Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:49 AM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 06:24 AM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Jeff Dowling)
3. 07:05 AM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (John Danielson)
4. 07:29 AM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
5. 08:54 AM - Spin-on oil filters (Richard Dudley)
6. 09:00 AM - Re:Garmin -396 (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
7. 09:12 AM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (sportav8r@aol.com)
8. 09:12 AM - Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
9. 09:27 AM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (Alex Peterson)
10. 09:32 AM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (John Furey)
11. 09:35 AM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
12. 09:56 AM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (Larry Pardue)
13. 10:08 AM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (linn walters)
14. 10:09 AM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (linn walters)
15. 10:52 AM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (oliver h washburn)
16. 11:31 AM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Paul Folbrecht)
17. 11:43 AM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Konrad L. Werner)
18. 12:31 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Paul Folbrecht)
19. 12:31 PM - Cabin heat from oil cooler (was: Exhaust Wrap Ceramic coating) ()
20. 12:43 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Walter Tondu)
21. 01:23 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Paul Folbrecht)
22. 01:25 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
23. 05:39 PM - Re: Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at ()
24. 07:43 PM - Re:Cabinheat from oil cooler (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
25. 09:54 PM - test (DonVS)
26. 11:51 PM - Cabin heat from oil cooler (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Having done this on 2 rv's now. Here is my simple approach.
1. Get some elcheapo chain link from Home Depot and hang between trees,
or what ever you have or have to concoct.
2. Out of coat hangers, make hooks. Bout 150 of em worked for me.
3. Hang em all, shoot em all.
Neighborhood kids or your own are great for handing you stuff on and off
the hooks as you go. Stuff dries so fast that by the time the chain is
full of parts at the end, the beginning is ready to come off and go on
the shelf for storage.
For any part that did not have a hanging hole, I made one. I primed
every part after inventory using this methos for convenience. From full
sheet skins, to stiffeners. It is an all day affair, but not as bad as
trying to prime as you go IMHO.
Anything I missed or needed hitting again after fabrication got the
primer rattle can touch up.
Best,
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of
space.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Just a comment to Walter and all the other guys who spend a lot of time
sharing their hard work with the rest of us. THANKS!! I just viewed your
web site and am very impressed. Im not surprised you had no problems with
your inspection. I was in such a hurry to get mine flying I didnt even take
pictures.
Good luck on your first flight (if you havent done it already)
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> On 07/08 8:44, Stan Jones wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
> >
> > On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
> > module I need to install
> > under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
> > I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the
> > 7108A
> > centre rib, between
> > the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
> > I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and
> > add
> > a bit of RTV to
> > keep the weather out.
> > Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture
> > can
> > replace
> > a thousand words.
>
> Lots of people have done this.
> See entries beginning on 5/19/04 on this page.
>
> http://www.rv7-a.com/tipup_canopy.htm
>
> See Dan's website too.
>
> http://rvproject.com
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
Don't take the time to make all those hooks to hang light weight parts
on. Go out and buy some large paper clips. They work great.
I like the chicken wire approach best.
The hanging parts will turn and fly around while you spray them.
While parts can fly off the chicken wire if your not careful they do
seem to stay in place if you do your part.
John L. Danielson
Message 4
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| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
You are correct the parts will fly if you spray them on the hook.
Im handed a part, I spray it in my hand with the hook on it. Then I hang
it up to dry. Gets all sides done at once. I do hang the sheets and
spray those hanging up.
Mike
Do not archive.
Oh and I do like the large paperclip idea. Didn't think of that. Most
excellent!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Danielson
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at
once
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
Don't take the time to make all those hooks to hang light weight parts
on. Go out and buy some large paper clips. They work great.
I like the chicken wire approach best.
The hanging parts will turn and fly around while you spray them.
While parts can fly off the chicken wire if your not careful they do
seem to stay in place if you do your part.
John L. Danielson
Message 5
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| Subject: | Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Listers,
After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
down with paper towels.
The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
semi satisfactory.
Would you share your tricks and techniques learned from experience?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
-6A 50+ hours
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Actually, it appears the 396 came out for Arlington, as they were demo-ing
it there yesterday. Very impressive but $2400 and $50 a month. Great for you
daily IFR flyers out there...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: RV-List: Garmin -396
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Check out www.garmin.com
The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
RV-4
RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Richard: I have a spin on filter remote adapter on the firewall, so mine is hanging
vertically; not much mess except what leaks out of the hoses. I tape a
plastic drop cloth piece to the firewall behind the filter mount, with the end
hanging in a 5 gal bucket to divert the runoff.
Filter media analysis is a messy story any way you cut it <sorry>. I take the
media and center baffle tube out of the cut-open can and lay it on a rag. Then
a sharp snap-off knife (99 cent orange handle type) is used to cut the paper
pleats at the edges of the metal flanges, all the way down to the center metal
tube. A rocking, sawing motion helps push the blade to the bottom of the pleats.
Once this is done on both sides, the paper tears out in one long accordion
sheet quite easily (I did not say cleanly).
I usually tear the strip into 2 or 3 shorter sections and run them through a gasoline
bath (margarine bowl) to liberate the metal particles from the oily paper.
A magnet is handy for separating the ferrous from the non-ferrous particles
(there are always some of each, in a slurry at the bottom of the gasoline bath.)
I then inspect the paper on both sides in direct sunlight for any large
particles that may remain stuck. If I ever found a big sliver this way, I would
send it off for microscopic analysis at AOA.
What to make of the metal you find is another story in itself. If it;s just a
pinch, I tend to regrard that as normal and keep going, so long as the spectral
analysis looks good. I'm sure you will collect a thousand opinions here as
to what metal means and how much to tolerate finding in the filter.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Spin-on oil filters
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Listers,
After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
down with paper towels.
The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
semi satisfactory.
Would you share your tricks and techniques learned from experience?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
-6A 50+ hours
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
I am *mostly* done with a QB -6a, have a 9" Ryobi that has served me well.
However, given the opportunity, I would buy one with a deeper throat, say 12",
and the HF one at $170 might be the way to go. I have also found that if you
keep the blade "tuned" with the adjusting wheels, it tracks much better, and
btw, I always apply a bit of Boelube to the blade before use. So far I have
only replaced the blade once, and that was before I found out about the
Boelube years ago on this very list...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
From: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
I have a (surprise) Ryobi 10" drill press. I am pretty sure that should
be just fine for my needs.
Still weighing new blade for the Ryobi vs. HF metal band saw. Now on
sale for $170.
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> down with paper towels.
Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to be
the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I drain
the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes it a
LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in the
milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a basting
bulb.
>
> The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
> filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
> tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
> semi satisfactory.
Single edge razor blades.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 635 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 10
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| Subject: | Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I think I have tried every method there is with poor results most times. Now
I take a rectangular plastic bottle and cut the bottom 1/2" off. I can slip
it up under the filter so that when I spin the filter off the plastic pan
stays in place and catches all of the oil from the filter and what comes out
of the engine. After the engine drains I remove the pan and spin on the new
filter. Never a drop anywhere. I cut the filter paper on both sides all the
way around with any old box cutter or knife and pull it out with in 1 or 2
sections.
John
RV6A O-320
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Richard,
Loosen the oil filter with your wrench until you can turn it by hand. Then
with a centerpunch or sharp screw driver and a hammer, punch a hole in the
side of the filter. Then turn the filter 180 degrees and let the oil drain
out of that hole into a cup. Then unscrew the filter the rest of the way.
There will still be a little mess, but it will be much more manageable. If
you want to see it being done, its a part of our Annual Inspection -
Powerplant video.
As far as getting the medium out, use a strong serrated knife and just work
at it. It is a pain in the butt, but once you do it few times, it gets
easier.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Spin-on oil filters
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> down with paper towels.
>
> The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
> filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
> tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
> semi satisfactory.
>
> Would you share your tricks and techniques learned from experience?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A 50+ hours
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
autolearn=ham version=3.0.2
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> down with paper towels.
>
I cut the bottom out of a one gallon plastic milk jug then wedge it in, from
the bottom, in such a way that the edge goes past the lip of the filter.
The oil that starts dripping as you remove the filter goes right into the
jug. Remove the filter while keeping the jug sort of upright.
I have gone from making a huge mess every change, to spilling from nothing
to maybe a couple of drops, using this system.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Haven't seen this suggestion yet: For the horiaontl flters, take a nail
and punch a hole in the 'top' of the can near the bottom. Place milk
bottle/cut oil bottle/jar etc. underneath the filter to catch the oil
from the hole you just punched. Unscrew the filter 1/2 turn and punch
another hole in the 'top'. This will take care of most of the oil
captured in the filter and let it drain into the engine or your catch can.
Linn
Alex Peterson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>>
>>Hi Listers,
>>
>>After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
>>to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
>>have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
>>from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
>>so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
>>down with paper towels.
>>
>>
>
>Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to be
>the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
>forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
>punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I drain
>the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
>back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes it a
>LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in the
>milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a basting
>bulb.
>
>
>
>
>>The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
>>filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
>>tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
>>semi satisfactory.
>>
>>
>
>Single edge razor blades.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6A N66AP 635 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Haven't seen this suggestion yet: For the horiaontl flters, take a nail
and punch a hole in the 'top' of the can near the bottom. Place milk
bottle/cut oil bottle/jar etc. underneath the filter to catch the oil
from the hole you just punched. Unscrew the filter 1/2 turn and punch
another hole in the 'top'. This will take care of most of the oil
captured in the filter and let it drain into the engine or your catch
can. Placing a baggie over the filter when you get ready to remove it
helps too.
Linn
Alex Peterson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>>
>>Hi Listers,
>>
>>After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
>>to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
>>have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
>>from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
>>so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
>>down with paper towels.
>>
>>
>
>Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to be
>the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
>forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
>punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I drain
>the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
>back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes it a
>LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in the
>milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a basting
>bulb.
>
>
>
>
>>The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
>>filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
>>tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
>>semi satisfactory.
>>
>>
>
>Single edge razor blades.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6A N66AP 635 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: "oliver h washburn" <ollie6a@earthlink.net>
Also if you don't have a lot of room do every you said except use a doggie
bag or zip lock over the filter and let the oil drain into that.Works for
me.
Ollie Washburn Central FL.
> [Original Message]
> From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 7/8/2005 1:08:58 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Spin-on oil filters
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Haven't seen this suggestion yet: For the horiaontl flters, take a nail
> and punch a hole in the 'top' of the can near the bottom. Place milk
> bottle/cut oil bottle/jar etc. underneath the filter to catch the oil
> from the hole you just punched. Unscrew the filter 1/2 turn and punch
> another hole in the 'top'. This will take care of most of the oil
> captured in the filter and let it drain into the engine or your catch
> can. Placing a baggie over the filter when you get ready to remove it
> helps too.
> Linn
>
>
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
> >>
> >>Hi Listers,
> >>
> >>After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> >>to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> >>have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> >>from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> >>so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> >>down with paper towels.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to
be
> >the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
> >forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
> >punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I
drain
> >the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
> >back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes
it a
> >LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in
the
> >milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a
basting
> >bulb.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
> >>filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
> >>tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
> >>semi satisfactory.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Single edge razor blades.
> >
> >Alex Peterson
> >RV6A N66AP 635 hours
> >Maple Grove, MN
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Don't most (many?) elect to not prime the alclad skins? I am not
planning on doing the skins.
Perhaps a long thread on priming is in order? (Ducking...)
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>
>You are correct the parts will fly if you spray them on the hook.
>Im handed a part, I spray it in my hand with the hook on it. Then I hang
>it up to dry. Gets all sides done at once. I do hang the sheets and
>spray those hanging up.
>Mike
>Do not archive.
>
>Oh and I do like the large paperclip idea. Didn't think of that. Most
>excellent!
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Danielson
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at
>once
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
>
>Don't take the time to make all those hooks to hang light weight parts
>on. Go out and buy some large paper clips. They work great.
>I like the chicken wire approach best.
>The hanging parts will turn and fly around while you spray them.
>While parts can fly off the chicken wire if your not careful they do
>seem to stay in place if you do your part.
>
>John L. Danielson
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Paul,
You may be able to duck, . . . but you can't disappear !
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Folbrecht
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Don't most (many?) elect to not prime the alclad skins? I am not
planning on doing the skins.
Perhaps a long thread on priming is in order? (Ducking...)
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>
>You are correct the parts will fly if you spray them on the hook.
>Im handed a part, I spray it in my hand with the hook on it. Then I hang
>it up to dry. Gets all sides done at once. I do hang the sheets and
>spray those hanging up.
>Mike
>Do not archive.
>
>Oh and I do like the large paperclip idea. Didn't think of that. Most
>excellent!
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Danielson
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at
>once
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
>
>Don't take the time to make all those hooks to hang light weight parts
>on. Go out and buy some large paper clips. They work great.
>I like the chicken wire approach best.
>The hanging parts will turn and fly around while you spray them.
>While parts can fly off the chicken wire if your not careful they do
>seem to stay in place if you do your part.
>
>John L. Danielson
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
Nobody wants the priming thread.. I don't think I could ever read
another post on the subject again after scouring the archives months ago..
do not archive
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
>
>Paul,
>You may be able to duck, . . . but you can't disappear !
>
>
>do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Paul Folbrecht
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 12:28 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
> Don't most (many?) elect to not prime the alclad skins? I am not
> planning on doing the skins.
>
> Perhaps a long thread on priming is in order? (Ducking...)
>
> Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
> >
> >You are correct the parts will fly if you spray them on the hook.
> >Im handed a part, I spray it in my hand with the hook on it. Then I hang
> >it up to dry. Gets all sides done at once. I do hang the sheets and
> >spray those hanging up.
> >Mike
> >Do not archive.
> >
> >Oh and I do like the large paperclip idea. Didn't think of that. Most
> >excellent!
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Danielson
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at
> >once
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
> >
> >Don't take the time to make all those hooks to hang light weight parts
> >on. Go out and buy some large paper clips. They work great.
> >I like the chicken wire approach best.
> >The hanging parts will turn and fly around while you spray them.
> >While parts can fly off the chicken wire if your not careful they do
> >seem to stay in place if you do your part.
> >
> >John L. Danielson
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Cabin heat from oil cooler (was: Exhaust Wrap Ceramic coating) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Has anyone used the oil cooler to heat their RV cabin? (as a stand alone cabin
heater with out an exhaust heat muff)
As Michael Sausen stated the Long-EZ guys do this, but their cabin is smaller and
may be better insulated. Is there enough heat coming off the oil cooler at
altitude to heat the cabin. In cruise at altitude the oil temp is lower because
the engine is at a lower power output and the ambient air temps are cooler.
Cheers George
Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
George,
You're right about the heat muff. Not only is it probably not practical
but
I doubt they even could as it would probably be extremely difficult to "mask"
an area inside the pipe. As far as the oil cooler for heating goes, most
of the
pusher crowd use this arrangement very well for cabin heat. With them you
have to worry about getting the oil from the back of the aircraft to the
front
which introduces the possibility of a burst oil line in the cockpit. With
us
conventional crowd you could still keep the cooler in the engine compartment
and build a shroud around it with a waste gate to divert overboard when not
in
use.
Probably not practical for smaller engines but if you have an oil cooler
anyway
it might not be much more work and it is a lot safer than taking it off the
exhaust.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Glen:
Your right, with ceramic coating will have little if any heat off the heat
muff
for cabin heat. This may be the single reason, if only one reason for not
doing
the coating thing, but it is very much an issue since we use exhaust heat
to
warm the cabin. Using oil cooler for heat, OK. How is that going to work
thermodynamically
BTU wise, not to mention the engineering of the system. My guess
is the 1000F off the exhaust pipe has more heating capacity than the oil
cooler
at 200-250F.
I would imagine having the coating start and stop in the heat muff area would
be
a no no. With the lack of continuity in coating you would have a hot spot
and
thermal stresses from different metal temps.
Cheers George
Match: #4 Message: #131849 Date: Jul 04, 2005 From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Subject: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic
coatings,
but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread.
What
happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand
that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction
/ heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes
warm
in the wintertime. Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
---------------------------------
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 07/08 1:28, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
> Don't most (many?) elect to not prime the alclad skins? I am not
> planning on doing the skins.
>
> Perhaps a long thread on priming is in order? (Ducking...)
Ok, I just gotta leap in here with both feet and arms flailing.
If (when) I build the next plane (aluminum of course) I will
NOT
prime anything. There, I said it and I meant it.
I could have built my plane several months earlier had I not
primed. It would have cost less. It would weigh less. I wouldn't
have cans of nasty primer mix sitting in my garage. I would
have one less HVLP paint gun, on and on and on and on. Do
you know how many hangers I could have saved? They never
had a chance.
And the plane is still going to outlast my desire to fly it.
And it's resale value is going to be just as much as primed,
ok maybe a few percent less, Big Deal. We worry about that
but we consider the time (2000+ hrs.) we put into the plane
as free? Yeah, that makes sense.
Don't Do It. Just, step away from the primer and walk back
into the house. Have a cold one and start riveting, without
priming. This is the only way to kill the primer war thread.
:)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
For me, doing a QB, the primer question is less weighty because there's
so little of it to do. (QBs are primed with SW wash of course.)
I've already got my $30 HVLP touch-up gun and my $50 worth of AFS
products. I'll spend one morning priming and I'm done for good. I can
handle that. :->
do not archive
Walter Tondu wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
>On 07/08 1:28, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Don't most (many?) elect to not prime the alclad skins? I am not
> > planning on doing the skins.
> >
> > Perhaps a long thread on priming is in order? (Ducking...)
>
>Ok, I just gotta leap in here with both feet and arms flailing.
>If (when) I build the next plane (aluminum of course) I will
>
> NOT
>
>prime anything. There, I said it and I meant it.
>
>I could have built my plane several months earlier had I not
>primed. It would have cost less. It would weigh less. I wouldn't
>have cans of nasty primer mix sitting in my garage. I would
>have one less HVLP paint gun, on and on and on and on. Do
>you know how many hangers I could have saved? They never
>had a chance.
>
>And the plane is still going to outlast my desire to fly it.
>And it's resale value is going to be just as much as primed,
>ok maybe a few percent less, Big Deal. We worry about that
>but we consider the time (2000+ hrs.) we put into the plane
>as free? Yeah, that makes sense.
>
>Don't Do It. Just, step away from the primer and walk back
>into the house. Have a cold one and start riveting, without
>priming. This is the only way to kill the primer war thread.
>
>:)
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Only way to kill the primer war thread? Sounds like a shot across the prop to
me. ;-)
Do not archive !
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Walter Tondu
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 07/08 1:28, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht@yahoo.com>
>
> Don't most (many?) elect to not prime the alclad skins? I am not
> planning on doing the skins.
>
> Perhaps a long thread on priming is in order? (Ducking...)
Ok, I just gotta leap in here with both feet and arms flailing.
If (when) I build the next plane (aluminum of course) I will
NOT
prime anything. There, I said it and I meant it.
I could have built my plane several months earlier had I not
primed. It would have cost less. It would weigh less. I wouldn't
have cans of nasty primer mix sitting in my garage. I would
have one less HVLP paint gun, on and on and on and on. Do
you know how many hangers I could have saved? They never
had a chance.
And the plane is still going to outlast my desire to fly it.
And it's resale value is going to be just as much as primed,
ok maybe a few percent less, Big Deal. We worry about that
but we consider the time (2000+ hrs.) we put into the plane
as free? Yeah, that makes sense.
Don't Do It. Just, step away from the primer and walk back
into the house. Have a cold one and start riveting, without
priming. This is the only way to kill the primer war thread.
:)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at |
once
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Richard,
Yes, tagging the parts adds work. I live in SE Florida (Corrosion Capital of the
World), so I applied two coats of Mil Spec epoxy primer. This would be over
kill for most folks on the list. The second coat always buried the Sharpie ID
marks, so I resorted to the tags.
Your method sound like a good way to go for folks living in more moderate climates.
Charlie Kuss
---- Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
>
> Wow! Tagging all those parts seems like a lot of work!
>
> Priming is supposed to result in a thin coat.
>
> I clean my parts with acetone, which removes the Sharpie part nos. As soon
> as I clean a part, I re mark the number with the Sharpie.
>
> I place the parts on a screen frame in order and spray away. The part
> number still shows thru unless I spray too heavily. If the coat is too
> heavy on a few parts, I can re mark them because I set them down in
> order. This hasn't happened very often.
>
> FWIW, I am using plain old zinc chromate yellow--don't ask me where I got
> it as there isn't enough to go around.
>
> Richard Scott
> RV-9A
> Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re:Cabinheat from oil cooler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Definitely not worth the trouble to install for a test. I tried it and it
doesn't work well at all.
When you throttle back a bit for a long descent from altitude you'll freeze
your butt.
The oil cooler only gives temps. in the 250 degree range. An exhaust heat
muff gets heat in the 1200 - 1400 degree range. No comparison in efficiency.
Hope this helps.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
test
Message 26
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| Subject: | Cabin heat from oil cooler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> The oil cooler only gives temps. in the 250 degree range. An exhaust heat
> muff gets heat in the 1200 - 1400 degree range. No comparison in efficiency.
> Hope this helps.
As you said, there are huge differences in how you
get heat into the cabin if your source is 1200F or
if it is 200F.
I think the only way to make this work would be to do
it like in autos - that is to bring a small heat exchanger
into the cabin. Of course, in cars the heater core is
circulating engine coolant, which never gets much over
the boiling point of water.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
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