---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 10/17/05: 32 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 08:22 AM - Propeller Decisions (bob rundle) 2. 08:23 AM - Rivet Squeezer and Longeron yoke for sale (Richard Suffoletto) 3. 09:40 AM - Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Dean Pichon) 4. 10:14 AM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (linn walters) 5. 10:45 AM - Re: Any using silicone Valve Cover Gaskets? (Kelly McMullen) 6. 11:03 AM - Re: Propeller Decisions (Ed Holyoke) 7. 11:15 AM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Walter Tondu) 8. 11:39 AM - Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Bill Dube) 9. 11:46 AM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Kelly McMullen) 10. 11:46 AM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Fiveonepw@AOL.COM) 11. 11:54 AM - Re: [RV7Yahoo] Propeller Decisions (Darwin N. Barrie) 12. 12:15 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Bob Perkinson) 13. 12:35 PM - honda engine (Evan and Megan Johnson) 14. 12:40 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Evan and Megan Johnson) 15. 01:21 PM - Re: Propeller Decisions (Bob) 16. 01:24 PM - hot cylinder cure (Frazier, Vincent A) 17. 01:46 PM - Re: honda engine (Bob C.) 18. 02:19 PM - LOE5 (Larry Pardue) 19. 02:41 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (glaesers) 20. 02:42 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (David Leonard) 21. 03:25 PM - Re: Mazda RX-8 engine (was: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7) (Bill Dube) 22. 04:18 PM - Switches (Richard Dudley) 23. 04:18 PM - Headsets (Richard Dudley) 24. 04:49 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 (Mickey Coggins) 25. 05:47 PM - Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers (Tom & Cathy Ervin) 26. 06:22 PM - Re: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers (Dan Checkoway) 27. 07:04 PM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Steven DiNieri) 28. 07:27 PM - Re: camera in the tail (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)) 29. 07:37 PM - RV builders in Sandpoint, Idaho ? (Finn Lassen) 30. 08:32 PM - Re: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers (Vanremog@AOL.COM) 31. 08:34 PM - Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? (Dave Lammers) 32. 10:49 PM - Usable fuel RV-7/8 (czechsix@juno.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 08:22:14 AM PST US From: "bob rundle" Subject: RV-List: Propeller Decisions --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" I have made the decision to use a constant speed prop on my airplane for several reasons including desired increased take-off performance at gross weight from my 'short' runway. Now which one? I want mild aerobatic capability. I would like to reduce weight because I have some extra weight items up front already. For this reason I'm leaning towards MT or Whirlwind. Questions: 1. I often see 3 bladed MT props. Why not 2 blades? Anyone have a 2 blade? Is it as smooth? 2. Does anyone remember the test Van's did with different props? Where can I find this article? 3. Hydraulic or electrically controlled. Right now I'm leaning towards hydraulic for facter pitch changes plus the fact that my dash is full. Any experiences out there would be great!!! Bob R RV7A IO-360 180 hp ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:23:46 AM PST US From: "Richard Suffoletto" Subject: RV-List: Rivet Squeezer and Longeron yoke for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Suffoletto" I have a US tools pneumatic squeezer and yoke for sale. Squeezer has quick change pins and adjustable ram. New price today for these items is $535.00. my price $400. Includes shipping anywhere in continental US. Pic's and details in classified page at www.sacrvators.com ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:40:31 AM PST US From: "Dean Pichon" Subject: RV-List: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened everything and am anxious to see how they perform. Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the gasket? Any insight is much appreciated. Dean Pichon RV-4, 300 hours Bolton, MA Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:14:43 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters Dean Pichon wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" > >I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a >little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened everything and am anxious to see how they perform. > You will be pleased. >Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? > All good. They'll last longer than cork gaskets and are reuseable. You might take the covers without gaskets, fit them to the head and lightly hammer the 'face' of the cover flat. Over the years folks that have been trying to stop cork gaskets from leaking have deformed the covers by tightening the screws far beyond their recommended torque. I don't have my manual handy, but that figure is surprisingly low. > When installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the gasket? > No. >Any insight is much appreciated. > Best I can do. Linn > >Dean Pichon >RV-4, 300 hours >Bolton, MA > >Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! >http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ > > > > -- ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:45:39 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Any using silicone Valve Cover Gaskets? From: "Kelly McMullen" --> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" What you are talking about is valve cover gaskets. Aircraft cylinders don't have head gaskets like cars, the head is screwed onto the cylinder barrel in an interference fit by heating the head and cooling the barrel. Silcone valve cover gaskets are the way to go, IMHO. Commonally available from all aviation parts places. They require MUCH less torque than cork gaskets. You want the screws just snugged enough they won't back out, not as tight as you can get them. Usually they come with instructions that give a very low in/lb torque value. If the gasket is squeezing out with any deformation it is too tight, and just as prone to leaking. Loosen all the screws and then re-tighten. It doesn't take much after you feel the screw starting to compress the gasket. > Dean Pichon wrote: > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" >> >>I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a >>little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. >> >>Dean Pichon >>RV-4, 300 hours >>Bolton, MA ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:03:12 AM PST US From: "Ed Holyoke" Subject: RE: RV-List: Propeller Decisions --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" Bob, See: http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Prop.htm Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob rundle Subject: RV-List: Propeller Decisions --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" I have made the decision to use a constant speed prop on my airplane for several reasons including desired increased take-off performance at gross weight from my 'short' runway. Now which one? I want mild aerobatic capability. I would like to reduce weight because I have some extra weight items up front already. For this reason I'm leaning towards MT or Whirlwind. Questions: 1. I often see 3 bladed MT props. Why not 2 blades? Anyone have a 2 blade? Is it as smooth? 2. Does anyone remember the test Van's did with different props? Where can I find this article? 3. Hydraulic or electrically controlled. Right now I'm leaning towards hydraulic for facter pitch changes plus the fact that my dash is full. Any experiences out there would be great!!! Bob R RV7A IO-360 180 hp ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:15:50 AM PST US From: Walter Tondu Subject: Re: RV-List: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu On 10/17 12:38, Dean Pichon wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" > > I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a > little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief > test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened > everything and am anxious to see how they perform. Be careful about over torqueing them, you can make the situation worse. Just the slightest amount of torque is needed on the screws. I don't remember the exact torque spec, but it's very light. > Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When > installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the > gasket? No sealant is supposed to be used. Carefully clean the mating surface of the cylinder with a good oil/grease remover. Clean the silicone gasket with soap and water and dry well. Both surfaces should be clean and dry. Install with no sealant. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Flying! ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:39:40 AM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank on my RV-7. Where is the best place to put the return line? Thanks in advance, Bill Dube' ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:46:32 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 From: "Kelly McMullen" --> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" What engine/fuel injection combo are you going with? Lycoming IO-360 with standard Bendix RSA injection doesn't require/use a return line. Bill Dube said: > --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube > > I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank > on my RV-7. > > Where is the best place to put the return line? > > Thanks in advance, > > Bill Dube' > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:46:32 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: RV-List: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 10/17/05 11:41:39 AM Central Daylight Time, deanpichon@msn.com writes: > Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When > installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the > gasket? >>> Did the same on mine after initial fire-up and they didn't leak a bit with no sealant- I just cleaned the head and covers thoroughly and tightened the screws until they started squishing out a bit. Check for any interferences between the covers and the edges of the baffling that might be keeping the covers from pulling down and that the covers are not warped by laying them on a flat surface... Mark ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:54:39 AM PST US From: "Darwin N. Barrie" Subject: RV-List: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Propeller Decisions --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" Why not look at the Whirlwind RV200? This is composite prop, US made and is showing great performance. I have not flown mine yet but have talked to several who have considerable time on theirs. They are happy with the performance and customer service. This is a hydraulic prop. I am using the Jihostro governor from Van's. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "bob rundle" Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Propeller Decisions >I have made the decision to use a constant speed prop on my airplane for > several reasons including desired increased take-off performance at gross > weight from my 'short' runway. > > Now which one? I want mild aerobatic capability. > > I would like to reduce weight because I have some extra weight items up > front already. For this reason I'm leaning towards MT or Whirlwind. > > Questions: > 1. I often see 3 bladed MT props. Why not 2 blades? Anyone have a 2 > blade? > Is it as smooth? > > 2. Does anyone remember the test Van's did with different props? Where can > I > find this article? > > 3. Hydraulic or electrically controlled. Right now I'm leaning towards > hydraulic for facter pitch changes plus the fact that my dash is full. > > Any experiences out there would be great!!! > > Bob R > RV7A > IO-360 180 hp > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUILAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM > > > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing > www.vansaircraft.net > > > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/ > > <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 12:15:29 PM PST US From: "Bob Perkinson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" Bill, I put my return line near the bottom directly under the vent line, I did this on both tanks. This will leave my options open as to which tank I will return to. I guess you could put it anywhere on the rib that you want. If you want a picture, I can send you one direct. Bob Perkinson Hendersonville, TN. RV9 N658RP Reserved If nothing changes Nothing changes -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank on my RV-7. Where is the best place to put the return line? Thanks in advance, Bill Dube' ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:35:39 PM PST US From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Subject: RV-List: honda engine --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Did any of you who managed to go to OSH this year pump the Honda/Continental people for information? Honda is notorious for keeping product information close to the vest prior to release. A quick google search only produced the press release from 2 years ago with no real numbers and a small picture of the mocked up motor. I have spoken to 2 local pilots who are claiming that the engine is supposed to be in the 300 HP range at half the price of the equivalent Lycoming. The Honda people at OSH when pressed for pricing supposedly responded only that they were going to "own" the market. All of this is second or third hand airport chatter and worth only what you are paying for it, soooooo......How bout some more solid information? Anybody?.......Anybody? Evan Johnson www.evansaviationproducts.com (530)247-0375 (530)351-1776 cell ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 12:40:34 PM PST US From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Put it in down low and plumb it through the first bay into the second bay before you dump it. If you run it along one of the tank stiffeners you can proseal it right to the stiffener with a big gob...that will hold forever. You want to dump it in the second bay so you avoid potentially putting a bunch of bubbles or froth into the bay with your pick up. Is this a Subaru conversion? Cheers... Evan Johnson www.evansaviationproducts.com (530)247-0375 (530)351-1776 cell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dube" Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 > --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube > > I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank > on my RV-7. > > Where is the best place to put the return line? > > Thanks in advance, > > Bill Dube' > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 01:21:05 PM PST US From: Bob Subject: RE: RV-List: Propeller Decisions --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Originally the poster mentioned he wanted to do some aerobatics: The below is a email off of the IAC aerobatic exploder (email list) reference the whirlwind propeller. ........."I am the airshow pilot with the S1-T and you are incorrect. I had a pitch pin fail on my 200C propeller twice. First time was about 2.5 years ago, in case they didn't tell you. And the most recent was in May of this year forcing me into a cow pasture. That incident came within inches of my life. This time the pitch pin had been disintegrating for some time and did not just shear off as the first time. And yes, a service bulletin did go out the first time mine failed, but the service bulletin didn't help me much after the fact. It might only have prolonged the next failure. "....... It seems to me that if you fly aerobatics, your constant speed prop takes a real beating. I have heard from others of their prop overhauls and blade failures with less than 200 hours (this includes various manufactures, not just whirlwind). I would recommend that anyone doing aerobatics with a constant speed prop spend time reviewing the props safety record before purchasing and then doing a lot of prop inspections after buying. I personally only fly aerobatics in my RV6 and I use a fixed pitch wooden prop. I find that my prop and RV6 will beat all performance specs put out by Van's for a 180 HP engine. The down side of wood, you must retorque every 25 hours and I do not get prop braking that I would get in a constant speed, but the price difference allows me to buy 2100 gallons of gas at $4.91/gal. Also fixed pitch wood prop puts less stress on the engine during aerobatics than a heavier constant speed or metal prop. Based upon the data that I have reviewed, my RV would probably go slower if I had a constant speed prop (just my best guess). No endorsement or criticism. Bob RV6 NightFighter ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 01:24:31 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: hot cylinder cure From: "Frazier, Vincent A" INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912 --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in the wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face of the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers. This has been discussed before... but now there's a photo and some text to make it easier to understand. http://vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm Vince ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 01:46:03 PM PST US From: "Bob C. " Subject: Re: RV-List: honda engine --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any sign of the Honda piston engine this year? And I looked for it! Good Luck, Bob Christensen RV-8 Builder - SE Iowa On 10/17/05, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" < > evmeg@snowcrest.net> > > Did any of you who managed to go to OSH this year pump the > Honda/Continental people for information? Honda is notorious for keeping > product information close to the vest prior to release. A quick google > search only produced the press release from 2 years ago with no real numbers > and a small picture of the mocked up motor. I have spoken to 2 local pilots > who are claiming that the engine is supposed to be in the 300 HP range at > half the price of the equivalent Lycoming. The Honda people at OSH when > pressed for pricing supposedly responded only that they were going to "own" > the market. All of this is second or third hand airport chatter and worth > only what you are paying for it, soooooo......How bout some more solid > information? Anybody?.......Anybody? > > Evan Johnson > www.evansaviationproducts.com > (530)247-0375 > (530)351-1776 cell > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 02:19:36 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: LOE5 From: Larry Pardue autolearn=ham version=3.0.2 --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue Howdy, For anyone curious about LOE5, which did have some rain, I have some pictures and comments at http://n5lp.net/LOE5.htm This is probably impractical for those with dial-up connections. I've got the digital camera now, so take too many pictures. Do not archive Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 02:41:26 PM PST US From: "glaesers" Subject: RV-List: Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 --> RV-List message posted by: "glaesers" I put mine right in the center of the forward "lightening hole" that isn't cut out. I ran it in for 3 ribs. I'm in the middle of my second (left) tank. Dennis Glaeser 7A --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank on my RV-7. Where is the best place to put the return line? Thanks in advance, Bill Dube' ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 02:42:12 PM PST US From: David Leonard Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 --> RV-List message posted by: David Leonard Bill, I put mine high on the 1st rib so that if there is a leak (or fracture) in the line it cannot drain the tank. I used an AN-6 bulkhead fitting. Once inside the tank a small piece of AN-6 alum tube bends down to just above the lower skin, this helps minimize frothing. There is a small hole drilled near the top of the tube to prevent siphoning. Running to the second rib is a reasonable option as well, but is extra work and weight, and of little value IMHO. -- Dave Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html > > > I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank > on my RV-7. > > Where is the best place to put the return line? > > Thanks in advance, > > Bill Dube' > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 03:25:39 PM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: RV-List: Re: Mazda RX-8 engine (was: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7) --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube Evan and Megan Johnson wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" > >Put it in down low and plumb it through the first bay into the second bay >before you dump it. If you run it along one of the tank stiffeners you can >proseal it right to the stiffener with a big gob...that will hold forever. >You want to dump it in the second bay so you avoid potentially putting a >bunch of bubbles or froth into the bay with your pick up. > Sounds like the perfect way to do it. Is there any structure on the fuse at the wing root that I should avoid hitting? > Is this a Subaru >conversion? > > Actually an 2005 RX-8 Mazda Rotary. Puts out 248 HP stock, normally aspirated. Firewall forward weighs less than a Lyc 360 (including the cooling system.) Costs about a third as much. Quite a bit of custom work, however. Lots of components available, but no turn-key package. You have to build your own intake manifold and exhaust manifold, for example. Fortunately, all the hard stuff like the injection electronics, PSRU, and engine mount are off-the-shelf products. The engine itself is probably more robust than a Lyc. Very few moving parts. You can swallow a chunk of metal and they continue to run. You can also run them out of water and they continue to run (for awhile.) No problem running lean of peak. No one that I know of has had a dead stick from internal engine problems. Tracy Crook has over 1450 hours on his rotary-powered RV-4. The main reliability issues are the custom stuff you can't buy and have to do yourself. Bad design on the fuel system has caused a few silent flights. Bad wiring layout has also caused some problems. Getting the cooling right can be tricky too. I suppose these same sort of things have caused grief in certified engine aircraft as well. Bill Dube' ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 04:18:33 PM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: RV-List: Switches --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley Hi Listers, Thanks to everyone who responded with interest in my extra switches. They are sold to the person who was first to respond. Regards and good luck building, Richard Dudley ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:18:33 PM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: RV-List: Headsets --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley Hi Listers, I have two vintage aviation headsets in good and working condition and a Push-To-Talk Switch that someone might have a use for. They are: - Telex Model A610, TSO C57, Cat B headset. - Pacific Plantronics Model MS50/T30-3, TSO C57 & C58 earset - Telex PT-200 Push-To-Talk Switch You can find the Plantronics set on page 103 in the one of the latest Sportys catalogs. If you call for price Sporty's quotes $169. This is used but in good condition. Neither headset has ANR. Both have been tested in my aircraft. The PTT switch is for aircraft without internal PTT and the connectors are compatible with standard microphone plugs and jacks. It is like the one on page 107 of Sportys. you could take all for $60. Regards, Richard Dudley RV-6A flying ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 04:49:57 PM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Here's how I did it: http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040704204434728 Mickey > Where is the best place to put the return line? -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing do not archive ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 05:47:50 PM PST US From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: RV-List: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" List, I bought a set of teak stick grips and need to find a source for the rubber dust covers that go over the switch. Called Aircraft Spruce to try and buy a couple spares but no luck. Anyone know the manufacture? Any leads on a source would be greatly appreciated. Tom in Ohio ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 06:22:44 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Try emailing the guy who makes 'em at michael@kalama.com. Very early on, my pant leg caught on my PTT switch and tore the dust cover off. I just left it like that. I actually like the more affirmative feel of the switch better without the dust cover. do not archive )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: RV-List: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > > List, I bought a set of teak stick grips and need to find a source for the rubber dust covers that go over the switch. Called Aircraft Spruce to try and buy a couple spares but no luck. > Anyone know the manufacture? Any leads on a source would be greatly appreciated. > Tom in Ohio > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 07:04:53 PM PST US From: "Steven DiNieri" Subject: RE: RV-List: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? --> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" Any sealant under the gasket acts to lubricate the new gasket and allow it to slide out from under the valve cover. I have had good luck with the spray gasket adhesive, its sorta like contact cement. If used on the valve cover side of the gasket to glue it in place it makes disassembly easier later, and holds the gasket from sliding around. .02 Steve d n221rv I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened everything and am anxious to see how they perform. Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the gasket? Any insight is much appreciated. Dean Pichon RV-4, 300 hours Bolton, MA Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 07:27:59 PM PST US From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) Subject: RE: RV-List: camera in the tail --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) Larry and anybody else familiar with bullet cameras, I decided to put a bullet cam in the stab and have some questions. Larry's video is more than adequate with the camera he has from http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/10/tail_cam.html but I would like a wider field of view. I can't tell what the angle is from the web site. Does this company offer an add on lens to widen the field of view? Maybe get out to the wing tips like http://www.rv8a.com/stabcam/videos/snf03.jpg Unfortunately, Paul's web site has no details on the camera or installation. What approximate field of view angle would one guess Pauls camera is? So if anyone out there has any additional info I'd really appreciate. This is the last project I do before going out to the airport for final assembly so someone throw me a bone to put me out of my misery :-) thanks, lucky do not archive -------------- Original message -------------- > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" > > I did shielded 20 awg for the video, unshielded 20 for the power, and local > ground. > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry@BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: gert [mailto:gert.v@sbcglobal.net] > > Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 8:48 PM > > To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: RV-List: camera in the tail > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: gert > > > > Hi Folks > > > > to you who have installed a camera in the tail.....the wired > > version.... > > > > What wires did you run for the camera, I guess a 12 volt, > > maybe a ground, and a coax?? if so, what kind of coax does > > it require?? > > > > try to install the ifra structure without actually buying the > > camera yet. > > > > Thanks > > > > Gert > > > > > > -- > > > > > > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 > > > > > > Photoshare, and much much more: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Larry and anybody else familiar with bullet cameras, I decided to put a bullet cam in the stab and have some questions. Larry's video is more than adequate with the camera he has from http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/10/tail_cam.htmlbut I would like a wider field of view. I can't tell what the angle is from the web site.Does this company offer an add on lens towiden the field of view? Maybe get out to the wing tips like http://www.rv8a.com/stabcam/videos/snf03.jpgUnfortunately, Paul's web site has no details on the camera or installation. What approximatefield of view anglewould one guess Pauls camera is? So if anyone out there has any additional info I'd really appreciate. This is the last project I do before going out to the airport for final assembly so someone throw me a bone to put me out of my misery :-) thanks, lucky do not archive -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" I did shielded 20 awg for the video, unshielded 20 for the power, and local ground. - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com -----Original Message----- From: gert [mailto:gert.v@sbcglobal.net] Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 8:48 PM To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com Subject: RV-List: camera in the tail -- RV-List message posted by: gert Hi Folks to you who have installed a camera in the tail.....the wired version.... What wires did you run for the camera, I guess a 12 volt, maybe a ground, and a coax?? if so, what kind of coax does it require?? try to install the ifra structure without actually buying the camera yet. Thanks Gert -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 Photoshare, and much much more: e: ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 07:37:37 PM PST US From: Finn Lassen Subject: RV-List: RV builders in Sandpoint, Idaho ? --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen do not archive I'm considering buying a RV-4 kit from Dave Cooke in Sandpoint, Idaho. I would appreciate if any nearby experienced RV builder could have a look at it and advice me on the quality of the workmanship (flying surfaces straight, rivits properly set, etc.). Please contact me off list: finn.lassen@verizon.net. Finn (Clearwater, FL). ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 08:32:07 PM PST US From: Vanremog@AOL.COM Subject: Re: RV-List: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 10/17/2005 6:24:29 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dan@rvproject.com writes: Very early on, my pant leg caught on my PTT switch and tore the dust cover off. I just left it like that. I actually like the more affirmative feel of the switch better without the dust cover. ===================================== I agree that the switch action is better without those bogus dust covers. I would just cut the damn things off and use just the dress nut. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 767hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 08:34:01 PM PST US From: Dave Lammers Subject: Re: RV-List: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Lammers Dean, You need to bring the torque up gradually and uniformly as you tighten any head gasket. Start by "hand tightening" all so that the surface is planar and parallel with the gasket but just touching. Now establish a tightening pattern. Start with one screw and torque to about 25%, then torque the opposite one the same, then pick another as far removed from the line between the first two and torque it 25% then the one across from it and so on. Then start all over torqueing to 50%, then 75% etc. The reason they leak is that the mounting surface on the head cover gets warped from mis-torqueing and can never seal uniformly around the seal. You can check for this by laying them on an absolutely flat plate and see if the gasket surface is uniformly on the surface or is there a bow. If they are bowed, go get some new ones and always carefully torque them as described. Never never overtorque. That's how the covers get warped. I've used silicone on my -6 and Pitts before that and they work great. Regards, Dave Lammers RV-6 N6X 650 hrs RV-10 under construction Dean Pichon wrote: > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" > >I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a >little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief >test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened >everything and am anxious to see how they perform. > >Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When >installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the >gasket? > >Any insight is much appreciated. > >Dean Pichon >RV-4, 300 hours >Bolton, MA > >Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! >http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ > > > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 10:49:51 PM PST US From: "czechsix@juno.com" Subject: RV-List: Usable fuel RV-7/8 --> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" Guys, Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an RV-7/8 series? I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of that is usable. I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable consensus and will risk having to change it later if my own measurements are different. I can't imagine it varies much on these prepunched kits.... Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying "soon", which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple years from now...depending on what else life conspires to bring my way in an effort to prolong 1st flight indefinitely...) Guys, Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an RV-7/8 series? I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of that is usable. I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable consensus and will risk having to change it later if my own measurements are different. I can't imagine it varies much on these prepunched kits.... Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying "soon", which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple years from now...depending on what else life conspires to bring my way in an effort to prolong 1st flight indefinitely...)