Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:00 AM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Stan Jones)
2. 07:30 AM - oshkosh- Univ of Wisc. room (Don Wilson)
3. 07:31 AM - Problem with instrument panel fit (Steve Struyk)
4. 08:19 AM - Re: Problem with instrument panel fit (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
5. 08:40 AM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Kevin Williams)
6. 09:06 AM - lubricating rod end bearings (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
7. 09:13 AM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Charlie England)
8. 10:26 AM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Chopper 2)
9. 10:27 AM - Re: lubricating rod end bearings (Jeff Point)
10. 10:45 AM - RV 6A Wings and main landing gear on E-Bay (Zeidman, Richard B)
11. 10:47 AM - Re: Problem with instrument panel fit (Mickey Coggins)
12. 10:56 AM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Kevin Horton)
13. 11:15 AM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Jerry Springer)
14. 11:23 AM - Re: RV 6A Wings and main landing gear on E-Bay (flynlow)
15. 11:38 AM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (HCRV6@aol.com)
16. 02:53 PM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Kevin Horton)
17. 03:12 PM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Tracy Crook)
18. 03:33 PM - Re: Spin-on oil filters (Richard Dudley)
19. 05:40 PM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Jeff Dowling)
20. 07:59 PM - Re: lubricating rod end bearings (Martin Hone)
21. 09:43 PM - Re: RV 7 Access Panel (Phil Birkelbach)
22. 09:57 PM - Re: Blasphemy or what? (Chuck)
23. 10:16 PM - Oshkosh (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
Cum'on Walter, forget about round head rivets and prime versus not.
I access your site twice daily to see your first flight.
Get on with it. Love Your videos.Waiting for the next.
Pity about the trainer wheel.
Stan J
-------Original Message-------
From: Walter Tondu
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blasphemy or what?
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 07/09 5:33, Chuck wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
>
> I know some will say this question is sacrilegious, but ... Has
anyone used round head rivets to build an RV or are there any estimates on
drag/lost performance with round verses flush rivets?
Since you did not include "do not archive" in your post,
this question will forever be linked solidly to your name.
Over the years, I'm sure it will garner many a good laugh.
DO NOT ARCHIVE :)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | oshkosh- Univ of Wisc. room |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Wilson <dcwilson@budget.net>
I have a room reserved and paid for which is available. Cost is $44 per
night. I paid for 3 nights which can be extended for the entire week.
Anyone interested please contact me off list. Thanks--Don
Message 3
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| Subject: | Problem with instrument panel fit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Anybody have this problem?
I finished my panel months ago and trial fit it several times with the top skin
clecoed on. Everything fit and all holes around the perimeter of the panel lined
up. Now with the top skin riveted on, the windshield and canopy done, I tried
to install the completed panel. Some of the mounting holes are off by half
a hole. I assume the top skin, in the process of riveting, changed the geometry
of the panel opening.
The fix will be replacing the nut plates with floaters and opening the holes a
bit but what a pain. In retrospect I'd put floaters there in the first place.
Something to think about if you have not done yours yet.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles, MO
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Problem with instrument panel fit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Steve, The instrument panel or a mock up out of plywood should be in place
as you rivet the top skin down.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Problem with instrument panel fit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
>
> Anybody have this problem?
>
> I finished my panel months ago and trial fit it several times with the top
> skin clecoed on. Everything fit and all holes around the perimeter of the
> panel lined up. Now with the top skin riveted on, the windshield and
> canopy done, I tried to install the completed panel. Some of the mounting
> holes are off by half a hole. I assume the top skin, in the process of
> riveting, changed the geometry of the panel opening.
>
> The fix will be replacing the nut plates with floaters and opening the
> holes a bit but what a pain. In retrospect I'd put floaters there in the
> first place. Something to think about if you have not done yours yet.
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S
> St. Charles, MO
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Tisk tisk Walter. This is an experimental aircraft. Here we all are
discussing the standard way to construct these planes and forgetting
altogether the true nature of experimental and that is to try out new ideas.
What if its discovered that we could use pop rivets on 50 75% of the
plane and only loose 5-10kts. That would be a huge time savings for a small
price in speed.
So here I am laughing but not at the original poster, instead at the rest of
us who scoff at someone who asks what if.
Chuck, my suggestion would be at the minimum to have flush rivets on the
leading edges.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
From: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blasphemy or what?
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 07/09 5:33, Chuck wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
>
> I know some will say this question is sacrilegious, but ... Has
anyone used round head rivets to build an RV or are there any estimates on
drag/lost performance with round verses flush rivets?
Since you did not include "do not archive" in your post,
this question will forever be linked solidly to your name.
Over the years, I'm sure it will garner many a good laugh.
DO NOT ARCHIVE :)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | lubricating rod end bearings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
I've been looking over Randy Pflanzer's annual inspection checklist for
vansairforce.net and I see he specifies lubrication of all the rod end
bearings on the elevator, rudder, and ailerons.
First, I didn't know that these bearings need periodic lubrication, and now
assuming they do, what is everyone using for lubrication?
Thanks,
Andy
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
The Thorp T-18 was designed for construction with pulled rivets (and
pre-dated everybody else by about 25 years with matched-hole tooling ).
T-18's fly very well, with handling similar to RV's & cruise speeds that
are almost as good.
If flush head pulled rivets were used & the heads filled with one of the
new hi tech fillers, the only difference from a regular RV should be a
few extra pounds of rivet weight.
It's not hard to see the attraction for someone without easily
accessible bucking partners.
Charlie
Kevin Williams wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
>Tisk tisk Walter. This is an experimental aircraft. Here we all are
>discussing the standard way to construct these planes and forgetting
>altogether the true nature of experimental and that is to try out new ideas.
>
>What if its discovered that we could use pop rivets on 50 75% of the
>plane and only loose 5-10kts. That would be a huge time savings for a small
>price in speed.
>
>So here I am laughing but not at the original poster, instead at the rest of
>us who scoff at someone who asks what if.
>
>
>Chuck, my suggestion would be at the minimum to have flush rivets on the
>leading edges.
>
>
>Kevin
>
>Yellowknife, NT, Canada
>
>
>From: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Blasphemy or what?
>Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2005 21:52:35 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
>On 07/09 5:33, Chuck wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
> >
> > I know some will say this question is sacrilegious, but ... Has
>anyone used round head rivets to build an RV or are there any estimates on
>drag/lost performance with round verses flush rivets?
>
>Since you did not include "do not archive" in your post,
>this question will forever be linked solidly to your name.
>Over the years, I'm sure it will garner many a good laugh.
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE :)
>--
>Walter Tondu
>http://www.rv7-a.com
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chopper 2" <mkellems@bellsouth.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blasphemy or what?
I know of 2 RV3's that are completely round head popped on the bottom of the
wings - Both cruise at 190+ with 150hp. Would they be faster with
flush/hammered rivits? Stronger? Weaker? Safer? Just curious. Mike --
RV4/580RG
Do Not Archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> The Thorp T-18 was designed for construction with pulled rivets (and
> pre-dated everybody else by about 25 years with matched-hole tooling ).
> T-18's fly very well, with handling similar to RV's & cruise speeds that
> are almost as good.
> Charlie
>
> Kevin Williams wrote:
>
>>What if its discovered that we could use pop rivets on 50 75% of the
>>plane and only loose 5-10kts. That would be a huge time savings for a
>>small
>>price in speed.
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE :)
>>--
>>Walter Tondu
>>http://www.rv7-a.com
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
LPS2 works well, in a spray can ala WD40, available at any hardware store.
Jeff Point
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV 6A Wings and main landing gear on E-Bay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Zeidman, Richard B" <richard.b.zeidman@boeing.com>
RV Listers,
Just a reminder that the wings, bulkhead and main landing gear from my
RV6A that was in a forced landing accident are on auction on E-bay and
the auction ends in about 24 hours. I believe that it would be a fairly
easy repair due to the pre-puched skins that were used in the original
construction.The reserve price of $500 has been met, but I think the
fuel tanks alone are worth that much. I've decided to rebuild with an
RV7 so not too much would fit. If you have any questions, I can be
reached at 610-591-8747 (W) or 610-358-1727.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=45601
88651&category=63679&sspagename=WDVW
Thanks for looking!
Rich Zeidman
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Problem with instrument panel fit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Anybody have this problem?
>
> I finished my panel months ago and trial fit it several times with
> the top skin clecoed on. Everything fit and all holes around the
> perimeter of the panel lined up. Now with the top skin riveted on,
> the windshield and canopy done, I tried to install the completed
> panel. Some of the mounting holes are off by half a hole. I assume
> the top skin, in the process of riveting, changed the geometry of the
> panel opening.
>
> The fix will be replacing the nut plates with floaters and opening
> the holes a bit but what a pain. In retrospect I'd put floaters there
> in the first place. Something to think about if you have not done
> yours yet.
As Tom mentioned, you need to make sure the instrument panel is in
there when you rivet the top skin. I had a very similar problem
when I drilled the holes for the F-821PP skin - afterwards the
instrument panel didn't fit. I ended up buying the parts to the
left and right of the panel again, and re-drilling the holes and
installing the the nutplates. I had to cut out about 1/4" at
the top.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
But, pulled rivets aren't as strong as solid rivets (unless you use
the expensive CherryMax rivets, which have fatigue life issues). So,
either need to decrease the rivet pitch (which won't work if you have
a pre-punched kit), or up the size to 1/8 inch (if that gives
equivalent strength to 3/32 solid rivets).
And this would only work if you knew that you would never want to
sell the aircraft. You would have a very hard time selling an RV
with a substantial number of pulled or round headed rivets.
Kevin Horton
On 10 Jul 2005, at 12:10, Charlie England wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> The Thorp T-18 was designed for construction with pulled rivets (and
> pre-dated everybody else by about 25 years with matched-hole
> tooling ).
> T-18's fly very well, with handling similar to RV's & cruise speeds
> that
> are almost as good.
>
> If flush head pulled rivets were used & the heads filled with one
> of the
> new hi tech fillers, the only difference from a regular RV should be a
> few extra pounds of rivet weight.
>
> It's not hard to see the attraction for someone without easily
> accessible bucking partners.
>
> Charlie
>
> Kevin Williams wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams"
>> <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Tisk tisk Walter. This is an experimental aircraft. Here we all are
>> discussing the standard way to construct these planes and forgetting
>> altogether the true nature of experimental and that is to try out
>> new ideas.
>>
>> What if its discovered that we could use pop rivets on 50 75% of the
>> plane and only loose 5-10kts. That would be a huge time savings
>> for a small
>> price in speed.
>>
>> So here I am laughing but not at the original poster, instead at
>> the rest of
>> us who scoff at someone who asks what if.
>>
>>
>> Chuck, my suggestion would be at the minimum to have flush rivets
>> on the
>> leading edges.
>>
>>
>> Kevin
>>
>> Yellowknife, NT, Canada
>>
>>
>> From: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Blasphemy or what?
>> Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2005 21:52:35 -0400
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>>
>> On 07/09 5:33, Chuck wrote:
>>
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> I know some will say this question is sacrilegious, but ... Has
>>>
>> anyone used round head rivets to build an RV or are there any
>> estimates on
>> drag/lost performance with round verses flush rivets?
>>
>> Since you did not include "do not archive" in your post,
>> this question will forever be linked solidly to your name.
>> Over the years, I'm sure it will garner many a good laugh.
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE :)
>> --
>> Walter Tondu
>> http://www.rv7-a.com
>>
>>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Kevin Horton wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>But, pulled rivets aren't as strong as solid rivets (unless you use
>the expensive CherryMax rivets, which have fatigue life issues). So,
>either need to decrease the rivet pitch (which won't work if you have
>a pre-punched kit), or up the size to 1/8 inch (if that gives
>equivalent strength to 3/32 solid rivets).
>
>And this would only work if you knew that you would never want to
>sell the aircraft. You would have a very hard time selling an RV
>with a substantial number of pulled or round headed rivets.
>
>Kevin Horton
>
>
>
>
And you base that on what Kevin? BTW most of the aircraft that use
pulled rivits do use 1/8"
In the early 1970's I built an all metal aircraft called a Mini Coupe it
used all steel cadium plated 1/8"
pop rivets. I had an engine failure with the VW engine that was in it
and ended up upside down in
a field. Tore metal everywhere but not one rivet pulled loose. I rebuilt
it and it was still flying up
to about 5 years ago when the current owner made a hard landng with it.
I know that the person
I know that had an RV-3 with "round head rivits" did not have a problem
selling it at all.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV 6A Wings and main landing gear on E-Bay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Hey Rich;
Your link does not work. I copied both lines into my brouser and got there.
Good luck with the sale.
Bud Silvers
I have wings... RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Zeidman, Richard
B
Subject: RV-List: RV 6A Wings and main landing gear on E-Bay
--> RV-List message posted by: "Zeidman, Richard B"
<richard.b.zeidman@boeing.com>
RV Listers,
Just a reminder that the wings, bulkhead and main landing gear from my
RV6A that was in a forced landing accident are on auction on E-bay and
the auction ends in about 24 hours. I believe that it would be a fairly
easy repair due to the pre-puched skins that were used in the original
construction.The reserve price of $500 has been met, but I think the
fuel tanks alone are worth that much. I've decided to rebuild with an
RV7 so not too much would fit. If you have any questions, I can be
reached at 610-591-8747 (W) or 610-358-1727.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=45601
88651&category=63679&sspagename=WDVW
Thanks for looking!
Rich Zeidman
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 7/8/05 8:55:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time, rhdudley@att.net
writes:
> After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> down with paper towels.
>
> I found a wide mouth plastic jar about 4 inches wide and about the
> same tall that sits neatly under the oil filter on the bottom ledge of
> the firewall cutout (if you have a CS prop control sticking in there you will
> have to modify this idea). I then use a long punch that I have sharpened to
> a fine point to punch a 1/8 hole in the top rear of the filter right at the
> point where it rolls over to the bottom of the can. Then rotate the filter
> 1/2 turn and punch a smaller hole at the same place. Stand back an watch the
> filter drain neatly into the jar. I usually let mine sit overnight just to
> eliminate any dripping when I unscrew the filter all the way.
I use an old paring knife that I keep sharp to cut the paper away from the
end plates.
Works OK but is still messy job.
Hope this helps,
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 106 hours
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 10 Jul 2005, at 14:17, Jerry Springer wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>>
>> But, pulled rivets aren't as strong as solid rivets (unless you use
>> the expensive CherryMax rivets, which have fatigue life issues). So,
>> either need to decrease the rivet pitch (which won't work if you have
>> a pre-punched kit), or up the size to 1/8 inch (if that gives
>> equivalent strength to 3/32 solid rivets).
>>
>> And this would only work if you knew that you would never want to
>> sell the aircraft. You would have a very hard time selling an RV
>> with a substantial number of pulled or round headed rivets.
>>
>> Kevin Horton
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> And you base that on what Kevin? BTW most of the aircraft that use
> pulled rivits do use 1/8"
> In the early 1970's I built an all metal aircraft called a Mini
> Coupe it
> used all steel cadium plated 1/8"
> pop rivets. I had an engine failure with the VW engine that was in it
> and ended up upside down in
> a field. Tore metal everywhere but not one rivet pulled loose. I
> rebuilt
> it and it was still flying up
> to about 5 years ago when the current owner made a hard landng with
> it.
> I know that the person
> I know that had an RV-3 with "round head rivits" did not have a
> problem
> selling it at all.
>
> Jerry
Jerry,
Bill Marvel did some interesting testing on the strength of joints
riveted with AN426 and AN470 rivets. His data showed that the joints
riveted with the AN470 round head rivets were only about 82% as
strong as joints riveted with AN426 flush head rivets. I archived
his description of the test and the results at:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/marvelrivets.html
The following reference suggests that the strength of blind rivets vs
solid rivets depends significantly on where the mandrel breaks (and
by inference, whether the mandrel is locked in place).
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Rivets.html
If the mandrel is designed to go all the way through the rivet, and
be retained in place (like the expensive high-strength rivets from
Cherry), then you may achieve a higher strength than with solid
rivets. If the mandrel doesn not plug the hole, or if it is not
locked in place, then the blind riveted joint would be weaker. So,
if you use high-strength Cherry rivets, you may end up with a
stronger structure. But, no one would use the expensive Cherry
rivets everywhere, due to cost. And, there have been problems with
poor fatigue life on some high strength Cherry rivets. I recall a
helicopter crash many years ago that was attributed to a repair that
failed due to poor fatigue life of Cherry rivets.
If the aircraft was designed for blind rivets, then I have no
concerns. But, if you just substitute blind rivets you now have a
very different structure than the designer assumed. You have no idea
what loads the structure can support. The designers calculated
strength, static load tests and service history are no longer
relevant. You would have an aircraft that looked like an RV, but no
one would know what loads the structure could support. I would
expect that knowledgeable buyers would rather have an aircraft that
was built the way Van intended.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
FWIW, I seem to recall that Cessna either tested or calculated the effect of using
flush rivets on one of their planes (a recip engine, can't remember model)
and found a 5 - 6 knot improvement. Might make more difference on a faster plane
like an RV.
Tracy Crook (Blasphemous rotary engine installer, more than 5 kn faster : )
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Thanks to all who replied. I like and will try several of the suggestions.
Best regards,
Richard Dudley
oliver h washburn wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "oliver h washburn" <ollie6a@earthlink.net>
>
>Also if you don't have a lot of room do every you said except use a doggie
>bag or zip lock over the filter and let the oil drain into that.Works for
>me.
> Ollie Washburn Central FL.
>
>
>
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Date: 7/8/2005 1:08:58 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Spin-on oil filters
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>>
>>Haven't seen this suggestion yet: For the horiaontl flters, take a nail
>>and punch a hole in the 'top' of the can near the bottom. Place milk
>>bottle/cut oil bottle/jar etc. underneath the filter to catch the oil
>>from the hole you just punched. Unscrew the filter 1/2 turn and punch
>>another hole in the 'top'. This will take care of most of the oil
>>captured in the filter and let it drain into the engine or your catch
>>can. Placing a baggie over the filter when you get ready to remove it
>>helps too.
>>Linn
>>
>>
>>Alex Peterson wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>>>
>>>
><alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>>>>
>>>>Hi Listers,
>>>>
>>>>After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
>>>>to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
>>>>have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
>>>
>>>
>>>>so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
>>>>down with paper towels.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to
>>>
>>>
>be
>
>
>>>the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
>>>forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
>>>punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I
>>>
>>>
>drain
>
>
>>>the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
>>>back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes
>>>
>>>
>it a
>
>
>>>LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in
>>>
>>>
>the
>
>
>>>milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a
>>>
>>>
>basting
>
>
>>>bulb.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
>>>>filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
>>>>tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
>>>>semi satisfactory.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>Single edge razor blades.
>>>
>>>Alex Peterson
>>>RV6A N66AP 635 hours
>>>Maple Grove, MN
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I saw one at sun n fun a few years ago.
do not archive
shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blasphemy or what?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
>
> Chuck,
> It can be done but you would certainly see a loss of cruise speed. RVs
> have 20,000 rivets and a lot of those hold the skin on. Even a tiny bit
> of drag will amount so something when you multiply it by a number that
> large.
>
> The most objectionable thing to me is driving round head rivets. Sure,
> dimpling takes time but flush head rivets are sooo asy to drive. 1/8
> inch universal rivets are OK to drive but the 3/32 are awful.
>
> While we're talking about alternate construction methods, what about
> assembling an RV with blind rivets as those Zenith builders are doing? I
> bet that one is in the archives.
> Do not archive
> Mark
>
> Chuck wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
>>
>>I know some will say this question is sacrilegious, but ... Has anyone
>>used round head rivets to build an RV or are there any estimates on
>>drag/lost performance with round verses flush rivets?
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: lubricating rod end bearings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
Hi Andy,
I lubricate the rod end bearings annually, using one of the motorcycle chain
lubes, as the lube comes out very thin and gets into the bearing before
setting up as a semi solid. The is a range of this stuff, using teflon or
moly-disulphide (?) available from bike shops. One I use is Maxima Chain
Wax. In areas where dust is likely to be more of an issue, I use a
teflon-based spray lube so that dust doesn't adhere to the bearing and work
its way inside. I lube the external aileron and flap bearings every few
months this way.
FWIW..
Martin in Oz
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
Just to play a little Devil's advocate. Remember that all the skins
on this bird carry some load. Consider the plate that you use for
the recess as a doubler. It needs to carry the load of all the metal
that you remove for the access cover. I'd go with a thicker piece of
metal, maybe 0.040 or even 0.062 as the recess plate. And don't
spare the rivets and screws.
Just some thoughts I'm not trying to stir anything up.
Phil
On Jul 7, 2005, at 15:44, Stan Jones wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
>
> On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the
> four
> module I need to install
> under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
> I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over
> the 7108A
> centre rib, between
> the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
> I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and
> nutplates, and add
> a bit of RTV to
> keep the weather out.
> Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A
> picture can
> replace
> a thousand words.
> Stan Jones.
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Blasphemy or what? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
Walter, You can find a few more good laughs that I've posted over the last few
years (different email addresses, but still "Chuck"; prior to that I was just
a lurker). I've built/re-built my share of RV-4's and last weekend drove up
to Monroe, Wa., picked-up another RV-4 kit, and drove it home. This kit was started
in 1988, but only the tail feathers are complete (less the glass work).
It took me a little over 2 years to build my first RV-4, I was in a rush to
fly. This kit I'm gonna take at an easy pace.
I've had the pleasure of helping other folks with their RV's and re-built 2 Sonerais.
I like Sonerais a lot, but after getting to fly a Rocket... I wanted
one. I'm a family guy with a modest job so the best I could do was the RV-4.
I've modified my RV-4 with 80% span ailerons (first I made 'em 100% great
roll-rate, but I had a helluva time seein' my short/narrow dirt strip on final
so I went 80% with air-brakes and that did the trick), VG's, and inverted fuel/oil
(Ly-Con IO-320 160 hp) 'cuz I like aerobatics a lot (I won first-place in
the Basic division at IAC's Delano Contest a couple of years ago in my RV-4
that's when I started tweekin' on my 4).
I've seen your website, nice work. Don't worry this won't get archived 'cuz it's
attached to yours that states DNA.
Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu
On 07/09 5:33, Chuck wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chuck
>
> I know some will say this question is sacrilegious, but ... Has anyone used round
head rivets to build an RV or are there any estimates on drag/lost performance
with round verses flush rivets?
Since you did not include "do not archive" in your post,
this question will forever be linked solidly to your name.
Over the years, I'm sure it will garner many a good laugh.
DO NOT ARCHIVE :)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
RV gang....
If you are going to Oshkosh, you may want to consider a stop at our
little small town airport.
3LF http://www.litchfieldil.com/airport/
take a look at the photography, the young eagle links, the pilot info
and then.......... stop over here for a night.
Gas is guaranteed at $2.85 a gallon (self service, like at the car gas
stations). We have a courtesy car ( old chevy, not pretty. but runs
good) No, the gas price is not very good, but it is the best we can do
and it will be this price on return trip also. We are about 340 or 350
miles straight south of Oshkosh..
On field camping, and motels within 1 mile walk. restarants, bars, Free
overnighting and Admin. bulding will be
Kept open for rest rooms and what ever. Sleep in there if you want......
Pass this information around to the other Matronics lists if you dont mind.
Bring your tie downs and ropes that you will need in Oshkosh just in
case we would have more than eight planes here. There is plenty of grass
for yie downs.......
Also Chapter 61, Acro contest will be going on that weekend at Salem
Illinois.(about 45 miles southeast) Feel free to stop in there for some
great competition and partying....
Phil RV6 flown and tore down now for painting............
Sure wish I had a Pitt's to Fly..........
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