Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:15 AM - FW: RV6A wings on Ebay (Zeidman, Richard B)
2. 04:35 AM - EIS (Steve Glasgow)
3. 05:02 AM - Re:Glare shield (Oldsfolks@AOL.COM)
4. 05:50 AM - Re: Glare shield (Jeff Dowling)
5. 05:55 AM - Glare shield (Glen Matejcek)
6. 05:59 AM - Exhaust wrap (Glen Matejcek)
7. 07:44 AM - Re: Need advice on wood props. (rv6fly)
8. 08:24 AM - Re: lockwashers on Odyssey battery terminals? (Bill Dube)
9. 08:28 AM - Re: EIS (Hal Kempthorne)
10. 08:59 AM - Painting the canopy (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
11. 08:59 AM - Padding on glare Shield...WAS: RV4 N3074T Crash (Hull, Don)
12. 09:13 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Tim Bryan)
13. 09:45 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
14. 11:08 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Tim Bryan)
15. 04:48 PM - Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation (Bill Hood)
16. 05:19 PM - Rolling the Rudder Leading Edge (MLWynn@aol.com)
17. 06:04 PM - Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation (LarryRobertHelming)
18. 07:03 PM - Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation (Kevin Horton)
19. 07:52 PM - Re: Painting the canopy (N67BT@aol.com)
20. 08:32 PM - Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation (flynlow)
21. 09:03 PM - Re: EIS (HCRV6@aol.com)
22. 09:31 PM - Re: Glare shield (Don Diehl)
Message 1
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| Subject: | FW: RV6A wings on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Zeidman, Richard B" <richard.b.zeidman@boeing.com>
Subject: RV6A wings on Ebay
RV Listers-
For any of you real slow builders. I just listed my wings and main
landing gear from my RV6A on ebay. You can find it under ebay motors,
aircraft, projects/experimental. The outboard 24 inches of the left wing
was damaged in a forced landing last month. The right wing and LG appear
to be OK.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=63679&
item=4560188651&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
If you are interested and have any questions, I can be reached at
richpatzeidman@comcast.net or richard.b.zeidman@boeing.com.
Thanks,
Rich
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Has anyone else had problems with the Grand Rapids EIS 4000 cutting out?
Three times in less than 2 years mine has completely shut down (blank
screen). The fix so far has been to un-plug both wiring plugs on the back
of the instrument and plug back in.
What gives? Help!
Steve Glasgow
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy (220 hours)
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I did my RV-4 shield with aluminum tube,split as above, and pop riveted at
each end. I then painted to match the rest of the interior.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Glare shield |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Fabric shops sell molding already made for this for just a couple of bucks.
Its all in the archives somewhere.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
> --> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi All-
>
> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the edge
> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
> fine folks gone down this path?
>
> gm
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
>
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Thanks, Ed
Glen Matejcek
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Thanks Mike
Glen Matejcek
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Need advice on wood props. |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>I decided I would do my first flights with a wood prop and fly with one for
>a while before spending the big bucks on something metal. I was going to
>order a new one but have recently come across two used props that can be had
>for very good prices and supposedly will work on my airplane. Problem is,
>I'm not 100% sure they'll work on my plane and I don't know anything about
>wood props so I'm not sure if I'm looking at good deals or worthless junk.
>So any listers familiar with wood props that could give me some advice would
>be appreciated.
><Snip>
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Cowling and wiring
>
>
Dean,
I'd vote against your plan. First, I'd be nervous about buying any
wood prop without knowing everything there is to know about the prop.
The prop with the glued in inserts would be a big no-no to me. I
started out with a Props, Inc. wood prop on my RV6. A beautiful prop
but not pitched to give me the performance I was after. I sent it in 2
times to be re-pitched. Of course a more accurate statement would be
"re-shaped". When a metal prop is re-pitched, that is exactly what
happens. The airfoil shape of the prop remains the same. The angle of
attack of the prop airfoil is changed. When a wood prop is "re-pitched"
wood is removed and the prop shape changes as does the airfoil shape. I
finally put on the Sensenich.
Another thing we found out when trying to order a duplicate wood prop
is that it was really hit and miss. I helped a RV6A guy rebuild his
airplane after an "uh-oh" and he ordered a prop identical to the one
destroyed from Warnke. Airplane performance was nowhere close to what
it was with the previous prop and, after shipping the prop back & forth
a couple of times, it still didn't come close to the original prop.
I would go with the Sensenich prop built for RV's. Advantages in no
particular order of importance: you only have to fit the spinner once,
you don't have to figure weight and balance again, prop can easily and
repeatably be re-pitched and you can fly through precip without worrying
about the prop eroding.
One thing I would recommend to you (or any RVer) would be to have the
prop dynamically balanced. I did this on both my wood prop and my
Sensenich. The Props Inc. prop didn't take much weight to balance but
the Sensenich did. The Sensencih balanced perfectly statically but was
quite rough when compared to my balanced wood prop so I had it
dynamically balanced as well. I took two, #4 bolts, 4 large area
washers and 2 nuts in the ring gear to balance.
Bob Skinner RV6 (sold) (also built a Glasair and helped with 2 Glastar
projects and 4 or 5 RV projects)
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: lockwashers on Odyssey battery terminals? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
You should use "Belleville Washers". These are spring washers that
are shaped like a shallow cone. As the lead post slowly flows out from
under the bolt, the Belleville washer maintains the clamping force on the
connection. "Wave" type spring washers also work.
Put in "Belleville" in the search box at McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/
At 12:29 AM 7/2/2005, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>Ok, ignorant question....does anybody see a need to add a lockwasher to
>the battery terminal bolts? My PC-680 battery just came with a plain
>washer for each bolt, but no lockwasher. Seems like everything else on
>an airplane uses some sort of lockwasher, cotter pin, or self locking
>nut, so I'm wondering if this is an exception? No point in adding it if
>it ain't needed though....
Bill Dube'
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
There is a little computer in there with software. A bug has appeared and the
system has crashed. Reboot by shutting off the power and turning it back on.
Software needs a little work as it has been sent down some path to nowhere.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6-a Debonair sold!
Steve Glasgow <willfly@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow"
Has anyone else had problems with the Grand Rapids EIS 4000 cutting out?
Three times in less than 2 years mine has completely shut down (blank
screen). The fix so far has been to un-plug both wiring plugs on the back
of the instrument and plug back in.
What gives? Help!
Steve Glasgow
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy (220 hours)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I know this sounds dumb, who on earth would want to paint their canopy??
Well if you glue yours, there is a black strip of primer on the inside
at the top of the canopy bow on the slider portion.
An excellent picture here.
http://www.rv8.ch/images/articles/20050626222037648_7_original.JPG
When you shut the canopy, this ugly black strip across the top shows aft
of the fiberglass transition fairing along the top. I would like to
paint this my plane color and make it look nice.
Is there any reason I cant scuff the plexi, prime and paint?
I have never painted plexi before.
I suspect it will get a bit scratched up going under the fiberglass
strip when shutting. But the black does not look good.
Thanks
Mike
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV4 N3074T Crash |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
I'm with you, Bert. Some of us are old enough to remember when Detroit
started providing "padded dashboards" on new cars. Before that, there were
a lot of auto fatalities and head injuries (there were no seat belts either)
due to impacts with the "dashboard."
I too have noticed few RV's that have what I would consider to be sufficient
padding or protection on the glareshield edge. I'm not to the finishing kit
yet but I do plan to something there for protection.
Don
RV-7 emp
> >
> >Not that this makes any difference, but I can never understand, why
> >Rv
builders, never put any protection, padding on the glare-shield...I have
watched rv's where ever I go, to see how many do this.. I sayu a very few,
if I recall.
Tony Bengalis book,(one of them) mention this and even shows how to do this
very inexpensive, which I did on my RV6a.
Bert
Do NOt archive
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
I did exactly the same thing on my -6 I painted about an inch or so all the
way around the windscreen. Looks way better. I did get a little plexi
action on the edge but didn't go beyond the painted area. Probably depends
on the type of paint used.
Tim
N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RV-List: Painting the canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
I know this sounds dumb, who on earth would want to paint their canopy??
Well if you glue yours, there is a black strip of primer on the inside
at the top of the canopy bow on the slider portion.
An excellent picture here.
http://www.rv8.ch/images/articles/20050626222037648_7_original.JPG
When you shut the canopy, this ugly black strip across the top shows aft
of the fiberglass transition fairing along the top. I would like to
paint this my plane color and make it look nice.
Is there any reason I cant scuff the plexi, prime and paint?
I have never painted plexi before.
I suspect it will get a bit scratched up going under the fiberglass
strip when shutting. But the black does not look good.
Thanks
Mike
Do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
" plexi action on the edge"
What does this mean?
And how has the paint scraping under the fiberglass doing? Holding up?
Using felt strips or anything?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
I did exactly the same thing on my -6 I painted about an inch or so all
the
way around the windscreen. Looks way better. I did get a little plexi
action on the edge but didn't go beyond the painted area. Probably
depends
on the type of paint used.
Tim
N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RV-List: Painting the canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
I know this sounds dumb, who on earth would want to paint their canopy??
Well if you glue yours, there is a black strip of primer on the inside
at the top of the canopy bow on the slider portion.
An excellent picture here.
http://www.rv8.ch/images/articles/20050626222037648_7_original.JPG
When you shut the canopy, this ugly black strip across the top shows aft
of the fiberglass transition fairing along the top. I would like to
paint this my plane color and make it look nice.
Is there any reason I cant scuff the plexi, prime and paint?
I have never painted plexi before.
I suspect it will get a bit scratched up going under the fiberglass
strip when shutting. But the black does not look good.
Thanks
Mike
Do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
Hi Mike,
I painted on the inside of the plexi so not a factor with any scraping.
Also I am not flying yet (soon). I wasn't too clear about the plexi action
comment. The plexi must have reacted a little to the paint solvent as it
kind of wrinkled up a little. This only happened in a couple of places and
only where the paint was. Not visible now that I am not looking at it and
it is installed. Next time I might research what paint would be less likely
to react with or disolve the canopy plexi. No issues however.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RE: RV-List: Painting the canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
" plexi action on the edge"
What does this mean?
And how has the paint scraping under the fiberglass doing? Holding up?
Using felt strips or anything?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
I did exactly the same thing on my -6 I painted about an inch or so all
the
way around the windscreen. Looks way better. I did get a little plexi
action on the edge but didn't go beyond the painted area. Probably
depends
on the type of paint used.
Tim
N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RV-List: Painting the canopy
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
I know this sounds dumb, who on earth would want to paint their canopy??
Well if you glue yours, there is a black strip of primer on the inside
at the top of the canopy bow on the slider portion.
An excellent picture here.
http://www.rv8.ch/images/articles/20050626222037648_7_original.JPG
When you shut the canopy, this ugly black strip across the top shows aft
of the fiberglass transition fairing along the top. I would like to
paint this my plane color and make it look nice.
Is there any reason I cant scuff the plexi, prime and paint?
I have never painted plexi before.
I suspect it will get a bit scratched up going under the fiberglass
strip when shutting. But the black does not look good.
Thanks
Mike
Do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Hood" <hoodcom@sbcglobal.net>
I have been lurking, actually reading with great interest just about all of the
contrubutions to this list since I started building . I am working on the fuse
(RV-7) of what will become a great aircaft. Most all of my questions have
been answered, and I might add with great variety and detail...thanks to all!
The reason for this letter is related to noise, and cold but mostly noise, I live
in Texas. I have done a little research:
1) EAA Sport Aviation March, 2005, Aircraft Acoustics, in my opinion not much
meat.
2) George and Becki Ordodorf www.fly-gbi.com/FirewallInsulation.htm
3) http://soundproofing.org/ and a free booklet, free is always good, http://www.supersoundproofing.biz/index.html on this page scroll down to How to Soundproof Light Aircaft
Maybe I have just missed it, oor maybe the weight penalty is just to much, oor
we all just love our ANR headsets, but I have read little, on this subject,, on
this list,, which by the way is made up of the most astute pilots in the world!
So, to conclude, How about some real world knowledge from the best and brightest,
the only reason I say my plane is going to be great is because I read this
list, and learn, learn,learn.....thanks
Message 16
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| Subject: | Rolling the Rudder Leading Edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
I have spent several hours trying to get the rolled leading edge of my rudder
right. I used a 3/4" piece of electrical conduit. I started by rolling the
entire thing in one piece. Had some difficulty getting the tape even all the
way down. The part near the top worked fine with minimal hassel. Was
eventually able to get the middle section shaped properly but am having a very
difficult time with the lowest section. It is almost as if their is insufficient
metal to make a smooth bend, meeting in the middle.
At any rate, once I got everything curled, then stretching it to meet in the
middle was difficult and the edges are curled under--failing to make a nice
overlap.
Suggestions on this?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Bill, I got mine from Flightline Interiors. Cockpit floor is foam material
that absorbs sound of exhaust and the firewall insulation cuts the heat and
noise. Here is contact info.
http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/
I am just a happy customer of theirs. I turn the noise canceling part of my
Lightspeeds off and do not find the noise uncomfortable. I liked it that
way during my phase 1 tests so I could hear the engine better in case it
made any funny or not so funny sounds. There are still some unpleasant
sounds however when working off of turf runways/taxiways due to it not being
smooth and the oil canning sound.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Hood" <hoodcom@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I have been lurking, actually reading with great interest just about all
> of the contrubutions to this list since I started building . I am
> working on the fuse (RV-7) of what will become a great aircaft. Most all
> of my questions have been answered, and I might add with great variety and
> detail...thanks to all!
>
> The reason for this letter is related to noise, and cold but mostly noise,
> I live in Texas. I have done a little research:
>
> 1) EAA Sport Aviation March, 2005, Aircraft Acoustics, in my opinion
> not much meat.
> 2) George and Becki Ordodorf www.fly-gbi.com/FirewallInsulation.htm
> 3) http://soundproofing.org/ and a free booklet, free is always
> good, http://www.supersoundproofing.biz/index.html on this page scroll
> down to How to Soundproof Light Aircaft
>
> Maybe I have just missed it, oor maybe the weight penalty is just to much,
> oor we all just love our ANR headsets, but I have read little, on this
> subject,, on this list,, which by the way is made up of the most astute
> pilots in the world!
>
> So, to conclude, How about some real world knowledge from the best and
> brightest, the only reason I say my plane is going to be great is because
> I read this list, and learn, learn,learn.....thanks
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 5 Jul 2005, at 19:46, Bill Hood wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Hood" <hoodcom@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I have been lurking, actually reading with great interest just
> about all of the contrubutions to this list since I started
> building . I am working on the fuse (RV-7) of what will become a
> great aircaft. Most all of my questions have been answered, and I
> might add with great variety and detail...thanks to all!
>
> The reason for this letter is related to noise, and cold but mostly
> noise, I live in Texas. I have done a little research:
>
> 1) EAA Sport Aviation March, 2005, Aircraft Acoustics, in my
> opinion not much meat.
> 2) George and Becki Ordodorf www.fly-gbi.com/
> FirewallInsulation.htm
> 3) http://soundproofing.org/ and a free booklet, free is
> always good, http://www.supersoundproofing.biz/index.html on
> this page scroll down to How to Soundproof Light Aircaft
>
> Maybe I have just missed it, oor maybe the weight penalty is just
> to much, oor we all just love our ANR headsets, but I have read
> little, on this subject,, on this list,, which by the way is made
> up of the most astute pilots in the world!
>
> So, to conclude, How about some real world knowledge from the best
> and brightest, the only reason I say my plane is going to be great
> is because I read this list, and learn, learn,learn.....thanks
>
>
I don't have any specific recommendations, but one thing to keep in
mind is flammability. I bought some BK14100 acoustic and thermal
insulation from Wicks, and was quite distressed to see that it really
burnt when I touched it with the flame from a propane torch. It
burned very quickly, with lots of thick black smoke. It eventually
self-extinguished after I removed the flame, but it took some time.
I'm looking for something else to put in my aircraft.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
<>
Mike,
I wondered the same thing as I want to paint the inside of the windscreen
the hide the fiberglass molding. This is not quite the same situation as I
will just use black and don't need to match a color.
Anyway, I bought some satin black Krylon Fusion spray paint at Walmart and
tried it on some scraps. It doesn't need a primer. It dried quickly but took
about a week to set up hard. There were no apparent changes to the Plexi.
I even called the toll free number on the can and asked the representative if
there were any problems painting Plexiglas. Although his answer wasn't all
that convincing, "there shouldn't be a problem", I plan to use it.
Bob Trumpfheller
Message 20
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| Subject: | acoustical and thremal insuluation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Has anyone every used the spray can foam insulation? Does it harm or protect
aluminum? Just Curious.
Bud Silvers
Black Forest, Colorado
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Hood
Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Hood" <hoodcom@sbcglobal.net>
I have been lurking, actually reading with great interest just about all of
the contrubutions to this list since I started building . I am working on
the fuse (RV-7) of what will become a great aircaft. Most all of my
questions have been answered, and I might add with great variety and
detail...thanks to all!
The reason for this letter is related to noise, and cold but mostly noise, I
live in Texas. I have done a little research:
1) EAA Sport Aviation March, 2005, Aircraft Acoustics, in my opinion not
much meat.
2) George and Becki Ordodorf www.fly-gbi.com/FirewallInsulation.htm
3) http://soundproofing.org/ and a free booklet, free is always
good, http://www.supersoundproofing.biz/index.html on this page scroll down
to How to Soundproof Light Aircaft
Maybe I have just missed it, oor maybe the weight penalty is just to much,
oor we all just love our ANR headsets, but I have read little, on this
subject,, on this list,, which by the way is made up of the most astute
pilots in the world!
So, to conclude, How about some real world knowledge from the best and
brightest, the only reason I say my plane is going to be great is because I
read this list, and learn, learn,learn.....thanks
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 7/5/05 4:37:01 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
willfly@carolina.rr.com writes:
> Has anyone else had problems with the Grand Rapids EIS 4000 cutting out?
>
> I HAVE ALMOST 100 HOURS ON MINE SO FAR AND IT'S WORKING GREAT. I'D GIVE
> THEM A CALL RIGHT AWAY. GREG AND SANDY ARE ALWAYS EAGER TO HELP.
>
> HARRY CROSBY
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Glare shield |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Diehl <diehldon@comcast.net>
The glare shield for my RV-4 was quick, simple, safe, effective and
CHEAP.
At the local upholstery shop I got a scrap of 3/16 closed cell foam,
soft enough to bend but too soft to hold its shape.
I also got a scrap of black velour.
Using a cardboard template I cut a piece of the foam to the desired
shield shape.
Then cut another, slightly larger.
I bowed the two slightly to shape and provide a bit of rigidity then
cemented them together.
The black velour was cemented on top and around the aft edge.
The cover is "secured" with a couple of pieces of double sided tape.
It's worked perfectly for more than 300 hours.
Contact me off line if you want photos.
Don Diehl
Bremerton WA
N-28EW
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