Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:26 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Mickey Coggins)
2. 02:38 AM - Looking for Ray Allen Stick Grip (jbs)
3. 05:09 AM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht)
5. 07:01 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht)
6. 07:07 AM - Re: Garmin -396 (Jeff Dowling)
7. 07:11 AM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (Walter Tondu)
8. 07:18 AM - Re: Tablesaw? Was Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Clinchy, Dave)
9. 07:49 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
10. 08:19 AM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (Jason Beaver)
11. 09:26 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Hal Kempthorne)
12. 09:30 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Doug Cook)
13. 09:30 AM - Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (George Inman)
14. 09:30 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht)
15. 10:18 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht)
16. 10:30 AM - Re: Fuel inj. exhaust heat muff (Jack Blomgren)
17. 12:19 PM - Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) ()
18. 12:19 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al))
19. 12:46 PM - Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 (Kevin Williams)
20. 01:09 PM - Re: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 01:26 PM - Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Paul Folbrecht)
22. 01:47 PM - RV 7 Access Panel (Stan Jones)
23. 01:48 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Frank J. Simutis)
24. 02:15 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Pat Hatch)
25. 02:22 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Joseph Larson)
26. 03:07 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Walter Tondu)
27. 03:10 PM - Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 (Kevin Horton)
28. 03:17 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Paul Folbrecht)
29. 03:21 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Stan Jones)
30. 03:56 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once ()
31. 03:58 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Pat Hatch)
32. 04:32 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
33. 05:15 PM - Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 (c.ennis)
34. 05:24 PM - Re: Garmin -396 (Nick Nafsinger)
35. 05:50 PM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (RV6 Flyer)
36. 06:56 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
37. 07:51 PM - P-mag installation report (sportav8r@AOL.COM)
38. 08:38 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Bobby Hester)
39. 09:08 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Richard Scott)
40. 09:19 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (glaesers)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>> Google-ing, I found one experienced person who said most alcohols
>> are destructive.
>
> Years ago there was discussion on this list regarding what isand
> isn't ok to use on plexi. Isopropyl alcohol and Naptha came up from
> solid sources as the two 'safe' things to use. I have used both at
> one time or another with no apparent ill effects then, or now, 7
> years after doing the canopy. Not necessarily authoritative but it's
> one more data point. ...
Last discussion on this I recall, the safe things were the
long chain hydrocarbons, like diesel/kerosene. On Todd's
Canopies website he only says this about cleaning:
"Use products that are made for cleaning plastic. I use Novus products.
Don't use household and glass cleaners. They may and probably do contain
chemicals that attack the plastic. If there is a lot of dust on the
canopy, spraying compressed air on it works good to get most of it off."
I guess one could contact Van's and/or their canopy supplier to
get their view.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 2
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| Subject: | Looking for Ray Allen Stick Grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: jbs <skydweller97@yahoo.com>
If anyone has the basic Ray Allen stick grip (G101
with just the push to talk button on top) that they
wayt to sell; please email me at:
skydweller97@yahoo.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Walter, I watched it BUT for some reason, I can't seem to terminate the
showing of the movie. It plays over and over. I finally had to pull the
plug to my computer to stop it. I use XP Home. Ideas?
Thanks for the movie all the same. Where did the background music come
from? I'd like to buy a copy of that CD.
do not archive
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
> getting my cert too.
>
> http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
>
> BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
> to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
> can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
> and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
> learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
It's been awhile but I had adjusted the saw numerous times. Based on
all this feedback, yeah, I'm at least going to try it on Al stock.
linn walters wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>Paul (and other bandsaw owners), a bandsaw that's set up right won't
>wander .... unless it's a really cheap ..... and I don't think the Ryobi
>fits that category. Look at the head, where the guide wheels are, and
>you'll see three screws, two at the side and one at the back. These set
>the 'track' of the bandsaw blade. Different blades will have different
>thicknesses, and the screws on the side will push the guide bars in
>towards the blade to 'straighten' it up. The screw at the back of the
>blade is used to keep the sawblade teeth out of those guide bars! So, a
>little tweaking here and there should remove the wandering from your
>bandsaw. Take your time and do not overtighten.
>Linn
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Your link gives "not a valid item". Is this it:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37151
?
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
>No, I'm talking about a benchtop HF bandsaw (similar to the ryobi's) that is variable speed, 12" throat, and I have yet to change the blade, that regularly goes on sale for $99. It also seems to work better at higher speeds (2645 fpm) which tends to make me think the Ryobi will be fine. My only suggestion is try it before you buy a new one. YMMV <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981 <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981> >
>
>Michael
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> Paul, I think people are mixing apples and oranges when talking about the Harbor Freight saw. There is a regular wood bandsaw that is very similar to the Ryobi, and there is a metal bandsaw that is very different. The metal bandsaw works excellent. The Ryobi (and other wood bandsaws) typically spin way too fast. The subject saw is frequently on sale for $150. I had to replace blades on the Ryobi every other week until I got the HF metal bandsaw model. Link below.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151 Scott--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 14:54:41 -0500Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure that should be just fine for my needs.Still weighing new blade for the Ryobi vs. HF metal
>band saw. Now on sale for $170.do not archiveI have a -6A, so your milage may
vary. So far, I've very heavily usedmy floor-mounted drill press. If you don't
have one, I really think you'llwant one.I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got
it, but it doesn't get used asoften as the drill press.As others have suggested,
you could try the Ryobi, but the reason touse a band saw is to get better
cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.It sounds like that's NOT the results you
get with the Ryobi. Mypersonal feeling is that you don't want to be cursing the
tools youare using. If the tool doesn't work properly, don't use it.I can't
comment on a modern QB kick. If you asked about an old-6A, I'd tell you that
you would want a reliable band saw. Judging bythe level of completeness of the
QB, and a modern kit, I suspect youcan get by with the tools you have.If you
have any nasty cutting jobs, you could always get
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Can it display approaches?
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Nafsinger" <nick@creteaviation.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin -396
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Nick Nafsinger" <nick@creteaviation.com>
>
>
> I hope it's as nice as it looks.... Ordered mine this morning. I'll
> give a full report as soon as it is in my hands.
>
> Which I guess means my 196 is now for sale, anyone interested?
>
> Nick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henry Hochberg
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc@comcast.net>
>
> The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the
> booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a
> look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type
> stuff.
> Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in OR.
>
> Weather was poopy though so attendance was down.
>
> Henry H.
>
> CBRxxDRV@aol.com wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>>
>>Check out www.garmin.com
>>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
>>
>>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
>>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
>>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
>>
>>
>>RV-4
>>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
>>
>>
>>Sal Capra
>>Lakeland, FL
>> My Home Page
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 07/07 7:07, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
> Walter, I watched it BUT for some reason, I can't seem to terminate the
> showing of the movie. It plays over and over. I finally had to pull the
> plug to my computer to stop it. I use XP Home. Ideas?
What are you saying? You don't want to watch it over and over? :)
Have you tried to upgrade your Windows Media Player to the latest
version? There may also be a setting where by you can tell the
player to Not repeat or Loop on playback, not sure.
> Thanks for the movie all the same. Where did the background music come
> from? I'd like to buy a copy of that CD.
Artist is Bela Fleck. Can't remember the album title. Lot's
of twangy country style stuff, some good, some bad. If you have
iTunes on your pc (free download), you can sample all his music
for nada. And if you like, buy a song for a buck, not bad. I
actually have this cd though.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Tablesaw? Was Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd@losrios.edu>
>What's been your experience with the tablesaw? Any tips for keeping my
>fingertips?
Best tip: Don't do it!
I spent many years in "the trenches" working construction, using all
types of circular saws - table, chop, skil, etc, and managed to keep all
my fingers. I thought I could use one to do cutting of alum on my
project. After several successful cuts on alum pieces I had one bad
kick-back; it kicked back so hard that it knocked my hand/arm around
behind me... I was afraid to pull my hand back in front of me and look
at it because it felt like several fingers were missing! Luckily they
were all still there, bruised and cut, but still there.
Buy a bandsaw - it's one of the best tool investments I made for
building my 7.
Dave Clinchy
7 finishing
Sacramento Ca
Message 9
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| Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Hmm, weird. Put in item number 40981 for a item number search and it should come
up. You can also just search for band saw and it should be listed.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Your link gives "not a valid item". Is this it:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151
?
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
>--> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
>No, I'm talking about a benchtop HF bandsaw (similar to the ryobi's)
>that is variable speed, 12" throat, and I have yet to change the blade,
>that regularly goes on sale for $99. It also seems to work better at
>higher speeds (2645 fpm) which tends to make me think the Ryobi will be
>fine. My only suggestion is try it before you buy a new one. YMMV
><http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981
><http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981>
>>
>
>Michael
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> Paul, I think people are mixing apples and oranges when talking about
>the Harbor Freight saw. There is a regular wood bandsaw that is very
>similar to the Ryobi, and there is a metal bandsaw that is very
>different. The metal bandsaw works excellent. The Ryobi (and other
>wood bandsaws) typically spin way too fast. The subject saw is
>frequently on sale for $150. I had to replace blades on the Ryobi
>every other week until I got the HF metal bandsaw model. Link
>below....
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151
>Scott--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com
>wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com]To:
>rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 14:54:41 -0500Subject: Re:
>RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul
>Folbrecht I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure
>that should be just fine for my needs.Still weighing new blade for the
>Ryobi vs. HF metal band saw. Now on sale for $170.do not archiveI have
>a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily usedmy
>floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think
>you'llwant one.I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it
>doesn't get used asoften as the drill press.As others have suggested,
>you could try the Ryobi, but the reason touse a band saw is to get
>better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.It sounds like that's NOT
>the results you get with the Ryobi. Mypersonal feeling is that you
>don't want to be cursing the tools youare using. If the tool doesn't
>work properly, don't use it.I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you
>asked about an old-6A, I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band
>saw. Judging bythe level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I
>suspect youcan get by with the tools you have.If you have any nasty
>cutting jobs, you could always get
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Beaver <jason@jasonbeaver.com>
The song is "Cheeseballs in Cowtown" off the "Tales from the Acoustic
Planet" album (Bela Fleck is one of my favorite artists). The song
is also available live on the "Live Art" album. If you like his
music, you should really see him live. He's one of the top few banjo
players in the world, and he's really taken the banjo a long way
beyond bluegrass.
If you have iTunes, the following link will take you to the song in
the music store: http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/
viewAlbum?playlistId=158146&selectedItemId=158126
do not archive
jason
On Jul 7, 2005, at 7:11 AM, Walter Tondu wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> On 07/07 7:07, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
>
>> Walter, I watched it BUT for some reason, I can't seem to
>> terminate the
>> showing of the movie. It plays over and over. I finally had to
>> pull the
>> plug to my computer to stop it. I use XP Home. Ideas?
>>
>
> What are you saying? You don't want to watch it over and over? :)
>
> Have you tried to upgrade your Windows Media Player to the latest
> version? There may also be a setting where by you can tell the
> player to Not repeat or Loop on playback, not sure.
>
>
>> Thanks for the movie all the same. Where did the background music
>> come
>> from? I'd like to buy a copy of that CD.
>>
>
> Artist is Bela Fleck. Can't remember the album title. Lot's
> of twangy country style stuff, some good, some bad. If you have
> iTunes on your pc (free download), you can sample all his music
> for nada. And if you like, buy a song for a buck, not bad. I
> actually have this cd though.
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Maybe Van's canopies are mde of this plastic:
"A new injection moldable acrylic multi-polymer from Cyro Industries, Rockaway,
N.J., provides superior resistance to alcohols, isopropanol, and lipids present
in blood products. This acrylic can compete in applications previously limited
to lipid-resistant PC and other non-acrylic plastics. Compared with Cyrolite
Med, Cyro's first alcohol-resistant acrylic, Cyrolite Med 2 boasts even better
alcohol and lipid resistance, plus improved clarity, impact, ductility, and
optics after gamma sterilization. Cyrolite Med 2 has a low density of 1.08 g/cc
and offers excellent processability for molding complex and thin-walled parts,
Cyro claims. It is amenable to solvent bonding or ultrasonic welding and
can be sterilized by gamma, E-beam, and ethylene oxide methods."
Also I notice that Cee Bailey Plastics actually names methyl and ethyl alcohol
and does not mention isopropyl which is rubbing alcohol.
Kerosene is okay if you must have something cheap.
hal
rv6n6r@comcast.net wrote:
Isopropyl alcohol and Naptha came up from solid sources as the
two 'safe' things to use. I have used both at one time or another with no apparent
ill effects then, or now, 7 years after doing the canopy.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Cook" <Dugcook@cox.net>
Paul,
I'm well into my RV-7A Q-Build and have gotten by quite well with a hand hacksaw.
I have also used a Sears 3/8 electric drill for the whole project. I attended
an RV builders clinic and didn't see the benefit in a high speed, loud, and expensive
air drill that I used there. The 3/8 drill is the way to go.
Doug - RV-7A in progress in San Diego
Message 13
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| Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
So why can't you get a metal cutting blade for
the Ryobi? They are available in most sizes.
> So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
> including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
> cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
> kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
>
> ~Paul
> 9A #1176
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
That worked. Yes, this saw is very similar to the Ryobi.
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Hmm, weird. Put in item number 40981 for a item number search and it should
come up. You can also just search for band saw and it should be listed.
>
>Michael
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
>Your link gives "not a valid item". Is this it:
>
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151
>
>?
>
>do not archive
>
>RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
>>--> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>>No, I'm talking about a benchtop HF bandsaw (similar to the ryobi's)
>>that is variable speed, 12" throat, and I have yet to change the blade,
>>that regularly goes on sale for $99. It also seems to work better at
>>higher speeds (2645 fpm) which tends to make me think the Ryobi will be
>>fine. My only suggestion is try it before you buy a new one. YMMV
>><http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981
>><http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber40981>
>>
>>
>>Michael
>>
>>
>>________________________________
>>
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
>>
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>>
>>Paul, I think people are mixing apples and oranges when talking about
>>the Harbor Freight saw. There is a regular wood bandsaw that is very
>>similar to the Ryobi, and there is a metal bandsaw that is very
>>different. The metal bandsaw works excellent. The Ryobi (and other
>>wood bandsaws) typically spin way too fast. The subject saw is
>>frequently on sale for $150. I had to replace blades on the Ryobi
>>every other week until I got the HF metal bandsaw model. Link
>>below....
>>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151
>>Scott--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com
>>wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com]To:
>>rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 14:54:41 -0500Subject: Re:
>>RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul
>>Folbrecht I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure
>>that should be just fine for my needs.Still weighing new blade for the
>>Ryobi vs. HF metal band saw. Now on sale for $170.do not archiveI have
>>a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily usedmy
>>floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think
>>you'llwant one.I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it
>>doesn't get used asoften as the drill press.As others have suggested,
>>you could try the Ryobi, but the reason touse a band saw is to get
>>better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.It sounds like that's NOT
>>the results you get with the Ryobi. Mypersonal feeling is that you
>>don't want to be cursing the tools youare using. If the tool doesn't
>>work properly, don't use it.I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you
>>asked about an old-6A, I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band
>>saw. Judging bythe level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I
>>suspect youcan get by with the tools you have.If you have any nasty
>>cutting jobs, you could always get
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Been thru this now but I was thinking that the Ryobi wandered too much.
What I haven't tried yet is setting the guides closer. I am gonna try
that and if I need to also try a metal blade.
do not archive
George Inman wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
>
> So why can't you get a metal cutting blade for
>the Ryobi? They are available in most sizes.
>
>
>
>>So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
>>including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
>>cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
>>kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>>
>>I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
>>suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
>>counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
>>Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
>>it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
>>hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
>>control.
>>
>>~Paul
>>9A #1176
>>
>>
>
>GEORGE H. INMAN
>ghinman@mts.net
>CELL 204 799 7062
>HOME 204 287 8334
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Fuel inj. exhaust heat muff |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
George,
I had similar problem with a Vetterman on an IO-360 (180) for my -8. I
Swapped exhaust back to Van's for a 2nd Vetterman (also a crossover type)
but which might have slightly different straights and bends. I finally got
two heat muffs on, one, way forward on right side that impinges a short
distance onto two exhanust bends. The other muff sits crossways at back
left side. One of many challenges to problem solving (skill?). Hang in
there.
Jack, #80815
molding gear intersection fairings
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Glen:
Your right, with ceramic coating will have little if any heat off the heat muff
for cabin heat. This may be the single reason, if only one reason for not doing
the coating thing, but it is very much an issue since we use exhaust heat to
warm the cabin. Using oil cooler for heat, OK. How is that going to work thermodynamically
BTU wise, not to mention the engineering of the system. My guess
is the 1000F off the exhaust pipe has more heating capacity than the oil cooler
at 200-250F.
I would imagine having the coating start and stop in the heat muff area would be
a no no. With the lack of continuity in coating you would have a hot spot and
thermal stresses from different metal temps.
Cheers George
Match: #4 Message: #131849 Date: Jul 04, 2005 From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Subject: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic coatings,
but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread. What
happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand
that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction
/ heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes warm
in the wintertime. Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al)
You may find that the bandsaw will work just fine, I wish I had one.
You usually don't want to cut to the final dimension anyway, that's
what files and Scotchbrite wheels are for. My solution for cutting all
of the narrow stock (bars, tubes, etc.) was to purchase a cutoff miter
("chop") saw from China Depot, er, Home Depot, that was on sale for
about $90. I replaced the wood blade with a metal cut-off wheel. Makes
cutting angles pretty easy.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
In the spirit of Experimental Aircraft. I wanted to ask is there a
performance gain / loss to building a custom set of straight pipes that
either protrude directly out the left and right side of the cowling or
follow a relatively straight path out the bottom of the cowling.
I understand with at the actual muffler piece its going to be a fair bit
louder in the cockpit. But would you see any performance gains do to a
straighter flow and no or limited back pressure?
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
George,
You're right about the heat muff. Not only is it probably not practical but
I doubt they even could as it would probably be extremely difficult to "mask"
an area inside the pipe. As far as the oil cooler for heating goes, most of the
pusher crowd use this arrangement very well for cabin heat. With them you
have to worry about getting the oil from the back of the aircraft to the front
which introduces the possibility of a burst oil line in the cockpit. With us
conventional crowd you could still keep the cooler in the engine compartment
and build a shroud around it with a waste gate to divert overboard when not in
use.
Probably not practical for smaller engines but if you have an oil cooler anyway
it might not be much more work and it is a lot safer than taking it off the
exhaust.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Glen:
Your right, with ceramic coating will have little if any heat off the heat muff
for cabin heat. This may be the single reason, if only one reason for not doing
the coating thing, but it is very much an issue since we use exhaust heat to
warm the cabin. Using oil cooler for heat, OK. How is that going to work thermodynamically
BTU wise, not to mention the engineering of the system. My guess
is the 1000F off the exhaust pipe has more heating capacity than the oil cooler
at 200-250F.
I would imagine having the coating start and stop in the heat muff area would be
a no no. With the lack of continuity in coating you would have a hot spot and
thermal stresses from different metal temps.
Cheers George
Match: #4 Message: #131849 Date: Jul 04, 2005 From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Subject: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic coatings,
but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread. What
happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand
that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction
/ heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes warm
in the wintertime. Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space.
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | RV 7 Access Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
module I need to install
under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
centre rib, between
the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
a bit of RTV to
keep the weather out.
Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
replace
a thousand words.
Stan Jones.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank J. Simutis" <fjslaw@earthlink.net>
I built a simple wooden frame, about 3 by 6, and stapled chicken wire to it,
and laid the entire thing horizontally on top of one of the boxes that the
empennage parts came in. I then laid the parts on it, primed them, and as
each part dried I turned it over. It dried quickly so it went quickly. It
worked great.
--
Frank J. Simutis
> From: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 15:22:19 -0500
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
> I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
> AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
> thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
> is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
> welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | RV 7 Access Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Stan,
I highly recommend these access panels on a RV-7 slider and make them as big
as the space will allow. Here is a picture of mine:
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=148121&ck
Let me know if you need more detail and I will send you pictures direct.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
module I need to install
under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
centre rib, between
the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
a bit of RTV to
keep the weather out.
Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
replace
a thousand words.
Stan Jones.
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
I made a "table" from window screen material (bought a roll of it
from the hardware store) and set a bunch of parts on that. I cleaned
them as I put them on the screen, keeping track of the part numbers
and where they were on the screen. Spray one side and allow to dry.
Use a sharpie to copy part numbers back on, then flip 'em all over
and spray the other sides.
For the empennage, this works. It won't work on future kits, as
there are just too many parts, but you could modify accordingly.
-Joe
On Jul 7, 2005, at 3:22 PM, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
> <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
> I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
> AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
> thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
> is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't.
> Would
> welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of
> space.
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 07/08 8:44, Stan Jones wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
>
> On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
> module I need to install
> under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
> I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
> centre rib, between
> the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
> I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
> a bit of RTV to
> keep the weather out.
> Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
> replace
> a thousand words.
Lots of people have done this.
See entries beginning on 5/19/04 on this page.
http://www.rv7-a.com/tipup_canopy.htm
See Dan's website too.
http://rvproject.com
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 7 Jul 2005, at 15:46, Kevin Williams wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams"
> <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
> In the spirit of Experimental Aircraft. I wanted to ask is there a
> performance gain / loss to building a custom set of straight pipes
> that
> either protrude directly out the left and right side of the cowling or
> follow a relatively straight path out the bottom of the cowling.
>
> I understand with at the actual muffler piece its going to be a
> fair bit
> louder in the cockpit. But would you see any performance gains do
> to a
> straighter flow and no or limited back pressure?
Kevin,
Straight pipes exiting the side of the cowling would almost certainly
greatly disturb the airflow, and add a lot of drag. You would need
to realize a very large horsepower increase just to keep the same
speed, in my opinion. So I don't think that is the way to go.
The CAFE Foundation did some exhaust system research a few years
ago. They tested several different exhaust system configurations,
gathering data of pressure at the exhaust port vs crankshaft
position. Ideally, the pressure would be low at the exhaust ports
during the time that the exhaust valve is open, to help savenge the
exhaust gasses from the cylinder. They didn't measure horsepower,
but in theory their results should give some clues as to what
configuration is best. They concluded that a 4-into-1 configuration
was the best bet.
See:
http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/epg.pdf
http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/EPG%20PART%20IV.pdf
The first document describes test method, and explains the theory,
and the second document summarizes the results. They reference an
earlier study of tuned exhaust systems that they did, which was
published in the November 1980 Sport Aviation. I'd love to get a
copy, if anyone has it in their collection.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Oh man, I like this procedure :-> Keeping track of the part #s was
something else I've been thinking about.
I'm doing a QB so the tail is all I have to worry about priming.
do not archive
Joseph Larson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
>
>I made a "table" from window screen material (bought a roll of it
>from the hardware store) and set a bunch of parts on that. I cleaned
>them as I put them on the screen, keeping track of the part numbers
>and where they were on the screen. Spray one side and allow to dry.
>Use a sharpie to copy part numbers back on, then flip 'em all over
>and spray the other sides.
>
>For the empennage, this works. It won't work on future kits, as
>there are just too many parts, but you could modify accordingly.
>
>-Joe
>
>On Jul 7, 2005, at 3:22 PM, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
>><paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>>
>>I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
>>AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
>>thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
>>is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't.
>>Would
>>welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of
>>space.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | RV 7 Access Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
Thanks Pat. So, two panels, that looks a lot better than one. Much more
rigid.
What did you make the panels from, it looks like about 40 thou ?. If so you
would need to pack
the nutplate ring down?
Love the front view of your Prop. That looks a real mean air thrasher.
Any other info. on these panels would be appreciated.
Stan Jones
-------Original Message-------
From: Pat Hatch
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Stan,
I highly recommend these access panels on a RV-7 slider and make them as big
as the space will allow. Here is a picture of mine:
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep87&subpageid148121&ck
Let me know if you need more detail and I will send you pictures direct.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
module I need to install
under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
centre rib, between
the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
a bit of RTV to
keep the weather out.
Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
replace
a thousand words.
Stan Jones.
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Paul,
I Etched, Alodined and epoxy primed all my parts. I did nearly every part (including
my 1 piece wing skins) using coat hanger or mechanics wire to suspend them.
I chose this method for several reasons. It allowed me to dip the parts in
the etch and Alodine solutions, rinse them off and hang them up to dry. The
next day I was able to prime them without having to touch or handle the actual
part.
During construction, I had marked each part with a Sharpie pen. Prior to etch,
Alodine and prime, I washed all the parts off with lacquer thinner & a ScotchBrite
pad. I purchased a batch of ID tags from McMaster Carr to transfer the identification
markings. Since the lacquer thinner removed the Sharpie pen markings.
These tags are manilla cardboard cards with safety wire attached. I transferred
the ID markings to the tags. The tags were then attached to the coat hangers.
In this manner, I was able to dip and prime all my parts without handling them
prior or during priming. Recently a number of listers have commented about "fish
eye" problems during priming. The oil on your skin can cause this sort of
problem. Since I went to the trouble of cleaning the parts prior to Alodining
and priming, I decided that suspending the parts from coat hangers would insure
that I could handle them without touching the parts. It also allowed me to prime
ALL the sides of every piece during a single paint session.
The next day, after the primer had dried, I cut each part off the coat hangers
and transferred the ID markings back onto the parts with my Sharpie pen. I can
send you photos of how I did this off list, if you request it.
Hope this helps.
Charlie Kuss
---- Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
> I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
> AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
> thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
> is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
> welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | RV 7 Access Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Stan,
I made mine of .032 alum, including the doublers. I used #6 screws with
dimpled nutplates. If you are going to use a gasket or RTV, I would suggest
a shim between the forward deck skin and the doublers, perhaps .025.
Thanks!
Pat
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
Thanks Pat. So, two panels, that looks a lot better than one. Much more
rigid.
What did you make the panels from, it looks like about 40 thou ?. If so you
would need to pack
the nutplate ring down?
Love the front view of your Prop. That looks a real mean air thrasher.
Any other info. on these panels would be appreciated.
Stan Jones
Message 32
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| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of
space.
Paul: I was unable to get small parts to hold still on a screen table
when painting with a regular touch up gun. Ended up making several
rectangular frames out of CPVC water pipe and fittings which, when
equipped with 3/16 eyebolts and J hooks enabled wiring parts in place
web fashion using 20 gauge black wire from the hardware store. This
enables all over painting in one session by turning the frames. I hang
them from a suitable point for spraying and then set them aside to dry.
If you build them you will use them many times, including for finish
paint. You can spread the elevator/rudder skins for priming the insides
for example. I expect to apply finish paint to things like floorboards
and side panels using them. I spray the wired parts with xylene and
wipe with lint free cloths before applying paint. I've used mil-p23377
primer, self etching primer and Imron paint this way. Your paint may
need a different materials approach but the mechanics could be similar.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "c.ennis" <c.ennis@insightbb.com>
As I understand it, crossover pipes are one way of "tuning" exhaust
systems...in an effort to equalize backpressure among the cylinders.
Vetterman exhausts seem to be the ultimate compromise, considering the
limited space to work with under the cowl. As an afterthought, limited
experiance with drag bikes tells me you might encounter sizable problems
getting a carburated or injected fuel system to take advantage of an open
exhaust system..
"Change one thing and all the domino's fall over."
Charlie Ennis
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick Nafsinger" <nick@creteaviation.com>
Yes, it displays Approaches. BUT! It only displays from the FAF
inbound. Garmin did it that way to keep people from flying a full
instrument Approach with it. That being said, I flew it a LOT without a
IFR GPS and found that my situational awareness was increased
tremendously.
Nick
Park Rapids Avionics
301 Airport Rd.
Hwy 71 South
Park Rapids, MN
218.255.2768
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
<shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Can it display approaches?
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Nafsinger" <nick@creteaviation.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin -396
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Nick Nafsinger"
<nick@creteaviation.com>
>
>
> I hope it's as nice as it looks.... Ordered mine this morning. I'll
> give a full report as soon as it is in my hands.
>
> Which I guess means my 196 is now for sale, anyone interested?
>
> Nick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henry
Hochberg
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc@comcast.net>
>
> The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the
> booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a
> look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type
> stuff.
> Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in
OR.
>
> Weather was poopy though so attendance was down.
>
> Henry H.
>
> CBRxxDRV@aol.com wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>>
>>Check out www.garmin.com
>>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
>>
>>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
>>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
>>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
>>
>>
>>RV-4
>>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
>>
>>
>>Sal Capra
>>Lakeland, FL
>> My Home Page
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
--
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
You can download a free copy from here on your PC.
http://www.bandarchives.org/dldsongs.php
Cheeseballs in Cowtown is 7 from the top.
Do not archive
----Original Message Follows----
From: Jason Beaver <jason@jasonbeaver.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Beaver <jason@jasonbeaver.com>
The song is "Cheeseballs in Cowtown" off the "Tales from the Acoustic
Planet" album (Bela Fleck is one of my favorite artists). The song
is also available live on the "Live Art" album. If you like his
music, you should really see him live. He's one of the top few banjo
players in the world, and he's really taken the banjo a long way
beyond bluegrass.
If you have iTunes, the following link will take you to the song in
the music store: http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/
viewAlbum?playlistId=158146&selectedItemId=158126
do not archive
jason
On Jul 7, 2005, at 7:11 AM, Walter Tondu wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> On 07/07 7:07, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
>
>> Walter, I watched it BUT for some reason, I can't seem to
>> terminate the
>> showing of the movie. It plays over and over. I finally had to
>> pull the
>> plug to my computer to stop it. I use XP Home. Ideas?
>>
>
> What are you saying? You don't want to watch it over and over? :)
>
> Have you tried to upgrade your Windows Media Player to the latest
> version? There may also be a setting where by you can tell the
> player to Not repeat or Loop on playback, not sure.
>
>
>> Thanks for the movie all the same. Where did the background music
>> come
>> from? I'd like to buy a copy of that CD.
>>
>
> Artist is Bela Fleck. Can't remember the album title. Lot's
> of twangy country style stuff, some good, some bad. If you have
> iTunes on your pc (free download), you can sample all his music
> for nada. And if you like, buy a song for a buck, not bad. I
> actually have this cd though.
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
I put one of these panels in my RV6. I am flying but not painted yet.
mine is just like the one on the right side of Pat's RV7. It gives me
access to the rear of the avionics. I only put one in. I also have
removable panel sections, so I can access almost everything that I have
installed. I have already needed this access back before I flew, I had
to make an avionics change and it was well worth the time to put it in.
I have thought about putting one on the other side but I really dont
have anything over there that cant be got to by pulling the instrument
panel out on that side... I would definitly do it again. and Pat, those
pictures are great. I made mine about as big as I could go while
allowing for the flange that they scew to. Over all, I would say that
this could be done in 3 or 4 hours at the most. I also did not put the
center console bracket in, so I have a little easier access to behind
the firewall if need be (Brakes or what ever)...
Phil in Illinois RV6 N181RV
Pat Hatch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
>Stan,
>
>I highly recommend these access panels on a RV-7 slider and make them as big
>as the space will allow. Here is a picture of mine:
>
>http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=148121&ck
>Let me know if you need more detail and I will send you pictures direct.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-6
>RV-7
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
>
>On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
>module I need to install
>under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
>I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
>centre rib, between
>the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
>I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
>a bit of RTV to
>keep the weather out.
>Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
>replace
>a thousand words.
>Stan Jones.
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | P-mag installation report |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Many of my fellow rvators have expressed interest in my impressions and experience
with E-mag since I received my mags last month. Here's an update on my not-yet-flying
installation.
I started the job this past Saturday, removing the Slick mags and associated wiring
and installing the wires and switching hardware for the dual P-mags per Bob
Nuckoll's drawing Z-33, which I followed to the letter. Lots of drilling,
pulling wire, on my back under the panel kind of work. The first hitch I encountered
was Saturday night, when I broke a brass adapter in a spark plug hole.
Amazingly, Brad Dement was in the shop on a Texas Saturday evening, building
E-mags for impatient customers, and promised to rush a replacement to me as soon
as possible. The Independence Day holiday put a crimp in that, but I digress...
This is a good place to interject a warning to anyone else taking delivery of their
Emags soon, if you are converting to automotive plugs: do not follow the
instructions for torqueing the adapters first to 25 ft-lbs. At least one of the
adapters is bound to fail. Install the spark plug into the adapter with anti-seize
first, then insert the whole assembly into the cylinder and torque to
15 ft-lbs. Stop there. The plug's steel barrel will support the brass reducer
and prevent it form tearing along the threads as the torque value is reached.
My 14-to-18mm adapter yielded at about 20 ft-lbs and proceeded to split and unwind
about 3/4 turn along the thread line, about 1/3 of the way down from the hex
shoulder. When I felt this happen, I was able to back it out and inspect it.
Given my impatient nature, and since the brass was all still in one piece,
I elected to try reinstalling it with the plug inserted, and it seems to have
done fine at 15 ft-lbs, but I will replace it with a new onebefore flying .
Hope the old reducer comes out in one piece next time like it did the first :-)
Last night was time to install the P-mags themselves in the accessory case and
set the timing, and a most interesting time it was. I was unprepared for the
frustration of trying to install the mags in their holes with new gaskets. The
gaskets kept slipping out of position, and the mags were so tight in the holes
that when seated enough to engage the gear teeth, they were impossible to turn
by hand to dial in the timing. Applying a thick grease film helped keep the
gaskets in place, but did almost nothing to make the P-mags easier to horse
around in the holes. Nothing short of rocking the mags loose in the holes would
free them enough to adjust the timing, so the result was always a huge overshoot
and loss of the precious "green light" LED signal that the timing was right-on.
Never have conventional mags behaved this way for me.
It helped to discover that the mags each needed to rotate the same way the prop
did to recapture the timing mark. I would secure the mag, rock the prop till
the green light came on, then look at where the timing mark was, figure out which
way the mag needed to be repositioned, and try again. Most frustrating of
all was the dozens of times the green light would be on while the mag was in
the clamps finiger-tight, only to see the light go out as the hardware was tightened
down. I struggled with this task for over two hours, and in retrospect
I think I should have taken a file to the aluminum P-mag body to create a little
slack in the fit. I hated the thought of defiling (sorry!) the nice red
anodized finish, even where it would never show. As I wrote to Brad Dement today,
a "wrench" cut from hardwood, large enough to grab the flats on the body
of the P-mag (3 inches wide?) would have helped leverage the mags into final alignment,
if there was enough room to get a grip on t
hem between all the FWF obstacles, which is questionable. I strongly advised
him to machine the next production run a few thousandths narrower and avoid all
this frustration, but at least you, my friends, are hereby warned.
Tonight, raining though it was outside, was time to try 'em out. I put all the
tools away and cleaned up the shop area around the prop arc. Reviewed instructions
on handling the ignitions; I'm looking at all new switches here, new layout,
no labels yet, no turn-key-to-start. Master... boost... prime... mixture...throttle
set... R and L ignitionswitches full-up to BATT position, push the
start toggle up, and - she catches on the first blade and purrs like a kitten.
WOW! Turbine smooth. Tach is reading correctly, no need to adjust the tach
pulse switches to get the correct reading; that's a relief. The GRT EIS seems
happy; all readings are nominal. Run-up and mag check: butter-smooth to 1700
rpm, equal drop on both sides, both switches briefly off and she dies right
away; switches up again and she recovers. Switches halfway down to the on (self-powered)
position and she runs like nothing's amiss: the P-mag internal dynamo
function is taking over for the "loss" of ship'
s power. Yesssss! Feeding throttle in, there's nary a stumble or hesitation.
Pull back to idle, incredibly smooth. Even running on one ignition at a time,
the engine sounds different, stronger somehow, more confident. Yessir, I will
have no hesitation about the upcoming test flights; she sounds really good,
the best she's ever felt. I remember the same sensation after the dynamic balancing
was done, but this takes "smooth" to yet another level.
Last night I admit I was fantasizing about shoving Brad's pointy little head (I
bet in reality he's a big, brawny Texan) into a mag hole and tightening it down
("Tell me when you get a green light, Brad!"). Tonight I think I want to give
him a hug :-x These things are right!
More to come later, of course, when I double-check the green timing light things,
apply Loc-tite to the mag stud bolts, re-cowl, and generally get ready for
flight tests in earnest. I was going to collect some pre-P-mag numbers on Friday,
for a comparison benchmark (I have no new, hard data since a prop re-pitch
this spring) but Friday's test flight was cut short when the carb heat Bowden
cable came out an extra 6 inches in my hand in flight; shucks, it's not supposed
to do that, is it? Better land and check it out. While the cowl is off,
might as well start the P-mag install... so it happened that I have no recent
Slick Mag data to compare against for top speed. I do know my 75% cruise fuel
burn for may years has been 7.8 gph with aggressive leaning, so I can compare
fuel economy with some certainty.
Stay tuned. More to come.
/Stormy out.
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Stan Jones wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
>
>On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
>module I need to install
>under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
>I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
>centre rib, between
>the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
>I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
>a bit of RTV to
>keep the weather out.
>Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
>replace
>a thousand words.
>Stan Jones.
>
>
>
Top and near the bottom of this page:
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FinishKitAssyPg4.htm
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 39
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| Subject: | RE: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Wow! Tagging all those parts seems like a lot of work!
Priming is supposed to result in a thin coat.
I clean my parts with acetone, which removes the Sharpie part nos. As soon
as I clean a part, I re mark the number with the Sharpie.
I place the parts on a screen frame in order and spray away. The part
number still shows thru unless I spray too heavily. If the coat is too
heavy on a few parts, I can re mark them because I set them down in
order. This hasn't happened very often.
FWIW, I am using plain old zinc chromate yellow--don't ask me where I got
it as there isn't enough to go around.
Richard Scott
RV-9A
Wings
Message 40
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| Subject: | RE: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: "glaesers" <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
Here is how I did it:
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~glaesers/RV7A/Graphics/Empennage/Marking%20show
s%20through%20primer.JPG
I am using AFS paint as well, and just used the box from Vans and stuck some
finishing nails in the cardboard to hold the parts.
Dennis Glaeser
RV7A Empennage
-------------------------------------------
-> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of
space.
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