Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:03 AM - Re: Encouragement - Help (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
2. 05:05 AM - Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? (Tim Bryan)
3. 06:57 AM - Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? (Charlie England)
4. 06:58 AM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Bob Collins)
5. 07:32 AM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Charlie Kuss)
6. 07:48 AM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Tracy Crook)
7. 07:56 AM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Charlie Kuss)
8. 08:26 AM - [ThorpList] CGI Airshow (Charlie England)
9. 08:29 AM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Walter Tondu)
10. 08:48 AM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Jeff Dowling)
11. 10:19 AM - Re: Encouragement - Help (Tim Bryan)
12. 10:47 AM - Glare shield (Glen Matejcek)
13. 10:59 AM - Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) (Glen Matejcek)
14. 11:11 AM - Re: Glare shield (Ed Anderson)
15. 11:23 AM - Re: Hangar Rental (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
16. 11:30 AM - Re: Exhaust wrap (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
17. 12:04 PM - Re: Glare shield (Bob Perkinson)
18. 12:30 PM - Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
19. 12:30 PM - Re: Re: Exhaust wrap (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
20. 03:21 PM - Re: Encouragement - Help (alan@reichertech.com)
21. 04:14 PM - Re: Glare shield (Ed Anderson)
22. 04:17 PM - Re: Mike Shields Atlantic Crossing (Roger Embree)
23. 04:41 PM - Re: Glare shield (Bob Perkinson)
24. 10:47 PM - Re: Encouragement - Help (HCRV6@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by:
Rick,
I sort of eyeball the countersink undersize than adjust by trial and error
with a real rivet until I get it just right. I also sense how hard I press
down on the drill since that can affect the countersink depth somewhat.
As for getting the project done, tell yourself that for a standard kit it is
2000 to 4000 hours. Also work in parts and pieces. Every time you get
something done, that's something which does not need doing any more. Don't
look at the big picture - just look at little things that need to get done,
like making a part, like deburing a bunch of ribs. Every time you finish
something - that something takes you that much closer to the finished
airplane. Also, try to work on your plane every day, if only an hour, you'd
be amazed how much these hours add up and help you get the project
completed.
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Leach
> Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 10:01 PM
> To: RV list; owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
> and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
> empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
> the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
> project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
> a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
> method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
> tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>
> Rick L
> N512RM - reserved
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
Charlie, Is the iPaq Bluetooth? You can get the Garmin 10 (I think) that
doesn't need a cable. Pretty sure the same one available used by Vision
control with the anywhere map.
-------Original Message-------
From: Charlie England
Valid-looking To "undisclosed-recipients"
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
USB cable with an iPaq?
Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
lagniappe.
I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Charlie England wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
>Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
>USB cable with an iPaq?
>
>Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
>talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
>deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
>lagniappe.
>
>I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
Just got a reply from another list; there's a product on the market that
works off the usb port of an iPaq. Here's the link to their usb powered
gps engine:
http://www.pcavionics.com/custserv/usb_gps_specs.jsp
This means that it should be do-able with pretty much any usb gps, some
connectors & soldering skills.
Charlie
Message 4
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| Subject: | Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
The problem I had with the countersink cage is that the word "microstop"
connoted precision and consistency. (g) You get it set perfectly on a scrap
piece and then you zip through three holes and ... Voila! Three different
holes. So now I just save time by eyeballing each one. Sometimes I go just a
tad too far, more often I don't go far enough. But in the end it gets done
OK.
As far as encouragement, as a low-builder, IGNORE where everyone else is on
their plane and how fast they're getting there. This is harder than it
sounds because we are not conditioned to this. Forget about the ads, forget
about the little number at the bottom of your construction log (total
hours). It'll get done when it gets done. You don't think about how long
the golf game is taking, do you? When you're playing with the kids, you
don't think, "gee everyone else plays with their kids for an hour a day and
it's taking me two?" (g) Seriously, the building portion is fun.
Challengine? Sure, so is a dogleg right par 5. But it's still fun.
Don't focus on how long it takes. Focus on whether you're enjoying it. If
you are: lather-rinse-repeat.
Bob
St. Paul
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Leach
> Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 10:01 PM
> To: RV list; owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach"
> --> <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow
> down and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
> empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
> the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
> project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done
> sniveling, a question: When I countersink, I have been using the
> trial and error method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the
> micro countersink tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way
> to set the gauge?
>
> Rick L
> N512RM - reserved
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Rick,
All the previous advise you've received has been excellent. If you can't
afford a 2nd countersink cage, do the following.
Install your #40 C/S bit and adjust it as needed. Paint a line (I used red
paint) on the cage's adjustment ring (in line with the zero line). Add a
dab of this same color paint to your C/S bit.
Repeat this operation with your other C/S bits. Mark the setting point for
each one with a different color paint. Once you have marked the set points,
you can change bits back and forth and simply reset the cage to your
designated set points. If you don't have appropriate paints, steal your
wife's nail polish.
Charlie Kuss
PS Don't get caught robbing the nail polish. The "honey do" list will only
get longer! ;-)
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>
>Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
>and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
>empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
>the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
>project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
>a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
>method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
>tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>
>Rick L
>N512RM - reserved
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
It does get done if you work on it regularly. My slow-build -4 took 2 years 4
months to complete. My 'quick build' -8 is at 4 years & counting. The difference
is that I worked on the -4 a little every day. My mantra was always "Every
rivet IS the airplane".
Yep, your eyeball will soon be properly calibrated to the proper CC depth. The
tool only gets you in the ball park.
do not archive
Tracy Crook
>
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow
> down and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
> empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
> the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
> project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done
> sniveling, a question: When I countersink, I have been using the
> trial and error method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the
> micro countersink tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way
> to set the gauge?
>
> Rick L
> N512RM - reserved
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Rick,
Another way to speed up setting your C/S cage is to use a Dial Vernier
Caliper set (if you own one). Set the C/S slightly shallow. Machine the
test C/S in scrap. Drop in a rivet. The end of your Dial Verniers opposite
the measuring jaws can be used like a depth micrometer. Open the jaws
slightly. Place the housing of the Dial Verniers (opposite the jaws end)
onto the rivet firmly. The toothed rack of the Verniers will be pushed
closed as it meets the skin/rib/spar. Read the measurement on the Dial
Vernier and add that amount to the depth setting on the Verniers. Each
small line on the C/S cage equals 0.001". On my C/S cage, one complete turn
of the drum equals 0.025" You must support the rivet during the measuring
operation using your other hand. Otherwise, the Dial Verniers will tilt the
rivet head slightly. That tilt will throw off the measurement. I simply
grasp the shank of the rivet between my thumb and fore finger to support
the rivet while I measure. I hope this helps.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>
>Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
>and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
>empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
>the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
>project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
>a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
>method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
>tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>
>Rick L
>N512RM - reserved
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Free admission, possible door prize & free fuel home. What_a_concept &
interesting contrast with homebuilt treatment at that big event further
north later this month...
Charlie
-------- Original Message --------
| Subject: | [ThorpList] CGI Airshow |
From: jeffery d houseman <midstatesaviation@juno.com>
Hey Gary and the rest of you,
Just wanted to remind everyone about the Cape Girardeau Airshow, coming
up July 8, 9, and 10. Everyone who flys in in an experimental and
prize (GPS Map 96 or Sigtronics portable intercom), plus get your fuel
topped off. You can't beat a deal like that! Friday night will feature
Bill Leff and some night parachute drops then a hanger dance. Saturday
show starts at 11am until 3pm, and Sunday is from 1 until 5.
Friday the field is closed from 2 until 4pm for practice then again for
the show from 7pm til 9pm.
If you need help finding a room or transportation, let me know. And if
you do fly-in, just tell the tower after you land that you want to park
with the experimentals on the east ramp.
Sure would like to see a few T-18's
For more info check out www.capeairfestival.com
ps. I cant garantee hanger space in case of weather, but I'm sure I could
find room for a couple.
Fly-safe
Dean Houseman
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 07/03 5:44, Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > Speaking of time, I got my Airworthiness Cert. today after
> > two dedicated years of building. But, I had zero honey do's :)
>
> Congratulations, Walter!!!
>
> When's the first flight?
Start flying "regular" airplanes this week. Then
transition training then first flight. I've got two issues
though. First my dad insists on being here. Complicating
matters is that I have to be in Michigan (and my dad) at
the end of July for one week.
I dunno yet, but soon. Feels good to get to this point though...
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
You can always use your deburring tool. You'll be surprised how quickly you
can calibrate your eye.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Rick,
> Another way to speed up setting your C/S cage is to use a Dial Vernier
> Caliper set (if you own one). Set the C/S slightly shallow. Machine the
> test C/S in scrap. Drop in a rivet. The end of your Dial Verniers opposite
> the measuring jaws can be used like a depth micrometer. Open the jaws
> slightly. Place the housing of the Dial Verniers (opposite the jaws end)
> onto the rivet firmly. The toothed rack of the Verniers will be pushed
> closed as it meets the skin/rib/spar. Read the measurement on the Dial
> Vernier and add that amount to the depth setting on the Verniers. Each
> small line on the C/S cage equals 0.001". On my C/S cage, one complete
> turn
> of the drum equals 0.025" You must support the rivet during the
> measuring
> operation using your other hand. Otherwise, the Dial Verniers will tilt
> the
> rivet head slightly. That tilt will throw off the measurement. I simply
> grasp the shank of the rivet between my thumb and fore finger to support
> the rivet while I measure. I hope this helps.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>>
>>Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
>>and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
>>empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
>>the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
>>project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
>>a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
>>method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
>>tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>>
>>Rick L
>>N512RM - reserved
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
I did mine all this way. Couldn't deal with the micro stop inconsistency
Tim
DNA
-------Original Message-------
From: Jeff Dowling
Subject: Re: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
You can always use your deburring tool. You'll be surprised how quickly you
can calibrate your eye.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Rick,
> Another way to speed up setting your C/S cage is to use a Dial Vernier
> Caliper set (if you own one). Set the C/S slightly shallow. Machine the
> test C/S in scrap. Drop in a rivet. The end of your Dial Verniers opposite
> the measuring jaws can be used like a depth micrometer. Open the jaws
> slightly. Place the housing of the Dial Verniers (opposite the jaws end)
> onto the rivet firmly. The toothed rack of the Verniers will be pushed
> closed as it meets the skin/rib/spar. Read the measurement on the Dial
> Vernier and add that amount to the depth setting on the Verniers. Each
> small line on the C/S cage equals 0.001". On my C/S cage, one complete
> turn
> of the drum equals 0.025" You must support the rivet during the
> measuring
> operation using your other hand. Otherwise, the Dial Verniers will tilt
> the
> rivet head slightly. That tilt will throw off the measurement. I simply
> grasp the shank of the rivet between my thumb and fore finger to support
> the rivet while I measure. I hope this helps.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>>
>>Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
>>and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
>>empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
>>the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
>>project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
>>a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
>>method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
>>tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>>
>>Rick L
>>N512RM - reserved
>>
>>
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi All-
Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im concerned that
if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the edge of the glare shield
sheet metal would cut right through the padding and scalp me, or worse. My
tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe or aluminum tube and mount
it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in itself should cause the glare shield
to buckle before my noggin got peeled, and Im also considering padding the
tube before wrapping it in cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water
pipe insulation on the seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater.
Have any of you fine folks gone down this path?
gm
Glen Matejcek
Message 13
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| Subject: | Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic coatings,
but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread. What
happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand
that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction
/ heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes warm
in the wintertime. Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Glare shield |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Exactly the approach I took, Glen
I used several feet of 1/2" thick wall aluminum tube, split down one side
and slid over the metal of the glare shield. Then wrapped it in some high
density foam and then with vinyl to hold the foam in place - looks nice to
boot.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
> --> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi All-
>
> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the edge
> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
> fine folks gone down this path?
>
> gm
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Hangar Rental |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Nigel...
I asked this question of Ken Scott over at Van's, and he said: "Don't put it
in a hangar unless you could taxi it there." We have a flying RV6a hangared,
and building one in the garage, and working in the garage is soooo much
easier!!! IMO...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville OR
In a message dated 7/1/2005 12:04:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
From: Nigel Goad <sirlegin@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: Hangar Rental
--> RV-List message posted by: Nigel Goad <sirlegin@sbcglobal.net>
My quickbuild fuselage and wings have arrived, I need a rough idea as to the
amount
of working hours until the wings are final attached so I can sort out timing
for hangar rental.
Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
I think for the racing guys, the benefit of ceramic is largely for
turbocharged engines. The object is to conserve heat (energy) to run the compressor
stage.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
> Just my 02$'s worth - If you put a heat barrier on the outside of the
> exhaust pipe, the metal will run hotter than not putting a heat barrier
[snip]
> That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
There's a ton of stuff about ceramic coating and exhaust wrap in the
archives,
going back to '95. Personally after reading all of that I think KISS is the
best
principle. I'm happy with my vetterman SS exhaust system -- did have a crack
once in 670 hrs but it was easy to get off and get welded, no other
complaints.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R
Oregon
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Ed,
How did you go about splitting the tube.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Exactly the approach I took, Glen
I used several feet of 1/2" thick wall aluminum tube, split down one side
and slid over the metal of the glare shield. Then wrapped it in some high
density foam and then with vinyl to hold the foam in place - looks nice to
boot.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
> --> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi All-
>
> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the edge
> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
> fine folks gone down this path?
>
> gm
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
You would probably also want to get your EGT locations set prior to the
coating to maintain the integrity of the ceramic. You can always take
heat from an oil cooler also.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
--> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic
coatings, but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated
exhaust thread. What happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating
on your exhaust? I understand that there is a difference between
radiating IR and direct conduction / heat transfer, but I have no idea
what this implies for keeping our toes warm in the wintertime.
Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Actually, it's supposed to do a couple of things. One is to keep the
engine compartment from cooking, which has a side effect of allowing for
cooler intake temps, which means more dense intake air, which means more
HP. Second is to keep the exhaust gases hot, which keeps the exhaust
velocity up, which aids in scavenging, which means more HP.
In turbo applications, heat is bad and I believe they now coat many of
the internal turbo components with ceramics to reduce the effects of
heat soak, but it also allows the heat to remain in the exhaust gasses
which again keeps the exhaust velocity up which is good.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jerry2DT@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
I think for the racing guys, the benefit of ceramic is largely for
turbocharged engines. The object is to conserve heat (energy) to run the
compressor stage.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
> Just my 02$'s worth - If you put a heat barrier on the outside of the
> exhaust pipe, the metal will run hotter than not putting a heat
> barrier
[snip]
> That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
There's a ton of stuff about ceramic coating and exhaust wrap in the
archives, going back to '95. Personally after reading all of that I
think KISS is the best principle. I'm happy with my vetterman SS
exhaust system -- did have a crack once in 670 hrs but it was easy to
get off and get welded, no other complaints.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R
Oregon
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | RE: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
>
> Time: 01:02:24 PM PST US
> From: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
> and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
> empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
> the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
> project to take much longer than planned.
Well, in my case the honey-do list still exists, but my wife understands
my need to work on the big aluminum project in the basement. My holdup
came from having to move Dad after some health problems, but I've finally
gotten back to work on it. Just try to work on it a little each day if
you can. Avoid long dry spells if you can.
I'm figuring on 4 years for mine, barring any further big interruptions!
> Now that I am done sniveling,
> a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
> method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
> tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
As others have already said, get a countersink cage for each cutter size.
I do, but I also back mine off slightly when I store them. That way, the
cage is set to undercut slightly. Then, whenever I get ready to do a
countersink run, I set the first hole trial-and-error, then have at it.
Works for me.
> Rick L
> N512RM - reserved
>
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Glare shield |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Hi Bob,
I put a blade in a dremel tool and laid it on a block of wood the right
height and moved it along over the tube. The metal diamond-dust-coated
little thin blades you can find at Harbor Freight worked just fine.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Glare shield
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
>
> Ed,
> How did you go about splitting the tube.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A N658RP Reserved
> If nothing changes
> Nothing changes
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Exactly the approach I took, Glen
>
> I used several feet of 1/2" thick wall aluminum tube, split down one side
> and slid over the metal of the glare shield. Then wrapped it in some high
> density foam and then with vinyl to hold the foam in place - looks nice to
> boot.
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Hi All-
>>
>> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
>> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the
>> edge
>> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
>> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
>> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
>> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
>> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
>> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
>> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
>> fine folks gone down this path?
>>
>> gm
>>
>>
>> Glen Matejcek
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Mike Shields Atlantic Crossing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Embree <rembree@sympatico.ca>
Mike has left Goose Bay and is on the way to Iceland.
http://www.ontariorvators.org
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Thanks Ed
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Hi Bob,
I put a blade in a dremel tool and laid it on a block of wood the right
height and moved it along over the tube. The metal diamond-dust-coated
little thin blades you can find at Harbor Freight worked just fine.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Glare shield
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
>
> Ed,
> How did you go about splitting the tube.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A N658RP Reserved
> If nothing changes
> Nothing changes
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Exactly the approach I took, Glen
>
> I used several feet of 1/2" thick wall aluminum tube, split down one side
> and slid over the metal of the glare shield. Then wrapped it in some high
> density foam and then with vinyl to hold the foam in place - looks nice to
> boot.
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Hi All-
>>
>> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
>> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the
>> edge
>> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
>> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
>> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
>> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
>> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
>> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
>> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
>> fine folks gone down this path?
>>
>> gm
>>
>>
>> Glen Matejcek
>>
>>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 7/3/05 1:43:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, walter@tondu.com
writes:
> Speaking of time, I got my Airworthiness Cert. today after two dedicated
> years of building
And I got mine last fall after ten years of building interspersed with lots
of honey do's, moving from one side of the country to the other, etc., etc.,
and it is worth every damn minute it took!
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 98 hours and heading to Arlington next week if the weather Gods
smile.
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