---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 07/12/05: 26 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:38 AM - Re: Glueing windscreen. (PSILeD@aol.com) 2. 06:03 AM - narco nav122 for sale (KIMSEYCO@aol.com) 3. 06:30 AM - Re: Glueing windscreen. (Mickey Coggins) 4. 07:03 AM - Re: Glueing windscreen. (James H Nelson) 5. 07:58 AM - Re: Glueing windscreen. (Mickey Coggins) 6. 08:08 AM - lubricating rod end bearings (Glen Matejcek) 7. 08:27 AM - Re: Glueing windscreen. (Richard Tasker) 8. 08:44 AM - Re: Glueing windscreen. (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 9. 08:56 AM - Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC (linn walters) 10. 09:09 AM - Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC (Rob Prior (rv7)) 11. 10:06 AM - Re: Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed & riveted in (Jeff Dowling) 12. 11:44 AM - Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC (JOHN STARN) 13. 12:57 PM - Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC (Konrad L. Werner) 14. 01:28 PM - Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC (Kevin Horton) 15. 02:03 PM - Carb Heat (bertrv6@highstream.net) 16. 02:23 PM - Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC (JOHN STARN) 17. 02:23 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Doug Weiler) 18. 02:36 PM - Re: Carb Heat (c.ennis) 19. 02:42 PM - Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC (JOHN STARN) 20. 03:30 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (John Danielson) 21. 04:00 PM - Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once (Richard Tasker) 22. 04:13 PM - Re: Carb Heat (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 23. 05:46 PM - Re: lubricating rod end bearingsQC (linn walters) 24. 06:32 PM - Re: Carb Heat (GMC) 25. 10:26 PM - Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Re: Arlington Fly-In 2005 awards.... (JOHN STARN) 26. 11:31 PM - Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation (Greg Grigson) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:38:51 AM PST US From: PSILeD@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing windscreen. --> RV-List message posted by: PSILeD@aol.com Hi Mickey, Could you tell me how much material it takes to glue on the canopy? I am seriously considering this for my RV-8. I really enjoy your site. Paul Peachtree Cit, Ga. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:03:35 AM PST US From: KIMSEYCO@aol.com Subject: RV-List: narco nav122 for sale --> RV-List message posted by: KIMSEYCO@aol.com if their is anyone who is looking for a vor-ils-marker becon reciver just back from repair at narco let me know before i put it on e-bay. value $2000 plus. tom kimsey kimseyco@aol.com ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:30:16 AM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing windscreen. --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi Paul, Thanks! I used two tubes for the canopy, but I really used at least double what I should have. If I did another canopy, I could easily do it with only one tube. That said, the glue is not very expensive, so it's best to buy a bit more than you think you will need. I'm getting close to installing the skirts. I'll use a combination of rivets and glue here, but probably scotchweld DB-125, since there will not be a big gap between the skirt and the canopy. The Sikaflex requires a decent gap. Best regards, Mickey PSILeD@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: PSILeD@aol.com > > Hi Mickey, > > Could you tell me how much material it takes to glue on the canopy? I am > seriously considering this for my RV-8. I really enjoy your site. > Paul > Peachtree Cit, Ga. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:03:25 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing windscreen. From: James H Nelson --> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson Dean, I'm told that it is a marine product so I would go in that direction. I want to glue my canopy on also. A vendor for this product would be great. I wonder if it has a "do not use after" date. Jim Nelson ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:58:52 AM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing windscreen. --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins > I'm told that it is a marine product so I would go in that > direction. I want to glue my canopy on also. A vendor for this product > would be great. I wonder if it has a "do not use after" date. Yes, it does. If I recall correctly, it was about 6 months after I purchased it. I can check to get more details if you like. You can buy it here: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/ -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:08:21 AM PST US From: Glen Matejcek Subject: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearings --> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek Hi Linn- >Why not use graphite??? Unfortunately, it eats aluminum..... be carefull where it drip / splatters gm Glen Matejcek ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:27:23 AM PST US From: Richard Tasker Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing windscreen. --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker I am not sure exactly how much it takes in total, but I have used one tube to glue the main canopy (slider) to the framework. I need to add a little to it to smooth out the fillets and glue it to the side sections. Also have to do the entire windshield. I would estimate three tubes (I bought four tubes). Actually, the sealer is not the stuff that is expensive anyway. The cleaner and primer is what is expensive. Dick Tasker PSILeD@aol.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: PSILeD@aol.com > >Hi Mickey, > >Could you tell me how much material it takes to glue on the canopy? I am >seriously considering this for my RV-8. I really enjoy your site. >Paul >Peachtree Cit, Ga. > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:44:20 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Glueing windscreen. From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" Paul I assume your ? was directed at me. You removed the reply detail. 1 Tube of glue, one cleaner, and one primer. You will have enough primer and cleaner for a dozen planes. 1 Tube of glue will do one plane. Got mine from Jamestown like the other replies have indicated. Mike Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of PSILeD@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing windscreen. --> RV-List message posted by: PSILeD@aol.com Hi Mickey, Could you tell me how much material it takes to glue on the canopy? I am seriously considering this for my RV-8. I really enjoy your site. Paul Peachtree Cit, Ga. ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:56:03 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters Glen, you're right. I recall an incident where a QC person used a pencil to circle a small dent on a Cessna. Years later the 'circle' fell out when bumped. Thanks for the reminder!!! Linn do not archive Glen Matejcek wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek > >Hi Linn- > > > > >>Why not use graphite??? >> >> > >Unfortunately, it eats aluminum..... be carefull where it drip / splatters > >gm > >Glen Matejcek > > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:09:28 AM PST US From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" On 8:58:22 2005-07-12 linn walters wrote: > Glen, you're right. I recall an incident where a QC person used a > pencil to circle a small dent on a Cessna. Years later the 'circle' > fell out when bumped. Thanks for the reminder!!! Well, it *did* get rid of the dent... :P Do Not Archive -Rob ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:06:02 AM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed & riveted in --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" I just drilled out the rivets and gave the glass a good pull. Its hard to get a great bond so the glass came off pretty easily in most spots. I filled the holes with resin. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 200 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Suffoletto" Subject: RV-List: Removing cowl hinges after they have been glassed & riveted in > --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Suffoletto" > > > > If one wanted to do away with the top and bottom cowl hinges and switch to > screws / camlocs what would be the best way to remove the hinge from the > cowl? Do you just cut off the eyes on the cowl side and drill through the > hinge body or is there a way to remove the hinges after they have been > glassed in? Seems that a lot of damage could be done to the cowl trying to > get the hinges off after they have been glassed and riveted. > > I have read where other have switched to screws and camlocs. i'd be > interested to know how they dealt with the hinge on the cowl. > > Thanks > > Richard > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:44:40 AM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" This thread begs the question. What then do we use to mark rivets lines, rivet & nut plate locations, cut off points if not a pencil ? OH......that's right the newbies have all those pre-punched holes to guide them but there still must be a few things that must be measured and "marked". 8*) Cleaveland Aircraft Tool's sell and includes "Sharpie" fine point permanent markers in their RV packages. This sounds a lot like a good ole "urban legend". KABONG HRII N561FS (GBA & GWB) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" > > On 8:58:22 2005-07-12 linn walters wrote: >> Glen, you're right. I recall an incident where a QC person used a >> pencil to circle a small dent on a Cessna. Years later the 'circle' >> fell out when bumped. Thanks for the reminder!!! > > Well, it *did* get rid of the dent... :P > > Do Not Archive > -Rob > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:57:13 PM PST US From: "Konrad L. Werner" Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC --> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" Old fashioned Pencil (solid) vs. modern Sharpie fine point (liquid)? What is your point (no pun intended)? Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN STARN To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 12:43 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" This thread begs the question. What then do we use to mark rivets lines, rivet & nut plate locations, cut off points if not a pencil ? OH......that's right the newbies have all those pre-punched holes to guide them but there still must be a few things that must be measured and "marked". 8*) Cleaveland Aircraft Tool's sell and includes "Sharpie" fine point permanent markers in their RV packages. This sounds a lot like a good ole "urban legend". KABONG HRII N561FS (GBA & GWB) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" To: Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" > > On 8:58:22 2005-07-12 linn walters wrote: >> Glen, you're right. I recall an incident where a QC person used a >> pencil to circle a small dent on a Cessna. Years later the 'circle' >> fell out when bumped. Thanks for the reminder!!! > > Well, it *did* get rid of the dent... :P > > Do Not Archive > -Rob > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:28:04 PM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton The story of the circled dent eventually becoming a hole is a bit far- fetched, but there is some science behind corrosion concerns if you get graphite on aluminum, and there is some moisture present. If two different materials are in contact, and there is an electrolyte (electrically conductive liquid) they create what is effectively a tiny battery, and the current flowing can cause corrosion. The voltage of the "battery", and the potential for corrosion, is determined by how far apart the two materials are in the "galvanic series". If you look at tables showing the galvanic series, you will find aluminum near one end, and graphite near the other. In this case it is the aluminum that will corrode. General info: http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/CPS/cps_a_glc.htm http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Aircraft/galvdefi.htm Galvanic series: http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/Charts/galvanic-series.html http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/galv_series.htm Kevin Horton On 12 Jul 2005, at 14:43, JOHN STARN wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" > > This thread begs the question. What then do we use to mark rivets > lines, > rivet & nut plate locations, cut off points if not a pencil ? > OH......that's right the newbies have all those pre-punched holes > to guide > them but there still must be a few things that must be measured and > "marked". 8*) Cleaveland Aircraft Tool's sell and includes > "Sharpie" fine > point permanent markers in their RV packages. This sounds a lot > like a good > ole "urban legend". KABONG HRII N561FS (GBA & GWB) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" >> >> On 8:58:22 2005-07-12 linn walters wrote: >> >>> Glen, you're right. I recall an incident where a QC person used a >>> pencil to circle a small dent on a Cessna. Years later the 'circle' >>> fell out when bumped. Thanks for the reminder!!! >>> >> >> Well, it *did* get rid of the dent... :P >> >> -Rob >> ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:03:54 PM PST US From: bertrv6@highstream.net Subject: RV-List: Carb Heat --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net Hi: I have been trying to get some feed-back from you experts, about the amount of heat, on the rv6a.. I cannot see any drop on RPM. on the Enigne monitor I have, is a GRAND RAPID E.I.S. UNIT. ANY COMMENTS,,, DO WE HAVE ANOUGH HEAT, IF WE EVER NEED IT/ THANKS BERT RV6A DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:23:28 PM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" Point is: Graphite vs Ink ??.. Pencil (graphite) vs Sharpie Ink ( carbon based [graphite & clay] ). Not being a pen/pencil chemist I was wondering if the Sharpie Ink would/could do the same damage as the ole #2 pencil. The ink does seem to last longer (& bleed thru primer and paint). We have used both the pen and the pencil but cleaned both off prior to painting. Not sure of we left any on under the enclosed primed areas. KABONG (GBA & GWB) Do Not Archive 8 ) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Konrad L. Werner" Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC > --> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" > > Old fashioned Pencil (solid) vs. modern Sharpie fine point (liquid)? > What is your point (no pun intended)? > > Do not archive > ----- Original Message ----- > From: JOHN STARN > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 12:43 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" > > This thread begs the question. What then do we use to mark rivets lines, > rivet & nut plate locations, cut off points if not a pencil ? > OH......that's right the newbies have all those pre-punched holes to > guide > them but there still must be a few things that must be measured and > "marked". 8*) Cleaveland Aircraft Tool's sell and includes "Sharpie" > fine > point permanent markers in their RV packages. This sounds a lot like a > good > ole "urban legend". KABONG HRII N561FS (GBA & GWB) > > On 8:58:22 2005-07-12 linn walters wrote: > >> Glen, you're right. I recall an incident where a QC person used a > >> pencil to circle a small dent on a Cessna. Years later the 'circle' > >> fell out when bumped. Thanks for the reminder!!! ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 02:23:53 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once From: Doug Weiler --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler Hi guys: As much as I hate to enter into the priming, fray I have to insert my two cents worth. Make it easy on yourself. The MN Wing has used this method on probably a dozen airplanes and it is simple and bullet proof. 1. Clean bare aluminum with Dupont 3812S reducer. 2. ScotchBrite with the purple Scothbrite pads 3. Clean again with Dupont 3812S. 4. Spray with NAPA 7220 self-etching primer in spray cans. Get it at any NAPA store. 5. It dries in 3 minutes. You are done. After about a week this primer gets very hard. I have top coated it with PPG acrylic urethane, Imron, and Aluma Grip and have done pull tests. It is great. Unless you are planning to base your airplane in Hawaii with it being drizzled on by salt air, this works great! Doug Weiler Pres, MN Wing On 7/12/05 12:27 AM, "Don Hall" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Don Hall" > > I did my tail in 3 primer sessions, weeks apart as stuff ready for final > riveting piled up on the shelves. Along the way, I considered the > do-it-all-at-once approach. One knock on that approach is for those who do > the full alumaprep-scrub-alodine-prime cycle - that's a lot of freaking > scrubbing! As we say down south, you will be slap-wo-out. I can guarantee > you that by the end of that day, you'll be wondering if smaller batches is > better. Another advantage for mere mortals with smaller batches is that it > is easier to unravel mysteries in forgetting to re-label part numbers. > Don't ask me how I know... > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once > > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht > > I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting AFS > primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been thinking about > various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction is that some parts > can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would welcome any ideas from > those that have done this. I have plenty of space. > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 02:36:01 PM PST US From: "c.ennis" Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Heat --> RV-List message posted by: "c.ennis" My 6A has a tach fromVan's instrument line, 21/4" electric. Carb heat drop at 1700 rpm is only 25 to 50 rpm. using Van's catalog componants. Charlie Ennis ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 02:42:33 PM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" Being an old plumber type I've had lots of experience in dis-similar metals being installed by "others". Copper & galvanized pipe mixed only take a few months to show up and a few years to fail. The amount of graphite in a pencil line covered then with paint/primer does not sound like a great danger. Thanks Kevin, will read up more on the subject. Ya'll haven't been by APV in a while, we still got a "warm" one for ya. JACK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Horton" Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > > The story of the circled dent eventually becoming a hole is a bit far- > fetched, but there is some science behind corrosion concerns if you > get graphite on aluminum, and there is some moisture present. > > If two different materials are in contact, and there is an > electrolyte (electrically conductive liquid) they create what is > effectively a tiny battery, and the current flowing can cause > corrosion. The voltage of the "battery", and the potential for > corrosion, is determined by how far apart the two materials are in > the "galvanic series". If you look at tables showing the galvanic > series, you will find aluminum near one end, and graphite near the > other. In this case it is the aluminum that will corrode. > > General info: > http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/CPS/cps_a_glc.htm > http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Aircraft/galvdefi.htm > > Galvanic series: > http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/Charts/galvanic-series.html > http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/galv_series.htm > > Kevin Horton > > On 12 Jul 2005, at 14:43, JOHN STARN wrote: > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" >> >> This thread begs the question. What then do we use to mark rivets >> lines, >> rivet & nut plate locations, cut off points if not a pencil ? >> OH......that's right the newbies have all those pre-punched holes >> to guide >> them but there still must be a few things that must be measured and >> "marked". 8*) Cleaveland Aircraft Tool's sell and includes >> "Sharpie" fine >> point permanent markers in their RV packages. This sounds a lot >> like a good >> ole "urban legend". KABONG HRII N561FS (GBA & GWB) >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" >> To: >> Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC >> ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:30:23 PM PST US From: "John Danielson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" I agree with Doug, I used Naptha with scotchbrite pad to clean before spraying. Then I used Marhyde self etching primer in the large spray cans. These are expensive. I will probably use the NAPA 7220 primer as Doug suggested on my Harmon Rocket. John L. Danielson -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Weiler Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler Hi guys: As much as I hate to enter into the priming, fray I have to insert my two cents worth. Make it easy on yourself. The MN Wing has used this method on probably a dozen airplanes and it is simple and bullet proof. 1. Clean bare aluminum with Dupont 3812S reducer. 2. ScotchBrite with the purple Scothbrite pads 3. Clean again with Dupont 3812S. 4. Spray with NAPA 7220 self-etching primer in spray cans. Get it at any NAPA store. 5. It dries in 3 minutes. You are done. After about a week this primer gets very hard. I have top coated it with PPG acrylic urethane, Imron, and Aluma Grip and have done pull tests. It is great. Unless you are planning to base your airplane in Hawaii with it being drizzled on by salt air, this works great! Doug Weiler Pres, MN Wing On 7/12/05 12:27 AM, "Don Hall" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Don Hall" > > I did my tail in 3 primer sessions, weeks apart as stuff ready for final > riveting piled up on the shelves. Along the way, I considered the > do-it-all-at-once approach. One knock on that approach is for those who do > the full alumaprep-scrub-alodine-prime cycle - that's a lot of freaking > scrubbing! As we say down south, you will be slap-wo-out. I can guarantee > you that by the end of that day, you'll be wondering if smaller batches is > better. Another advantage for mere mortals with smaller batches is that it > is easier to unravel mysteries in forgetting to re-label part numbers. > Don't ask me how I know... > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once > > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht > > I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting AFS > primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been thinking about > various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction is that some parts > can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would welcome any ideas from > those that have done this. I have plenty of space. > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 04:00:20 PM PST US From: Richard Tasker Subject: Re: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker I don't disagree with your method as far as ease and durability. However, for those who would rather use more environmentally friendly stuff, the AFS products are that. And they are not hard to use. Dick Doug Weiler wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler > >Hi guys: > >As much as I hate to enter into the priming, fray I have to insert my two >cents worth. > >Make it easy on yourself. The MN Wing has used this method on probably a >dozen airplanes and it is simple and bullet proof. > >1. Clean bare aluminum with Dupont 3812S reducer. >2. ScotchBrite with the purple Scothbrite pads >3. Clean again with Dupont 3812S. >4. Spray with NAPA 7220 self-etching primer in spray cans. Get it at any >NAPA store. >5. It dries in 3 minutes. You are done. > >After about a week this primer gets very hard. I have top coated it with >PPG acrylic urethane, Imron, and Aluma Grip and have done pull tests. It is >great. Unless you are planning to base your airplane in Hawaii with it >being drizzled on by salt air, this works great! > >Doug Weiler >Pres, MN Wing > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 04:13:55 PM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Heat --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 07/12/2005 3:05:10 PM Central Standard Time, bertrv6@highstream.net writes: I cannot see any drop on RPM. on the Enigne monitor I have, is a GRAND RAPID E.I.S. UNIT. > Hi Bert- On the EIS in my -6A with 150hp Lyc & Vans airbox, I'll pull carb heat at runup and will typically see at least 20-30 degree drop after 5 or 6 seconds, then open it back up. Is your door fully closing in both directions? What carb heat muff are you using? Mark Phillips ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 05:46:30 PM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters JOHN STARN wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" > >This thread begs the question. What then do we use to mark rivets lines, >rivet & nut plate locations, cut off points if not a pencil ? >OH......that's right the newbies have all those pre-punched holes to guide >them but there still must be a few things that must be measured and >"marked". 8*) Cleaveland Aircraft Tool's sell and includes "Sharpie" fine >point permanent markers in their RV packages. This sounds a lot like a good >ole "urban legend". KABONG HRII N561FS (GBA & GWB) > No, it's true. The pencil mark did etch the aluminum. Saw the pictures. The Sharpie's work absolutely great on aluminum and a little acetone or MEK gets rid of your mistakes so you can try again. I use the ultra-fine Sharpies .... in colors sometimes so I don't get measurements confused. Plus, pencil marks on aluminum 'fade' and are hard to see after a while. Buy a box of sharpies (the ultra fine make a really small (.05MM?) line when they're new. And you can't beat the colors. Oh yeah, don't try and paint over a Sharpie line ... it'll bleed through. Guess how I know! Linn Linn > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: lubricating rod end bearingsQC > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" >> >>On 8:58:22 2005-07-12 linn walters wrote: >> >> >>>Glen, you're right. I recall an incident where a QC person used a >>>pencil to circle a small dent on a Cessna. Years later the 'circle' >>>fell out when bumped. Thanks for the reminder!!! >>> >>> >>Well, it *did* get rid of the dent... :P >> >>Do Not Archive >>-Rob >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 06:32:12 PM PST US From: GMC Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb Heat --> RV-List message posted by: GMC Hi Bert My (old) FAR Part 23.1105 regs state that when the air is going through a screen (filter) the available preheat must be at least 100 deg F. I don't think the Vans setup is adequate but it is not required to meet these rules. See my submission to the RV photo share archives Aug 2003 for picture of a heat muff that wraps around both crossover pipes and gives about 25 deg F additional heat as measured in carb throat. This simple heat muff can be made for about $15 and is standing up well after 300 hrs. Scat tube size was increased to 2 1/2 inches. I believe a lot of heat is lost to the air filter. One question in my mind is if the typical 30 RPM drop people see when selecting carb heat is from the increased air temperature or from the engine being choked trying to breathe through the 2" scat tube. George in Langley BC. bertrv6@highstream.net wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net > > >Hi: > > I have been trying to get some feed-back from you experts, about >the amount of heat, on the rv6a.. > > > I cannot see any drop on RPM. on the Enigne monitor I have, is >a GRAND RAPID E.I.S. UNIT. > > > ANY COMMENTS,,, DO WE HAVE ANOUGH HEAT, IF WE EVER NEED IT/ > > >THANKS > >BERT > >RV6A > > >DO NOT ARCHIVE > > > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 10:26:04 PM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: RV-List: Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Re: Arlington Fly-In 2005 awards.... --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" Was in Washington to help my son & his family move up there. Went to the EAA N/W fly-in with "Awesome" (SoCal RV handle) and grandson on Thurs. Weather was great, lots of RV's as expected. The blown engine on the E300, the hung right gear on the AT-6 and the HIGH inverted spin "over" the crowd by the gal in the Pitts all in the first three acts will be remembered. Allen Mecum, (long story why not Starn) is looking for EAA Chapter in the Everett area. He'll be on-line as soon as he gets all his stuff put away. Sorry I didn't connect with those who went. If ya'll didn't see the airshow on Thurs you can't say "didn't miss a thing" but if ya did, it was great. Oh, yea the Fish & Chips at the north end of the vendors area was to die for. KABONG 8*) HRII N561FS Do Not Archive ----- Original Message ----- From: mark To: SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 9:31 PM Subject: [SoCAL-RVlist] Re: Arlington Fly-In 2005 awards.... you feel any better now about the "didn't miss a thing" fly-in? N/W EAA regional award winner? :) a.. Visit your group "SoCAL-RVlist" on the web. b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: SoCAL-RVlist-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 11:31:25 PM PST US From: Greg Grigson Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson So... any suggestions on good adhesives or attachment methods for the black foam soundproofing. What are your thoughts on 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive aka "Camel Snot"? Greg in Honolulu --- Kyle Boatright wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Karen and Robert Brown" > > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal > insuluation > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert > Brown" > > > > > > Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755) > in their catalog that > > discusses the details of insulating an aircraft, > giving several options. > > I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used > the sandwich technique > > described in the book and made templates to fit > each area of skin in the > > airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum > foil/foam, put together with > > spray on contact cement. I will have about 2" of > this material (3 or 4 > > sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere > else. I put it on all > > metal surfaces that are not occupied with > something else, including > > subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and > areas in the tail. Total > > weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used > the 1/4" "Super > > Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720). > That makes one > > "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the > foil is put in. I've > > sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum to > attach these. You can > > still rip em out if you want to, but they are > attached more pe! > > rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying > yet, but there is an > > incredible difference just being inside it and > working...it's like a sound > > studio. > > > > Bob Brown > > RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine > > Bob, > > You may want to investigate some other attachment > method than spray on > contact adhesive. My experience is that it does not > hold up well against > the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the > insulation on my RV-6 firewall > a couple of times over the course of 300 and > something flight hours. > Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching > insulation ranks about a 10 > on the misery index... > > KB > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > > > >