Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:34 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: back riveting (Mlfred@aol.com)
2. 07:41 AM - Any RVers in Italy or Germany? (Clinchy, Dave)
3. 08:01 AM - AFP boost pump (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
4. 08:08 AM - WTB: RV-3 kit / partial kit (BK)
5. 08:22 AM - Re: Beautiful RV-6 for sale (Hal Kempthorne)
6. 08:23 AM - Re: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN (Darrell Reiley)
7. 08:39 AM - Re: AFP boost pump (linn walters)
8. 10:53 AM - Fw: Navy to OSH (DAVID REEL)
9. 10:58 AM - F O R S A L E - RV-6 Empennage Kit (Bradley Kidder)
10. 10:58 AM - Re: Exhaust wrap ()
11. 11:19 AM - RV8 Jig Give Away (John)
12. 11:20 AM - Re: Fire (was - high temp silicone sealants and carb airbox sealants) ()
13. 11:36 AM - Re: Re: Exhaust wrap (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
14. 12:16 PM - Re: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN (Ron Lee)
15. 12:26 PM - Re: Re: Exhaust wrap (BPA)
16. 01:04 PM - Re: F O R S A L E - RV-6 Empennage Kit (FLYNBYK@cs.com)
17. 01:13 PM - Re: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN (Ed Holyoke)
18. 03:49 PM - Re: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN (Darrell Reiley)
19. 03:54 PM - Re: exhaust wrap (bill shook)
20. 06:02 PM - Cowl mounting (Darwin N. Barrie)
21. 06:30 PM - Re: Cowl mounting (Kyle Boatright)
22. 06:43 PM - Re: AFP boost pump (Charlie Kuss)
23. 07:04 PM - Re: Cowl mounting (LarryRobertHelming)
24. 07:48 PM - Re: Cowl mounting (Sam Buchanan)
25. 08:22 PM - My RV-6A Project in Honolulu is Finished! (Greg Grigson)
26. 08:37 PM - Re: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
27. 08:59 PM - VAN'S TACHOMETER (Bruno)
28. 09:18 PM - Re: Cowl mounting (Terry Watson)
29. 09:36 PM - Re: My RV-6A Project in Honolulu is Finished! (Tom Gummo)
30. 10:20 PM - Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? (RobHickman@aol.com)
31. 11:46 PM - Trio Avionics Altitude Hold Report (Wheeler North)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: back riveting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred@aol.com
In a message dated 6/29/2005 2:02:13 AM Central Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Time: 08:48:55 PM PST US
From: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:Back riveting wing skins
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Don;
I installed the bottom skins first so that I could back rivet them.
As I said - I wanted the bottom skins as smooth as possible to forestall
performance loss due to higher pressure on the bottom.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Hmmm..doesn't higher pressure indicate SLOWER flow? Wouldn't it make more
sense to make sure the smoothest skin was where the flow is the fastest??
FWIW, surface 'smoothness' or lack thereof makes very little difference past
about 25% chord anyway.
Carry on!
Mark
Message 2
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| Subject: | Any RVers in Italy or Germany? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd@losrios.edu>
Are there any RVers out there in northern Italy or southern Germany?
I'll be vacationing in Tuscany Italy and near Bodensee in southern
Germany in the last two weeks of July. I'd like to come visit any RVs in
progress or flying.
Micky - are you out there? What part of Switzerland are you in?
Dave Clinchy
7 finishing... finishing...
Sacramento, CA
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Sending this note to the archives for future reference.
If your on the road and your air flow performance electric fuel boost
pump dies, there is a direct replacement available. I was in boneyville
when mine failed and all 3 local parts stores to include Napa, Autozone,
and Advanced Autoparts had one in stock.
Napa delivered right to the field.
It is a Carter fuel pump part number P74015.
Must have some common automotive usage. Thanks to Charlie Kuss who took
my call while I was 3k miles from home.
Lots of you guys are running these. It is the 3rd failure in 1400 hours
for me.
Apparently the filter that comes with the AFP unit is not fine enough
and the pumps get tore up with junk in em. Charlie gave me the part
number for the finer mesh but I cant find it right now. I will put that
in the archives too..
Symptoms before complete failure are:
1. Pump starts to sound sick. Makes a racket and sounds terrible.
2. Pump locks up when you try to engage it and will throw the
breaker. Tapping the pump gets it going again. Like a bad spot on a car
starter. Bang on it to get to move off the bad spot.
I know many of you probably have many more hours on yours, but I do use
mine a lot as I get some vapor over 10k' so my pump stays on there. I
fly in that range a lot so I suspect that I have more pump hours per
engine hours than most.
Best,
Mike
Mike Stewart
Message 4
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| Subject: | WTB: RV-3 kit / partial kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: BK <ltwdg@yahoo.com>
I'm still looking for an RV-3 kit or partial kit, with the intent of
purchasing the quickbuild -3 wing from vans.
Anyone?
Thx.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Beautiful RV-6 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
NO!
It looks as tho all that is needed to make it IFR is a VOR radio - $1500 or so.
Most certainly wrong to call it "awfully expensive".
hal
Jeff Dowling <shempdowling2@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
Very pretty but awfully expensive for a vfr a/c.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler"
Subject: RV-List: Beautiful RV-6 for sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> One of our local RV club members has put his RV-6 up for sale. This is a
> very nice aircraft, 180 hp, Sensenich prop, only 330 hours TT.
>
> Details are here at our website:
>
> http://www.mnwing.org/ForSale.htm
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> Pres, MN Wing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
It's heat. We've experienced the same issue twice. A blast tube will solve your
issue... It solved the problem on this end...
Darrell
Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno
Hello All
Today my new Van=92s tachometer quit on me again. Last time I
change the transducer (Good service from Van=92s by the way) but today to be
honest I=92m not really sure what could be the problem. I tried a new gauge
with the same results. Next I=92ll try a new transducer again=85??/ Any
suggestions??
Also what do you guys think of the Electronics International Tachometer that
Van=92s sell?? Are they worth the money? Or do you guys know of any other good
2 =BC size tachometer out there??
Thank you for your time
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
Rv4@videotron.ca
P.s# you may respond off list if you wish.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: AFP boost pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Take the pump apart and burnish the contacts with a CLEAN relay contact
file. It should work fine. Been there, done that quite a few times on
multiple pumps. The reason that yours don't last so long (and you
alluded to) is that you do use it a lot more than normal .... which for
the masses is takeoff and landing .... you do use your boost pump
(normally aspirated) then, don't you? I don't have anything (yet) with
FI .... what's SOP with their boost pump???? For Mike, a motor-driven
pump may be a better choice than the impulse ones. All this is assuming
that he has an impulse pump right now!!!
Linn .... workshop going up!!!
do not archive
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>
>Sending this note to the archives for future reference.
>
>If your on the road and your air flow performance electric fuel boost
>pump dies, there is a direct replacement available. I was in boneyville
>when mine failed and all 3 local parts stores to include Napa, Autozone,
>and Advanced Autoparts had one in stock.
>
>Napa delivered right to the field.
>
>It is a Carter fuel pump part number P74015.
>
>Must have some common automotive usage. Thanks to Charlie Kuss who took
>my call while I was 3k miles from home.
>
>Lots of you guys are running these. It is the 3rd failure in 1400 hours
>for me.
>
>Apparently the filter that comes with the AFP unit is not fine enough
>and the pumps get tore up with junk in em. Charlie gave me the part
>number for the finer mesh but I cant find it right now. I will put that
>in the archives too..
>
>Symptoms before complete failure are:
>
>1. Pump starts to sound sick. Makes a racket and sounds terrible.
>2. Pump locks up when you try to engage it and will throw the
>breaker. Tapping the pump gets it going again. Like a bad spot on a car
>starter. Bang on it to get to move off the bad spot.
>
>
>I know many of you probably have many more hours on yours, but I do use
>mine a lot as I get some vapor over 10k' so my pump stays on there. I
>fly in that range a lot so I suspect that I have more pump hours per
>engine hours than most.
>
>
>Best,
>
>Mike
>
>
>Mike Stewart
>
>
>
>
--
Message 8
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|
"Pat Donovan" <pa24pilot@cox.net>,
"Marcia Davidson" <jdavidso@fcc.net>,
"Kip Livingston" <kipliv@aol.com>, "Harry Dutson" <mhdyott@aol.com>,
"Gilbert Coshland" <gcoshland@compuserve.com>,
"George Smith" <gsmith1803@aol.com>, "Don Maziarz" <n2va@adelphia.net>,
"Dick Roe" <rroe@juno.com>, "judy Sparks" <JHSPARKS01@aol.com>,
"Dick Koehler" <rkoehler@udc.edu>, "rvlist" <rv-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
If you know of anyone who has an unused reservation in the university dorms,
please forward this to them.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <JWAllen@Bethesda.med.navy.mil>
Subject: Navy to OSH
> Hi Mr. Reel:
> I spoke to you about obtaining a room(s) at OSH for July 26 -28. I'm
in
> the military currently assigned to Philly. When I was I the DC area I was
> aware of your chapter of the EAA and was going to go with the group to
OSH.
> That didn't happen but this year looks like my nephew, an Army LT, my
> daughter and I will be able to go.
>
> Do you know of anyone with a reservation that could transfer it to me?
>
> (215) 897 - 8148 or (302) 478 - 2852.
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Jim Allen
>
>
> This document may contain information covered under the Privacy Act, 5 USC
> 552(a), and/or the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act (PL
> 104-191) and its various implementing regulations and must be protected in
> accordance with those provisions. Healthcare information is personal and
> sensitive and must be treated accordingly. If this correspondence contains
> healthcare information it is being provided to you after appropriate
> authorization from the patient or under circumstances that don't require
> patient authorization. You, the recipient, are obligated to maintain it in
a
> safe, secure and confidential manner. Redisclosure without additional
> patient consent or as permitted by law is prohibited. Unauthorized
> redisclosure or failure to maintain confidentiality subjects you to
> application of appropriate sanction. If you have received this
> correspondence in error, please notify the sender at once and destroy any
> copies you have made.
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | F O R S A L E - RV-6 Empennage Kit |
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID162JFCR7P0006X31
1.34 GAPPY_SUBJECT Subject: contains G.a.p.p.y-T.e.x.t
--> RV-List message posted by: Bradley Kidder <sparksnmagic@usa.net>
For Sale:
Pre-drilled RV-6/6A empennage kit. Includes construction manual, preview
plans, and optional electric trim kit.
Some riveting done, perhaps 15%.
Asking price is $950 (paid $1435 7/98).
Absolutely undamaged and safely stored.
Located in Fort Smith, Arkansas.
Pictures available.
><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
Brad Kidder .=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
N188FW AA-1 #124 "Hawg One"
AOPA (ASN/KSLG) - EAA - Angel Flight
.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
. , . .=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Here is the con of the Exhaust wrap as I understand it. I asked a two manufactures
of custom aircraft aircraft exhaust and was warned not to use wrap. Apparently
the exhaust pipe is put under more stress (thermal) and leads to early failure.
Also wrap can collect oil and cause a fire. Apparently it is not an uncommon
problem. Wrap at your own risk. I like the idea, but if it increases the
fire danger or chance of an exhaust crack, I will pass for now.
The other scheme to reduce heat under the cowl is ceramic coatings. I was told
flat out buy one exhaust manufacture that he would not warranty my exhaust with
ceramic. Again more likely to crack.
It make sense. If you keep the exhaust super heated and unable to cool it may fail
earlier. As far as ceramics there may be a whole different mechanism in causing
cracks in exhaust pipes.Any technical data or experience with wrap. I am
only going on what the people who make stainless steel exhaust say. Is thick
walled mild steel better with wraps or coatings?
Cheers George
Time: 06:43:08 PM PST US
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com> Subject: exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours. I leave
it
natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps work best.
Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The hose clamps
do the best job.
I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can be
inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it will BLOW
through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but know on RV-3
with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Hi gang,
I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of my RV-4,
IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and could be torn
off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that it might
be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed, I realize
how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found after
removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a suggestion
concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All suggestions
will be considered. Thanks.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
---------------------------------
Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it out!
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV8 Jig Give Away |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <jtb1@prodigy.net>
I have a very nice sturdy Jig for building an RV8 that i am finished with. This
jig has built three RV8-A's so far. If you can use it come and get it. It is
located in Graniteville,SC just North of I-20 and about 50 miles West of Columbia,SC
and about 30 miles East of Augusta, GA. I need the room in my hangar so
if no one claimes it I will scrap it.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fire (was - high temp silicone sealants and carb airbox sealants) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
>Subject: high temp silicone sealants and carb airbox sealants
>Date: Dec 08, 1999
>I don't use teflon tape either for similar reasons. I am amazed at how many
>people put this crap in places it is not meant to be. I've seen it on flare
>fittings, hose barbs (yikes, what were they thinking?) and countless other
>places it's not supposed to go.
That is why it is called amateur build aircraft.
>If you do have a fire it won't matter if it burns up the ProSeal first anyway.
Besides by the >time it burns through the proseal it will soon be burning through
the aluminum floorboards. >Perhaps a nicely fitted stainless firewall with
a stainless exhaust shield mounted 1/4" under >the floorboards, on the outside,
would be good. Would keep some exhaust heat off your feet >too!
>Vince in Indiana
>Flame me if you want..I've got my fire barrier ready!
Did you think about your fiberglass cowl burning a foot or two away from your Plexiglas
windscreen. My I suggest a parachute or Nomex suite and smoke hood. Fire
is serious and any thing you can do to seal and protect is great, but in light
aircraft structure there is only so much you can do. Next would be fire detection
system and fire protection (in flight fire extinguishers). My point
is there is nothing that will completely protect us and I wear a chute. True story.
A Friend of a friend went flying in the pattern and left the chute in the
hanger. On down wind he had a massive fuel feed engine fire. By the time he
got it on the ground and out of the plane he was badly burned. Yes in level flight
1000 feet is more than enough to get out. A chute must fully open in 2-3
seconds, or about 300 feet in this horizontal flight path bailout scenario. Bottom
line spend 100 times more effort in preventing and protecting from any chance
of fuel, oil or exhaust fires than sealing. Sea
ling
good, but no fire is best altogether.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Hmm, I thought most places did the ceramic coating process to the inside of the
pipe, I would think this would actually produce lower temps in the steel. Not
to mention I would think that slower cooling of the metal should reduce the
likelihood of cracking. Of course I could be wrong on both.
Michael
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Here is the con of the Exhaust wrap as I understand it. I asked a two manufactures
of custom aircraft aircraft exhaust and was warned not to use wrap. Apparently
the exhaust pipe is put under more stress (thermal) and leads to early failure.
Also wrap can collect oil and cause a fire. Apparently it is not an uncommon
problem. Wrap at your own risk. I like the idea, but if it increases the
fire danger or chance of an exhaust crack, I will pass for now.
The other scheme to reduce heat under the cowl is ceramic coatings. I was told
flat out buy one exhaust manufacture that he would not warranty my exhaust with
ceramic. Again more likely to crack.
It make sense. If you keep the exhaust super heated and unable to cool it may fail
earlier. As far as ceramics there may be a whole different mechanism in causing
cracks in exhaust pipes.Any technical data or experience with wrap. I am
only going on what the people who make stainless steel exhaust say. Is thick
walled mild steel better with wraps or coatings?
Cheers George
Time: 06:43:08 PM PST US
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com> Subject: exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours. I leave
it
natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps work best.
Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The hose clamps
do the best job.
I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can be
inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it will BLOW
through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but know on RV-3
with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Hi gang,
I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of my RV-4,
IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and could be torn
off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that it might
be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed, I realize
how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found after
removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a suggestion
concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All suggestions
will be considered. Thanks.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
---------------------------------
Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it out!
Message 14
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| Subject: | VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
> We've got a magneto
>and Lightspeed electronic and the tach is hooked to the mag. When you
>turn off the CDI, you can read the drop, but with the mag off, the
>display goes blank. I don't know if there's a way around that one.
I have the same issue and when I checked with Klaus there is not. However,
since the RPM is essentially the same with all ignition sources on and
with just EI on (mag off) (I can hear it close enough), I just don't worry
about it.
Ron Lee
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
Hi George,
I've been following this exhaust wrap debate all morning and decided I
would get a word in. Now, I am not an expert on exhaust systems, my
specialty lies in the building of high performance Lycoming engines
(certified also), but I have on more than one occasion eye witnessed two
different engines being tested on dynamometer using the ceramic coated
exhaust systems. One engine, a TSIO-520 running on a test cell at
another engine shop down from ours and a High Performance highly
modified IO-540 300 HP engine on our own dyno. On both occasions, the
mild steel pipes were ceramic coated inside and out. I could literally
hold my hand within 1 inch of the pipes before I could feel any radiant
heat from the pipes, and this was at full power. The shop responsible
for these systems is Forsling Aviation in Co. We are working on some
stuff for the RV-10 together, and doing some different testing with
different types of exhaust packages. If you would like to talk with
them, I would be more than happy to pass his number along.
Regards,
Allen Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
(918) 835-1089 phone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Here is the con of the Exhaust wrap as I understand it. I asked a two
manufactures of custom aircraft aircraft exhaust and was warned not to
use wrap. Apparently the exhaust pipe is put under more stress (thermal)
and leads to early failure. Also wrap can collect oil and cause a fire.
Apparently it is not an uncommon problem. Wrap at your own risk. I like
the idea, but if it increases the fire danger or chance of an exhaust
crack, I will pass for now.
The other scheme to reduce heat under the cowl is ceramic coatings. I
was told flat out buy one exhaust manufacture that he would not warranty
my exhaust with ceramic. Again more likely to crack.
It make sense. If you keep the exhaust super heated and unable to cool
it may fail earlier. As far as ceramics there may be a whole different
mechanism in causing cracks in exhaust pipes.Any technical data or
experience with wrap. I am only going on what the people who make
stainless steel exhaust say. Is thick walled mild steel better with
wraps or coatings?
Cheers George
Time: 06:43:08 PM PST US
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com> Subject: exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours.
I leave it
natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps
work best.
Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The
hose clamps
do the best job.
I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can be
inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it
will BLOW
through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but know
on RV-3
with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Hi gang,
I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of
my RV-4,
IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and
could be torn
off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that
it might
be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed,
I realize
how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found
after
removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a
suggestion
concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All
suggestions
will be considered. Thanks.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
---------------------------------
Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it
out!
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: F O R S A L E - RV-6 Empennage Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: FLYNBYK@cs.com
In a message dated 6/29/05 11:09:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
sparksnmagic@usa.net writes:
<< For Sale:
Pre-drilled RV-6/6A empennage kit. Includes construction manual, preview
plans, and optional electric trim kit.
Some riveting done, perhaps 15%.
Asking price is $950 (paid $1435 7/98).
Absolutely undamaged and safely stored.
Located in Fort Smith, Arkansas.
Pictures available.
>>
is this the counter balance rudder or the original shorter unbalanced rudder.
Bob Gorman/CA
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Yeah, I'm with you - I don't worry about the mag drop. You usually can't
detect any. However, I'm currently having problems with my Lightspeed
and when I turn off the mag, it wants to quit almost. Found a coil out
of spec and replaced both but it didn't get better. I'm in the process
of checking the trigger bolt gap (what a joy). If that doesn't help, I'm
not sure what else to do. I'd have to pull the prop to replace the
trigger coils and I don't wanna.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Subject: RE: RV-List: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
> We've got a magneto
>and Lightspeed electronic and the tach is hooked to the mag. When you
>turn off the CDI, you can read the drop, but with the mag off, the
>display goes blank. I don't know if there's a way around that one.
I have the same issue and when I checked with Klaus there is not.
However,
since the RPM is essentially the same with all ignition sources on and
with just EI on (mag off) (I can hear it close enough), I just don't
worry
about it.
Ron Lee
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
A blast tube to the transducer...
Darrell
Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno
Hello All
Today my new Van=92s tachometer quit on me again. Last time I
change the transducer (Good service from Van=92s by the way) but today to be
honest I=92m not really sure what could be the problem. I tried a new gauge
with the same results. Next I=92ll try a new transducer again=85??/ Any
suggestions??
Also what do you guys think of the Electronics International Tachometer that
Van=92s sell?? Are they worth the money? Or do you guys know of any other good
2 =BC size tachometer out there??
Thank you for your time
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
Rv4@videotron.ca
P.s# you may respond off list if you wish.
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: bill shook <billshook2000@yahoo.com>
On the subject of exhaust wrapping I will give this warning. IF you get an oil
leak and
it soaks the wrap...take it off, take it all off. Otherwise the oil stays in the
wrap,
the exhaust heats it up..and it catches on fire. Exactly that happened on my race
car
anyway and the oil leak was so slight it wasn't noticed. Came out from under the
cam
cover gasket, ran onto the exhaust and slowly soaked the exhaust. Never even noticed
it..till it caught on fire. Just a word of warning.
Bill
-4 wings
--- RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
>
> Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours. I leave it
> natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps work best.
> Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The hose clamps
> do the best job.
>
> I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can be
> inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it will BLOW
> through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but know on RV-3
> with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
> Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 20:58:03 -0400
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
>
> Hi gang,
>
>
> I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of my RV-4,
> IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and could be torn
> off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that it might
> be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed, I realize
> how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found after
> removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a suggestion
> concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All suggestions
> will be considered. Thanks.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Somewhere in the maze of information I have read about mounting the cowl slightly
lower than the spinner backplate to compensate for the engine sag.
I am going to start the cowl mounting tonight and would like some info from those
who have "been there, done that."
DArwin N. Barrie
P19
Cowl/baffling/wiring completion
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Check the archives. Lots of information there, some conflicting...
I think I left my prop/spinner about 3/16 high, and it settled more or less
in-line after a few hours and has remained there since. (300 and something
hours).
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl mounting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> Somewhere in the maze of information I have read about mounting the cowl
> slightly lower than the spinner backplate to compensate for the engine
> sag.
>
> I am going to start the cowl mounting tonight and would like some info
> from those who have "been there, done that."
>
> DArwin N. Barrie
> P19
> Cowl/baffling/wiring completion
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: AFP boost pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Mike
The 25 micron ( 0.001") filter element for the Flow Ezy Model 6 ILA
filter (as supplied by AFP and Vans) is part number 8504-05. Price on Flow
Ezy's web site shows a price of $40.20 This is a direct replacement for
the stock 174 micron element. FYI Bendix mandates a filter element of no
more coarse than 74 microns.
You can find the 6 ILA filter here. It's the 8th item from the top of the page.
http://198.170.245.162/flowezypagehydraulicfilters.html#HIGHPRESSUREIN-LINEFILTER
Charlie Kuss
PS George Meketa was the one who first turned me onto this info.
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
><mstewart@iss.net>
>
>Sending this note to the archives for future reference.
>
>If your on the road and your air flow performance electric fuel boost
>pump dies, there is a direct replacement available. I was in boneyville
>when mine failed and all 3 local parts stores to include Napa, Autozone,
>and Advanced Autoparts had one in stock.
>
>Napa delivered right to the field.
>
>It is a Carter fuel pump part number P74015.
>
>Must have some common automotive usage. Thanks to Charlie Kuss who took
>my call while I was 3k miles from home.
>
>Lots of you guys are running these. It is the 3rd failure in 1400 hours
>for me.
>
>Apparently the filter that comes with the AFP unit is not fine enough
>and the pumps get tore up with junk in em. Charlie gave me the part
>number for the finer mesh but I cant find it right now. I will put that
>in the archives too..
>
>Symptoms before complete failure are:
>
>1. Pump starts to sound sick. Makes a racket and sounds terrible.
>2. Pump locks up when you try to engage it and will throw the
>breaker. Tapping the pump gets it going again. Like a bad spot on a car
>starter. Bang on it to get to move off the bad spot.
>
>
>I know many of you probably have many more hours on yours, but I do use
>mine a lot as I get some vapor over 10k' so my pump stays on there. I
>fly in that range a lot so I suspect that I have more pump hours per
>engine hours than most.
>
>
>Best,
>
>Mike
>
>
>Mike Stewart
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
You are right about allowing about 3/16" for the engine sag.
Mounting the cowling is well documented. Basically you want to get the
known prop location set first. Then gap the cowling back from that. That
is the important thing to do. Also, get the cowling centered carefully on
the fuselage. If you don't you will know later why it is important. Then
clamp it down to the prop or its hub so it will not move around. Start
marking it up and cutting it to make a perfect fit. One of the builders has
an excellent way of gapping the cowling back from the prop using cut off
pieces of plastic pipe rather than having to actually mount the prop. I
found it once, and I am sure you can too. It works perfectly. Take your
time on the cowling fitting and it will pay dividends down the road.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies Phase 1 testing done. Where to fly
outside the box? Bobby Hester are you there?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> Somewhere in the maze of information I have read about mounting the cowl
> slightly lower than the spinner backplate to compensate for the engine
> sag.
>
> I am going to start the cowl mounting tonight and would like some info
> from those who have "been there, done that."
>
> DArwin N. Barrie
> P19
> Cowl/baffling/wiring completion
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> You are right about allowing about 3/16" for the engine sag.
>
> Mounting the cowling is well documented. Basically you want to get the
> known prop location set first. Then gap the cowling back from that. That
> is the important thing to do. Also, get the cowling centered carefully on
> the fuselage. If you don't you will know later why it is important. Then
> clamp it down to the prop or its hub so it will not move around. Start
> marking it up and cutting it to make a perfect fit. One of the builders has
> an excellent way of gapping the cowling back from the prop using cut off
> pieces of plastic pipe rather than having to actually mount the prop. I
> found it once, and I am sure you can too. It works perfectly. Take your
> time on the cowling fitting and it will pay dividends down the road.
There are probably several places you can now find info about using the
PVC spacers, but here is a page with a photo of the spacers in use on my
project (scroll 1/2 way down the page):
http://thervjournal.com/engine2.html
Sam Buchanan
Message 25
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| Subject: | My RV-6A Project in Honolulu is Finished! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Gang,
Today at approximately 3:30pm HST I drove the last #6
screw on the right wing tip. FINISHED!!
Eight years of blood, sweat, and tears and the project
is a plane. Working for a mid-July FAA sign-off and
first flight.
Thanks to Vans
Thanks to the RV List
Thanks to the EAA
Aloha.
Greg Grigson (:>
Honolulu International Airport #416
N-79PT
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno
Hello All
Also what do you guys think of the Electronics International Tachometer
that Van=92s sell?? Are they worth the money? Or do you guys know of any
other good 2 =BC size tachometer out there??
Bruno: If you are running mags, take a look at the Horizon digital
tach. It counts the pulses on each mag, compares them continuosly,
alerts you to major discrepancies, presents the drop for each mag when
testing, indicates if you have a failed mag, keeps a record of hours,
notes overspeeds and more. It is rather costly. In my experience it is
dead nuts reliable, does not need a transducer and the display is easy
to read. I do not miss the analog display at all.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 27
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| Subject: | VAN'S TACHOMETER |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Hello Ed
Thanks for the reply.
Well, not having the exact time on the tach is not a major factor
for me as I have a hobb's meter already installed but I'm glad to know that
you like your E.I. Tachometer.
There must be a way to connect it so it can read of the mag and the
electronic ignition. I'll send an e-mail to EI to see what they have to say
on this and also to Klaus Savier to see if he knows a way around that.
Cheers
Bruno
Time: 10:09:25 PM PST US
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Hi Bruno,
I'm flying behind an EI tach and I like it fine. It's kinda nice to have
both graphical (lights) and digital displays. When you get to redline
RPM, it flashes a red light to get your attention. We've got a magneto
and Lightspeed electronic and the tach is hooked to the mag. When you
turn off the CDI, you can read the drop, but with the mag off, the
display goes blank. I don't know if there's a way around that one. It
keeps track of tach time, but be aware that it is substantially less
than Hobbs time at least on our O-320 and Sensinitch which is redlined
at 2600. YMMV
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
The instructions for fitting the cowl without a prop are on Van's website.
That's the way I did it, and any problems I had were not due to the method
but the builder.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
One of the builders has
an excellent way of gapping the cowling back from the prop using cut off
pieces of plastic pipe rather than having to actually mount the prop. I
found it once, and I am sure you can too. It works perfectly. Take your
time on the cowling fitting and it will pay dividends down the road.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies Phase 1 testing done. Where to fly
outside the box? Bobby Hester are you there?
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: My RV-6A Project in Honolulu is Finished! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Good Job.
Guess you don't have to worry about the size of your fly off area. :-)
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
It was an NSI Subaru...
Rob Hickman
RV-4 N401RH
Message 31
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|
"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@roxy.matronics.com
| Subject: | Trio Avionics Altitude Hold Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Folks,
I have been doing some alpha and beta testing for the dynamic trio at Trio
Avionics with their new altitude hold.
This unit seems to be very nice, doing much the same as the AltTrac, but
with many more feedback and control options.
One really nice feature it has the ability to rotate an encoder knob and
change the altitude by about 5' per click.
The LCD display is also the engage button and provides various data such as
"ready", "alt hold", "alt adj up","alt adj dwn", "first floor - bluelight
special", etc.
The unit has some safety features that are stunning. It will kick out the
servo and give you an aural and visual alarm if you exceed servo travel,
clutch slip for more than a few seconds, 1 g either way (ie +2 or 0) and in
the plans for model 2 with VS capacity it will monitor airspeed and will
warn you and then kick out if min or max AS is exceeded.
The VS models will have VS mode and travel to altitude mode eventually.
After some time playing with trim filters it seems to be dialed in for the
RVs. As such it will drop about 30 ft going into a 30 deg bank turn then
regain that quickly and stabilize through the rest of the turn, with almost
no rise coming out of the turn. This is equal to the AlTrac's performance.
As well the engage overshoot is very nicely limited, but this will vary
depending on rate of VS at the time of engaging. The dampening is usually
within one cycle unless its bumpy outside. I haven't yet flown it in really
rough conditions, but in moderate conditions, like the AlTrac, it seems to
hang in there in keeping things well within +- 20ft.
This is a little tough to tell in the RV6s with small tails as they tend to
wiggle wag away the bump energy a lot.
If you are out of trim it will tell you two ways, one the display will tell
you "adj trm up" or "dn", and two, if its out enough, it will start acting
noticeably more abrupt as it corrects. Nothing scary, but it does let you
know its time to look at it and adjust. Instead of a smooth correction that
you don't really notice, it makes a correction that you notice as a positive
input change.
In the future models the design goal will be to have it be able to
automatically adjust trim if you have the electric servo type.
The clutch slip is identical to the clutch slip felt in the Navaid.
Servo mounting looks to be just aft of the midship pitch bellcrank, and they
are working on supplying a predrilled mount tray for this. The bonus here is
about 2 lbs as this servo weighs a lot less than the Trutrac servos.
All in all, I have flown several manufacturer's products, and this one has
the most features for about the same price. The rotary encoder that can set
altitude adjustments while engaged is way cool. I may wear that puppy out
playing with it on approaches. This knob will also be used to adjust things
like VS, briteness, contrast, gain, etc.
My only whine is that the rotary encoder and the LCD display switch won't
both fit into one 2.25 inst bezel. But, according to the guru, its really
hard to fit that much magic into such a little space.
Speaking of magic, the system comes with four magic components, the rotary
encoder, the LCD display/switch, the queen bee brain, which has ports for
static and eventually pitot, and a very newly designed servo. This servo has
some exterior similarities to the old navaid type, but the magic inside is
completely different. As these things talk to each other they are constantly
testing each other. If they suspect bad mojo the system kicks out an error
and you get the alarms and pitch control back in your lap.
The aural alarm is a feature they just worked out so that it will feed into
the audio panel if desired. This is very nice and loud as it will wake you
up if you are getting control tossed back at you.
I have suggested several features, one - that when you change lanes onto a
new victor airway that it have a speed bump simulation feature, another -
autoland, a third - autotaxi, but I'm thinking they aren't going to put
these high on their priority lists. In fact it is not their goal to replace
the pilot, and in fact they are not recommending this to be an IFR tool in
spite of what you may use it for.
I will get worried though when it starts refering to itself as HAL, and you
as DAVE. If you notice this feature I would suggest that you cut the wires
to your ejection seat and any airlocks you may have installed.
Not sure when they are going to market with it, but it should be sometime
soon. I know they will be at the NWEAA flyin in AWO next week with a cool
demo board. As well, WX permitting, I'll be there, as well as at OSH for any
looky loos who want to drool.
Otherwise try www.trioavionics.com
W aka - not employed in any way by anybody other than Governor Arnie.
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