---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 07/07/05: 40 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:26 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Mickey Coggins) 2. 02:38 AM - Looking for Ray Allen Stick Grip (jbs) 3. 05:09 AM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (LarryRobertHelming) 4. 07:00 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht) 5. 07:01 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht) 6. 07:07 AM - Re: Garmin -396 (Jeff Dowling) 7. 07:11 AM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (Walter Tondu) 8. 07:18 AM - Re: Tablesaw? Was Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Clinchy, Dave) 9. 07:49 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 10. 08:19 AM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (Jason Beaver) 11. 09:26 AM - Re: Painting the canopy (Hal Kempthorne) 12. 09:30 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Doug Cook) 13. 09:30 AM - Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (George Inman) 14. 09:30 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht) 15. 10:18 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Paul Folbrecht) 16. 10:30 AM - Re: Fuel inj. exhaust heat muff (Jack Blomgren) 17. 12:19 PM - Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) () 18. 12:19 PM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al)) 19. 12:46 PM - Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 (Kevin Williams) 20. 01:09 PM - Re: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 21. 01:26 PM - Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Paul Folbrecht) 22. 01:47 PM - RV 7 Access Panel (Stan Jones) 23. 01:48 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Frank J. Simutis) 24. 02:15 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Pat Hatch) 25. 02:22 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Joseph Larson) 26. 03:07 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Walter Tondu) 27. 03:10 PM - Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 (Kevin Horton) 28. 03:17 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Paul Folbrecht) 29. 03:21 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Stan Jones) 30. 03:56 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once () 31. 03:58 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Pat Hatch) 32. 04:32 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Gordon or Marge Comfort) 33. 05:15 PM - Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 (c.ennis) 34. 05:24 PM - Re: Garmin -396 (Nick Nafsinger) 35. 05:50 PM - Re: DAR Inspection Video (RV6 Flyer) 36. 06:56 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club) 37. 07:51 PM - P-mag installation report (sportav8r@AOL.COM) 38. 08:38 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Bobby Hester) 39. 09:08 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Richard Scott) 40. 09:19 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (glaesers) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:26:04 AM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the canopy --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins >> Google-ing, I found one experienced person who said most alcohols >> are destructive. > > Years ago there was discussion on this list regarding what isand > isn't ok to use on plexi. Isopropyl alcohol and Naptha came up from > solid sources as the two 'safe' things to use. I have used both at > one time or another with no apparent ill effects then, or now, 7 > years after doing the canopy. Not necessarily authoritative but it's > one more data point. ... Last discussion on this I recall, the safe things were the long chain hydrocarbons, like diesel/kerosene. On Todd's Canopies website he only says this about cleaning: "Use products that are made for cleaning plastic. I use Novus products. Don't use household and glass cleaners. They may and probably do contain chemicals that attack the plastic. If there is a lot of dust on the canopy, spraying compressed air on it works good to get most of it off." I guess one could contact Van's and/or their canopy supplier to get their view. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 02:38:21 AM PST US From: jbs Subject: RV-List: Looking for Ray Allen Stick Grip --> RV-List message posted by: jbs If anyone has the basic Ray Allen stick grip (G101 with just the push to talk button on top) that they wayt to sell; please email me at: skydweller97@yahoo.com ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:09:27 AM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" Walter, I watched it BUT for some reason, I can't seem to terminate the showing of the movie. It plays over and over. I finally had to pull the plug to my computer to stop it. I use XP Home. Ideas? Thanks for the movie all the same. Where did the background music come from? I'd like to buy a copy of that CD. do not archive Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies ----- Original Message ----- From: "Walter Tondu" Subject: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video > --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu > > The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and > getting my cert too. > > http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv > > BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want > to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you > can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection > and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll > learn a bunch and get some great tips too. > -- > Walter Tondu > http://www.rv7-a.com > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:00:22 AM PST US From: Paul Folbrecht Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht It's been awhile but I had adjusted the saw numerous times. Based on all this feedback, yeah, I'm at least going to try it on Al stock. linn walters wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters > >Paul (and other bandsaw owners), a bandsaw that's set up right won't >wander .... unless it's a really cheap ..... and I don't think the Ryobi >fits that category. Look at the head, where the guide wheels are, and >you'll see three screws, two at the side and one at the back. These set >the 'track' of the bandsaw blade. Different blades will have different >thicknesses, and the screws on the side will push the guide bars in >towards the blade to 'straighten' it up. The screw at the back of the >blade is used to keep the sawblade teeth out of those guide bars! So, a >little tweaking here and there should remove the wandering from your >bandsaw. Take your time and do not overtighten. >Linn > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:01:21 AM PST US From: Paul Folbrecht Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht Your link gives "not a valid item". Is this it: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37151 ? do not archive RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" > >No, I'm talking about a benchtop HF bandsaw (similar to the ryobi's) that is variable speed, 12" throat, and I have yet to change the blade, that regularly goes on sale for $99. It also seems to work better at higher speeds (2645 fpm) which tends to make me think the Ryobi will be fine. My only suggestion is try it before you buy a new one. YMMV > > >Michael > > >________________________________ > >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "" > > Paul, I think people are mixing apples and oranges when talking about the Harbor Freight saw. There is a regular wood bandsaw that is very similar to the Ryobi, and there is a metal bandsaw that is very different. The metal bandsaw works excellent. The Ryobi (and other wood bandsaws) typically spin way too fast. The subject saw is frequently on sale for $150. I had to replace blades on the Ryobi every other week until I got the HF metal bandsaw model. Link below.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151 Scott--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 14:54:41 -0500Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure that should be just fine for my needs.Still weighing new blade for the Ryobi vs. HF metal >band saw. Now on sale for $170.do not archiveI have a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily usedmy floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think you'llwant one.I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it doesn't get used asoften as the drill press.As others have suggested, you could try the Ryobi, but the reason touse a band saw is to get better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.It sounds like that's NOT the results you get with the Ryobi. Mypersonal feeling is that you don't want to be cursing the tools youare using. If the tool doesn't work properly, don't use it.I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you asked about an old-6A, I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band saw. Judging bythe level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I suspect youcan get by with the tools you have.If you have any nasty cutting jobs, you could always get > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:07:26 AM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396 --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" Can it display approaches? Shemp ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nick Nafsinger" Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin -396 > --> RV-List message posted by: "Nick Nafsinger" > > > I hope it's as nice as it looks.... Ordered mine this morning. I'll > give a full report as soon as it is in my hands. > > Which I guess means my 196 is now for sale, anyone interested? > > Nick > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henry Hochberg > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396 > > --> RV-List message posted by: Henry Hochberg > > The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the > booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a > look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type > stuff. > Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in OR. > > Weather was poopy though so attendance was down. > > Henry H. > > CBRxxDRV@aol.com wrote: > >>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com >> >>Check out www.garmin.com >>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather. >> >>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and >>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able. >>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :) >> >> >>RV-4 >>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe) >> >> >>Sal Capra >>Lakeland, FL >> My Home Page >> >> >> >> > > > -- > > > -- > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:11:56 AM PST US From: Walter Tondu Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu On 07/07 7:07, LarryRobertHelming wrote: > Walter, I watched it BUT for some reason, I can't seem to terminate the > showing of the movie. It plays over and over. I finally had to pull the > plug to my computer to stop it. I use XP Home. Ideas? What are you saying? You don't want to watch it over and over? :) Have you tried to upgrade your Windows Media Player to the latest version? There may also be a setting where by you can tell the player to Not repeat or Loop on playback, not sure. > Thanks for the movie all the same. Where did the background music come > from? I'd like to buy a copy of that CD. Artist is Bela Fleck. Can't remember the album title. Lot's of twangy country style stuff, some good, some bad. If you have iTunes on your pc (free download), you can sample all his music for nada. And if you like, buy a song for a buck, not bad. I actually have this cd though. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:18:12 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Tablesaw? Was Metal bandsaw for QB kit? From: "Clinchy, Dave" --> RV-List message posted by: "Clinchy, Dave" >What's been your experience with the tablesaw? Any tips for keeping my >fingertips? Best tip: Don't do it! I spent many years in "the trenches" working construction, using all types of circular saws - table, chop, skil, etc, and managed to keep all my fingers. I thought I could use one to do cutting of alum on my project. After several successful cuts on alum pieces I had one bad kick-back; it kicked back so hard that it knocked my hand/arm around behind me... I was afraid to pull my hand back in front of me and look at it because it felt like several fingers were missing! Luckily they were all still there, bruised and cut, but still there. Buy a bandsaw - it's one of the best tool investments I made for building my 7. Dave Clinchy 7 finishing Sacramento Ca ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:49:00 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Hmm, weird. Put in item number 40981 for a item number search and it should come up. You can also just search for band saw and it should be listed. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht Your link gives "not a valid item". Is this it: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151 ? do not archive RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" >--> > >No, I'm talking about a benchtop HF bandsaw (similar to the ryobi's) >that is variable speed, 12" throat, and I have yet to change the blade, >that regularly goes on sale for $99. It also seems to work better at >higher speeds (2645 fpm) which tends to make me think the Ryobi will be >fine. My only suggestion is try it before you buy a new one. YMMV > >> > >Michael > > >________________________________ > >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "" > > Paul, I think people are mixing apples and oranges when talking about >the Harbor Freight saw. There is a regular wood bandsaw that is very >similar to the Ryobi, and there is a metal bandsaw that is very >different. The metal bandsaw works excellent. The Ryobi (and other >wood bandsaws) typically spin way too fast. The subject saw is >frequently on sale for $150. I had to replace blades on the Ryobi >every other week until I got the HF metal bandsaw model. Link >below.... >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151 >Scott--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com >wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com]To: >rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 14:54:41 -0500Subject: Re: >RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul >Folbrecht I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure >that should be just fine for my needs.Still weighing new blade for the >Ryobi vs. HF metal band saw. Now on sale for $170.do not archiveI have >a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily usedmy >floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think >you'llwant one.I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it >doesn't get used asoften as the drill press.As others have suggested, >you could try the Ryobi, but the reason touse a band saw is to get >better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.It sounds like that's NOT >the results you get with the Ryobi. Mypersonal feeling is that you >don't want to be cursing the tools youare using. If the tool doesn't >work properly, don't use it.I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you >asked about an old-6A, I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band >saw. Judging bythe level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I >suspect youcan get by with the tools you have.If you have any nasty >cutting jobs, you could always get > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:19:36 AM PST US From: Jason Beaver Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Beaver The song is "Cheeseballs in Cowtown" off the "Tales from the Acoustic Planet" album (Bela Fleck is one of my favorite artists). The song is also available live on the "Live Art" album. If you like his music, you should really see him live. He's one of the top few banjo players in the world, and he's really taken the banjo a long way beyond bluegrass. If you have iTunes, the following link will take you to the song in the music store: http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/ viewAlbum?playlistId=158146&selectedItemId=158126 do not archive jason On Jul 7, 2005, at 7:11 AM, Walter Tondu wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu > > On 07/07 7:07, LarryRobertHelming wrote: > > >> Walter, I watched it BUT for some reason, I can't seem to >> terminate the >> showing of the movie. It plays over and over. I finally had to >> pull the >> plug to my computer to stop it. I use XP Home. Ideas? >> > > What are you saying? You don't want to watch it over and over? :) > > Have you tried to upgrade your Windows Media Player to the latest > version? There may also be a setting where by you can tell the > player to Not repeat or Loop on playback, not sure. > > >> Thanks for the movie all the same. Where did the background music >> come >> from? I'd like to buy a copy of that CD. >> > > Artist is Bela Fleck. Can't remember the album title. Lot's > of twangy country style stuff, some good, some bad. If you have > iTunes on your pc (free download), you can sample all his music > for nada. And if you like, buy a song for a buck, not bad. I > actually have this cd though. > > -- > Walter Tondu > http://www.rv7-a.com > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:26:00 AM PST US From: Hal Kempthorne Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the canopy --> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne Maybe Van's canopies are mde of this plastic: "A new injection moldable acrylic multi-polymer from Cyro Industries, Rockaway, N.J., provides superior resistance to alcohols, isopropanol, and lipids present in blood products. This acrylic can compete in applications previously limited to lipid-resistant PC and other non-acrylic plastics. Compared with Cyrolite Med, Cyro's first alcohol-resistant acrylic, Cyrolite Med 2 boasts even better alcohol and lipid resistance, plus improved clarity, impact, ductility, and optics after gamma sterilization. Cyrolite Med 2 has a low density of 1.08 g/cc and offers excellent processability for molding complex and thin-walled parts, Cyro claims. It is amenable to solvent bonding or ultrasonic welding and can be sterilized by gamma, E-beam, and ethylene oxide methods." Also I notice that Cee Bailey Plastics actually names methyl and ethyl alcohol and does not mention isopropyl which is rubbing alcohol. Kerosene is okay if you must have something cheap. hal rv6n6r@comcast.net wrote: Isopropyl alcohol and Naptha came up from solid sources as the two 'safe' things to use. I have used both at one time or another with no apparent ill effects then, or now, 7 years after doing the canopy. ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:30:44 AM PST US From: "Doug Cook" Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Cook" Paul, I'm well into my RV-7A Q-Build and have gotten by quite well with a hand hacksaw. I have also used a Sears 3/8 electric drill for the whole project. I attended an RV builders clinic and didn't see the benefit in a high speed, loud, and expensive air drill that I used there. The 3/8 drill is the way to go. Doug - RV-7A in progress in San Diego ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:30:51 AM PST US From: "George Inman" Subject: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? --> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" So why can't you get a metal cutting blade for the Ryobi? They are available in most sizes. > So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop > including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing > cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole > kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo! > > I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less > suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three > counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a > Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will > it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the > hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under > control. > > ~Paul > 9A #1176 GEORGE H. INMAN ghinman@mts.net CELL 204 799 7062 HOME 204 287 8334 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:30:59 AM PST US From: Paul Folbrecht Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht That worked. Yes, this saw is very similar to the Ryobi. do not archive RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" > > Hmm, weird. Put in item number 40981 for a item number search and it should come up. You can also just search for band saw and it should be listed. > >Michael > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? > >--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht > >Your link gives "not a valid item". Is this it: > >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151 > >? > >do not archive > >RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" >>--> >> >>No, I'm talking about a benchtop HF bandsaw (similar to the ryobi's) >>that is variable speed, 12" throat, and I have yet to change the blade, >>that regularly goes on sale for $99. It also seems to work better at >>higher speeds (2645 fpm) which tends to make me think the Ryobi will be >>fine. My only suggestion is try it before you buy a new one. YMMV >>> >> >> >>Michael >> >> >>________________________________ >> >>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of >>To: rv-list@matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? >> >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "" >> >>Paul, I think people are mixing apples and oranges when talking about >>the Harbor Freight saw. There is a regular wood bandsaw that is very >>similar to the Ryobi, and there is a metal bandsaw that is very >>different. The metal bandsaw works excellent. The Ryobi (and other >>wood bandsaws) typically spin way too fast. The subject saw is >>frequently on sale for $150. I had to replace blades on the Ryobi >>every other week until I got the HF metal bandsaw model. Link >>below.... >>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber37151 >>Scott--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com >>wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com]To: >>rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 14:54:41 -0500Subject: Re: >>RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul >>Folbrecht I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure >>that should be just fine for my needs.Still weighing new blade for the >>Ryobi vs. HF metal band saw. Now on sale for $170.do not archiveI have >>a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily usedmy >>floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think >>you'llwant one.I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it >>doesn't get used asoften as the drill press.As others have suggested, >>you could try the Ryobi, but the reason touse a band saw is to get >>better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.It sounds like that's NOT >>the results you get with the Ryobi. Mypersonal feeling is that you >>don't want to be cursing the tools youare using. If the tool doesn't >>work properly, don't use it.I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you >>asked about an old-6A, I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band >>saw. Judging bythe level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I >>suspect youcan get by with the tools you have.If you have any nasty >>cutting jobs, you could always get >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:18:07 AM PST US From: Paul Folbrecht Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht Been thru this now but I was thinking that the Ryobi wandered too much. What I haven't tried yet is setting the guides closer. I am gonna try that and if I need to also try a metal blade. do not archive George Inman wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" > > So why can't you get a metal cutting blade for >the Ryobi? They are available in most sizes. > > > >>So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop >>including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing >>cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole >>kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo! >> >>I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less >>suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three >>counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a >>Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will >>it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the >>hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under >>control. >> >>~Paul >>9A #1176 >> >> > >GEORGE H. INMAN >ghinman@mts.net >CELL 204 799 7062 >HOME 204 287 8334 > > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 10:30:05 AM PST US From: "Jack Blomgren" Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel inj. exhaust heat muff --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" George, I had similar problem with a Vetterman on an IO-360 (180) for my -8. I Swapped exhaust back to Van's for a 2nd Vetterman (also a crossover type) but which might have slightly different straights and bends. I finally got two heat muffs on, one, way forward on right side that impinges a short distance onto two exhanust bends. The other muff sits crossways at back left side. One of many challenges to problem solving (skill?). Hang in there. Jack, #80815 molding gear intersection fairings ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:19:48 PM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) --> RV-List message posted by: Glen: Your right, with ceramic coating will have little if any heat off the heat muff for cabin heat. This may be the single reason, if only one reason for not doing the coating thing, but it is very much an issue since we use exhaust heat to warm the cabin. Using oil cooler for heat, OK. How is that going to work thermodynamically BTU wise, not to mention the engineering of the system. My guess is the 1000F off the exhaust pipe has more heating capacity than the oil cooler at 200-250F. I would imagine having the coating start and stop in the heat muff area would be a no no. With the lack of continuity in coating you would have a hot spot and thermal stresses from different metal temps. Cheers George Match: #4 Message: #131849 Date: Jul 04, 2005 From: Glen Matejcek Subject: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) Hi All- I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic coatings, but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread. What happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction / heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes warm in the wintertime. Thoughts? gm Glen Matejcek ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 12:19:48 PM PST US From: al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al) Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? --> RV-List message posted by: al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al) You may find that the bandsaw will work just fine, I wish I had one. You usually don't want to cut to the final dimension anyway, that's what files and Scotchbrite wheels are for. My solution for cutting all of the narrow stock (bars, tubes, etc.) was to purchase a cutoff miter ("chop") saw from China Depot, er, Home Depot, that was on sale for about $90. I replaced the wood blade with a metal cut-off wheel. Makes cutting angles pretty easy. ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 12:46:52 PM PST US From: "Kevin Williams" Subject: Re: RV-List: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 --> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" In the spirit of Experimental Aircraft. I wanted to ask is there a performance gain / loss to building a custom set of straight pipes that either protrude directly out the left and right side of the cowling or follow a relatively straight path out the bottom of the cowling. I understand with at the actual muffler piece its going to be a fair bit louder in the cockpit. But would you see any performance gains do to a straighter flow and no or limited back pressure? Kevin Yellowknife, NT, Canada ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 01:09:58 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" George, You're right about the heat muff. Not only is it probably not practical but I doubt they even could as it would probably be extremely difficult to "mask" an area inside the pipe. As far as the oil cooler for heating goes, most of the pusher crowd use this arrangement very well for cabin heat. With them you have to worry about getting the oil from the back of the aircraft to the front which introduces the possibility of a burst oil line in the cockpit. With us conventional crowd you could still keep the cooler in the engine compartment and build a shroud around it with a waste gate to divert overboard when not in use. Probably not practical for smaller engines but if you have an oil cooler anyway it might not be much more work and it is a lot safer than taking it off the exhaust. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Tailcone ________________________________ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) --> RV-List message posted by: Glen: Your right, with ceramic coating will have little if any heat off the heat muff for cabin heat. This may be the single reason, if only one reason for not doing the coating thing, but it is very much an issue since we use exhaust heat to warm the cabin. Using oil cooler for heat, OK. How is that going to work thermodynamically BTU wise, not to mention the engineering of the system. My guess is the 1000F off the exhaust pipe has more heating capacity than the oil cooler at 200-250F. I would imagine having the coating start and stop in the heat muff area would be a no no. With the lack of continuity in coating you would have a hot spot and thermal stresses from different metal temps. Cheers George Match: #4 Message: #131849 Date: Jul 04, 2005 From: Glen Matejcek Subject: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) Hi All- I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic coatings, but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread. What happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction / heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes warm in the wintertime. Thoughts? gm Glen Matejcek ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 01:26:04 PM PST US From: Paul Folbrecht Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 01:47:59 PM PST US From: "Stan Jones" Subject: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four module I need to install under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc. I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A centre rib, between the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add a bit of RTV to keep the weather out. Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can replace a thousand words. Stan Jones. ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 01:48:13 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once From: "Frank J. Simutis" --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank J. Simutis" I built a simple wooden frame, about 3 by 6, and stapled chicken wire to it, and laid the entire thing horizontally on top of one of the boxes that the empennage parts came in. I then laid the parts on it, primed them, and as each part dried I turned it over. It dried quickly so it went quickly. It worked great. -- Frank J. Simutis > From: Paul Folbrecht > Reply-To: > Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 15:22:19 -0500 > To: > Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once > > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht > > I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting > AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been > thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction > is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would > welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space. > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 02:15:53 PM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Stan, I highly recommend these access panels on a RV-7 slider and make them as big as the space will allow. Here is a picture of mine: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=148121&ck Let me know if you need more detail and I will send you pictures direct. Pat Hatch RV-6 RV-7 --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four module I need to install under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc. I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A centre rib, between the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add a bit of RTV to keep the weather out. Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can replace a thousand words. Stan Jones. ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 02:22:12 PM PST US From: Joseph Larson Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson I made a "table" from window screen material (bought a roll of it from the hardware store) and set a bunch of parts on that. I cleaned them as I put them on the screen, keeping track of the part numbers and where they were on the screen. Spray one side and allow to dry. Use a sharpie to copy part numbers back on, then flip 'em all over and spray the other sides. For the empennage, this works. It won't work on future kits, as there are just too many parts, but you could modify accordingly. -Joe On Jul 7, 2005, at 3:22 PM, Paul Folbrecht wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht > > > I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting > AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been > thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction > is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. > Would > welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of > space. > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 03:07:53 PM PST US From: Walter Tondu Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu On 07/08 8:44, Stan Jones wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" > > On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four > module I need to install > under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc. > I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A > centre rib, between > the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep > I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add > a bit of RTV to > keep the weather out. > Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can > replace > a thousand words. Lots of people have done this. See entries beginning on 5/19/04 on this page. http://www.rv7-a.com/tipup_canopy.htm See Dan's website too. http://rvproject.com -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 03:10:18 PM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton On 7 Jul 2005, at 15:46, Kevin Williams wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" > > > In the spirit of Experimental Aircraft. I wanted to ask is there a > performance gain / loss to building a custom set of straight pipes > that > either protrude directly out the left and right side of the cowling or > follow a relatively straight path out the bottom of the cowling. > > I understand with at the actual muffler piece its going to be a > fair bit > louder in the cockpit. But would you see any performance gains do > to a > straighter flow and no or limited back pressure? Kevin, Straight pipes exiting the side of the cowling would almost certainly greatly disturb the airflow, and add a lot of drag. You would need to realize a very large horsepower increase just to keep the same speed, in my opinion. So I don't think that is the way to go. The CAFE Foundation did some exhaust system research a few years ago. They tested several different exhaust system configurations, gathering data of pressure at the exhaust port vs crankshaft position. Ideally, the pressure would be low at the exhaust ports during the time that the exhaust valve is open, to help savenge the exhaust gasses from the cylinder. They didn't measure horsepower, but in theory their results should give some clues as to what configuration is best. They concluded that a 4-into-1 configuration was the best bet. See: http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/epg.pdf http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/EPG%20PART%20IV.pdf The first document describes test method, and explains the theory, and the second document summarizes the results. They reference an earlier study of tuned exhaust systems that they did, which was published in the November 1980 Sport Aviation. I'd love to get a copy, if anyone has it in their collection. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 03:17:40 PM PST US From: Paul Folbrecht Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht Oh man, I like this procedure :-> Keeping track of the part #s was something else I've been thinking about. I'm doing a QB so the tail is all I have to worry about priming. do not archive Joseph Larson wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson > >I made a "table" from window screen material (bought a roll of it >from the hardware store) and set a bunch of parts on that. I cleaned >them as I put them on the screen, keeping track of the part numbers >and where they were on the screen. Spray one side and allow to dry. >Use a sharpie to copy part numbers back on, then flip 'em all over >and spray the other sides. > >For the empennage, this works. It won't work on future kits, as >there are just too many parts, but you could modify accordingly. > >-Joe > >On Jul 7, 2005, at 3:22 PM, Paul Folbrecht wrote: > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht >> >> >>I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting >>AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been >>thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction >>is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. >>Would >>welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of >>space. >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 03:21:28 PM PST US From: "Stan Jones" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" Thanks Pat. So, two panels, that looks a lot better than one. Much more rigid. What did you make the panels from, it looks like about 40 thou ?. If so you would need to pack the nutplate ring down? Love the front view of your Prop. That looks a real mean air thrasher. Any other info. on these panels would be appreciated. Stan Jones -------Original Message------- From: Pat Hatch Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Stan, I highly recommend these access panels on a RV-7 slider and make them as big as the space will allow. Here is a picture of mine: http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep87&subpageid148121&ck Let me know if you need more detail and I will send you pictures direct. Pat Hatch RV-6 RV-7 --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four module I need to install under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc. I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A centre rib, between the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add a bit of RTV to keep the weather out. Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can replace a thousand words. Stan Jones. ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 03:56:40 PM PST US From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: Paul, I Etched, Alodined and epoxy primed all my parts. I did nearly every part (including my 1 piece wing skins) using coat hanger or mechanics wire to suspend them. I chose this method for several reasons. It allowed me to dip the parts in the etch and Alodine solutions, rinse them off and hang them up to dry. The next day I was able to prime them without having to touch or handle the actual part. During construction, I had marked each part with a Sharpie pen. Prior to etch, Alodine and prime, I washed all the parts off with lacquer thinner & a ScotchBrite pad. I purchased a batch of ID tags from McMaster Carr to transfer the identification markings. Since the lacquer thinner removed the Sharpie pen markings. These tags are manilla cardboard cards with safety wire attached. I transferred the ID markings to the tags. The tags were then attached to the coat hangers. In this manner, I was able to dip and prime all my parts without handling them prior or during priming. Recently a number of listers have commented about "fish eye" problems during priming. The oil on your skin can cause this sort of problem. Since I went to the trouble of cleaning the parts prior to Alodining and priming, I decided that suspending the parts from coat hangers would insure that I could handle them without touching the parts. It also allowed me to prime ALL the sides of every piece during a single paint session. The next day, after the primer had dried, I cut each part off the coat hangers and transferred the ID markings back onto the parts with my Sharpie pen. I can send you photos of how I did this off list, if you request it. Hope this helps. Charlie Kuss ---- Paul Folbrecht wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht > > I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting > AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been > thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction > is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would > welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space. > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 03:58:49 PM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Stan, I made mine of .032 alum, including the doublers. I used #6 screws with dimpled nutplates. If you are going to use a gasket or RTV, I would suggest a shim between the forward deck skin and the doublers, perhaps .025. Thanks! Pat --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" Thanks Pat. So, two panels, that looks a lot better than one. Much more rigid. What did you make the panels from, it looks like about 40 thou ?. If so you would need to pack the nutplate ring down? Love the front view of your Prop. That looks a real mean air thrasher. Any other info. on these panels would be appreciated. Stan Jones ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 04:32:40 PM PST US From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" Subject: RE: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" -> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space. Paul: I was unable to get small parts to hold still on a screen table when painting with a regular touch up gun. Ended up making several rectangular frames out of CPVC water pipe and fittings which, when equipped with 3/16 eyebolts and J hooks enabled wiring parts in place web fashion using 20 gauge black wire from the hardware store. This enables all over painting in one session by turning the frames. I hang them from a suitable point for spraying and then set them aside to dry. If you build them you will use them many times, including for finish paint. You can spread the elevator/rudder skins for priming the insides for example. I expect to apply finish paint to things like floorboards and side panels using them. I spray the wired parts with xylene and wipe with lint free cloths before applying paint. I've used mil-p23377 primer, self etching primer and Imron paint this way. Your paint may need a different materials approach but the mechanics could be similar. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 05:15:34 PM PST US From: "c.ennis" Subject: Re: RV-List: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 --> RV-List message posted by: "c.ennis" As I understand it, crossover pipes are one way of "tuning" exhaust systems...in an effort to equalize backpressure among the cylinders. Vetterman exhausts seem to be the ultimate compromise, considering the limited space to work with under the cowl. As an afterthought, limited experiance with drag bikes tells me you might encounter sizable problems getting a carburated or injected fuel system to take advantage of an open exhaust system.. "Change one thing and all the domino's fall over." Charlie Ennis ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 05:24:19 PM PST US From: "Nick Nafsinger" Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin -396 --> RV-List message posted by: "Nick Nafsinger" Yes, it displays Approaches. BUT! It only displays from the FAF inbound. Garmin did it that way to keep people from flying a full instrument Approach with it. That being said, I flew it a LOT without a IFR GPS and found that my situational awareness was increased tremendously. Nick Park Rapids Avionics 301 Airport Rd. Hwy 71 South Park Rapids, MN 218.255.2768 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396 --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" Can it display approaches? Shemp ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nick Nafsinger" Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin -396 > --> RV-List message posted by: "Nick Nafsinger" > > > I hope it's as nice as it looks.... Ordered mine this morning. I'll > give a full report as soon as it is in my hands. > > Which I guess means my 196 is now for sale, anyone interested? > > Nick > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henry Hochberg > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396 > > --> RV-List message posted by: Henry Hochberg > > The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the > booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a > look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type > stuff. > Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in OR. > > Weather was poopy though so attendance was down. > > Henry H. > > CBRxxDRV@aol.com wrote: > >>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com >> >>Check out www.garmin.com >>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather. >> >>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and >>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able. >>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :) >> >> >>RV-4 >>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe) >> >> >>Sal Capra >>Lakeland, FL >> My Home Page >> >> >> >> > > > -- > > > -- > > > > > > > -- -- ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 05:50:22 PM PST US From: "RV6 Flyer" Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" You can download a free copy from here on your PC. http://www.bandarchives.org/dldsongs.php Cheeseballs in Cowtown is 7 from the top. Do not archive ----Original Message Follows---- From: Jason Beaver Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Beaver The song is "Cheeseballs in Cowtown" off the "Tales from the Acoustic Planet" album (Bela Fleck is one of my favorite artists). The song is also available live on the "Live Art" album. If you like his music, you should really see him live. He's one of the top few banjo players in the world, and he's really taken the banjo a long way beyond bluegrass. If you have iTunes, the following link will take you to the song in the music store: http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/ viewAlbum?playlistId=158146&selectedItemId=158126 do not archive jason On Jul 7, 2005, at 7:11 AM, Walter Tondu wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu > > On 07/07 7:07, LarryRobertHelming wrote: > > >> Walter, I watched it BUT for some reason, I can't seem to >> terminate the >> showing of the movie. It plays over and over. I finally had to >> pull the >> plug to my computer to stop it. I use XP Home. Ideas? >> > > What are you saying? You don't want to watch it over and over? :) > > Have you tried to upgrade your Windows Media Player to the latest > version? There may also be a setting where by you can tell the > player to Not repeat or Loop on playback, not sure. > > >> Thanks for the movie all the same. Where did the background music >> come >> from? I'd like to buy a copy of that CD. >> > > Artist is Bela Fleck. Can't remember the album title. Lot's > of twangy country style stuff, some good, some bad. If you have > iTunes on your pc (free download), you can sample all his music > for nada. And if you like, buy a song for a buck, not bad. I > actually have this cd though. > > -- > Walter Tondu > http://www.rv7-a.com ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 06:56:11 PM PST US From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" I put one of these panels in my RV6. I am flying but not painted yet. mine is just like the one on the right side of Pat's RV7. It gives me access to the rear of the avionics. I only put one in. I also have removable panel sections, so I can access almost everything that I have installed. I have already needed this access back before I flew, I had to make an avionics change and it was well worth the time to put it in. I have thought about putting one on the other side but I really dont have anything over there that cant be got to by pulling the instrument panel out on that side... I would definitly do it again. and Pat, those pictures are great. I made mine about as big as I could go while allowing for the flange that they scew to. Over all, I would say that this could be done in 3 or 4 hours at the most. I also did not put the center console bracket in, so I have a little easier access to behind the firewall if need be (Brakes or what ever)... Phil in Illinois RV6 N181RV Pat Hatch wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" > >Stan, > >I highly recommend these access panels on a RV-7 slider and make them as big >as the space will allow. Here is a picture of mine: > >http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=148121&ck >Let me know if you need more detail and I will send you pictures direct. > >Pat Hatch >RV-6 >RV-7 > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" > >On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four >module I need to install >under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc. >I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A >centre rib, between >the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep >I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add >a bit of RTV to >keep the weather out. >Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can >replace >a thousand words. >Stan Jones. > > > ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 07:51:13 PM PST US From: sportav8r@AOL.COM Subject: RV-List: P-mag installation report --> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com Many of my fellow rvators have expressed interest in my impressions and experience with E-mag since I received my mags last month. Here's an update on my not-yet-flying installation. I started the job this past Saturday, removing the Slick mags and associated wiring and installing the wires and switching hardware for the dual P-mags per Bob Nuckoll's drawing Z-33, which I followed to the letter. Lots of drilling, pulling wire, on my back under the panel kind of work. The first hitch I encountered was Saturday night, when I broke a brass adapter in a spark plug hole. Amazingly, Brad Dement was in the shop on a Texas Saturday evening, building E-mags for impatient customers, and promised to rush a replacement to me as soon as possible. The Independence Day holiday put a crimp in that, but I digress... This is a good place to interject a warning to anyone else taking delivery of their Emags soon, if you are converting to automotive plugs: do not follow the instructions for torqueing the adapters first to 25 ft-lbs. At least one of the adapters is bound to fail. Install the spark plug into the adapter with anti-seize first, then insert the whole assembly into the cylinder and torque to 15 ft-lbs. Stop there. The plug's steel barrel will support the brass reducer and prevent it form tearing along the threads as the torque value is reached. My 14-to-18mm adapter yielded at about 20 ft-lbs and proceeded to split and unwind about 3/4 turn along the thread line, about 1/3 of the way down from the hex shoulder. When I felt this happen, I was able to back it out and inspect it. Given my impatient nature, and since the brass was all still in one piece, I elected to try reinstalling it with the plug inserted, and it seems to have done fine at 15 ft-lbs, but I will replace it with a new onebefore flying . Hope the old reducer comes out in one piece next time like it did the first :-) Last night was time to install the P-mags themselves in the accessory case and set the timing, and a most interesting time it was. I was unprepared for the frustration of trying to install the mags in their holes with new gaskets. The gaskets kept slipping out of position, and the mags were so tight in the holes that when seated enough to engage the gear teeth, they were impossible to turn by hand to dial in the timing. Applying a thick grease film helped keep the gaskets in place, but did almost nothing to make the P-mags easier to horse around in the holes. Nothing short of rocking the mags loose in the holes would free them enough to adjust the timing, so the result was always a huge overshoot and loss of the precious "green light" LED signal that the timing was right-on. Never have conventional mags behaved this way for me. It helped to discover that the mags each needed to rotate the same way the prop did to recapture the timing mark. I would secure the mag, rock the prop till the green light came on, then look at where the timing mark was, figure out which way the mag needed to be repositioned, and try again. Most frustrating of all was the dozens of times the green light would be on while the mag was in the clamps finiger-tight, only to see the light go out as the hardware was tightened down. I struggled with this task for over two hours, and in retrospect I think I should have taken a file to the aluminum P-mag body to create a little slack in the fit. I hated the thought of defiling (sorry!) the nice red anodized finish, even where it would never show. As I wrote to Brad Dement today, a "wrench" cut from hardwood, large enough to grab the flats on the body of the P-mag (3 inches wide?) would have helped leverage the mags into final alignment, if there was enough room to get a grip on t hem between all the FWF obstacles, which is questionable. I strongly advised him to machine the next production run a few thousandths narrower and avoid all this frustration, but at least you, my friends, are hereby warned. Tonight, raining though it was outside, was time to try 'em out. I put all the tools away and cleaned up the shop area around the prop arc. Reviewed instructions on handling the ignitions; I'm looking at all new switches here, new layout, no labels yet, no turn-key-to-start. Master... boost... prime... mixture...throttle set... R and L ignitionswitches full-up to BATT position, push the start toggle up, and - she catches on the first blade and purrs like a kitten. WOW! Turbine smooth. Tach is reading correctly, no need to adjust the tach pulse switches to get the correct reading; that's a relief. The GRT EIS seems happy; all readings are nominal. Run-up and mag check: butter-smooth to 1700 rpm, equal drop on both sides, both switches briefly off and she dies right away; switches up again and she recovers. Switches halfway down to the on (self-powered) position and she runs like nothing's amiss: the P-mag internal dynamo function is taking over for the "loss" of ship' s power. Yesssss! Feeding throttle in, there's nary a stumble or hesitation. Pull back to idle, incredibly smooth. Even running on one ignition at a time, the engine sounds different, stronger somehow, more confident. Yessir, I will have no hesitation about the upcoming test flights; she sounds really good, the best she's ever felt. I remember the same sensation after the dynamic balancing was done, but this takes "smooth" to yet another level. Last night I admit I was fantasizing about shoving Brad's pointy little head (I bet in reality he's a big, brawny Texan) into a mag hole and tightening it down ("Tell me when you get a green light, Brad!"). Tonight I think I want to give him a hug :-x These things are right! More to come later, of course, when I double-check the green timing light things, apply Loc-tite to the mag stud bolts, re-cowl, and generally get ready for flight tests in earnest. I was going to collect some pre-P-mag numbers on Friday, for a comparison benchmark (I have no new, hard data since a prop re-pitch this spring) but Friday's test flight was cut short when the carb heat Bowden cable came out an extra 6 inches in my hand in flight; shucks, it's not supposed to do that, is it? Better land and check it out. While the cowl is off, might as well start the P-mag install... so it happened that I have no recent Slick Mag data to compare against for top speed. I do know my 75% cruise fuel burn for may years has been 7.8 gph with aggressive leaning, so I can compare fuel economy with some certainty. Stay tuned. More to come. /Stormy out. ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 08:38:11 PM PST US From: Bobby Hester Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester Stan Jones wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" > >On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four >module I need to install >under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc. >I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A >centre rib, between >the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep >I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add >a bit of RTV to >keep the weather out. >Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can >replace >a thousand words. >Stan Jones. > > > Top and near the bottom of this page: http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FinishKitAssyPg4.htm -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 09:08:37 PM PST US From: Richard Scott Subject: RV-List: RE: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott Wow! Tagging all those parts seems like a lot of work! Priming is supposed to result in a thin coat. I clean my parts with acetone, which removes the Sharpie part nos. As soon as I clean a part, I re mark the number with the Sharpie. I place the parts on a screen frame in order and spray away. The part number still shows thru unless I spray too heavily. If the coat is too heavy on a few parts, I can re mark them because I set them down in order. This hasn't happened very often. FWIW, I am using plain old zinc chromate yellow--don't ask me where I got it as there isn't enough to go around. Richard Scott RV-9A Wings ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 09:19:03 PM PST US From: "glaesers" Subject: RV-List: RE: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: "glaesers" Here is how I did it: http://www.wideopenwest.com/~glaesers/RV7A/Graphics/Empennage/Marking%20show s%20through%20primer.JPG I am using AFS paint as well, and just used the box from Vans and stuck some finishing nails in the cardboard to hold the parts. Dennis Glaeser RV7A Empennage ------------------------------------------- -> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space.