Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Re: cutting out wheel pants (Sportypilot)
2. 12:19 AM - Re: Carb Heat (GMC)
3. 02:08 AM - Re: Dragging Brakes (Jeff Point)
4. 04:18 AM - Re: Fastback RV8 (alan@reichertech.com)
5. 05:04 AM - Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? (Ed Anderson)
6. 05:52 AM - Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
7. 07:37 AM - Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 (Hull, Don)
8. 07:37 AM - Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? (Hull, Don)
9. 08:13 AM - Re: acoustical and thermal insuluation (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
10. 10:14 AM - List Digest Truncation Fixed!! (Matt Dralle)
11. 11:17 AM - Piper pitot static (Ron Burden)
12. 11:55 AM - Re: Piper pitot static (RV6 Flyer)
13. 12:13 PM - Re: Piper pitot static (Stein Bruch)
14. 12:13 PM - Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 (sportav8r@aol.com)
15. 01:02 PM - Re: Piper pitot static (Kevin Horton)
16. 01:24 PM - Glare shield (Glen Matejcek)
17. 01:48 PM - Fun Sun Airshow DVD (Jon Croke)
18. 02:36 PM - Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? (Ed Anderson)
19. 02:40 PM - Re: Piper pitot static (James Freeman)
20. 03:39 PM - acoustical & thermal insulation (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
21. 04:10 PM - Narco 122D mounting? (Kevin Horton)
22. 04:25 PM - Re: Narco 122D mounting? (Kevin Horton)
23. 04:33 PM - Re: Piper pitot static (Denis Walsh)
24. 06:25 PM - Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
25. 06:49 PM - Re: EGT/ CHT Gauges (Alex Peterson)
26. 09:26 PM - Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
27. 11:14 PM - Ellison TBI Troubles (Greg Grigson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: cutting out wheel pants |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
No I am not as close as it may seem, I have not completed the engine.. still
waiting on parts from ECI , had the crank and rods checked.. and ordered the
gasket set.. cylenders are done , case is awesome, not so sure about the oil
pan working on not on the A version but its going to be close.. its an
older 0320 I found very cheap and wanted to use it since its very very cost
affective.. just wanted to get the wheel pants done while waiting..
can't do the cowling till I have the motor.. everything else is done.. some
small amount of wiring.. just set it up on the gear since I am short and
needed
all the advantage to do the slider and fiberglass work. up there.. tail is
mounted , emp fairing done.. (needs a little more sanding.) soon as I get
the motor isntalled and cowling fit.. its off to my custom made paint
booth.. :) I would like to get the pants done right the 1st time.. and the
alignment would be
helpful to do it right hanging in the air before it gets down.. on the
gear.. thanks for all the help
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Danny.. rv9a #90719 june 13th was a year..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: cutting out wheel pants
> --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
>
> Danny,
> Just got my wheelpants done two weeks ago in my 6A. I
> cut a slot, starting out about with of the gear leg
> bottom diameter, then worked my way up to provide at
> least 1/4" of clearance. One is right "on" the other
> is a liitle off. How much? Who knows, you cover it
> all in fiberglass and hardly ever see it again.
>
> Man, if your workin on "the" pants you're really
> close! I found that, as others have previously
> voiced, fiberglass is not too difficult to learn.
> Especially if you have some Lancair buddies. Just a
> bit tedious. I will have a body man fix all my lumpy
> surfaces prior to painting, I've found I don't have
> the eye or the patience for the super smooth, flowing
> look. There's a good link somewhere I'm sure you have
> on materials and layups..
>
> BTW I used my wife's ceramic potters clay (water
> based) with good results. Couldn't find oil-based in
> the islands mon.
>
> Aloha.
> Greg
>
> --- Sportypilot <sportypilot@stx.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot"
>> <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
>>
>> I got the gear on and have been trying to figure out
>> how not to make a
>> mistake on cutting out the rear portion of
>> the wheel pant to get it over the tire so i can mark
>> the cut out for the
>> gear leg.. what did you guys start with on the
>> size hole or end with so I can cut it once and the
>> fit the side for the
>> leg.. then I can find where to drill the holes for
>> the attach brackets.. I have the leg fairings cut
>> out and clamped at the top
>> but the next step to get the wheel pants on
>> so I can start with the clay.. any help email or
>> otherwise.. would be
>> awesome..
>>
>>
>> thnks in advance..
>>
>> Danny..
>>
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi John
IMHO this is not a pressurized system so there will be little if any
airflow through the carb heat system when carb heat is cold, therefore
no need to dissipate any hot air.
George in Langley BC
John Danielson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343@bresnan.net>
>
>Tim,
>You don't want to block the opening off. This is how the hot air
>dissipates when the carb heat is off. With the carb heat off, where is
>all that hot air going to go. Its going to get really hot on top of the
>intake plenum.
>
>John L. Danielson
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>
>This is getting my attention now. I wondered why the standoff allowed
>unheated air in so I blocked most of the opening around the standoff.
>Do
>you think there would not be enough volume via the standard scat tube?
>Maybe I should remove my block offs.
>
>Tim
>RV-6
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>
>
>Hi Dale
>
>Yes you are right. I forgot about that raised standoff area that allows
>cooler bypass air in. On the advice of others I had eliminated the
>standoff for the scat tube flange when building and my aircraft has been
>breathing warm air only through the scat tube (now increased in size).
>Do you have any numbers on carb air temperature rise with your setup.
>
>George in Langley BC
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Dragging Brakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I put an extra spring around the outside of the plunger (3/8 ID IIRC)
with a washer top and bottom and it helps get the pedals back where they
belong. Also, you might check that the bend in the al tube around the
gear leg isn't putting any side load on the brakes. I had to tweak this
to get them to quit dragging.
Jeff Point
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fastback RV8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
> Time: 05:35:17 AM PST US
> Subject: RV-List: Fastback RV8
> From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
> <mstewart@iss.net>
>
> OK more poking around and I have run across more detail of the mod. How
> did I not know about this?
>
> Good grief!
>
> This really looks great.
>
> What is the matter with you people? Don't let these little gems of
> information get by without letting us know.
>
> You are all fired. I would have done this had I known about it.
>
>
> And he has a honker engine. 330hp! Wow.
>
> Maybe Ill just start over.
>
>
> Mike
>
> http://showplanes.com/index_800.htm
>
Well, here's another option I ran across a couple months ago. I know very
little about this one. However, it keeps the slider option. You have to
purchase a different bubble, though.
http://members.cox.net/rv8fastback/
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
James I used a strip of thick (1/4-3/8") molding (automotive) shaped sort
of like an "L". I place the "L" horizontal such that the "foot" of the "L"
was set back from the front of the opening edge and sticking up. I don't
have a part number - suggest checking some of the auto catalogs for sealing
strips and look at the diagrams of the different type. This is glued (3M)
to the metal strip that runs around the top of the instrument panel bulkhead
(at least on the 6A) and down the sides. Most of the water that runs off
the canopy gets "trapped" by the "foot" of the L and is diverted down the
sides of the instrument panel bulkhead. Also If a lot of water has
accumulated on the canopy, I first wipe if off with one of the very soft
silicon plastic water wipes (sometimes called "California Wipers") Also
opening the canopy slowly will help control the rate of run-off. Hope this
helps.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Subject: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"????
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
> For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep rain
> water from running into your avionics etc.?
>
> This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for this
> is
> when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
> shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
>
> The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy and
> all
> of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone meet
> you
> to remove the water first. :-)
>
> Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
> repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
>
> Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY appreciated. I
> am
> heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the next
> few
> days.
>
> Thanks,
>
> James
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
James,
I've built two RV-6A's with tip-ups, both had a Velcro'ed in tent-fly
material over the area behind
the instrument panel. By sandwiching the Velcro with a metal strip, you will
eliminate the eventual
breakdown of the Velcro backing glue. I used 2" wide Velcro all around the
airframe, 1" sewed into
the tent fly material....
Fred Stucklen
RV6A N926RV
435 hrs in under two years!
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <
<mailto:james@nextupventures.com> james@nextupventures.com>
For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
rain
water from running into your avionics etc.?
This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
this is
when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
and all
of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone
meet you
to remove the water first. :-)
Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
appreciated. I am
heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the
next few
days.
Thanks,
James
Message 7
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| Subject: | How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
Fred,
Do you have any photos of your installation?
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stucklen, Frederic
W UTPWR
Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR"
<Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
James,
I've built two RV-6A's with tip-ups, both had a Velcro'ed in tent-fly
material over the area behind the instrument panel. By sandwiching the
Velcro with a metal strip, you will eliminate the eventual breakdown of the
Velcro backing glue. I used 2" wide Velcro all around the airframe, 1" sewed
into the tent fly material....
Fred Stucklen
RV6A N926RV
435 hrs in under two years!
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <
<mailto:james@nextupventures.com> james@nextupventures.com>
For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
rain
water from running into your avionics etc.?
This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
this is
when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
and all
of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone
meet you
to remove the water first. :-)
Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
appreciated. I am
heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the
next few
days.
Thanks,
James
Message 8
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| Subject: | How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
Ed,
Do you have any photos of your L-shaped molding?
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
"Tip-Up"????
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
James I used a strip of thick (1/4-3/8") molding (automotive) shaped sort
of like an "L". I place the "L" horizontal such that the "foot" of the "L"
was set back from the front of the opening edge and sticking up. I don't
have a part number - suggest checking some of the auto catalogs for sealing
strips and look at the diagrams of the different type. This is glued (3M)
to the metal strip that runs around the top of the instrument panel bulkhead
(at least on the 6A) and down the sides. Most of the water that runs off
the canopy gets "trapped" by the "foot" of the L and is diverted down the
sides of the instrument panel bulkhead. Also If a lot of water has
accumulated on the canopy, I first wipe if off with one of the very soft
silicon plastic water wipes (sometimes called "California Wipers") Also
opening the canopy slowly will help control the rate of run-off. Hope this
helps.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Subject: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"????
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
> --> <james@nextupventures.com>
>
> For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
> rain water from running into your avionics etc.?
>
> This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
> this
> is
> when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
> shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
>
> The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
> and
> all
> of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone meet
> you
> to remove the water first. :-)
>
> Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
> repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
>
> Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
> appreciated. I
> am
> heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the next
> few
> days.
>
> Thanks,
>
> James
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thermal insuluation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 7/14/05 12:10:17 AM Central Daylight Time,
iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com writes:
> So with my -6A panel
> complete I didn't want a lot of aerosal glue flying
> around under there, especially with me in the
> too-familiar contorted pose!
>>>
3M Hi-Strength 90 is pretty tenacious stuff, and very little, if any,
overspray- it goes on kinda like spatter paint, just fine strings of material spewing
in a fairly tight pattern from the nozzle...
http://www.rochfordsupply.com/product_listing.asp_Q_CatID_E_406_A_SubCatID_E_425_A_ProdID_E_3068
About $14 Stateside from the local Lowes Depot...
Mark
Message 10
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| Subject: | List Digest Truncation Fixed!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
I finally figured out today what was causing the occasional
truncation of the daily List Digest emails. Seems that every once in
a while a message would contain a single "." (period) on line all by
itself. The mailers would see this and assume that this was the
universal emailer signal for "end of message", and consequently
wouldn't process any of the rest of the Digest message.
I've put in a filter today to remove any of these sequences so we
should be back in business on the Digests.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 11
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| Subject: | Piper pitot static |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Burden" <crb@commspeed.net>
HELP!!
I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need advice from
some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have checked the
archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical but the
static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
96392-006.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ron
CRB@commspeed.net
RV 7-A quickbuild
Message 12
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| Subject: | Piper pitot static |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Ron:
I put mine right where Van calls out. It work fine. Altitude is right on.
Airspeed reads a little low above 100 KIAS.
I do not know what the Piper part number is.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,694 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Ron Burden" <crb@commspeed.net>
Subject: RV-List: Piper pitot static
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Burden" <crb@commspeed.net>
HELP!!
I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need advice from
some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have checked the
archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical but the
static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
96392-006.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ron
CRB@commspeed.net
RV 7-A quickbuild
Message 13
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| Subject: | Piper pitot static |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I'd install that Piper part right into the tool box drawer and buy a
standard pitot tube, then install the static ports where they're known to
work.
Sorry for the sarcasm - but why re-invent the wheel? It' not like those
piper probes are more attractive, more streamlined, or otherwise superior?
Also, contrary to what you may have found, pitot location on these RV wings
is inedeed fairly important. No so much on the inboard/outboard measurement
from the fuse, but morever the vertical depth from the wing. Too close to
the bottom of the wing skin and you'll get erroneous data.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein.
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Burden
Subject: RV-List: Piper pitot static
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Burden" <crb@commspeed.net>
HELP!!
I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need advice from
some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have checked the
archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical but the
static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
96392-006.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ron
CRB@commspeed.net
RV 7-A quickbuild
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
I, too, would like to see Fred's set-up.
I lost a transponder once to water damage from a week outside in the rain. Now
my fix is a thick bead of clear RTV inside the lip, where others are using L-channel
weatherstripping, and to tape the forward canopy seam with black vinyl
electrical tape whenever I tie down outside overnight. Makes some litter, but
it keeps everything dry inside and it's cheap and easy.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR"
<Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
James,
I've built two RV-6A's with tip-ups, both had a Velcro'ed in tent-fly
material over the area behind
the instrument panel. By sandwiching the Velcro with a metal strip, you will
eliminate the eventual
breakdown of the Velcro backing glue. I used 2" wide Velcro all around the
airframe, 1" sewed into
the tent fly material....
Fred Stucklen
RV6A N926RV
435 hrs in under two years!
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <
<mailto:james@nextupventures.com> james@nextupventures.com>
For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
rain
water from running into your avionics etc.?
This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
this is
when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
and all
of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone
meet you
to remove the water first. :-)
Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
appreciated. I am
heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the
next few
days.
Thanks,
James
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Piper pitot static |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
I agree with Stein on the static system. Stick with Van's design.
There are several different Piper pitot-static tubes, with different
angles on the bottom face. The angle affects the pressure sensed by
the static port. If you can find someone with a known working
location, and you can get the exact same tube, and mount it in the
exact same way, including fore and aft location, distance from the
bottom of the wing and angle of the probe, you might just get a
satisfactory result. Or you might not, if the original person didn't
do enough testing to really know how well their system worked.
Static system errors will affect both altitude and airspeed. And you
need to know the instrument error for both the altimeter and ASI to
really know how accurate your static system is working. Otherwise
you can't differentiate between instrument error and static system
error.
I watched with amusement as Diamond messed around with Piper pitot-
static ports on the prototype DA-20C (or was it the DA-20?). The
DV-20 used a Piper pitot-static tube, with good accuracy. Diamond
Canada had changed the wing structural design, which moved the front
spar, and thus they needed to move the pitot-static tube a couple of
inches fore and aft. They flew dozens of hours of flight testing,
with every part number Piper tube available, with no success. They
eventually ended up putting a custom angle on the bottom to get a
working solution. Some of the non-working solutions resulted in
huge airspeed and altitude errors.
The pitot portion should work great. Stein's comment about not
getting too close to the bottom of the wing is true - you don't want
to get too close to the boundary layer. But, I can't imagine how you
could have a problem unless you somehow put the base of the tube
inside the wing, so the pitot port was closer to the wing than Piper
intended.
Once you get flying, you should do some testing to see how accurate
your static source is. Info you need to do this is at:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/ssec.html
Kevin Horton
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
On 14 Jul 2005, at 15:10, Stein Bruch wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> I'd install that Piper part right into the tool box drawer and buy a
> standard pitot tube, then install the static ports where they're
> known to
> work.
>
> Sorry for the sarcasm - but why re-invent the wheel? It' not like
> those
> piper probes are more attractive, more streamlined, or otherwise
> superior?
>
> Also, contrary to what you may have found, pitot location on these
> RV wings
> is inedeed fairly important. No so much on the inboard/outboard
> measurement
> from the fuse, but morever the vertical depth from the wing. Too
> close to
> the bottom of the wing skin and you'll get erroneous data.
>
> Just my 2 cents!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
> do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Burden
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Piper pitot static
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Burden" <crb@commspeed.net>
>
> HELP!!
>
> I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need
> advice from
> some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have
> checked the
> archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical
> but the
> static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
> 96392-006.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Ron
> CRB@commspeed.net
> RV 7-A quickbuild
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Time: 03:13:28 PM PST US
From: bertrv6@highstream.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting Jeff Dowling <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
<shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
> Fabric shops sell molding already made for this for just a couple of
bucks.
> Its all in the archives somewhere.
Thanks Bert-
> > Glen Matejcek
> >
> > Glen: When I was ready to do that on my rv6a, I follow Tony Bingilis
construction books... one of them has excellent ideas and drawings
inexpensive too...
I think is one volume one....Kook it up..
Good luck
Bert
rv6a
do not archive
> >
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Fun Sun Airshow DVD |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
Forgive this for being a little off topic...(!) .. but I wanted to announce that any RV aviator that didnt have a chance to make it to Sun n Fun last spring has another chance to experience it vicariously thru a DVD video that was just completed. Lots of pictures from the video are displayed at www.HomebuiltHELP.com if interested. There were, of course, more RV homebuilts present than any other make!
Thanks!
Jon
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
No, I don't Don. Just not one of those "exciting" things that it would
occur to me to take a photo of {:>) Its been a few years ago, but seems
like I found the shape/size I wanted looking in the JCWhitney auto catalog
which had a page or two with numerous types of seals.
Ed A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
Subject: RE: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
"Tip-Up"????
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
>
> Ed,
> Do you have any photos of your L-shaped molding?
> Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
> "Tip-Up"????
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> James I used a strip of thick (1/4-3/8") molding (automotive) shaped sort
> of like an "L". I place the "L" horizontal such that the "foot" of the
> "L"
> was set back from the front of the opening edge and sticking up. I don't
> have a part number - suggest checking some of the auto catalogs for
> sealing
> strips and look at the diagrams of the different type. This is glued (3M)
> to the metal strip that runs around the top of the instrument panel
> bulkhead
>
> (at least on the 6A) and down the sides. Most of the water that runs off
> the canopy gets "trapped" by the "foot" of the L and is diverted down the
> sides of the instrument panel bulkhead. Also If a lot of water has
> accumulated on the canopy, I first wipe if off with one of the very soft
> silicon plastic water wipes (sometimes called "California Wipers") Also
> opening the canopy slowly will help control the rate of run-off. Hope
> this
> helps.
>
> Ed
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
> "Tip-Up"????
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
>> --> <james@nextupventures.com>
>>
>> For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
>> rain water from running into your avionics etc.?
>>
>> This is assuming the plane is OUTSIDE and UNCOVERED. A scenario for
>> this
>> is
>> when you are at an Airshow like Sun-n-Fun or AirVenture and a surprise
>> shower comes up OR when you are taxiing in and get caught by a shower.
>>
>> The last scenario is particularly bad when you go to open the canopy
>> and
>> all
>> of the water from the canopy drains inside (unless you have someone meet
>> you
>> to remove the water first. :-)
>>
>> Did you build a seal/ditch using just silicone or did you use water
>> repellent cloth? Or did you put a metal cover over everything??
>>
>> Any ideas from someone who has "been there" will be REALLY
>> appreciated. I
>> am
>> heading toward OSH real soon and need to fix this somehow over the next
>> few
>> days.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> James
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Piper pitot static |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
On Jul 14, 2005, at 1:18 PM, Ron Burden wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Burden" <crb@commspeed.net>
>
> HELP!!
>
> I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need
> advice from
> some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have
> checked the
> archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical
> but the
> static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
> 96392-006.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Ron
Ron, I'm using this pitot tube on my RV-8 (same wing as the 7-A) and
it works fine. I did, however, use the stock Van's "pop" rivet
static ports on the aft fuselage. The Piper static port is
unconnected. As Kevin has noted, the pitot source is less critical.
My unadjusted numbers seem to be very accurate on the high end
(within the limits of my ability to check them) and about 4-6 knots
high on the low end. Once I have a little more data I can tweak the
EFIS airspeeds to get it exact.
I flew an RV6 using the Piper pitot and static system, and it was
accurate on the high end, but IIRC about 15 knots low at approach
speeds.
I'm happy I went ahead and installed the stock static system.
James Freeman
N9TN flying!
Message 20
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| Subject: | acoustical & thermal insulation |
--> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
Greg,
I used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (the yellow stuff) P/N 051135-08001 to
glue pieces of black soundproofing (from ACS) on the inside of my fuselage
(behind baggage area) to deaden noises. A little on the soundproofing and just
stick on the aluminum. I suppose there was no more than 20 second drying time.
Works great.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6 with IFR panel
First engine start was last week
Message 21
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| Subject: | Narco 122D mounting? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
I just received a Narco 122D, and am struggling to get the thing in
the panel. I want to mount it on the aft side (front side?, engine
side?, you know what I mean) of the panel, rather than cut an ATI
shaped hole and slip it in from the cockpit side of the panel. I've
cut the hole and its various cutouts, as shown in the install
manual. But I can't get the darned thing in the hole - the knobs are
in the way. It is like a Chinese puzzle. As near as I can figure, I
need to remove every knob to get it to slip into the hole. It seems
like the long shaft at the top right has to slip into its hole first,
and that limits how much you can jockey the unit around to get the
knobs into the cutouts.
I've managed to remove the Power/Volume knob, and the Course Select
knob, but, I can't get the frequency changing knobs off. One set
screw doesn't seem to fit anything I've got to turn it with. It is
so deep in the hole that I can't see what it looks like
What is the trick? Is there a set screw in every hole in the
frequency knobs? Are they all Torx T-5, or is one of something else
like a tiny Allen headed screw?
Thanks for any information.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Narco 122D mounting? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 14 Jul 2005, at 19:10, Kevin Horton wrote:
> I just received a Narco 122D, and am struggling to get the thing in
> the panel. I want to mount it on the aft side (front side?, engine
> side?, you know what I mean) of the panel, rather than cut an ATI
> shaped hole and slip it in from the cockpit side of the panel.
> I've cut the hole and its various cutouts, as shown in the install
> manual. But I can't get the darned thing in the hole - the knobs
> are in the way. It is like a Chinese puzzle. As near as I can
> figure, I need to remove every knob to get it to slip into the
> hole. It seems like the long shaft at the top right has to slip
> into its hole first, and that limits how much you can jockey the
> unit around to get the knobs into the cutouts.
>
> I've managed to remove the Power/Volume knob, and the Course Select
> knob, but, I can't get the frequency changing knobs off. One set
> screw doesn't seem to fit anything I've got to turn it with. It is
> so deep in the hole that I can't see what it looks like
>
> What is the trick? Is there a set screw in every hole in the
> frequency knobs? Are they all Torx T-5, or is one of something
> else like a tiny Allen headed screw?
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
> Kevin
I knew I would figure this out as soon as I sent the e-mail.
I had messed around with that blasted thing for 30 minutes, and
couldn't do it. But I just went back out in the garage for one more
try, and I found the solution. I swear I tried this before, and it
wouldn't work, but it does now.
Solution - remove the Power/Volume and Course Select knobs. Insert
the long Power/Volume shaft in its hole, and slid the unit towards
the panel, so it is at an angle, touching the panel on the right
edge. You should be able to twist it just so to rotate the lower
right portion into place, with the shaft below the frequency changing
knobs slipping into its cutout. Then you can slip the Course Select
knob shaft into its hole. Insert the screws, then replace all the
knobs. Piece of cake :)
Problem solved.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Piper pitot static |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
I have a six A with a used piper pitot. I was skeptical so installed
a dual static system, with hoses to both the piper and to van's pop
rivet. Unfortunately I started with the Van's static system, and
found it to be accurate to teh knot as best I could measure it.
Hence I have not got around to checking the Piper system yet. If
there is any interest, I will do some runs, but not til after Osh.
Denis Walsh
On Jul 14, 2005, at 3:39 PM, James Freeman wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2005, at 1:18 PM, Ron Burden wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Burden" <crb@commspeed.net>
>>
>> HELP!!
>>
>> I have purchased a Piper turbo Arrow Pitot-static probe and need
>> advice from
>> some of you as to where on the 7-A wing to install it. I have
>> checked the
>> archives and they indicate that the pitot location is not critical
>> but the
>> static is but give no locations. My part # for the Pitot-static is
>> 96392-006.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your help.
>>
>> Ron
>>
>
>
> Ron, I'm using this pitot tube on my RV-8 (same wing as the 7-A) and
> it works fine. I did, however, use the stock Van's "pop" rivet
> static ports on the aft fuselage. The Piper static port is
> unconnected. As Kevin has noted, the pitot source is less critical.
> My unadjusted numbers seem to be very accurate on the high end
> (within the limits of my ability to check them) and about 4-6 knots
> high on the low end. Once I have a little more data I can tweak the
> EFIS airspeeds to get it exact.
>
> I flew an RV6 using the Piper pitot and static system, and it was
> accurate on the high end, but IIRC about 15 knots low at approach
> speeds.
>
> I'm happy I went ahead and installed the stock static system.
>
> James Freeman
> N9TN flying!
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 07/14/2005 1:14:47 PM Central Standard Time,
sportav8r@aol.com writes:
For those of you with the RV6 or7 "Tip-Up" Canopy, how do you keep
rain
water from running into your avionics etc.?
>>>
I found that one major ingress point on my tip-up was the flutes around the
top of the sub-panel. Water would collect in these openings behind the
weatherstrip, then pour on me and pax's feet when taking off. Good idea to seal
these up before final install of canopy...
Mark
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> Would you tell me how and when the EGT would be "really important" to
> have?
>
Vic,
Multi probe EGT can be very helpful in diagnosing which spark cylinder or
plug is causing a rough mag check.
Others posted that it would be important to have it for fuel injection, and
here is why: With FI, one has the opportunity to finely balance mixtures
from cylinder to cylinder by swapping out injector nozzles. However, this
can only be done if one knows when each cylinder reaches peak EGT. Some
carbureted RV's can be run lean of peak smoothly with electronic ignition
and a little luck. In those cases, knowing EGT's is also important to
establish how balanced the mixtures are. I routinely cruise next to other
RV's burning 2 gallons/hour more than I (9 vs 7), which is the payback. I
need to add that without electronic ignition advance, I cannot lean as
aggressively.
In many RV's, cooling is marginal (a desirable performance attribute for
most missions). If one simply pulls the red knob until it runs rough, and
then richens it until it is smooth, they will likely be running at something
around peak EGT. In an RV, this will probably mean CHT's which are quite
high as compared to 50 LOP or 100 ROP operations. If I simply "rich til
smooth", my CHT's may run up near 400 on a given flight. Leaning (I have
FI) to 50 LOP will lower CHT's by around 50 - 60 degrees (I am not kidding).
None of this matters much on the ol' trainer spam cans, as their cooling is
excessive (which is partly to blame when an RV climbing at 1500 fpm runs
past a 172 in level cruise).
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 635 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 26
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| Subject: | Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. |
--> RV-List message posted by:
Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. Closing the
gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), calls
for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of hard.
Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws (#6
screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable?
Thanks,
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage
Message 27
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| Subject: | Ellison TBI Troubles |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Oh wise Listers,
I 've just started ground testing on my RV-6A. I have
encountered a rough running condition at full throttle
that smooths out with extreme leaning ( about 1/2 of
my mixture lever pulled back) and adds another 150
RPM.
I've got an O-360 with one Lightspeed and one Mag, The
Ellison EFS 4-5 with Vans air box, turning the big 85
pitch Sensenich metal prop. With aggressive leaning I
can get the RPM others on the list report (about 2200
RPM). It just seems toooooo lean.
Jim Ellison says just lean it until it runs smooth at
full throttle and takeoff. This has the A&Ps here
scratching thier heads as this is a totally different
procedure than what they are familiar with. I don't
want to damage my engine or the test pilot on the
first flight.
Any thoughts from those who have experience with this
setup? How about any clever O-320 guys with some
ideas?
Please help me in Honolulu.
Mahalo.
Greg
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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