Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:22 AM - Propeller Decisions (bob rundle)
2. 08:23 AM - Rivet Squeezer and Longeron yoke for sale (Richard Suffoletto)
3. 09:40 AM - Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Dean Pichon)
4. 10:14 AM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (linn walters)
5. 10:45 AM - Re: Any using silicone Valve Cover Gaskets? (Kelly McMullen)
6. 11:03 AM - Re: Propeller Decisions (Ed Holyoke)
7. 11:15 AM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Walter Tondu)
8. 11:39 AM - Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Bill Dube)
9. 11:46 AM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Kelly McMullen)
10. 11:46 AM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Fiveonepw@AOL.COM)
11. 11:54 AM - Re: [RV7Yahoo] Propeller Decisions (Darwin N. Barrie)
12. 12:15 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Bob Perkinson)
13. 12:35 PM - honda engine (Evan and Megan Johnson)
14. 12:40 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Evan and Megan Johnson)
15. 01:21 PM - Re: Propeller Decisions (Bob)
16. 01:24 PM - hot cylinder cure (Frazier, Vincent A)
17. 01:46 PM - Re: honda engine (Bob C.)
18. 02:19 PM - LOE5 (Larry Pardue)
19. 02:41 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (glaesers)
20. 02:42 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (David Leonard)
21. 03:25 PM - Re: Mazda RX-8 engine (was: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7) (Bill Dube)
22. 04:18 PM - Switches (Richard Dudley)
23. 04:18 PM - Headsets (Richard Dudley)
24. 04:49 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Mickey Coggins)
25. 05:47 PM - Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
26. 06:22 PM - Re: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers (Dan Checkoway)
27. 07:04 PM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Steven DiNieri)
28. 07:27 PM - Re: camera in the tail (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
29. 07:37 PM - RV builders in Sandpoint, Idaho ? (Finn Lassen)
30. 08:32 PM - Re: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers (Vanremog@AOL.COM)
31. 08:34 PM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Dave Lammers)
32. 10:49 PM - Usable fuel RV-7/8 (czechsix@juno.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Propeller Decisions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
I have made the decision to use a constant speed prop on my airplane for
several reasons including desired increased take-off performance at gross
weight from my 'short' runway.
Now which one? I want mild aerobatic capability.
I would like to reduce weight because I have some extra weight items up
front already. For this reason I'm leaning towards MT or Whirlwind.
Questions:
1. I often see 3 bladed MT props. Why not 2 blades? Anyone have a 2 blade?
Is it as smooth?
2. Does anyone remember the test Van's did with different props? Where can I
find this article?
3. Hydraulic or electrically controlled. Right now I'm leaning towards
hydraulic for facter pitch changes plus the fact that my dash is full.
Any experiences out there would be great!!!
Bob R
RV7A
IO-360 180 hp
Message 2
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| Subject: | Rivet Squeezer and Longeron yoke for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto@hotmail.com>
I have a US tools pneumatic squeezer and yoke for sale. Squeezer has quick
change pins and adjustable ram. New price today for these items is $535.00.
my price $400. Includes shipping anywhere in continental US. Pic's and
details in classified page at www.sacrvators.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief
test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened
everything and am anxious to see how they perform.
Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
gasket?
Any insight is much appreciated.
Dean Pichon
RV-4, 300 hours
Bolton, MA
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Dean Pichon wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
>
>I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
>little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief test
run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened everything
and am anxious to see how they perform.
>
You will be pleased.
>Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets?
>
All good. They'll last longer than cork gaskets and are reuseable. You
might take the covers without gaskets, fit them to the head and lightly
hammer the 'face' of the cover flat. Over the years folks that have
been trying to stop cork gaskets from leaking have deformed the covers
by tightening the screws far beyond their recommended torque. I don't
have my manual handy, but that figure is surprisingly low.
> When installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
gasket?
>
No.
>Any insight is much appreciated.
>
Best I can do.
Linn
>
>Dean Pichon
>RV-4, 300 hours
>Bolton, MA
>
>Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
>http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
--
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Valve Cover Gaskets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
What you are talking about is valve cover gaskets. Aircraft cylinders
don't have head gaskets like cars, the head is screwed onto the cylinder
barrel in an interference fit by heating the head and cooling the barrel.
Silcone valve cover gaskets are the way to go, IMHO. Commonally available
from all aviation parts places. They require MUCH less torque than cork
gaskets. You want the screws just snugged enough they won't back out, not
as tight as you can get them. Usually they come with instructions that
give a very low in/lb torque value. If the gasket is squeezing out with
any deformation it is too tight, and just as prone to leaking. Loosen all
the screws and then re-tighten. It doesn't take much after you feel the
screw starting to compress the gasket.
> Dean Pichon wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
>>
>>I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
>>little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. >>
>>Dean Pichon
>>RV-4, 300 hours
>>Bolton, MA
Message 6
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| Subject: | Propeller Decisions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Bob,
See:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Prop.htm
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob rundle
Subject: RV-List: Propeller Decisions
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
I have made the decision to use a constant speed prop on my airplane for
several reasons including desired increased take-off performance at
gross
weight from my 'short' runway.
Now which one? I want mild aerobatic capability.
I would like to reduce weight because I have some extra weight items up
front already. For this reason I'm leaning towards MT or Whirlwind.
Questions:
1. I often see 3 bladed MT props. Why not 2 blades? Anyone have a 2
blade?
Is it as smooth?
2. Does anyone remember the test Van's did with different props? Where
can I
find this article?
3. Hydraulic or electrically controlled. Right now I'm leaning towards
hydraulic for facter pitch changes plus the fact that my dash is full.
Any experiences out there would be great!!!
Bob R
RV7A
IO-360 180 hp
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 10/17 12:38, Dean Pichon wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
>
> I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
> little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief
> test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened
> everything and am anxious to see how they perform.
Be careful about over torqueing them, you can make the situation
worse. Just the slightest amount of torque is needed on the screws.
I don't remember the exact torque spec, but it's very light.
> Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
> installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
> gasket?
No sealant is supposed to be used. Carefully clean the mating
surface of the cylinder with a good oil/grease remover. Clean
the silicone gasket with soap and water and dry well. Both
surfaces should be clean and dry. Install with no sealant.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <William.P.Dube@noaa.gov>
I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
on my RV-7.
Where is the best place to put the return line?
Thanks in advance,
Bill Dube'
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
What engine/fuel injection combo are you going with?
Lycoming IO-360 with standard Bendix RSA injection doesn't require/use a
return line.
Bill Dube said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <William.P.Dube@noaa.gov>
>
> I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
> on my RV-7.
>
> Where is the best place to put the return line?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill Dube'
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 10/17/05 11:41:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
deanpichon@msn.com writes:
> Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
> installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
> gasket?
>>>
Did the same on mine after initial fire-up and they didn't leak a bit with no
sealant- I just cleaned the head and covers thoroughly and tightened the
screws until they started squishing out a bit. Check for any interferences
between the covers and the edges of the baffling that might be keeping the covers
from pulling down and that the covers are not warped by laying them on a flat
surface...
Mark
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: [RV7Yahoo] Propeller Decisions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Why not look at the Whirlwind RV200? This is composite prop, US made and is
showing great performance. I have not flown mine yet but have talked to
several who have considerable time on theirs. They are happy with the
performance and customer service. This is a hydraulic prop. I am using the
Jihostro governor from Van's.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Propeller Decisions
>I have made the decision to use a constant speed prop on my airplane for
> several reasons including desired increased take-off performance at gross
> weight from my 'short' runway.
>
> Now which one? I want mild aerobatic capability.
>
> I would like to reduce weight because I have some extra weight items up
> front already. For this reason I'm leaning towards MT or Whirlwind.
>
> Questions:
> 1. I often see 3 bladed MT props. Why not 2 blades? Anyone have a 2
> blade?
> Is it as smooth?
>
> 2. Does anyone remember the test Van's did with different props? Where can
> I
> find this article?
>
> 3. Hydraulic or electrically controlled. Right now I'm leaning towards
> hydraulic for facter pitch changes plus the fact that my dash is full.
>
> Any experiences out there would be great!!!
>
> Bob R
> RV7A
> IO-360 180 hp
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUILAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>
>
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Bill,
I put my return line near the bottom directly under the vent line, I did
this on both tanks. This will leave my options open as to which tank I will
return to. I guess you could put it anywhere on the rib that you want. If
you want a picture, I can send you one direct.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <William.P.Dube@noaa.gov>
I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
on my RV-7.
Where is the best place to put the return line?
Thanks in advance,
Bill Dube'
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Did any of you who managed to go to OSH this year pump the Honda/Continental people
for information? Honda is notorious for keeping product information close
to the vest prior to release. A quick google search only produced the press release
from 2 years ago with no real numbers and a small picture of the mocked
up motor. I have spoken to 2 local pilots who are claiming that the engine is
supposed to be in the 300 HP range at half the price of the equivalent Lycoming.
The Honda people at OSH when pressed for pricing supposedly responded only
that they were going to "own" the market. All of this is second or third hand
airport chatter and worth only what you are paying for it, soooooo......How bout
some more solid information? Anybody?.......Anybody?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Put it in down low and plumb it through the first bay into the second bay
before you dump it. If you run it along one of the tank stiffeners you can
proseal it right to the stiffener with a big gob...that will hold forever.
You want to dump it in the second bay so you avoid potentially putting a
bunch of bubbles or froth into the bay with your pick up. Is this a Subaru
conversion?
Cheers...
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <William.P.Dube@noaa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <William.P.Dube@noaa.gov>
>
> I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
> on my RV-7.
>
> Where is the best place to put the return line?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill Dube'
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Propeller Decisions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
Originally the poster mentioned he wanted to do some aerobatics:
The below is a email off of the IAC aerobatic exploder (email list)
reference the whirlwind propeller.
........."I am the airshow pilot with the S1-T and you are incorrect. I
had a pitch pin fail on my 200C propeller twice. First time was about 2.5
years ago, in case they didn't tell you. And the most recent was in May of
this year forcing me into a cow pasture. That incident came within inches
of my life. This time the pitch pin had been disintegrating for some time
and did not just shear off as the first time. And yes, a service bulletin
did go out the first time mine failed, but the service bulletin didn't help
me much after the fact. It might only have prolonged the next failure.
".......
It seems to me that if you fly aerobatics, your constant speed prop takes a
real beating. I have heard from others of their prop overhauls and blade
failures with less than 200 hours (this includes various manufactures, not
just whirlwind). I would recommend that anyone doing aerobatics with a
constant speed prop spend time reviewing the props safety record before
purchasing and then doing a lot of prop inspections after buying.
I personally only fly aerobatics in my RV6 and I use a fixed pitch wooden
prop. I find that my prop and RV6 will beat all performance specs put out
by Van's for a 180 HP engine. The down side of wood, you must retorque
every 25 hours and I do not get prop braking that I would get in a constant
speed, but the price difference allows me to buy 2100 gallons of gas at
$4.91/gal. Also fixed pitch wood prop puts less stress on the engine
during aerobatics than a heavier constant speed or metal prop. Based upon
the data that I have reviewed, my RV would probably go slower if I had a
constant speed prop (just my best guess).
No endorsement or criticism.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 16
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| Subject: | hot cylinder cure |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in the
wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face of
the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough
airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers.
This has been discussed before... but now there's a photo and some text
to make it easier to understand.
http://vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm
Vince
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: honda engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any sign of the Honda piston engine this
year? And I looked for it!
Good Luck,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Builder - SE Iowa
On 10/17/05, Evan and Megan Johnson <evmeg@snowcrest.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <
> evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> Did any of you who managed to go to OSH this year pump the
> Honda/Continental people for information? Honda is notorious for keeping
> product information close to the vest prior to release. A quick google
> search only produced the press release from 2 years ago with no real numbers
> and a small picture of the mocked up motor. I have spoken to 2 local pilots
> who are claiming that the engine is supposed to be in the 300 HP range at
> half the price of the equivalent Lycoming. The Honda people at OSH when
> pressed for pricing supposedly responded only that they were going to "own"
> the market. All of this is second or third hand airport chatter and worth
> only what you are paying for it, soooooo......How bout some more solid
> information? Anybody?.......Anybody?
>
> Evan Johnson
> www.evansaviationproducts.com <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com>
> (530)247-0375
> (530)351-1776 cell
>
>
Message 18
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autolearn=ham version=3.0.2
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
Howdy,
For anyone curious about LOE5, which did have some rain, I have some
pictures and comments at http://n5lp.net/LOE5.htm
This is probably impractical for those with dial-up connections. I've got
the digital camera now, so take too many pictures.
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "glaesers" <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
I put mine right in the center of the forward "lightening hole" that isn't
cut out. I ran it in for 3 ribs. I'm in the middle of my second (left)
tank.
Dennis Glaeser
7A
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <William.P.Dube@noaa.gov>
I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
on my RV-7.
Where is the best place to put the return line?
Thanks in advance,
Bill Dube'
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com>
Bill, I put mine high on the 1st rib so that if there is a leak (or
fracture) in the line it cannot drain the tank. I used an AN-6 bulkhead
fitting. Once inside the tank a small piece of AN-6 alum tube bends down to
just above the lower skin, this helps minimize frothing. There is a small
hole drilled near the top of the tube to prevent siphoning.
Running to the second rib is a reasonable option as well, but is extra work
and weight, and of little value IMHO.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
>
>
> I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
> on my RV-7.
>
> Where is the best place to put the return line?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill Dube'
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Mazda RX-8 engine (was: Fuel tank return line placement?, |
RV-7)
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <William.P.Dube@noaa.gov>
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
>Put it in down low and plumb it through the first bay into the second bay
>before you dump it. If you run it along one of the tank stiffeners you can
>proseal it right to the stiffener with a big gob...that will hold forever.
>You want to dump it in the second bay so you avoid potentially putting a
>bunch of bubbles or froth into the bay with your pick up.
>
Sounds like the perfect way to do it. Is there any structure on the fuse
at the wing root that I should avoid hitting?
> Is this a Subaru
>conversion?
>
>
Actually an 2005 RX-8 Mazda Rotary. Puts out 248 HP stock, normally
aspirated. Firewall forward weighs less than a Lyc 360 (including the
cooling system.) Costs about a third as much. Quite a bit of custom
work, however. Lots of components available, but no turn-key package.
You have to build your own intake manifold and exhaust manifold, for
example. Fortunately, all the hard stuff like the injection electronics,
PSRU, and engine mount are off-the-shelf products.
The engine itself is probably more robust than a Lyc. Very few
moving parts. You can swallow a chunk of metal and they continue to run.
You can also run them out of water and they continue to run (for
awhile.) No problem running lean of peak. No one that I know of has had
a dead stick from internal engine problems. Tracy Crook has over 1450
hours on his rotary-powered RV-4. <http://www.rotaryaviation.com/>
The main reliability issues are the custom stuff you can't buy and
have to do yourself. Bad design on the fuel system has caused a few
silent flights. Bad wiring layout has also caused some problems.
Getting the cooling right can be tricky too. I suppose these same sort
of things have caused grief in certified engine aircraft as well.
Bill Dube'
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Listers,
Thanks to everyone who responded with interest in my extra switches.
They are sold to the person who was first to respond.
Regards and good luck building,
Richard Dudley
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Listers,
I have two vintage aviation headsets in good and working condition and a
Push-To-Talk Switch that someone might have a use for. They are:
- Telex Model A610, TSO C57, Cat B headset.
- Pacific Plantronics Model MS50/T30-3, TSO C57 & C58 earset
- Telex PT-200 Push-To-Talk Switch
You can find the Plantronics set on page 103 in the one of the latest
Sportys catalogs. If you call for price Sporty's quotes $169. This is
used but in good condition.
Neither headset has ANR. Both have been tested in my aircraft.
The PTT switch is for aircraft without internal PTT and the connectors
are compatible with standard microphone plugs and jacks. It is like the
one on page 107 of Sportys.
you could take all for $60.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
RV-6A flying
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Here's how I did it:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040704204434728
Mickey
> Where is the best place to put the return line?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
List, I bought a set of teak stick grips and need to find a source for the rubber
dust covers that go over the switch. Called Aircraft Spruce to try and buy
a couple spares but no luck.
Anyone know the manufacture? Any leads on a source would be greatly appreciated.
Tom in Ohio
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Try emailing the guy who makes 'em at michael@kalama.com.
Very early on, my pant leg caught on my PTT switch and tore the dust cover
off. I just left it like that. I actually like the more affirmative feel
of the switch better without the dust cover.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> List, I bought a set of teak stick grips and need to find a source for
the rubber dust covers that go over the switch. Called Aircraft Spruce to
try and buy a couple spares but no luck.
> Anyone know the manufacture? Any leads on a source would be
greatly appreciated.
>
Tom in Ohio
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Any sealant under the gasket acts to lubricate the new gasket and allow it
to slide out from under the valve cover. I have had good luck with the spray
gasket adhesive, its sorta like contact cement. If used on the valve cover
side of the gasket to glue it in place it makes disassembly easier later,
and holds the gasket from sliding around.
.02
Steve d
n221rv
I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief
test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened
everything and am anxious to see how they perform.
Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
gasket?
Any insight is much appreciated.
Dean Pichon
RV-4, 300 hours
Bolton, MA
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 28
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| Subject: | camera in the tail |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Larry and anybody else familiar with bullet cameras, I decided to put a bullet cam in the stab and have some questions. Larry's video is more than adequate with the camera he has from http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/10/tail_cam.html but I would like a wider field of view. I can't tell what the angle is from the web site. Does this company offer an add on lens to widen the field of view? Maybe get out to the wing tips like http://www.rv8a.com/stabcam/videos/snf03.jpg Unfortunately, Paul's web site has no details on the camera or installation. What approximate field of view angle would one guess Pauls camera is?
So if anyone out there has any additional info I'd really appreciate. This is
the last project I do before going out to the airport for final assembly so someone
throw me a bone to put me out of my misery :-)
thanks,
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
> I did shielded 20 awg for the video, unshielded 20 for the power, and local
> ground.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: gert [mailto:gert.v@sbcglobal.net]
> > Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 8:48 PM
> > To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RV-List: camera in the tail
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: gert
> >
> > Hi Folks
> >
> > to you who have installed a camera in the tail.....the wired
> > version....
> >
> > What wires did you run for the camera, I guess a 12 volt,
> > maybe a ground, and a coax?? if so, what kind of coax does
> > it require??
> >
> > try to install the ifra structure without actually buying the
> > camera yet.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Gert
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
> >
> > Photoshare, and much much more:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Larry and anybody else familiar with bullet cameras, I decided to put a bullet cam in the stab and have some questions. Larry's video is more than adequate with the camera he has from http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/10/tail_cam.htmlbut I would like a wider field of view. I can't tell what the angle is from the web site.Does this company offer an add on lens towiden the field of view? Maybe get out to the wing tips like http://www.rv8a.com/stabcam/videos/snf03.jpgUnfortunately, Paul's web site has no details on the camera or installation. What approximatefield of view anglewould one guess Pauls camera is?
So if anyone out there has any additional info I'd really appreciate. This is the
last project I do before going out to the airport for final assembly so someone
throw me a bone to put me out of my misery :-)
thanks,
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <LARRY@BOWENAERO.COM>
I did shielded 20 awg for the video, unshielded 20 for the power, and local
ground.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
-----Original Message-----
From: gert [mailto:gert.v@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 8:48 PM
To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: camera in the tail
-- RV-List message posted by: gert <GERT.V@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Hi Folks
to you who have installed a camera in the tail.....the wired
version....
What wires did you run for the camera,
I guess a 12 volt,
maybe a ground, and a coax?? if so, what kind of coax does
it require??
try to install the ifra structure without actually buying the
camera yet.
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Photoshare, and much much more:
e:
Message 29
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| Subject: | RV builders in Sandpoint, Idaho ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
do not archive
I'm considering buying a RV-4 kit from Dave Cooke in Sandpoint, Idaho.
I would appreciate if any nearby experienced RV builder could have a
look at it and advice me on the quality of the workmanship (flying
surfaces straight, rivits properly set, etc.).
Please contact me off list: finn.lassen@verizon.net.
Finn
(Clearwater, FL).
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/17/2005 6:24:29 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
Very early on, my pant leg caught on my PTT switch and tore the dust cover
off. I just left it like that. I actually like the more affirmative feel
of the switch better without the dust cover.
=====================================
I agree that the switch action is better without those bogus dust covers. I
would just cut the damn things off and use just the dress nut.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 767hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Lammers <lammers.david@mcleodusa.net>
Dean,
You need to bring the torque up gradually and uniformly as you tighten
any head gasket.
Start by "hand tightening" all so that the surface is planar and
parallel with the gasket but just touching.
Now establish a tightening pattern. Start with one screw and torque to
about 25%, then torque the opposite one the same, then pick another as
far removed from the line between the first two and torque it 25% then
the one across from it and so on. Then start all over torqueing to 50%,
then 75% etc.
The reason they leak is that the mounting surface on the head cover gets
warped from mis-torqueing and can never seal uniformly around the seal.
You can check for this by laying them on an absolutely flat plate and
see if the gasket surface is uniformly on the surface or is there a bow.
If they are bowed, go get some new ones and always carefully torque them
as described.
Never never overtorque. That's how the covers get warped. I've used
silicone on my -6 and Pitts before that and they work great.
Regards,
Dave Lammers
RV-6 N6X 650 hrs
RV-10 under construction
Dean Pichon wrote:
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
>
>I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
>little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief
>test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened
>everything and am anxious to see how they perform.
>
>Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
>installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
>gasket?
>
>Any insight is much appreciated.
>
>Dean Pichon
>RV-4, 300 hours
>Bolton, MA
>
>Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
>http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Usable fuel RV-7/8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an RV-7/8 series?
I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of that is usable.
I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable consensus and will
risk having to change it later if my own measurements are different. I can't
imagine it varies much on these prepunched kits....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying "soon",
which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple years from now...depending
on what else life conspires to bring my way in an effort to prolong
1st flight indefinitely...)
Guys,
Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an RV-7/8 series?
I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of that is usable.
I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable consensus and will risk
having to change it later if my own measurements are different. I can't imagine
it varies much on these prepunched kits....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying "soon",
which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple years from now...depending
on what else life conspires to bring my way in an effort to prolong
1st flight indefinitely...)
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