Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:36 AM - Re: Turbine Engines for RVs (Chris W)
2. 04:33 AM - Re: Engine Overhaul Question (Larry Bowen)
3. 04:34 AM - Re: Photo for presentation (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
4. 05:33 AM - Re: Photo for presentation (Alex Peterson)
5. 05:43 AM - Re: Engine Overhaul Question (Richard Bibb)
6. 06:06 AM - Re: Photo for presentation (Doug Rozendaal)
7. 06:07 AM - Re: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-, ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59 (Jeff Dowling)
8. 06:10 AM - Re: Turbine Engines for RVs (Jeff Dowling)
9. 06:19 AM - Re: Rudder stops (Kelly Patterson)
10. 06:31 AM - Control Surfaces Deflection Limits (Valovich, Paul)
11. 06:59 AM - Re: Painting Class (linn walters)
12. 07:04 AM - Re: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-, (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
13. 07:16 AM - Re: Photo for presentation (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
14. 07:40 AM - Green Oil (Rick Galati)
15. 08:45 AM - Re: Green Oil (Rob Prior (rv7))
16. 09:26 AM - Jet powered Cessna 150 (lyle)
17. 09:31 AM - Re: Green Oil (Doug Rozendaal)
18. 09:48 AM - Re: Control Surfaces Deflection Limits (Phil Birkelbach)
19. 10:14 AM - Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep (sturdy@att.net)
20. 10:52 AM - Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 (Mark Grieve)
21. 11:24 AM - Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 (Rob Prior (rv7))
22. 11:26 AM - Re: Painting Class (Ed Holyoke)
23. 12:48 PM - Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 (Greg Young)
24. 01:12 PM - Re: Painting Class (linn walters)
25. 01:34 PM - Re: Green Oil (charlie heathco)
26. 01:40 PM - Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 (charlie heathco)
27. 01:46 PM - Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 (charlie heathco)
28. 02:22 PM - Re: Painting Class (John Danielson)
29. 02:34 PM - Aerobatics training (charlie heathco)
30. 03:12 PM - Wing Metal Strips ()
31. 03:48 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (Kyle Boatright)
32. 04:08 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (Alex Peterson)
33. 04:10 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net)
34. 04:21 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (Richard Dudley)
35. 04:33 PM - Re: Photo for presentation (Dan Checkoway)
36. 04:43 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (Jerry Calvert)
37. 04:53 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (Richard Dudley)
38. 05:00 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips ()
39. 05:07 PM - IO-360-A1B6D/A3B6D in a -7A (Scott Farner)
40. 05:19 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (Steve Allison)
41. 05:59 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (Darrell Reiley)
42. 06:05 PM - Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep (Jeff Dowling)
43. 06:17 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (Darrell Reiley)
44. 07:14 PM - Shaping the elevator counter weights (MLWynn@aol.com)
45. 07:39 PM - [Fw: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder stops -7] (Bobby Hester)
46. 08:04 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (Bobby Hester)
47. 08:55 PM - Re: Green Oil (Ken Dominy)
48. 09:42 PM - Re: Wing Metal Strips (HCRV6@aol.com)
49. 09:44 PM - Bevel E-713 (MLWynn@aol.com)
50. 10:31 PM - Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep (RV6 Flyer)
51. 11:38 PM - First Flight Video (Walter Tondu)
52. 11:45 PM - Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Turbine Engines for RVs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
From the facts as I understand them, the only way a turbine engine
makes sense, as in dollars and cents, is if you plan on spending most of
your time above 30,000 ft. At that height the increase in TAS will make
up for increase in fuel burn. However, I think you would have to be
crazy to regularly fly much over 18,000 ft in an unpressurized plane.
--
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Aircraft Spruce has Pliobond. I have a link to the Lyc SI 1324A on my
site here:
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/12/gaskets_seals.html
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 120 Hrs.
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Richard Bibb said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
>
> I have a few questions for the engine gurus out there. All pertain to a
> Lycoming O-320-E2D.
>
> 1) What sort of sealer and/or lubricant do you use with the crankshaft
> nose
> seal? The Overhaul Manual calls for Pliobond No.20 but I can't find the
> stuff.
>
> 2) I got new bearings but am confused by the location of the holes for
> the
> locator dowells in the Crankcase halfs. The dowels in the case halfs are
> centered in the bottom of the journals but the holes in the bearing halves
> are offset from the center. This doesn't look right yet the part numbers
> are the correct part numbers. What am I missing here?
>
> 3) How does one reassemble one of these without the "Clylinder Hold Down
>
> Any help and advice on putting the engine back together is appreciated.
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Photo for presentation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Well I don't think it is an illusion as described in the web page.
I read through all the Hering stuff, including all the secondary pages
and it was a very interesting read. By the time I got done with all
those effects I now wonder if everything I see is an illusion:)
My wife Michelle took that picture from the beach. While our group from
the Turks and Caicos trip last year (flight of 15 RV's) were sprawled
out on the deck ducking Jimmy Backer and myself buzzing them and tearing
the place up and having a ball. My wife, call sign 'Photo', had the
presence of mind to take the shot and risk life and limb. It is one of
my all time favorites. You might also look closely and see the ailerons
are neutral, stick is neutral in my lap and I don't have inverted oil.
So all you geniuses... How can that be?
Answer later:)
Mike
Do not archive
S8 first flight tomorrow if all the planets line up. Yipee!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: Re: RV-List: Photo for presentation
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Ed,
You've been staring at your canopy frame too long! :-)
That's an optical illusion, called the Hering Illusion.
http://www.michaelbach.de/ot/ang_hering/index.html
Best regards,
Mickey
Ed Holyoke wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Does that airplane have forward sweep on it's wings? The elevator
hinge
> line and wing leading edge lines appear straight so I'm doubting
fisheye
> lens effect.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 4
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| Subject: | Photo for presentation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> My wife Michelle took that picture from the beach. While our
> group from the Turks and Caicos trip last year (flight of 15
> RV's) were sprawled out on the deck ducking Jimmy Backer and
> myself buzzing them and tearing the place up and having a
> ball. My wife, call sign 'Photo', had the presence of mind to
> take the shot and risk life and limb. It is one of my all
> time favorites. You might also look closely and see the
> ailerons are neutral, stick is neutral in my lap and I don't
> have inverted oil.
> So all you geniuses... How can that be?
>
> Answer later:)
>
> Mike
> Do not archive
Mike, if you posted the link to the picture, could you repost it please?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 654 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
Thanks for the link.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Overhaul Question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> Aircraft Spruce has Pliobond. I have a link to the Lyc SI 1324A on my
> site here:
>
> http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/12/gaskets_seals.html
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8 120 Hrs.
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> Richard Bibb said:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
> >
> > I have a few questions for the engine gurus out there. All pertain to a
> > Lycoming O-320-E2D.
> >
> > 1) What sort of sealer and/or lubricant do you use with the crankshaft
> > nose
> > seal? The Overhaul Manual calls for Pliobond No.20 but I can't find the
> > stuff.
> >
> > 2) I got new bearings but am confused by the location of the holes for
> > the
> > locator dowells in the Crankcase halfs. The dowels in the case halfs
are
> > centered in the bottom of the journals but the holes in the bearing
halves
> > are offset from the center. This doesn't look right yet the part
numbers
> > are the correct part numbers. What am I missing here?
> >
> > 3) How does one reassemble one of these without the "Clylinder Hold
Down
> >
> > Any help and advice on putting the engine back together is appreciated.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Photo for presentation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I put it in to MS paint and there is appearance of forward sweep. I am
guessing that it is because the nose of the airplane is farther from the
camera than the tail and what we see is really dihedral.
Just a guess.
Doug Rozendaal
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-, |
ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20
17:56:59
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Ive heard pro's say that hvlp is no good. Is this because they feel
threatened? I know nothing about painting.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
> Hey Phil, Youre welcome to use my Accuspray Issac HVLP or my Binks BBR
> high
> pressure. Just let me know. I laid the canopy on the frame last night and
> am
> trying to get the nerve to do a little cuttin, gasp!!!!!!!!!!!!! What'd ya
> think of Oshkosh.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
> ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
>> <sisson@consolidated.net>
>>
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>> This could be an informative class for those who want to paint their
>> plane and don't know where to start....
>> http://www.devilbiss.com/pdf/training/training_2005.pdf
>>
>> I am looking into buying a paint gun. It is going to be a Devilbiss GFG
>> 670 ot JGA 670. Does anyone on the list have experience with these guns
>> that use "plus" technology? Which do you like best, the gravity or the
>> suction version? Please reply direct (off list) with your ideas..
>>
>> I presently use MBC guns. I guess it is time I come into the 21st
>> century on paint guns..
>>
>> Phil in Illinois
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Turbine Engines for RVs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
You can always buy an old pressure suit :)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris W" <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Turbine Engines for RVs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W
> <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
>
> From the facts as I understand them, the only way a turbine engine
> makes sense, as in dollars and cents, is if you plan on spending most of
> your time above 30,000 ft. At that height the increase in TAS will make
> up for increase in fuel burn. However, I think you would have to be
> crazy to regularly fly much over 18,000 ft in an unpressurized plane.
>
> --
> Chris W
>
> Gift Giving Made Easy
> Get the gifts you want &
> give the gifts they want
> http://thewishzone.com
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | RE: Rudder stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
----- Original Message ----- > I find that a standard piece of 3/4x3/4x0.125
angle will allow just a tad more travel than called for in the manual (~33
deg vs. 30 deg). Does anyone out there have any experience with this or
know of any reason why this would be a problem?
OK - I have a reason.
I found the rudder hitting the elevators at full deflection during final
fit. The easy fix was to screw in the rudder pivot ball joints, which made
the rudder contact the stops earlier. The hard fix would be to make the
stops over and make sure you only get 30 degrees... I did the easy fix.
Kelly Patterson
N716K priming pinholes
PHX, AZ
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Control Surfaces Deflection Limits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
The posting 17 Aug regarding elevator deflection raised a question. I
thought the control deflection limits shown in the flight prep section
of the builder's manual referred to connected controls with limits
imposed by the stick / control rod assembly - not the unconnected
physical stops caused by contact with other aircraft parts. I'm about to
cut the HS aft spar flange to allow adequate elevator clearance. I am
concerned about achieving minimum clearance, but figured the max
limitation would be imposed by how tight I constructed "the system". Am
I wrong?
Paul Valovich
Ridgecrest, CA
RV-8A QB
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Painting Class |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
>Ive heard pro's say that hvlp is no good. Is this because they feel
>threatened? I know nothing about painting.
>
Jeff, I've painted with both 'old' guns, and HVLP. I've used the
turbine type HVLP and the shop air type. I like the HVLP for all the
reasons that have appeared on the list ..... good coverage, fine spray,
and less overspray/fog in the air. I want to use the airless type of
high pressure gun, but they're terribly pricey for a gun to do fine
work. The cheaper ones are great for painting walls, but not airplanes.
I haven't had any problems with cheap HVLP guns like from Harbor
Freight, and they worked almost as good as a $400 Binks that I
borrowed. Bear in mind that a robot wielding an HVLP gun puts a great
paint job on a car, so we should be able to come close with a great
paint job on our planes.
I will say that it takes more practice to get the air pressure set on
the HVLP guns than the old guns. Also proper attention to viscosity.
When you use 2 part urethanes or epoxy paints, you need to take the
time, 1/2 hour at the least, to let the mixed paint do it's chemical
thing. If you get in a hurry, it'll shoot strings and globs instead of
fine droplets. Induction they call it. Anyway, to answer your question
.... I like the HVLP guns ..... but I'm definitely not a pro ..... and
I'll paint my RV-10 with one.
Linn
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>235 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
>ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>>
>>Hey Phil, Youre welcome to use my Accuspray Issac HVLP or my Binks BBR
>>high
>>pressure. Just let me know. I laid the canopy on the frame last night and
>>am
>>trying to get the nerve to do a little cuttin, gasp!!!!!!!!!!!!! What'd ya
>>think of Oshkosh.
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV-List: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
>>ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
>>><sisson@consolidated.net>
>>>
>>>
>>>Do not archive
>>>
>>>This could be an informative class for those who want to paint their
>>>plane and don't know where to start....
>>> http://www.devilbiss.com/pdf/training/training_2005.pdf
>>>
>>>I am looking into buying a paint gun. It is going to be a Devilbiss GFG
>>>670 ot JGA 670. Does anyone on the list have experience with these guns
>>>that use "plus" technology? Which do you like best, the gravity or the
>>>suction version? Please reply direct (off list) with your ideas..
>>>
>>>I presently use MBC guns. I guess it is time I come into the 21st
>>>century on paint guns..
>>>
>>>Phil in Illinois
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
so=2005-07-14 09:05:58@roxy.matronics.com,
dmn=2005-05-20
17:56:59@roxy.matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-, |
ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20
17:56:59
refid=0001.0A090205.4303414A.005C-A-,
ip=209.107.238.85,
so=2005-07-14 09:05:58,
dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Jeff Dowling wrote:-->
RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>Ive heard pro's say that hvlp is no good. Is this because they feel
>threatened? I know nothing about painting.
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>235 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>
>
do not archive
I dont know Jeff. I used an HVLP at Oshkosh and it worked great. It was
an Apollo. The guy is there every year and I'm sure he has the perfect
paint mixed up for the demonstration.
This gu was so neat that I was able to paint the inside of a styrofoam
cup without getting over spray on me. Then I painted the 1/2 inch rim
around the cup and still never got over spray on me. There was no over
spray.
This was a turbine compressor gun. It uses an air supply which is
essentially a vacuum cleaner in reverse. In this case I think there were
two or three turbines in tandem, moving the air to the gun.
I came home and started doing research. I started getting some feed
back that HVLP has a tendency to put down
the coating too dry. After using the gun up there, I think it is either
operator technique or the material is not thinned just right, because
the gun at Osh was perfect and I had never touched an HVLPgun before. I
have painted a lot though with conventional guns.
I finally arrived at the Devilbiss "Plus" technology gun. Supposed to be
the latest and greatest. it is supposed to have a fan with low over
spray like HVLP and coating application of about 65 % or greater like
HVLP. It uses regular air compressor air like some of the HVLP guns but
supposedly it is an "air miser" and only requires 30 to forty psi max.
That is about what I always use any way. I ordered one with the paint
cup on top which I have never used before, Devilbiss "said" I will get
used to it and will probably like it better. I ordered E Z Liners with
it, which are like what used to go in baby bottles. These will let this
gun operate in all positions, so they all say. This will be very handy
for me since my plane is together, except what I took off to paint...
Then one day after I ordered a new gun, Mark offered to let me use his
Accuspray. Those are great guns, I didnt know he had one or I would have
and he didnt know I was looking for one. Another friend offered his SATA
which is also a great gun from all I read. I just thought it was time to
hang up the old low efficiency spray tools, even though they do a
perfect job at the trade off of lots of over spray. My wife told me if
I ordered one more thing off the internet, I was going to have to go
back to work. I sure like retirement but the money sucks.. these are my
opinions, nothing is chiseled in stone......
Phil in Illinois RV6 50 hours waiting to be painted
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Photo for presentation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/n686msgturk.jpg
Also it is in the thread list here:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/index.html
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Subject: RE: RV-List: Photo for presentation
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> My wife Michelle took that picture from the beach. While our
> group from the Turks and Caicos trip last year (flight of 15
> RV's) were sprawled out on the deck ducking Jimmy Backer and
> myself buzzing them and tearing the place up and having a
> ball. My wife, call sign 'Photo', had the presence of mind to
> take the shot and risk life and limb. It is one of my all
> time favorites. You might also look closely and see the
> ailerons are neutral, stick is neutral in my lap and I don't
> have inverted oil.
> So all you geniuses... How can that be?
>
> Answer later:)
>
> Mike
> Do not archive
Mike, if you posted the link to the picture, could you repost it please?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 654 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about green oil. The oil was being
drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the long time A&P mechanic said he
encounters this phenomena roughly once every 100 oil changes or so. I went to
his hangar next door to take a look and sure enough, the subject airplane was
being drained of Phillips 20W-50W and the oil clearly appeared to be pale olive
drab in color as it was draining out of the crankcase into a waste receptacle.
At first I thought it might have been some sort of an illusion but the olive
green color remained present as I sampled a drop or two on my fingers. I must
admit I've never witnessed this before, but then I've not nearly as much experience
with oil changes as this long time professional A&P who has often wondered
why this sometimes occurs. So I have to ask members of this list who just
might know the answer.........what sometimes causes engine oil to turn green?
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
This happened on our club aircraft, a wooden homebuilt that runs an O-235.
Our club aircraft was frequently flown for 15-20 minute flights, and then
put away. People would come out, do their 5 circuits (short grass strip,
each circuit can be pretty quick) to stay current, put the plane away, and
go home. One day we changed the oil and while it's draining noticed that
it was all a uniform milky colour... It might have had a green tinge to it,
but my recollection was that it was more of a greyish off-white colour.
We concluded that the short runs of the engine weren't enough to get the
oil up to temperature for long enough to boil off any moisture that had
accumulated in the down time between flights, and the extra moisture in the
oil caused it to turn a milky colour. Two AME's that were asked about it
agreed that was the likely cause. They also agreed that in order to burn
off the impurities on each flight, the airplane needed to be flown for at
least half an hour.
Since then, we instituted a minimum half-hour billing per flight, so all
flights less than half an hour are billed for 0.5 hour anyway. That way,
we hope people will have an incentive to fly it for at least that long.
Since this policy, we haven't seen the milky oil again.
-Rob
On 7:36:55 2005-08-17 Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about green oil. The oil was being
> drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the long time A&P
> mechanic said he encounters this phenomena roughly once every 100 oil
> changes or so. I went to his hangar next door to take a look and sure
> enough, the subject airplane was being drained of Phillips 20W-50W and
> the oil clearly appeared to be pale olive drab in color as it was
> draining out of the crankcase into a waste receptacle. At first I
> thought it might have been some sort of an illusion but the olive green
> color remained present as I sampled a drop or two on my fingers. I must
> admit I've never witnessed this before, but then I've not nearly as
> much experience with oil changes as this long time professional A&P who
> has often wondered why this sometimes occurs. So I have to ask members
> of this list who just might know the answer.........what sometimes
> causes engine oil to turn green?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Jet powered Cessna 150 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lyle" <lyleedda@telus.net>
Listers,
A news report out of Seattle stated that after a 150 smacked
into a floatplane over the city, floatplane landed OK whereas the 150 went into
the roof of a schoolhouse.
Breathless lady reporter then asked the on the scene reporter what was being done
to address the hazard of all that jet fuel that the Cessna spewed into the
school.
At least intrepid on the scene journalist stated that actually it was Avgas which
was way more volatile but did not say how hazard was being addressed.
My thought is that now that 150s have jet engines, would not RVs perform
like military craft for such a small conversion ?
do not archive
Austin.
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
The dye in 100LL can turn a greenish color. My guess is that you had some
fuel dilution from something. Possibly a bad fuel pump, or a really badly
flooded start.
The fuel boils off, but the dye stays in the oil.
Tailwinds,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Green Oil
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about green oil. The oil was being
> drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the long time A&P mechanic
> said he encounters this phenomena roughly once every 100 oil changes or
> so. I went to his hangar next door to take a look and sure enough, the
> subject airplane was being drained of Phillips 20W-50W and the oil clearly
> appeared to be pale olive drab in color as it was draining out of the
> crankcase into a waste receptacle. At first I thought it might have been
> some sort of an illusion but the olive green color remained present as I
> sampled a drop or two on my fingers. I must admit I've never witnessed
> this before, but then I've not nearly as much experience with oil changes
> as this long time professional A&P who has often wondered why this
> sometimes occurs. So I have to ask members of this list who just might
> know the answer.........what sometimes causes engine oil to turn green?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Control Surfaces Deflection Limits |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
All of the control surfaces on the plane have positive control stops at
the control surfaces. IOW they will stop at the angles listed whether
or not they are connected to the control rods / cables. The exceptions
to this are, the aileron down travel limit is reached when the opposite
aileron hits it's up stop, and the flaps stop when the actuator reaches
the end of it's travel.
Some will get away with not installing the aileron stops because the
bolt on the hinge bracket winds up hitting the hinge at just the right
angle. The rudder stops are required or you'll get the rudder into the
elevators. There are positive stops on the elevator for up and down.
These are bolted to the fuselage aft deck and stop the travel of the
elevator horns. The up elevator stop is not used on my airplane because
the control horn wound up hitting the aft bulkhead before it hit the
stop and the angle was about right. Van's said this was okay.
Cut the flange per the plans and it will work out.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Valovich, Paul wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
>The posting 17 Aug regarding elevator deflection raised a question. I
>thought the control deflection limits shown in the flight prep section
>of the builder's manual referred to connected controls with limits
>imposed by the stick / control rod assembly - not the unconnected
>physical stops caused by contact with other aircraft parts. I'm about to
>cut the HS aft spar flange to allow adequate elevator clearance. I am
>concerned about achieving minimum clearance, but figured the max
>limitation would be imposed by how tight I constructed "the system". Am
>I wrong?
>
>Paul Valovich
>
>Ridgecrest, CA
>
>RV-8A QB
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: sturdy@att.net
The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be held only until
8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
Stu McCurdy
Falcon Flight
FFI
RV-8
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene Regional
Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by Stu McCurdy and
<st1:PersonName>Mike Stewart</st1:PersonName> and will follow the sequence
previously used at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets
RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds from no
experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have excellent stick
and rudder skills. </
SPAN>We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be held only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
Stu McCurdy
Falcon Flight
FFI
RV-8
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Hey, that isn't the only jet 150 out there! I have an article about the
Washington DC incursion last spring and that plane was described as a
turboprop. These two high profile incidents involved turboprop 150s so
it makes me wonder how many are actually out there flying around.
MG
>--> RV-List message posted by: "lyle" <lyleedda@telus.net>
>
>Listers,
> A news report out of Seattle stated that after a 150 smacked
into a floatplane over the city, floatplane landed OK whereas the 150 went into
the roof of a schoolhouse.
>Breathless lady reporter then asked the on the scene reporter what was being done
to address the hazard of all that jet fuel that the Cessna spewed into the
school.
>At least intrepid on the scene journalist stated that actually it was Avgas which
was way more volatile but did not say how hazard was being addressed.
> My thought is that now that 150s have jet engines, would not RVs perform
like military craft for such a small conversion ?
>
>do not archive
>Austin.
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
Maybe the problem is that they *aren't* flying, or at least not very
well... They keep getting written up in accident reports.
-Rob
do not archive
On 10:52:01 2005-08-17 Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
>
> Hey, that isn't the only jet 150 out there! I have an article about
> the Washington DC incursion last spring and that plane was described
> as a turboprop. These two high profile incidents involved turboprop
> 150s so it makes me wonder how many are actually out there flying
> around. MG
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "lyle" <lyleedda@telus.net>
> >
> > Listers,
> > A news report out of Seattle stated that after a
> 150 smacked into a floatplane over the city, floatplane landed OK
> > whereas the 150 went into the roof of a schoolhouse. Breathless
> lady reporter then asked the on the scene reporter what was being done
> to address the hazard of all that jet fuel that the Cessna spewed into
> > the school. At least intrepid on the scene journalist stated that
> actually it was Avgas which was way more volatile but did not say how
> > hazard was being addressed. My thought is that now that
> 150s have jet engines, would not RVs perform like military craft for
> > such a small conversion ?
> > do not archive
> > Austin.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 22
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Linn,
What were the operational differences between the turbine and shop guns.
Did you have more orange peel with one or the other for instance? Which
brand equipment did you use? I'm considering whether to get a turbine
setup or a bigger compressor and air dryer.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Class
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
<shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
>Ive heard pro's say that hvlp is no good. Is this because they feel
>threatened? I know nothing about painting.
>
Jeff, I've painted with both 'old' guns, and HVLP. I've used the
turbine type HVLP and the shop air type. I like the HVLP for all the
reasons that have appeared on the list ..... good coverage, fine spray,
and less overspray/fog in the air. I want to use the airless type of
high pressure gun, but they're terribly pricey for a gun to do fine
work. The cheaper ones are great for painting walls, but not airplanes.
I haven't had any problems with cheap HVLP guns like from Harbor
Freight, and they worked almost as good as a $400 Binks that I
borrowed. Bear in mind that a robot wielding an HVLP gun puts a great
paint job on a car, so we should be able to come close with a great
paint job on our planes.
I will say that it takes more practice to get the air pressure set on
the HVLP guns than the old guns. Also proper attention to viscosity.
When you use 2 part urethanes or epoxy paints, you need to take the
time, 1/2 hour at the least, to let the mixed paint do it's chemical
thing. If you get in a hurry, it'll shoot strings and globs instead of
fine droplets. Induction they call it. Anyway, to answer your question
.... I like the HVLP guns ..... but I'm definitely not a pro ..... and
I'll paint my RV-10 with one.
Linn
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>235 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Class
refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
>ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips"
<mphill@gcctv.com>
>>
>>Hey Phil, Youre welcome to use my Accuspray Issac HVLP or my Binks BBR
>>high
>>pressure. Just let me know. I laid the canopy on the frame last night
and
>>am
>>trying to get the nerve to do a little cuttin, gasp!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What'd ya
>>think of Oshkosh.
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV-List: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
>>ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic
Club"
>>><sisson@consolidated.net>
>>>
>>>
>>>Do not archive
>>>
>>>This could be an informative class for those who want to paint their
>>>plane and don't know where to start....
>>> http://www.devilbiss.com/pdf/training/training_2005.pdf
>>>
>>>I am looking into buying a paint gun. It is going to be a Devilbiss
GFG
>>>670 ot JGA 670. Does anyone on the list have experience with these
guns
>>>that use "plus" technology? Which do you like best, the gravity or
the
>>>suction version? Please reply direct (off list) with your ideas..
>>>
>>>I presently use MBC guns. I guess it is time I come into the 21st
>>>century on paint guns..
>>>
>>>Phil in Illinois
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Jet powered Cessna 150 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
There's actually good reason to clarify it if you ever have an incident - the eco-cops
get bent over jet/kerosene/diesel spills and can mandate expensive clean-up
and remediation, i.e. replace the dirty dirt with clean dirt. The TNRCC
(TX eco-cops) mandates reporting for spills over 24 gal so never spill full tanks:-)
Greg
________________________________
Breathless lady reporter then asked the on the scene reporter what was being done
to address the hazard of all that jet fuel that the Cessna spewed into the
school.
At least intrepid on the scene journalist stated that actually it was Avgas which
was way more volatile but did not say how hazard was being addressed.
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Painting Class |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
>Linn,
>
>What were the operational differences between the turbine and shop guns.
>
The turbine has a heavy, large diameter hose attached to the gun. Makes
it a bie unwieldly. And your arm gets tired. The turbine also heats
the air which, I'm sure, causes the reducer to flash off a little before
the paint hits the metal.
>Did you have more orange peel with one or the other for instance?
>
I try not to get orange peel. I think orange peel is directly related
to paint viscosity. I thin (reduce) my paint so that it gets finer
droplets. The downside is that you can't put a real good coat of paint
without inviting runs. I also spray a light, random coat, wait 30
minutes, spray a cross coat, wait 30 minutes and spray the second cross
coat. This seems to give good paint thickness without runs. The 30
minutes seems to be about right, but 45 minutes is even better. Resist
the urge to spray on more paint and use up what's in the cup. It tears
my heart out to spend that much money on paint and then toss it. But I do.
> Which brand equipment did you use?
>
Not sure on the turbine ....... it was borrowed. I have a Binks 300
standard (old) gun (I think ..... have had it a long time) and a couple
of Harbor freight guns for the HVLP. I have both top and bottom feed
guns. Like them both the same. The top loaders can use a plastic bag
which cuts down on cleanup, and also allows you to pretty much spray in
any attitude once the air is removed from the bag. I haven't invested
in a SATA or other high priced gun because I'm not a professional
painter and no matter how much money I spend on a gun, I won't get that
much of a better paint job.
> I'm considering whether to get a turbine setup or a bigger compressor and air
dryer.
>
Go with the compressor. You'll use it for a lot more than painting, and
the turbine, with its drawbacks, will sit on the shelf when you're done.
Linn
do not archive.
>Pax,
>
>Ed Holyoke
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Class
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
>>
>>
><shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
>
>>Ive heard pro's say that hvlp is no good. Is this because they feel
>>threatened? I know nothing about painting.
>>
>>
>>
>Jeff, I've painted with both 'old' guns, and HVLP. I've used the
>turbine type HVLP and the shop air type. I like the HVLP for all the
>reasons that have appeared on the list ..... good coverage, fine spray,
>and less overspray/fog in the air. I want to use the airless type of
>high pressure gun, but they're terribly pricey for a gun to do fine
>work. The cheaper ones are great for painting walls, but not airplanes.
>
>I haven't had any problems with cheap HVLP guns like from Harbor
>Freight, and they worked almost as good as a $400 Binks that I
>borrowed. Bear in mind that a robot wielding an HVLP gun puts a great
>paint job on a car, so we should be able to come close with a great
>paint job on our planes.
>
>I will say that it takes more practice to get the air pressure set on
>the HVLP guns than the old guns. Also proper attention to viscosity.
>When you use 2 part urethanes or epoxy paints, you need to take the
>time, 1/2 hour at the least, to let the mixed paint do it's chemical
>thing. If you get in a hurry, it'll shoot strings and globs instead of
>fine droplets. Induction they call it. Anyway, to answer your question
>
>.... I like the HVLP guns ..... but I'm definitely not a pro ..... and
>I'll paint my RV-10 with one.
>Linn
>
>
>
>>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>>RV-6A, N915JD
>>235 hours
>>Chicago/Louisville
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Class
>>
>>
>refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
>
>
>>ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips"
>>>
>>>
><mphill@gcctv.com>
>
>
>>>Hey Phil, Youre welcome to use my Accuspray Issac HVLP or my Binks BBR
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>>>high
>>>pressure. Just let me know. I laid the canopy on the frame last night
>>>
>>>
>and
>
>
>>>am
>>>trying to get the nerve to do a little cuttin, gasp!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>
>>>
>What'd ya
>
>
>>>think of Oshkosh.
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
>>>
>>>
><sisson@consolidated.net>
>
>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: RV-List: Painting Class refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
>>>ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic
>>>>
>>>>
>Club"
>
>
>>>><sisson@consolidated.net>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Do not archive
>>>>
>>>>This could be an informative class for those who want to paint their
>>>>plane and don't know where to start....
>>>> http://www.devilbiss.com/pdf/training/training_2005.pdf
>>>>
>>>>I am looking into buying a paint gun. It is going to be a Devilbiss
>>>>
>>>>
>GFG
>
>
>>>>670 ot JGA 670. Does anyone on the list have experience with these
>>>>
>>>>
>guns
>
>
>>>>that use "plus" technology? Which do you like best, the gravity or
>>>>
>>>>
>the
>
>
>>>>suction version? Please reply direct (off list) with your ideas..
>>>>
>>>>I presently use MBC guns. I guess it is time I come into the 21st
>>>>century on paint guns..
>>>>
>>>>Phil in Illinois
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
version=3.0.2
--> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
Rob, milky oil is sure fire indication of water in it. I found that out
about 15 yrs ago when I bought an engine for my truck and didnt give any
thought to the oil haveing a milky collor, turnes out it had a blown head
gasket and water was giting into the oil. Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Green Oil
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
This happened on our club aircraft, a wooden homebuilt that runs an O-235.
Our club aircraft was frequently flown for 15-20 minute flights, and then
put away. People would come out, do their 5 circuits (short grass strip,
each circuit can be pretty quick) to stay current, put the plane away, and
go home. One day we changed the oil and while it's draining noticed that
it was all a uniform milky colour... It might have had a green tinge to it,
but my recollection was that it was more of a greyish off-white colour.
We concluded that the short runs of the engine weren't enough to get the
oil up to temperature for long enough to boil off any moisture that had
accumulated in the down time between flights, and the extra moisture in the
oil caused it to turn a milky colour. Two AME's that were asked about it
agreed that was the likely cause. They also agreed that in order to burn
off the impurities on each flight, the airplane needed to be flown for at
least half an hour.
Since then, we instituted a minimum half-hour billing per flight, so all
flights less than half an hour are billed for 0.5 hour anyway. That way,
we hope people will have an incentive to fly it for at least that long.
Since this policy, we haven't seen the milky oil again.
-Rob
On 7:36:55 2005-08-17 Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about green oil. The oil was being
> drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the long time A&P
> mechanic said he encounters this phenomena roughly once every 100 oil
> changes or so. I went to his hangar next door to take a look and sure
> enough, the subject airplane was being drained of Phillips 20W-50W and
> the oil clearly appeared to be pale olive drab in color as it was
> draining out of the crankcase into a waste receptacle. At first I
> thought it might have been some sort of an illusion but the olive green
> color remained present as I sampled a drop or two on my fingers. I must
> admit I've never witnessed this before, but then I've not nearly as
> much experience with oil changes as this long time professional A&P who
> has often wondered why this sometimes occurs. So I have to ask members
> of this list who just might know the answer.........what sometimes
> causes engine oil to turn green?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 |
version=3.0.2
--> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
BTW, the Pilot coped a plea and will have only a 10 month suspention, then
he has to take his tests over and back in the air. Meanwhile we have to deal
with the new laws forced uppon us by that Idiots stupidity, thank god, they
didnt include the proposed $100000 fine for us in the final bill. cjharlie
heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jet powered Cessna 150
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Hey, that isn't the only jet 150 out there! I have an article about the
Washington DC incursion last spring and that plane was described as a
turboprop. These two high profile incidents involved turboprop 150s so
it makes me wonder how many are actually out there flying around.
MG
>--> RV-List message posted by: "lyle" <lyleedda@telus.net>
>
>Listers,
> A news report out of Seattle stated that after a 150
> smacked into a floatplane over the city, floatplane landed OK whereas the
> 150 went into the roof of a schoolhouse.
>Breathless lady reporter then asked the on the scene reporter what was
>being done to address the hazard of all that jet fuel that the Cessna
>spewed into the school.
>At least intrepid on the scene journalist stated that actually it was Avgas
>which was way more volatile but did not say how hazard was being addressed.
> My thought is that now that 150s have jet engines, would not RVs
> perform like military craft for such a small conversion ?
>
>do not archive
>Austin.
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 |
version=3.0.2
--> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
Re previous ref to 150's, let me give you an interesting viewpiont. Last
year when I havd my cherokee 140 I looked up the regs on all the planes I
flew durring and shortly after training, (I didnt fly again for 35 yrs) Out
of 14 cherokee 140/180 all but one still flying. the 54 Apache still flying,
out of the 3 150s, one still flying, the 172, not flying.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Jet powered Cessna 150
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
There's actually good reason to clarify it if you ever have an incident -
the eco-cops get bent over jet/kerosene/diesel spills and can mandate
expensive clean-up and remediation, i.e. replace the dirty dirt with clean
dirt. The TNRCC (TX eco-cops) mandates reporting for spills over 24 gal so
never spill full tanks:-)
Greg
________________________________
Breathless lady reporter then asked the on the scene reporter what was being
done to address the hazard of all that jet fuel that the Cessna spewed into
the school.
At least intrepid on the scene journalist stated that actually it was Avgas
which was way more volatile but did not say how hazard was being addressed.
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
A friend and I purchased a Axis Citation system
http://www.axispro.com/citation/citation.html
to paint his Q-200 and my RV-6. We both thought this system was great.
It came with what I thought was a cheap plastic spray gun. This turned
out to be one of the best guns on the market. The AccuSpray Series 10
gun is a great product.
One of the nice features of the Axis system is you get a fresh air
turbine to provide you with fresh clean air.
I did purchase the full face mask which really helped a lot.
I realize that the cost may be an issue. One could always re-sell the
unit on the rv-list. I am sure your could get most of your money back.
I found that if you spray the first coat on lightly, wait 20 to 30
minutes then apply a second coat a little heavier with the same wait
time, then a third coat. You'll end up with no run (hopefully). It seems
to me that if you wait between the 1st and 2nd coat it gives the 1st
coat time to setup and provides adhesion for the 2nd coat which helps to
stop runs if you don't put on too heavy a 2nd and 3rd coat.
I used PPG Concept, wet sanded the final coat of paint and shot a clear
coat over the paint.
Be prepared to spend a lot of time buffing to get that perfect luster.
John L. Danielson
RV-6 sold
HRII in the works
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Class
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
>Linn,
>
>What were the operational differences between the turbine and shop
guns.
>
The turbine has a heavy, large diameter hose attached to the gun. Makes
it a bie unwieldly. And your arm gets tired. The turbine also heats
the air which, I'm sure, causes the reducer to flash off a little before
the paint hits the metal.
>Did you have more orange peel with one or the other for instance?
>
I try not to get orange peel. I think orange peel is directly related
to paint viscosity. I thin (reduce) my paint so that it gets finer
droplets. The downside is that you can't put a real good coat of paint
without inviting runs. I also spray a light, random coat, wait 30
minutes, spray a cross coat, wait 30 minutes and spray the second cross
coat. This seems to give good paint thickness without runs. The 30
minutes seems to be about right, but 45 minutes is even better. Resist
the urge to spray on more paint and use up what's in the cup. It tears
my heart out to spend that much money on paint and then toss it. But I
do.
> Which brand equipment did you use?
>
Not sure on the turbine ....... it was borrowed. I have a Binks 300
standard (old) gun (I think ..... have had it a long time) and a couple
of Harbor freight guns for the HVLP. I have both top and bottom feed
guns. Like them both the same. The top loaders can use a plastic bag
which cuts down on cleanup, and also allows you to pretty much spray in
any attitude once the air is removed from the bag. I haven't invested
in a SATA or other high priced gun because I'm not a professional
painter and no matter how much money I spend on a gun, I won't get that
much of a better paint job.
> I'm considering whether to get a turbine setup or a bigger compressor
and air dryer.
>
Go with the compressor. You'll use it for a lot more than painting, and
the turbine, with its drawbacks, will sit on the shelf when you're done.
Linn
do not archive.
>Pax,
>
>Ed Holyoke
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Class
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
>>
>>
><shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
>
>>Ive heard pro's say that hvlp is no good. Is this because they feel
>>threatened? I know nothing about painting.
>>
>>
>>
>Jeff, I've painted with both 'old' guns, and HVLP. I've used the
>turbine type HVLP and the shop air type. I like the HVLP for all the
>reasons that have appeared on the list ..... good coverage, fine spray,
>and less overspray/fog in the air. I want to use the airless type of
>high pressure gun, but they're terribly pricey for a gun to do fine
>work. The cheaper ones are great for painting walls, but not
airplanes.
>
>I haven't had any problems with cheap HVLP guns like from Harbor
>Freight, and they worked almost as good as a $400 Binks that I
>borrowed. Bear in mind that a robot wielding an HVLP gun puts a great
>paint job on a car, so we should be able to come close with a great
>paint job on our planes.
>
>I will say that it takes more practice to get the air pressure set on
>the HVLP guns than the old guns. Also proper attention to viscosity.
>When you use 2 part urethanes or epoxy paints, you need to take the
>time, 1/2 hour at the least, to let the mixed paint do it's chemical
>thing. If you get in a hurry, it'll shoot strings and globs instead of
>fine droplets. Induction they call it. Anyway, to answer your
question
>
>.... I like the HVLP guns ..... but I'm definitely not a pro ..... and
>I'll paint my RV-10 with one.
>Linn
>
>
>
>>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>>RV-6A, N915JD
>>235 hours
>>Chicago/Louisville
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Class
>>
>>
>refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
>
>
>>ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips"
>>>
>>>
><mphill@gcctv.com>
>
>
>>>Hey Phil, Youre welcome to use my Accuspray Issac HVLP or my Binks
BBR
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>>>high
>>>pressure. Just let me know. I laid the canopy on the frame last night
>>>
>>>
>and
>
>
>>>am
>>>trying to get the nerve to do a little cuttin, gasp!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>
>>>
>What'd ya
>
>
>>>think of Oshkosh.
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
>>>
>>>
><sisson@consolidated.net>
>
>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: RV-List: Painting Class
refid=0001.0A090202.4300CD4D.0074-A-,
>>>ip=209.107.238.85, so=2005-07-14 09:05:58, dmn=2005-05-20 17:56:59
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic
>>>>
>>>>
>Club"
>
>
>>>><sisson@consolidated.net>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Do not archive
>>>>
>>>>This could be an informative class for those who want to paint their
>>>>plane and don't know where to start....
>>>> http://www.devilbiss.com/pdf/training/training_2005.pdf
>>>>
>>>>I am looking into buying a paint gun. It is going to be a Devilbiss
>>>>
>>>>
>GFG
>
>
>>>>670 ot JGA 670. Does anyone on the list have experience with these
>>>>
>>>>
>guns
>
>
>>>>that use "plus" technology? Which do you like best, the gravity or
>>>>
>>>>
>the
>
>
>>>>suction version? Please reply direct (off list) with your
ideas..
>>>>
>>>>I presently use MBC guns. I guess it is time I come into the 21st
>>>>century on paint guns..
>>>>
>>>>Phil in Illinois
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Aerobatics training |
autolearn=no version=3.0.2
--> RV-List message posted by: "charlie heathco" <cheathco@gvtc.com>
I was sheduled with an insructor 2 times in Lvl ga, and first time winds were too
high, secodn time it was raining, so never got the training. Is there anyone
in the Boerne Tx area that I can work with? This guy was going to teach me in
his plane, but I would prefer to get the training in my 6a. I know it is said
that arobatics should be done single pilot, but I have been psgr in a 6a doing
4 point rolls, and Mike also has pix of him doing rolls with a psgr. In spite
of fact that whill building time for my Coml in 68, I did lots of loops, HH
stalls, high speed runns 25 feet off the ground in Maryland farm fields, low
level cross controled landings to a 300' stop, I cant seem to get up the courage
now to do anything beyond 90 deg banks, wing overs, and high G pullups.
(chicken charlie)
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Are these the strips that are used for the wing/fuse intersection fairing?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I
> can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a
> potential excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what
> these strips are used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the
> removable wingtips. I know Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people
> were breaking or stripping the small screws. What options have worked
> well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
They are probably cutting scraps that they send for general use.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 654 hours
Maple Grove, MN
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> --> <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
> Are these the strips that are used for the wing/fuse
> intersection fairing?
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
> >
> > All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my
> wing kit that I
> > can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am
> eyeballing them as a
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net
I have the same things flapping around. I used one of them -- I think -- to back
up a flap hinge...before deciding that was a waste of time and weight. The rest
I've put aside for wing tip use as you described.
Bob
St. Paul
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: ""
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
> seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
> excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
> used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
> Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the small
> screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
>
>
>
I have the same things flapping around. I used one of them -- I think -- to back
up a flap hinge...before deciding that was a waste of time and weight. The rest
I've put aside for wing tip use as you described.
Bob
St. Paul
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "" <TX_JAYHAWK@EXCITE.COM>
All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the small
screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
e,
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Scott,
Those sound like the wing intersection fairings. They close the gap
between the wing root ant the fuselage with a rubber gasket against the
fuselage. Since there are two and they are 48" by 3", that is my best
guess. I wouldn't cut them until you determine they are for something else.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Photo for presentation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> my all time favorites. You might also look closely and see the ailerons
> are neutral, stick is neutral in my lap and I don't have inverted oil.
> So all you geniuses... How can that be?
Sounds like the top of a loop to me.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
That is what I used these for on my RV6. Used #6 stainless flush head screws
and nutplates. The 1/2" wide strips went between the nutplate and the
wingtip. My Aeroflash powerpacks are in each wing tip so needed removable
tips.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
N296JC RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I
can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a
potential excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these
strips are used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable
wingtips. I know Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking
or stripping the small screws. What options have worked well for
people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Scott,
Sorry, at .5X48 they couldn't serve for wing root fairings
RHDudley
Richard Dudley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
>Scott,
>Those sound like the wing intersection fairings. They close the gap
>between the wing root ant the fuselage with a rubber gasket against the
>fuselage. Since there are two and they are 48" by 3", that is my best
>guess. I wouldn't cut them until you determine they are for something else.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>-6A flying
>
>tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>>
>>All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Kyle, Given they are only 0.5" wide, it seems they are too narrow for an intersection fairing. Also, since they are marked specifically (AS3x020x0.5x48) on the label, I don't think they are scrap. Most of my scrap pieces have been marked "trim bundle" or something to that effect. Thanks for the feedback...sounds like I need to try and get ahold of Vans. Scott--- On Wed 08/17, Kyle Boatright kboatright1@comcast.net wrote:From: Kyle Boatright [mailto: kboatright1@comcast.net]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 18:47:22 -0400Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips-- RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" Are these the strips that are used for the wing/fuse intersection fairing?KB----- Original Message ----- From: To: Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips -- RV-List message posted by: "" All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | IO-360-A1B6D/A3B6D in a -7A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Farner <sfarner@gmail.com>
While searching through the archives, I saw a few -8s that use this
engine where the dual mag will fit into the stock engine mount. Does
anybody know if there would be any clearance issues on a -7A (i.e. are
the 7 & 8 mounts sufficiently different, and/or will differences in
the nose wheel mount get in the way)?
Thanks,
--
Scott
www.scottfarner.com
RV-7A Fuse
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Allison <stevea@svpal.org>
Scott,
These are the strips to use as nutplate backup on the wingtips. (They
are not the wing to fuselage fairings as others have suggested. Those
parts are .025 thick, wider than 1/2" and longer than 48".) "The List"
on Van's website lists them as
AS3-020X1/2X48 ALUM TIP BACK STRIP $2.05
There should be 4 of them (_.020" thick, 0.5" x 48 "_). I don't
remember what screw size the plans call for, other than to list screws
and nutplates as an option to the 1/8" flush blind rivets.
Cleveland sells a kit of 100 each #4 flush screws (either stainless or
cad plated steel), nutplates, and 200 soft rivets. A #4 flush screw
head is about the size of the 1/8" flush blind rivet head.
After looking at lots of RV wing tips and #4, #6 and #8 screw heads, I
decided on #6 screws. My decision was based on the small (#1) size
Phillips drive required for a #4 screw, compared to a medium (#2)
Phillips drive in the #6 screw. I just thought it would be way too
tedious to install and (very lightly) torque #4 screws ( 40+ of them per
wingtip) compared to #6 screws. The smaller screws are easier to cross
thread and strip threads or heads, compared to larger ones.
You can either order the kit from Cleveland (if you decide to go with #4
screws) or order 100 nutplates and 100 stainless or cad screws from
Van's, Aircraft Spruce, etc., in whatever size you decide. (Order 120
screws if you plan on planting some of them on the shop floor. :-) )
FYI, I did not use the soft (A) rivets either. I used the standard
hardness (AD) rivets. No problems with fiberglass or epoxy cracking
during setting.
Good Luck,
Steve
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Scott,
The packing list states (1)ea in quantity, then off to the side states 4 per?
I can't remember the use... I will look around the shop.
Call sometime when you have a chance. Hope the jobs going well!!
Darrell
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Allison
Scott,
These are the strips to use as nutplate backup on the wingtips. (They
are not the wing to fuselage fairings as others have suggested. Those
parts are .025 thick, wider than 1/2" and longer than 48".) "The List"
on Van's website lists them as
AS3-020X1/2X48 ALUM TIP BACK STRIP $2.05
There should be 4 of them (_.020" thick, 0.5" x 48 "_). I don't
remember what screw size the plans call for, other than to list screws
and nutplates as an option to the 1/8" flush blind rivets.
Cleveland sells a kit of 100 each #4 flush screws (either stainless or
cad plated steel), nutplates, and 200 soft rivets. A #4 flush screw
head is about the size of the 1/8" flush blind rivet head.
After looking at lots of RV wing tips and #4, #6 and #8 screw heads, I
decided on #6 screws. My decision was based on the small (#1) size
Phillips drive required for a #4 screw, compared to a medium (#2)
Phillips drive in the #6 screw. I just thought it would be way too
tedious to install and (very lightly) torque #4 screws ( 40+ of them per
wingtip) compared to #6 screws. The smaller screws are easier to cross
thread and strip threads or heads, compared to larger ones.
You can either order the kit from Cleveland (if you decide to go with #4
screws) or order 100 nutplates and 100 stainless or cad screws from
Van's, Aircraft Spruce, etc., in whatever size you decide. (Order 120
screws if you plan on planting some of them on the shop floor. :-) )
FYI, I did not use the soft (A) rivets either. I used the standard
hardness (AD) rivets. No problems with fiberglass or epoxy cracking
during setting.
Good Luck,
Steve
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: ""
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the small
screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
>
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Would a t-37 manual be ok or are there a lot of differences due to the prop?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <sturdy@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
> --> RV-List message posted by: sturdy@att.net
>
> The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
> Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously used
> at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type
> aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
> considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds
> from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have
> excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3
> no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced.
> Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and
> studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well
> as to make your motel reservations, go here
> http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> held only until
> 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>
> Stu McCurdy
> Falcon Flight
> FFI
> RV-8
>
> <!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
> <!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
>
>
> The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by Stu
> McCurdy and <st1:PersonName>Mike Stewart</st1:PersonName> and will follow
> the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics.
> The clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration
> and airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all
> formation backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all
> registrants should have excellent stick and rudder skills. </
> SPAN>We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium
> experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to
> be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read clinic
> info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here
> http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> held only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>
>
> Stu McCurdy
>
>
> Falcon Flight
>
>
> FFI
>
>
> RV-8
>
>
> <!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Scott,
Looks like the strips make W-728, page 12 of the plans diagram H-H...
Darrell
<tx_jayhawk@excite.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: ""
Kyle, Given they are only 0.5" wide, it seems they are too narrow for an intersection fairing. Also, since they are marked specifically (AS3x020x0.5x48) on the label, I don't think they are scrap. Most of my scrap pieces have been marked "trim bundle" or something to that effect. Thanks for the feedback...sounds like I need to try and get ahold of Vans. Scott--- On Wed 08/17, Kyle Boatright kboatright1@comcast.net wrote:From: Kyle Boatright [mailto: kboatright1@comcast.net]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 18:47:22 -0400Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips-- RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" Are these the strips that are used for the wing/fuse intersection fairing?KB----- Original Message ----- From: To: Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips -- RV-List message posted by: "" All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Shaping the elevator counter weights |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
I am getting near the end of elevator assembly (at last). There is a note in
the plans to shape the counter weight to match the retaining skin. I was
scratching my head about the best way to do that. It looks like a belt sander
would be easiest, but I wonder about lead dust (toxicity issue) flying all
around. How have some of you done this?
Also, they say to trim off part of the counterweight to balance the elevator,
but not until you have the elevator painted. should I trim some and do the
final balance after painting or leave it and do it all at once?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | [Fwd: RE: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder stops -7] |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RE: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder stops -7
From: Rene Bubberman <rene@fabrique3d.nl>
We made an alternative rudder stop, based on Jeff Bordeleon's. Works perfect
and not visible from the outside.
Some pictures at:
http://websites.expercraft.com/PHVII/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=3249
Kind regards,
Ren Bubberman
PH-VII, RV-7 finishing
http://websites.expercraft.com/PHVII/
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com [mailto:RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com]Namens
Bedrock
Verzonden: maandag 15 augustus 2005 3:36
Aan: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Onderwerp: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder stops -7
Yes, my carefully built to the drawing stops didn't work at all so I made
new ones that did. Then I did it again when I built the new rudder. Leave
'em long and trim to fit.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "rv7ator" <rv7ator@yahoo.com>
To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2005 12:28 PM
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder stops -7
> After re-checking the dimensions and the mounting position for the
> rudder stop it still allows the rudder to swing too far in both
> directions before contacting the rudder horn. The rudder barely
> touches the elevator in one direction and almost touches it in the
> other. I am supposed to have one and one eight inch clearance instead.
>
> Has any one had the same problem? Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ed in Birmingham
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
SPONSORED LINKS Plane tickets Charter plane Aviation school
Aviation headset
--
a.. Visit your group "RV7and7A" on the web.
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Service.
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUILAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
Piano hinges, easy to install and remove and looks great!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 47
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney@excite.com>
I have found that the oil in my Mooney appears to be somwhat green in color and, of course,more viscous when cold and more than 25 hours since change Warming up the engine by flying thins the oil and the green color disappears. Ken Dominy--- On Wed 08/17, Rob Prior (rv7) rv7@b4.ca wrote:From: Rob Prior (rv7) [mailto: rv7@b4.ca]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 08:44:49 -0700Subject: Re: RV-List: Green Oil-- RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" This happened on our club aircraft, a wooden homebuilt that runs an O-235. Our club aircraft was frequently flown for 15-20 minute flights, and thenput away. People would come out, do their 5 circuits (short grass strip,each circuit can be pretty quick) to stay current, put the plane away, andgo home. One day we changed the oil and while it's draining noticed thatit was all a uniform milky colour... It might have had a green tinge to it,but my recollection was that it was more of a greyish off-white
colour.We concluded that the short runs of the engine weren't enough to get theoil
up to temperature for long enough to boil off any moisture that hadaccumulated
in the down time between flights, and the extra moisture in theoil caused
it to turn a milky colour. Two AME's that were asked about itagreed that was
the likely cause. They also agreed that in order to burnoff the impurities on
each flight, the airplane needed to be flown for atleast half an hour.Since then,
we instituted a minimum half-hour billing per flight, so allflights less than
half an hour are billed for 0.5 hour anyway. That way,we hope people will
have an incentive to fly it for at least that long. Since this policy, we haven't
seen the milky oil again.-RobOn 7:36:55 2005-08-17 Rick Galati wrote: -- RV-List
message posted by: Rick Galati Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about
green oil. The oil was being drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the
long time AP mechanic
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Those strips are for just what you surmised. Use them to back up nut plates
on the fiberglass parts that you intend to attach with screws.
FWIW I used #6 screws and nutplates for my wingtips. They had to be
removable for access to the strobe power packs. Works fine and looks OK to me.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 118 hours
Message 49
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--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
There is an instruction near the end of the elevator prep that says "bevel E
713 locally where E-713 overlaps the spar and rib flanges to provide a smooth
transition between the counterbalance skin and the E-701 elevator skin." What
does this mean?
I am trying to figure out if I should thin E 713 or what. What have you all
done?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
The T-34 Formation Flight Manual is THE only manual that will do. It is the
STANDARD adopted by all FAA Approved Formation flight agencies.
I never saw a T-37 formation fight manual. Is there such a thing?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,749 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Would a t-37 manual be ok or are there a lot of differences due to the prop?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <sturdy@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
> --> RV-List message posted by: sturdy@att.net
>
> The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
> Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously used
> at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type
> aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
> considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds
> from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have
> excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3
> no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced.
> Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and
> studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well
> as to make your motel reservations, go here
> http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> held only until
> 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>
> Stu McCurdy
> Falcon Flight
> FFI
> RV-8
>
> <!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
> <!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
>
>
> The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
Stu
> McCurdy and <st1:PersonName>Mike Stewart</st1:PersonName> and will follow
> the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics.
> The clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar
configuration
> and airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all
> formation backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all
> registrants should have excellent stick and rudder skills. </
> SPAN>We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium
> experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to
> be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read
clinic
> info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here
> http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> held only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>
>
> Stu McCurdy
>
>
> Falcon Flight
>
>
> FFI
>
>
> RV-8
>
>
> <!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
>
Message 51
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RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | First Flight Video |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
Sorry to cross post this but...
First Flight Video
I though you might get a kick out of this video. If anything,
mayby it will spur those of you still building to spend more
time with your project.
A HUGE thanks goes out to Dan C., Dave K., David R. and my
Mom and Dad for helping me make this one of the most memorable
moments of my life. And a big Thank You to all of you who made
this possible. Of course I would list all of you but then you
would have to scroll the page down about 32 times. Thanks so much
for your invaluable insight and experience.
I hope to meet up with you current flyers at a future flying
event, once my 40 hrs. are in the bag.
Scroll down to the bottom of the page for the link to the video.
Again, if you have dial up, you're toast.
http://www.rv7-a.com/phase_1.htm#First%20Flight%20Video
or go here so see a few other videos of the 447RV progress.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos.htm
And if any of you know what the name/author of the sound
tracks are, you win the grand prize. Send me an email with
your guess... I'm sure some of you movie fanatics will guess
right.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
FLYING, HA!
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
I used a big honkin' file to shape it - worked fine. I did
wear a respirator, but I'm a paranoid kind of guy.
I asked Van's about balancing the elevators, and they
recommended just putting the counterweights on, and not
worrying about balancing it. A bit to heavy is apparently
not a problem.
Best regards,
Mickey
MLWynn@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am getting near the end of elevator assembly (at last). There is a note in
> the plans to shape the counter weight to match the retaining skin. I was
> scratching my head about the best way to do that. It looks like a belt sander
> would be easiest, but I wonder about lead dust (toxicity issue) flying all
> around. How have some of you done this?
>
> Also, they say to trim off part of the counterweight to balance the elevator,
> but not until you have the elevator painted. should I trim some and do the
> final balance after painting or leave it and do it all at once?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8, Empennage
> San Ramon, California
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
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