Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:16 AM - Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 05:18 AM - Re: Ellison TBI Troubles (linn walters)
3. 05:28 AM - Re: Carb Heat (Dale Ensing)
4. 06:26 AM - Fast Back Question ET AL (flynlow)
5. 07:02 AM - RV / Long-EZ collision (Jerry Hansen)
6. 07:28 AM - Re: RV / Long-EZ collision (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
7. 07:40 AM - Re: Fast Back Question ET AL (Kevin Horton)
8. 08:48 AM - Re: Ellison TBI Troubles (Brian Huffaker)
9. 09:37 AM - LPS-1 OK? (Amit Dagan)
10. 10:31 AM - Re: LPS-1 OK? (David Burton)
11. 11:07 AM - Re: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? (Hull, Don)
12. 11:13 AM - Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
13. 11:43 AM - CAD files (.dxf or .dwg) of instruments (Tim Olson)
14. 01:36 PM - Re: CAD files (.dxf or .dwg) of instruments (Kevin Williams)
15. 01:36 PM - Re: CAD files (.dxf or .dwg) of instruments (Kevin Williams)
16. 03:19 PM - Inter cylinder baffles (Dale Mitchell)
17. 03:26 PM - Re: Inter cylinder baffles (linn walters)
18. 04:10 PM - Re: Inter cylinder baffles (JOHN STARN)
19. 06:12 PM - Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More ()
20. 06:31 PM - How are you keeping water out of a 6/7-A tip-up? (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
21. 08:16 PM - Re: RV10-List: no match drill (JOHN STARN)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I did just as you suggested at the behest of an award winning RV-8 guy
that said if he had to do one thing over, he would make this mod.
Everything goes into and out of those damn gear towers.
Best
Mike
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/interesting.htm
click on gear tower mod.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
Subject: RV-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
--> RV-List message posted by:
Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes.
Closing the
gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B),
calls
for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of
hard.
Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws
(#6
screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable?
Thanks,
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Ellison TBI Troubles |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Greg Grigson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
>
>Oh wise Listers,
>I 've just started ground testing on my RV-6A. I have
>encountered a rough running condition at full throttle
>that smooths out with extreme leaning ( about 1/2 of
>my mixture lever pulled back) and adds another 150
>RPM.
>
I'm no expert, but that sounds like it's running rich.
>I've got an O-360 with one Lightspeed and one Mag, The
>Ellison EFS 4-5 with Vans air box, turning the big 85
>pitch Sensenich metal prop. With aggressive leaning I
>can get the RPM others on the list report (about 2200
>RPM). It just seems toooooo lean.
>
No experience with the Ellison specifically, but a carbureated engine
will run rough if too lean.
>Jim Ellison says just lean it until it runs smooth at
>full throttle and takeoff. This has the A&Ps here
>scratching thier heads as this is a totally different
>procedure than what they are familiar with.
>
Probably due to the fact they were trained to not lean until at
altitude. I lean ALL the time.
> I don't want to damage my engine or the test pilot on the
>first flight.
>
Good idea!!! :-)
>Any thoughts from those who have experience with this
>setup? How about any clever O-320 guys with some
>ideas?
>
Well, start with the idle .... if it's set correctly, you should be able
to slowly lean until you get a 50 (or so) RPM rise just prior to
cutoff. If there's no rise it's set too lean. Greater than 50 (or so)
then it's set too rich. This adjustment isn't specific to any carg ....
just gas engines ..... and maybe diesels too, I don't know. Now, if you
still have the problem at full throttle, I'd say the jet is too large
and it's still running too rich. Talk to the Ellison guys again. If
you have EGT and CHT available, you can use them as an indicator of
whether things are OK or not. Peak EGT would coinside with the peak of
the RPM rise at idle and full throttle.
Depending on the type of mixture control cable, you can do what I do. I
use Dykem Blue (metal workers use it to lay out parts with) to paint the
shaft of the mixture control which is set to full lean (pull to stumble
and then push 'till it smoothes out) on the ground (sea level for me).
This way I can pull the mixture out 'till the shaft shows 'silver' again
without having to play with it a lot.
>Please help me in Honolulu.
>
This is basic, and should work ..... even in Honolulu!
BTW, I spent 10 months there back in '66/'67 .... and loved it. Worked
at the Kaena Point Tracking Station and went to U.H.
Fond memories.
Linn
do not archive
>Mahalo.
>Greg
>
>
>
>http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>
>
>
--
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Hi George,
Sorry, I do not have carb. temp. change info. using Vans carb heat scat tube
flange on the airbox. Will take note of that in the future. Usually just
look for the RPM drop to confirm that carb heat is working.
Dale
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fast Back Question ET AL |
--> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Hello Group;
1. Does anyone sell or have a set of plans to make an RV8 into a fast back?
I liked the pictures I saw and would like to see more. I am at this point
unwilling to pay the price for a kit. I would prefer to fabricate my own and
plans would be quite helpful.
2. Is there any performance gain with the fast back?
3. Has anyone ever used the spray styrofoam insulation found at most lumber
yards for sound deadening and insulation in an RV? Looks to me like it would
be cheap and work quite well, but I have no experience using it.
Thank you
Bud Silvers
RV-8 Starting fuselage soon.
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV / Long-EZ collision |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen@cox.net>
With regard to the RV - Long-EZ mid-air collision last weekend, there is a
remarkable video that has been posted, commemorating the canard aviator. It
shows a bit of the formation flight work of which they were all so proud.
http://www.GlassOvercast.com/video/jayblum.wmv
Jerry
Message 6
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| Subject: | RV / Long-EZ collision |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Thanks Jerry!. A great tribute.
Mike
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Hansen
Subject: RV-List: RV / Long-EZ collision
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen@cox.net>
With regard to the RV - Long-EZ mid-air collision last weekend, there is
a
remarkable video that has been posted, commemorating the canard aviator.
It
shows a bit of the formation flight work of which they were all so
proud.
http://www.GlassOvercast.com/video/jayblum.wmv
Jerry
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fast Back Question ET AL |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 15 Jul 2005, at 09:24, flynlow wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
> 2. Is there any performance gain with the fast back?
>
In theory, there should be a small reduction in drag, which would
result in slightly higher speeds. But, the only way to really know
how much the increase is would be to start with a normal RV-8, do
comprehensive performance testing, then modify that aircraft, without
making any other changes.
If you tried to compare performance of someone's fastback RV-8,
against "normal" RV-8s, it would be very difficult to separate out
the effect of the fastback mod from other things, such as engine to
engine variation, prop to prop variation, how straight the aircraft
are built, how the flaps and ailerons are rigged, weight and CG, how
accurately the performance is measured, etc.
Kent Pacer did a whole series of modifications to his Mustang II,
measuring the speed after each mod. He did a fastback mod on it, and
measured a 12 mph gain in top speed. But his original canopy was
probably draggier than an RV-8 canopy (more bulbous canopy), and he
greatly reduced the canopy height at the same time he made the
fastback mod. He also increased the slope of the front windscreen,
and came up with a way to seal the canopy skirt to keep cockpit air
from blowing out under the skirt (the escaping air will disturb the
airflow around the fuselage, and increase drag). The RV-8 fastback
mods I know about are much less of mod from an aerodynamic
perspective than the one Kent Pacer did.
I would expect that the two RV-8 fastback mods that I have seen
pictures of would produce no more than half the performance increase
that Kent Pacer found for his, i.e. 6 mph increase, or less.
Probably less.
A whole series of performance improvements can eventually add up -
Kent Pacer increased the top speed of his aircraft by 64 mph at 8,000
ft, with the only internal engine mod being a compression increase by
putting 160 hp pistons in the 150 hp O-320 (that mod was worth 2
mph). But each individual mod only added a small bit, and some
promising sounding mods actually reduced the speed. Kent Pacer's
book, Speed With Economy is worth reading for anyone who is
interested in improving the performance of their aircraft.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Ellison TBI Troubles |
T_TM2_M_HEADER_IN_MSG autolearn=disabled version=3.0.3
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Huffaker <bifft@xmission.com>
On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Greg Grigson wrote:
> I've got an O-360 with one Lightspeed and one Mag, The
> Ellison EFS 4-5 with Vans air box, turning the big 85
> pitch Sensenich metal prop. With aggressive leaning I
> can get the RPM others on the list report (about 2200
> RPM). It just seems toooooo lean.
>
> Jim Ellison says just lean it until it runs smooth at
> full throttle and takeoff. This has the A&Ps here
> scratching thier heads as this is a totally different
> procedure than what they are familiar with. I don't
> want to damage my engine or the test pilot on the
> first flight.
>
Have an Ellison on a O-360 in the Starduster, it behaves just as you
describe. I never thought of it as a problem as all my flight training
took place at 4500ft and above, so leaning before takeoff was normal.
Full rich is used for start only, as soon as the engine is running, back
to about half so it is running smooth
I do find that I need to do a full throttle runup to lean the engine
correctly, or I don't get full power.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft@xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Riviting mid-cabin covers.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
I sent this question a couple of days ago but it must have been lost in the
ether:
Is there any reason why NOT to use LPS-1 for rod-end bearing lubrication?
Thanks,
Amit.
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> Is there any reason why NOT to use LPS-1 for rod-end bearing lubrication?
No, except that it doesn't provide much lubrication. I've used LPS 1 and 3
for many years (30) but have not been really happy with either. I wonder if
Van has a suggestion? I just spent a nice couple of hours with Bruce and
Tom trapped by the weather but did not think to ask them about this. I've
been wondering the same thing.
I've been using SuperLube almost exclusively for most of my fine (light)
lubricating needs for the last several years and think it is a great
solution. Cheap and works great for the intended purpose.
http://www.super-lube.com/
Dave,
RV6
Message 11
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| Subject: | How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7 "Tip-Up"???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
I was hoping for a photo of the installation. You know...a picture is worth
a thousand words. Thanks, anyway. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: How are you keeping the water out of an RV6/7
"Tip-Up"????
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
No, I don't Don. Just not one of those "exciting" things that it would
occur to me to take a photo of {:>) Its been a few years ago, but seems
like I found the shape/size I wanted looking in the JCWhitney auto catalog
which had a page or two with numerous types of seals.
Ed A
Message 12
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| Subject: | Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. |
--> RV-List message posted by:
Thanks all - I gather the consensus is to make the 802C junction removable.
I'll cut 802C into three pieces - a long center section which shall be
removable, bolted onto the angle, the top and bottom sections will be
riveted. The junction will be via doublers with two lines of rivets and #6
screws on nutplates to guarantee a solid mechanical continuity.
Michele
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 2:15 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
> <mstewart@iss.net>
>
> I did just as you suggested at the behest of an award winning RV-8 guy
> that said if he had to do one thing over, he would make this mod.
> Everything goes into and out of those damn gear towers.
>
> Best
> Mike
> http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/interesting.htm
>
> click on gear tower mod.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com; rv8-list@matronics.com; RV-8@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
>
> --> RV-List message posted by:
>
> Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes.
> Closing the
> gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B),
> calls
> for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of
> hard.
> Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws
> (#6
> screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michele Delsol
>
> RV8 - Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | CAD files (.dxf or .dwg) of instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Does anyone have any pre-made CAD files for instruments in .dxf or .dwg
format....specifically would like to get some for 2.25" round
instruments, the split master switch, Hobbs meter, and perhaps a GNS480,
SL30, GTX330, and PMA8000. Some of these should be pretty easy
to draw up, but if there are preexisting files, it could save some
time tossing them together.
Thanks for any that you can provide, or any tips as to good repositories
to go looking in.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 14
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| Subject: | CAD files (.dxf or .dwg) of instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Kevin
Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV-List: CAD files (.dxf or .dwg) of instruments
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Does anyone have any pre-made CAD files for instruments in .dxf or .dwg
format....specifically would like to get some for 2.25" round
instruments, the split master switch, Hobbs meter, and perhaps a GNS480,
SL30, GTX330, and PMA8000. Some of these should be pretty easy
to draw up, but if there are preexisting files, it could save some
time tossing them together.
Thanks for any that you can provide, or any tips as to good repositories
to go looking in.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 15
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| Subject: | CAD files (.dxf or .dwg) of instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Kevin
Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV-List: CAD files (.dxf or .dwg) of instruments
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Does anyone have any pre-made CAD files for instruments in .dxf or .dwg
format....specifically would like to get some for 2.25" round
instruments, the split master switch, Hobbs meter, and perhaps a GNS480,
SL30, GTX330, and PMA8000. Some of these should be pretty easy
to draw up, but if there are preexisting files, it could save some
time tossing them together.
Thanks for any that you can provide, or any tips as to good repositories
to go looking in.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 16
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| Subject: | Inter cylinder baffles |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
Are the inter cylinder baffles on a lycoming O-360
engine necessary?
Dale Mitchell
RV-8A
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Inter cylinder baffles |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Dale Mitchell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
>
>Are the inter cylinder baffles on a lycoming O-360
>engine necessary?
>
Yes. If you're talking about the 'wedgie' on the bottom between the
cylinders. This forces the air to go through and around the cylinder
fins instead of blowing straight down. Don't leave home without them.
Linn
do not archive
>Dale Mitchell
>RV-8A
>
>
>
>http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>
>
>
--
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Inter cylinder baffles |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
It also helps create a "backpressure" so the air is forced thru & around the
"outside" fins too. Without them most, if not all, the air would blow right
thru the larger openings and ignore the fin areas. IE: NO COOLING. (The
IO-540 has twice the wedgies as the 360)
KABONG 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inter cylinder baffles
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Dale Mitchell wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
>>
>>Are the inter cylinder baffles on a lycoming O-360
>>engine necessary?
>>
> Yes. If you're talking about the 'wedgie' on the bottom between the
> cylinders. This forces the air to go through and around the cylinder
> fins instead of blowing straight down. Don't leave home without them.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>>Dale Mitchell
>>RV-8A
>>
>>
>>
>>http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More |
--> RV-List message posted by: <fablef@bellsouth.net>
Hi Everyone,
With Matt Dralle's permission, I wanted to let everyone on the list know that Affordable
Panels has added electrical tools, electrical supplies, wiring harnesses
and more to our inventory. We have some of the lowest prices on everything
from tools, terminals, connectors, wire, electroluminescent lighting, etc.
Our wiring harnesses for all Trutrak Autopilots are available in "Standard" and
"Wing Root Disconnect" form, and we also offer harnesses for the Dynon EFIS,
Flightcom and many others at the very best prices.
Our full page catalog will be out in a couple of weeks. In the mean time, anyone
interested can download the electrical portion of our catalog here.
http://www.affordablepanels.com/electrical.htm
All electrical orders placed on-line or faxed with a total above $175.00 will ship
free via UPS GROUND.
Best Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | How are you keeping water out of a 6/7-A tip-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
I made up three (3) shallow trays, like long, narrow (about 2.5") ice cube
trays. I fastened the forward side of each tray with screws and nutplates to
the sub panel. The slightly longer center tray over my radio stack tilts
slightly to the right. If it fills, the run-over spills over into the right tray
(which, because of the fuselage curvature, also tilts to the right). The left
tray tilts slightly to the left. You may add sponges to each tray which absorb
a lot of water. Neatly constructed and nicely painted the arrangement looks
good. Further, at a show the trays can easily be unscrewed and removed if you
wish.
I have a Garmin 530 and much more to protect.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, N216PH
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List: no match drill |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Read plans, measure, cut, smooth edges, measure..re-read plans (both sets),
re-measure, mark, punch, drill....OH sorry.... I was thinking of the first
10 or 12 steps of the HRII program before the first debar. 8*) KABONG Do
Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>
> Ream, deburr, dimple, cleco, rivet.
>
> Russ Daves
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