Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:57 AM - RV-8 Canopy Skirt (Kyle Boatright)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: RV-8 Canopy Skirt (Mickey Coggins)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: Trutrak ADI (AYRES, JIMMY L)
4. 06:12 AM - Re: ventilated wheel fairing? (Scott Bilinski)
5. 07:24 AM - Flying RV-6A for sale (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
6. 08:13 AM - Re: Cowl Flap (Bob)
7. 08:35 AM - Re: Looking for a RV6/Baker and Stewart e-mail address (Ron Lee)
8. 09:30 AM - RV-8 For Sale in North Carolina ()
9. 10:00 AM - Re: Sliding canopy question (Phil Birkelbach)
10. 10:41 AM - Re: Sliding canopy question (Stein Bruch)
11. 10:54 AM - Abilene Formation Clinic (sturdy@att.net)
12. 11:28 AM - Wingtip Wiring Length ()
13. 12:16 PM - Re: Wingtip Wiring Length (Ralph E. Capen)
14. 01:45 PM - Re: Wingtip Wiring Length (Phil Birkelbach)
15. 02:42 PM - RV Forum in NY & Mike Seager Lessons at KFZY Sept 11 (rv6160hp@aol.com)
16. 02:56 PM - Re: Fall RV Fly-In (jdwilson16)
17. 04:07 PM - Re: Sliding canopy question (D.Bristol)
18. 07:05 PM - Re: Sliding canopy question (Stan Jones)
19. 08:10 PM - Re: Sliding canopy question (Sportypilot)
20. 09:51 PM - Anyone Know The Story Behind This Crash? (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
21. 10:31 PM - Re: Anyone Know The Story Behind This Crash? (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Skirt |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Someone who monitors the list, but isn't subscribed sent me the following question.
Since I'm not familiar with the RV-8 canopy, I thought I'd post it to the
list and the RV-8 folks could offer a helping hand...
>My problem is not with my RV8 canopy frame, but is with the aft skirt and about
24" forward of rear of skirt is where the largest gap occurs. Here the >skirt/fuselage
gap is nearly one half inch and that will cause quite a draft and look
bad.
>An experienced local builder who has built the total RV range (except a nearly
completed RV10) tells me that the skirt is badly moulded. A fibreglas expert
says the >rear part of the skirt must be remade to conform to the shape of the
fuselage.
>The skirt is clecoed at present and I have not fastened it for obvious reasons.
The skirt fits well elsewhere.
Any guidance would be helpful.
KB
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Skirt |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Someone who monitors the list, but isn't subscribed sent me the
> following question. ...
>
>> My problem is not with my RV8 canopy frame, but is with the aft
>> skirt and about 24" forward of rear of skirt is where the largest
>> gap occurs. Here the >skirt/fuselage gap is nearly one half inch
>> and that will cause quite a draft and look bad.
>
>> An experienced local builder who has built the total RV range
>> (except a nearly completed RV10) tells me that the skirt is badly
>> moulded. A fibreglas expert says the >rear part of the skirt must
>> be remade to conform to the shape of the fuselage.
>
>
>> The skirt is clecoed at present and I have not fastened it for
>> obvious reasons. The skirt fits well elsewhere.
>
>
> Any guidance would be helpful.
It sounds like the help he received matches my understanding of
the canopy skirt. I'm working on mine now, as a background task,
and it fits perfectly up until about the last 12-14 inches from
the back.
At Oshkosh this year I spent a lot of time talking to every RV8
builder I could find to ask them how they got a decent fix on
the canopy skirt. Almost every single builder said this was
probably the most difficult part of the entire kit. Many
tried hard to make it work with a heat gun, only to give up
and either backfill with a microballon slurry or cut the whole
rear area off and redo it from scratch.
I'm about to start cutting mine to bits and redo it, but I
want to get more experience with fiberglass first. I'm now
practicing on my various tips. I may even do the windscreen
first.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES@entergy.com>
I flew up Benton, Arkansas last week and visited with the folks at Trutrak. I
found the entire staff to be very knowledgeable and friendly, especially Jim (one
of the owners) who took time out to explain the operation of the ADI pictorial
pilot II. I was also given a tour of the MFG facility. I was very impressed
and I placed my order on the spot. They also have a wiring harness you can
order with all of the connectors pre-wired and the wires labeled and cut to
the proper length. I ordered one of those also. I give Trutrak an A+!
Jimmy Ayres
RV7A QB
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: ventilated wheel fairing? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I have seen this at Reno. The trailing edge of the wheel pant was cut off
leaving a 1/4 inch wide opening to let the air out. BUT, if you do this you
increase airflow through the wheel pants and this will cause drag.
At 08:23 PM 8/26/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>A friend of mine who is building a Varieze made a comment today about
>ventilating a wheel fairing to aid in cooling the brakes. The idea
>would be to cut a few horizontal slits an inch or two long in the top of
>the fairing aft of the wheel. I've never heard of this being done.
>Sounds like it might work, though.
>
>Has any one ever seen or heard of a ventilated wheel fairing?
>--
>Tom Sargent
>RV-6A, cowling.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 5
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Subject: | Flying RV-6A for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Howdy folks,
Well the time has come for me to put the RV-6A up for sale. This plane
has literally changed my life and it can yours too. My RV-8 is flying
great now and I got that "special photo" I was holding out for before
putting the 6A up for sale. You all know the plane. It has made a couple
of appearances around the country. Web site with details here:
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/forsale/index.htm
Enjoy,
Mike
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
At 09:30 AM 8/27/05, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
>No hot start problems at all?
>
In regards to cowl flaps I do not think they would be effective for
problems with hot starts. Yes my engine is hard to start after shut down
for more than 10-15 minutes, due to heat soaking of the fuel injection
lines above the engine.
Since heat rises, and the lines are so close to the engine, it takes very
little heat to vaporize the fuel in the lines going from the spider to the
injectors. Traditional cowl flaps, while the aircraft is on the ground
with engine off and the aircraft not moving would not be helpful in my
opinion, but without engineering experimental data,that is just a guess on
my part.
I have seen people put flaps on the top of the cowl just above the
cylinders. They automatically open when the airflow through the plenum
ceases (gravity control). This allows heat to radiate directly through the
top of the cowl. I think this would work better for cooling the injector
lines, but I don't think it would solve the hot start problem. Anybody out
there who knows for sure, please respond.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Looking for a RV6/Baker and Stewart e-mail address |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
At 05:40 PM 8/28/2005, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
>
> If anyone knows the e-mail addy and/or phone number for Jim Baker,
>Goodland, KS or John Stewart, Burlington, CO would you please send them
>to me at: rv6fly@bresnan.net.
Bob, go to www.airnav.com and get the FBO number at Goodland. They
would have his phone number.
Ron Lee
do not archive
Message 8
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Subject: | RV-8 For Sale in North Carolina |
--> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
Listers,
My RV-8 N844RF is for sale on Trade-A-Plane. Price is
$108,000. Details on T-A-P or email me Scott@Keadle.com. I
think I'm going to build an RV-8 myself...
Scott Keadle
14A Lake Norman, NC
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
I doubt that you'd get any results from that. I'd take the aft skirts
off and remake them from fiberglass. Then there is no preload at all.
If I had to do it all over again I'd go straight to fiberglass instead
of fighting with the metal skirts and then winding up with fiberglass
anyway.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Travis Hamblen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>
>I have my sliding canopy all done now, but do not like the way the aft part
>of the canopy bows away from the fuselage. I am seeing about 1" - 1.5" of
>bowing between the aft part (where the side skirt and aft skirt are joined
>together) and the fuselage. It was a GREAT fit before the aft skirts were
>riveted on, but then the tension that the aft skirt put on the canopy sides
>caused this bowing. I was thinking of using some straps to try to SLOWLY
>bend the aft part of the canopy inward about 1.5" on each side of the aft
>only part of the canopy. I live in Las Vegas and it is VERY hot this time
>of year so I don't think I have to worry much about the Plexiglas being
>cold. I was thinking that I could slowly (over a day or so) add more
>tension to some ratcheting type straps wrapped around the aft part of the
>canopy. I wondered if anyone has tried this in the past and had any
>success. Also considering trying to just bend the side skirts inward a
>little, but then there will be a little more of a gap created in the aft
>skirt? Any advice is much appreciated.
>
>Travis
>RV-7A
>Finishing the finishing kit
>
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Message 11
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Subject: | Abilene Formation Clinic |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: sturdy@att.net
As previously submitted, Mike Stewart and I are conducting a formation clinic in conjunction with the Big Country (Abilene) Airfest at KABI on 23-25 September. Although response has been good, there are still openings available for those with excellent stick and rudder skills who would like to begin or improve formation skills. Go to http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html to read up on the clinic, register for the clinic, and to make motel reservations. The block of rooms will be released on 8 Sep.
The clinic targets pilots of RV aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration/airspeeds
will be considered. We will cut off registration when we get the right
numbers and mix of low, medium, high formation experience.
Stu McCurdy
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
As previously submitted,Mike Stewart and I are conducting a formation clinic in conjunction with the Big Country (Abilene) Airfest at KABI on 23-25 September. Although response has been good, there are still openings available for those with excellent stick and rudder skills who would like to begin or improve formation skills. Go to http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.htmlto read up on the clinic, register for the clinic, and to make motel reservations. The block of rooms will be released on 8 Sep.
The clinic targets pilots ofRV aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration/airspeeds
will be considered. We will cut off registration when we get the right
numbers and mix of low, medium, high formation experience.
Stu McCurdy
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 12
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Subject: | Wingtip Wiring Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
I would appreciate feedback from the list on the approximate length of wiring
runs they have used from the wingtip to the panel on an RV7A. I don't plan a
disconnect at the wing root, and I'll likely add about a 1 foot service loop at
the panel. I am assuming 20' per side should be sufficient? Also, outside
of the landing lights....anyone determine a need for 16 AWG wire? Apologies
for the easy questions (if I had planned)...trying to get wire ordereed today
but don't have all my info handy. Thanks,Scott
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Wingtip Wiring Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I used disconnects at the wing root for ease of construction - I haven't assembled
yet.
I have my wings wired and closed - when I put them together, I'll finish the (dis)connectors.
This also allowed me to test my wiring / grounds - etc and fix (had to rerun a
wire) while it was easier.....
My .02,
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
From: tx_jayhawk@excite.com
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip Wiring Length
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
I would appreciate feedback from the list on the approximate length of wiring
runs they have used from the wingtip to the panel on an RV7A. I don't plan a
disconnect at the wing root, and I'll likely add about a 1 foot service loop at
the panel. I am assuming 20' per side should be sufficient? Also, outside
of the landing lights....anyone determine a need for 16 AWG wire? Apologies
for the easy questions (if I had planned)...trying to get wire ordereed today
but don't have all my info handy. Thanks,Scott
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Wingtip Wiring Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
IIRC it was about 12' hanging out of the wing root and that seemed to be
about right. I had some laying on the hangar floor after the lights
were hooked up. I don't know how much it took to get from the wing root
to the panel. Probably 8-10' or so. It would depend on how you ran the
wire, and where it was going on the panel. I suspect 20' would be
cutting it close but it might be okay. Order more than you think you'll
need. You will find a use for it, and then still have to re-order. :-)
Use 16 AWG wire if you are planning anything much higher than ~75
watts. I used 16 AWG for my landing lights and they are 55 watts but I
want the option of upgrading them to 100 watts in the future if I decide
too.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> I would appreciate feedback from the list on the approximate length of wiring
runs they have used from the wingtip to the panel on an RV7A. I don't plan a
disconnect at the wing root, and I'll likely add about a 1 foot service loop
at the panel. I am assuming 20' per side should be sufficient? Also, outside
of the landing lights....anyone determine a need for 16 AWG wire? Apologies
for the easy questions (if I had planned)...trying to get wire ordereed today
but don't have all my info handy. Thanks,Scott
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | RV Forum in NY & Mike Seager Lessons at KFZY Sept 11 |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6160hp@aol.com
RV Listers remember...another fly in forum in NY is fast approaching go to:
WWW>EAACHAPTER486>com
Find link regarding the RV Forum Weekend of September 9, 10 & 11 2005
ALSO NOTE, training in Factory RV7
Mike Seager flying spots still available
Contact
cwarner@twcny.rr.com
For flight times and to secure your spot.
See you there, respectfully
David McManmon
RV6
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "jdwilson16" <jdwilson16@cox.net>
Come to COPPERSTATE. Oct 6-9
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Marshall
Subject: RV-List: Fall RV Fly-In
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
Since Van's Homecoming has been cancelled this year, is anyone interested in
a fly-in somewhere in the NW in Sep or Oct? We have a great little airport
on Flathead Lake in NW Montana, Polson 8S1. It is possible we could host
something, unless someone has a better idea. We just held our 7th annual
fly-in last Sat.....great success.
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D.Bristol" <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
I hope that new builders don't get the wrong idea about sliders, it IS
possible to get a good fitting installation without fiberglass or
compound curved sheet metal, but it has to be done correctly from the
very start.
Start with the fuselage riveted, not clecoed so there won't be any
surprises after the riveting is done.
The frame has to fit without the plexi installed, if it doesn't, you'll
never make it fit right later. I had to do quite a bit of bending
(using a torch) to make it fit and it's a lot of work to get it right
but it's mandatory if you want a good canopy fit. DO NOT try to bend it
after the plexi is installed, it can only come to grief ($$$$).
The rear skirts are FLAT sheets of metal, there are no compound curves
necessary (if the frame fits).
The side skirts are a different issue, they need to bend 2 different
directions at once to fit properly (mine don't), but there is much
discussion in the archives on this and I think that the newer kits
address this issue (mine's a -6).
Bottom line, if you already have a problem, then of course you have to
fix it the best you can, but if you haven't started yet, pick every
brain you can on the subject before you start, and remember, if the
frame doesn't fit the fuselage properly, nothing else will fit either.
Dave -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Phil Birkelbach wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>I doubt that you'd get any results from that. I'd take the aft skirts
>off and remake them from fiberglass. Then there is no preload at all.
>If I had to do it all over again I'd go straight to fiberglass instead
>of fighting with the metal skirts and then winding up with fiberglass
>anyway.
>
>Godspeed,
>
>Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
>http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
>Travis Hamblen wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>>
>>I have my sliding canopy all done now, but do not like the way the aft part
>>of the canopy bows away from the fuselage. I am seeing about 1" - 1.5" of
>>bowing between the aft part (where the side skirt and aft skirt are joined
>>together) and the fuselage. It was a GREAT fit before the aft skirts were
>>riveted on, but then the tension that the aft skirt put on the canopy sides
>>caused this bowing. I was thinking of using some straps to try to SLOWLY
>>bend the aft part of the canopy inward about 1.5" on each side of the aft
>>only part of the canopy. I live in Las Vegas and it is VERY hot this time
>>of year so I don't think I have to worry much about the Plexiglas being
>>cold. I was thinking that I could slowly (over a day or so) add more
>>tension to some ratcheting type straps wrapped around the aft part of the
>>canopy. I wondered if anyone has tried this in the past and had any
>>success. Also considering trying to just bend the side skirts inward a
>>little, but then there will be a little more of a gap created in the aft
>>skirt? Any advice is much appreciated.
>>
>>Travis
>>RV-7A
>>Finishing the finishing kit
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
Yes, Phil is right.
Going straight to fiberglass will save you a lot of grief.
You can position the glass exactly where you want it, and end up with a good
job.
Stan J.
-------Original Message-------
From: Phil Birkelbach
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sliding canopy question
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
I doubt that you'd get any results from that. I'd take the aft skirts
off and remake them from fiberglass. Then there is no preload at all.
If I had to do it all over again I'd go straight to fiberglass instead
of fighting with the metal skirts and then winding up with fiberglass
anyway.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Travis Hamblen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>
>I have my sliding canopy all done now, but do not like the way the aft part
>of the canopy bows away from the fuselage. I am seeing about 1" - 1.5" of
>bowing between the aft part (where the side skirt and aft skirt are joined
>together) and the fuselage. It was a GREAT fit before the aft skirts were
>riveted on, but then the tension that the aft skirt put on the canopy sides
>caused this bowing. I was thinking of using some straps to try to SLOWLY
>bend the aft part of the canopy inward about 1.5" on each side of the aft
>only part of the canopy. I live in Las Vegas and it is VERY hot this time
>of year so I don't think I have to worry much about the Plexiglas being
>cold. I was thinking that I could slowly (over a day or so) add more
>tension to some ratcheting type straps wrapped around the aft part of the
>canopy. I wondered if anyone has tried this in the past and had any
>success. Also considering trying to just bend the side skirts inward a
>little, but then there will be a little more of a gap created in the aft
>skirt? Any advice is much appreciated.
>
>Travis
>RV-7A
>Finishing the finishing kit
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Sliding canopy question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
I don't know, mine fits pretty tight with the rear skirts, I have maybe 16th
of an inch were they meet on the back side
but it works if the frame is setup from the start.. I didn't have to heat
anything or cut the frame, one thing helped alot is
the tip/up slider add on helped me get the skirts better as it allowed me to
lift the canopy for drilling the skirt.. I recommend it..
Its not that bad doing it like the plans say.. mine closes and opens with
one hand, seals good enough and I am very happy with it..
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sliding canopy question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
>
> Yes, Phil is right.
> Going straight to fiberglass will save you a lot of grief.
> You can position the glass exactly where you want it, and end up with a
> good
> job.
> Stan J.
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Phil Birkelbach
> Date: 08/30/05 05:32:45
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sliding canopy question
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> I doubt that you'd get any results from that. I'd take the aft skirts
> off and remake them from fiberglass. Then there is no preload at all.
> If I had to do it all over again I'd go straight to fiberglass instead
> of fighting with the metal skirts and then winding up with fiberglass
> anyway.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> Travis Hamblen wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>>
>>I have my sliding canopy all done now, but do not like the way the aft
>>part
>>of the canopy bows away from the fuselage. I am seeing about 1" - 1.5" of
>>bowing between the aft part (where the side skirt and aft skirt are joined
>>together) and the fuselage. It was a GREAT fit before the aft skirts were
>>riveted on, but then the tension that the aft skirt put on the canopy
>>sides
>>caused this bowing. I was thinking of using some straps to try to SLOWLY
>>bend the aft part of the canopy inward about 1.5" on each side of the aft
>>only part of the canopy. I live in Las Vegas and it is VERY hot this time
>>of year so I don't think I have to worry much about the Plexiglas being
>>cold. I was thinking that I could slowly (over a day or so) add more
>>tension to some ratcheting type straps wrapped around the aft part of the
>>canopy. I wondered if anyone has tried this in the past and had any
>>success. Also considering trying to just bend the side skirts inward a
>>little, but then there will be a little more of a gap created in the aft
>>skirt? Any advice is much appreciated.
>>
>>Travis
>>RV-7A
>>Finishing the finishing kit
>>
>>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Anyone Know The Story Behind This Crash? |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Hi Listers,
Does anyone know the story behind this aircraft and the crash? Almost
looks like an RC model especially given the cameraman's rather
unemotional comment following the crash. Kind of looks like the
elevator may have been hooked up backwards following a rebuild.
http://media4.big-boys.com/content/oldplanecrash.wmv
Any information on this video would be intersting.
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 21
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Subject: | Anyone Know The Story Behind This Crash? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
Looks to me like a CG (Computer Graphics) event. I have no idea what
type of plane this is but of you pause the player to take a close look
at the plane it is just too smooth, no windows, no doors, nothing looks
right (to me). If you also notice right at impact the POV camera drops
down and then returns to the crash where there is fire. From my limited
experience it is much easier to place the "fire" plugin's in motion vs.
having to start the CG fire from scratch.
Mr. Suspicious
RV-4
200 Hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Subject: RV-List: Anyone Know The Story Behind This Crash?
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Hi Listers,
Does anyone know the story behind this aircraft and the crash? Almost
looks like an RC model especially given the cameraman's rather
unemotional comment following the crash. Kind of looks like the
elevator may have been hooked up backwards following a rebuild.
http://media4.big-boys.com/content/oldplanecrash.wmv
Any information on this video would be intersting.
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
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