---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 06/13/05: 18 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:00 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 2. 04:26 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 3. 05:34 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (Richard McBride) 4. 05:49 AM - Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator (LARRY ADAMSON) 5. 07:14 AM - Prime platenuts? (MLWynn@aol.com) 6. 07:20 AM - Re: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends (DAVID REEL) 7. 07:32 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (Jeff Dowling) 8. 08:46 AM - Engine Start-up (Vincent Welch) 9. 08:46 AM - Re: Alternate Static Valve (JhnstnIII@aol.com) 10. 10:09 AM - Trim Painting (Ron Schreck) 11. 10:09 AM - Re: Memory Card GX-50 (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club) 12. 10:59 AM - Re: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends (HCRV6@aol.com) 13. 12:02 PM - Re: Trim Painting (Jim Jewell) 14. 04:16 PM - Re: Trim Painting (Kyle Boatright) 15. 05:56 PM - Safetying AFP Split Ring - Follow up (Duane Bentley) 16. 08:27 PM - Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator (smoothweasel@juno.com) 17. 11:17 PM - West systems epoxy (sarg314) 18. 11:36 PM - Re: West systems epoxy (Bruce Gray) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:00:42 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" Mark I have a great solution for you. Check message post number 116732. Less than $10 solution and is simple, highly effective, and has proven to me to work. If you were ever into r/c, you probably have the parts needed laying around. I have installed this on 2 RV's. Enjoy, Mike Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" Listers, Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but they're 'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you can pull the big red knob. Thanks for anybody's help! Mark. www.4sierratango.com ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:26:12 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" Mark, I took the liberty to post a picture of the solution for you here: Enjoy, Mike http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/altstatic.jpg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" Mark I have a great solution for you. Check message post number 116732. Less than $10 solution and is simple, highly effective, and has proven to me to work. If you were ever into r/c, you probably have the parts needed laying around. I have installed this on 2 RV's. Enjoy, Mike Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" Listers, Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but they're 'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you can pull the big red knob. Thanks for anybody's help! Mark. www.4sierratango.com ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:34:42 AM PST US From: "Richard McBride" Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McBride" I picked up a used Cessna alternate static valve from Wentworth Salvage while at OSH one year for about $15. I put in O rings and it works just fine. Rick McBride >From: "Mark Taylor" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve >Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 22:44:37 -0400 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" > >Listers, > >Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and >low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but >they're >'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you >can pull the big red knob. > >Thanks for anybody's help! > >Mark. >www.4sierratango.com > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:49:49 AM PST US From: "LARRY ADAMSON" Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator --> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Jackson Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator If it is sold, I also have a 2001 (purchased new) RC Allen TSO'd turn coordinator with connector for sale. 11-30 volt with 28v. bezel light. Was installed in panel & power applied a few times, but no flight time. Replaced with an EZ pilot A/P that required the space. Larry Adamson rvhi03@msn.com --> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" jayeandscott@telus.net A long shot for sure, but is it sold? Mine just crapped out from the night in the salt mud.... Scott in Vancouver ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:14:52 AM PST US From: MLWynn@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Prime platenuts? --> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com Hi all, I am about to assemble my rudder. The large nutplates that carry the rod ends look to be made of a malleable steel. Should they primed? If so, how do you prep the surface? Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8, Empennage San Ramon, California ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:20:24 AM PST US From: "DAVID REEL" Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" This has probably been covered, but heres my take: 1. Do you put the fold right in the crotch of the brake or a little ways out? My bend is smooth and pretty consistent but I was wondering about the radius of the bend and how you control it. The instructions say that the radius is called out on the plans. Must be very fine print, because I could not find it. I put a 1/8" diameter rod in the bend to prevent sharp creases and control the radius of the bend. When you do this, you need a brake that has a 1/8" gap between surfaces when it is fully closed. Otherwise, you will have to move the work way out from the hinge and the bending effort required will go up dramatically. 2. I did not bend the skin to the point that it closes on the spar with no tension. Should I bend some more until it just sits at spar width? Right now it pulls down easily and with everything clecoed together, it looks pretty straight. I aimed for resting on the spar. The goal is a flat control surface but the bigger offender here can come when you form the leading edge. It's important to support from the spar aft on a flat surface during the forming in such a way that there's no deformation. I clamped my rudder to a table with a flat board. 3. When it is time to install the rod-ends that make the hinge, you put on a jam nut and then screw them into the platenut to get the correct length. The jam nut goes down to keep it from moving. How tight do you tighten the jam nut? My torque wrench is a socket and so a am guessing you can't use an actual torque specification. Thoughts? The jam nut is half thickness so use half the normal torque value for the thread. AC43-13 table 7-1 has exact values on page 7-9. You can get pretty close by tightening a nut with the torque wrench in an accessable place like your shop bench vise. Then, using the setup you will use to tighten the jam nut, get the correct 'feel' by tightening the nut til it just turns. Do this a few times then go do the rudder and tighten the jam nut. If you're real anal, you can tighten one at the bench, then check it with the torque wrench until you can get it right. But note from the table that there's a big range of acceptable limits so it won't hurt to be some tighter than the minimum in the table. Of course, there's no point doing this until you've mounted the rudder to the vertical stabilizer to get the position you want. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:32:56 AM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" If you want to go the less expensive route, you can buy a valve from Parker. Its a little plastic valve with push-in fittings. Its cheap and I doubt I'll ever need it. I mounted it under my panel in the left corner where I can easily reach it. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 200 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Taylor" Subject: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" > > Listers, > > Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and > low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but > they're > 'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you > can pull the big red knob. > > Thanks for anybody's help! > > Mark. > www.4sierratango.com > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:46:26 AM PST US From: "Vincent Welch" Subject: RV-List: Engine Start-up --> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" A big thanks to all of you guys for your input, couldn't have done it without your help. We found the problem yesterday and N327W was purring like a kitten. It seems that there was a bad connection at one of the BNC connectors causing only two cylinders to fire on the EI. Made up a new connection, put the timing light on it for a final tweeking AND she sounds like a real airplane now!!! :) Thanks again guys for all of your tips. Vince So close I can taste it now. ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:46:26 AM PST US From: JhnstnIII@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Static Valve --> RV-List message posted by: JhnstnIII@aol.com Listers, Does anybody know where I can get me one off these? I've searched high and low on the web and found not a lot. There was one hit to Safair, but they're 'coming soon'. I'd like something like the type found in Cessnas where you can pull the big red knob. Thanks for anybody's help! Mark. www.4sierratango.com Mark--We used a fuel valve from Aircraft Spruce--page 160, part no. FFV04, and mounted it on our panel. It has passed a static system check without leaking. --LeRoy Johnston and Dave White, Ohio, RV-6 finishing. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:09:26 AM PST US From: "Ron Schreck" Subject: RV-List: Trim Painting --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" Clear DayListers, I would like to lay out some of the details of my trim paint scheme on top of the silver base coat that is already finished. What sort of marker do the pro's use to lay out the details prior to masking? I know grease pencil is out. What about chalk or soapstone? Ron "up to my eyeballs in Imron" Schreck RV-8 Gold Hill Airpark, NC ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:09:26 AM PST US From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" Subject: Re: RV-List: Memory Card GX-50 --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" Jeff Dowling wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" > >Cant you put the card in a PCMCIA slot? I heard you can find free downloads >that way. > >Shemp/Jeff Dowling >RV-6A, N915JD >200 hours >Chicago/Louisville > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "jacklockamy" >To: "RV List" >Subject: RV-List: Memory Card GX-50 > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "jacklockamy" >> >>Anyone know of a USB memory card reader/writer that will work with the >>flash card in a Garmin (aka. Apollo) GX-60? Jeppesen has one but they >>want a 'whopping $150 plus shipping" for what should be a $10 item.... >>I'm having trouble swallowing that kind of expense. >> >>Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've seen 12-in-1 USB flash card >>reader/writers advertized for about $10 bucks on E-Bay, but don't know if >>they are compatible with the Jeppesen databases/GX-50 flash cards. >> >>Thanks in advance, >>Jack Lockamy >>Camarillo, CA >>RV-7A flying (N174JL) >>www.jacklockamy.com >> >> >> > > > > tell us more Phil in Illinois ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 10:59:50 AM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Questions: bending the skin and torquing the rod ends --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com Michael: The way I did it was to bend the skin until it closed on the ribs with no tension. That way you will avoid the bulging skin at the trailing edge that you sometimes see. As far as torquing the jam nuts on the rod end bearings, You'll kinda have to use your head, i.e. tight but don't strip the nut. BTW, I had to adjust mine quite a bit from the plans to get full rudder travel without interference with the vertical stab skin overhang. Harry Crosby Pleasanton CA RV6, N16CX, 90 hours since 11-17-04 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:02:41 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Trim Painting --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Ron, Thin masking tape works well. The Vinyl stuff does not leave residue. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Schreck" Subject: RV-List: Trim Painting > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" > > Clear DayListers, > > I would like to lay out some of the details of my trim paint scheme on top > of the silver base coat that is already finished. What sort of marker do > the pro's use to lay out the details prior to masking? I know grease > pencil is out. What about chalk or soapstone? > > Ron "up to my eyeballs in Imron" Schreck > RV-8 > Gold Hill Airpark, NC > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 04:16:50 PM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: Re: RV-List: Trim Painting --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" The pro's I've seen do it by ruler and eyeball. Kind of scary. Personally, I used a multi step process: 1) Designed the patterns in autocad. 2) Printed to actual size. 3) Taped the printouts to a piece of vinyl masking material. 4) Cut along the dotted line. 5) Applied mask to airplane. 6) shot paint. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Schreck" Subject: RV-List: Trim Painting > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" > > Clear DayListers, > > I would like to lay out some of the details of my trim paint scheme on top > of the silver base coat that is already finished. What sort of marker do > the pro's use to lay out the details prior to masking? I know grease > pencil is out. What about chalk or soapstone? > > Ron "up to my eyeballs in Imron" Schreck > RV-8 > Gold Hill Airpark, NC > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 05:56:11 PM PST US From: "Duane Bentley" Subject: RV-List: Safetying AFP Split Ring - Follow up --> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" I=92m late getting to e-mail, but thought I would add a note of experience to this string. I have a RV6 with the AFP Fuel Injection system; been flying it for over a year. Make sure you follow the one line at the end of the AFP installation instructions that suggests adding thread lock to the split ring Allen head bolt. It can (will) come loose otherwise. I was at 4000 feet with a first time flyer / passenger. I probably had around 60 - 70 hours on the plane at the time. I had found the AFP box slipped down on the induction tube, by about 1/16=94 from the fully installed position at an inspection some months before, but other than loosening and reinstalling, did not think anything further. Back at 4000 ft - the engine coughed, lost power, and while I was changing fuel tanks, turning the fuel pump on and pushing up mixture and prop, partial power returned. My passenger asked if this response was normal, and I said there was something I needed to investigate. He also decided simultaneously that he needed to go to the bathroom. Descent to the field was normal, with what seemed like an unusually rich mixture setting that I leaned out. With less airspeed than normal for the power setting on downwind and final, I landed normally. After landing, I needed to lean the mixture to overcome the roughness while I taxied in. While climbing under the cowl to remove the aft cowl pins, I found the AFP box sitting on the cowl bottom, on top of the exhaust pipes. That explained the blockage to the cowl vent air, and higher oil temp than normal after the event. After pulling the cowling, I found the AFP airbox to be still slightly tight to the induction fitting when I re-checked installation, but not so tight that it couldn=92t vibrate off, apparently. The box must have dropped down, momentarily blocker the intake, and then onto the cowl floor. That left a pretty poor induction system, hence too much fuel to air. I cleaned all the AFP FAB box and associated parts. Nothing was missing. I inspected both mating surfaces and reinstalled the unit. The Van=92s Service Bulletin for the bottom flapper door had also worked. I could see the imprint of the door edge of the split ring where it slapped open when the intake was off center and blocked. I torqued all the bolts and put thread lock on the =BC=94 split ring bolt, let it set up a cure, and then tried to mechanically get it to come off, without breaking anything. It seemed tight and unmovable. I rechecked after the next several flights. That was 4 =96 6 months ago, I=92ve had the cowl off several times since for inspection, and the AFP has not moved. Duane Bentley RV6 N515DB West Chester, OH ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:27:55 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator From: smoothweasel@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com Yeh sorry......its sold ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 11:17:06 PM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: RV-List: West systems epoxy --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 A friend who is building a Varieze told me that he has seen West Systems epoxy go soft sitting in the arizona sun. Admittedly this was in model planes where the lay-ups are very thin. I've used West Systems for some fairings so far. I had the impression a lot of builders use it. Has any one who has used it on a plane that's been flying for a while noticed any problems with it softening in hot weather? -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Cowling. ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 11:36:13 PM PST US From: "Bruce Gray" Subject: RE: RV-List: West systems epoxy --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" All resin systems (vinylester or epoxy) have what's called a T-sub-g (Tg) value. This is a temperature at which, after full cure, they start to soften. You should check the manufactures specification sheet, it will give this Tg temperature. This is also the major reason that most all glass planes are painted white. Bruce www.glasair.org