Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:45 AM - Need advice on wood props. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
2. 01:32 AM - Re: Need advice on wood props. (Jeff Point)
3. 04:33 AM - Re: Re: RV9-A Fuel line (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 05:40 AM - Re: Need advice on wood props. (Ron Lee)
5. 10:36 AM - Alternator Cooling (DAVID REEL)
6. 12:07 PM - Re: Alternator Cooling (Ron Lee)
7. 01:02 PM - Encouragement - Help (Richard Leach)
8. 01:41 PM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Walter Tondu)
9. 01:48 PM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Greg Young)
10. 03:08 PM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Rob Prior (rv7))
11. 04:25 PM - Mike Shields Atlantic Crossing (Roger Embree)
12. 05:46 PM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Dan Checkoway)
13. 06:33 PM - ESPN Camera ship (Jim Cimino)
14. 07:13 PM - Re: First Start-Up (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
15. 08:20 PM - USB powered GPS with iPaq?? (Charlie England)
16. 10:19 PM - Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? 1.30 UNDISC_RECIPS Valid-looking To "undisclosed-recipients" (Paul Folbrecht)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Need advice on wood props. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
I decided I would do my first flights with a wood prop and fly with one for
a while before spending the big bucks on something metal. I was going to
order a new one but have recently come across two used props that can be had
for very good prices and supposedly will work on my airplane. Problem is,
I'm not 100% sure they'll work on my plane and I don't know anything about
wood props so I'm not sure if I'm looking at good deals or worthless junk.
So any listers familiar with wood props that could give me some advice would
be appreciated.
I have a Mattituck Lycoming 0-360 clone engine with standard compression
pistons, lightspeed ignition on one side and AFP fuel injection (180 Horse).
The props in question supposedly fit the bolt pattern on my crankshaft. I
purchased the 2 and 1/4 inch wood prop extension from Van's and the pins on
that extension do line up with the bolt holes in both propellers but the
hubs of both propellers would have to be drilled out larger to fit over
these pins. How would I do that? I assume this would have to be a
precision operation so the prop wouldn't fit sloppy over the extension.
One of the props has what looks to be little wooden inserts glued into the
bolt holes which I assume were put there to make the bolt hole smaller or
maybe take out some elongation of the holes (although it doesn't look like
the original holes are oval in shape or grossly elongated). Would this be a
"red flag" for buying this prop? This prop bolt pattern matches the pattern
for my engine but the bolt holes are smaller and would have to be drilled
out larger for the extension so maybe it wouldn't matter?! Again, how would
I go about drilling the holes out bigger and get the required accuracy to
fit the prop extension?
Manufacturers-One of the propellers is an Ed Sterba and is 70 long with 80
pitch. This would, I think, be a great cruise prop and even though I
probably won't get full RPM on takeoff it's not like I'm lacking in the HP
dept. This one looks to be in great shape with a nice finish, no
delamination and only a slight depression in the front of the hub where the
crush plate goes. It does not have the inserts glued into the bolt holes
and is the most likely candidate for my purchase. Any thoughts about the
Manufacturer or....the length/pitch combo or....anything else....???
The other propeller has no brand name on it but also looks to be in great
shape with a nice finish and no delamination but does have the inserts in
the bolt holes. Its only discernable markings are numbers stamped into the
hub that read 68-76-64. I measured it and it is 68 inches long so I suspect
that's what the first number is for. I assume the second number is the pitch
but what's with the third number? I thought propellers were characterized
by only two numbers?
Any general thoughts on wood propellers would be greatly appreciated since I
know virtually nothing about them. Should I give one of these a try or just
order one from a carver? If these are no good can anyone recommend an
establisher prop maker with a good reputation for reliability and service?
Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Cowling and wiring
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Need advice on wood props. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I can answer some of your questions.
If the holes line up but are too small, then the prop is designed for an
O-320 with 7/16 prop lugs. The O-360 uses 1/2 inch lugs. You could
theoretically drill out the holes to the right size, but the prop, if
designed for a 320 is probably underpitched for a 360.
Ed Sterba makes a great wood prop, and he is a great guy to deal with.
He's glad to talk to you as the owner of a second hand prop. I started
out with one of his props (obtained second hand) flew it for the first
year, about 150 hours, then sold it to another RV Lister for almost
exactly what I paid for it. FYI mine was a 70X82, and I'd say that was
just a bit underpitched for a cruise prop, so 70X80 is definitely
underpitched. It was a great all-around prop, just slightly
underpitched for a pure cruise prop. My engine setup is nearly
identical to yours except for the builder.
I sold my Sterba because I needed something which was more durable in
rain, but if that were not an issue, I'd still have it.
Used wood props can be had in the $500 range all the time. There's a
Warnke O-360 prop for sale on the VAF classifieds right now for $450,
with spinner, bolts, extension and crush plate.
FWIW- I thought having a wood prop for the first year while I was
learning to land this thing would be a good idea. A prop strike with a
wood prop is a write-off of the $500 prop and not much else. A prop
strike with a metal prop is a helluva lot more $$$. Fortunately I never
had to put this to the test. YMMV ;)
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV9-A Fuel line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I would like to perhaps clear up some confusion about the gascolator. I
have read several posts that suggest or imply the gascolator is not a
filter. As I look at mine apart, it has a very fine mess screen in it. I
would call that a filter. I don't see how anything of any size could make
it past it. It has a large reservator below the screen where heavy debris
could fall and would be easily spit out when the drain valve is pushed. If
you use a typical inline filter, you should install them on the high
pressure side of the fuel pump to avoid sucking air into the fuel line in
case of a problem with the filter. Use metal cartridge filter holders
rather than the plastic see through type.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers
that it can bribe the public with the public's own money."
Alexis de Toqueville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV9-A Fuel line
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
>
>>I want to drill the hole in the firewall for the fuel line bulkhead
>>fitting.
>>On the engine side this fitting will connect to the Andair gascolator.
>
> Have you discussed with smarter people than myself about using fuel
> filters instead of a gascolator?
>
> Ron Lee
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Need advice on wood props. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
I can't help with your basic questions but if you decide to order
I suggest a Catto three blade prop. Another RV-6A runs along
side me and runs about 100 rpm less at the same airspeed and
climbs better than my Aymar-Demuth wood prop.
Ron Lee
Message 5
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| Subject: | Alternator Cooling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I've been working out how to cool my Van's 35 amp alternator & would like to bounce
these ideas off all you guys noggins.
I'm running a standard Van's corrugated blast tube from an 11/16 hole in the floor
of the right air intake baffle to an 11/16 hole in the aft alternator cover.
The remainder of the aft cover, which is roughly disk shaped and perforated
with a lot of 1/4" holes, is sealed on the inside with UHMW tape so the entering
air is forced to flow out the small side gaps and the large front opening
of the alternator. I've taped up the various openings to verify that air can
in fact flow this way by blowing in the hose at the back.
Two potential problems have been worrying me. First, I might be fighting the natural
flow of air from front to back which could result in poorer rather than
better cooling. I'm just assuming the air in the vicinity of the alternator
is relatively stagnant. In addition, I've made a 3 5/8" pulley to replace the
small standard pulley so the alternator's front opening is completely masked
by the pulley which is about 1/2" in front of the alternator body.
Second, cooling air is entering on one side of the disk at the rear of the alternator.
Will enough air flow to the sides to cool the alternator the whole way
around or will hot spots develop opposite the air entry point because the perforated
cover has been sealed? What about operation on the ground waiting to
depart when little air is forced into the cowl?
Well, that's it. Any ideas appreciated. By the way, day VFR load on the electrical
system is 10 amps, night 18 amps exclusive of battery charging or intermittent
loads and the engine is an O360 A1A.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Cooling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Ground ops: install a mini AC unit that blows air on the alternator
Seems that blowing on the front into the unit is adequate. One guy
here does it that way. I have no additional cooling and have not had
a failure...although cooling air cannot hurt.
PS...I was kidding about the AC unit. Seems that operation is limited
in duration and should not be a worry. On start up the engine is rather
cool and if you gradually reduce power 10 minutes or so from landing
that will reduce the engine temp substantially.
Another thought is that if the alternator is cheap...just replace it every
three years or so before it can fail.
Ron Lee
Message 7
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| Subject: | Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
Rick L
N512RM - reserved
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 07/03 4:01, Richard Leach wrote:
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
> and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
> empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
> the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
> project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
> a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
> method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
> tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
You could buy two countersinks (or more) one each for #30 and #40...
A fairly inexpensive way to cut time.
Speaking of time, I got my Airworthiness Cert. today after
two dedicated years of building. But, I had zero honey do's :)
A little every day makes a big difference.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Can't help with the honey do's. It's part of the price we pay and just
seems worse because of the desire to get building. But on the
countersinks you can make your life easier by buying extra cages so you
only have to adjust each once and they're ready to go as soon as you
chuck them up in the drill.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach"
> <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's
> will slow down and the building process will pick up. Seams
> that ever since the empennage came, the honey do list is
> bigger. I am making progress on the emp but it is going
> slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a project to take
> much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling, a
> question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial
> and error method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using
> the micro countersink tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a
> quicker way to set the gauge?
>
> Rick L
> N512RM - reserved
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 13:01:07 2005-07-03 "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net> wrote:
> When I countersink, I have been using the
> trial and error method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the
> micro countersink tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way
> to set the gauge?
I set mine trial-and-error, but I try to batch up the countersinking so I
don't have to switch from #30 to #40 and back that often. I also do it on
the actual part, and trial-and-error it down to the right point. I have
yet to overshoot, but it does take patience as you're getting close.
-Rob
Message 11
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| Subject: | Mike Shields Atlantic Crossing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Embree <rembree@sympatico.ca>
Mike Shields completed the first leg of his trans-Atlantic trip this
morning flying from Hamilton to Halifax.
For those insterested in keeping track of Mike, he is posting daily
updates on his web site.
http://www.c-goju.com/Europe_2005/TransAtlantic.htm
You can read more about C-GOJU here too.
http://www.c-goju.com/
CHCH TV11 news did a little story on his trip.
http://rapidshare.de/files/2665620/gojuch.mpg.html
click on the above link and scroll down the list to the FREE download
button, another window will load and scroll down to the bottom and click
on the GOJUch.mpg.html file. This is a MPeg of the news broadcast last
week.
Roger Embree
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Speaking of time, I got my Airworthiness Cert. today after
> two dedicated years of building. But, I had zero honey do's :)
Congratulations, Walter!!!
When's the first flight?
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | ESPN Camera ship |
Received-SPF: none
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
I just got home from a full day of flying around as a camera ship for ESPN. Our
EAA Chapter had been involved with a spot for a series on ESPN called "Timeless".
They are doing a show on aerobatic competition involving a wide variety
of pilots and planes. They needed in-flight shots for the show and I got to
use my RV-8 as the camera platform. We flew all afternoon and shot a ton of video
which will be edited down to about thirty seconds. It was an interesting
experience and a lot of fun. I have flown a lot of loose formation flying over
the years and some very tight formation flying...but this was the first time
I flew formation with the other plane inverted. The episode will be on ESPN2
on July 23rd at 11:30 a.m. and ESPN on the 24th (not sure about the time). It
was definitely an interesting way to spend a Sunday Afternoon.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
150+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: First Start-Up |
--> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
Hi Jerry,
Glad it all worked out...Let us know how the first flight goes!
Hal Benjamin
RV-4 Fuselage
Long Island, NY
Do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | USB powered GPS with iPaq?? |
1.30 UNDISC_RECIPS Valid-looking To "undisclosed-recipients"
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
USB cable with an iPaq?
Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
lagniappe.
I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? 1.30 UNDISC_RECIPS |
Valid-looking To "undisclosed-recipients"
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
I run Anywhere Map on an iPaq but use Garmin's bluetooth (wireless) GPS. It's
only like $100 through Anywhere.
--- Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
> USB cable with an iPaq?
>
> Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
> talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
> deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
> lagniappe.
>
> I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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