Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:46 AM - Re: EIS ()
2. 07:29 AM - Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation (Karen and Robert Brown)
3. 07:31 AM - Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht)
4. 07:49 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Mickey Coggins)
5. 08:03 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Jeff Dowling)
6. 08:32 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Hal Kempthorne)
7. 08:35 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Bob C.)
8. 08:38 AM - Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation (Hal Kempthorne)
9. 08:41 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Hal Kempthorne)
10. 08:45 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht)
11. 08:48 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (John Danielson)
12. 08:48 AM - DAR Inspection Video (Walter Tondu)
13. 09:35 AM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net)
14. 09:55 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Glaeser, Dennis A)
15. 10:15 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Joseph Larson)
16. 10:19 AM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (Terry Watson)
17. 10:36 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
18. 10:42 AM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
19. 10:48 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? ()
20. 10:48 AM - Re: Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht)
21. 11:21 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Bob C.)
22. 11:38 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Chris W)
23. 11:55 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Hal Kempthorne)
24. 12:11 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht)
25. 12:21 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Mark Grieve)
26. 12:54 PM - Re: Painting the canopy (Joseph Larson)
27. 12:57 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht)
28. 01:38 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
29. 01:39 PM - Fuel inj. exhaust heat muff (George Inman)
30. 01:41 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (PJ Seipel)
31. 01:54 PM - Garmin -396 (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
32. 03:06 PM - Bolts for Bendix throtle unit (George Inman)
33. 03:23 PM - Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation (Kyle Boatright)
34. 04:51 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? ()
35. 05:22 PM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (RV6 Flyer)
36. 05:44 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (linn walters)
37. 06:03 PM - Arlington NW EAA airshow ()
38. 06:30 PM - Re: Garmin -396 (Henry Hochberg)
39. 06:47 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
40. 07:06 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Bob Collins)
41. 08:12 PM - Re: Painting the canopy (N67BT@aol.com)
42. 08:33 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Jason Beaver)
43. 09:10 PM - Re: Garmin -396 (Nick Nafsinger)
44. 09:20 PM - RV Grinning (finally!) (Marty)
45. 10:08 PM - Tablesaw? Was Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (MLWynn@aol.com)
46. 11:38 PM - Re: Painting the canopy (rv6n6r@comcast.net)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Call Grand Rapids, you are apparently experiencing a very rare problem, as the
EIS (engine info system) is very reliable and I have never heard of any complaints.
There are thousands of these out there and has been around for well over
10 years with an excellent reputation for reliability.
Yes there is a micro processor in the EIS and software but not in the sense of
a PC and Windows, it is burned into the chip. The chip and code have been around
for a long time with an excellent reputation. Not sure what "path to nowhere"
means, but Greg and Sandy will hook you up. It could be anything from a bad
chip or even your harness wiring.
Again this is the most reliable experimental engine monitors around. Call GRT
and they will take care of you. They have great customer service from my experience
with them over 10 years.
Cheers George
>Subject: Re: EIS
> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
There is a little computer in there with software. A bug has appeared and
the
system has crashed. Reboot by shutting off the power and turning it back
on.
Software needs a little work as it has been sent down some path to nowhere.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6-a Debonair sold!
Steve Glasgow <willfly@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow"
Has anyone else had problems with the Grand Rapids EIS 4000 cutting out?
Three times in less than 2 years mine has completely shut down (blank
screen). The fix so far has been to un-plug both wiring plugs on the back
of the instrument and plug back in.
What gives? Help!
Steve Glasgow
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy (220 hours)
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755) in their catalog that discusses
the details of insulating an aircraft, giving several options. I'd recommend
starting there. On my 7A, I used the sandwich technique described in the book
and made templates to fit each area of skin in the airplane. These sandwiches
are foam/aluminum foil/foam, put together with spray on contact cement.
I will have about 2" of this material (3 or 4 sandwiches) on the firewall, about
1" everywhere else. I put it on all metal surfaces that are not occupied with
something else, including subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and
areas in the tail. Total weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used the
1/4" "Super Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720). That makes
one "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the foil is put in. I've sprayed
contact cement lightly to the aluminum to attach these. You can still rip
em out if you want to, but they are attached more permanently than velcro. The
plane isn't flying yet, but there is an incredible difference just being inside
it and working...it's like a sound studio.
Bob Brown
RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
Message 3
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Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under control.
~Paul
9A #1176
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Mike,
Related topic - how are you attaching the canopy skirts?
I've glued on my canopy, so obviously I don't want to
drill a lot of holes in the canopy for the skirts, but
gluing on the skirts seems to be rather tricky.
The main problem I see is that there is a lot of work
done with the skirts just clecoed on, then the skirts
are removed, modified, re-clecoed, etc. Glue is kind
of a one way street.
Thanks for any hints!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Why not try your Ryobi first. You will definitely be using it often. Just
make sure to stay way outside the line if the blade wanders. To get a good
straight edge, clamp a thick straight edge on the line and file, file away.
Takes a bit longer but you'll get good results.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Folbrecht" <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
> So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
> including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
> cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
> kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
>
> ~Paul
> 9A #1176
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Hi
For my 6a QB I used a table saw some - didn't have a bandsaw at that time. If
you are trying to control tool expense I'd say you are set already.
hal
RV6a 185 hours
Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under control.
~Paul
9A #1176
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
IMHO, for most things your existing saw should work fine.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 7/6/05, Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
> So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
> including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
> cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
> kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
>
> ~Paul
> 9A #1176
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
The best sound deadener is mass such as earth, concrete or lead. Closing all little
openings helps. Applying some sort of vibration dampner to the firewall
should be a bit of a help as the firewall acts like a drum. Having one made
like the diamond plate seen around trucks would have been nice as the dimples
would dampen vibes.
hal
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
N67BT@aol.com wrote:
Anyway, I bought some satin black Krylon Fusion spray paint............ I plan
to use it.
BIG MISTAKE!
hal
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Not a bad idea. Using the Ryobi with wood was a trick until I learned
to "guide" the blade. I guess I really don't want to chance ruining
parts, even if it's only stock. But it's probably worth a try.
Although, for the $100 I paid for it, it's already gotten enough use,
and I can keep it around for the bit of woodworking I may do.
do not archive
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
>Why not try your Ryobi first. You will definitely be using it often. Just
>make sure to stay way outside the line if the blade wanders. To get a good
>straight edge, clamp a thick straight edge on the line and file, file away.
>Takes a bit longer but you'll get good results.
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>200 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Paul Folbrecht" <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>>
>>So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
>>including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
>>cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
>>kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>>
>>I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
>>suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
>>counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
>>Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
>>it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
>>hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
>>control.
>>
>>~Paul
>>9A #1176
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
I think the Ryobi band saw will work fine.
I used a Craftsman small 3 wheel bandsaw and it worked fine building my
RV6
I did put a blade made to cut non-ferrous metal on the unit. I replaced
the blade approx. 4 times during the construction of the plane.
Make sure you lower the guide to approx. 1/4 inch above the piece to be
cut.
This will help in the blade wandering. I also used a guide made of wood
or aluminum angle c-clamped to the bed as a guide.
Hope this helps
John L. Danielson
RV-6 sold
Harmon Rocket
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
control.
~Paul
9A #1176
Message 12
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Subject: | DAR Inspection Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
getting my cert too.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net
Wow. Walter, do you do video editing for a living. This is an outstanding piece
of craftsmanship. Oh, and the plane looks good too. (g)
Bob
St. Paul
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu
>
> The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
> getting my cert too.
>
> http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
>
> BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
> to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
> can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
> and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
> learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
Wow. Walter, do you do video editing for a living. This is an outstanding piece
of craftsmanship. Oh, and the plane looks good too. (g)
Bob
St. Paul
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <WALTER@TONDU.COM>
The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
getting my cert too.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
Lowe's, has a metal cutting blade for the 9" bandsaws (in the 'aircraft
tooling' section - where I got my cheap 9" bandsaw :-)
It works great on the light stock we need to cut. Be sure to set-up the
blade guides correctly (mine needed significant adjustment out of the
box) and position the guide as low as reasonable.
Dennis Glaeser
7A Empennage
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
<paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com
<mailto:paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com?subjectRe:%20Metal%20bandsaw%20for%20QB
%20kit?&replyto200507061431.j66EVYQE020381@mail.matronics.com> >
So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the
shop
including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque
wing
cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the
whole
kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more
or less
suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across
three
counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so
for a
Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB
kit. Will
it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick
with the
hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget
under control.
~Paul
9A #1176
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
> Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or
> less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
I have a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily used
my floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think
you'll
want one.
I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it doesn't get used as
often as the drill press.
As others have suggested, you could try the Ryobi, but the reason to
use a band saw is to get better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.
It sounds like that's NOT the results you get with the Ryobi. My
personal feeling is that you don't want to be cursing the tools you
are using. If the tool doesn't work properly, don't use it.
I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you asked about an old
-6A, I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band saw. Judging by
the level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I suspect you
can get by with the tools you have.
If you have any nasty cutting jobs, you could always get together
with another builder in your area with other tools.
-Joe
Message 16
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Subject: | DAR Inspection Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Outstanding!
If the airplane is as well done as the video it should win some awards.
Terry
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Subject: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
getting my cert too.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I just glued them on.
Just as you describe, cleco to get the fit, then glue as you did the
canopy.
Then finish off the rear.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Mickey Coggins [mailto:mick-matronics@rv8.ch]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the canopy
Hi Mike,
Related topic - how are you attaching the canopy skirts?
I've glued on my canopy, so obviously I don't want to
drill a lot of holes in the canopy for the skirts, but
gluing on the skirts seems to be rather tricky.
The main problem I see is that there is a lot of work
done with the skirts just clecoed on, then the skirts
are removed, modified, re-clecoed, etc. Glue is kind
of a one way street.
Thanks for any hints!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 18
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Subject: | DAR Inspection Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Loved it!. The music was great and I know the abDAR which made it even
funnier.I was cracking up the whole time.
Well done.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Subject: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
getting my cert too.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 19
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Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Paul, I'm a firm believer in you need the right tools for the job. Having said that, the ryobi w/ 9" metal bandsaw will work. It will go through excessive amounts of blades (and won't cut straight), but it will work. If you have an extra $150 lying around, I would highly recommend the Harbor Freigh metal bandsaw. Works 10x better in my opinion. Scott7A Fuse here in 2 weeks--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 09:29:05 -0500Subject: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Thx for this and the other posts; I will try a metal-cutting blade on
the Ryobi. Sounds like that will work fine.
do not archive
Glaeser, Dennis A wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
>
>Lowe's, has a metal cutting blade for the 9" bandsaws (in the 'aircraft
>tooling' section - where I got my cheap 9" bandsaw :-)
>It works great on the light stock we need to cut. Be sure to set-up the
>blade guides correctly (mine needed significant adjustment out of the
>box) and position the guide as low as reasonable.
>
>Dennis Glaeser
>7A Empennage
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
><paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com
><mailto:paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com?subjectRe:%20Metal%20bandsaw%20for%20QB
>%20kit?&replyto200507061431.j66EVYQE020381@mail.matronics.com> >
>
> So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the
>shop
> including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque
>wing
> cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the
>whole
> kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more
>or less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across
>three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so
>for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB
>kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick
>with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget
>under control.
>
> ~Paul
> 9A #1176
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Paul,
One tool that I use more than I thought I would is the ScotchBrite Wheel .
. . I got mine from Van's . . . they're not inexpensive . . . but I've found
that when cutting something out with either snips or the bandsaw . . . I'll
err on the side of leaving the cut a little generous and then dress it up on
the Belt/Disc Sander and/or the ScotchBrite Wheel.
Regards,
Bob
On 7/6/05, Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
> So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
> including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
> cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
> kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
>
> ~Paul
> 9A #1176
>
>
Message 22
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|
Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
>N67BT@aol.com wrote:
>Anyway, I bought some satin black Krylon Fusion spray paint............ I plan
to use it.
>
>
> BIG MISTAKE!
>
>
Probably the most useful post I've ever seen on the RV List! In case
it's not obvious, that was meant to be sarcastic.
do not archive
--
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 23
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|
Subject: | Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Clag on any old stuff, why should I care?
Cee Bailey's Aircraft Plastics of Long Beach provides a list of solvents that damage
acrylic plastic windows. Plexiglas is acrylic and so are our canopies.
I just looked at a dozen rattle cans to see what solvents are used in those paints.
**ALL** contained one or more of the solvents on that list. Most commonly
are xylene, acetone and toluene.
Google-ing, I found one experienced person who said most alcohols are destructive.
Another said never use solvent based paints (he means organic solvents).
Another recommended water based acrylic paint. Laquer thinner is bad as is MEK
and carbon tet. I guess gasoline is too since it contains benzene. Finally,
vinyl products release a gas that is destructive so no vinyl glare shield covers.
Just because the acrylic is not damaged immediately does not mean it won't craze
or crack in the future. I don't understand people who will slop on unknown
goop on something as expensive in dollars and labor.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK 185 hours
Message 24
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|
Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
I've got one of those. I went with teh Avery kit w/some extras. (And
got a Tatco squeezer instead of their cause it's way better and I have
no pnuematic squeezer.)
Bob C. wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
>
>Paul,
> One tool that I use more than I thought I would is the ScotchBrite Wheel .
>. . I got mine from Van's . . . they're not inexpensive . . . but I've found
>that when cutting something out with either snips or the bandsaw . . . I'll
>err on the side of leaving the cut a little generous and then dress it up on
>the Belt/Disc Sander and/or the ScotchBrite Wheel.
> Regards,
>Bob
>
> On 7/6/05, Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>>
>>So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
>>including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
>>cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
>>kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>>
>>I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
>>suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
>>counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
>>Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
>>it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
>>hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
>>control.
>>
>>~Paul
>>9A #1176
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Paul,
If the blade is wandering, you may need to tune the saw. I bought a 3
wheel Craftsman at a great discount because it didn't cut straight.
Every single adjustment on the saw was wrong! A new blade and 30 minutes
work is all it needed. Make sure the blade guides are set nice and close
and that will help a lot.
First thing you will make for a 9A is the mounting brackets. Remember to
make a left and a right, not two of the same.
Mark
Helped build 2 9A tails
Do not archive
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
>So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
>including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
>cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
>kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
>I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
>suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
>counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
>Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
>it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
>hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under control.
>
>~Paul
>9A #1176
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
This was a MUCH better post and explained your thinking very well. I
found the info presented informative, especially as you explained not
only that the paints can damage the canopy, but how you came to that
conclusion.
-Joe
Do not archive
On Jul 6, 2005, at 1:54 PM, Hal Kempthorne wrote:
> Clag on any old stuff, why should I care?
>
> Cee Bailey's Aircraft Plastics of Long Beach provides a list of
> solvents that damage acrylic plastic windows. Plexiglas is acrylic
> and so are our canopies.
>
> I just looked at a dozen rattle cans to see what solvents are used
> in those paints. **ALL** contained one or more of the solvents on
> that list. Most commonly are xylene, acetone and toluene.
>
> Google-ing, I found one experienced person who said most alcohols
> are destructive. Another said never use solvent based paints (he
> means organic solvents). Another recommended water based acrylic
> paint. Laquer thinner is bad as is MEK and carbon tet. I guess
> gasoline is too since it contains benzene. Finally, vinyl products
> release a gas that is destructive so no vinyl glare shield covers.
>
> Just because the acrylic is not damaged immediately does not mean
> it won't craze or crack in the future. I don't understand people
> who will slop on unknown goop on something as expensive in dollars
> and labor.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
>
> RV6-a N7HK 185 hours
Message 27
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|
Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure that should
be just fine for my needs.
Still weighing new blade for the Ryobi vs. HF metal band saw. Now on
sale for $170.
do not archive
>I have a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily used
>my floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think
>you'll
>want one.
>
>I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it doesn't get used as
>often as the drill press.
>
>As others have suggested, you could try the Ryobi, but the reason to
>use a band saw is to get better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.
>It sounds like that's NOT the results you get with the Ryobi. My
>personal feeling is that you don't want to be cursing the tools you
>are using. If the tool doesn't work properly, don't use it.
>
>I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you asked about an old
>-6A, I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band saw. Judging by
>the level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I suspect you
>can get by with the tools you have.
>
>If you have any nasty cutting jobs, you could always get together
>with another builder in your area with other tools.
>
>-Joe
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Paul,
Try the existing bandsaw with the existing blade first. Odds are it will be
fine. I picked up the HF 12" $99 cheapo and the wood blade it came with cuts
AL better than it cuts wood. You aren't going to cut steel with it but it's probably
more than adequate for what we do.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure that should be just
fine for my needs.
Still weighing new blade for the Ryobi vs. HF metal band saw. Now on sale for
$170.
do not archive
>I have a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily used
>my floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think
>you'll want one.
>
>I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it doesn't get used as
>often as the drill press.
>
>As others have suggested, you could try the Ryobi, but the reason to
>use a band saw is to get better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.
>It sounds like that's NOT the results you get with the Ryobi. My
>personal feeling is that you don't want to be cursing the tools you are
>using. If the tool doesn't work properly, don't use it.
>
>I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you asked about an old -6A,
>I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band saw. Judging by the
>level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I suspect you can
>get by with the tools you have.
>
>If you have any nasty cutting jobs, you could always get together with
>another builder in your area with other tools.
>
>-Joe
>
>
Message 29
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|
Subject: | Fuel inj. exhaust heat muff |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
I have a O-360 with Bendix
fuel inj. in my RV-8
The vetterman exhaust supplied by Van's
is the type that crossovers behind the throttle unit
The problem is that there is no straight tailpipe
long enough for a heat muff.
What have others done to supply cabin heat.
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
Message 30
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|
Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
Unless your Ryobi is REALLY terrible, I'd forget the HF one. If you're
going to spend the money go buy a good one that wasn't made in China,
has adjustable wheels and blade tracking, and that takes standard length
blades. The band saw I got from HF works, but eats blades rather
quickly and is a real bear to adjust properly.
PJ
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
>I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure that should
>be just fine for my needs.
>
>Still weighing new blade for the Ryobi vs. HF metal band saw. Now on
>sale for $170.
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>>I have a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily used
>>my floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think
>>you'll
>>want one.
>>
>>I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it doesn't get used as
>>often as the drill press.
>>
>>As others have suggested, you could try the Ryobi, but the reason to
>>use a band saw is to get better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.
>>It sounds like that's NOT the results you get with the Ryobi. My
>>personal feeling is that you don't want to be cursing the tools you
>>are using. If the tool doesn't work properly, don't use it.
>>
>>I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you asked about an old
>>-6A, I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band saw. Judging by
>>the level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I suspect you
>>can get by with the tools you have.
>>
>>If you have any nasty cutting jobs, you could always get together
>>with another builder in your area with other tools.
>>
>>-Joe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Check out www.garmin.com
The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
RV-4
RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
Message 32
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|
Subject: | Bolts for Bendix throtle unit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
I need to know what bolts to use
to bolt the bendix throttle unit to the
oil pan,and the filter box to the throttle unit?
These are coarse thread and AN bolts
do not work.Also I would like to find
bolts with drilled head for safety wire.
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
Message 33
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|
Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown"
> <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
>
> Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755) in their catalog that
> discusses the details of insulating an aircraft, giving several options.
> I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used the sandwich technique
> described in the book and made templates to fit each area of skin in the
> airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum foil/foam, put together with
> spray on contact cement. I will have about 2" of this material (3 or 4
> sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere else. I put it on all
> metal surfaces that are not occupied with something else, including
> subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and areas in the tail. Total
> weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used the 1/4" "Super
> Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720). That makes one
> "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the foil is put in. I've
> sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum to attach these. You can
> still rip em out if you want to, but they are attached more pe!
> rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying yet, but there is an
> incredible difference just being inside it and working...it's like a sound
> studio.
>
> Bob Brown
> RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
Bob,
You may want to investigate some other attachment method than spray on
contact adhesive. My experience is that it does not hold up well against
the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the insulation on my RV-6 firewall
a couple of times over the course of 300 and something flight hours.
Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching insulation ranks about a 10
on the misery index...
KB
Message 34
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|
Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Paul, I think people are mixing apples and oranges when talking about the Harbor Freight saw. There is a regular wood bandsaw that is very similar to the Ryobi, and there is a metal bandsaw that is very different. The metal bandsaw works excellent. The Ryobi (and other wood bandsaws) typically spin way too fast. The subject saw is frequently on sale for $150. I had to replace blades on the Ryobi every other week until I got the HF metal bandsaw model. Link below.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37151 Scott--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 14:54:41 -0500Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure that should be just fine for my needs.Still weighing new blade for the Ryobi vs. HF metal
band saw. Now on sale for $170.do not archiveI have a -6A, so your milage may vary.
So far, I've very heavily usedmy floor-mounted drill press. If you don't
have one, I really think you'llwant one.I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got
it, but it doesn't get used asoften as the drill press.As others have suggested,
you could try the Ryobi, but the reason touse a band saw is to get better
cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.It sounds like that's NOT the results you
get with the Ryobi. Mypersonal feeling is that you don't want to be cursing the
tools youare using. If the tool doesn't work properly, don't use it.I can't
comment on a modern QB kick. If you asked about an old-6A, I'd tell you that you
would want a reliable band saw. Judging bythe level of completeness of the
QB, and a modern kit, I suspect youcan get by with the tools you have.If you have
any nasty cutting jobs, you could always get
Message 35
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|
Subject: | DAR Inspection Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Walter:
Thanks for the plug.
I did not know that I am that FAT. I knew that Dave Richardson was video
taping but did not know he taped that much. As you can tell, I concentrate
on my inspection as much as I do when I fly formation.
I want everyone to know that the airplane is built as well as the video was
done.
I am going to forward a copy of the video to my mother.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,694 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
getting my cert too.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 36
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Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Paul (and other bandsaw owners), a bandsaw that's set up right won't
wander .... unless it's a really cheap ..... and I don't think the Ryobi
fits that category. Look at the head, where the guide wheels are, and
you'll see three screws, two at the side and one at the back. These set
the 'track' of the bandsaw blade. Different blades will have different
thicknesses, and the screws on the side will push the guide bars in
towards the blade to 'straighten' it up. The screw at the back of the
blade is used to keep the sawblade teeth out of those guide bars! So, a
little tweaking here and there should remove the wandering from your
bandsaw. Take your time and do not overtighten.
Linn
--
Message 37
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Subject: | Arlington NW EAA airshow |
--> RV-List message posted by: <tomvelvick@cox.net>
Katie and I are up here at Arlington for the NW EAA fly in. The front that came
through last night kept a lot of rvs away. We go in last night around 4pm and
it started raining on us before we got unpacked. There are only 3 rvs in the
rv parking area now. There were a lot more but they were all members of the
local Blackjack squadron and left in the afternoon. They did a very nice formation
flyover.
The hottest thing I have seen here today is the Garmin 396. Its a 296 on steroids.
It has a built in XM radio, so it has the music etc and also shows real
time weather from the XM on the screen both in graphical and text format. It
was so neat to pull up the current Metar or forecast for any airport you put your
cursor over. It also has a current winds aloft screen that overlays the terrain
or you can see it by elevation. The cursor really moves fast over the
screen unlike my Garmin GPS III pilot that takes a long time. The screen is a
lot brighter than the 296 screen. It also receives data from the Garmin 330
so can display traffic. It also has the approaches built in.
Current Weather, Music, Traffic, Terrain and Obstructions
all in one handheld for $2500. Supposed to be shipping by Oshkosh or soon after.
Oh, it also shows all the current TFRs on the terrain screen and you can click
on them and read the data about them. No more missing a TFR cause it happened
after the last time you checked. This handheld sets a new standard. Wonder if
anyone else will come up with anything close at Oshkosh?
Also Chuck and Jerry were demonstrating their new Trio Avionics altitude hold.
Way cool. Supposed to be shipping real soon.
Seattle Avionics was showing their new Voyager flight planning software and offering a competitive discount to change over from your current software. We have been using Destination Direct for several years but they seem to not be doing any updates anymore so decided to switch to the Voyager software. http://www.seattleavionics.com/products.shtml
Regards,
Tom and Katie in Arlington
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc@comcast.net>
The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the
booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a
look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type
stuff.
Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in OR.
Weather was poopy though so attendance was down.
Henry H.
CBRxxDRV@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
>Check out www.garmin.com
>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
>
>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
>
>
>RV-4
>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
>
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
No, I'm talking about a benchtop HF bandsaw (similar to the ryobi's) that is variable speed, 12" throat, and I have yet to change the blade, that regularly goes on sale for $99. It also seems to work better at higher speeds (2645 fpm) which tends to make me think the Ryobi will be fine. My only suggestion is try it before you buy a new one. YMMV <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981 <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981> >
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of
Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Paul, I think people are mixing apples and oranges when talking about the Harbor Freight saw. There is a regular wood bandsaw that is very similar to the Ryobi, and there is a metal bandsaw that is very different. The metal bandsaw works excellent. The Ryobi (and other wood bandsaws) typically spin way too fast. The subject saw is frequently on sale for $150. I had to replace blades on the Ryobi every other week until I got the HF metal bandsaw model. Link below.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151 Scott--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 14:54:41 -0500Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure that should be just fine for my needs.Still weighing new blade for the Ryobi vs. HF metal
band saw. Now on sale for $170.do not archiveI have a -6A, so your milage may vary.
So far, I've very heavily usedmy floor-mounted drill press. If you don't
have one, I really think you'llwant one.I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got
it, but it doesn't get used asoften as the drill press.As others have suggested,
you could try the Ryobi, but the reason touse a band saw is to get better
cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.It sounds like that's NOT the results you
get with the Ryobi. Mypersonal feeling is that you don't want to be cursing the
tools youare using. If the tool doesn't work properly, don't use it.I can't
comment on a modern QB kick. If you asked about an old-6A, I'd tell you that you
would want a reliable band saw. Judging bythe level of completeness of the
QB, and a modern kit, I suspect youcan get by with the tools you have.If you have
any nasty cutting jobs, you could always get
Message 40
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Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
I bought this bandsaw because Dan Checkoway did and he's my RV hero (g).
Seriously, it has worked very well. I've been through two blades but that's
my fault. The only problem I have is it's a real pain in the neck to find a
62" bandsaw blade that cuts metal.
But I also think if a blade is wandering, then a previous poster was
correct. It sounds tome like the tracking AND the tension are not properly
set.
Bob
St. Paul
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael
Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
--> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
No, I'm talking about a benchtop HF bandsaw (similar to the ryobi's) that is
variable speed, 12" throat, and I have yet to change the blade, that
regularly goes on sale for $99. It also seems to work better at higher
speeds (2645 fpm) which tends to make me think the Ryobi will be fine. My
only suggestion is try it before you buy a new one. YMMV
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981> >
Michael
________________________________
Message 41
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Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net writes:
<<N67BT@aol.com wrote:
Anyway, I bought some satin black Krylon Fusion spray paint............ I
plan to use it.
BIG MISTAKE!>>
Well, that got my attention.
hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net writes:
<<Clag on any old stuff, why should I care?
Cee Bailey's Aircraft Plastics of Long Beach provides a list of solvents
that damage acrylic plastic windows. Plexiglas is acrylic and so are our
canopies.
I just looked at a dozen rattle cans to see what solvents are used in those
paints. **ALL** contained one or more of the solvents on that list. Most
commonly are xylene, acetone and toluene.
Google-ing, I found one experienced person who said most alcohols are
destructive. Another said never use solvent based paints (he means organic
solvents). Another recommended water based acrylic paint. Laquer thinner is
bad as
is MEK and carbon tet. I guess gasoline is too since it contains benzene.
Finally, vinyl products release a gas that is destructive so no vinyl glare
shield covers.
Just because the acrylic is not damaged immediately does not mean it won't
craze or crack in the future. I don't understand people who will slop on
unknown goop on something as expensive in dollars and labor.
Hal Kempthorne>>
This is exactly why I value this list so much. I try to research unknowns,
reduce them down, and try to arrive at some sort of logical conclusion. I
sure don't want to do any clagging -- so all info and opinions from you folks
are indeed welcome.
I do wonder though why a large company that develops and produces a paint,
especially for plastic, would not have thought of the ramifications of
application to acrylic.
I also wonder how we get away with applying epoxy resin directly to the
windscreen without historical consequences. It contains benzyl alcohol, TETL,
TETL with phenol/formaldehyde, hydroxybenzene, and many other chemicals. Are
these not a factor?
Thanks Hal, I'll take another look at this.
I think you care.
Bob Trumpfheller
Message 42
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Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Beaver <jason@jasonbeaver.com>
The other thing to look at is the blade tension spring. If the
spring is worn, it won't put the correct tension on the blade even if
the blade tension adjustment screw is set appropriately for the blade
width. A blade that is too loose will not only wander, but will slip
on the drive wheel.
jason
On Jul 6, 2005, at 5:45 PM, linn walters wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Paul (and other bandsaw owners), a bandsaw that's set up right won't
> wander .... unless it's a really cheap ..... and I don't think the
> Ryobi
> fits that category. Look at the head, where the guide wheels are, and
> you'll see three screws, two at the side and one at the back.
> These set
> the 'track' of the bandsaw blade. Different blades will have
> different
> thicknesses, and the screws on the side will push the guide bars in
> towards the blade to 'straighten' it up. The screw at the back of the
> blade is used to keep the sawblade teeth out of those guide bars!
> So, a
> little tweaking here and there should remove the wandering from your
> bandsaw. Take your time and do not overtighten.
> Linn
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 43
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick Nafsinger" <nick@creteaviation.com>
I hope it's as nice as it looks.... Ordered mine this morning. I'll
give a full report as soon as it is in my hands.
Which I guess means my 196 is now for sale, anyone interested?
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henry Hochberg
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396
--> RV-List message posted by: Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc@comcast.net>
The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the
booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a
look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type
stuff.
Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in OR.
Weather was poopy though so attendance was down.
Henry H.
CBRxxDRV@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
>Check out www.garmin.com
>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
>
>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
>
>
>RV-4
>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
>
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>
>
>
>
--
--
Message 44
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|
"'RV-8 List \(Yahoo\)'" <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>,
"'RV-8 List \(Matronics\)'" <rv8-list@matronics.com>
Subject: | RV Grinning (finally!) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" <martorious@earthlink.net>
Ok, it's past my bedtime, but I couldn't shut down for the night
without sharing my GRIN!
It all started when I finally found time to make my first EAA Chapter
1311 meeting tonight, (running an hour late after following the wrong
directions and finding myself at Indianapolis (IND) instead of
Hendricks Co (2R2) where I was supposed to be, but that's another
story). I made my 'fashionably late' entrance and enjoyed the end of
a presentation by a local insurance agent talking about the various
permutations of aircraft insurance (very informative, but legalese is
not my native language <grin>).
After a break for pizza, we sat down to a home video of several
chapter members doing volunteer work at Oshkosh helping to set up for
Airventure. During the video I got a tap on the shoulder and the
magic question "Would you like to go fly?" posed to me. I looked at
Jon Byrum with what must have been a look of joy that could have only
been topped if he had told me I had won the lottery, which as far as I
was concerned I had. He led me to the only experimental on the ramp,
an absolutely gorgeous RV-7A that was built by him and Vern Sullenger.
After the customary once over of where to step and where to place
hands (I've been on the lists long enough to know that the canopy is a
no-no for hand hold, so thanks guys for the education!) I was finally
sitting in an RV. We started up and taxied out for a great sunset
flight over Central Indiana. We weren't in a hurry, so an easy climb
to 4500 as we turned westward to see the last of the pink horizon
start to dim, the city lights and vehicle traffic going about their
business so far below. He set trim as we leveled off and settled in
to a cruise of 168 knots and he handed over the controls. Let me add
that I don't have my private ticket yet, in fact I've only taken my
introductory flight in a Cessna 152, so that is my only point of
reference. As I've heard so many times before, the controls are light
and very responsive. If I even thought about banking or changing
pitch it seemed the plane moved despite the fact that I was sure the
stick hadn't moved. I guess I was more anxious about handling someone
else's plane with my 0 hours, because I handed control back over to
him without a fight as we turned back for the airport. After a
greaser of a touchdown, he taxied up to the ramp and let me out. He
taxied back out and took off, waggling his wings at me as I stood
there and gawked with a major grin plastered on my face.
Many thanks to Chapter 1311 and especially Jon Byrum for an evening
that I'll never forget, which is eventually going to cost me around
40-50,000 dollars and about five years of my life! But it'll be worth
it as long as I have my very own RV when I'm done.
Sorry for the long post, but I had to put it in words while the
feeling was fresh, although I doubt I'll forget it anytime soon.
Marty Puckett
(Dang, my cheeks are going to be sore in the morning!)
Message 45
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Subject: | Tablesaw? Was Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi Hal,
I read your note on the bandsaw discussion. I am a long-time woodworker just
learning metal craft. I bought a non-ferrous saw blade for my powermatic 66.
Worked really well on the rudder and elevator stiffeners. I was trimming
another piece, got a kickback that sliced up about three fingers. Been very
cautious about using the blade again. What's been your experience with the
tablesaw? Any tips for keeping my fingertips?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 46
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Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
[snip]
> Google-ing, I found one experienced person who said most alcohols are
> destructive.
[and snip again]
Years ago there was discussion on this list regarding what isand isn't ok to
use on plexi. Isopropyl alcohol and Naptha came up from solid sources as the
two 'safe' things to use. I have used both at one time or another with no apparent
ill effects then, or now, 7 years after doing the canopy. Not necessarily
authoritative but it's one more data point.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Hillsboro, Oregon
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