowby
>oil is something I've never thought of.
>
>Now, to play devil's advocate. Have you ever tested the blowby oil &
>then immediately tested the crankcase oil?
>
Yes
> I'm curious about how much difference there would be.
>
This has been a while, so memory may not be the best data point :-) . I
think the recovered oil was less acidic than the crankcase oil which
came off the dipstick. This is a subjective test since we're talking
about shades of change of the paper color.
>On the related subject of accumulated water: has anyone proven that the
>accumulated water is actually coming out of the engine & not being drawn
>into the catch can/tube out of the surrounding air as the system cools?
>
The acid and water are natural by products of burning fossil fuels.
I've not tried to prove that ..... I'm relying on information from
others that should know. I tend not to try to re-invent the wheel, and
I'm no chemist. I have, however seen the damage that moisture and acid
can do to the insides of an engine. Not a pretty sight. Just as a data
point, the acid test I referred to was done on a Cherokee with a
comercially available separator (which name escapes me at the moment
.... the memory thingy) and the recovered oil had a slightly milky
color. The engine was run for about 1/2 to 3/4 hour prior to the litmus
test. However, my buddy's Glastar with homemade separator has a loop of
clear tubing to catch the oil ..... and it looks like dirty oil. Maybe
somebody with a separator can do some testing.
Linn
do not archive
>
>Charlie
>
>
>
>
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