---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 06/27/05: 44 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:40 AM - transponder check cost (Mickey Coggins) 2. 04:08 AM - Re: Brake line incident. (Steve Glasgow) 3. 04:08 AM - Air Dam #1 Cyl (John Mcmahon) 4. 04:59 AM - Re: Re: Dynon (Jeff Dowling) 5. 05:04 AM - Re: Brake line incident. (Jeff Dowling) 6. 05:10 AM - Waco, Texas; off topic (Ron Lee) 7. 05:20 AM - Re: Air Dam #1 Cyl (Jeff Dowling) 8. 05:43 AM - Re: Cost of Windshield/Window Replacement? (Rick Galati) 9. 05:48 AM - Re: Brake line incident. (John Huft) 10. 06:05 AM - Re: transponder check cost (Bob) 11. 06:14 AM - Re: Brake line incident. (Finn Lassen) 12. 07:01 AM - Re: Brake line incident. (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 13. 07:10 AM - Re: Waco, Texas; off topic (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 14. 07:16 AM - Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 15. 07:40 AM - Re: Waco, Texas; off topic (Greg Young) 16. 07:44 AM - Re: Air Dam #1 Cyl (LarryRobertHelming) 17. 08:44 AM - Re: transponder check cost (Walter Tondu) 18. 08:50 AM - 7/7A Builder's Get-Together (Bruce Anthony) 19. 09:45 AM - Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? (Jim Oke) 20. 09:52 AM - Back riveting wing skins (Tom Casey) 21. 10:02 AM - In Flight Weather (John Furey) 22. 10:19 AM - Re: Back riveting wing skins (Brian Denk) 23. 10:43 AM - Re: Brake line incident. () 24. 10:52 AM - Re: In Flight Weather (Paul Folbrecht) 25. 11:22 AM - Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? () 26. 01:29 PM - Re: Re: Brake line incident. (Mickey Coggins) 27. 01:36 PM - Re: Back riveting wing skins (Phil Birkelbach) 28. 02:09 PM - Riveting Wing Skins (John Fasching) 29. 02:20 PM - Re: Back riveting wing skins (William Gill) 30. 02:58 PM - rear spar dimple/countersink question. (David Fenstermacher) 31. 02:58 PM - Re: Back riveting wing skins (DonVS) 32. 03:40 PM - Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? (bertrv6@highstream.net) 33. 03:42 PM - Re: Back riveting wing skins (Charlie Kuss) 34. 03:53 PM - Re: Back riveting wing skins (Tom Casey) 35. 04:38 PM - Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? (Kevin Horton) 36. 04:52 PM - Re: Back riveting wing skins (rv6fly) 37. 05:34 PM - Re: Back riveting wing skins (Tom Callender) 38. 05:36 PM - Fw: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? (JOHN STARN) 39. 05:56 PM - Re: Re: Brake line incident. (Alex Peterson) 40. 06:12 PM - Re: Riveting Wing Skins (Bill Dube) 41. 07:28 PM - Re:Back riveting wing skins (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 42. 08:15 PM - RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? (Don Diehl) 43. 08:16 PM - Re: Re:Back riveting wing skins (DonVS) 44. 09:02 PM - Re: Air Dam #1 Cyl (HCRV6@AOL.COM) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:40:59 AM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: RV-List: transponder check cost --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi, Does anyone know approximately what it costs to get a transponder checked and properly calibrated? Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Canopy ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:08:16 AM PST US From: "Steve Glasgow" Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake line incident. --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" I have the grove set up also and don't feel there is enough room for a hose, especially after the pants are on. I plan to make new aluminum lines periodically, maybe every 3 years or so? Also with the lack of space between the pant when the line flexes the problem may not happen as the flexing may be stopped by the pant itself. Steve Glasgow N123SG RV-8 Cappy's Toy ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:08:16 AM PST US From: "John Mcmahon" Subject: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl --> RV-List message posted by: "John Mcmahon" For those that have been flying for awhile,a question.. I have the normal #3 cylinder hot issue.I am trying to find out the best air dam system to put on #1 cylinder.. 1 Use silver tape over leading edge of #1 cylinder fins high enough to even out #1 and#3.. 2 Build 3/4 angle type with different height plates that do not touch fins of #1 cylinder.. Seating the rings on new Aero Sport 0360 Thanks John McMahon (RV6 Flying WEEEE) ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:59:08 AM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Dynon --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" Wow, now thats a set up even Vans has to be proud of. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 200 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Duane Bentley" Subject: RV-List: Re: Dynon > --> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" > > I have about 110 hrs on my RV6, and around 10 hrs IMC with the Dynon. I > flew back from Cape Cod to Cincinnati, Ohio last month, with half of > that either between solid cloud layers or IMC. I have the STec 30 AP > which displays turn and bank plus slip along with altitude hold, a > regular analog airspeed gage, and the Rocky Mountain microencoder. My > scan includes constant cross check between the Dynon attitude and the > STec. I've not had any surprises. > > > I basically have triple redundancy on airspeed and double on altitude. > Without question, I find I have to stay current to fly IFR in this > plane, and fly a couple of 1-2 hours a month under the hood. I also > wouldn't fly IMC if the STec wasn't functioning. > > > I added the chart view function to my MX20 / GX 60 / SL30 package which > works well, although it was pricey. Make sure you have the right chart > loaded, because trying to fly and change approaches at the last minute > can be a major challenge. I also put in the WSI satellite weather into > my MX20 and find it to be absolutely great for long Xcntry in IMC. I > was telling NY center where I wanted to go and when I wanted to turn, > and found it to be right on the money working around storms. Cruising > between 8000 and 10000 feet out and back, with 170 - 175 KTAS, I had > several controllers in the North East asking to tell them again what > type equipment I was flying. After saying RV6 / G, I frequently got the > question asking how many engines it had. > > > Duane Bentley > > N515DB > > West Chester, OH > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:04:04 AM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake line incident. --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" Finishing and Finishing and...... Finishing.... sounds familiar do not archive Shemp ----- Original Message ----- From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" Subject: RV-List: Brake line incident. > --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > > > > I just had a discussion about this very thing with Mike Burlingham who's > RV-6A has been flying for about 6 years now. He had some fatigue cracking > on one side due to the line flexing and fixed it rather quickly and > inexpensively as follows: > > 1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made > for > grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread > fittings on each end. > > 2) Procure two elbows for the caliper end, one end of the elbow has female > threads to connect with the grease gun hose and the other end has male > threads that mate with the brake caliper. Checking Wicks catalog it looks > like an AN914-2D fitting would work for this, check the grease gun end > fittings for size before you order though (I haven't done this yet so I > haven't checked to see exactly what the grease gun hose fittings are size > wise). Mike mentioned something about the grease gun hose fittings being > 1/8 inch so you might need a 1/4 to 1/8 reducer like an AN912-1D to put in > the elbow that the grease gun hose fits into. > > 3) The last thing you need is a male flare fitting (aluminum tube end) to > female pipe thread adapter (that the grease gun hose fits into). Wicks > part > number 2405-4-2 looks like it would work for this (if Mikes comment on the > grease gun hose fittings being 1/8 inch are correct). > > So.....what he has done is bring the aluminum tube down the gear leg close > to the bottom end....into the flared aluminum tube fitting-to-pipe fitting > adapter for the grease gun hose... grease gun hose bridges the gap to the > caliper and goes into an adapter fitting to the caliper. > > He didn't elaborate on how he fastened the aluminum tube and adapter to > the > gear leg (and I couldn't tell from looking cause he had his wheelpants > installed when I saw the airplane) but I thought a hose clamp or something > similar maybe. Mike has done one side of his airplane and had good luck > with it so he plans to convert the other. I think I'll give it a try too, > the fatiguing aluminum tube doesn't sound like something I want on my > plane. > > Dean Psiropoulos > RV-6A N197DM > Finishing and Finishing and....Finishing!!!! > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:10:58 AM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: RV-List: Waco, Texas; off topic --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee First, go to Airnav.com http://www.airnav.com/airport/KPWG phone number for FBO is there so call them about hangars unless an individual can help. TFR source: http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/notams.html For Crawford, procedures may require flight plan and talking to ATC. Verify by talking to FSS (1-800-WXBRIEF). I strongly suggest using Flight Following. Know intercept procedures and don't repeat the DC incursion flap. http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/2001/010918intercept.html Don't do stupid stuff. With GPS there is ZERO reason to bust a TFR. Ron Lee ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:20:25 AM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" I just bent some 0.020 and pop riveted it to the baffle. Works fine. I think you can get carried away trying to adjust the size to get an "exact" match. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 200 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Mcmahon" Subject: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Mcmahon" > > For those that have been flying for awhile,a question.. > I have the normal #3 cylinder hot issue.I am trying to find > out the best air dam system to put on #1 cylinder.. > > 1 Use silver tape over leading edge of #1 cylinder > fins high enough to even out #1 and#3.. > > 2 Build 3/4 angle type with different height plates > that do not touch fins of #1 cylinder.. > > Seating the rings on new Aero Sport 0360 > Thanks > John McMahon (RV6 Flying WEEEE) > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:43:26 AM PST US From: Rick Galati Subject: RV-List: re: Cost of Windshield/Window Replacement? --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati A few years back, I discovered a rather deep scratch on the right hand inside of the windshield portion of my RV-6A slider canopy bubble. Because of the wrinkly nature of the translucent plastic "shrinkwrap" protecting the plexiglass, the scratch had gone unnoticed after the finishing kit inventory was completed and the canopy sat on the basement floor for well over a year before I got around to noticing the damage. Had I reported the defect within 30 days, I could have gotten a new one but as it was, I was told by Van's I really had only two options. The first was to polish out the deep scratch with micromesh. I did this successfully but was unhappy with the optical distortion that resulted. Option two was to order a new windshield from the vendor who supplies Van with new canopies. I contacted them (AeroPlastics?) and ordered a new one. The cost at that time was $350. I offered and subsequently sold the original windscreen for $40 but was almost embarrassed when I had to inform the seller that UPS wanted $150 to ship it in the required outsized packaging! Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 05:48:18 AM PST US From: John Huft Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake line incident. --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft I have the Grove gear legs also. I put a right angle fitting on the bottom of the gear leg, then ran the hose around the end to the brake cylinder. Has worked fine under the wheel pants. John Steve Glasgow wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" > >I have the grove set up also and don't feel there is enough room for a hose, especially after the pants are on. > >I plan to make new aluminum lines periodically, maybe every 3 years or so? Also with the lack of space between the pant when the line flexes the problem may not happen as the flexing may be stopped by the pant itself. > >Steve Glasgow >N123SG RV-8 >Cappy's Toy > > >. > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:05:15 AM PST US From: Bob Subject: Re: RV-List: transponder check cost --> RV-List message posted by: Bob >Does anyone know approximately what it costs to get a >transponder checked and properly calibrated? My guy, Randall Hash out of Bluefield WV charges $175. Make an appointment and he will meet you at the airport, takes about an hour. Bob RV6 NightFighter ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:14:30 AM PST US From: Finn Lassen Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake line incident. --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen Yes, but will they stand up to the heat? Finn Mickey Coggins wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins > > > >>>1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made for >>>grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread >>>fittings on each end. >>> >>> >>> >>I found them at Grainger: >> >>http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?search_type=keyword&QueryString=grease+gun+hose&catindx1=Hoses%2C&catindx2=Grease+Gun&xi=xi >> >>Looks like a great idea! I might have to do this for my next annual. >> >> >> > >This is a good idea. I've got the Grove gear on my 8, and the >brake "line" comes out at the very bottom of the leg. This >does not leave much room for a flexible hose. Has anyone >found a solution for this? I've got some pictures here to >help clarify what I'm talking about: > > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20050314214854320 > >I guess grease gun hose would be flexible enough to wrap around >there. > >Thanks, >Mickey > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:01:39 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake line incident. --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 6/26/05 9:10:34 AM Central Daylight Time, akroguy@hotmail.com writes: > Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made for > >grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread > >fittings on each end. >>>> Might want to consider using a real brake line, available from racing supply houses. Stainless braid & made to take the heat. I used one on my oil pressure sender, but really think it would be the ticket for the brakes as well. May even be available with male end to screw direct into caliper? See: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5313 Mark Phillips ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:10:45 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Waco, Texas; off topic From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" I live a bit north of the area and I believe the airspace is in a complete lockdown during the TFR. No in or out unless you are military. AOPA is really good about tracking when the TFR's are expected to go active, might want to check with them. Michael Sausen -10 #352 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kosta Lewis Subject: RV-List: Waco, Texas; off topic --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" Listers: Kelli and I are planning a trip to the Waco, Texas area (pronounced WAYco to those non-Texans) over the fourth of July. Yeah, I know: 100% humidity and 100 degrees doesn't sound like fun. But we are going anyway; it's a family thang. Anybody have any information on the local airports? We are planning destination as McGregor Executive, unless someone thinks somewhere else is better. Kelli's family lives in McGregor. We will be traveling RIGHT next to the Presidential TFR around Crawford and would take any advise about that, besides avoiding it all together, of course. Unless we want to fly formation with Blackhawks. Also any knowledge of hangers in the area would be appreciated. Please reply off line. Thanks Michael N232 Suzie Q mikel@dimensional.com do not archive Which reminds me: where do you find information on getting into or out of a Presidential/VIP TFR? I have looked in a lot of places and have found little. I guess he can just show up at any time and ruin your day. The sectional has a 30 mile white area around the place. Scary.............. ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:16:38 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 6/26/05 3:36:14 PM Central Daylight Time, iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com writes: > What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning > techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose > high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow > full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I > hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is > the tail tied down to...what? > >>>> I know this looks a little scary, but faced with the same problem (test pilot requirement!) it worked well. Rope tied to nose leg is tensioned a bit with a come-a-long to keep the plane held down on the ramps, which are sitting on large aluminum plates normally used for main wheels of friends C-150 tie-down spot- very stable during test run... http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5201 Mark Phillips ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:40:26 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Waco, Texas; off topic From: "Greg Young" --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" When P-49 gets expanded to the 30 mile ring there will be a NOTAM for it. Typically there is a 10 mile no-fly ring but between there and the 30 mi you can land and depart underlying airports but you'll need to be on a flight plan and have a discrete transponder code. Be careful about Waco because he arrives and departs from there. They will have smaller, short duration (couple hours) TFR's over Waco for his arrival and departure. Check with Flight Service for the details. Regards, Greg Young do not archive ________________________________ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Subject: RE: RV-List: Waco, Texas; off topic --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" I live a bit north of the area and I believe the airspace is in a complete lockdown during the TFR. No in or out unless you are military. AOPA is really good about tracking when the TFR's are expected to go active, might want to check with them. Michael Sausen -10 #352 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kosta Lewis Subject: RV-List: Waco, Texas; off topic --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" Listers: Kelli and I are planning a trip to the Waco, Texas area (pronounced WAYco to those non-Texans) over the fourth of July. Yeah, I know: 100% humidity and 100 degrees doesn't sound like fun. But we are going anyway; it's a family thang. Anybody have any information on the local airports? We are planning destination as McGregor Executive, unless someone thinks somewhere else is better. Kelli's family lives in McGregor. We will be traveling RIGHT next to the Presidential TFR around Crawford and would take any advise about that, besides avoiding it all together, of course. Unless we want to fly formation with Blackhawks. Also any knowledge of hangers in the area would be appreciated. Please reply off line. Thanks Michael N232 Suzie Q mikel@dimensional.com do not archive Which reminds me: where do you find information on getting into or out of a Presidential/VIP TFR? I have looked in a lot of places and have found little. I guess he can just show up at any time and ruin your day. The sectional has a 30 mile white area around the place. Scary.............. ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:44:26 AM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" I put mine in with nut plates under the baffle and counter sunk the screws in the dam plate. I can remove the plate and alter it to get it just right. I found an 1/8" difference in the height of the dam matters. Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's own money." Alexis de Toqueville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" > > > I just bent some 0.020 and pop riveted it to the baffle. Works fine. I > think you can get carried away trying to adjust the size to get an "exact" > match. > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > RV-6A, N915JD > 200 hours > Chicago/Louisville > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Mcmahon" > To: > Subject: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Mcmahon" >> >> For those that have been flying for awhile,a question.. >> I have the normal #3 cylinder hot issue.I am trying to find >> out the best air dam system to put on #1 cylinder.. >> >> 1 Use silver tape over leading edge of #1 cylinder >> fins high enough to even out #1 and#3.. >> >> 2 Build 3/4 angle type with different height plates >> that do not touch fins of #1 cylinder.. >> >> Seating the rings on new Aero Sport 0360 >> Thanks >> John McMahon (RV6 Flying WEEEE) >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:44:28 AM PST US From: Walter Tondu Subject: Re: RV-List: transponder check cost --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu On 06/27 9:38, Mickey Coggins wrote: > Does anyone know approximately what it costs to get a > transponder checked and properly calibrated? Mode S transponder checks are running about $100 here in So Cal. Not sure about Mode C. But Mode S must be done with the transponder in the plane. I believe that you can have your mode C trans ponder done out of plane. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com DAR Inspection Next Weekend ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:50:09 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: 7/7A Builder's Get-Together From: "Bruce Anthony" --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Anthony" Hi Bob, Can 9/9A builders come too? After all, you mostly use our parts..... Oh wait, never mind, I'm not arriving 'til Friday. PS: I'm an MPR member. Bruce Anthony Rosemount, MN Wings Working in the garage, too. Do not archive ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 09:45:04 AM PST US From: Jim Oke Subject: RE: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke Gosh, actually running the engine at full power while restraining the airplane in a nose high attitude looks like overkill! How about just positioning the aircraft and seeing if the fuel pump will deliver the fuel needed to sustain the engine at full power. That is, disconnect the fuel line at the carb and run the pump for a short while capturing the fuel in a calibrated container. The engine/carb combination is surely a well-proven item, it's the fuel system that needs checking (for unobserved kinks in the lines, building debris clogging valves, etc.) That's what the Canadian regs require. Jim Oke Winnipeg, MB -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 6/26/05 3:36:14 PM Central Daylight Time, iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com writes: > What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning > techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose > high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow > full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I > hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is > the tail tied down to...what? > >>>> I know this looks a little scary, but faced with the same problem (test pilot requirement!) it worked well. Rope tied to nose leg is tensioned a bit with a come-a-long to keep the plane held down on the ramps, which are sitting on large aluminum plates normally used for main wheels of friends C-150 tie-down spot- very stable during test run... http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5201 Mark Phillips ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:52:14 AM PST US From: Tom Casey Subject: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: Tom Casey I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions? --Tom Netscape. Just the Net You Need. ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 10:02:37 AM PST US From: "John Furey" Subject: RV-List: In Flight Weather --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" For any of you thinking of buying a weather system for your plane I highly recommend the AWWX package by Control Vision. There are several providers out there and they all may be great but I have never seen a company work so hard to satisfy their customers as Control Vision did for me. I won't waste your time with the details but Tom Reed (VP of Operations) went so far as to give me his personal phone number and had me call him at home and on vacation, enough said. There are several display options with any of the providers, PDA, Tablet, etc. Although some say they need the bigger screen I found the PDA to be just fine. This is one of those products that once you use it you will never want to be without it. This post is not meant to put down any other providers, it is just to highlight a company that really made customer satisfaction a priority. John Furey 2nd RV6A, F1 Rocket "in the oven" ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 10:19:05 AM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: RE: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" > > >I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the >process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are >very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't >happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this >isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding >the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not >sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting >the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only >three or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces >but not at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions? > > > --Tom Opinions? HERE?? Nah, it'll never happen. ;) I tried backriveting on my -8 wings as well and just didn't find the only marginally better surface finish to be worth the trauma of using that long, slightly bent set. One slip and look out, major ding in the skin. We did a few ribs with this technique then swapped over to conventional riveting with a swivel set and never looked back. Now, I have had excellent results backriveting other stuff on the RV10, especially the tailcone skins, but used the shorter set with the plastic spring loaded sleeve around the shank. Those work great. The two piece aileron/elevator/flap/rudders on the modern era kits are ripe candidates for back riveting on the bench top with this setup. The depth of the wings makes the use of this smaller, more controllable set rather difficult. Maybe others have used it to advantage but it wasn't my cup 'o tea. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 10:43:14 AM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: Re: Brake line incident. --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey: The flex lines (#2 or #3) have a min radius of 1.5 to 2.0 inches. Looks like you have that room(?). Cheers George Subject: Re: Brake line incident. --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins >>1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made for >>grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread >>fittings on each end. >> > I found them at Grainger: > > http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?search_type=keyword&QueryString=grease+gun+hose&catindx1=Hoses%2C&catindx2=Grease+Gun&xi=xi > > Looks like a great idea! I might have to do this for my next annual. > This is a good idea. I've got the Grove gear on my 8, and the brake "line" comes out at the very bottom of the leg. This does not leave much room for a flexible hose. Has anyone found a solution for this? I've got some pictures here to help clarify what I'm talking about: http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20050314214854320 I guess grease gun hose would be flexible enough to wrap around there. Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Canopy --------------------------------- Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 10:52:20 AM PST US From: Paul Folbrecht Subject: Re: RV-List: In Flight Weather --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht I 2nd this. I just bought AnywhereMap/WX with an iPaq 4705 and it is the stuff. Beats the heck out of my Garmin 295 in every way.. even w/out the weather (which is killer). Haven't had to deal with their CS - it's worked perfectly out of the box. I don't work for them. ;-> John Furey wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" > >For any of you thinking of buying a weather system for your plane I highly >recommend the AWWX package by Control Vision. There are several providers >out there and they all may be great but I have never seen a company work so >hard to satisfy their customers as Control Vision did for me. I won't waste >your time with the details but Tom Reed (VP of Operations) went so far as to >give me his personal phone number and had me call him at home and on >vacation, enough said. There are several display options with any of the >providers, PDA, Tablet, etc. Although some say they need the bigger screen I >found the PDA to be just fine. This is one of those products that once you >use it you will never want to be without it. This post is not meant to put >down any other providers, it is just to highlight a company that really made >customer satisfaction a priority. > >John Furey >2nd RV6A, F1 Rocket "in the oven" > > > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 11:22:54 AM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? --> RV-List message posted by: The technique of checking fuel flow is found in Tony Bingelis, Firewall Forward book. Actually for pump aircraft it is 1.25% over max takeoff fuel flow (far 23.955c). Also you should consider takeoff attitude (steep in an RV) and acceleration in any ground test. Of course building a well designed popular kit plane like the RV , per plans, should produce an acceptable fuel system. Over the years I keep reading common questions and mistakes that keep being re-discovered. Tony's other books: Sport Plane Builder and Sport Plane Construction, are also good. I admit they are a little dated and dedicate many pages to rag and tube and wood construction , but there are still pearls of wisdom to be found. One of those is fuel system design and testing. That is why following the plans is important. Since kits are so complete today we don't have to test very much, as long as you build it per plans. You should be careful before making mods to the fuel system because there are many traps and it is a critical system. Lets face it planes have not changed much in 50 years. If you have access to them it is a good place to check. Often critical errors can be avoided by going to the "Dead Sea Scrolls". I am no old timer but have been into it for 15 years. The explosion of experimental aircraft due to quick build kits, pre-punch, new clone Lycomings and the world wide web builder sites have made building easier and quicker. However it seems some of the old news of homebuilt airplanes has been forgotten. Many IDEAS that people have tried or think of have been thought of tried. No need to reinvent the wheel. IF you have never seen the Bingelis book you should scan once for ideas. May be it is not relevant any more with the Web? What you think, is there anything better in book form as a general reference to building. WOW I am getting old. Cheers George From: "Ed Holyoke" Subject: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? Greg, Prop the airplane in a nose high attitude, disconnect the fuel line at the crab and time how long it takes to pump a pint or a quart into a container. Do the math for GPH. If I remember right, you want to see at least 1.5 times your max fuel burn. Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Grigson Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is the tail tied down to...what? This is out of the EAA "Amateur-Built Aircraft Certification Inspection Guide" developed for ASIs and DARs. Is this a requirement that those already flying have done and documented? Thanks. Greg in Honolulu --------------------------------- Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news & more. Check it out! ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 01:29:26 PM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Brake line incident. --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins George, I think you are right. I've ordered some hose and fittings, and as soon as I get them installed I'll take some pictures and put them on my site. Got hooked up with a good supplier off-list. Thanks, Jack! Mickey > Mickey: > > The flex lines (#2 or #3) have a min radius of 1.5 to 2.0 inches. Looks like you have that room(?). > > Cheers George > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Canopy do not archive ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 01:36:45 PM PST US From: Phil Birkelbach Subject: Re: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach I gave up on backrivetting my wing skins and found that I got better results with the swivel set. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up http://www.myrv7.com Tom Casey wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Casey > > >I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions? > > > --Tom > > >Netscape. Just the Net You Need. > > > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 02:09:03 PM PST US From: "John Fasching" Subject: RV-List: Riveting Wing Skins --> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching" One of the members of EAA Chapter 1161, Upper Arkansas Valley, CO, came up with a slick way for ONE MAN/WOMAN to rivet wing skins. He uses a steel plate about 3 x 5 x 5/8 as a 'bucking bar' and places it under the skin. From above, he places two very powerful rare-earth magnets which hold the plate in place. He rivets between the two magnets. The magnets are strong enough to hold the 'bucking bar' in place even while the rivet gun is 'banging away.' The quality of the riveting looks very good. In tight places where it is hard to reach, he used a piece of 2 x 4 wood with a small 'shelf' cut in the end to hold the steel plate and get it where the rivet is to be placed. When the magnets are placed above it grabs the plate and the 2 x 4 can be removed. I forwarded our Chapter's newsletter which featured this idea to Van's in case they might like to publish the idea in the RVATOR. The fellow who came up with this idea is Roger Bloomfield, an RV builder. John ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 02:20:15 PM PST US From: "William Gill" Subject: RE: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" Ditto! Bill Gill RV-7 Finish Lee's Summit, MO -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach Subject: Re: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach I gave up on backrivetting my wing skins and found that I got better results with the swivel set. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up http://www.myrv7.com Tom Casey wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Casey > > >I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions? > > > --Tom > > >Netscape. Just the Net You Need. > > > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 02:58:14 PM PST US From: "David Fenstermacher" Subject: RV-List: rear spar dimple/countersink question. --> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" Rear spar on an 8. Earlier, the directions say to dimple the inboard dozen, or so, holes. Then the directions say to "clean-up" the holes with a countersink bit. The question is - am I to dimple the entire spar and then clean 'em all up with a cutter. I remember thinking that dimpling this thick flange was wrong. I went ahead and did it. Hmmm (and yes, I looked in the archives). My gut reaction is to countersink the holes and not to dimple at all. Thoughts.... This is the last thing to do before riveting the skins on......... Tanks folks, Dave David Fenstermacher dfenstermacher@earthlink.net David Fenstermacher dfenstermacher@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 02:58:14 PM PST US From: "DonVS" Subject: RE: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: "DonVS" I also gave up on back riveting the wing skins. The quality was far better when done the conventional way, Don VS 7 Finishing Kit N12VS reserved -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach Subject: Re: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach I gave up on backrivetting my wing skins and found that I got better results with the swivel set. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up http://www.myrv7.com Tom Casey wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Casey > > >I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions? > > > --Tom > > >Netscape. Just the Net You Need. > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 03:40:07 PM PST US From: bertrv6@highstream.net Subject: Re: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net Quoting Greg Grigson : > --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson > > What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning > techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose > high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow > full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I > hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is > the tail tied down to...what? > > This is out of the EAA "Amateur-Built Aircraft > Certification Inspection Guide" developed for ASIs and > DARs. Is this a requirement that those already flying > have done and documented? > > Thanks. > Greg in Honolulu > Greg: It might help you, but Tony's Bengalis book, one of them, I cannot remmember which one, tells the way to check, how much fuel you must have going thru, when on climbing attitude...is a siple procedure. If you have the books, (which I recommend highly to any one) you will find that info. The E.A.A. might also give the same... Good luck Bert rv6a Do NOt archive > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 03:42:29 PM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss Tom, My initial results with the Avery long back rivet set, mirrored yours. I found that the slight "angle" at the end of the set was insufficient. I heated the bend area with an acetylene torch and added another 4 degrees of bend. I think the total bend was about 11 degrees. With this modification, the tool worked well. However, as I moved down (rearward) the ribs, I had problems towards the rear spar. The taper of the main ribs, forced me to increase the angle of the tool. I later borrowed a "C" style back riveting set from another builder. I found this tool to be the best method of back riveting any and all parts of my 8A. These are pricey new, about $138. You can find them on EBay for about $15 to $22 each used. I purchased 6 of these from the EBay vendor known as Alien Spirit. All the locals love them. They come in 2 sizes. I find the longer set the most useful. I own both. I only use the smaller set for places where the large one won't reach. See http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4558334963&category=26442&sspagename=WDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4558362026&category=26442&sspagename=WDVW My C sets are not offset like the ones in the web links above. However, I doubt the offset would increase the difficulty in using them. Good luck. Charlie Kuss >--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Casey > > >I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun >the process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets >are very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I >wasn't happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. >Obviously this isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so >far) Holding the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is >necessary but I'm not sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has >better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too >many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the improved >appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of decreased >strength. Techniques? Opinions? > > > --Tom > > >Netscape. Just the Net You Need. > > ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 03:53:59 PM PST US From: "Tom Casey" Subject: Re: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Casey" Thanks to everyone who offered their opinions. I thought everyone would be back riveting their wings but it turns out lots of folks feel the way I'm beginning to! I think I'll put the 12" back rivet set up for sale on Ebay and finish up the old fashionned way! --Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Casey" Subject: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins > --> RV-List message posted by: Tom Casey > > > I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions? > > > --Tom > > > Netscape. Just the Net You Need. > > ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 04:38:05 PM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton On 27 Jun 2005, at 18:39, bertrv6@highstream.net wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net > > Quoting Greg Grigson : > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson >> >> What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning >> techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose >> high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow >> full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I >> hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is >> the tail tied down to...what? >> >> This is out of the EAA "Amateur-Built Aircraft >> Certification Inspection Guide" developed for ASIs and >> DARs. Is this a requirement that those already flying >> have done and documented? >> >> Thanks. >> Greg in Honolulu >> >> > Greg: > It might help you, but Tony's Bengalis book, one of them, I cannot > remmember which one, tells the way to check, how much fuel you must > have > going thru, when on climbing attitude...is a siple procedure. > > If you have the books, (which I recommend highly to any one) you > will find > that info. > > The E.A.A. might also give the same... > > The official info on the FAA is in Advisory Circular 90-89A Amateur- Built Aircraft and Ultralight Flight Testing Handbook. There is lots of very useful info in this document, including instructions on how to do the fuel flow test, and what the minimum fuel flow should be. http://av-info.faa.gov/data/advisorycircular/ac90-89a.pdf Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 04:52:08 PM PST US From: rv6fly Subject: Re: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly Tom Casey wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Casey" > >Thanks to everyone who offered their opinions. I thought everyone would be >back riveting their wings but it turns out lots of folks feel the way I'm >beginning to! I think I'll put the 12" back rivet set up for sale on Ebay >and finish up the old fashionned way! --Tom > > > > Tom, I wouldn't give up so quickly. The results are so nice with > back riveting and your helper doesn't have to do much. (IOW, less > chance for screw-ups) I did the opposite of Charlie. I heated the set > and took out some of the bend. When using the set, support the end > with the thumb and forefinger against the work. I don't believe you > need as much air if you're using the "dumbbell", heavy type bucking > bar. I riveted conventionally on my RV6 but on the 6A I helped build > in Gillette, we back riveted the wings and the fuselage. We used one > piece wing skins and they turned out great. I think back riveting is > much faster, as well. If I were to build another airplane (wife says > something about "a cold day"), I'd for sure back rivet. > Bob Skinner > > > > -- ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 05:34:28 PM PST US From: "Tom Callender" Subject: Re: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Callender" Tom, I ordered the 12" offset back rivet set from Avery and had a note that said if found that I didn't like it... or the results after using it, I could return it for a full refund. Won't hurt to ask... btw after a little practice I got good results... Tom C > Thanks to everyone who offered their opinions. I thought everyone would be > back riveting their wings but it turns out lots of folks feel the way I'm > beginning to! I think I'll put the 12" back rivet set up for sale on Ebay > and finish up the old fashionned way! --Tom ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 05:36:40 PM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: Fw: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" Tom have you followed this thread ?. N561FS must sit at "above stall attitude" 'cause the only problem I recall was trying to keep the tail down during engine tests. Tied down & my 230# draped over the tail section. KABONG Do Not Archive. (GBA & GWB) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Horton" Subject: Re: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > > On 27 Jun 2005, at 18:39, bertrv6@highstream.net wrote: > >> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net >> >> Quoting Greg Grigson : >> >> >>> --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson >>> >>> What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning >>> techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose >>> high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow >>> full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I >>> hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is >>> the tail tied down to...what? >>> >>> This is out of the EAA "Amateur-Built Aircraft >>> Certification Inspection Guide" developed for ASIs and >>> DARs. Is this a requirement that those already flying >>> have done and documented? >>> >>> Thanks. >>> Greg in Honolulu >>> >>> >> Greg: >> It might help you, but Tony's Bengalis book, one of them, I cannot >> remmember which one, tells the way to check, how much fuel you must >> have >> going thru, when on climbing attitude...is a siple procedure. >> >> If you have the books, (which I recommend highly to any one) you >> will find >> that info. >> >> The E.A.A. might also give the same... >> >> > The official info on the FAA is in Advisory Circular 90-89A Amateur- > Built Aircraft and Ultralight Flight Testing Handbook. There is lots > of very useful info in this document, including instructions on how > to do the fuel flow test, and what the minimum fuel flow should be. > > http://av-info.faa.gov/data/advisorycircular/ac90-89a.pdf > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) > Ottawa, Canada > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 05:56:33 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Brake line incident. --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > George, > > I think you are right. I've ordered some hose and fittings, > and as soon as I get them installed I'll take some pictures > and put them on my site. Got hooked up with a good supplier > off-list. Thanks, Jack! > > Mickey Lots of discussion about hoses etc. being used for the final run to the brake calipers. Don't forget that properly designed aluminum lines in this area will be trouble free also. Make a nice large orbit (maybe 4 - 6" diameter?) of the axle with the aluminum tubing, and fasten it to the fairing mount properly, and it will last forever. Think about the motion that the caliper needs to go through during operation when you design the loop. Use RTV if necessary to dampen or prevent vibration, or to prevent chafing. Alex Peterson RV6A N66AP 630 hours Maple Grove, MN ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 06:12:39 PM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting Wing Skins --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube At 03:07 PM 6/27/2005, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching" > >One of the members of EAA Chapter 1161, Upper Arkansas Valley, CO, came up >with a slick way for ONE MAN/WOMAN to rivet wing skins. He uses a steel >plate about 3 x 5 x 5/8 as a 'bucking bar' and places it under the skin. > From above, he places two very powerful rare-earth magnets which hold the >plate in place. He rivets between the two magnets. The magnets are strong >enough to hold the 'bucking bar' in place even while the rivet gun is >'banging away.' If you pad the magnets with some duct tape, it might help reduce any scratching (or denting) of the inside of the wing skin surface and ribs. Bill Dube' ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 07:28:06 PM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re:Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com I used Avery's 12" back rivet set on my bottom wing skins and on the fuselage of our RV-4 and a neighbors RV-6A with very good results. I put masking tape on the shank and drew a red line on each side to enable me to orient ir properly. I used a flat steel plate ( 1/2" thick ) for a bucking bar on the outside. When you drive the rivets against a flat plate they just have to be smooth. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 08:15:05 PM PST US From: Don Diehl Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? --> RV-List message posted by: Don Diehl Here's a NTSB report on a crash and burn that I have not seen discussed on the List. Perhaps I missed something. Does anyone have the details? Don Diehl RV-4, N28EW Bremerton WA Do not archive.. NTSB Identification: SEA05LA118 14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation Accident occurred Wednesday, June 15, 2005 in Palouse, WA Aircraft: Rash Vans RV-6A, registration: N330CJ Injuries: 1 Minor. This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors. Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been completed. On June 15, 2005, about 1710 Pacific daylight time, an experimental Rash Vans RV-6A, N330CJ, registered to and operated by the pilot as a 14 CFR Part 91 personal flight, experienced a loss of engine power shortly after liftoff from a private airstrip located about two miles south of Palouse, Washington. The aircraft subsequently collided with rising terrain and was destroyed by a post-crash fire. Visual meteorological conditions prevailed at the time and no flight plan was filed. The commercial pilot, the sole occupant, received minor injuries. The flight was departing to Lewiston, Idaho. During a telephone interview, the pilot reported that the purpose of the flight was to accumulate flight time to satisfy the 40 hour test flight requirements for the newly completed aircraft. The aircraft had accumulated approximately 36 hours at the time of the accident. The pilot stated that he initially took off from Moscow, Idaho, and flew various flight maneuvers for about one hour before landing at the private airstrip south of Palouse. After stopping for dinner, he then started, taxied and accomplished a run-up before takeoff. The pilot reported that everything was normal up to this point. During the takeoff roll from runway 22, the aircraft accelerated, however, when the aircraft rotated and lifted off, the engine lost partial power. The pilot continued to fly the aircraft, however, it would not climb or accelerate and was on the edge of a stall. The aircraft traveled toward rising terrain, eventually colliding with the ground about one mile from the airstrip. A post-crash fire consumed the wreckage. ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 08:16:44 PM PST US From: "DonVS" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re:Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: "DonVS" How were you able to do the bottom skins with this setup? Don't the top skins get in the way? Don -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re:Back riveting wing skins --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com I used Avery's 12" back rivet set on my bottom wing skins and on the fuselage of our RV-4 and a neighbors RV-6A with very good results. I put masking tape on the shank and drew a red line on each side to enable me to orient ir properly. I used a flat steel plate ( 1/2" thick ) for a bucking bar on the outside. When you drive the rivets against a flat plate they just have to be smooth. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 09:02:02 PM PST US From: HCRV6@AOL.COM Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com John: I installed air dams in front of # 1 and # 2 cylinders and now have temperatures balanced to within 10 degrees F on all cylinders except in climb where # 3 still runs the hottest. My air dams are fabricated from 0.032 sheet angles that attach with # 8 screws to the baffles ramps and rest against the cylinder fins. I tried several different heights on both sides. Currently the one on the # 1 side is about 1 1/4" high (height tapers from the outside down) and the one in front of # 2 is about 1 3/4" high. Try different heights until you get the balanced temps you are happy with. I'm still adjusting mine! Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 98 hours