Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:40 AM - SUA Map (james frierson)
2. 06:34 AM - Re: Beaded end on aluminum tube (Dwight Frye)
3. 07:11 AM - High Temperature Epoxy (was attaching plenum) (Karen and Robert Brown)
4. 07:50 AM - Van's IS everything it used to be (Stephanie Marshall)
5. 07:55 AM - Re: Non-receipt of RvAtorversion=3.0.3 (rick_bailey)
6. 08:41 AM - Re: attaching plenum (Wentz, Don)
7. 08:45 AM - Re: Beaded end on aluminum tube (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
8. 10:15 AM - Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap position system (Don Kugler)
9. 10:21 AM - back on the list - Rant (JIM)
10. 10:55 AM - Re: back on the list - Rant (Tim Bryan)
11. 12:13 PM - Re: Empennage Finished! (Greg Grigson)
12. 12:59 PM - Re: back on the list - Rant ()
13. 01:44 PM - Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system (Vincent Welch)
14. 01:44 PM - Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system (Vincent Welch)
15. 02:45 PM - Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system (Rob Prior (rv7))
16. 02:45 PM - Re: Van's IS everything it used to be (bertrv6@highstream.net)
17. 03:36 PM - Protecting flaps (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
18. 04:00 PM - Re: Van's IS everything it used to be (Darrell Reiley)
19. 04:04 PM - Re: Protecting flaps (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
20. 04:10 PM - Re: back on the list - Rant (Frank Stringham)
21. 04:23 PM - Re: Protecting flaps (Jeff Orear)
22. 04:58 PM - Re:High Temperature Epoxy (was attaching plenum) (Martin Hone)
23. 05:08 PM - Re: Protecting flaps (Darrell Reiley)
24. 05:43 PM - Re: Protecting flaps (Martin Hone)
25. 06:07 PM - Re: Protecting flaps (Jeff Orear)
26. 06:33 PM - Re: back on the list - Rant (Jerry Springer)
27. 07:28 PM - Re: Protecting flaps (Dave Nellis)
28. 07:45 PM - (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
29. 08:13 PM - Re: Quick Drain (Larry Bowen)
30. 08:27 PM - Re: (Sam Buchanan)
31. 08:31 PM - Re: Protecting flaps (Dan Krueger)
32. 09:34 PM - Starter not disengaging (HCRV6@comcast.net)
33. 09:36 PM - Oil cooler types. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
34. 09:45 PM - Oil cooler baffle mounting. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
35. 09:52 PM - Oil cooler baffle beef-up (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
36. 10:02 PM - Re: Engines-List: Starter not disengaging (923te)
37. 10:08 PM - Front baffles. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
38. 10:35 PM - Re: (no subject) (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
In the latest Sport aviation was a reference to a web site that shows all
SUA in real time. Check it out at http://sua.faa.gov/atcaaSplash.jsp
Scott
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Beaded end on aluminum tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
George,
I had a friend with an RV-4 who had a similar problem. He noticed that
some safety-wire holding some baffles had started to saw a nice little
slot in an oil return line. We fabricated another one (with slightly
different routing) and then wanted to put a bead on the end of the tube.
There seem to be two choices (three if you decide, as another list member
suggested, to simply not worry about it). One is getting one of the really
nice Parker-style beading tool sets. They apparently do a beautiful job
but are NOT economical for one or two uses. Or, you can do what we did
and get an Earls EZ-Beader. See http://www.amstreetrod.com/011ERL.php4
for details. One for the tubing we needed was less than $20 and gave him
some extra peace of mind knowing that the bead was on there.
The tool is about as simple as it gets ... and does a fairly good job. The
bead is a bit "thinner" than what was on the original, but does fulfill
the task of making it extremely unlikely that the tubing would slip out
of the little rubber hose.
Honestly, I don't see how it could slip out anyway given the geometry of
the whole setup .... but since there was a bead there originally, we felt
best adding one to the new piece of tubing if we could. So we did.
-- Dwight
On Sun Oct 23 13:29:39 2005, George Inman wrote :
> I have to make new oil return lines
> on two cylinders,because they interfere with
>the wire holding bottom of the baffles.
> These aluminum tubes have a bead
>where it enters the hose to the crankcase.
> SEE http://www.mts.net/~ghinman/Bead.html
> What tool do I need to make these?
Message 3
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Subject: | High Temperature Epoxy (was attaching plenum) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Do you have more information on high temperature epoxy? I've researched this for
quite a while and I'm stumped. TAP Plastics up here in OR is the epoxy place
around here and they only say that a marine vinyl ester resin has slighty more
heat resistance than epoxy resin. According to the spec sheet, using ASTM
D-648, Vinyl Ester Resin has a Heat Distortion temp rating of 240F. The spec
sheet notes that this is a "clear casting" rating. TAP was "not aware" of high
temperature epoxy. This may make sense, especially IF THEY DON'T SELL IT.
From an empirical standpoint, all the glass plenums people have made here (about
6, including some with several hundred hours) are using epoxy resin, (both
those using carbon fiber and regular glass). I don't observe any softening
or other degradation on these plenums, so....unless other specific info shows
up on this topic, I'm pretty sure I'll go ahead and use (West Systems) epoxy resin
to do the carbon fiber plenum...which should be soon.
Bob Brown
RV7A - cowl fitted!
Message 4
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Subject: | Van's IS everything it used to be |
1.76 HTML_TAG_EXIST_MARQUEE BODY": rv-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
I have to argue with the guys that are saying that Van's isn't the company they
used to be.
They accidentally sent our empennage kit to the wrong address (our home rather
than work) and when I called to let them know they might want to look at their
process they couldn't apologize enough.
The manager of the shipping department later called herself to apologies, they
re-funded part of the shipping, gave us an RV-8 shirt and a free rv-ator.
I have NOTHING BUT GOOD to say about Vans.
www.rv-8a.4t.com
Stephanie Marshall
Software Support Tech.
City of Enid
smarshall@enid.org <mailto:smarshall2enid.org>
580-234-0400 X-3030
www.enid.org <http://www.enid.org/>
This electronic mail message is intended exclusively for the individual or entity
to which it is addressed. This message, together with any attachment, may contain
confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use,
print, retain, copy, disclosure or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this message in error, please immediately advise the sender and
delete all copies of this message. Thank you
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Non-receipt of RvAtorversion=3.0.3 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rick_bailey" <rick_bailey@hpi.net>
Didn't get mine, either I'm in Colorado Springs, so maybe they just
don't like Colorado I phoned them and it showed up in the mail,
hand addressed, a couple of days later Their computer said that my
subscription was current, so there must have been a snafu in the
distribution system
Do Not Archive
Rick Bailey
RV-7a Fuse
---- Original Message ----
From: rv8@lazy8net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Non-receipt of RvAtorversion303
>--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8net>
>
>That makes at least two of us
>
>John in Pagosa
>
>do not archive, though maybe colorado subscribers should be warned
>(there are at least 2 others)no answer to my emails either
>
>Van's is not the company it used to be
>
>
>n1cxo320@peoplepccom wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: <n1cxo320@peoplepccom>
>>
>>I never did get a copy of the last RvAtor - Van's won't even answer
>e-mails
>>in this regard Can you guess who will no longer subscribe=3F
>>
>>John at Salida, CO
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>=5F-
>=5F- - The RV-List Email Forum -
>=5F- the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page,
>=5F- Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>=5F- Photoshare, and much much more:
>=5F-
>=5F-
>
>
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Message 6
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Subject: | attaching plenum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
Dick wrote:
> Dear Listers,
> There has been a lot of interest lately on plenum chambers and how to
attach them to the RV8.
Several of us have done plenums, mine after over 600hrs on my RV-6. I
was able to find a high temp epoxy resin that worked great. I cured it
using a heat gun (heat shrink style) and it has had absolutely no issues
with heat. I attached it using piano hinges, which works well.
The biggest challenge was connecting it at the front to the cowl inlets.
My thoughts: If I built another RV, I wouldn't bother with the plenum.
A well installed and sealed baffle setup will cool 'almost' as well
(certainly good enough), and the speed difference is minimal, unless
accompanied by many other changes.
The downside of the plenum is it makes that much more work to install,
to get the cowl on and off, and to get at the plugs, injectors, etc.
Just another opinion.
Finally, the Sam James setup is very good, and if you 'must' have a
plenum, and aren't thrilled about fabrication, his is a great option.
Dw
94 RV-6 912hrs
Do not archive
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Beaded end on aluminum tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 10/24/05 8:34:56 AM Central Daylight Time,
dwight@openweave.org writes:
> These aluminum tubes have a bead
> >where it enters the hose to the crankcase.
> > SEE http://www.mts.net/~ghinman/Bead.html
> > What tool do I need to make these?
>>>>
Would a VERY short flare, made with a normal flaring tool do the job? I did
this on the support tubes for my Vetterman exhaust, and they seem to be
holding well...
Mark Phillips
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap position system |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Kugler" <donkugler@earthlink.net>
Folks,
In my RV8, I used the position to the right of the top-hat on the
Infinity grip for a starter button (front-seat only). I have a toggle
switch on the panel located to the right of my conventional mag/starter
key switch to enable the stick switch. To the left of the key switch is
my fuel pump toggle switch. All three of these switches are on the
left-hand sub-panel above the throttle quad. Even though you can crank
the engine from the key or the stick, in over 400 hours I've only used
the key to crank it once or twice, mosty just to make sure it worked.
The button on the stick works great and makes for a very ergonomic
arrangement. The other stick grip switches are dedicated as follows:
1) Top Right - Momentary PB for starter front seat only. No function
in rear.
2) Top Center - Top-hat - pitch and roll trim, front and rear seats.
3) Top Left - Toggle for the flaps. Momentary for down, locking for
up (good for go-arounds and t&gs). In the back seat it's momentary both
ways so it doesn't ever get left in a position and lock out the front
seat.
4) Trigger is for guns, er, PTT or course.
5) Lower pinky switch is a momentary for auto pilot interrupt (aka
control wheel steering) for both the front and rear seats.
6) That leaves the switch position on the left side, halfway down which
I reserved initailly and didn't initally assign a function. Having
flown many hours of formation since completing the airplane, this switch
would bet be served in my application for taxi/landing lights.
Switching hands and having to look down to the right side switch/breaker
panel while in close flight is difficult when the call comes for "lights
on".
All rear seat functions can be disabled from the front seat position
with a switch on the panel. The rear stick is removable via a quick
release pin and a multi-pin connector.
Hope this helps someone.
-Don
Don Kugler
RV8 - NJ
don@earthlink.net
908-303-6578 - direct
Message 9
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Subject: | back on the list - Rant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JIM" <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Hello all,
Due to requirements like feeding the family, I was away from the list (and sadly
my 7A project) for a few months. Happily I'm back, and like a homecoming I
see that the on-going "soap opera" of the list continues! In most cases, a lot
of good information and experience gets passed from builder to builder, and
this List has made that possible. Having been on the list for several years I
have seen the improvements and applaud Matt in bringing this to reality, but
for all its value some listers seem to have forgotten the main reasons why it
exists.
What upsets me is the way the list has deteriorated in some aspects. As Listers,
I think we have a responsibility to inform each other and explain our points
of view and experiences, rather than the constant drone of flaming that seems
to go on anymore. Some of us whine and complain because we forget that there
are lot's of RV's out there, and Van's is no longer just a little business operating
out of a small hangar in Oregon. For the size of the operation and the
logistics involved, I think Van's is exceptional in their customer service,
compared to other companies and other industries.
Part of being a Builder is having the mindset of listening and learning from others.
No one has seen or done it all! If they claim they have...run away!
Many prospective and first time builders come to the list to get a feel for what
is involved in building an RV. When they see 15-20 posts from a couple of builders
slamming each other's ideas, someone that is whining because no one explained
why Van's can't send a wing kit through the mail, or debating the constant
argument of ND alternators without giving pro and cons of each type...whew!
They go off and build a GlassAir or worse yet, decide to never build any thing.
I remember building a BD-5 back in the 70's. There were no lists, no builders
forums, and rarely another project close by. Only an occasional letter from Jim
Bede saying that your order had been delayed yet again, or asking for more money!
Pre-punching, pre-forming, pre-cut, pre-fabricated didn't exist. Heck,
even most of the material spec.'s weren't in the plans! This was reverse engineering
to the Nth degree. To say the least, you were truly on your own!
Those of you who were around back then can remember what it was like. Hundreds
of companies offered plans or kits but went belly up before you could finish
the project.
Hopefully this rant will remind all of us why we build airplanes, and why we utilize
this list. How it was just a few years ago and the resources we have now.
Let's get back to the reasons why we build and fly our own ships and quit
all the sniffling, please...
Jim Duckett, N708JD
Please do not archive
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: back on the list - Rant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
Jim,
Sometimes all the "sniffling" provides valued information to me. When the
thread no longer has any value ( or humor) for me, I simply hit delete on
the remaining of the thread. I receive lots of e-mail from friends and
family also containing forwards and jokes (rarely useful) that I just hit
delete on. This seems like the best of both worlds since each can choose
his level of read. Adding "Do Not Archive" is of course the most valuable
phrase when it isn't useful for later reading.
Not a flame, just a perspective to consider
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: JIM
Subject: RV-List: back on the list - Rant
--> RV-List message posted by: "JIM" <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Hello all,
Due to requirements like feeding the family, I was away from the list (and
sadly my 7A project) for a few months. Happily I'm back, and like a
homecoming I see that the on-going "soap opera" of the list continues! In
most cases, a lot of good information and experience gets passed from
builder to builder, and this List has made that possible. Having been on
the list for several years I have seen the improvements and applaud Matt in
bringing this to reality, but for all its value some listers seem to have
forgotten the main reasons why it exists.
What upsets me is the way the list has deteriorated in some aspects. As
Listers, I think we have a responsibility to inform each other and explain
our points of view and experiences, rather than the constant drone of
flaming that seems to go on anymore. Some of us whine and complain because
we forget that there are lot's of RV's out there, and Van's is no longer
just a little business operating out of a small hangar in Oregon. For the
size of the operation and the logistics involved, I think Van's is
exceptional in their customer service, compared to other companies and other
industries.
Part of being a Builder is having the mindset of listening and learning from
others. No one has seen or done it all! If they claim they have...run
away!
Many prospective and first time builders come to the list to get a feel for
what is involved in building an RV. When they see 15-20 posts from a couple
of builders slamming each other's ideas, someone that is whining because no
one explained why Van's can't send a wing kit through the mail, or debating
the constant argument of ND alternators without giving pro and cons of each
type...whew! They go off and build a GlassAir or worse yet, decide to never
build any thing.
I remember building a BD-5 back in the 70's. There were no lists, no
builders forums, and rarely another project close by. Only an occasional
letter from Jim Bede saying that your order had been delayed yet again, or
asking for more money! Pre-punching, pre-forming, pre-cut, pre-fabricated
didn't exist. Heck, even most of the material spec.'s weren't in the plans!
This was reverse engineering to the Nth degree. To say the least, you were
truly on your own!
Those of you who were around back then can remember what it was like.
Hundreds of companies offered plans or kits but went belly up before you
could finish the project.
Hopefully this rant will remind all of us why we build airplanes, and why we
utilize this list. How it was just a few years ago and the resources we
have now. Let's get back to the reasons why we build and fly our own ships
and quit all the sniffling, please...
Jim Duckett, N708JD
Please do not archive
Message 11
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|
Subject: | Re: Empennage Finished! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Great News.
Now all you've got to do is the wings and the fuselage and the canopy and the engine
and the panel... Just kidding!
Finishing the empennage means you have the patience, skill and ability, plus the
perseverance to finish the whole darn plane; in due time of course. It is a
REALLY big accomplishment. You should be proud of achieving this milestone.
As they say if you don't start, you'll never finish!
My congratulations,
Greg in Honolulu
N79PT finally flying
MLWynn@aol.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Well folks,
After nine months, 294 hours and a number of re-do's, I finally finished the
empennage. It is not perfect, but most of it is pretty good. I certainly
think it is airworthy with only a few cosmetic defects.
Just a note of thanks for all on the list that have made helpful suggestions
during this, the newbie stage. On to the wings!
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Wings
San Ramon, California
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: back on the list - Rant |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> Sometimes all the "sniffling" provides valued information to me. When the
> thread no longer has any value ( or humor) for me, I simply hit delete on
> the remaining of the thread. I receive lots of e-mail from friends and
> family also containing forwards and jokes (rarely useful) that I just hit
> delete on. This seems like the best of both worlds since each can
choose
> his level of read. Adding "Do Not Archive" is of course the most valuable
> phrase when it isn't useful for later reading.
>
> Not a flame, just a perspective to consider
> Tim
I think Tim makes a good point. I've been on this list since 1996 and have
given thoughts to dropping off of it, many times. For some unknown reason,
even though I've become very versed at hitting the delete key, I'm still
here. In fact, I just recommended the RV-list to two new builders in the
past week. One isn't even building a RV! His kit is aluminum, though; so,
I figured he'd get something out of it. However, I did give the warnings I
suggest to any other person I talk with about the RV-list, such as not being
too fast to throw away a part when somebody on the list says to do so, not
buying expensive tools on a lister's recommendations when cheaper ones will
do the job just fine, and not getting involved in the match drilling,
primer, and gascolator wars. :-) Actually, I told them the best place to
look for answers is in the archives. There, they can weed out some of the
nonsense a bit more easily. Of course, they have my phone number, if they
think I can answer their questions. Goodness knows I'll give it my best
shot or recommend someone else who can.
Granted, we should have a little fun, from time to time; but, I oftentimes
wish those who could answer each other directly on personal items (and
clowning around) would do so directly instead of using the RV-list. I've
found the going off line is a very good way to do that sort of thing. Hey,
I even do most of my replies to questions off line, these days. Oftentimes,
I find that a person's question is never answered because of the Tom foolery
that goes on within the list. When that happens, we've not lived up to what
the list was intended for. Alas, I've been flamed more times than one about
this very subject when I spoke up against it. It's not going to stop; so, I
guess we'll just have to get out of the list what we can and just leave it
when we can. Many good contributors already have. One of these days, I'm
sure I will, too.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (on hold due to lack of interest, right now)
EAA Tech Counselor
do not archive
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
I have the same setup and use a covered "Start Enable" toggle switch. The
toggle is flipped up for start and then disengaged/covered after the engine
is running. Bumping the start button after this point has no effect.
Vince
RV-8A
>From: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system
>Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2005 08:57:48 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>Charles:
> Having the starter button on the stick sounds like a great
>convenience, but isn't there a fairly high chance of engaging the
>started by accident in flight? Your fingers are a fraction of an inch
>from it all the time and the switch doesn't take much pressure to
>activate.
>
>Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
><crowbotham@hotmail.com>
> >
> > It reduces your work load and is comfortible.
> >
> >Our switch lay is as follows:
> >
> > Top - Center - Coolie hat (Trim - Elev and Airl)
> > Left - Flap ( Toggle - momtenarty > Up and Down)
> > Right - Start button (relay req)
> >
> >
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
>
>
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
I have the same setup and use a covered "Start Enable" toggle switch. The
toggle is flipped up for start and then disengaged/covered after the engine
is running. Bumping the start button after this point has no effect.
Vince
RV-8A
>From: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system
>Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2005 08:57:48 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>Charles:
> Having the starter button on the stick sounds like a great
>convenience, but isn't there a fairly high chance of engaging the
>started by accident in flight? Your fingers are a fraction of an inch
>from it all the time and the switch doesn't take much pressure to
>activate.
>
>Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
><crowbotham@hotmail.com>
> >
> > It reduces your work load and is comfortible.
> >
> >Our switch lay is as follows:
> >
> > Top - Center - Coolie hat (Trim - Elev and Airl)
> > Left - Flap ( Toggle - momtenarty > Up and Down)
> > Right - Start button (relay req)
> >
> >
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
>
>
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 13:34:36 2005-10-24 "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I have the same setup and use a covered "Start Enable" toggle switch.
> The toggle is flipped up for start and then disengaged/covered after
> the engine is running. Bumping the start button after this point has
> no effect.
Another option is to use two momentary SPST switches to enable your
starter... One on the throttle, and one on the stick. That way starting
requires you to have your hands on your throttle and stick (which is a good
idea anyway) and the probability of accidentally hitting *both* in flight
is much lower.
That will be my configuration, anyway. It does require that you find a
throttle handle that has a pushbutton on it. Mine is from something
military and has "IGN" (which i'll use for start) and a "SPEED BRAKE
EXTEND/RETRACT" toggle (which i'll use for flaps).
-Rob
Do not archive
Message 16
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|
Subject: | Re: Van's IS everything it used to be |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting Stephanie Marshall <smarshall@enid.org>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall@enid.org>
>
> I have to argue with the guys that are saying that Van's isn't the company
> they used to be.
>
> They accidentally sent our empennage kit to the wrong address (our home
> rather than work) and when I called to let them know they might want to look
> at their process they couldn't apologize enough.
>
> The manager of the shipping department later called herself to apologies,
> they re-funded part of the shipping, gave us an RV-8 shirt and a free
> rv-ator.
>
> I have NOTHING BUT GOOD to say about Vans.
>
> www.rv-8a.4t.com
>
> Stephanie Marshall
Good for you, my experience has been the opposite. I must say first
there is no question, they have the best product, for the money....
If only all people would be, more towards quality service, would be great.
There are some people, and I say "some people" have been the worst for me..
one example, I just receive a letter, asking for payment of a bill, which
was paid long ago..the item was return, now they do not where it is...
with Van's the client is always wrong, they are right wer are wrong....
Long ago I decided, not to buy anything from them if I can help it..
my wife definitely, is not a fan of Van's..
You will love your plane, I am enjoying mine now...
Bert
> Software Support Tech.
> City of Enid
> smarshall@enid.org <mailto:smarshall2enid.org>
> 580-234-0400 X-3030
> www.enid.org <http://www.enid.org/>
>
> This electronic mail message is intended exclusively for the individual or
> entity to which it is addressed. This message, together with any attachment,
> may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review,
> use, print, retain, copy, disclosure or distribution is strictly prohibited.
> If you have received this message in error, please immediately advise the
> sender and delete all copies of this message. Thank you
>
>
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Protecting flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
I have the tape Van's sells for protecting flaps from scratches as they roll
up under the wing skin. However, I don't really like how it looks when the
flaps are down and the tape is showing on the flaps. Can you give me some other
tried and tested ideas which work well? Someone suggested felt glued under
the overhanging wing skin. Someone suggested putting Van's tape under the
overhanging wing skins rather than on the flaps. What works and what doesn't?
Or
should I just live with the tape on the flaps?
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, flying and prepping for paint
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Re: Van's IS everything it used to be |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Bert,
I feel you and your wife might of had a bad experience. It Happens. I wish all
companies could work in 100% satisfaction mode. It doesn't happen. I myself have
have many questionable experiences with Van's. We get through them. They want
to help. They have had many growing pains. They will survive and you can too.
Darrell
do not archive
bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting Stephanie Marshall :
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
>
> I have to argue with the guys that are saying that Van's isn't the company
> they used to be.
>
> They accidentally sent our empennage kit to the wrong address (our home
> rather than work) and when I called to let them know they might want to look
> at their process they couldn't apologize enough.
>
> The manager of the shipping department later called herself to apologies,
> they re-funded part of the shipping, gave us an RV-8 shirt and a free
> rv-ator.
>
> I have NOTHING BUT GOOD to say about Vans.
>
> www.rv-8a.4t.com
>
> Stephanie Marshall
Good for you, my experience has been the opposite. I must say first
there is no question, they have the best product, for the money....
If only all people would be, more towards quality service, would be great.
There are some people, and I say "some people" have been the worst for me..
one example, I just receive a letter, asking for payment of a bill, which
was paid long ago..the item was return, now they do not where it is...
with Van's the client is always wrong, they are right wer are wrong....
Long ago I decided, not to buy anything from them if I can help it..
my wife definitely, is not a fan of Van's..
You will love your plane, I am enjoying mine now...
Bert
> Software Support Tech.
> City of Enid
> smarshall@enid.org
> 580-234-0400 X-3030
> www.enid.org
>
> This electronic mail message is intended exclusively for the individual or
> entity to which it is addressed. This message, together with any attachment,
> may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review,
> use, print, retain, copy, disclosure or distribution is strictly prohibited.
> If you have received this message in error, please immediately advise the
> sender and delete all copies of this message. Thank you
>
>
Darrell
RV7A - 622DR Reserved
---------------------------------
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Re: Protecting flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 10/24/2005 4:44:24 PM Central Standard Time,
PeterHunt1@aol.com writes:
What works and what doesn't? Or
should I just live with the tape on the flaps?
>>
Tape on the flaps works fine- some here on the list, as you have mentioned,
have it on the wing skin, but my concern would be that all the wear to the tape
is at the skin trailing edge exclusively instead of spread across the surface
of the flap, and could wear through until the flap was scarred, the threat of
which had me stick mine on the flaps- (those who have done so will chime in,
please). If the looks really bug ya, just raise the unsightly things after
you deplane or retape at each annual...
Mark Phillips
Message 20
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|
Subject: | Re: back on the list - Rant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham@hotmail.com>
Greetings.....here here Jim I AGREE. I just love the delete key when I read
the first hint of someone who has got their hair high on the back of their
neck!!!!
Frank @ SGU and SLC.......looking for info not a Jerry Springer show
>From: <sears@searnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: back on the list - Rant
>Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 15:49:42 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
> > Sometimes all the "sniffling" provides valued information to me. When
>the
> > thread no longer has any value ( or humor) for me, I simply hit delete
>on
> > the remaining of the thread. I receive lots of e-mail from friends and
> > family also containing forwards and jokes (rarely useful) that I just
>hit
> > delete on. This seems like the best of both worlds since each can
>choose
> > his level of read. Adding "Do Not Archive" is of course the most
>valuable
> > phrase when it isn't useful for later reading.
> >
> > Not a flame, just a perspective to consider
> > Tim
>
>I think Tim makes a good point. I've been on this list since 1996 and have
>given thoughts to dropping off of it, many times. For some unknown reason,
>even though I've become very versed at hitting the delete key, I'm still
>here. In fact, I just recommended the RV-list to two new builders in the
>past week. One isn't even building a RV! His kit is aluminum, though; so,
>I figured he'd get something out of it. However, I did give the warnings I
>suggest to any other person I talk with about the RV-list, such as not
>being
>too fast to throw away a part when somebody on the list says to do so, not
>buying expensive tools on a lister's recommendations when cheaper ones will
>do the job just fine, and not getting involved in the match drilling,
>primer, and gascolator wars. :-) Actually, I told them the best place to
>look for answers is in the archives. There, they can weed out some of the
>nonsense a bit more easily. Of course, they have my phone number, if they
>think I can answer their questions. Goodness knows I'll give it my best
>shot or recommend someone else who can.
>
>Granted, we should have a little fun, from time to time; but, I oftentimes
>wish those who could answer each other directly on personal items (and
>clowning around) would do so directly instead of using the RV-list. I've
>found the going off line is a very good way to do that sort of thing. Hey,
>I even do most of my replies to questions off line, these days.
>Oftentimes,
>I find that a person's question is never answered because of the Tom
>foolery
>that goes on within the list. When that happens, we've not lived up to
>what
>the list was intended for. Alas, I've been flamed more times than one
>about
>this very subject when I spoke up against it. It's not going to stop; so,
>I
>guess we'll just have to get out of the list what we can and just leave it
>when we can. Many good contributors already have. One of these days, I'm
>sure I will, too.
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
>RV-7A #70317 (on hold due to lack of interest, right now)
>EAA Tech Counselor
>do not archive
>
>
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: Protecting flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Pete:
Use the fuzzy portion of velcro and use its own sticky back to adhere it to
the underside of the top wingskin overhang. Works real slick.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Prop is here!!! almost set for engine start
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: <PeterHunt1@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Protecting flaps
> --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
>
> I have the tape Van's sells for protecting flaps from scratches as they
> roll
> up under the wing skin. However, I don't really like how it looks when
> the
> flaps are down and the tape is showing on the flaps. Can you give me some
> other
> tried and tested ideas which work well? Someone suggested felt glued
> under
> the overhanging wing skin. Someone suggested putting Van's tape under the
> overhanging wing skins rather than on the flaps. What works and what
> doesn't? Or
> should I just live with the tape on the flaps?
>
> Pete in Clearwater
> RV-6, flying and prepping for paint
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
Subject: | Re:High Temperature Epoxy (was attaching plenum) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
Hi Bob,
I use a vinyl-ester called Derakane, which is available in a hi-temp
version. It is used to make the carbon fibre mufflers for after-market
motorcycle exhaust systems. I think it is Derakane 470 but check with your
local supplier.
FWIW - We use regular Derakane here for Glassair III's.
Cheers
Martin in Oz
RV-6 : 170 hrs
Message 23
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|
Subject: | Re: Protecting flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
GREAT IDEA!!! Thanks!
Darrell
do not archive
Jeff Orear <jorear@new.rr.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear"
Pete:
Use the fuzzy portion of velcro and use its own sticky back to adhere it to
the underside of the top wingskin overhang. Works real slick.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Prop is here!!! almost set for engine start
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From:
Subject: RV-List: Protecting flaps
> --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
>
> I have the tape Van's sells for protecting flaps from scratches as they
> roll
> up under the wing skin. However, I don't really like how it looks when
> the
> flaps are down and the tape is showing on the flaps. Can you give me some
> other
> tried and tested ideas which work well? Someone suggested felt glued
> under
> the overhanging wing skin. Someone suggested putting Van's tape under the
> overhanging wing skins rather than on the flaps. What works and what
> doesn't? Or
> should I just live with the tape on the flaps?
>
> Pete in Clearwater
> RV-6, flying and prepping for paint
>
>
>
Darrell
RV7A - 622DR Reserved
---------------------------------
Message 24
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|
Subject: | Re: Protecting flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
Hi Pete,
I used the Van's supplied teflon tape on the underside of the top skin, and
have no scratches or unsightly tape line showing when the flaps are
deployed. After 170 hrs it looks like new.
Cheers
Martin in Oz
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Re: Protecting flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Wish I could take credit for it, but alas.........
Heard about it from Joe Schumacher. I plan to use it on the aft skins of my
slider canopy also.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
finishing up
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Reiley" <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Protecting flaps
> --> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> GREAT IDEA!!! Thanks!
>
>
> Darrell
> do not archive
>
> Jeff Orear <jorear@new.rr.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear"
>
> Pete:
>
> Use the fuzzy portion of velcro and use its own sticky back to adhere it
> to
> the underside of the top wingskin overhang. Works real slick.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P
> Prop is here!!! almost set for engine start
> Peshtigo, WI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Protecting flaps
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
>>
>> I have the tape Van's sells for protecting flaps from scratches as they
>> roll
>> up under the wing skin. However, I don't really like how it looks when
>> the
>> flaps are down and the tape is showing on the flaps. Can you give me some
>> other
>> tried and tested ideas which work well? Someone suggested felt glued
>> under
>> the overhanging wing skin. Someone suggested putting Van's tape under the
>> overhanging wing skins rather than on the flaps. What works and what
>> doesn't? Or
>> should I just live with the tape on the flaps?
>>
>> Pete in Clearwater
>> RV-6, flying and prepping for paint
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Darrell
>
> RV7A - 622DR Reserved
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: back on the list - Rant |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Frank Stringham wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham@hotmail.com>
>
>Greetings.....here here Jim I AGREE. I just love the delete key when I read
>the first hint of someone who has got their hair high on the back of their
>neck!!!!
>
>Frank @ SGU and SLC.......looking for info not a Jerry Springer show
>
>
>
Hmmm... should I take that personally or not? :-) Just tickles me how
hundreds of line of text are wrtitten
by people complaining about something or other. Seems much more spaceis
used by the complainers than anything else.
If people would use the do not archive properly there would not be a
problem, that is my complaint. :)
Jerry
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: Protecting flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
You may want to consider the little nylon buttons that
Cessna uses to keep the flaps from rubbing the wing.
They are low profile and translucent white in color.
You have to drill holes for them to snap into. Check
out your neighbors Cessna at the airport. Ask him to
drop the flaps. They are probably the cheapest part
Cessna sells, about 5 cents each.
Dave Nellis
7A N410DN (Res.)
--- PeterHunt1@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
>
> I have the tape Van's sells for protecting flaps
> from scratches as they roll
> up under the wing skin. However, I don't really
> like how it looks when the
> flaps are down and the tape is showing on the flaps.
> Can you give me some other
> tried and tested ideas which work well? Someone
> suggested felt glued under
> the overhanging wing skin. Someone suggested
> putting Van's tape under the
> overhanging wing skins rather than on the flaps.
> What works and what doesn't? Or
> should I just live with the tape on the flaps?
>
> Pete in Clearwater
> RV-6, flying and prepping for paint
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil drain valves.
The price on this one seems too good to be true but I'm not sure price
is a good indicator here.
thx,
lucky
do not archive
http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil drain valves.
The price on this one seems too good to be truebutI'm not sure price is
a good indicator here.
thx,
lucky
do not archive
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Bowen <larry@bowenaero.com>
I recently switched to the Fumoto T202N quick drain. Very stout and
zero leaks.
http://google.com/search?q=Fumoto+T202N
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
lucky wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
>
> Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil drain
valves. The price on this one seems too good to be true but I'm not sure price
is a good indicator here.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> do not archive
>
> http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
>
> Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil drain
valves. The price on this one seems too good to be truebutI'm not sure price is
a good indicator here.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
lucky wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
>
> Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick
> oil drain valves. The price on this one seems too good to be true
> but I'm not sure price is a good indicator here.
A similarly-priced quick drain (don't know if it is the same drain as
this one or not) has worked perfectly on my O-320 for the past 550 hrs.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
Message 31
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Subject: | Re: Protecting flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan Krueger <pndkrueg@mchsi.com>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
>>
>> I have the tape Van's sells for protecting flaps
>> from scratches as they roll
>> up under the wing skin. However, I don't really
>> like how it looks when the
>> flaps are down and the tape is showing on the fla
You may want to consider using the original stainless steel tape on the
flaps that Van used to use. You can get it from J C Whitney. The UHMW
tape does not hold up near as well as the SS tape - a RV down the row
from me has the UHMW tape on the flaps and it is worn out - granted
after several hundred hours. One draw back that a couple of us have
noted is the SS does not stick very well at the corners - a simple
pressing with your thumb during preflight solves this "problem".
Dan Krueger
RV6A - Flying - with the classic stainless steel tape flap protection
Message 32
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Subject: | Starter not disengaging |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
1.53 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@comcast.net
Hey guys, I should have guessed things were going too well. At 146 hours the Sky
Tec starter pinion gear on my factory new (from Van's) O-360 A1A has started
to hang up for a second or two on each engine start. I'd sure appreciate any
insight anyone can provide as to what is causing this and what the fix is.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 146 hours
Hey guys, I should have guessed things were going too well. At 146 hours the Sky
Tec starter pinion gear on my factory new (from Van's) O-360 A1A has started
to hang up for a second or two on each engine start. I'd sure appreciate any
insight anyone can provide as to what is causing this and what the fix is.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 146 hours
Message 33
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Subject: | Oil cooler types. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
My Van's FWF kit came with an Aero Classics 7 row oil cooler. This appears
to be made of stamped sheet metal (with brass ends) as opposed to the welded
aluminum of the Stewart Warner and Positec coolers. It is PMA for PA-28-180
and several other production aircraft so it will work with my engine and
fits behind the rear baffle with no problems. But...never heard of it
before on this list so....is it the standard Van's FWF kit item? Anyone
have experience with it? Ok to use? Or should I send it back and get SW or
POS?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Finishing baffles
Message 34
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Subject: | Oil cooler baffle mounting. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Baffle work is almost done but:
Oil cooler mounting on the back of the left rear baffle remains. I have
lain out the location and figured how much area of the baffle I can cut out
(above the fins on the left rear cylinder). If I'm conservative I get about
2/3 of the cooler area above the cylinder fins (measured from the top of the
fins to top of the cooler hole in the baffle). If I move the cooler up
until it's about 3/8 inch below the top of the cowl I can get about 80% of
the area above the top of the cylinder fins. I know the drawing recommends
placing the cooler as high as possible but I DON'T want the cooler to hit
the cowl when the engine shakes. Any recommendations here?
And...has everyone just cut the hole in the baffle from the top of the oil
cooler to the top of the cylinder fins or are you cutting the hole full oil
cooler size? This puts the baffle hole below the top of the rear cylinder
cooling fins, won't that dump too much air out and cause hot spots on that
cylinder?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Thought I was finished with aluminum fabrication...
Message 35
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Subject: | Oil cooler baffle beef-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Having read the Checkoway oil cooler saga, his recommendations and looking
at his pictures...I see he has NOT used the flimsy mounting template that
Van's provides. He also mentions that several people he's talked to have had
problems with the Van's set up. So (I hope the folks he's referring to are
on this list) should I beef up the cooler mounting using the heavy channels
that Dan used (where'd you get those channels Dan)? Or something else? I
have an RV-6A and there doesn't seem to be a lot of clearance behind the
cooler (oil cooler flange to engine mount clearance) to add much width
between the back baffle and the cooler mounting flange. Suggestions?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Dodged the hurricane bullet again...
Message 36
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Subject: | Re: Engines-List: Starter not disengaging |
--> RV-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
Here is a fix and an explanation from a Skytek person:
Lots of folks with experimental aircraft use the solenoid on our starter as
the only starter relay, running the push-button to the S terminal of our
solenoid and removing the jumper we supply. This eliminates the 'after
run'.
The Sky-Tec permanent magnet starters like your 149-24LS act as generators
while they spin down after you release the start switch. During this time,
the flywheel spins the one-way clutch behind the pinion gear. The clutch
prevents the engine from spinning the starter armature while it coasts to a
stop. While the armature is still spinning and coasting down, the power it
generated causes the engagement solenioid to hold in. When the armature
spins down to a slow enough point, the solenoid releases and the pinion
disengages from the ring. The hold-in time depends on the starter RPM and
the friction in the starter, which probably becomes less as the starter gets
used. This time ranges from unobservable to about 8 seconds, in our
experience. This is normal operation and is not a problem.
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Got the baffles trimmed on top:
Except the front bulkhead behind the spinner and the side baffles up front
at the inlet ramp area of the top cowl (already glassed the ramps in before
starting baffles, may have been a mistake). For those who have NOT spent an
extra man month building a plenum box over the engine.....how did you trim
the baffle sides at the top cowl inlet ramp area?? Did you just follow the
contour of the inlet ramp (trimming the aluminum to provide a 3/8 gap like
the inlet floors) and have the airseal flap sit against the ramp? Or am I
missing something? Also, how wide of a strip of airseal rubber did you use?
How much over lap on the baffle? On the cowl? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Lots of baffle questions tonight...
Message 38
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Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/24/2005 9:54:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
luckymacy@comcast.net writes:
Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil drain
valves.
==============================
Get the Fumoto. See the Yeller Pages for which P/N and contact info.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 767hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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