Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:00 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 04:26 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
3. 05:34 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (Richard McBride)
4. 05:49 AM - Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator (LARRY ADAMSON)
5. 07:14 AM - Prime platenuts? (MLWynn@aol.com)
6. 07:20 AM - Re: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends (DAVID REEL)
7. 07:32 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (Jeff Dowling)
8. 08:46 AM - Engine Start-up (Vincent Welch)
9. 08:46 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (JhnstnIII@aol.com)
10. 10:09 AM - Trim Painting (Ron Schreck)
11. 10:09 AM - Re: Memory Card GX-50 (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
12. 10:59 AM - Re: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends (HCRV6@aol.com)
13. 12:02 PM - Re: Trim Painting (Jim Jewell)
14. 04:16 PM - Re: Trim Painting (Kyle Boatright)
15. 05:56 PM - Safetying AFP Split Ring - Follow up (Duane Bentley)
16. 08:27 PM - Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator (smoothweasel@juno.com)
17. 11:17 PM - West systems epoxy (sarg314)
18. 11:36 PM - Re: West systems epoxy (Bruce Gray)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternate Static Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Mark I have a great solution for you. Check message post number 116732.
Less than $10 solution and is simple, highly effective, and has proven
to me to work. If you were ever into r/c, you probably have the parts
needed laying around. I have installed this on 2 RV's.
Enjoy,
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor
Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
Listers,
Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high
and
low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but
they're
'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where
you
can pull the big red knob.
Thanks for anybody's help!
Mark.
www.4sierratango.com
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternate Static Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Mark,
I took the liberty to post a picture of the solution for you here:
Enjoy,
Mike
http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/altstatic.jpg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart,
Michael (ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
Mark I have a great solution for you. Check message post number 116732.
Less than $10 solution and is simple, highly effective, and has proven
to me to work. If you were ever into r/c, you probably have the parts
needed laying around. I have installed this on 2 RV's.
Enjoy,
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor
Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
Listers,
Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high
and
low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but
they're
'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where
you
can pull the big red knob.
Thanks for anybody's help!
Mark.
www.4sierratango.com
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternate Static Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McBride" <rickrv8@msn.com>
I picked up a used Cessna alternate static valve from Wentworth Salvage
while at OSH one year for about $15. I put in O rings and it works just
fine.
Rick McBride
>From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve
>Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 22:44:37 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and
>low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but
>they're
>'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you
>can pull the big red knob.
>
>Thanks for anybody's help!
>
>Mark.
>www.4sierratango.com
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator
If it is sold, I also have a 2001 (purchased new) RC Allen TSO'd turn coordinator
with connector for sale.
11-30 volt with 28v. bezel light. Was installed in panel & power applied a few
times, but no flight time.
Replaced with an EZ pilot A/P that required the space.
Larry Adamson
rvhi03@msn.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" jayeandscott@telus.net
A long shot for sure, but is it sold?
Mine just crapped out from the night in the salt mud....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Prime platenuts? |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
I am about to assemble my rudder. The large nutplates that carry the rod
ends look to be made of a malleable steel. Should they primed? If so, how do
you prep the surface?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
This has probably been covered, but heres my take:
1. Do you put the fold right in the crotch of the brake or a little ways out?
My bend is smooth and pretty consistent but I was wondering about the radius
of the bend and how you control it. The instructions say that the radius
is
called out on the plans. Must be very fine print, because I could not find
it.
I put a 1/8" diameter rod in the bend to prevent sharp creases and control the
radius of the bend. When you do this, you need a brake that has a 1/8" gap between
surfaces when it is fully closed. Otherwise, you will have to move the
work way out from the hinge and the bending effort required will go up dramatically.
2. I did not bend the skin to the point that it closes on the spar with no
tension. Should I bend some more until it just sits at spar width? Right
now
it pulls down easily and with everything clecoed together, it looks pretty
straight.
I aimed for resting on the spar. The goal is a flat control surface but the bigger
offender here can come when you form the leading edge. It's important to
support from the spar aft on a flat surface during the forming in such a way
that there's no deformation. I clamped my rudder to a table with a flat board.
3. When it is time to install the rod-ends that make the hinge, you put on
a
jam nut and then screw them into the platenut to get the correct length.
The
jam nut goes down to keep it from moving. How tight do you tighten the jam
nut? My torque wrench is a socket and so a am guessing you can't use an
actual
torque specification. Thoughts?
The jam nut is half thickness so use half the normal torque value for the thread.
AC43-13 table 7-1 has exact values on page 7-9. You can get pretty close
by tightening a nut with the torque wrench in an accessable place like your shop
bench vise. Then, using the setup you will use to tighten the jam nut, get
the correct 'feel' by tightening the nut til it just turns. Do this a few times
then go do the rudder and tighten the jam nut. If you're real anal, you can
tighten one at the bench, then check it with the torque wrench until you can
get it right. But note from the table that there's a big range of acceptable
limits so it won't hurt to be some tighter than the minimum in the table. Of
course, there's no point doing this until you've mounted the rudder to the vertical
stabilizer to get the position you want.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Static Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
If you want to go the less expensive route, you can buy a valve from Parker.
Its a little plastic valve with push-in fittings. Its cheap and I doubt
I'll ever need it. I mounted it under my panel in the left corner where I
can easily reach it.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and
> low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but
> they're
> 'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you
> can pull the big red knob.
>
> Thanks for anybody's help!
>
> Mark.
> www.4sierratango.com
>
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
A big thanks to all of you guys for your input, couldn't have done it
without your help.
We found the problem yesterday and N327W was purring like a kitten. It
seems that there was a bad connection at one of the BNC connectors causing
only two cylinders to fire on the EI. Made up a new connection, put the
timing light on it for a final tweeking AND she sounds like a real airplane
now!!! :)
Thanks again guys for all of your tips.
Vince
So close I can taste it now.
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Static Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: JhnstnIII@aol.com
Listers,
Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and
low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but they're
'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you
can pull the big red knob.
Thanks for anybody's help!
Mark.
www.4sierratango.com
Mark--We used a fuel valve from Aircraft Spruce--page 160, part no. FFV04,
and mounted it on our panel. It has passed a static system check without
leaking. --LeRoy Johnston and Dave White, Ohio, RV-6 finishing.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@alltel.net>
Clear DayListers,
I would like to lay out some of the details of my trim paint scheme on top of the
silver base coat that is already finished. What sort of marker do the pro's
use to lay out the details prior to masking? I know grease pencil is out.
What about chalk or soapstone?
Ron "up to my eyeballs in Imron" Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Memory Card GX-50 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
>Cant you put the card in a PCMCIA slot? I heard you can find free downloads
>that way.
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>200 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy@verizon.net>
>To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Memory Card GX-50
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy@verizon.net>
>>
>>Anyone know of a USB memory card reader/writer that will work with the
>>flash card in a Garmin (aka. Apollo) GX-60? Jeppesen has one but they
>>want a 'whopping $150 plus shipping" for what should be a $10 item....
>>I'm having trouble swallowing that kind of expense.
>>
>>Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've seen 12-in-1 USB flash card
>>reader/writers advertized for about $10 bucks on E-Bay, but don't know if
>>they are compatible with the Jeppesen databases/GX-50 flash cards.
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>Jack Lockamy
>>Camarillo, CA
>>RV-7A flying (N174JL)
>>www.jacklockamy.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
tell us more
Phil in Illinois
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Michael: The way I did it was to bend the skin until it closed on the
ribs with no tension. That way you will avoid the bulging skin at the trailing
edge that you sometimes see. As far as torquing the jam nuts on the rod end
bearings, You'll kinda have to use your head, i.e. tight but don't strip the
nut. BTW, I had to adjust mine quite a bit from the plans to get full rudder
travel without interference with the vertical stab skin overhang.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton CA
RV6, N16CX, 90 hours since 11-17-04
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Trim Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Ron,
Thin masking tape works well. The Vinyl stuff does not leave residue.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Trim Painting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@alltel.net>
>
> Clear DayListers,
>
> I would like to lay out some of the details of my trim paint scheme on top
> of the silver base coat that is already finished. What sort of marker do
> the pro's use to lay out the details prior to masking? I know grease
> pencil is out. What about chalk or soapstone?
>
> Ron "up to my eyeballs in Imron" Schreck
> RV-8
> Gold Hill Airpark, NC
>
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Trim Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
The pro's I've seen do it by ruler and eyeball. Kind of scary.
Personally, I used a multi step process:
1) Designed the patterns in autocad.
2) Printed to actual size.
3) Taped the printouts to a piece of vinyl masking material.
4) Cut along the dotted line.
5) Applied mask to airplane.
6) shot paint.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Trim Painting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@alltel.net>
>
> Clear DayListers,
>
> I would like to lay out some of the details of my trim paint scheme on top
> of the silver base coat that is already finished. What sort of marker do
> the pro's use to lay out the details prior to masking? I know grease
> pencil is out. What about chalk or soapstone?
>
> Ron "up to my eyeballs in Imron" Schreck
> RV-8
> Gold Hill Airpark, NC
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Safetying AFP Split Ring - Follow up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
I=92m late getting to e-mail, but thought I would add a note of experience
to this string. I have a RV6 with the AFP Fuel Injection system; been
flying it for over a year. Make sure you follow the one line at the end
of the AFP installation instructions that suggests adding thread lock to
the split ring Allen head bolt. It can (will) come loose otherwise.
I was at 4000 feet with a first time flyer / passenger. I probably had
around 60 - 70 hours on the plane at the time. I had found the AFP box
slipped down on the induction tube, by about 1/16=94 from the fully
installed position at an inspection some months before, but other than
loosening and reinstalling, did not think anything further. Back at
4000 ft - the engine coughed, lost power, and while I was changing fuel
tanks, turning the fuel pump on and pushing up mixture and prop, partial
power returned. My passenger asked if this response was normal, and I
said there was something I needed to investigate. He also decided
simultaneously that he needed to go to the bathroom.
Descent to the field was normal, with what seemed like an unusually rich
mixture setting that I leaned out. With less airspeed than normal for
the power setting on downwind and final, I landed normally. After
landing, I needed to lean the mixture to overcome the roughness while I
taxied in.
While climbing under the cowl to remove the aft cowl pins, I found the
AFP box sitting on the cowl bottom, on top of the exhaust pipes. That
explained the blockage to the cowl vent air, and higher oil temp than
normal after the event. After pulling the cowling, I found the AFP
airbox to be still slightly tight to the induction fitting when I
re-checked installation, but not so tight that it couldn=92t vibrate off,
apparently. The box must have dropped down, momentarily blocker the
intake, and then onto the cowl floor. That left a pretty poor induction
system, hence too much fuel to air.
I cleaned all the AFP FAB box and associated parts. Nothing was
missing. I inspected both mating surfaces and reinstalled the unit.
The Van=92s Service Bulletin for the bottom flapper door had also worked.
I could see the imprint of the door edge of the split ring where it
slapped open when the intake was off center and blocked. I torqued all
the bolts and put thread lock on the =BC=94 split ring bolt, let it set up a
cure, and then tried to mechanically get it to come off, without
breaking anything. It seemed tight and unmovable. I rechecked after
the next several flights.
That was 4 =96 6 months ago, I=92ve had the cowl off several times since for
inspection, and the AFP has not moved.
Duane Bentley
RV6 N515DB
West Chester, OH
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Yeh sorry......its sold
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | West systems epoxy |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
A friend who is building a Varieze told me that he has seen West Systems
epoxy go soft sitting in the arizona sun. Admittedly this was in model
planes where the lay-ups are very thin. I've used West Systems for some
fairings so far. I had the impression a lot of builders use it.
Has any one who has used it on a plane that's been flying for a while
noticed any problems with it softening in hot weather?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Cowling.
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | West systems epoxy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
All resin systems (vinylester or epoxy) have what's called a T-sub-g
(Tg) value. This is a temperature at which, after full cure, they start
to soften. You should check the manufactures specification sheet, it
will give this Tg temperature. This is also the major reason that most
all glass planes are painted white.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|