---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 08/08/05: 40 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:05 AM - Re: Riveting while pregnant? (not processed: message from valid local sender) (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com) 2. 05:09 AM - Throttle / exhaust clearance (Glen Matejcek) 3. 06:30 AM - Re: oil breather ideas (Ken Dominy) 4. 07:12 AM - EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out (Valovich, Paul) 5. 07:25 AM - RV-8 wings wanted (Stephanie Marshall) 6. 07:59 AM - Re: RV8 Canopy Stop (Crosley, Rich) 7. 08:00 AM - Re: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 8. 08:25 AM - RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar (Joseph Larson) 9. 08:26 AM - Re: oil breather ideas (Vic Jacko) 10. 08:38 AM - Plexiglass repair (Travis Hamblen) 11. 09:01 AM - Re: oil breather ideas (Vincent Osburn) 12. 09:08 AM - Re: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar (Denis Walsh) 13. 09:21 AM - Re: Plexiglass repair (Terry Watson) 14. 09:29 AM - Re: Plexiglass repair (Scott Bilinski) 15. 09:34 AM - 0-320-H2AD on Ebay (Marty) 16. 09:38 AM - Re: RV8 Canopy Stop (JAMES BOWEN) 17. 09:47 AM - Re: RV-8 wings wanted (Marty) 18. 09:53 AM - Re: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 19. 10:09 AM - Re: oil breather ideas (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 20. 10:21 AM - Re: oil breather ideas (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 21. 10:30 AM - Heat Shields (Jerry2DT@aol.com) 22. 10:44 AM - Re: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar (Joseph Larson) 23. 11:24 AM - Re: RV-8 wings wanted (Stephanie Marshall) 24. 01:55 PM - RV-8 Down () 25. 02:33 PM - Engine hick up at a bad time (Jeff Dowling) 26. 03:19 PM - Re: Engine hick up at a bad time (Mickey Coggins) 27. 03:28 PM - Re: Engine hick up at a bad time (Scott Bilinski) 28. 04:39 PM - Re: Engine hick up at a bad time (Alex Peterson) 29. 05:23 PM - Center bulkhead question (charlie heathco) 30. 05:35 PM - Air Oil separator (charlie heathco) 31. 06:05 PM - Re: Center bulkhead question (Ron Lee) 32. 06:08 PM - Re: Center bulkhead question (D.Bristol) 33. 06:10 PM - Re: Center bulkhead question (sportav8r@aol.com) 34. 06:18 PM - Re: Center bulkhead question (Tim Bryan) 35. 07:41 PM - Re: Center bulkhead question (Rquinn1@aol.com) 36. 07:43 PM - Air Oil Separator (jim & terri truitt) 37. 09:04 PM - Re: Air Oil separator (Jim Cimino) 38. 10:24 PM - Re: Randy Simpson at Airtime (HCRV6@aol.com) 39. 10:38 PM - Re: Center bulkhead question (Jim Jewell) 40. 10:50 PM - Re: Air Oil separator (HCRV6@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:05:06 AM PST US From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com Subject: RE: RV-List: Riveting while pregnant? (not processed: message from valid local sender) --> RV-List message posted by: I am not a doctor but physics alone dictates that noise being vibrations in the air will be transmitted to the child. Whether this can harm the child or not, I can't say - but I would not take the risk, riveting can get into pretty high decibels. Anyway, she can help you do lots of other things besides holding the bucking bar. And she will be grateful that you should be so concerned as to the wellbeing of your forthcoming new member of the family. Michle > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson > Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 2:40 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com; rv7and7a@yahoogroups.com; socal- > rvlist@yahoogroups.com > Subject: RV-List: Riveting while pregnant? (not processed: message from > valid local sender) > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" > > Okay, weird question... my wife is 21 weeks pregnant. Is it okay for her > to help me in riveting the wings? I could not find any information on > the internet if the noise or vibrations would hurt the baby... anyone have > some advice? someone on this list must be an OB or Doctor or > asked this question before... > > - Matt > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:09:01 AM PST US From: "Glen Matejcek" Subject: RV-List: Throttle / exhaust clearance --> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" Thanks to all for the input. BTW, I'll be off line for 2-3 weeks for a training event. Glen Matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:30:08 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: oil breather ideas From: "Ken Dominy" --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Dominy" Andy,I bought an M20 air/oil separator and installed in on the O360 in my Mooney. It is installed with a Y welded into the #4 cyl oil return tube as per the instructions. I am not sure it is working properly, because I still get some oil out of the vent line. I have not uninstalled it, but have returned to the procedure of keeping the oil level at 6 quarts, and that seems to work to minimize the oil on the belly. I have two fellow RVers that made their own units, and seem to be pleased with them. Ken DominyRV8 in progress--- On Sun 08/07, Aircraft Technical Book Company winterland@rkymtnhi.com wrote:From: Aircraft Technical Book Company [mailto: winterland@rkymtnhi.com]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 17:24:33 -0600Subject: RV-List: oil breather ideas-- RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" When I built my 6A , an experienced AP suggested that I weld a stainless pipe into the exhaust pipe, and then run the oil breather tube into the pipe. The idea was that oil from the breather port drain into the exhaust pipe and burn up with the hot exhaust gasses in the pipe thus keeping the belly nice and clean.After a couple hundred hours, I don't think it works very well. Add to that another person who today suggested that the inlet to the exhaust is welded too far from the tip of the pipe (about 15"). He said that far upstream, high pressures inside the pipe are creating backpressures into the breather tube, pressurizing the engine and causing oil seepage from all around the engine. (another annoying problem from the beginning). He said to be effective the drain pipe must insert into the exhaust pipe no more than 2-3" from the tip. (by which point the exhaust gasses are cooler still and even less likely to burn up and oil fumes, negating further the benefit of a nice clean belly.So, unless someone here can enlighten me with some forgotten pearl of wisdom, I'm going to cut off the drain pipe, ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:12:16 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out From: "Valovich, Paul" --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" This is one of those cases where the problem (?) is too many options! Anyone have any comments on the BMA EFIS Light with autopilot? Paul Valovich Booger RV-8A QB ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:25:52 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted From: "Stephanie Marshall" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" We are looking for a pair of RV-8 wings, does anyone have a pair they would like to sell or do you know of anyone that might? Thanks, Stephanie www.rv-8a.4t.com ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:59:40 AM PST US From: "Crosley, Rich" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Stop --> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" I like the Bill Davis plunger. I had not seen the cam stop but I see some possible problems. To get the thing to catch you have to slide the canopy aft past the catch slide it forward and reverse direction before the cam falls off the front of the catch. The plunger is positive and allows me to open the canopy as I pull off the runway and slide it open without all that looking to see were the cam is. A benefit on summer so-cal days. If I have a simple passenger that can't remember what I told them on preflight I can pull the plunger out and lock it open with a piece of cut rubber tubing. I'm not sure I'd call the cam devise is an "upgrade". But what ever works. Rich Crosley N948RC ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:00:04 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" That's not just a loaded question, it's a double barrel shotgun. :-) Depends on what your mission profile looks like. For IFR I wouldn't do it. For VFR, you could do much worse. I'm still looking at a G3 Lite for a backup instrument in my IFR -10. Either way I would do TruTrak or Trio for autopilot. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Wing ribs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul Subject: RV-List: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" This is one of those cases where the problem (?) is too many options! Anyone have any comments on the BMA EFIS Light with autopilot? Paul Valovich Booger RV-8A QB ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:25:07 AM PST US From: Joseph Larson Subject: RV-List: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar --> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson I want to verify something. Some of the ribs rivet to the main spar in areas where you can't get to front side of the spar (because the spar has two webs in the rootmost area of the wing). I presume I'm supposed to use pulled rivets in these locations. I don't see how else I'm supposed to do it. -Joe ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:26:24 AM PST US From: "Vic Jacko" Subject: Re: RV-List: oil breather ideas --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" Mark, I have the same separator but without the mods. Where on the engine ( Lyc 0-320) do you connect the drain off of the oil to return to the crankcase? Thanks, Vic ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: oil breather ideas > --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com > > In a message dated 08/07/2005 5:29:20 PM Central Standard Time, > winterland@rkymtnhi.com writes: > To that end, looking through the Aircraft Spruce catalog, I see 8 > different > air-oil separators from $40 to $400. Can anybody recommend or speak about > any of them. >>>>> > > Take a look at: > > http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5172 > > and click on "next entry>>" at top of page for next three entries. You > can > also click on the fotos for bit better foto. This has worked great on my > plane > for 215 hours so far... > > Mark Phillips > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:38:24 AM PST US From: "Travis Hamblen" Subject: RV-List: Plexiglass repair --> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" Last night I broke off a small piece of my canopy. The piece is from the left bottom forward most 90 degree edge of the canopy. The chard that broke off is about 1.5" x 0.5" and luckily I found the piece and it fits perfectly back onto the canopy. Half of it will be covered by the canopy skirt, so most of the repair won't even be visible. I have a couple questions about repairing this. I have read several posts that claim that Weld-On 3 is the best product to use for this type of repair. Can anyone advise as to how well this product will do for gluing a small piece back on? Second, if I do use this does anyone have any recommendations on how to hold the piece in place while the glue is curing? I was thinking that I could use a clamp, but would have to clamp the top half of the piece and only glue he bottom half of the piece. Then I could come back a day or two later and glue the top half where the clamp was previously. I am just afraid that the clamp would get glued into place. ANY advice is GREATLY appreciated! Travis RV-7A finishing the finishing kit! -- ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:01:13 AM PST US From: "Vincent Osburn" Subject: RE: RV-List: oil breather ideas --> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Osburn" I ended up purchasing an M20 separator from Aircraft Spruce in desperation when their "home builders" separator was on back order for over 2 months. I was planning a 4000 plus mile trip and wanted something that was really going to work. I was getting a significant amount of oil out the breather tube after any flight over 45 min or so. The oil ran from the firewall and would streak clear back to the tail after more than about 2 hours time. It might have only been a teaspoon or tablespoon full but it was annoying. Some would say that there is something wrong with the engine to get that much oil out but my compressions have always been very good and I have put 450 hours on the engine since then. Would someone tell me my engine was shot 450 hours ago? I guess it could blow anytime but so far it hasn't. I welded a stub on to the left rear valve cover and allow the collected oil to return to the engine. I didn't think of collecting the oil in a separate vessel to drain periodically as some suggest. I may get up the motivation to do mine that way someday as it seems like a good idea. Anyhow the M20 stopped all oil from coming out of the breather instantly and I had no oil on the belly for the next 25 hours even if I put 8 quarts in. About this time (after the long trip) I discovered a significant oil leak and found it was coming from two different places on the M20 unit. One leak, a pin hole at the center of a weld in the bottom cap and the other a poor weld at the oil return stub. Anyway I welded them up and it has worked fine since. My M20 has worked well, at least for me, but sure is expensive. They are very small, simple and light compared to some I've seen. Seeing how they are made I wouldn't hesitate to make my own knowing what I know now. The RJM-AERO unit seems to be an exact copy of an M-20 for a little less. I can't imagine spending much over ten or twenty dollars to make one if you can weld. Realizing how it works by simply providing surface area to collect and trap the oil vapors, I can picture any number of ways one could be made. I saw one recently that was a vented 1 pint paint can filled with fibrous material to provide area to collect the vapors. Very light, simple and extremely cheap to make. Perhaps a couple of bucks? If you made them yourself you could afford to simply toss it at every oil change. Dah, wish I would have thought of it but I ain't smart enough. do not archive > [Original Message] > From: Aircraft Technical Book Company > To: > Date: 8/7/2005 4:24:48 PM > Subject: RV-List: oil breather ideas > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" > > > When I built my 6A , an experienced A&P suggested that I weld a stainless > pipe into the exhaust pipe, and then run the oil breather tube into the > pipe. The idea was that oil from the breather port drain into the exhaust > pipe and burn up with the hot exhaust gasses in the pipe thus keeping the > belly nice and clean. > > After a couple hundred hours, I don't think it works very well. Add to > that another person who today suggested that the inlet to the exhaust is > welded too far from the tip of the pipe (about 15"). He said that far > upstream, high pressures inside the pipe are creating backpressures into the > breather tube, pressurizing the engine and causing oil seepage from all > around the engine. (another annoying problem from the beginning). He said > to be effective the drain pipe must insert into the exhaust pipe no more > than 2-3" from the tip. (by which point the exhaust gasses are cooler still > and even less likely to burn up and oil fumes, negating further the benefit > of a nice clean belly. > > So, unless someone here can enlighten me with some forgotten pearl of > wisdom, I'm going to cut off the drain pipe, weld up the hole in the tail > pipe, and put in some more conventional breather system. > > To that end, looking through the Aircraft Spruce catalog, I see 8 different > air-oil separators from $40 to $400. Can anybody recommend or speak about > any of them. One called a Slime Fighter is claimed to be popular on RVs, > but from the picture of it, I don't see how it works or where it deposits > the oil. Others talk about a catch can that fills with oil and needs to be > drained periodically. How periodically? > > Andy > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:08:35 AM PST US From: Denis Walsh Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh Me too. Mine's been holding up ok for the past 10 years (eight flying) Denis Walsh On Aug 8, 2005, at 9:25 AM, Joseph Larson wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson > > I want to verify something. > > Some of the ribs rivet to the main spar in areas where you can't get > to front side of the spar (because the spar has two webs in the > rootmost area of the wing). I presume I'm supposed to use pulled > rivets in these locations. I don't see how else I'm supposed to do > it. > > -Joe > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:21:35 AM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Plexiglass repair --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Travis, Here is a reference to a company that sells various plastic supplies and their reference chart to Weldon plastic cements. It would appear that some of these are fast-acting enough that you could hold the piece in place with your hands until it was strong enough to release. Terry http://www.rplastics.com/weldonguide.html --> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" Last night I broke off a small piece of my canopy. The piece is from the left bottom forward most 90 degree edge of the canopy. The chard that broke off is about 1.5" x 0.5" and luckily I found the piece and it fits perfectly back onto the canopy. Half of it will be covered by the canopy skirt, so most of the repair won't even be visible. I have a couple questions about repairing this. I have read several posts that claim that Weld-On 3 is the best product to use for this type of repair. Can anyone advise as to how well this product will do for gluing a small piece back on? Second, if I do use this does anyone have any recommendations on how to hold the piece in place while the glue is curing? I was thinking that I could use a clamp, but would have to clamp the top half of the piece and only glue he bottom half of the piece. Then I could come back a day or two later and glue the top half where the clamp was previously. I am just afraid that the clamp would get glued into place. ANY advice is GREATLY appreciated! Travis RV-7A finishing the finishing kit! -- ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:29:22 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Plexiglass repair --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Weld-on-3 is Mythelenecloride (spelling) which actually melts the parts back together. In your case it is best applied with a very fine tip needle. Anywhere this stuff touches the plastic it will melt slightly. Since Weld-on 3 is so thin it runs very easy, so maybe after bonding the piece back in place you might want to get one of those scratch kits and buff out any smudges. Everything you need is available at you local plastics shop. At 08:37 AM 8/8/2005 -0700, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" > >Last night I broke off a small piece of my canopy. The piece is from the >left bottom forward most 90 degree edge of the canopy. The chard that broke >off is about 1.5" x 0.5" and luckily I found the piece and it fits perfectly >back onto the canopy. Half of it will be covered by the canopy skirt, so >most of the repair won't even be visible. I have a couple questions about >repairing this. I have read several posts that claim that Weld-On 3 is the >best product to use for this type of repair. Can anyone advise as to how >well this product will do for gluing a small piece back on? Second, if I do >use this does anyone have any recommendations on how to hold the piece in >place while the glue is curing? I was thinking that I could use a clamp, >but would have to clamp the top half of the piece and only glue he bottom >half of the piece. Then I could come back a day or two later and glue the >top half where the clamp was previously. I am just afraid that the clamp >would get glued into place. ANY advice is GREATLY appreciated! > >Travis >RV-7A finishing the finishing kit! > >-- > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:34:14 AM PST US From: "Marty" Subject: RV-List: 0-320-H2AD on Ebay --> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" Found this while browsing, any 9 builders out there take a look. Don't know anything about it, except there it is. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lycoming-Engine-0-320_W0QQcmdZViewItemQ QcategoryZ26437QQitemZ4566985098QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW if the link breaks, just search for item number 4566985098 ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:38:44 AM PST US From: "JAMES BOWEN" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Stop --> RV-List message posted by: "JAMES BOWEN" Mickey Coggins, Hello. I am an RV-8 builder in Washington State. I have used your web sight several times. Question, what wheel pants brackets are you using? I have the same Grove gear as you. (Sam James wheel pants.) Great web sight, thanks in advance for your time. Jim Bowen RV-8 QB 81786 >From: "Jim Cimino" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Stop >Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 12:53:07 -0400 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" > >Here's the link: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/rv8-latch.html I >don't use a latch, I have no problem reaching back to the canopy when >flying >solo and don't want to have to fool with a latch when I have someone in the >back. >Jim > >Jim Cimino >N7TL >RV-8 S/N 80039 >150+ Hours >http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Mickey Coggins" >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Stop > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins > > > > Hi Richard, > > > > I used to use the plunger, but I just upgraded to a > > different system, which I feel is much better. > > Here is a link to some photos. You should probably > > buy one of these, and give the plunger to your > > friend. If for some reason he *really* wants the > > plunger, and you also keep yours, I'll be happy to > > send mine to him. Just send me an address. > > > > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=200508071814513 > > > > Best regards, > > Mickey > > > > > > Richard Crosley wrote: > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Crosley" > >> > >> > >> I purchased a very neat little plunger device to holds the canopy > >> have way open when flying solo. A fellow RV8 driver asked me where I > >> got it so he could buy one and I can't locate any info in all my > >> junk. Does anyone have a source? It's the spring loaded plunger > >> that bolts to the canopy rail. > >> > >> Rich Crosley N948RC > >> > > > > > > -- > > Mickey Coggins > > http://www.rv8.ch/ > > #82007 finishing > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:47:01 AM PST US From: "Marty" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted --> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" Keep an eye on www.barnstormers.com, they occasionally have kits and parts for sale. On the left hand side click on Experimental, then down near the bottom is Vans RV's. You guys must be busy, you haven't had time to update your site lately. Keep pounding those rivets! Marty in Indiana RV-8A preview plans in hand, itching to build. |-----Original Message----- |From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- |server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie Marshall |Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 9:25 AM |To: rv-list@matronics.com |Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted | |--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" | | |We are looking for a pair of RV-8 wings, does anyone have a pair they |would like to sell or do you know of anyone that might? | |Thanks, |Stephanie |www.rv-8a.4t.com | | | | | ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 09:53:05 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 8/8/05 10:26:46 AM Central Daylight Time, jpl@showpage.org writes: > I presume I'm supposed to use pulled > rivets in these locations. I don't see how else I'm supposed to do it. >>>> Hi Joe- See dwg. 20, upper left section with note under "TOP VIEWS (SECTION)" where it calls out LP4-3 rivets at the stations for these ribs. Sometimes the harder ya look at these things, the harder it is to find stuff- hope the newer kits are better... Mark ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 10:09:26 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: oil breather ideas --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 8/8/05 10:27:55 AM Central Daylight Time, vicwj@earthlink.net writes: > do you connect the drain off of the oil to return to the > crankcase? >>>> Returning the oil to the crankcase has been debated here quite a bit- general consensus is to NOT allow this oil back in- it is contaminated with lots of nastiness such as acids that are rejected by our engines via the vent- see: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5173 The length of rubber hose (3/8", IIRC) connects to the small tube welded to the bottom of the separator. The brass drain cock on the end of the rubber hose in the foto is used to drain at oil changes- I usually get about 2 or 3 tbsp of rejected lubricant, barely enough to fill the drain hose. Go to: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5174 to see where it is strapped to the bottom of the engine mount tube under the oil filter. I've never seen any water in this oil, so it is obviously passing out the separator exit tube as vapor. At 200 hours I inspected the pot scrubbers to see if they were getting any clogs, but they looked good as new, just oily. Also see: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5261 Mark ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 10:21:58 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: oil breather ideas --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com As another data point I'll add that on my low-compression O-320 (E3D) that I normally add oil only after the level passes the 6 qt mark, and never fill above 7, and I have never had to add more than one quart between 45-50 hour oil changes. The engine has about 1070 TT with new rings & bearings installed at about 850 hours (before I got it) and I keep the oil temps between 180-185 degrees as indicated on my EIS4000 monitor. Using Phillips XC 20W50 & Champion spin-on filter... (I'm theorizing that higher compression/higher time engines may generate more blow-by) Mark Phillips ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 10:30:58 AM PST US From: Jerry2DT@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Heat Shields --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com I'm pretty sure Van's current heatshields are stainless @ $11 each (!)... I went to the AV dept. at Target and bought some inexpensive stainless cookware, which provides enough material to make any number of them. NAPA or HD provide the clamps. It would help if you have a small metal brake like the ones Harbor Freight sells. Jerry Cochran Wilsonville, OR In a message dated 8/8/2005 12:03:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes: From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Throttle / exhaust clearance --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" The heat shields I got from Van's are aluminum. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 10:44:01 AM PST US From: Joseph Larson Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar --> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson Thanks, guys. It just seemed wrong to use pop rivets, and I'm still getting back into the swing of building after almost a 4-year break due to moving then building a new garage AKA hangar to build the plane in. -Joe On Aug 8, 2005, at 11:52 AM, Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com > > In a message dated 8/8/05 10:26:46 AM Central Daylight Time, > jpl@showpage.org > writes: > > >> I presume I'm supposed to use pulled >> rivets in these locations. I don't see how else I'm supposed to >> do it. >> > > >>>>> >>>>> > > Hi Joe- > > See dwg. 20, upper left section with note under "TOP VIEWS > (SECTION)" where > it calls out LP4-3 rivets at the stations for these ribs. > Sometimes the harder > ya look at these things, the harder it is to find stuff- hope the > newer kits > are better... > > Mark > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 11:24:44 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted From: "Stephanie Marshall" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" You caught me!! Baron has been doing a lot of work during the day when I am at work, so it is hard to get any photos except for the finished ones. grrrrrrrr.......... oh well on the bright side he is FLYING (in the air and with the RV) :~) I have some photos, I just haven't had time lately to get the site updated. Since we just moved to Oklahoma last year this is our first full summer and I and our two German Shepherds have all gotten some type of allergy. I have just been having a HORRIBLE summer so the website has unfortunately taken a back seat to all the other stuff. Like the A/C that is leaking water into our master closet, I am going to have to rip up the carpet and pad tonight there is so much water in there. Our landlord hasn't gotten back to us on WHEN the repair guy is coming over, I can't wait to own our very own house!! We worked on the first rudder this weekend so I will have some good pictures of that! Cheers, Stephanie www.rv-8a.4t.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marty Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted --> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" Keep an eye on www.barnstormers.com, they occasionally have kits and parts for sale. On the left hand side click on Experimental, then down near the bottom is Vans RV's. You guys must be busy, you haven't had time to update your site lately. Keep pounding those rivets! Marty in Indiana RV-8A preview plans in hand, itching to build. |-----Original Message----- |From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- |server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie Marshall |Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 9:25 AM |To: rv-list@matronics.com |Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted | |--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" | | |We are looking for a pair of RV-8 wings, does anyone have a pair they |would like to sell or do you know of anyone that might? | |Thanks, |Stephanie |www.rv-8a.4t.com | | | | | ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 01:55:34 PM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Down --> RV-List message posted by: Denver TV reported an RV-8 at FNL (Fort Collins/Loveland, CO) down in a field 1,500-ft off the runway with two aboard. One reported fatal, one in serious condition. No idea of how it happened. Plane appeared in reasonable shape on TV, on its belly, wings attached. Next shot showed it on a crane being lifted onto a trailer for transport. I have no other info and only the TV report, always open to question. TV reported passenger, son-in-law of pilot was the fatality. Pilot in hospital. Newspaper, Denver Post, reports today pilot's name was William F. Sheel. Fatality was named Jay Schneider. Event happened about 9:15AM Sunday. Sad, sad. John ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 02:33:46 PM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: RV-List: Engine hick up at a bad time --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's class B at night over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my first engine hick up. Once clear of the real low part of the class B, I started a climb with a decent pull (less than 2 g's though) when she cough'd. Just a quick little cough but it definitely got my attention. I quickly released the pressure and she returned to running smoothly. . I put the b.p. on and flew very smoothly the rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It never repeated. I was burning out of the left tank which has a flop tube. It's never done that before in over 230 hours and I havent had a chance to check things out. Ive got an IO-360, dual mags and a Bendix injector. I've done plenty of aerobatics and have never had a problem. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 235 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 03:19:17 PM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine hick up at a bad time --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi Shemp, Good to meet you at OSH. I'm sure you've already eliminated these, but here is what I would look at: Possible water in the fuel? Did you fill up in your usual place? Any rain on the aircraft lately? What kind of filters do you run? The holes in the flop tube pickup are quite a bit bigger than the regular pickup, as you probably recall. More junk could get in there if the fuel was dirty. Those kinds of problems are not fun, particularly at night. Best regards, Mickey > There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's > class B at night over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my > first engine hick up. Once clear of the real low part of the class > B, I started a climb with a decent pull (less than 2 g's though) > when she cough'd. Just a quick little cough but it definitely got my > attention. I quickly released the pressure and she returned to > running smoothly. . I put the b.p. on and flew very smoothly the > rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It never repeated. I was burning > out of the left tank which has a flop tube. It's never done that > before in over 230 hours and I havent had a chance to check things > out. Ive got an IO-360, dual mags and a Bendix injector. I've done > plenty of aerobatics and have never had a problem. > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 235 hours Chicago/Louisville > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 03:28:08 PM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine hick up at a bad time --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I have had this exact same attention getter. One little hick-up that lasted maybe 2/10's of a second, and has never done it since. This was also on a injected engine and at the time the OAT was 94F and I was climbing. Plane has AFP injection with dual EI so I am sure it was fuel related. At 04:32 PM 8/8/2005 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" > >There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's class B >at night over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my first engine >hick up. Once clear of the real low part of the class B, I started a >climb with a decent pull (less than 2 g's though) when she cough'd. Just >a quick little cough but it definitely got my attention. I quickly >released the pressure and she returned to running smoothly. . I put the >b.p. on and flew very smoothly the rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It >never repeated. I was burning out of the left tank which has a flop >tube. It's never done that before in over 230 hours and I havent had a >chance to check things out. Ive got an IO-360, dual mags and a Bendix >injector. I've done plenty of aerobatics and have never had a problem. > >Shemp/Jeff Dowling >RV-6A, N915JD >235 hours >Chicago/Louisville > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 04:39:33 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine hick up at a bad time --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" > > > There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's class B > at night over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my first engine > hick up. Once clear of the real low part of the class B, I started a > climb with a decent pull (less than 2 g's though) when she cough'd. Just > a quick little cough but it definitely got my attention. I quickly > released the pressure and she returned to running smoothly. . I put the > b.p. on and flew very smoothly the rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It > never repeated. I was burning out of the left tank which has a flop tube. > It's never done that before in over 230 hours and I havent had a chance to > check things out. Ive got an IO-360, dual mags and a Bendix injector. > I've done plenty of aerobatics and have never had a problem. > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > RV-6A, N915JD > 235 hours > Chicago/Louisville Jeff, it could be that you were running right on the lean edge, and the sudden extra g was just enough to reduce fuel flow to the lean misfire point. The fuel has to travel a couple feet up from the servo to the injectors, and the extra g's will reduce the flow slightly. It should be relatively easy to try again, just set the mixture just at the point where it wants to run rough, then pull some g's. Alex Peterson RV6A N66AP 651 hours Maple Grove, MN ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 05:23:25 PM PST US From: "charlie heathco" Subject: RV-List: Center bulkhead question autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2 --> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be comming until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I want to leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all the screws back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is, anyone know of a reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie heathco Boerne ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 05:35:11 PM PST US From: "charlie heathco" Subject: RV-List: Air Oil separator autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2 --> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" Been following the coments re oil drip line placement and air/oil separators. I think puting the drip line into the exaust is a bad idea, and when I was going to put an oil air separator on my cherokee about a year ago, I asked for input from cherokee pilots, and no one had anything good to say about any of the brands, concensus was that they just dont work as advertized. charlie heathco ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 06:05:07 PM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee Since there may be some rigidity due to its presence I would reinstall it and put several screws in strategic places. This also ensures that nothing that jam that critical pitch linkage. It only takes a few minutes to do this. Ron Lee ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 06:08:13 PM PST US From: "D.Bristol" Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question --> RV-List message posted by: "D.Bristol" I believe that panel is structural. Dave -6 So Cal charlie heathco wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" > >I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be comming until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I want to leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all the screws back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is, anyone know of a reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie heathco Boerne > > > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 06:10:38 PM PST US From: sportav8r@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question --> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com Charlie: I don't think that panel is strictly structural, but it is all that's between your elevator bellcrank and whatever loose objects might be floating around in your cockpit during maneuvers. Put it back in using every third screw and be safe(r). Besides, your shoulder belts won't be properly supported without it. -Bill B also awaiting Trio EZ Pilot from SafeAir1 this week :-) -----Original Message----- From: charlie heathco Subject: RV-List: Center bulkhead question --> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be comming until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I want to leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all the screws back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is, anyone know of a reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie heathco Boerne ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 06:18:28 PM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" in the -6 manual it does say it is structural. I would not fly without it. Not sure about leaving some screws out. Tim -------Original Message------- From: sportav8r@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question --> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com Charlie: I don't think that panel is strictly structural, but it is all that's between your elevator bellcrank and whatever loose objects might be floating around in your cockpit during maneuvers. Put it back in using every third screw and be safe(r). Besides, your shoulder belts won't be properly supported without it. -Bill B also awaiting Trio EZ Pilot from SafeAir1 this week :-) -----Original Message----- From: charlie heathco Subject: RV-List: Center bulkhead question --> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be comming until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I want to leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all the screws back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is, anyone know of a reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie heathco Boerne ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 07:41:32 PM PST US From: Rquinn1@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question --> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com As I recall Van's instruction book said not to fly without the baggage bulkhead installed. ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 07:43:20 PM PST US From: jim & terri truitt Subject: RV-List: Air Oil Separator --> RV-List message posted by: jim & terri truitt I have have done some limited experimentation with a homemade air/oil separator on my 8A. I think the critical thing may be the volume of the container. I think it needs to be big enough for the vapors to swirl around inside, with a contact media for the oil to condense onto. The other critical point is that both hoses need to be 5/8 inch to ensure breathing without excess velocity. I made one recently that appears to be doing its job so far. I used a 30 oz. square shaped glass jar with a metal screw on lid. It's actually a Martha Stewart food storage jar. I know, no glass FWF. It's padded and strapped down. I like the glass cause I can readily see how much oil has collected in it. I don't really want the condensed blow by oil returning to the sump. I simply put fittings for 5/8 inch hose into the lid. Ran the breather hose down into the jar to about 1 in. from the bottom. Put the metal mesh from a stove top ventilation filter in the jar in a circular pattern so the breather hose goes into the center of it. The second fitting has a hose running from the top of the jar to exit onto the last 2-3 inches of the exhaust pipe. The end of the hose is less than a 1/4 inch from the pipe. The jar is collecting oil and my A/C belly seems to be cleaner. Note that I said "cleaner" not "clean". I don't think any air/oil separator is going to keep the belly 100% clean. I have not personally seen any A/C belly that doesn't get some exhaust stains on it. There's more to what's on the belly than just breather vapors. Nor have I found a way to fully burn what comes out of the hose at the exhaust. The air exiting from the cowl takes the droplets of oil before the exhaust pipe can burn them. The air oil separator seems to decrease the amount of oil going out to the exhaust end so less oil goes onto the belly. FWIW. ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 09:04:43 PM PST US From: "Jim Cimino" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Oil separator Received-SPF: none --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" I have a separator on my RV-8 (M-20) and it works great. I only add about a quart of oil between changes and have almost nothing on the belly of the plane. I clean it off once a year and there is almost nothing there. I have heard all the problems with separators, but I like mine. I have the drain mounted between the two exhaust pipes. Jim Jim Cimino N7TL RV-8 S/N 80039 150+ Hours http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "charlie heathco" Subject: RV-List: Air Oil separator > --> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" > > Been following the coments re oil drip line placement and air/oil > separators. I think puting the drip line into the exaust is a bad idea, > and when I was going to put an oil air separator on my cherokee about a > year ago, I asked for input from cherokee pilots, and no one had anything > good to say about any of the brands, concensus was that they just dont > work as advertized. charlie heathco > > > ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 10:24:37 PM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Randy Simpson at Airtime --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com In a message dated 8/7/05 6:54:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dsvs@comcast.net writes: > Snip>>Randy sent me an e-mail last Friday evening minutes after I sent out > the > final question about where he could be.>>Snip > > Now that it appears that Randy is alive and well I would sure like to buy a > set of his Ti tie downs. If you get an answer please post it to the list. I > suspect that there are a lot of potential buyers out here waiting to see > . Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 115 hours ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 10:38:20 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hello, The several horizontal V shaped bends are there to add considerable rigidity to the second of only two solidly closed off "structural" bulkheads in the hull, the other being the firewall. The baggage area bulkhead is required along with all of it's screws tightened in place if any flight is intended. Some might think the openings at the ends of the bulkhead's V shapes are there for ventilation!?. That function might be of benefit or not but it is not the primary reason for their existence. Structurally speaking, without the bulkhead the fuselage is considerably weakened . Think of the lower half of the mid point of the hull as a box without its ends, it can be collapsed under torsion very easilly. I'm certain that Vans will tell any that will listen "Put it in, tighten it up or don't fly the plane". Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question > --> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com > > As I recall Van's instruction book said not to fly without the baggage > bulkhead installed. > > > ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 10:50:05 PM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Oil separator --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com I bought my air oil separator from Wick's. Sorry I can't give you the part number, I'm at home and my Wicks catalog is at my hangar. It looks very much like an M-20 or Air Wolf style but is experimental. When I bought mine it was about $60 but the last catalog I checked showed it around $90, still a lot less that the certified units and it works great so far, nothing but exhaust stains on the belly. It is filled with aluminum sponge. I have a 12 inch long piece of 3/8 I.D. vinyl tube with a plug in the bottom to catch the liquid goop, oil and whatever, and I empty that tube at every 25 hour oil change. I plan to install a larger receptacle as soon as I find the right thing. Currently considering a lexan brake fluid reservoir. Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 115 hours