Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:32 AM - RV Fly in this SAT (John Mcmahon)
2. 05:46 AM - Glue and sun (Matt Jurotich)
3. 06:56 AM - Re: Glue and sun (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 07:39 AM - Re: Re:Bolt Torque Question... (Jim Oke)
5. 08:26 AM - Re: air gizmo (James Clark)
6. 09:48 AM - Re: Glue and sun (Darrell Reiley)
7. 10:09 AM - Re: Glue and sun (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
8. 10:20 AM - Diverter Valve (Chuck Jensen)
9. 11:53 AM - Re: Re:Bolt Torque Question... (Phil Birkelbach)
10. 12:48 PM - Re: Bolt Torque Question... (Gary Zilik)
11. 02:00 PM - Quick Build (Richard Leach)
12. 02:35 PM - Re: Re: Bolt Torque Question... (Kevin Horton)
13. 03:06 PM - Renew medical (bertrv6@highstream.net)
14. 03:13 PM - Bifocal glasses. (bertrv6@highstream.net)
15. 03:13 PM - Re: Re: Bolt Torque Question... (Matt Johnson)
16. 04:01 PM - Re: Bifocal glasses. (Charlie England)
17. 04:02 PM - Re: Bifocal glasses. (Ed Anderson)
18. 04:22 PM - Re: Renew medical (Darrell Reiley)
19. 04:31 PM - Re: Re: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Darrell Reiley)
20. 04:45 PM - Re: Bifocal glasses. (Mark)
21. 04:52 PM - Re: Bifocal glasses. (RV6 Flyer)
22. 05:01 PM - Re: Bifocal glasses. (Wayne Glasser)
23. 06:02 PM - Re: Renew medical (LarryRobertHelming)
24. 06:03 PM - Duh the -10. (Richard Leach)
25. 06:14 PM - Re: Bifocal glasses. (Wentz, Don)
26. 06:39 PM - Re: Renew medical (Bob Collins)
27. 08:16 PM - garmin gps (Bob Janes)
28. 08:57 PM - Re: Renew medical (Vanremog@aol.com)
29. 09:00 PM - Re: Renew medical (Vanremog@aol.com)
30. 09:56 PM - Fuse roller (Trevor Mills)
31. 11:45 PM - Desired engine offset for p-factor (Mickey Coggins)
32. 11:50 PM - Re: garmin gps (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RV Fly in this SAT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Mcmahon" <rv6@earthlink.net>
Reminder that this Sat is the Fall Classic RV Fly in at (M54)Lebanon
Tn.20 miles east of Nashville,Tn.I still have a few slots open with
Mike Seager..Plane judging and food...
John McMahon
615-452-8742
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
You folk can answer almost any question. I bought a "kool
scoop" for my piper Archer which sits out in the sun. It falls off
after some time in the sun and now the gluey side has enough dirt
that it barely hangs on. How can I glue this beast in place and not
need a cover for the plane? Response off list is fine.
Thanks
Do Not Archive
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Try E6000, also known as ShoeGoo, or Goop available at any Walmart, HD, Lowe's
etc.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Jurotich
Subject: RV-List: Glue and sun
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
You folk can answer almost any question. I bought a "kool scoop" for my piper
Archer which sits out in the sun. It falls off after some time in the sun and
now the gluey side has enough dirt that it barely hangs on. How can I glue
this beast in place and not need a cover for the plane? Response off list is
fine.
Thanks
Do Not Archive
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re:Bolt Torque Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I recall reading a quote once upon a time in some homebuilder's article
that 99% plus of small (ie., AN-3) bolt "failures" were due to over
torquing. That is, the torque required to properly install an AN-3 bolt
is quite small and there is a tendency for builders to fall back on
their amateur car fixing experience and "give 'er" an extra twist to
make sure. Not necessary and actually more likely to cause problems
than under torquing.
My suggestion: acquire some extra AN-3 bolts, do some intentional over
torquing to recognize the difference in feel between "adequate" and
"too much" torque, discard those bolts, and then work by feel later on.
Leave the rocket science stuff to NASA.
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
RV-6A
Do Not Archive
bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net
>
>Roger that. It just occurred to me as I looked at the $320 price for the torque
wrench that pretty soon the solution to how to finance construction of this
airplane is going to be "sell the tools" (g).
>
>Seriously, I think the VERY hardest thing about building is knowing what's good
and what's good enough. Obviously everyone wants the "right torque" on stuff
and everyone wants the best tool but part of the process here -- and it's a
difficult one -- is figuring out what one can and cannot afford and/or does and
does not need in building the plane.
>
>I laughed on Dan's site when he checked the fuselage with a bubble and plumb bob
and commented on how at one time, that's how old-timers built airplanes.
>
>I get the whole engineering thing. I understand accounting for friction of the
nut and the phase of the moon and everything. But it still makes me scratch my
head and wonder how all of those planes got into the air before $300 torque
wrenches and digital gizmos.
>
>One of these days, I'd like to see what tools they're using in the Van's "skunk
works."
>
>Bob
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>>on the spinner I'd like the right torque. I might be anal...
>>
>>
>
>Roger that. It just occurred to me as I looked at the $320 price for the torque
wrench that pretty soon the solution to how to finance construction of this
airplane is going to be "sell the tools" (g).
>
>Seriously, I think the VERY hardest thing about building is knowing what's good
and what's good enough. Obviously everyone wants the "right torque" on stuff
and everyone wants the best tool but part of the process here -- and it's a difficult
one -- is figuring out what one can and cannot afford and/or does and
does not need in building the plane.
>
>I laughed on Dan's site when he checked the fuselage with a bubble and plumb bob
and commented on how at one time, that's how old-timers built airplanes.
>
>I get the whole engineering thing. I understand accounting for friction of the
nut and the phase of the moon and everything. But it still makes me scratch my
head and wonder how all of those planes got into the air before $300 torque
wrenches and digital gizmos.
>
>One of these days, I'd like to see what tools they're using in the Van's "skunk
works."
>
>Bob
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
> on the spinner I'd like the right torque. I might be anal...
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: James Clark <jclarkmail@gmail.com>
Try http://www.airgizmos.com .
They are also available from Van's.
James
<SNIP>
> --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
>
> I saw a mount for the 296 that goes in the radio stack at OSH called
> "Air Gizmo"...now I can't find it.
>
> Anyone have the contact info for them?
>
> Thanks, John
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james@nextupventures.com .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Glue and sun |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
3M makes one hell of a double sided adhesive tape... if you decide to use it and
ever want to take it back off you might end up replacing the window. They have
many variations and strengths. I believe Grainer has the 3M selection online.
Darrell
Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich
You folk can answer almost any question. I bought a "kool
scoop" for my piper Archer which sits out in the sun. It falls off
after some time in the sun and now the gluey side has enough dirt
that it barely hangs on. How can I glue this beast in place and not
need a cover for the plane? Response off list is fine.
Thanks
Do Not Archive
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to:
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL:
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: Glue and sun |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
3M makes VHB (very high bond) tape in a variety of shapes & sizes- be sure
it's where ya want it, cause its a b_tch to get off!
Go to www.Mcmaster.com and seach for page 3209 or enter "vhb tape" into the
seach window. Great stuff, but pricey!
Mark - do not archive
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Anyone know of a source for an aluminum 1/2" 3-way diverter valve,
preferably with flared fittings but NPT is tolerable. I've Googled it
but all I get is 500 Taiwan and Chinese manufacturers that want to sell
be everything known to man, except what I need.
Chuck
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re:Bolt Torque Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
Yes we fall back on our amateur car fixing experience but we're probably
over torquing those bolts too. Once when I complained about a brake
shop using an impact wrench to put the tires back on my car, the guy
told me, "That's they way the do it at NASCAR" to which I replied,
"Okay, you have 12 seconds left to finish."
Another distinction is that the vast majority of the bolts in the car
are coarse thread and the vast majority of the airplane hardware is fine
thread. Fine threads are not torqued as high as coarse threads. It's a
leverage thing.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Jim Oke wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
>I recall reading a quote once upon a time in some homebuilder's article
>that 99% plus of small (ie., AN-3) bolt "failures" were due to over
>torquing. That is, the torque required to properly install an AN-3 bolt
>is quite small and there is a tendency for builders to fall back on
>their amateur car fixing experience and "give 'er" an extra twist to
>make sure. Not necessary and actually more likely to cause problems
>than under torquing.
>
>My suggestion: acquire some extra AN-3 bolts, do some intentional over
>torquing to recognize the difference in feel between "adequate" and
>"too much" torque, discard those bolts, and then work by feel later on.
>Leave the rocket science stuff to NASA.
>
>Jim Oke
>Wpg., MB
>RV-6A
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net
>>
>>Roger that. It just occurred to me as I looked at the $320 price for the torque
wrench that pretty soon the solution to how to finance construction of this
airplane is going to be "sell the tools" (g).
>>
>>Seriously, I think the VERY hardest thing about building is knowing what's good
and what's good enough. Obviously everyone wants the "right torque" on stuff
and everyone wants the best tool but part of the process here -- and it's a
difficult one -- is figuring out what one can and cannot afford and/or does and
does not need in building the plane.
>>
>>I laughed on Dan's site when he checked the fuselage with a bubble and plumb
bob and commented on how at one time, that's how old-timers built airplanes.
>>
>>I get the whole engineering thing. I understand accounting for friction of the
nut and the phase of the moon and everything. But it still makes me scratch
my head and wonder how all of those planes got into the air before $300 torque
wrenches and digital gizmos.
>>
>>One of these days, I'd like to see what tools they're using in the Van's "skunk
works."
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>on the spinner I'd like the right torque. I might be anal...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Roger that. It just occurred to me as I looked at the $320 price for the torque
wrench that pretty soon the solution to how to finance construction of this
airplane is going to be "sell the tools" (g).
>>
>>Seriously, I think the VERY hardest thing about building is knowing what's good
and what's good enough. Obviously everyone wants the "right torque" on stuff
and everyone wants the best tool but part of the process here -- and it's a
difficult one -- is figuring out what one can and cannot afford and/or does and
does not need in building the plane.
>>
>>I laughed on Dan's site when he checked the fuselage with a bubble and plumb
bob and commented on how at one time, that's how old-timers built airplanes.
>>
>>I get the whole engineering thing. I understand accounting for friction of the
nut and the phase of the moon and everything. But it still makes me scratch
my head and wonder how all of those planes got into the air before $300 torque
wrenches and digital gizmos.
>>
>>One of these days, I'd like to see what tools they're using in the Van's "skunk
works."
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>>on the spinner I'd like the right torque. I might be anal...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | re: Bolt Torque Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
I searched high and low on the internet for AC43.13-1b and found that
all links to the pdf files were no longer good. Seems the FAA does not
want to give this information away anymore. Anyway, I did find Gil
Alexanders page where he quotes AC43.13-1A on the proper torqueing of AN
bolts. In short the tables list proper torque values for the different
nuts we use and there is no mention as to compensating for the locking
feature of the nut. So get a copy of the publication (if you don't have
one already) and look up bolt torque values; different nuts on the same
bolt get different torque values.
Also get a good torque wrench. Made in USA is preferable.
Gary
Using Nylon Threads
by Gil Alexander
... here it is!! ... straight from the FAA mechanics bible ....
AC43.13-1A "Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices - Aircraft
Inspection, Repair and Alteration"
Notes
1. Torque for clean, dry threads - no lubrication.
2. You can use the manufacturer's recommendations (if you can find
them!), measure the prevailing torque from the fibre locking ring,
and add this torque to the recommended torque... OR ... you can
use the figures from the table (quoted below) and just use them as
a final torque.
3. Apply a smooth, even pull, if any jerking motion occurs, back off
and re-torque.
4. Fibre lock nuts can be re-used any number of times, as long as the
nut cannot be turned by finger pressure.
5. Do not use fibre locking nuts on bolts with a drilled cotter pin
holes in sizes less than 5/16. At 5/16 and above, make sure no
burrs exist around the drilled hole.
6. Self-locking nut/bolt combinations with NO cotter pin ARE OK for
control systems as long as they clamp on an inner race of a
bearing, and the bolt itself is not used as a pivot. This is the
general RV control system arrangement, but there are exceptions.
SELECTED TORQUE VALUES from AC43.13-1A Chapter 5
AN bolt, AN365 nut (the usual RV combination)
#10 (AN3) 20-25 in.-lbs.
1/4 (AN4) 50-70 in.-lbs.
AN bolt, AN364 thin locknut
#10 (AN3) 12-15 in.-lbs.
1/4 (AN4) 30-40 in.-lbs.
If you use a high strength bolt (such as NAS1300 series) with AN365
locknut
#10 (AN3) 25-30 in.-lbs.
1/4 (AN4) 80-100 in.-lbs.
The all metal locknuts are usually rated the same as the AN365 fibre
locknut.
OK .. for all of you who are not convinced by the FAA recommendations,
Aircraft Spruce offers a "Belt and Braces" approach. They sell MS17825
self-locking castle nuts. This gives the best of both worlds, fibre
locking AND a cotter pin, but at about a $1.00 each.
Get a copy of AC43.13, or borrow one from your friendly FAA Mechanic,
it's well worth reading.
Gil Alexander RV6A #20701
Go back to Hovan's Home Page
<http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan/home.html>
--
Gary Zilik, Sr. Geophysicist zilik@excelgeo.com
Excel Geophysical Services, Inc. phone: 303.694.9629
5690 DTC Blvd, Suite 330W fax: 303.771.1641
Greenwood Village, CO 80411 http://www.excelgeo.com
Message 11
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INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
Who will be the lucky winner? I was called a couple of days ago and
told that my QB was ready for delivery. Well, you can imagine that I
was excited. But I began to do a study of my life over the next several
months and realized that I really wasn't ready for the QB yet. I am
ret. military and now teach high school and coach girl's soccer. This
is getting to be a busy time of the year, not to mention the fact that
my son is getting married soon and we are play, and paying a small part
in that. Today I called Vans and gave up my QB to some lucky person. I
thought it best not to take it and have it sit in my garage when someone
could have it and get flying sooner. So whoever the lucky person is out
there that gets a call today or tomorrow with news that someone turned
down a delivery, you're welcome.
I hope to get the thing on it's way here before the 1st of the year
because in Jan. the price goes up.
Happy building.
Rick Leach
#40397
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: re: Bolt Torque Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 14 Sep 2005, at 15:42, Gary Zilik wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
>
> I searched high and low on the internet for AC43.13-1b and found that
> all links to the pdf files were no longer good. Seems the FAA does not
> want to give this information away anymore. Anyway, I did find Gil
> Alexanders page where he quotes AC43.13-1A on the proper torqueing
> of AN
> bolts. In short the tables list proper torque values for the different
> nuts we use and there is no mention as to compensating for the locking
> feature of the nut. So get a copy of the publication (if you don't
> have
> one already) and look up bolt torque values; different nuts on the
> same
> bolt get different torque values.
>
The links on the FAA site are still good. Go to:
http://www.faa.gov/
Click on "Regulations & Policies". Click on "Advisory Circulars".
Search for "43.13-1B" in the search box.
The torque info is in Chapter 7. There is a lot of info there, but
it does say "check the friction drag torque required to turn the
nut. .... Add the friction drag torque to the
desired torque. This is referred to as final torque, which should
register on the indicator or setting for a snap-over type torque
wrench."
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
Just tought, maybe some one there have some experience on getting
the medical renew, faster than I have experience this year..
It has been exactly,2months and 2 weeks now., ant they keep telling me is
on review....
No medical problems.
Anxious to complete my 40 hours ...
Bert
rv6a
Do Not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Bifocal glasses. |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I haves to get a new prescription, the ones I have had in the past, are
the plastic frames...
I tought this time I get the real thin metal? support legs?
instead, they might be better or feel better, with the Head set.....
Any comments on this,necessity?
Bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: re: Bolt Torque Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Can someone with a dial type torque wrench give us some averages of what the friction
drag usually is? an AN3 nut into a nutplate
would be 5lbs? 10lbs? I am sure it is pretty standard so it would be nice if someone
could just share it with the rest of us. I would guess
that with a locknut it would be maybe double than a nutplate???
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: re: Bolt Torque Question...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> On 14 Sep 2005, at 15:42, Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
> >
> > I searched high and low on the internet for AC43.13-1b and found that
> > all links to the pdf files were no longer good. Seems the FAA does
> not
> > want to give this information away anymore. Anyway, I did find Gil
> > Alexanders page where he quotes AC43.13-1A on the proper torqueing
> > of AN
> > bolts. In short the tables list proper torque values for the
> different
> > nuts we use and there is no mention as to compensating for the
> locking
> > feature of the nut. So get a copy of the publication (if you don't
> > have
> > one already) and look up bolt torque values; different nuts on the
> > same
> > bolt get different torque values.
> >
>
> The links on the FAA site are still good. Go to:
>
> http://www.faa.gov/
>
> Click on "Regulations & Policies". Click on "Advisory Circulars".
> Search for "43.13-1B" in the search box.
>
> The torque info is in Chapter 7. There is a lot of info there, but
> it does say "check the friction drag torque required to turn the
> nut. .... Add the friction drag torque to the
> desired torque. This is referred to as final torque, which should
> register on the indicator or setting for a snap-over type torque
> wrench."
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Bifocal glasses. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
> Hi:
>
>I haves to get a new prescription, the ones I have had in the past, are
>the plastic frames...
>
> I tought this time I get the real thin metal? support legs?
>instead, they might be better or feel better, with the Head set.....
>
> Any comments on this,necessity?
>
>
>Bert
>rv6a
>
Last year I 'upgraded' to rimless frames with progressive bifocals &
super light lenses with anti glare coating. My next pair will probably
have the top rim because the little 2-hole attachment of the temples &
bridge gets in my vision. You will get widely varying opinions on
progressive lenses; I love mine. With a slight head tilt, I can see from
miles away through arm's length to within inches of my nose. The
downside is that anything more than a few degrees to the left or right
is out of focus, requiring more head turning (poor peripheral vision).
The anti glare coating is really worth the money to me. The light weight
is great; I've got a pair of normal weight lenses & can't wear them any
more. Thin metal temple pieces definitely help headset earcup sealing.
FWIW...
Charlie
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Bifocal glasses. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Bert, I have flown with both plastic and metal types. I personally find the
metal flat type ear legs to offer me the best comfort under a headset. I
also prefer the "varilux" or progressive lens over the traditional bi-focal.
Its ideal for my needs. There is no sharp dividing line between focuses -
however, the "sweet" spot is a bit smaller than a bifocal - so you must move
your head a bit more. FWIW
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <bertrv6@highstream.net>
Subject: RV-List: Bifocal glasses.
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
> Hi:
>
> I haves to get a new prescription, the ones I have had in the past, are
> the plastic frames...
>
> I tought this time I get the real thin metal? support legs?
> instead, they might be better or feel better, with the Head set.....
>
> Any comments on this,necessity?
>
>
> Bert
> rv6a
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Renew medical |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
With no past or recent medical issues your doctor should issue you a medical upon
exam. This has been my experience for the last 15 years...
Darrell
bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
Just tought, maybe some one there have some experience on getting
the medical renew, faster than I have experience this year..
It has been exactly,2months and 2 weeks now., ant they keep telling me is
on review....
No medical problems.
Anxious to complete my 40 hours ...
Bert
rv6a
Do Not archive
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: re: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Dial type, digital or other if they are calibrated correctly will not make enough
difference to notice. I can email you the FAA specs if you need them...
Darrell
Matt Johnson <matt@n559rv.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson"
Can someone with a dial type torque wrench give us some averages of what the friction
drag usually is? an AN3 nut into a nutplate
would be 5lbs? 10lbs? I am sure it is pretty standard so it would be nice if someone
could just share it with the rest of us. I would guess
that with a locknut it would be maybe double than a nutplate???
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: re: Bolt Torque Question...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
> On 14 Sep 2005, at 15:42, Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik
> >
> > I searched high and low on the internet for AC43.13-1b and found that
> > all links to the pdf files were no longer good. Seems the FAA does
> not
> > want to give this information away anymore. Anyway, I did find Gil
> > Alexanders page where he quotes AC43.13-1A on the proper torqueing
> > of AN
> > bolts. In short the tables list proper torque values for the
> different
> > nuts we use and there is no mention as to compensating for the
> locking
> > feature of the nut. So get a copy of the publication (if you don't
> > have
> > one already) and look up bolt torque values; different nuts on the
> > same
> > bolt get different torque values.
> >
>
> The links on the FAA site are still good. Go to:
>
> http://www.faa.gov/
>
> Click on "Regulations & Policies". Click on "Advisory Circulars".
> Search for "43.13-1B" in the search box.
>
> The torque info is in Chapter 7. There is a lot of info there, but
> it does say "check the friction drag torque required to turn the
> nut. .... Add the friction drag torque to the
> desired torque. This is referred to as final torque, which should
> register on the indicator or setting for a snap-over type torque
> wrench."
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bifocal glasses. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark" <2eyedocs@comcast.net>
Bert,
Finally a question I can answer :-) Most people prefer the small light weight
progressive (no-line) lenses. I have that type myself in sunglasses and they
work just fine. Do you currently wear bifocals or progressives? There is a new
progressive lens developed by an optical guy from NASA and carried by J&J that
seems to do better than previous types such as Varilux and Zeiss. It is called
the Definity and it has a clever design. All of the previous progressives
have had all of the Near power ground onto the front surface of the lens.
This production process introduces unwanted astigmatism when you look down and
right or down and left, which limits the width of the useable Near area. The
new lens splits the Near power on the front and back surfaces which opens up
the Near channel by a considerable amount, depending on the prescription. The
higher the power, the less distortion. You can physically measure the Near area
in the lens and it is significantly wider with the Definity. I have always
worn Varilux lenses which have always been considered to give the widest field
of view at Near, but with these you can sit at a large desk and look left &
right w/out any distortion. Just my .02!
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: bertrv6@highstream.net
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 5:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bifocal glasses.
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I haves to get a new prescription, the ones I have had in the past, are
the plastic frames...
I tought this time I get the real thin metal? support legs?
instead, they might be better or feel better, with the Head set.....
Any comments on this,necessity?
Bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Bifocal glasses. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Bert:
I have been wearing Progressive Transition lenses for 5 or 6 years now. I
have also tried sunglasses but did not like the Rx Sunglasses. My GX60 is
too dark with the sun glasses.
Since the Sun Glasses were not being used, I had Bifocal Transition lenses
made for them in May. I now have two pair of glasses. Progressive
Transition for every day use and work. I have the bifocal pair of
Transition glasses for flying. I like the bifocal better for flying as it
has better vision. I can see the panel with the top part or the bottom part
of the glasses perfect with my glasses. 2.25 Doppler for the bifocal part.
The bifocal glasses are much better for peripheral vision. Flying lead in
formation, I am able to see the guy out of position clearly with the bifocal
glasses but they are blurry with the progressive lenses. The progressive
lenses are worth the extra money for every day use. If you fly lead
formation, get the second pair of glasses with the bifocal lens. Working on
a computer at work, the bifocal lens does not work for me. If they were
trifocal they may work.
I have had wire frame glasses for the past 30+ years. I do not think I have
worn plastic frame glasses since I was 12 years old. I have not worn glass
glasses for the past 10 or 15 years.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,771 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: bertrv6@highstream.net
Subject: RV-List: Bifocal glasses.
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I haves to get a new prescription, the ones I have had in the past, are
the plastic frames...
I tought this time I get the real thin metal? support legs?
instead, they might be better or feel better, with the Head set.....
Any comments on this,necessity?
Bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bifocal glasses. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <wayne@dobyengineering.com>
Just wondering what you guys are using for frames?
Do to the nature of my work and they type of sports I enjoy I have always
preferred frames with curl side temples however it is getting almost
impossible to find any quality brand frames with this type of retention.
I would appreciate any feedback.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark" <2eyedocs@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bifocal glasses.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark" <2eyedocs@comcast.net>
>
> Bert,
>
> Finally a question I can answer :-) Most people prefer the small light
> weight progressive (no-line) lenses. I have that type myself in
> sunglasses and they work just fine. Do you currently wear bifocals or
> progressives? There is a new progressive lens developed by an optical guy
> from NASA and carried by J&J that seems to do better than previous types
> such as Varilux and Zeiss. It is called the Definity and it has a clever
> design. All of the previous progressives have had all of the Near power
> ground onto the front surface of the lens. This production process
> introduces unwanted astigmatism when you look down and right or down and
> left, which limits the width of the useable Near area. The new lens
> splits the Near power on the front and back surfaces which opens up the
> Near channel by a considerable amount, depending on the prescription. The
> higher the power, the less distortion. You can physically measure the Near
> area in the lens and it is significantly wider with th!
> e Definity. I have always worn Varilux lenses which have always been
> considered to give the widest field of view at Near, but with these you
> can sit at a large desk and look left & right w/out any distortion. Just
> my .02!
>
> Mark
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bertrv6@highstream.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 5:12 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Bifocal glasses.
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
> Hi:
>
> I haves to get a new prescription, the ones I have had in the past, are
> the plastic frames...
>
> I tought this time I get the real thin metal? support legs?
> instead, they might be better or feel better, with the Head set.....
>
> Any comments on this,necessity?
>
>
> Bert
> rv6a
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Renew medical |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I, too, got my renewal the same day of the exam. There must be something
different with yours or a documentation snag or something like that. My
doctor is very careful to review that nothing has changed if nothing has and
very careful in reviewing the accuracy of every box completed on the
questionnaire. If anything has changed since the last medical or anything
improperly completed, i.e., a wrong code in the right or wrong place -- then
that is a different story.
Your name might be the same as some real bad dude somewhere.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker -- 61 hours flown and thousands of
miles to go, thousands to go.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathanial Hawthorn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Reiley" <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Renew medical
> --> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> With no past or recent medical issues your doctor should issue you a
> medical upon exam. This has been my experience for the last 15 years...
>
> Darrell
>
>
> bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
> Just tought, maybe some one there have some experience on getting
> the medical renew, faster than I have experience this year..
>
> It has been exactly,2months and 2 weeks now., ant they keep telling me is
> on review....
>
> No medical problems.
>
>
> Anxious to complete my 40 hours ...
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> Do Not archive
>
>
> Darrell Reiley
> Round Rock, Texas
>
> RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
> N622DR (reserved)
>
> ---------------------------------
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
>
>
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo@verizon.net>
Thanks Mr. Gray. The QB is fo
Rick Leach
Do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Bifocal glasses. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
Just don't forget to lift the bifocals before landing your taildragger,
or you go blind.
I did one morning and all my daughter could say was "sheesh Dad, nice
landing". ;-)
Dw
RV-6 910hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bertrv6@highstream.net
Subject: RV-List: Bifocal glasses.
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I haves to get a new prescription, the ones I have had in the past, are
the plastic frames...
I tought this time I get the real thin metal? support legs?
instead, they might be better or feel better, with the Head set.....
Any comments on this,necessity?
Bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
The AOPA is REALLY good at kicking some Oklahoma City a** on medicals that
are "under review". At the very least, everyone should leave an FAA medical
with either a certificate or a reason why not.
Here's the URL
https://www.aopa.org/members/medical/status_request.cfm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
Subject: Re: RV-List: Renew medical
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley
--> <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
With no past or recent medical issues your doctor should issue you a medical
upon exam. This has been my experience for the last 15 years...
Darrell
bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Janes <b_janes@telus.net>
Thinking about buying my son a gps. He is a new flyer. Can anybody
recommend (or not) the garmin 96?
I'm also looking at the garmin 196. Thanks for any help.
Bob
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Renew medical |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 9/14/2005 6:40:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net writes:
The AOPA is REALLY good at kicking some Oklahoma City a** on medicals that
are "under review". At the very least, everyone should leave an FAA medical
with either a certificate or a reason why not.
Here's the URL
https://www.aopa.org/members/medical/status_request.cfm
========================================
Yeah, right. They made nary a peep while CAMI had mine tied up for 3
months. I contacted AOPA twice and never heard back from them. What may work
is
calling CAMI everyday to ask the status of your medical. The phone number is
405-954-4821.
What seems to be happening is that denials of medicals are increasingly
being challenged by the pilots in order to ensure that they meet the letter of
the law regarding sport pilot medical self certification when they exit the GA
system and move on. Also there were recent findings of medical incompetency
regarding several dozen west coast pilots when disability records were cross
referenced with pilot records and the FAA got a bad rep there.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Renew medical |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 9/14/2005 6:04:17 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
lhelming@sigecom.net writes:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathanial Hawthorn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
=======================
If you're going to quote Nathaniel Hawthorne, perhaps you would be kind
enough to show him the respect he deserves by spelling his name correctly.
Do not archive
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj@ozemail.com.au>
I have seen photo's somewhere of an RV8 fuselage between 2 stands that allowed
it to be rolled,
Can anyone help me with plans or photo's that would help me copy the idea ?
After 2 lower back operations I am hoping this will help.
Thanks
Trevor Mills 80605.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Desired engine offset for p-factor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Does anyone know what the desired engine offset would
be in degrees for an RV8? The cowl seems to assume some
right offset for p-factor, but I'm curious if there is a
magic number.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Bob,
The 196 is coming up on the used market all the time
now for good prices. I've got one, and I really love
it. Our club aircraft all have the Garmin 430, and I
still fly with my 196 on the yoke. It's a nice unit.
Check Ebay - there are dozens for sale there right now.
Best regards,
Mickey
Bob Janes wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Janes <b_janes@telus.net>
>
> Thinking about buying my son a gps. He is a new flyer. Can anybody
> recommend (or not) the garmin 96?
> I'm also looking at the garmin 196. Thanks for any help.
> Bob
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
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