Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:25 AM - Re: Wooden stick grips (Jeff Point)
2. 04:05 AM - 7A or 9A (Daniel Snow)
3. 04:07 AM - Doug Rozendaal is famous :-) (Jerry Springer)
4. 06:36 AM - Re: Doug Rozendaal is famous :-) (sportav8r@aol.com)
5. 06:48 AM - Battery reading minus? (bertrv6@highstream.net)
6. 06:56 AM - Re: Plasma II for sale (rveighta)
7. 07:03 AM - Re: To Mat (Mike Robertson)
8. 07:21 AM - Re: C-Frame Mod (Dave Saylor)
9. 07:43 AM - Re: Battery reading minus? (Bob C.)
10. 07:53 AM - Re: Wooden stick grips (LarryRobertHelming)
11. 08:08 AM - Re: Battery reading minus? (Scott Bilinski)
12. 09:00 AM - Re: Battery reading minus? (Bill Dube)
13. 09:19 AM - Re: Wooden stick grips (David Leonard)
14. 09:20 AM - Re: And another crash at Oshkosh? Pilots Report (Jeff Point)
15. 09:26 AM - Re: 7A or 9A (Albert Gardner)
16. 09:27 AM - Re: Battery reading minus? (linn walters)
17. 09:43 AM - Which clay? (Randy Lervold)
18. 10:20 AM - Re: Which clay? (David Leonard)
19. 10:31 AM - Re: Which clay? (Ross Mickey)
20. 10:38 AM - Re: Modeling...clay. (Randy Lervold)
21. 10:54 AM - EAA photo (Frazier, Vincent A)
22. 10:54 AM - Sealer for canopy skirts (N67BT@aol.com)
23. 11:09 AM - Re: EAA photo (Rob Prior (rv7))
24. 11:12 AM - Re: EAA photo (George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR)
25. 11:16 AM - Re: And another crash at Oshkosh? Pilots Report (Jeff Orear)
26. 11:47 AM - Re: EAA photo (JOHN STARN)
27. 01:13 PM - Cutting or Punching Panels (Darrell Reiley)
28. 01:23 PM - Re: Re: Modeling...clay. (Brian Alley)
29. 01:42 PM - Re: Cutting or Punching Panels (Scott Bilinski)
30. 02:01 PM - Modeling Clay Product (Jack Blomgren)
31. 02:26 PM - Re: Re: Modeling...clay. (Randy Lervold)
32. 02:51 PM - Re: Which clay? (BRUCE GRAY)
33. 02:56 PM - Re: Re: Modeling...clay. (Tim Bryan)
34. 02:56 PM - Re: Battery reading minus? (Bob C.)
35. 03:05 PM - Re: Which clay? (Bob C.)
36. 03:10 PM - Re: EAA photo (LarryRobertHelming)
37. 03:13 PM - Re: Re: Modeling...clay. (Brian Alley)
38. 03:17 PM - Re: Cutting or Punching Panels (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
39. 04:25 PM - Re: Re: Modeling...clay. (linn walters)
40. 06:40 PM - Re: Sealer for canopy skirts (Larry Bowen)
41. 09:30 PM - Re: 7A or 9A (Mike Holland)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wooden stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I'd use a set screw instead of glue, in case you ever have to remove
it. I used a #8 flush head on the forward bottom and tapped it into the
stick.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel Snow" <daniel.snow@earthlink.net>
I was ready to place my order for a 9A until I talked with a guy at the
KitLog Pro booth. He strongly encouraged me to reconsider the 7A, saying
that it didn't fly that much differently than the 9A, plus you have the
expanded option of aerobatics. For those of you that have flown both and
decided on a 9A, can you tell me why you chose the 9A? Was there really
that much difference between the two?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Doug Rozendaal is famous :-) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Doug, nice write up in AVflash
INSIDE OSH AIRVENTURE -- WHO FLIES THOSE WARBIRDS?
Doug Rozendaal arrived at Oshkosh flying a DC-3 and left in an F6F
Hellcat. He doesn't own either of them, nor does he own any of the
Corsairs, B-25s or Mustangs he transports to air shows for owners.
With a small nod and smile he offered, "I've been very lucky in my
flying career." Rozendaal's education with warbirds began with flying
freight in DC-3s and Beech 18s. These airplanes were not the well-kept
examples seen around Oshkosh. But they provided a good, if hazardous,
classroom. One Beech 18 had Rozendaal in IMC handling an emergency
with his right hand and holding a cup of urine in his left.
http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/446-full.html#190298
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Doug Rozendaal is famous :-) |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
I hope Doug didn't forget what it was he was holding. When the going gets tough,
there's nothing like a mug of foamy amber liquid to calm the nerves.
-Stormy
(I must've brewed "regular" by mistake this morning)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Doug Rozendaal is famous :-)
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Doug, nice write up in AVflash
INSIDE OSH AIRVENTURE -- WHO FLIES THOSE WARBIRDS?
Doug Rozendaal arrived at Oshkosh flying a DC-3 and left in an F6F
Hellcat. He doesn't own either of them, nor does he own any of the
Corsairs, B-25s or Mustangs he transports to air shows for owners.
With a small nod and smile he offered, "I've been very lucky in my
flying career." Rozendaal's education with warbirds began with flying
freight in DC-3s and Beech 18s. These airplanes were not the well-kept
examples seen around Oshkosh. But they provided a good, if hazardous,
classroom. One Beech 18 had Rozendaal in IMC handling an emergency
with his right hand and holding a cup of urine in his left.
http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/446-full.html#190298
Message 5
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| Subject: | Battery reading minus? |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I have being re-arranging, the wiring on the panel, and all of the sudden
when testing battery, it shows a negative value...like (- 12.40)
A word comes to mind, reverse polarity... I don't know , whatever that
means..
I have checked most of the ground wires, I still have others to go, etc..
Any ideas
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
Do Not archive
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Re: Plasma II for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: rveighta <rveighta@earthlink.net>
Mike, I'm interested in the LSE Plasma II. I have van's strobe lighting system
2, option A which they sell for $851 (pg 61 in Van's Cat.). It's new in the box,
never been used. Will trade even if you're interested.
Walt Shipley
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Plasma II for sale
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
I have a LSE Plasma II complete ignition system with the Hall Effects sensor
for sale. It was taken off of a friend's RV-8 as he was upgrading his
system. It is in excellent condition. It also has a bonus of a Slick
magnteo top with spark plug leads in like new condition. It sold for around
$900 new. I am asking $600 OBO and will throw in shipping anywhere in the
US.
Mike Robertson
(509) 998-1793
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Mat,
Thanks much.
Mike Robertson
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: To Mat
>Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 19:23:58 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>
>Looks like the Matronics Spam filter was flagging you through the
>Spam Cop system. Here's the URL that was included in the block:
>
> http://www.spamcop.net/bl.shtml?64.4.56.200
>
>I forwarded your email onto the List. Sorry for the hassle.
>
>Matt
>
>
>At 10:55 AM 8/3/2005 Wednesday, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Mat,
> >
> >You spam blocker has blocked me out three times now. I have an LSE
>Plasma
> >II ignition for sale I would like to offer to the list prior to offering
>it
> >on EBAy. What does it take to get through?
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >Do Not Archive
> >
> > >From: MAILER-DAEMON <>
> > >To: <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> > >Subject: **Message you sent blocked by our bulk email filter**
> > >Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 10:03:34 -0700 (PDT)
> > >
> > >Your message to: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >was blocked by our Spam Firewall. The email you sent with the following
> > >subject has NOT BEEN DELIVERED:
> > >
> > >Subject: LSE Plasma II Ignition
> > >
> > ><< attach3 >>
> > ><< attach4 >>
> >
> >
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Saylor" <Dave@aircraftersllc.com>
The giant yoke accepts any standard "C" type hand squeezer. The one shown
is a large tandem squeezer, but the one I'm using now is a smaller version,
$269 overhauled from The Yard. I had to swap the set holder for a longer
one ($19). The foot switch is from Avery, about $140. All up I've got
about $950 in it.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris W
Subject: Re: RV-List: C-Frame Mod
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W
<1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Dave Saylor wrote:
>Are you thinking of this? The squeezer is foot controlled and actuates
very
>slowly.
>
>http://www.aircraftersllc.com/classifieds/yoke.htm
>
>
That says it only comes with the yoke. What size squeezer does it need
and how much do they cost. It looks like a lot bigger than the hand
pneumatic squeezers that are common.
--
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Battery reading minus? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Yes something is reversed . . . If it read normally before your
"re-arranging" . . . I would look pretty hard at what you "re-arranged"!
Good Luck,
Bob - RV-8 finishing slowly!!
On 8/4/05, bertrv6@highstream.net <bertrv6@highstream.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
> I have being re-arranging, the wiring on the panel, and all of the sudden
> when testing battery, it shows a negative value...like (- 12.40)
>
> A word comes to mind, reverse polarity... I don't know , whatever that
> means..
>
> I have checked most of the ground wires, I still have others to go, etc..
>
> Any ideas
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
>
> Do Not archive
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wooden stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I agree with Jeff. Start thinking about how to maintain your plane going
forward.
Indiana (Evansville) Larry, RV7 Tip Up 52 hours and still got that RV Grin
; - ))
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> I'd use a set screw instead of glue, in case you ever have to remove
> it. I used a #8 flush head on the forward bottom and tapped it into the
> stick.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Battery reading minus? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Wires reversed on the volt meter?
At 09:42 AM 8/4/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
>
>Yes something is reversed . . . If it read normally before your
>"re-arranging" . . . I would look pretty hard at what you "re-arranged"!
> Good Luck,
>Bob - RV-8 finishing slowly!!
>
> On 8/4/05, bertrv6@highstream.net <bertrv6@highstream.net> wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
> >
> >
> > Hi:
> >
> > I have being re-arranging, the wiring on the panel, and all of the sudden
> > when testing battery, it shows a negative value...like (- 12.40)
> >
> > A word comes to mind, reverse polarity... I don't know , whatever that
> > means..
> >
> > I have checked most of the ground wires, I still have others to go, etc..
> >
> > Any ideas
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Bert
> >
> > rv6a
> >
> >
> > Do Not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Battery reading minus? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 07:47 AM 8/4/2005, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
> I have being re-arranging, the wiring on the panel, and all of the sudden
>when testing battery, it shows a negative value...like (- 12.40)
Needless to say, something is terribly wrong.
1) Start by measuring the voltage right at the battery terminals.
2) Double check to be sure that you haven't put the battery in backwards.
3) Use the same voltmeter to check the voltage on a battery out of your
flashlight, just to be sure that the voltmeter is working correctly.
It is very possible to charge a lead-acid battery in reverse by
hooking the charger up backwards. This is a great way to toast the charger
and all the electronics in the airplane. The battery is a goner as well. It
won't have anything close to its rated capacity ever again.
Bill Dube'
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Wooden stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com>
Ok, I cut the pilot stick off and I sanded the inside of my wooden grip
> to were it will slide on snugly.
> Do I need to put some kind of glue on the inside of the grip when I
> slide it on?
>
> --
I used a dab of RTV. Holds fine for normal stick forces, not affected by
temperature, and should be easy to pull off should you ever need to.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vp4skydoc/index.html
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: And another crash at Oshkosh? Pilots Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Ross,
I have new-in-box horizontal stab front spars (2) and the 614 splice
plate left over. They've been sitting in my basement since '99 in the
original shipping tube, but I looked at them and they appear to be in
good shape, corrosion wise. They're yours if you need them, just give
me an address.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
do not archive
PS I tried to send this to you off list but it bounced.
>Thanks, Bob. I have received some off-list offers already that are very
>much appreciated. The large new parts I need are 1) the entire
>empennage 2) nose gear 3) two wing tips 4) roll bar 5) canopy frame 6)
>canopy 7) left aileron 8) prop. All the rest are small parts,
>fiberglass (I hate it) and labor.
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@adelphia.net>
I tried both and they fly much the same as does all of vans planes. Most
builders of the 7 seem to go for the 360 engine and C/S props so the initial
cost vs the 9 would be higher. The 9 will be a little slower but fuel burn
will be lower so cost per hour is less. There may be a larger resale market
for the 7 because of its aerobatic capability.
Albert Gardner RV-9A
N872RV 540 hrs, 21 states so far, twice to Oshkosh
Yuma, AZ
--> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel Snow" <daniel.snow@earthlink.net>
I was ready to place my order for a 9A until I talked with a guy at the
KitLog Pro booth. He strongly encouraged me to reconsider the 7A, saying
that it didn't fly that much differently than the 9A, plus you have the
expanded option of aerobatics. For those of you that have flown both and
decided on a 9A, can you tell me why you chose the 9A? Was there really
that much difference between the two?
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Battery reading minus? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I think this one is easy. The meter is hooked up backwards. DC (which
is what our batteries and electrical system prefer) are polarity
sensitive. The "+" terminal is the hot side and the "-" terminal is
ground in "negative ground" systems. There are "positive ground"
systems also but are disappearing along with dinosaurs.
For your problem, you have probably hooked the "+" wire from the meter
to ground and the "-" wire to the DC buss (which is where the battery
ties to the circuit breakers etc.
Hope this helps!
Linn
do not archive
bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
> I have being re-arranging, the wiring on the panel, and all of the sudden
>when testing battery, it shows a negative value...like (- 12.40)
>
> A word comes to mind, reverse polarity... I don't know , whatever that
>means..
>
>I have checked most of the ground wires, I still have others to go, etc..
>
> Any ideas
>
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Bert
>
>rv6a
>
>
>Do Not archive
>
>
>
>
--
Message 17
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Fiberglass gurus,
I'm getting ready to do intersection fairings on my plane as well as a
buddy's and wanted to get some last minute advice on the best clay to use
for forming. From what I've gathered, and used before, there seem to be
three options...
#1 Dark brown stuff that I purchased from a craft store and used on my RV-8
(http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Fairings.htm), but it was kind of hard and
difficult to work with. I suspect there is better stuff out there.
#2 Lighter tan stuff I found in the craft store recently that is much more
pliable, I think it's called "plasticene" or something similar. Quite a bit
more expensive but looks like it would be much more workable. Seems to be
oil based.
#3 Play-Doh. One of our local builders used it for his intersection fairings
and loves it. Of course it's cheap and readily available. Because Play-Doh
water-based http://www.hasbro.com/playdoh/pl/page.faq/dn/default.cfm would
it therefore be more of a problem to get released?
In addition to upper & lower intersection fairings on two planes I also need
to make an empennage intersection fairing from scratch for my RV-3. As you
can appreciate I'd like to get the best materials and techniques locked in
before entering fiberglass hell once again.
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com>
> Fiberglass gurus,
>
> I'm getting ready to do intersection fairings on my plane as well as a
> buddy's and wanted to get some last minute advice on the best clay to use
> for forming. From what I've gathered, and used before, there seem to be
> three options...
>
> #1 Dark brown stuff that I purchased from a craft store and used on my
> RV-8
> (http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Fairings.htm), but it was kind of hard and
> difficult to work with. I suspect there is better stuff out there.
>
> #2 Lighter tan stuff I found in the craft store recently that is much more
> pliable, I think it's called "plasticene" or something similar. Quite a
> bit
> more expensive but looks like it would be much more workable. Seems to be
> oil based.
>
> #3 Play-Doh. One of our local builders used it for his intersection
> fairings
> and loves it. Of course it's cheap and readily available. Because Play-Doh
> water-based http://www.hasbro.com/playdoh/pl/page.faq/dn/default.cfm would
> it therefore be more of a problem to get released?
>
> In addition to upper & lower intersection fairings on two planes I also
> need
> to make an empennage intersection fairing from scratch for my RV-3. As you
> can appreciate I'd like to get the best materials and techniques locked in
> before entering fiberglass hell once again.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com <http://www.rv-3.com>
> www.rv-8.com <http://www.rv-8.com>
>
Randy, I am by no means a Guru, but have used all of those above. BUT, the
best IMHO is pourable foam. Buy it from AS. It sands very nicely, is cheap
and fills whatever shape you need. Can even be left behind in some places if
desired without adding measurable weight. Cover it with clear tape or
plastic after shaping to get it to release. Electrical tape will also work
as a release agent. for smoother finish you can cover the shaped foam with
micro and sand to perfect shape, then cover with a quality release agent.
Play dough works without release agent, but is heavier and more difficult
to form. some of it usually gets stuck to the lay-up leaving behind the
color you chose. It is too heavy to leave behind of course.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vp4skydoc/index.html
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>>>Fiberglass gurus,
Well, that leaves me out of the picture but it won't stop me from piping
up.
>>>the best clay to use for forming
I used a clay that came in a block, about 1"x4"x4", of 4 colors. Each
color tore off as a long rectangle. I liked how the stuff stuck to
itself, smoothed out and stayed soft (non-hardening). I got it at the
local craft store but can't tell you the brand.
I will be entering this dreaded zone of stickiness and dust soon
myself....Yuck!!
Ross
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> Oh gawd, fiberglass hell. You have my condolences.
>
> I used a greyish-green clay from the local art supply store. It's oil
> based and is rather hard, but not too bad when warm. I applied Turtlewax
> as a release agent but really don't think it was necessary. After I
> completed all this clay molding effort, a local long eze builder stopped
> by years ago and said, "Ya know, that's old school. We glass guys just
> use strips of duct tape to blend the contours and form the fairings, and
> you don't need any release agent. Glass won't stick to it."
>
> He's right. It doesn't. I might try this when I venture into the
> composite abyss the next time.
>
> Have fun!
> Brian in Albeqwerky
Ooh, strips of duct tape, sounds worth trying! Anyone tried that? Those eze
guys should know.
Thanks Brian,
Randy
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
http://www.airventure.org/2005/gallery/images/sun24/detailing.jpg Do
you think that the photographer even noticed the Bonanza?
Vince Frazier
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://vincesrocket.com/
Message 22
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| Subject: | Sealer for canopy skirts |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
Hi folks,
Can someone tell me what material is being used for a seal between the
canopy Plexi and the skirts and where to obtain it? Van's said they use a bead
of
window sealer.
Thanks,
Bob Trumpfheller
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
What Bonanza? :P
-Rob
On 10:54:23 2005-08-04 "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
> http://www.airventure.org/2005/gallery/images/sun24/detailing.jpg Do
> you think that the photographer even noticed the Bonanza?
>
> Vince Frazier
> F-1H Rocket, N540VF
> http://vincesrocket.com/
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
What Bonanza?
Neal
Do not Archive
http://www.airventure.org/2005/gallery/images/sun24/detailing.jpg Do
you think that the photographer even noticed the Bonanza?
Vince Frazier
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://vincesrocket.com/
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: And another crash at Oshkosh? Pilots Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Ross:
Sorry to hear about your mishap. Your sharing your insights with the rest
of us is greatly appreciated.
I have an extra forward support rod for the roll bar if you need it.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
finishing up stuff...seems to never end!
Peshtigo, WI
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Being a bird (English slang term intended) watcher I think that's a dark
headed, yellow clad, double breasted, mattress thrasher. But that would be
just a guess. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive. HRII, F-1 I know, what's the "H"
represent ?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
> http://www.airventure.org/2005/gallery/images/sun24/detailing.jpg Do
> you think that the photographer even noticed the Bonanza?
>
> Vince Frazier
> F-1H Rocket, N540VF
> http://vincesrocket.com/
Message 27
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| Subject: | Cutting or Punching Panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Looking for feedback on RV builder experiences with panel cutting or punching companies
out there in the RV world today... Do you want to share your panel experience?
Darrell
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
I do builder assistance on the turbine Lancair IVP and currently work on 3 projects.
Duct tape is a common release tape for epoxy but don't try it using polyester
or vinylester. It will disolve the tape and leave a gooey mess.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting or Punching Panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I drew my panel up in Pro-E and then sent it to a machine shop. Came out
perfect. I imagine a water jet company would also be good.
At 01:11 PM 8/4/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
>Looking for feedback on RV builder experiences with panel cutting or
>punching companies out there in the RV world today... Do you want to share
>your panel experience?
>
>Darrell
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Modeling Clay Product |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
A Modeling Clay Product: 2 pound block, trade name: NSP, Non-Drying
Modeling Clay, "Soft", Sulphur- Free Plasteline, by Chanant. I used this,
probably over-kill, sculptor's clay to give that "professional" RV look to
gear intersection fairings, ha ha. You need less than a pound clay to mold
an intersection.
Masking Tape Ideas: I used masking tape only to hold a couple small filler
wood pieces in place and to restrict clay from innards. I believe not
practical to use tape alone to build up an aerodynamic shape at
fuselage-gear fairing-wheel pants intersections. The plastic plane guys may
use tape for long run intersections, or use lots of post glass filler. One
suggested aluminum window screen to shape 3-D compound curves. I didn't find
this practical for our relatively small and removable intersections. Just
happy to be finishing fourth intersection.
Jack -8 95%
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Brian, do you use duct tape in small strips for creating compound curves? Or
would you use modeling clay?
Randy
> I do builder assistance on the turbine Lancair IVP and currently work on 3
> projects. Duct tape is a common release tape for epoxy but don't try it
> using polyester or vinylester. It will disolve the tape and leave a gooey
> mess.
>
>
> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
> CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
> 101 Caroline Circle
> Hurricane, WV 25526
> 304-562-6800 home
> 304-395-4932 cell
>
> How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
>
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Randy,
A little off topic but how is the project going? I have checked your sight
and not much updated. I know the time is better spent in the shop when you
near completion.
Hope you fly soon,
Bruce Gray
RV8 #81745
Fuse Floor section
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Which clay?
>Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 09:42:58 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
>Fiberglass gurus,
>
>I'm getting ready to do intersection fairings on my plane as well as a
>buddy's and wanted to get some last minute advice on the best clay to use
>for forming. From what I've gathered, and used before, there seem to be
>three options...
>
>#1 Dark brown stuff that I purchased from a craft store and used on my
>RV-8
>(http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Fairings.htm), but it was kind of hard and
>difficult to work with. I suspect there is better stuff out there.
>
>#2 Lighter tan stuff I found in the craft store recently that is much more
>pliable, I think it's called "plasticene" or something similar. Quite a bit
>more expensive but looks like it would be much more workable. Seems to be
>oil based.
>
>#3 Play-Doh. One of our local builders used it for his intersection
>fairings
>and loves it. Of course it's cheap and readily available. Because Play-Doh
>water-based http://www.hasbro.com/playdoh/pl/page.faq/dn/default.cfm would
>it therefore be more of a problem to get released?
>
>In addition to upper & lower intersection fairings on two planes I also
>need
>to make an empennage intersection fairing from scratch for my RV-3. As you
>can appreciate I'd like to get the best materials and techniques locked in
>before entering fiberglass hell once again.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Randy Lervold
>www.rv-3.com
>www.rv-8.com
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
I have used bondo over clear packing tape and then clear packing tape on top
as a release. Worked good.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Randy Lervold
Subject: RV-List: Re: Modeling...clay.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> Oh gawd, fiberglass hell. You have my condolences.
>
> I used a greyish-green clay from the local art supply store. It's oil
> based and is rather hard, but not too bad when warm. I applied Turtlewax
> as a release agent but really don't think it was necessary. After I
> completed all this clay molding effort, a local long eze builder stopped
> by years ago and said, "Ya know, that's old school. We glass guys just
> use strips of duct tape to blend the contours and form the fairings, and
> you don't need any release agent. Glass won't stick to it."
>
> He's right. It doesn't. I might try this when I venture into the
> composite abyss the next time.
>
> Have fun!
> Brian in Albeqwerky
Ooh, strips of duct tape, sounds worth trying! Anyone tried that? Those eze
guys should know.
Thanks Brian,
Randy
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Battery reading minus? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
I'm not sure it's that "easy" . . . without understanding what you changed .
. . yes no doubt you meter is "hooked up backwards" . . . but did you do
something that has caused other things, or you entire system to be
backwards?????? Without knowing what you did or if things were normal before
you made your change . . . if in doubt find someone who understands DC and
go over the changes with them.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 8/4/05, linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> I think this one is easy. The meter is hooked up backwards. DC (which
> is what our batteries and electrical system prefer) are polarity
> sensitive. The "+" terminal is the hot side and the "-" terminal is
> ground in "negative ground" systems. There are "positive ground"
> systems also but are disappearing along with dinosaurs.
>
> For your problem, you have probably hooked the "+" wire from the meter
> to ground and the "-" wire to the DC buss (which is where the battery
> ties to the circuit breakers etc.
> Hope this helps!
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
> >
> >
> > Hi:
> >
> > I have being re-arranging, the wiring on the panel, and all of the
> sudden
> >when testing battery, it shows a negative value...like (- 12.40)
> >
> > A word comes to mind, reverse polarity... I don't know , whatever that
> >means..
> >
> >I have checked most of the ground wires, I still have others to go, etc..
> >
> > Any ideas
> >
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >
> >Bert
> >
> >rv6a
> >
> >
> >Do Not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Randy,
Last week at OSH I attended a forum by Sam James (Fiberglass for RVs) and
he said "clear clay" is best . . . I didn't have a pencil so didn't write
down the vendor . . . and am trusting my failing memory!
Sam is easy to contact and very willing to answer questions.
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/
Good Luck,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Bldr SE Iowa
On 8/4/05, Randy Lervold <randy@romeolima.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
> Fiberglass gurus,
>
> I'm getting ready to do intersection fairings on my plane as well as a
> buddy's and wanted to get some last minute advice on the best clay to use
> for forming. From what I've gathered, and used before, there seem to be
> three options...
>
> #1 Dark brown stuff that I purchased from a craft store and used on my
> RV-8
> (http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Fairings.htm), but it was kind of hard and
> difficult to work with. I suspect there is better stuff out there.
>
> #2 Lighter tan stuff I found in the craft store recently that is much more
> pliable, I think it's called "plasticene" or something similar. Quite a
> bit
> more expensive but looks like it would be much more workable. Seems to be
> oil based.
>
> #3 Play-Doh. One of our local builders used it for his intersection
> fairings
> and loves it. Of course it's cheap and readily available. Because Play-Doh
> water-based http://www.hasbro.com/playdoh/pl/page.faq/dn/default.cfm would
> it therefore be more of a problem to get released?
>
> In addition to upper & lower intersection fairings on two planes I also
> need
> to make an empennage intersection fairing from scratch for my RV-3. As you
> can appreciate I'd like to get the best materials and techniques locked in
> before entering fiberglass hell once again.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com <http://www.rv-3.com>
> www.rv-8.com <http://www.rv-8.com>
>
>
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Reprimand 101: This is an RV list. Try to keep the focus on RVs. Shame,
shame. Good observation Vince.
None the less, Remember, Buffing down an RV is a lot easier than a big dirty
Bonanza. Does she have sisters?
do not archive.
Indiana Larry, RV7
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
>
>
> http://www.airventure.org/2005/gallery/images/sun24/detailing.jpg Do
> you think that the photographer even noticed the Bonanza?
>
> Vince Frazier
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
Randy, I do composites every day. I've made my fair share of mistakes and thrown
away enought stuff to build a small composite airframe. What you decide to use
to form the part is personal preference. Whats more important is the cloth
you use for a given application. Feel free to call me if you want to talk things
over.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cutting or Punching Panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 08/04/2005 2:59:25 PM Central Standard Time,
lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com writes:
Do you want to share your panel experience?
>>>>>
Glad to- I used Steve Davis in Memphis and the results were most excellent,
IMHO- go to:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5096
then click "next entry>>" at the top of each page for the whole story.
Highly recommended and no commision- just a happy customer!
Mark Phillips -6A, 215 hours
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Since the question was about clay .... this reply may not be
appropriate. You could also build up the area with blue foam, sand to
shape and just lay the glass on it, leaving a way to 'split' the
buildup. Then you can use gasoline to melt the foam.
Linn
Tim Bryan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>
>I have used bondo over clear packing tape and then clear packing tape on top
>as a release. Worked good.
>
>Tim
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Randy Lervold
>Date: 08/04/05 10:41:33
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Modeling...clay.
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
>
>
>>Oh gawd, fiberglass hell. You have my condolences.
>>
>>I used a greyish-green clay from the local art supply store. It's oil
>>based and is rather hard, but not too bad when warm. I applied Turtlewax
>>as a release agent but really don't think it was necessary. After I
>>completed all this clay molding effort, a local long eze builder stopped
>>by years ago and said, "Ya know, that's old school. We glass guys just
>>use strips of duct tape to blend the contours and form the fairings, and
>>you don't need any release agent. Glass won't stick to it."
>>
>>He's right. It doesn't. I might try this when I venture into the
>>composite abyss the next time.
>>
>>Have fun!
>>Brian in Albeqwerky
>>
>>
>
>
>Ooh, strips of duct tape, sounds worth trying! Anyone tried that? Those eze
>guys should know.
>
>Thanks Brian,
>Randy
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Sealer for canopy skirts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I used Lexel from the local home store. So far so good....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of N67BT@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 1:54 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Sealer for canopy skirts
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
>
> Hi folks,
>
> Can someone tell me what material is being used for a seal
> between the canopy Plexi and the skirts and where to obtain
> it? Van's said they use a bead of window sealer.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Trumpfheller
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 41
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
3 years ago I faced the same decision. I demoed the 9A at Vans and chose it for
the following reasons:
1) I've taken some aerobatic lessons and was not interested in that aspect of flight
as I was airsick prone!
2) My objective was to obtain a solid cross-country machine and I believed the
9A could have an edge in this flight area. For further insight talk to the Van's
demo pilots who fly all their designs back and forth across the US to airshows
every year.
3) The 9A was designed to fly efficiently with a wider range of powerplants than
the 7, from the economical O-235 (115hp) to the 160hp O-320, giving you more
options when choosing an engine.
4) My goal was to build it as light as practical without compromising safety.
My fixed pitch standard O-320 came in at 1064#, unpainted.
5) The big tail impressed me. Again with the prospect of stability and rudder
authority.
6) The 2/3rds span slotted flaps in the 9 yield a 44mph stall speed with ample
prestall warning, which agrees well with Van's numbers.
7) The power off sink rate is 500 fpm, about 1/2 that of the 6 or 7 which show
about 1000 fpm. This could be the crucial difference in surviving an off-field
landing over rough country.
Negatives-
There really aren't any that matter. The 9 carries 36g fuel while the 7 can handle
42g
The 9 is rated at +4.4 -2g while the 7 is +6 -4g. Thus there is built greater
margin of safety when flying at max cruise and encounter severe turbulence or
in recovery from "unusual attitudes". This also results in a lower maneuver speed
in the 9 versus the 7.
My limited flight experience with the 7 revealed that stick forces are very light
at cruise speeds. You just think about the turn and it happens. The 9 is
also very light but gives noticeably more feedback. My feeling was that if I
swatted a bug or sneezed in the 7 I could end up inverted before I knew what happened,
while the 9 doesn't give that impression.
Caveat - My total airtime in my 9A is a little over 8 hours which isn't a lot
of time in a variety of conditions on which to base an impression. So take this
with a grain of salt. There are many listers who have flown both designs and
can amplify these impressions and add their own experiences.
Obviously the ideal thing is to fly both designs and choose the one that best suits
your needs. You can't go wrong with either. And I wouldn't worry much about
relative resale since 9A's will always be scarce versus the 7A and my guess
is that the 9A's reputation will grow as more people have an opportunity to
fly it long distances.
Mike Holland
N 192MH
8 of 40 hours flown
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