Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:27 AM - Re: electric vs manual ()
2. 04:19 AM - Re: Infinity Stick Grip (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
3. 07:57 AM - Re: electric vs manual (Dan Morrow)
4. 10:26 AM - Tools (John Furey)
5. 11:36 AM - RV-10 lateral trim (Doug Weiler)
6. 12:21 PM - Re: RV-10 lateral trim (Frank Stringham)
7. 12:23 PM - Start Button on Infinity Stick Grip (Ken Brooks)
8. 12:40 PM - Re: RV-10 lateral trim (Brian Denk)
9. 12:45 PM - Re: Start Button on Infinity Stick Grip (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
10. 12:52 PM - Re: RV-10 lateral trim (Dan Checkoway)
11. 12:55 PM - Thermocouple wiring firewall pentrations (Ralph E. Capen)
12. 01:21 PM - Re: RV-10 lateral trim (Scott Bilinski)
13. 01:24 PM - Re: RV-10 lateral trim (Bruce Gray)
14. 01:24 PM - Re: Thermocouple wiring firewall pentrations INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912 (Luis)
15. 02:12 PM - Re: Re: oil drain valve (Tim Olson)
16. 02:53 PM - Re: RV-10 lateral trim (Dan Checkoway)
17. 03:06 PM - Re: Thermocouple wiring firewall pentrations INNOCENT (linn walters)
18. 03:18 PM - Re: RV-10 lateral trim (Bruce Gray)
19. 04:28 PM - Re: electric vs manual (Jeff Dowling)
20. 04:28 PM - Andair Fuel Valves (Neal George)
21. 06:35 PM - inside cowl prep ()
22. 06:48 PM - Re: inside cowl prep (Kyle Boatright)
23. 06:50 PM - Re: inside cowl prep (linn walters)
24. 07:16 PM - Re: inside cowl prep (Jim Jewell)
25. 07:39 PM - Re: inside cowl prep (Sam Buchanan)
26. 07:49 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List: Thermocouple wiring firewall pentrations (Richard E. Tasker)
27. 07:51 PM - http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0129.html (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
28. 08:00 PM - Re: inside cowl prep (linn walters)
29. 08:04 PM - Re: Start Button on Infinity Stick Grip (Larry Bowen)
30. 09:00 PM - Re: inside cowl prep (Ron Lee)
31. 09:24 PM - EGT probe sizes (Ed Bundy)
32. 09:31 PM - Re: EGT probe sizes (Vanremog@aol.com)
33. 11:18 PM - Re: EGT probe sizes (Michael McGee)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: electric vs manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> I'm as of yet only comtemplating building, so bare with me for asking
> fundamentals.
>
> Are electric/manual trim/flap-controls mutually exclusive, or can you have
a
> safe manual control that overrides a convenient electric?
As someone said, they're mutually exclusive. For the flaps, both versions
use
the same attach point on the flap horn. For the trim, the cable goes all
the
way back to the horn on the manual version. On the electric version, the
servo can sit in the elevator just in front of the horn or have a short
section of
cable attached to the horn that connects to the servo in the fuselage where
the
stabilizers are attached to the fuse.
Then, the discusson got into the speeds of the electrics. Not much was said
about the manual. I have a manual trim in my -6A that I've used for six
years.
I like it. I'm going to be installing the electric trim in my -7A only
because it
came with a deal I got on a tail kit from a good friend. I'm not sure I'll
like it
unless I put in the speed reducer. With a manual elevator trim, I can still
set
the trim if the battery power gets turned off. :-)
As for the flaps, I really do like my electric flaps and bought the
conversion when
it was an option. I've read from those who like their manual flaps. The
manual flap
does have its advantages; but, it also takes up space between the seats that
can be
used for other things. If memory serves me, you get the electric flaps in
the kits,
now.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 2
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| Subject: | Infinity Stick Grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I have nothing special on my stick, just a button. Have yet to hit the
button when I did not want to. Course you do have to fly your airplane
more than 10 hours a year to know where and what the buttons do.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity Stick Grip
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I used the green button as the starter button and just machined a
counter
sunk ring to go over it. Have to stick your thumb in to the ring to
activate the starter and it works great.
At 03:28 PM 10/25/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: jim & terri truitt
<jimteri1@earthlink.net>
>
>I thought I submitted a post on this before. If you are worried about
>hitting the starter button when you have the starter on the stick - try
>what I did. Remove the red trigger button (it comes off) and wire your
>starter to that switch. The switch itself is recessed in the stick.
The
>red trigger is just a cover over the switch. You have to push your
finger
>into the grip to push the switch. Neither your finger or the fleshy
part
>of your hand can engage the switch without a deliberate action. 228
hours
>and no problem.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: electric vs manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Morrow" <DanFM01@butter.toast.net>
Piper Archers that have the optional electric trim installed have both
manual and electric trim controls. So it is possible, but you might have to
engineer your own system.
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: electric vs manual
> --> RV-List message posted by:
>
> I'm as of yet only comtemplating building, so bare with me for asking
> fundamentals.
>
> Are electric/manual trim/flap-controls mutually exclusive, or can you have
> a
> safe manual control that overrides a convenient electric?
> _
> /Bjorn.
>
>
> --
> 10/12/2005
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
A Paul Schaetzel asked about the tolls but my emails bounce back so please
call me at 330-205-8265
Thanks
John
Do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV-10 lateral trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
Greetings all:
I am flying the test time off of a friend's new RV-10. It now has about 21
hours total time but is flying left wing heavy. As you the RV-10's ailerons
are constructed differently than the "old" RVs which allowed the "squeeze
the aileron trick" to adjust lateral trim. It appears the only way to
correct this trim issue is to install a balsa TE piece under the right
aileron to bring that aileron up or to tweak the flap rigging. Does anyone
have another other suggestions. Right now we are3 using the balsa TE
material method as a temporary fix.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
Pres, MN Wing
Message 6
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| Subject: | RV-10 lateral trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham@hotmail.com>
Doug
As I remember(realize i am old) Dan Checkoway had a similar problem. Give
his web site a look see.
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: RV List <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
>Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 13:32:12 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
>
>Greetings all:
>
>I am flying the test time off of a friend's new RV-10. It now has about 21
>hours total time but is flying left wing heavy. As you the RV-10's
>ailerons
>are constructed differently than the "old" RVs which allowed the "squeeze
>the aileron trick" to adjust lateral trim. It appears the only way to
>correct this trim issue is to install a balsa TE piece under the right
>aileron to bring that aileron up or to tweak the flap rigging. Does anyone
>have another other suggestions. Right now we are3 using the balsa TE
>material method as a temporary fix.
>
>Thanks
>
>Doug Weiler
>Pres, MN Wing
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Start Button on Infinity Stick Grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
We wired a switch on the panel to disable the stick starter button. The
start button itself is at the top, far right of the right-hand grip so you
have to reach up and cross over with your thumb to start. Not likely to hit
it accidentally after engine start, but we added the stick-start disable
item to our checklist after engine start. It makes wiring a bit more
involved, but is a positive way to eliminate the possibility of accidental
starter engagement after initial start. Photos upon request.
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Message 8
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| Subject: | RV-10 lateral trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Greetings all:
>
>I am flying the test time off of a friend's new RV-10. It now has about 21
>hours total time but is flying left wing heavy. As you the RV-10's
>ailerons
>are constructed differently than the "old" RVs which allowed the "squeeze
>the aileron trick" to adjust lateral trim. It appears the only way to
>correct this trim issue is to install a balsa TE piece under the right
>aileron to bring that aileron up or to tweak the flap rigging. Does anyone
>have another other suggestions. Right now we are3 using the balsa TE
>material method as a temporary fix.
>
>Thanks
>
>Doug Weiler
>Pres, MN Wing
Move over and fly from the right seat?
Sorry, couldn't resist.
I'm also new to the riveted trailing edge phenomena and have wondered how to
trim the ailerons in the future on my -10. I think you can tweak the
trailing edge up or down with very judicious use of a hand seamer. Perhaps
it would only require a tiny amount of bias up or down to change the way the
aileron rides in neutral position. Otherwise, the balsa TE stock technique
is tried and true. Also, I tried monkeying around with flap postion on my
-8 to trim out some roll with zero results. They seem to be too close in to
the roll axis down the fuselage centerline to be of much help. Now, the
RV10 flaps go darn near full span so you might gain something there.
Van's might have something to say about this, so I'd ask them too.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
moving into airpark home this week. Where did I pack the rivet gun.....
Message 9
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| Subject: | Start Button on Infinity Stick Grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I did the exact same thing, right up through my flight test doing engine
out glides where I "startled" (read heart attack) myself when I pushed
the stick start button and nothing happened. Took be a few seconds to
figure out I had to rearm the switch on the panel.
I never used that da$#@$! panel switch again. I do not want to have to
remember to rearm it during an emergency situation.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Brooks
Subject: RV-List: Start Button on Infinity Stick Grip
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
We wired a switch on the panel to disable the stick starter button. The
start button itself is at the top, far right of the right-hand grip so
you
have to reach up and cross over with your thumb to start. Not likely to
hit
it accidentally after engine start, but we added the stick-start disable
item to our checklist after engine start. It makes wiring a bit more
involved, but is a positive way to eliminate the possibility of
accidental
starter engagement after initial start. Photos upon request.
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 lateral trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm not familiar with the RV-10's aileron hinge construction, but generally
speaking if you raise or lower the aileron relative to the rear spar of the
wing, it has a profound impact. Make very small corrections.
On the -3/-4/-6/-7/-8, you can "slot" the holes on the aileron attach
brackets in order to shift the aileron vertically relative to the wing.
Here are some photos:
http://www.rvproject.com/20050508.html
I believe this is also possible on the -9/-10, but I'm not positive.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham@hotmail.com>
>
> Doug
>
> As I remember(realize i am old) Dan Checkoway had a similar problem. Give
> his web site a look see.
>
> Frank @ SGU and SLC
>
>
> >From: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: RV List <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
> >Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 13:32:12 -0500
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
> >
> >Greetings all:
> >
> >I am flying the test time off of a friend's new RV-10. It now has about
21
> >hours total time but is flying left wing heavy. As you the RV-10's
> >ailerons
> >are constructed differently than the "old" RVs which allowed the "squeeze
> >the aileron trick" to adjust lateral trim. It appears the only way to
> >correct this trim issue is to install a balsa TE piece under the right
> >aileron to bring that aileron up or to tweak the flap rigging. Does
anyone
> >have another other suggestions. Right now we are3 using the balsa TE
> >material method as a temporary fix.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Doug Weiler
> >Pres, MN Wing
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Thermocouple wiring firewall pentrations |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow trons.....
I'm getting started on my firewall forward wiring for my VM1000. I have four EGT
and CHT wiring sets that need to pass through the firewall on their journey
to the DPU.
I would like to be able to disconnect them at the firewall with a canon-plug type
connector for ease of maintenance and firewall integrity reasons.
A note to Vision Microsystems got me the response that it can be done but I need
to use special thermocouple extension grade pins due to an additional thermocouple
junction at the firewall.
Please provide me with some education on this - my common sense tells me that it
is an electrical signal once it leaves the thermocouple and that electricity
is not affected by a firewall - unless maybe it is on fire.......there is a connector
at the DPU - wouldn't that connector cause the same problem?
I do take stock in their response - but need to understand the mechanics/physics
etc.
Maybe it is not worth the trouble to wire a disconnect at this point and I should
run the wiring direct from the thermocouple to the DPU.
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR N06 90% 90%
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 lateral trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I think you will find that the light wing has a larger gap between the
aileron and upper wing skin, as compared to the other wing. Some people
slot the holes and adjust the aileron so they are even. I know a guy who
did this and he only needed to move it about .032 and then it was on the
money. Me personally, I would fill the slotted area with JB weld and then
tighten the bolt.
At 01:32 PM 10/26/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
>
>Greetings all:
>
>I am flying the test time off of a friend's new RV-10. It now has about 21
>hours total time but is flying left wing heavy. As you the RV-10's ailerons
>are constructed differently than the "old" RVs which allowed the "squeeze
>the aileron trick" to adjust lateral trim. It appears the only way to
>correct this trim issue is to install a balsa TE piece under the right
>aileron to bring that aileron up or to tweak the flap rigging. Does anyone
>have another other suggestions. Right now we are3 using the balsa TE
>material method as a temporary fix.
>
>Thanks
>
>Doug Weiler
>Pres, MN Wing
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 13
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| Subject: | RV-10 lateral trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Why don't you just install electric roll trim?
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm not familiar with the RV-10's aileron hinge construction, but generally
speaking if you raise or lower the aileron relative to the rear spar of the
wing, it has a profound impact. Make very small corrections.
On the -3/-4/-6/-7/-8, you can "slot" the holes on the aileron attach
brackets in order to shift the aileron vertically relative to the wing.
Here are some photos:
http://www.rvproject.com/20050508.html
I believe this is also possible on the -9/-10, but I'm not positive.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham@hotmail.com>
>
> Doug
>
> As I remember(realize i am old) Dan Checkoway had a similar problem. Give
> his web site a look see.
>
> Frank @ SGU and SLC
>
>
> >From: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: RV List <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
> >Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 13:32:12 -0500
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
> >
> >Greetings all:
> >
> >I am flying the test time off of a friend's new RV-10. It now has about
21
> >hours total time but is flying left wing heavy. As you the RV-10's
> >ailerons
> >are constructed differently than the "old" RVs which allowed the "squeeze
> >the aileron trick" to adjust lateral trim. It appears the only way to
> >correct this trim issue is to install a balsa TE piece under the right
> >aileron to bring that aileron up or to tweak the flap rigging. Does
anyone
> >have another other suggestions. Right now we are3 using the balsa TE
> >material method as a temporary fix.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Doug Weiler
> >Pres, MN Wing
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple wiring firewall pentrations INNOCENT GLOBAL |
0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: Luis <luis.orozco@gmail.com>
Hi Ralph,
I've been lurking for a while, and I figured this is something I can
contribute to. Please forgive me if some of this is obvious...
A thermocouple is just two wires of different metals welded together. There
is a small voltage developed at the junction of the two wires that changes
with temperature. If you take the two thermocouple wires and wire them to a
connector at the firewall, and then to the VM1000, you've just created two
more junctions. One from the thermocouple to the connector, and another from
the connector to the wire going to the VM1000. These junctions will also
generate voltages which will vary with temperature, introducing an error in
your measurement.
What they meant by 'thermocouple grade connectors' is that the contacts on
the connector are made of the same metal as the thermocouple wire. This way
there are no additional thermocouple junctions formed at the firewall
connector.
Now, you have a valid point about how the wires eventually go to a
connector on the VM1000, and that should affect the measurement as well.
I am not familiar with the inner workings of the VM1000 (Though I have
flown it once), but I would expect it to have an internal thermistor near
where the thermocouple wires connect to the unit. This thermistor is used to
measure the temperature at the 'cold junction' formed at the input
connector, and compensate for the error.
For everything you ever wanted to know about thermocouples, you can go to
www.omega.com <http://www.omega.com> . You can even order a free set of BIG
handbooks with great information.
I hope this helps!
Luis Orozco
Austin, TX -- Tooling up for an RV7A!
On 10/26/05, Ralph E. Capen <recapen@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Fellow trons.....
>
> I'm getting started on my firewall forward wiring for my VM1000. I have
> four EGT and CHT wiring sets that need to pass through the firewall on their
> journey to the DPU.
>
> I would like to be able to disconnect them at the firewall with a
> canon-plug type connector for ease of maintenance and firewall integrity
> reasons.
>
> A note to Vision Microsystems got me the response that it can be done but
> I need to use special thermocouple extension grade pins due to an additional
> thermocouple junction at the firewall.
>
> Please provide me with some education on this - my common sense tells me
> that it is an electrical signal once it leaves the thermocouple and that
> electricity is not affected by a firewall - unless maybe it is on
> fire.......there is a connector at the DPU - wouldn't that connector cause
> the same problem?
>
> I do take stock in their response - but need to understand the
> mechanics/physics etc.
>
> Maybe it is not worth the trouble to wire a disconnect at this point and I
> should run the wiring direct from the thermocouple to the DPU.
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB N822AR N06 90% 90%
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RE: oil drain valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
You triggered my memory that I needed to order my quick drain.
My quick check online found that Aircraft Spruce has the
Curtis Quick Drain Valve CCA-1700 ($11.65) and Quick Drain Hose
CCB-39600-1. ($10.80).
The only difference I can see is the above valve has a quick hose
fitting instead of a stem. Any drawback to this valve over the one
you listed?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Brian Denk wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>>http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
>>
>>Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil
>>drain valves. The price on this one seems too good to be true but I'm not
>>sure price is a good indicator here.
>>
>>thx,
>>lucky
>>
>
>
> They should be fine. Rather odd how the advert describes it as made of
> aluminum and stainless in the long description then says it's made of brass
> as you read down to the bulleted specifications. It's probably solid brass
> and steel as mine was. Mine did start leaking so I replaced it with a
> Fumoto valve that is excellent. http://fumotovalve.com/
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 lateral trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Electric roll trim does work. But it means you'll have aileron deflection
(spring loaded or whatever), and thus additional drag. Fix the rigging,
don't treat the symptom with a bandaid. That's my 2 cents. If you don't
care about "total performance" (a la Van's) then forget it -- slap a wedge
on and be done with it. And I'll be glad to slow down for you and burn less
fuel when we fly together.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
> Why don't you just install electric roll trim?
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm not familiar with the RV-10's aileron hinge construction, but
generally
> speaking if you raise or lower the aileron relative to the rear spar of
the
> wing, it has a profound impact. Make very small corrections.
>
> On the -3/-4/-6/-7/-8, you can "slot" the holes on the aileron attach
> brackets in order to shift the aileron vertically relative to the wing.
> Here are some photos:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20050508.html
>
> I believe this is also possible on the -9/-10, but I'm not positive.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Stringham"
<fstringham@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Doug
> >
> > As I remember(realize i am old) Dan Checkoway had a similar problem. Giv
e
> > his web site a look see.
> >
> > Frank @ SGU and SLC
> >
> >
> > >From: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >To: RV List <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
> > >Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 13:32:12 -0500
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
> > >
> > >Greetings all:
> > >
> > >I am flying the test time off of a friend's new RV-10. It now has
about
> 21
> > >hours total time but is flying left wing heavy. As you the RV-10's
> > >ailerons
> > >are constructed differently than the "old" RVs which allowed the
"squeeze
> > >the aileron trick" to adjust lateral trim. It appears the only way to
> > >correct this trim issue is to install a balsa TE piece under the right
> > >aileron to bring that aileron up or to tweak the flap rigging. Does
> anyone
> > >have another other suggestions. Right now we are3 using the balsa TE
> > >material method as a temporary fix.
> > >
> > >Thanks
> > >
> > >Doug Weiler
> > >Pres, MN Wing
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple wiring firewall pentrations INNOCENT |
GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow trons.....
>
>I'm getting started on my firewall forward wiring for my VM1000. I have four
EGT and CHT wiring sets that need to pass through the firewall on their journey
to the DPU.
>
>I would like to be able to disconnect them at the firewall with a canon-plug type
connector for ease of maintenance and firewall integrity reasons.
>
Good thought!
>A note to Vision Microsystems got me the response that it can be done but I need
to use special thermocouple extension grade pins due to an additional thermocouple
junction at the firewall.
>
No surprise here.
>Please provide me with some education on this - my common sense tells me that
it is an electrical signal once it leaves the thermocouple and that electricity
is not affected by a firewall - unless maybe it is on fire.......there is a
connector at the DPU - wouldn't that connector cause the same problem?
>
It's probably a known quantity and is taken into account in the DPU.
>I do take stock in their response - but need to understand the mechanics/physics
etc.
>
Hmmm. How to explain. The thermocouple is made of two dissimilar
metals that are fused together. This 'junction' generates a small
voltage dependent on the temperature of the junction. Typically the
wire is the same from the junction all the way to the meter/DPU. My
memory isn't what it used to be, but I think the most common metals used
are Copper and Nickle. I could be wrong so check for yourself. Suffice
it to say, when you put in a connector, the wire changes from a copper
(or nickle) to tin plated (or gold plated) 'something' in the connector
and then back to it's native metal. The addition of the junction will
cause errors in the thermocouple readings.
>Maybe it is not worth the trouble to wire a disconnect at this point and I should
run the wiring direct from the thermocouple to the DPU.
>
Well, get the connector from VM or ask them where to get it. I think
you're on the right track to be able to unplug one harness instead of
removing 6 probes when you need to take the engine off. IMHO, of course!!!
Linn
do not archive
>
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR N06 90% 90%
>
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | RV-10 lateral trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Perhaps you might burn less gas, but slow down? My Glasair III cruses at 230
KTAS.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Electric roll trim does work. But it means you'll have aileron deflection
(spring loaded or whatever), and thus additional drag. Fix the rigging,
don't treat the symptom with a bandaid. That's my 2 cents. If you don't
care about "total performance" (a la Van's) then forget it -- slap a wedge
on and be done with it. And I'll be glad to slow down for you and burn less
fuel when we fly together.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
> Why don't you just install electric roll trim?
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm not familiar with the RV-10's aileron hinge construction, but
generally
> speaking if you raise or lower the aileron relative to the rear spar of
the
> wing, it has a profound impact. Make very small corrections.
>
> On the -3/-4/-6/-7/-8, you can "slot" the holes on the aileron attach
> brackets in order to shift the aileron vertically relative to the wing.
> Here are some photos:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20050508.html
>
> I believe this is also possible on the -9/-10, but I'm not positive.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Stringham"
<fstringham@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Doug
> >
> > As I remember(realize i am old) Dan Checkoway had a similar problem. Giv
e
> > his web site a look see.
> >
> > Frank @ SGU and SLC
> >
> >
> > >From: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >To: RV List <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: RV-List: RV-10 lateral trim
> > >Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 13:32:12 -0500
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
> > >
> > >Greetings all:
> > >
> > >I am flying the test time off of a friend's new RV-10. It now has
about
> 21
> > >hours total time but is flying left wing heavy. As you the RV-10's
> > >ailerons
> > >are constructed differently than the "old" RVs which allowed the
"squeeze
> > >the aileron trick" to adjust lateral trim. It appears the only way to
> > >correct this trim issue is to install a balsa TE piece under the right
> > >aileron to bring that aileron up or to tweak the flap rigging. Does
> anyone
> > >have another other suggestions. Right now we are3 using the balsa TE
> > >material method as a temporary fix.
> > >
> > >Thanks
> > >
> > >Doug Weiler
> > >Pres, MN Wing
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: electric vs manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I wouldnt worry about loss of electrics. The forces you're dealing with in
the event you lose trim and the lack of flaps wont add much of a problem.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: electric vs manual
> --> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
>> I'm as of yet only comtemplating building, so bare with me for asking
>> fundamentals.
>>
>> Are electric/manual trim/flap-controls mutually exclusive, or can you
>> have
> a
>> safe manual control that overrides a convenient electric?
>
> As someone said, they're mutually exclusive. For the flaps, both versions
> use
> the same attach point on the flap horn. For the trim, the cable goes all
> the
> way back to the horn on the manual version. On the electric version, the
> servo can sit in the elevator just in front of the horn or have a short
> section of
> cable attached to the horn that connects to the servo in the fuselage
> where
> the
> stabilizers are attached to the fuse.
>
> Then, the discusson got into the speeds of the electrics. Not much was
> said
> about the manual. I have a manual trim in my -6A that I've used for six
> years.
> I like it. I'm going to be installing the electric trim in my -7A only
> because it
> came with a deal I got on a tail kit from a good friend. I'm not sure
> I'll
> like it
> unless I put in the speed reducer. With a manual elevator trim, I can
> still
> set
> the trim if the battery power gets turned off. :-)
>
> As for the flaps, I really do like my electric flaps and bought the
> conversion when
> it was an option. I've read from those who like their manual flaps. The
> manual flap
> does have its advantages; but, it also takes up space between the seats
> that
> can be
> used for other things. If memory serves me, you get the electric flaps in
> the kits,
> now.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valves |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neal George" <neal@appaero.com>
Gentlemen -
Like many of you, I want an aircraft-quality fuel valve for my RV. I
bought an Andair FS20x3 from Vans and later learned that the valve and
fittings would be a very tight fit. I met with Andair's rep at
Sun'N'Fun and explained our dilemma - the major suppliers don't stock
the many variations; common fittings made the valves too big for the
space available; and banjo fittings are expensive, hard to find and add
unnecessary joints to the fuel system.
The result of that conversation is the Andair FS20x7t.
Details and (poor) pictures here: www.appaero.com/andair.htm
The first shipment arrived last week and I have a few left.
Current cost is $250 delivered.
I'll be happy to order more if there is enough interest.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (firewall clecoed)
RV-8 N998GM (canoe flipped)
Home - 334-262-8993
Cell - 334-546-2033
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | inside cowl prep |
--> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
I've previously read that others have covered the inside of their engine cowl with
resin and was curious if this meant epoxy resin without any hardener mixed
with it. I've also heard that MEK is good for cleaning the cowl before applying
the resin. Are there any other products that would be acceptable?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
Steve
RV7
N174AS
140 hrs
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: inside cowl prep |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Instead of using a solvent, you might consider a light scrubbing with
sandpaper, followed by a wipe down with a damp cloth.
Do not apply epoxy resin without hardener. It'll never harden and you'll
have a heck of a mess on your hands. If you're going to seal the inside of
the cowl, a squeegied on coat of properly mixed epoxy might be a good way to
seal most of the pinholes...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: inside cowl prep
> --> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
>
> I've previously read that others have covered the inside of their engine
> cowl with resin and was curious if this meant epoxy resin without any
> hardener mixed with it. I've also heard that MEK is good for cleaning the
> cowl before applying the resin. Are there any other products that would
> be acceptable?
>
> Thanks in advance for your replies.
>
> Steve
> RV7
> N174AS
> 140 hrs
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: inside cowl prep |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
nyman@bellsouth.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
>
>I've previously read that others have covered the inside of their engine cowl
with resin and was curious if this meant epoxy resin without any hardener mixed
with it.
>
I think that would be a real mess.
> I've also heard that MEK is good for cleaning the cowl before applying the resin.
>
MEK is a great degreaser/cleaner. It's also nasty to the body. Wear
your gloves and work in a well ventilated area.
> Are there any other products that would be acceptable?
>
Depending on what I'm cleaning and what I'm cleaning off, I use alcohol,
acetone, mineral spirits, or lacquer thinner.
>Thanks in advance for your replies.
>
No problem.
Linn
do not archive
>
>Steve
>RV7
>N174AS
>140 hrs
>
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: inside cowl prep |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Steve,
Epoxy resin with the hardener mixed in is what is being referred to. Acetone
will clean used with care will prep the surface quite well.
The result will be a sealed surface that should be easy to clean with your
choice of soapy cleanser or solvent.
Keep building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: inside cowl prep
> --> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
>
> I've previously read that others have covered the inside of their engine
> cowl with resin and was curious if this meant epoxy resin without any
> hardener mixed with it. I've also heard that MEK is good for cleaning the
> cowl before applying the resin. Are there any other products that would
> be acceptable?
>
> Thanks in advance for your replies.
>
> Steve
> RV7
> N174AS
> 140 hrs
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: inside cowl prep |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
linn walters wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
<snip>
>> I've also heard that MEK is good for cleaning the cowl before
>> applying the resin.
>>
>
> MEK is a great degreaser/cleaner. It's also nasty to the body. Wear
> your gloves and work in a well ventilated area.
<snip>
It is true that MEK is some really foul-smelling stuff that can make you
loopy if you breath the fumes. However, it seems the adverse health
effects of the solvent have been greatly exaggerated, probably due to
the potent aroma and the way it can quickly dry exposed skin.
Here is one summary of the (lack of) long-term health effects of MEK in
comparison to other solvents:
http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/mek/health_mek.html
I am not in any way advocating a casual attitude toward MEK or any other
solvent. They all should be handled carefully and any effort to avoid
skin contact is beneficial. But I have often seen written on this list
and others that we will grow an eye in our forehead and be unable to
produce offspring if we use MEK in our shop. These dire warnings don't
seem to be born out by the studies conducted so far with MEK. You can
still buy MEK by the gallon at Home Depot and Lowes.
MEK is a solvent that has been useful in my shop and has given me a
headache a couple of times when I didn't have adequate ventilation. But
I keep it in the shop for those times when I need a really aggressive
solvent and I don't consider it any more dangerous than many other solvents.
Sam Buchanan (RV-, uh....... I can't remember what kind of plane I
have......)
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Thermocouple wiring firewall pentrations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I have posted at least two discussions about thermocouple wire and how
it works - look at the archives.
That said, here is the short story. Thermocouples work due to the
Seebeck effect. That is, if you connect two wires made of dissimilar
metals they will generate a voltage at the junction that is proportional
to the temperature at the junction (and dependent on the types of
metals). It is important to remember that it is ANY junction of
dissimilar metals. This includes the junctions where the thermocouples
are connected to whatever you are using to measure the temperature. The
designers of these instruments always provide some way (internal to the
instrument) of compensating for the voltage generated at this junction
so the resultant temperature readout is that at the other end of the
thermocouple wires.
So... If we interpose another set of junctions in a length of
thermocouple wire - such as a connector - that could cause problems or
maybe not. I say could for two reasons.
First, if the temperature at each additional junction is the same then
the voltages generated will all cancel and you will still get the same
result on the readout instrument as you would without the additional
junctions. This is very likely the case if you pass the thermocouple
wires through a hole in the firewall (using the techniques that Bob
recommends for providing a fire resistant pass through) and use a
connector wholly within the engine compartment since both ends of the
connector will be in close proximity and at essentially the same
temperature. If you use a "barrier" connector with one side mounted on
the firewall and the other in the engine compartment, the situation is a
little worse since the two sides are obviously at different
temperatures. On the other hand if you use some sort of heat insulation
around one or both sides of the connector, since the pins are intimately
connected (both electrically and thermally), they are likely to be very
close in temperature and will cause a relatively small error.
Second, you are trying to measure relatively high temperatures and a
small temperature difference error generated by the connector may be
irrelevant to your actual usage. If you are using the EGT for leaning,
the actual temperature is only vaguely important - the relative peaks
are what you will look for. An error of 10 or 20 degrees would be
immaterial in this case. With the CHT the numbers are lower but the
errors are probably still not detrimental to your usage.
The reason Vision Microsystems suggest what they do is that they have no
control how or where you connect things and using the special pins
eliminates any problems - since they are the same material as the
thermocouple wire there is effectively no junction at the connector.
Bottom line: If you are careful in what you do, you can use any
connector you want with minimal if any errors. If you are not careful
and end up with the two sides of the connector at significantly
different temperatures you will get an error that is approximately the
difference between the temperatures on the two sides of the connector.
Dick Tasker
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow trons.....
>
>I'm getting started on my firewall forward wiring for my VM1000. I have four
EGT and CHT wiring sets that need to pass through the firewall on their journey
to the DPU.
>
>I would like to be able to disconnect them at the firewall with a canon-plug type
connector for ease of maintenance and firewall integrity reasons.
>
>A note to Vision Microsystems got me the response that it can be done but I need
to use special thermocouple extension grade pins due to an additional thermocouple
junction at the firewall.
>
>Please provide me with some education on this - my common sense tells me that
it is an electrical signal once it leaves the thermocouple and that electricity
is not affected by a firewall - unless maybe it is on fire.......there is a
connector at the DPU - wouldn't that connector cause the same problem?
>
>I do take stock in their response - but need to understand the mechanics/physics
etc.
>
>Maybe it is not worth the trouble to wire a disconnect at this point and I should
run the wiring direct from the thermocouple to the DPU.
>
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR N06 90% 90%
>
>
>
>
--
----
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
----
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I primed inside my cowl just like the outside and painted with silver
aluminum paint to reflect the heat. I also glued heavy aluminum foil inside
where
the exhaust stacks are near the cowl.
Makes it easy to clean and no burned paint inside or outside.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: inside cowl prep |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Maybe 'nasty' is too strong a word. I did read the Canadian OSHA link
(thank you!!!). No, it isn't fatal, and no (as far as they know) it
doesn't cause cancer. I think it can be absorbed through the skin, but
the only statement was that it caused irritation ..... I didn't want to
imply that it'd cause you to grow that third eye ..... just to be
careful. Like anything else, exposure to chemicals affects others
differently. I have no reaction to epoxy, but friends are super
sensitive. Just be careful
Linn
do not archive
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>linn walters wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>>
>>
><snip>
>
>
>>>I've also heard that MEK is good for cleaning the cowl before
>>>applying the resin.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>MEK is a great degreaser/cleaner. It's also nasty to the body. Wear
>> your gloves and work in a well ventilated area.
>>
>>
><snip>
>
>
>It is true that MEK is some really foul-smelling stuff that can make you
>loopy if you breath the fumes. However, it seems the adverse health
>effects of the solvent have been greatly exaggerated, probably due to
>the potent aroma and the way it can quickly dry exposed skin.
>
>Here is one summary of the (lack of) long-term health effects of MEK in
>comparison to other solvents:
>
>http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/mek/health_mek.html
>
>I am not in any way advocating a casual attitude toward MEK or any other
>solvent. They all should be handled carefully and any effort to avoid
>skin contact is beneficial. But I have often seen written on this list
>and others that we will grow an eye in our forehead and be unable to
>produce offspring if we use MEK in our shop. These dire warnings don't
>seem to be born out by the studies conducted so far with MEK. You can
>still buy MEK by the gallon at Home Depot and Lowes.
>
>MEK is a solvent that has been useful in my shop and has given me a
>headache a couple of times when I didn't have adequate ventilation. But
>I keep it in the shop for those times when I need a really aggressive
>solvent and I don't consider it any more dangerous than many other solvents.
>
>Sam Buchanan (RV-, uh....... I can't remember what kind of plane I
>have......)
>
>
>
>
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Start Button on Infinity Stick Grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Bowen <larry@bowenaero.com>
For many years while building, I was looking forward to wiring my stick
grip so that it had the starter on it and the 'disabled' switch on the
console, etc. It was going to be sooo cool...I couldn't wait! When it
came time to do it, I realized how much complexity, effort and how many
additional failure points I would be adding to something that could be
sooo simple. I ended up using a spring loaded, red flip guard switch on
the side console. Period, done. Nothing starter related on the stick.
I haven't missed it either. Just something else to consider.....
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>
> I did the exact same thing, right up through my flight test doing engine
> out glides where I "startled" (read heart attack) myself when I pushed
> the stick start button and nothing happened. Took be a few seconds to
> figure out I had to rearm the switch on the panel.
>
> I never used that da$#@$! panel switch again. I do not want to have to
> remember to rearm it during an emergency situation.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Brooks
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Start Button on Infinity Stick Grip
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
>
> We wired a switch on the panel to disable the stick starter button. The
> start button itself is at the top, far right of the right-hand grip so
> you
> have to reach up and cross over with your thumb to start. Not likely to
> hit
> it accidentally after engine start, but we added the stick-start disable
> item to our checklist after engine start. It makes wiring a bit more
> involved, but is a positive way to eliminate the possibility of
> accidental
> starter engagement after initial start. Photos upon request.
>
> Ken Brooks
> Roscoe, IL
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: inside cowl prep |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Disposable gloves are readily available even at my local grocery store.
I probably went through 300 while prepping my plane to paint and
also use it when setting my gopher traps.
Cheap insurance.
Ron Lee
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
I'm installing a Dynon EMS 10 (the engine management system) and I'm
replacing an E.I. ultimate analyzer. I pulled out the EI EGT probes and lo
and behold the new probes are smaller in diameter, naturally.
I've read in the archives of people drilling EGT holes in the wrong place,
and doing everything from re-welding the holes to just covering them up with
the hose clamp and I'm wondering how all that worked out. Also if anyone
has faced my dilemma, what have you done?
The new probe has a flange that completely covers the hole, and when
tightened down appears to seal fine, but I'm wondering if I should just weld
and re-drill them. The old probe certainly wasn't a press fit, and if it
didn't leak I don't see why the new one would either.
Thanks for any light you can shed on this.
Ed Bundy
Eagle, ID
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: EGT probe sizes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/26/2005 9:25:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
ebundy@speedyquick.net writes:
I'm installing a Dynon EMS 10 (the engine management system) and I'm
replacing an E.I. ultimate analyzer. I pulled out the EI EGT probes and lo
and behold the new probes are smaller in diameter, naturally.
I've read in the archives of people drilling EGT holes in the wrong place,
and doing everything from re-welding the holes to just covering them up with
the hose clamp and I'm wondering how all that worked out. Also if anyone
has faced my dilemma, what have you done?
The new probe has a flange that completely covers the hole, and when
tightened down appears to seal fine, but I'm wondering if I should just weld
and re-drill them. The old probe certainly wasn't a press fit, and if it
didn't leak I don't see why the new one would either.
===================================
Is there any way you could use a stainless pop rivet body as a hole size
reducer?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 767hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: EGT probe sizes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 21:23 2005-10-26, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
>
>I'm installing a Dynon EMS 10 (the engine management system) and I'm
>replacing an E.I. ultimate analyzer. I pulled out the EI EGT probes and lo
>and behold the new probes are smaller in diameter, naturally.
>
>I've read in the archives of people drilling EGT holes in the wrong place,
>and doing everything from re-welding the holes to just covering them up with
>the hose clamp and I'm wondering how all that worked out. Also if anyone
>has faced my dilemma, what have you done?
>
>The new probe has a flange that completely covers the hole, and when
>tightened down appears to seal fine, but I'm wondering if I should just weld
>and re-drill them. The old probe certainly wasn't a press fit, and if it
>didn't leak I don't see why the new one would either.
>
>Thanks for any light you can shed on this.
>
>Ed Bundy
>Eagle, ID
If the Dynon uses type K thermocouples, just use the existing EI
thermocouples and you will have the holes filled up. EI uses K
thermocouples. Yes, you'll probably have to change the connectors on
one of the sets of cables.
Alternately you can get away with using some high temp silicone (the
red stuff) around the base of the TC where it clamps against the
pipe. Check for exhaust leak evidence frequently for the first few hours.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
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