Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:07 AM - Oil Separator (Bill Gunn)
2. 06:31 AM - Bulkhead Resposes (charlie heathco)
3. 06:56 AM - Re: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out (Bob C.)
4. 06:56 AM - Re: Engine hick up at a bad time (BELTEDAIR@AOL.COM)
5. 07:24 AM - Re: Center bulkhead question (Mike Robertson)
6. 07:26 AM - Re: Engine hick up at a bad time (larry morgan)
7. 07:55 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue Mountain) (Condon,Philip M.)
8. 08:01 AM - Re: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out (David Leonard)
9. 09:15 AM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue Mountain) (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
10. 09:18 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 08/08/05 ()
11. 09:49 AM - Re: Engine hick up at a bad time (Jeff Dowling)
12. 09:53 AM - Re: Air Oil separator (Jeff Dowling)
13. 11:07 AM - Garmin Install Kits For Sale (Jack Loflin)
14. 11:16 AM - Re: Air Oil Separator (Chris W)
15. 11:16 AM - Re: RV-8 wings wanted (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
16. 11:44 AM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue Mountain) (Bob C.)
17. 11:45 AM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue Mountain) (Bob C.)
18. 11:55 AM - Gear leg fairing installation 6A (Dale Ensing)
19. 12:32 PM - Annual inspection question - magneto points (Stephen J. Soule)
20. 01:08 PM - Initials (flynlow)
21. 01:42 PM - Re: Initials (Ken Dominy)
22. 01:59 PM - Re:Initials (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
23. 02:02 PM - Re: Initials (Walter Tondu)
24. 02:10 PM - Re: Initials (Joseph Larson)
25. 02:12 PM - Re: Initials (Sportypilot)
26. 02:18 PM - cables and firewall eyeballs (alan_products)
27. 02:18 PM - Re: Initials (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
28. 02:39 PM - Re: Initials (Larry Pardue)
29. 02:47 PM - Re: Annual inspection question - magneto points (linn walters)
30. 02:47 PM - Re: cables and firewall eyeballs (Dan Checkoway)
31. 02:51 PM - Lycoming 0-360 A4M , RV-8 (Bill Hood)
32. 03:09 PM - Re: Initials (Ron Lee)
33. 03:14 PM - Re: Initials (Darrell Reiley)
34. 03:25 PM - Re: Initials (Hull, Don)
35. 03:42 PM - Re: Initials (James H Nelson)
36. 03:47 PM - Re: Initials (sportypilot@stx.rr.com)
37. 03:49 PM - Re: Initials (Joseph Larson)
38. 04:05 PM - Re: Oil Separator (Alex Peterson)
39. 04:34 PM - (Matt Dralle)
40. 05:17 PM - Re: Lycoming 0-360 A4M , RV-8 (Konrad L. Werner)
41. 05:50 PM - Re: Oil Separator (Kyle Boatright)
42. 06:59 PM - Re: Oil Separator (Jim Cimino)
43. 07:14 PM - Rudder Leading edge (Richard Leach)
44. 07:20 PM - Re: Initials (Sam Buchanan)
45. 08:03 PM - Re: Oil Separator (linn walters)
46. 08:48 PM - Re: Rudder Leading edge (Jim Jewell)
47. 08:56 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 08/08/05 (Jim Jewell)
48. 08:57 PM - long power out glide question (charlie heathco)
49. 10:27 PM - Oil seperator... (JOHN STARN)
50. 10:59 PM - Re: Rudder Leading edge (MLWynn@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Gunn" <WGUNN@dot.state.tx.us>
I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years ago. Q:
why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts in most 6 cylinder
engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the dip stick to a
quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any harm is running less
oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer: regulations !
Look at the FAA certification of piston engines - FAR 33.39 (a) "Lubrication
system. The lubrication system of the engine must be designed and constructed
so that it will function properly in all flight attitudes and atmospheric conditions
in which the airplane is expected to operate. In wet sump engines, this
requirement must be met when only one-half of the maximum lubricant supply is
in the engine."
It is this one-half comment that has caused most air cooled / oil cooled engine,
for any manufacturer, to mark the dip stick to an excess quantity for normal
use so that this amount rule will meet certification for any given certified
aircraft installation. RVs have an excellently designed cooling plenum, so they
tend to keep the oil and cylinder heads well within limits.
Bottom line - you can operate any 320 or 360 Lycoming engine one to two quarts
below the marked full limit. As long as the temperature stays below 245 * F and
the pressure is steady, 6 quarts in a four cylinder engine is adequate to do
the other functions - cushion, clean, protect, etc.
Bill Gunn
RV 4
1700 hours and counting
Message 2
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Subject: | Bulkhead Resposes |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
--> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
Thanks for all the input, I should have thought it thru better. I will reinstall
with all screws. Thanks a lot, Charlie heathco
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Paul,
You might also want to post you question to the BMA Discussion Group on the
BMA website: http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/talk/
My "Lite G3" is due to arrive Wednesday but I went with a DigiTrak
autopilot.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 8/8/05, Valovich, Paul <pvalovich@dcscorp.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> This is one of those cases where the problem (?) is too many options!
>
>
> Anyone have any comments on the BMA EFIS Light with autopilot?
>
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> Booger
>
> RV-8A QB
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Engine hick up at a bad time |
--> RV-List message posted by: BELTEDAIR@aol.com
Tom, read the second message of this
Message 5
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Subject: | Center bulkhead question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Yes,
The baggage wall bulkheads are structural and provide anti-twisting support
for the fuselage.
Mike Robertson
>From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Center bulkhead question
>Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 19:22:26 -0500 autolearn=unavailable
>version=3.0.2
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
>
>I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be
>comming until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I
>want to leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all
>the screws back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is,
>anyone know of a reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie
>heathco Boerne
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Engine hick up at a bad time |
--> RV-List message posted by: "larry morgan" <lmorgan822@hotmail.com>
Jess, I couldn't open it.
>From: BELTEDAIR@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine hick up at a bad time
>Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 09:52:50 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: BELTEDAIR@aol.com
>
>Tom, read the second message of this
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue Mountain) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condon,Philip M." <PCONDON@mitre.org>
http://bluemountainavionics.com/elitemain.php
Price competitive with the Dynon now. Anyone have any information on the
Dynon new release in the EFIS area? (Not the Dynon engine management
offering)
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com>
On 8/8/05, Valovich, Paul <pvalovich@dcscorp.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> This is one of those cases where the problem (?) is too many options!
>
>
> Anyone have any comments on the BMA EFIS Light with autopilot?
>
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> Booger
>
> RV-8A QB
>
> I love my bluemountain EFIS Lite G3 and use it IFR but only with a backup
attitude indicator. I bought it to be an HSI primarily. They have worked out
pretty much all of the early bugs. I have several posts on the bluemountain
website.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue |
Mountain)
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head with
the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out this fall.
http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
There's a yahoo users group at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head with
the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out this fall.
http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
There's a yahoo users group at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 08/08/05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
Time: 10:38:20 PM PST US
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell"
<jjewell@telus.net>
Hello,
<snip>
I'm certain that Vans will tell any that will listen "Put it
in, tighten it
up or don't fly the plane".
Jim in Kelowna
Jim,
Does this also apply to the RV-8 rear baggage compartment
panel? I thought I had seen modifications allowing golf
clubs, etc. that removed this panel. Was considering that
myself, but glad I saw this thread...
Thanks,
Scott Keadle
14A, Lake Norman Airpark, NC
N844RF RV-8
Scott
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Engine hick up at a bad time |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I was running full rich, but I dropped someone off after a 2 hour flight
just minutes before. She was definitely hot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine hick up at a bad time
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
>> <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>>
>> There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's class
>> B
>> at night over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my first engine
>> hick up. Once clear of the real low part of the class B, I started a
>> climb with a decent pull (less than 2 g's though) when she cough'd. Just
>> a quick little cough but it definitely got my attention. I quickly
>> released the pressure and she returned to running smoothly. . I put the
>> b.p. on and flew very smoothly the rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It
>> never repeated. I was burning out of the left tank which has a flop
>> tube.
>> It's never done that before in over 230 hours and I havent had a chance
>> to
>> check things out. Ive got an IO-360, dual mags and a Bendix injector.
>> I've done plenty of aerobatics and have never had a problem.
>>
>> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>> RV-6A, N915JD
>> 235 hours
>> Chicago/Louisville
>
> Jeff, it could be that you were running right on the lean edge, and the
> sudden extra g was just enough to reduce fuel flow to the lean misfire
> point. The fuel has to travel a couple feet up from the servo to the
> injectors, and the extra g's will reduce the flow slightly. It should be
> relatively easy to try again, just set the mixture just at the point where
> it wants to run rough, then pull some g's.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6A N66AP 651 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Air Oil separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Have you flown without it?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Oil separator
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
>
> I have a separator on my RV-8 (M-20) and it works great. I only add about
> a
> quart of oil between changes and have almost nothing on the belly of the
> plane. I clean it off once a year and there is almost nothing there. I
> have heard all the problems with separators, but I like mine. I have the
> drain mounted between the two exhaust pipes.
> Jim
> Jim Cimino
> N7TL
> RV-8 S/N 80039
> 150+ Hours
> http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Air Oil separator
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
>>
>> Been following the coments re oil drip line placement and air/oil
>> separators. I think puting the drip line into the exaust is a bad idea,
>> and when I was going to put an oil air separator on my cherokee about a
>> year ago, I asked for input from cherokee pilots, and no one had anything
>> good to say about any of the brands, concensus was that they just dont
>> work as advertized. charlie heathco
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Garmin Install Kits For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Loflin" <loflinj@comcast.net>
I have a GNS480 (formerly UPSAT CNX-80) and a SL30 install kit for sale. You
pay only what I pay which was $570 for the GNS480 kit and $150 for the SL30
kit. Both install kits were purchased from John Stark in January of last
year. Neither kit has been installed. They are still in the box I got from
John when I bought them. The SL30 kit has not been wired, but the GNS480
rack was wired by Stark Avionics. Complete with an external CDI and
everything.
Please call/e-mail for any additional information. Price is firm, but there
is wiggle room. I can send pictures if needed. Have original invoice if
you'd like to see that as well.
Thanks!
Jack Loflin
Corvallis, Oregon
541-745-5059 (home)
541-908-4104 (cell)
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Air Oil Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
jim & terri truitt wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1@earthlink.net>
>
>I have have done some limited experimentation with a homemade air/oil separator
on my 8A. I think the critical thing may be the volume of the container. I
think it needs to be big enough for the vapors to swirl around inside, with a
contact media for the oil to condense onto. The other critical point is that
both hoses need to be 5/8 inch to ensure breathing without excess velocity.
>
I always thought the idea was the "spin" the oil out of the air using
something that looks like this. . .
http://www.thewishzone.com/cdw/AirOilSeparator/
--
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 15
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Subject: | RV-8 wings wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by:
Stephanie,
Just a word of caution.
RV8 wings are matched to the 804 bulkheads. If you get a set of wings then
you should also get the corresponding 804 pieces - two large gold anodized
cross members and four stamped ribs. On my 8, and I believe on all 8s, spars
have a serial number which is also engraved on the 804 pieces, that's
because they are factory matched drilled to each other. If you get wings
without the matching 804 you might not be able to bolt the wings onto your
airframe.
Michele
RV8 fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie Marshall
> Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 4:25 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
>
> We are looking for a pair of RV-8 wings, does anyone have a pair they
> would like to sell or do you know of anyone that might?
>
> Thanks,
> Stephanie
> www.rv-8a.4t.com
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue |
Mountain)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Not exactly "head to head" . . . I purchased the BMA Lite because it does
more . . . especially than the Dynon . . . but also more than the GRT Sport
. . . my specific need / desire was the HSI Function that the BMA Lite has .
. . I don't have it yet but others seem happy with this function . . . also
the BMA Lite includes an internal GPS that will serve as a back-up in my
case, but it will be nice to have that as well.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 8/9/05, lucky <luckymacy@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
> They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head
> with the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out
> this fall.
> http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
> http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
> There's a yahoo users group at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
>
>
> Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
>
>
> They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head
> with the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out
> this fall.
>
>
> http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
>
>
> http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
>
>
> There's a yahoo users group at:
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue |
Mountain)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Not exactly "head to head" . . . I purchased the BMA Lite because it does
more . . . especially than the Dynon . . . but also more than the GRT Sport
. . . my specific need / desire was the HSI Function that the BMA Lite has .
. . I don't have it yet but others seem happy with this function . . . also
the BMA Lite includes an internal GPS that will serve as a back-up in my
case, but it will be nice to have that as well.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 8/9/05, lucky <luckymacy@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
> They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head
> with the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out
> this fall.
> http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
> http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
> There's a yahoo users group at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
>
>
> Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
>
>
> They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head
> with the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out
> this fall.
>
>
> http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
>
>
> http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
>
>
> There's a yahoo users group at:
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
>
>
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Gear leg fairing installation 6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Installing Van's fiberglas gear leg fairings on a 6A. I have one piece flexible
brake lines from the fuse to the brake calipers. A split nylon tubing covers
the woven SS brake line to prevent abrasion of the gear leg and the line.
The Question: I'm considering wraps of duct tape (or perhaps aluminum foil tape)
around the gear leg and brake line to hold the line in place and also prevent
abrasion of the epoxy paint on the gear legs by the fiberglas fairing.
Is there a down side to using tape as described? Will the adhesive eventually lift
the paint? Has anybody done something similar and how is it working?
Dale Ensing
do not archive
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Annual inspection question - magneto points |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
Listers,
I am updating my annual inspection checklist for my RV-6A. I have a Lycoming
O-320 with Slick magnetos. Should these magnetos be pulled off the airplane
every annual for inspection of the points, gapping, etc or is it acceptable
just to check/reset the timing? I know that the mags are due for an overhaul
at 500 hours.
Stephen Soule
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Ladies and Gentlemen;
I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the initials
and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
etc......
Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are not
quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
at least it would be a help.
Thanks
Bud Silvers
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney@excite.com>
I know it must be bewildering for a "stick and rudder" guy Bud. Wait until you
find out just how much is available for your RV in the way of equipment. That
is what most of those acronyms are regarding, and there are lots of decisions
to be made. Of course, they all cost $$$. Good luck, and welcome to the "money
sink."--- On Tue 08/09, flynlow flynlow@usaviator.net wrote:
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Bud;
You may have to just read the list for awhile,like we other "Old Pharts" ,in
order to learn the language. I've been lurking for years and have finally
learned some of it. Most of it is avionics stuff which we aren't interested
in anyway. That is ; gadgets which aren't really needed but satisfy a
yearning for those with too many bucks to spend. I just can't comprehend the
urge
to "Put a pack saddle on a race horse" like some of these young builders do
!!
Any way,hang in here, it is all worth while and very helpful.
Two time builder,
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 08/09 2:09, flynlow wrote:
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the initials
> and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
> Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
> etc......
>
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are not
> quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
> at least it would be a help.
FYI (For Your Information)
Do a google search for the acronyms.
You really don't know what OAT means?
(O)utstanding (A)cronym (T)ranslator
JK [Just Kidding]
LOL [Lots of Laughs]
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
I can help with some of these:
HSI: Horizontal Situation Indicator. It's a fancy attitude indicator
(AI). It combines your AI with the VOR display used with your NAV
radio. They tend to be expensive.
GRT: Grand Rapids Technologies. They make experimental avionics.
GNS480: This is a Garmin GPS / NAV / COM radio.
SL30: Another Garmin product, this time a NAV / COM raid.
EFIS: Electronic Flight Information System. Basically, it's one of
the pieces of glass in a glass cockpit panel.
BMT, BMA, AFP: I don't recognize these.
OAT: Outside Air Temperature.
You should expect folks to become used to some of these
abbreviations, just like you're used to terms such as VOR, VFR, IFR,
ILS, etc.
Using company abbreviations and product numbers without previously
identifying the companies in question is begging for folks to say
"what are you talking about?"
-Joe
On Aug 9, 2005, at 3:09 PM, flynlow wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen;
>
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first
> build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the
> initials
> and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking
> about.
> Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT,
> AFP,
> etc......
>
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that
> are not
> quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but
> for me
> at least it would be a help.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bud Silvers
>
>
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
I am not an old fart (well maybe depending on who you ask) but I feel you..
BMA= Blue Mountain Avionics =
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com
HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
GRT= Grand Rapids Technologies =
http://www.grtavionics.com/
GNS480= Garmins awesome gps nav/com model number =
http://www.garmin.com/products/gns480/
SL30= Garmin Radio model number =
http://www.garmin.com/products/sl30/
EFIS= Electronics flight information system = See above or dynon 10a =
http://www.dynonavionics.com/
EMS= Engine monitoring system , you will find some at the above sites
OAT= Outside Air temp
AFP= air flow performance fuel injection system (very good system)
http://www.airflowperformance.com/
Danny..
anyone else want to add to this list ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Subject: RV-List: Initials
> --> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen;
>
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the
> initials
> and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
> Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
> etc......
>
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are
> not
> quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
> at least it would be a help.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bud Silvers
>
>
>
Message 26
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Subject: | cables and firewall eyeballs |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan_products <alan_products@blarg.net>
Maybe I'm goin' nuts (well, OK, let's just take that for granted...) but I couldn't
find any info regarding the size of firewall eyeballs required for Van's
control cables, nor the size holes required for the eyeballs. Spruce finally referred
me to the manufacturer of the eyeballs they sell; scoop follows.
First, eyeballs for your eyeballs:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw.php
- the TTP series takes a 1.115" hole, which, I'm told, you can knock into the firewall
using a 0.75" electrical conduit punch
- the SE961-B and -S series both take a 1.125" center hole and come with drill
templates for the [steel] mounting bolts
- the aluminum eyeballs (TTP and SE961-B) can be reamed to allow larger cables.
The SE961-S cannot be reamed over 0.260"
Now, unless I'm 'way off today, I measure my Van's quadrant cable diameters at
0.343". I haven't seen anyone talking about having to ream the holes in their
eyeballs for these cables, but it appears that many would have had to do so. Since
the SE961-S series can't be reamed above 0.260", it would appear that we
can't use the SE961-S steel eyeballs with these cables. So we're left with aluminum
eyeballs, TTP and SE961-B.
Question: did you buy .260" and ream to .343" (or something darned close) or just
buy .375", and if the latter is that nice 'n tight?
Just sorting this out for posterity so folks don't have to fiddle around on the
phones.... If something sounds wacky, please holler!
Alan Erickson
8A with all the fixins!
Message 27
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refid=0001.0A090203.42F91B0A.0013-A-,
ip=209.107.238.85,
so=2005-07-14 09:05:58,
dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
flynlow wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
>Ladies and Gentlemen;
>
>I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
>and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the initials
>and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
>Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
>etc......
>
>Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are not
>quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
>at least it would be a help.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bud Silvers
>
Hello Bud,
You're an old goat, not an old fart........ If I can learn all those abbreviations,
you will too. i'm probably older than you...
I found that usually if I didnt know the abbreviation, that it probably didnt mean
anything to me anyhow so I ignored it. I think sometime they used initials
so their wife and people with common sense wouldnt know how much it really cost..
BMA, I dunno
HSI, Horizontal Situation Indicator.... artificial horizon, Directional gyro, navigation
information and other stuff that I don't know what they are talking
about...
GRT, Dunno
GNS480, this is a Garmin unit that seems to be very much in demand
SL30,this is an Apollo Communication and Navigation set. (I have the cheaper SL40,
it works great)
EFIS, Electronic Flight Information System (these are directional gyro, artificial
Horizon, compass, airspeed, altimeter all rolled into one) DYNON is an example
BMT, dunno, think it is is in the above EFIS
OAT, outside air temperature
AFP, This is a fuel injection unit Air Flow Performance,(I have Bendix)
Welcome to this list, you are going to get an education here. Where are you at
and what are you building? Remember, for every hour you spend on this list, you
could have driven 225 rivits, or measured and marked 90 locations, or drilled
and dimpled 120 holes. There are 17,022 rivets in an RV6. Hmmmm...... are these
figures right?
Spend your time carefully on here.
Phil in Illinois
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
On 8/9/05 3:11 PM, "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com> wrote:
> HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
Not familiar with this one. In the old days it meant Horizontal Situation
Indicator. An instrument that makes IFR (Instrument Flight Rules) flying
much easier.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: Annual inspection question - magneto points |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>I am updating my annual inspection checklist for my RV-6A. I have a Lycoming
>O-320 with Slick magnetos. Should these magnetos be pulled off the airplane
>every annual for inspection of the points, gapping, etc
>
No. It's really not cost effective if you have someone else test/set
the mags.
> or is it acceptable just to check/reset the timing?
>
Normal wear won't change the timing enough for you to measure. Unless
you just want to!!!
> I know that the mags are due for an overhaul at 500 hours.
>
Unless you have a problem, I wouldn't mess with the mags until they
reach tat point. And I'll bet that you'll notice a difference at
overhaul time. If you're going to open up a mag, might as well do a
full overhaul anyway.
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>Stephen Soule
>
>
>
>
--
Message 30
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Subject: | Re: cables and firewall eyeballs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I had to ream my one-hole eyeballs to get my control cables to fit right.
Just do whatever works for you. See about 1/3 way down on this page:
http://www.rvproject.com/20030830.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (585 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "alan_products" <alan_products@blarg.net>
Subject: RV-List: cables and firewall eyeballs
> --> RV-List message posted by: alan_products <alan_products@blarg.net>
>
> Maybe I'm goin' nuts (well, OK, let's just take that for granted...) but I
couldn't find any info regarding the size of firewall eyeballs required for
Van's control cables, nor the size holes required for the eyeballs. Spruce
finally referred me to the manufacturer of the eyeballs they sell; scoop
follows.
>
> First, eyeballs for your eyeballs:
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw.php
>
> - the TTP series takes a 1.115" hole, which, I'm told, you can knock into
the firewall using a 0.75" electrical conduit punch
>
> - the SE961-B and -S series both take a 1.125" center hole and come with
drill templates for the [steel] mounting bolts
>
> - the aluminum eyeballs (TTP and SE961-B) can be reamed to allow larger
cables. The SE961-S cannot be reamed over 0.260"
>
> Now, unless I'm 'way off today, I measure my Van's quadrant cable
diameters at 0.343". I haven't seen anyone talking about having to ream the
holes in their eyeballs for these cables, but it appears that many would
have had to do so. Since the SE961-S series can't be reamed above 0.260", it
would appear that we can't use the SE961-S steel eyeballs with these cables.
So we're left with aluminum eyeballs, TTP and SE961-B.
>
> Question: did you buy .260" and ream to .343" (or something darned close)
or just buy .375", and if the latter is that nice 'n tight?
>
> Just sorting this out for posterity so folks don't have to fiddle around
on the phones.... If something sounds wacky, please holler!
>
> Alan Erickson
> 8A with all the fixins!
>
>
Message 31
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Subject: | Lycoming 0-360 A4M , RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Hood" <hoodcom@sbcglobal.net>
I have a friend who is building an 8. He is planning on installing a Lycoming
0-360 A4M. Is there anyone out there who has accomplished this task or has an
understanding of the complications, if any? Reply direct if you like.
thanks
bill hood hoodcom@sbcglobal.net
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
> > HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
>
>Not familiar with this one. In the old days it meant Horizontal Situation
>Indicator. An instrument that makes IFR (Instrument Flight Rules) flying
>much easier.
You may be right but when I read the text on HSI I just gave up. Don't
have one...don't need one...and may just accept wrong answers on the
test.
Ron Lee
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
I thought HSI ='d... Horizontal Situation Indicator... Haven't heard "speed" used...
Darrell
Sportypilot <sportypilot@stx.rr.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot"
I am not an old fart (well maybe depending on who you ask) but I feel you..
BMA= Blue Mountain Avionics =
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com
HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
GRT= Grand Rapids Technologies =
http://www.grtavionics.com/
GNS480= Garmins awesome gps nav/com model number =
http://www.garmin.com/products/gns480/
SL30= Garmin Radio model number =
http://www.garmin.com/products/sl30/
EFIS= Electronics flight information system = See above or dynon 10a =
http://www.dynonavionics.com/
EMS= Engine monitoring system , you will find some at the above sites
OAT= Outside Air temp
AFP= air flow performance fuel injection system (very good system)
http://www.airflowperformance.com/
Danny..
anyone else want to add to this list ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "flynlow"
Subject: RV-List: Initials
> --> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow"
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen;
>
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the
> initials
> and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
> Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
> etc......
>
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are
> not
> quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
> at least it would be a help.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bud Silvers
>
>
>
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
Bud,
You've already made the first step...asking a question by this list. I'm
almost an Old Fart myself and I know a lot of folks who think they are too
old to use a computer! So you are one step ahead by using your PC...oops,
personal computer.
As you build your RV, you will find this list and others invaluable in
providing answers to all kinds of questions, some asked by you and some
asked by others.
My favorite acronym is BLT
Give up?
Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato (sandwich) :
)
Hang in there!
Don Hull
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Subject: Re: RV-List: Initials
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 08/09 2:09, flynlow wrote:
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the
initials > and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is
talking about. > Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS,
BMT, OAT, AFP, > etc...... >
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are
not > quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but
for me > at least it would be a help.
FYI (For Your Information)
Do a google search for the acronyms.
You really don't know what OAT means?
(O)utstanding (A)cronym (T)ranslator
JK [Just Kidding]
LOL [Lots of Laughs]
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Your correct Darrell
Jim
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: sportypilot@stx.rr.com
yeah I screwed that one up.. working nights :)
----- Original Message -----
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Initials
> --> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley
> <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
> I thought HSI ='d... Horizontal Situation Indicator... Haven't
> heard "speed" used...
>
> Darrell
>
> Sportypilot <sportypilot@stx.rr.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot"
>
> I am not an old fart (well maybe depending on who you ask) but I
> feel you..
>
> BMA= Blue Mountain Avionics =
> http://www.bluemountainavionics.com
> HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
> GRT= Grand Rapids Technologies =
> http://www.grtavionics.com/
> GNS480= Garmins awesome gps nav/com model number =
> http://www.garmin.com/products/gns480/
> SL30= Garmin Radio model number =
> http://www.garmin.com/products/sl30/
>
> EFIS= Electronics flight information system = See above or dynon
> 10a =
> http://www.dynonavionics.com/
> EMS= Engine monitoring system , you will find some at the above sites
> OAT= Outside Air temp
> AFP= air flow performance fuel injection system (very good system)
> http://www.airflowperformance.com/
>
>
> Danny..
>
> anyone else want to add to this list ?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "flynlow"
> To: "Rv-List@Matronics. Com"
> Subject: RV-List: Initials
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "flynlow"
> >
> > Ladies and Gentlemen;
> >
> > I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my
> first build
> > and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all
> the
> > initials
> > and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is
> talking about.
> > Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT,
> OAT, AFP,
> > etc......
> >
> > Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts
> that are
> > not
> > quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here,
> but for me
> > at least it would be a help.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bud Silvers
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Darrell Reiley
> Round Rock, Texas
>
> RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
> N622DR (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
No one "needs" one. I've only flown with one once, and I really
liked it. I got back from that flight and checked prices, then
gulped and said, "Guess my RV isn't going to have one."
But now all the EFIS units have an HSI type of display, so I might
get one after all :-)
-Joe
On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:08 PM, Ron Lee wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
>
>>> HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
>>>
>>
>> Not familiar with this one. In the old days it meant Horizontal
>> Situation
>> Indicator. An instrument that makes IFR (Instrument Flight Rules)
>> flying
>> much easier.
>>
>
>
> You may be right but when I read the text on HSI I just gave up.
> Don't
> have one...don't need one...and may just accept wrong answers on the
> test.
>
> Ron Lee
Message 38
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years
> ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts in
> most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
> dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any
> harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
> regulations !
The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why the
sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out the
breather.
BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I fill
it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N6AP 651 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 39
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rv7-list@matronics.com, rv8-list@matronics.com, rv9-list@matronics.com,
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Listers,
Gary VanRemortel just sent me an update to the RV Yeller Pages and it
can be found here:
http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/
Thanks Gary!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 40
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Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0-360 A4M , RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
You may want to check with Brian Denk at akroguy@hotmail.com
I think he has an 0-360-A4M in his fine -8, but then I have been wrongo beforo.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Hood
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 3:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming 0-360 A4M , RV-8
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Hood" <hoodcom@sbcglobal.net>
I have a friend who is building an 8. He is planning on installing a Lycoming
0-360 A4M. Is there anyone out there who has accomplished this task or has
an understanding of the complications, if any? Reply direct if you like.
thanks
bill hood hoodcom@sbcglobal.net
--
Message 41
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Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Separator
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>> I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years
>> ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts
>> in
>> most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
>> dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any
>> harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
>> regulations !
>
> The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why the
> sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out the
> breather.
>
> BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I
> fill
> it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6A N6AP 651 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
The answer is that the oil doesn't "go to the very top of the engine and out
the breather"... What happens is that the higher oil level means the oil is
that much closer to the crankshaft and rods, which means the reciprocating
parts are that much more likely to come into contact with the oil in the
pan during any uncoordinated turns, climbs, or unusual attitude maneuvers.
When that happens, the oil splashes around, and some is turned into droplets
and goes out the breather.
By the way, I notice that I get far less oil on the belly if I keep the
greasy side down. My Oshkosh trip this year was Atlanta to Minneapolis to
Oshkosh to Chicago to Ann Arbor and back to Atlanta. With my wife along, I
was under a strict edict to fly smooth, and as level as possible. I don't
have the hours handy, but I'm guessing 12-14 or so for the total trip. I
didn't add any oil and the belly was relatively clean when I got home. In
the same number of hours of local flying, I'd probably do 25 rolls, a number
of wing overs, some lazy 8's, and several other positive G maneuvers. Over
that span, I'd need to add at least a quart of oil and the airplane's belly
would be a mess...
Kyle Boatright
Message 42
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Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
Received-SPF: none
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
The rods and crankshaft are pressure fed in a Lycoming Engine and the
crankshaft is in the middle of the engine. If you drop the sump, there is
no direct access from there to the rods or crankshaft, so I don't understand
how keeping the sump full adds to the possibility of the rods coming in
contact with the oil? I know that can happen in a car engine, but I don't
see that having any bearing on an aircraft engine. I think what causes most
oil loss is just simple blow-by. These engine get a lot of oil to the tops
of the cylinders and some is going to get past the guides and seals and into
the combustion chamber, the more oil you put up there, the more gets by. By
flipping a plane around, you may increase it. Lycoming also states that it
is safe to fly an IO-360 on as little as two quarts, but the additional oil
helps provide cooling.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
150+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Separator
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>>
>>> I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years
>>> ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts
>>> in
>>> most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
>>> dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any
>>> harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
>>> regulations !
>>
>> The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why
>> the
>> sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out
>> the
>> breather.
>>
>> BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I
>> fill
>> it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
>>
>> Alex Peterson
>> RV6A N6AP 651 hours
>> Maple Grove, MN
>>
>
> The answer is that the oil doesn't "go to the very top of the engine and
> out
> the breather"... What happens is that the higher oil level means the oil
> is
> that much closer to the crankshaft and rods, which means the reciprocating
> parts are that much more likely to come into contact with the oil in the
> pan during any uncoordinated turns, climbs, or unusual attitude maneuvers.
> When that happens, the oil splashes around, and some is turned into
> droplets
> and goes out the breather.
>
> By the way, I notice that I get far less oil on the belly if I keep the
> greasy side down. My Oshkosh trip this year was Atlanta to Minneapolis to
> Oshkosh to Chicago to Ann Arbor and back to Atlanta. With my wife along,
> I
> was under a strict edict to fly smooth, and as level as possible. I don't
> have the hours handy, but I'm guessing 12-14 or so for the total trip. I
> didn't add any oil and the belly was relatively clean when I got home. In
> the same number of hours of local flying, I'd probably do 25 rolls, a
> number
> of wing overs, some lazy 8's, and several other positive G maneuvers.
> Over
> that span, I'd need to add at least a quart of oil and the airplane's
> belly
> would be a mess...
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
>
Message 43
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Subject: | Rudder Leading edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
I just finished rolling and riveting the leading edge of the rudder
tonight. Wow, wasn't squeezing g that thing together fun. It turned
out pretty good with the top section nearest the counterbalance rib and
the bottom section are very good with the riveted edge very tight. The
center section is not quite as tight. There are about three places
where I could not get a good bend on the edge and after riveting, there
is a slight gap between the two skins. The gap is very slight in all
three places but wanting to be a perfectionist, I thought I would get
some thoughts from the group. Is there a problem if the two skins are
not perfectly tight at the edges, should I drill the section out and try
and tighten them up, or should I let it go and deal with it when I
paint? Y the way, the roll is very equal and symmetrical these small
gaps seem to be the only problem.
Thanks for the input.
Rick Leach
40397
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Joseph Larson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
>
> No one "needs" one. I've only flown with one once, and I really
> liked it. I got back from that flight and checked prices, then
> gulped and said, "Guess my RV isn't going to have one."
>
> But now all the EFIS units have an HSI type of display, so I might
> get one after all :-)
Some of the handheld GPS's have a surprisingly useful "HSI" as well.
While the HSI in my Lowrance Airmap 1000 is just a fancy GPS display, it
looks like an HSI and behaves a lot like one. It will even mimic an OBS
and let you select a VOR "radial" or a bearing off a waypoint. I haven't
had any need for the HSI display (don't shoot approaches in IMC), but it
is kinda cool to play with.
Sam Buchanan
Message 45
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|
Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Jim Cimino wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
>
>The rods and crankshaft are pressure fed in a Lycoming Engine and the
>crankshaft is in the middle of the engine. If you drop the sump, there is
>no direct access from there to the rods or crankshaft, so I don't understand
>how keeping the sump full adds to the possibility of the rods coming in
>contact with the oil?
>
If you do drop the pan and look closely at the case parting liine,
you'll see some oval holes that the oil drains down through to the sump
after it's done it's job lubricating things.
> I know that can happen in a car engine, but I don't
>see that having any bearing on an aircraft engine.
>
It really doesn't. I believe that if you put all 8 quarts (or whatever
is 'full' for your engine) in, the level will rise above the level of
the sump into the crank cavity where it's whipped a little and goes out
the crankcase vent. I also think that when the level gets down to 6
qts, the oil level is down in the sump. It would be easy to check by
comparing the level of the 8 qt mark on the dipstick to the level of the
dipstick tube. The next time I have the cowl off, I'll check. Y'all
can do the same and report back.
> I think what causes most oil loss is just simple blow-by.
>
I think you're right!
> These engine get a lot of oil to the tops
>of the cylinders and some is going to get past the guides and seals and into
>the combustion chamber, the more oil you put up there, the more gets by.
>
I don't think this is true. There is some oil pumped to the rocker area
through the pushrods ..... and that oil really aids in cooling ....
especially the exhaust valve. Keep an eye on CHTs for #3, as it's
typically the hottest .... and has the lowest amount of oil flow due to
it being at the end of the oil gallery.
> By flipping a plane around, you may increase it.
>
Nah. Almost all the oil goes out the breather or your inverted oil
system if you have one. On a tight engine, (read good cylinders and
rings) the amount burned is negligible compared to what you'll dump
overboard doing akro ..... unless you're really good and only pull + Gs.
> Lycoming also states that it is safe to fly an IO-360 on as little as two quarts,
but the additional oil helps provide cooling.
>
True. However, if you fill the oil to the 'full' mark (8 qts), you'll
lose the first two rapidly out the breather. Bill Gunn has already
covered WHY it says fill to 8 qts!!!
Linn
>Jim
>
>Jim Cimino
>N7TL
>RV-8 S/N 80039
>150+ Hours
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Separator
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>>><alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years
>>>>ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts
>>>>in
>>>>most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
>>>>dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any
>>>>harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
>>>>regulations !
>>>>
>>>>
>>>The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why
>>>the
>>>sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out
>>>the
>>>breather.
>>>
>>>BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I
>>>fill
>>>it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
>>>
>>>Alex Peterson
>>>RV6A N6AP 651 hours
>>>Maple Grove, MN
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>The answer is that the oil doesn't "go to the very top of the engine and
>>out
>>the breather"... What happens is that the higher oil level means the oil
>>is
>>that much closer to the crankshaft and rods, which means the reciprocating
>>parts are that much more likely to come into contact with the oil in the
>>pan during any uncoordinated turns, climbs, or unusual attitude maneuvers.
>>When that happens, the oil splashes around, and some is turned into
>>droplets
>>and goes out the breather.
>>
>>By the way, I notice that I get far less oil on the belly if I keep the
>>greasy side down. My Oshkosh trip this year was Atlanta to Minneapolis to
>>Oshkosh to Chicago to Ann Arbor and back to Atlanta. With my wife along,
>>I
>>was under a strict edict to fly smooth, and as level as possible. I don't
>>have the hours handy, but I'm guessing 12-14 or so for the total trip. I
>>didn't add any oil and the belly was relatively clean when I got home. In
>>the same number of hours of local flying, I'd probably do 25 rolls, a
>>number
>>of wing overs, some lazy 8's, and several other positive G maneuvers.
>>Over
>>that span, I'd need to add at least a quart of oil and the airplane's
>>belly
>>would be a mess...
>>
>>Kyle Boatright
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 46
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|
Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Rick,
Putting it off untill later can be a good ploy as skills and judgment will
likely be better developed.
However as a rule it is best to not leave a a lot of stuff for later. The
pile of unfinished odds and ends can get to be a bit annoying during the
painting seasions when you start finding all that stuff you meant to do
earlier.
I had to drive across town today to machine dimple some screw holes so that
the priming for final paint could continue.
Jim in Kelowna
Hello to Art in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
<owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Leading edge
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
>
> I just finished rolling and riveting the leading edge of the rudder
> tonight. Wow, wasn't squeezing g that thing together fun. It turned
> out pretty good with the top section nearest the counterbalance rib and
> the bottom section are very good with the riveted edge very tight. The
> center section is not quite as tight. There are about three places
> where I could not get a good bend on the edge and after riveting, there
> is a slight gap between the two skins. The gap is very slight in all
> three places but wanting to be a perfectionist, I thought I would get
> some thoughts from the group. Is there a problem if the two skins are
> not perfectly tight at the edges, should I drill the section out and try
> and tighten them up, or should I let it go and deal with it when I
> paint? Y the way, the roll is very equal and symmetrical these small
> gaps seem to be the only problem.
>
> Thanks for the input.
>
> Rick Leach
> 40397
>
>
>
Message 47
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Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 08/08/05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Scott,
To tell the truth I'm not sure that the RV8 has the same design requirements
in that area.
The fuse structure is quie different than the RV 6 series.
Maybe another RV 8 builder will chime in on the subject?.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "with HTTP/1.1" <scott@keadle.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 08/08/05
> --> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
> Does this also apply to the RV-8 rear baggage compartment
> panel? I thought I had seen modifications allowing golf
> clubs, etc. that removed this panel. Was considering that
> myself, but glad I saw this thread...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Keadle
> 14A, Lake Norman Airpark, NC
> N844RF RV-8
>
> Scott
>
>
>
Message 48
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Subject: | long power out glide question |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
--> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
I just watched the reinactment of the airbuss coming into the azores sans pwer
and I admit It brought tears to my eyes to experience the courage and smarts to
bring that huge plane down for such a long way as a glider and get her down
safly. I remember posting a question back in March I think it was abouit trying
to bring my 6a down on Jeff county Ga at idle from 10 mi out at 5000'. I ended
up overshooting in spite of slips and stuff. I remember quite a few responses
re trying something simular. Just wondered if anyone had tried a long gluide
successfully since then?? Charlie heathco
Message 49
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|
Subject: | Oil seperator... |
"rocket-list" <rocket-list@matronics.com>,
"rv10-list" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
The Lyc IO-540 J4A5 in HRII N561FS has the internal oil system that sprays
oil on the bottom sides of the pistons. This "spray" would increase air
borne oil droplets who could then find their way out the vent system. Have
been told that this spray system is used on Turbo'ed optioned Lyc. etc. to
increase cooling on the higher HP engines. The J4A5 in 561FS is only rated
at 250 HP. Not sure IF or what 320/360's use this system but I would assume
this type of system would also be on certain 4 cylinder Lyco. too.
I do know anything over about 9 1/2 qts. in 561FS gets pumped overboard.
Check the archives IF your interested IMNSHO in what I've posted on oil
separators. (not favorable). KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
Message 50
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Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading edge |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi Rick
I was in a similar dilema. Took it down to the weekly EAA breakfast. Both
the tech advisor and the local sheet metal guru said that this doesn't show and
that fixing it may well foul the whole thing up. If in real doubt, take it
to your local EAA tech advisor.
One of the adages we use in my work is, the greatest enemy of good is better.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
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