Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:10 AM - 2005 Matronics Email List Fund Raiser [Please Read]... (Matt Dralle)
2. 02:25 AM - Re: RV-7A in the daytona area ()
3. 04:42 AM - Installing the outboard bottom skin (Glen Matejcek)
4. 05:13 AM - Re: RV-7A in the daytona area (linn walters)
5. 06:22 AM - Re: Installing the outboard bottom skin. (Jamie Painter)
6. 06:41 AM - Re: Price Decrease -Lycoming Kit Engines (Rhonda Bewley)
7. 07:59 AM - When to Paint the Cockpit? (Dwight Frye)
8. 08:18 AM - Re: Price Decrease -Lycoming Kit Engines (Scott Bilinski)
9. 08:32 AM - Thoughts on Tool kits (Gerns25@netscape.net)
10. 08:32 AM - Re: Empennage Tips - Pictures? (Jeff Dowling)
11. 08:37 AM - Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? (Walter Tondu)
12. 08:51 AM - Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? (dsvs@comcast.net)
13. 08:54 AM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kits (dsvs@comcast.net)
14. 09:04 AM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Bob)
15. 09:09 AM - Re: Empennage Tips - Pictures? (Dan Checkoway)
16. 09:16 AM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kits (Denis Walsh)
17. 09:55 AM - Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
18. 10:07 AM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kits (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
19. 10:45 AM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Ed Holyoke)
20. 11:18 AM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kits (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 11:29 AM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Bob)
22. 11:53 AM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
23. 11:55 AM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Kelly McMullen)
24. 12:15 PM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Ed Holyoke)
25. 12:43 PM - Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? (Mickey Coggins)
26. 12:59 PM - 90% Inlet fitting on fuel inj (George Inman)
27. 01:25 PM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kits (Matt Johnson)
28. 01:27 PM - Best canopy scratch removal system (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
29. 02:46 PM - Question - Sennheiser HMEC300 (Bordelon, Greg)
30. 02:56 PM - Camlocs instead of hinges for the cowl? (Dean Pichon)
31. 03:18 PM - Re: Question - Sennheiser HMEC300 (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
32. 03:30 PM - Hartzell Hub Thru Bolt Torque (Don Kugler)
33. 04:03 PM - Question - Sennheiser HMEC300 (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
34. 04:21 PM - Re: Hartzell Hub Thru Bolt Torque (Kevin Horton)
35. 04:33 PM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kits (Bill Dube)
36. 06:11 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 10/31/05 (Glen Matejcek)
37. 06:23 PM - Re: hot cylinder cure (LarryRobertHelming)
38. 06:30 PM - Re: Question - Sennheiser HMEC300 (Dean Pichon)
39. 11:34 PM - Re: Best canopy scratch removal system (Jeff Point)
40. 11:35 PM - Re: Camlocs instead of hinges for the cowl? (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 2005 Matronics Email List Fund Raiser [Please Read]... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Matronics Email Listers,
Each year during the month of November, I hold a PBS-like fund raiser
to support the Email Lists sponsored here. As you have probably
noticed, there is no commercial advertising on any of the
List-related web pages or in any of the email distributions. The
Matronics Lists are supported completely though the generous
Contributions of its members.
Making a Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade
of the Matronics Aviation Lists is completely voluntary, but I
encourage you to consider making a donation that is equal to the
value and entertainment you have received from these Lists over the past year.
And thanks to a number of extremely generous members/businessmen
found on the Lists, there are some truly awesome Free Gifts to be had
during this year's List Fund Raiser! Andy Gold of the The Builder's
Bookstore, Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises, and Jon Croke of
Homebuilt HELP have all contributed products from their respective
catalogs in support of this year's Fund Raiser! Thank you!
Andy, Paul, and Jon are great guys and I really appreciate their
support for the Lists. I encourage each List member to visit their
respective web sites for a closer look at each of their great product
lines. Its guys like these that make this such a great hobby/sport
to be a part of! I have included links to each of their web sites below.
And just like PBS, I will be making pretty regular reminder requests
throughout the month of November. I ask for your kind consideration
and understanding during this time and realize that this Fund Raiser
is the *only* source of financing and support I have for these
Lists. I am continually upgrading and improving the hardware and
systems required in support of the Lists. This year saw a
substantial upgrade to all of the computer room infrastructure
including gigabit networking, dedicated air conditioning, an
equipment rack, and high-performance system chassis upgrades. Yes,
it was expensive, but I feel the Lists are worth it! Hopefully you do too!
All of these upgrades are what add up to the High-Performance,
Highly-Available system that everyone has come to expect of the Email
Lists at Matronics.
Please make a Contribution today to support these upgrades and the
continued operation of the Matronics Email Lists. The Contribution
web site is fast, easy, and secure to use. You can even select a
sweet Free Gift with a qualifying Contribution amount. The
Contribution Site can be found here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your generous support!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Sponsors of this Year's Matronics List Fund Raiser
Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - http://www.buildersbooks.com
Paul Besing - Aeroware Enterprises - http://www.kitlog.com
Jon Croke - Homebuilt HELP - http://www.homebuilthelp.com
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7A in the daytona area |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> >Hi Gordon!
> >I'm curious why you'd go from a 4-place to a 2 place. I'm going in the
> >other direction ..... giving up my AA-1B for an RV-10.
>
> Seems that he has seen the light of an RV. That should be good enough.
> No doubt an RV-10 is great for many people but I will stay with my -6A.
>
I made the move in 2000. I had a Grumman American Cheetah. After I
got my hours flown off in Scooter, I had to make the decision to let my
Cheetah go after flying it for over nine years. Even though my wife told me
I could keep both, I knew I couldn't. It was a real heartbreaker letting
the
Cheetah go; but, it went to a good home. The guy I sold it to had a two
place Grumman and wanted mine for a long time. Still, I find myself needing
a four place airplane, from time to time. If I could afford one, I'd build
a
RV-10; but, I know I can't afford to feed it, much less own it. With that,
I'm going to be a two place RVer, I guess. If I ever get tired of my -6A,
I'll buy a Tiger. It should keep up with Scooter. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 3
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| Subject: | Installing the outboard bottom skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Mike-
I don't believe you need to wait until the whole wing is riveted to put the
inboard row in. If you were to put the lap joint outboard row in, and a
half or so of the rivets in the LE and TE of that first bay, you should be
fine putting in the inboard row of rivets. I believe the whole point is to
make sure that there is no distortion of the lap joint area induced by
local flexing of the wing skin as a result of holding the bulk of the skin
out of the way.
When I did mine, I found that I could shoot the vast majority of the rivets
just fine all by myself. While working on the wings, I pulled my workbench
out into the middle of my shop, and wrapped the bench top in non-skid
padding. This padding is available as drawer liner (relatively expensive)
and as area rug non-skid underlayment (relatively cheap, and a couple
aisles down from the drawer liner). I used a nail in the overhead joisting
and some kite string to support the free end of the wing skin in an
appropriate position and went to town!
I would strongly recommend at least a long sleeved shirt, and preferably a
towel or more of the padding material through the appropriate lightening
hole. This will go a long ways towards protecting your arm. Likewise, a
double layered patch of the non-skid padding laying on the inner surface of
the upper wing skin, located where you are bucking, will help protect that
skin from the occasion when you are making that difficult reach and your
fingers cramp, you loose your grip, and drop the bucking bar onto the wing
skin below. You may wonder how I know this....
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7A in the daytona area |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Actually, Gordon and I are both Grumman drivers (if he'll pardon that
comment) and they're fantastic airplanes. But, as he pointed out,
they're cert'd, and that's the only down-side to them. They have
something that an RV can't have .... and that's the bonded
construction. An RV will suffer from loose rivets down the line, but a
Gruman never will. Now, that's not a slight on workmanship, that's just
one of those facts of life. It's also terribly hard for a Grumman owner
to part with his airplane. Far too many Gruman owners have had sellers
regret.
However, having said that, there aren't any cert'd aircraft flying today
that come near the price/performance benefits of an RV. In Gordon's
case, he's looking for the best replacement for his Grumman that's out
there. But I'm putting words in his mouth, and that's not nice. That's
why I asked HIM the question, albeit rather publicly.
Linn
Ron Lee wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
>>i Gordon!
>>I'm curious why you'd go from a 4-place to a 2 place. I'm going in the
>>other direction ..... giving up my AA-1B for an RV-10.
>>
>>
>
>Seems that he has seen the light of an RV. That should be good enough.
>No doubt an RV-10 is great for many people but I will stay with my -6A.
>
>Ron Lee
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Installing the outboard bottom skin. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jamie Painter <jamie@jpainter.org>
The manual states...
>...."Once the inboard skin is riveted, the outboard is installed the
>same way, beginning on the inboard rib and working toward the tip.
>Leave the inboard line of rivets that joins the two skins only (no
>rib) until last."
>
>
Mike:
Are you sure the text you quoted is not referring to the top skins?
- Jamie
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Price Decrease -Lycoming Kit Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@BPAENGINES.com>
Chuck:
The O-320-D1A comes with all new Lycoming parts, including roller
tappets/cam, new Lycoming fuel pump, new Slick magnetos and harness,
spark plugs, new lightweight Skytec starter and a Precision Airmotive
carburetor rebuilt to new parts limits, all fittings and fuel line
hoses, silicone rocker box covers, balanced rotating assembly, new
cylinders inspected and seats cut to ensure valve:seat geometry,
cylinders ported/flow matched, 1.5 dynomometer break in (with full power
run) and crating for $23,800.
The current freight quote from Yellow is $438.80 to the dock in Fresno,
which is the closest location to you. I am waiting to hear back from
them on a figure for door-to-door shipment. I have another service that
I use that is generally $100 or so less than Yellow. I am waiting to
hear back from them on shipment as well.
We can also bump up the compression a bit, although we're not very
comfortable going much above 9:1 in a carbureted engine. If you would
like any additional information or have any questions, please feel free
to contact us at (918) 835-1089 or visit our website at
www.barrettprecisionengines.com.
Best regards,
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck
Subject: Re: RV-List: Price Decrease -Lycoming Kit Engines
--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
Hi Rhonda,
What's the price on your O-320 D2A including s&h to 93210 (Coalinga,
Cal.) ? Thanks,
Chuck
Rhonda Bewley <Rhonda@bpaengines.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rhonda Bewley"
Barrett Precision Engines is proud to announce a price decrease in the
following experimental kit engines for the homebuilder, effective
11/01/05.
O-320-D1A - Variable Pitch
O-320-D2A - Fixed Pitch
O-360-A1A - Variable Pitch
O-360-A4M - Fixed Pitch
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
---------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | When to Paint the Cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
I want to solicit some opinions from the collective wisdom of the
list. I am closing in on completing all the various things needed
after the initial fitting of the wings (i.e. drilling the belly skin
to the inboard rib, fitting the wing root fairing, installing the
flap pushrod, etc., etc.). I put both wings on to do the setting of
the sweep/incidence and for drilling the rear spart attach bolt hole,
but then took one wing off so I could close my garage again. This
means I'm doing things in stages, and am leaving the installing of
the plumbing in the cockpit until after all the wing-specific work
is complete.
It _seems_ to me that this is the perfect time to paint the cockpit.
It is before any of the plumbing has been run, any wires are run, and
while I can easily push my rudder cables back out of the line of fire.
The rudder pedals are currently out, and I have not installed the FI
pump or the fuel selector in the center of the cockpit yet (though they
are all fitted/drilled and ready to install). In other words, all those
things that I don't want to get paint on are at the moment already out
of my way. To top it off, all the various panels that should be painted
independently are already off the plane as well. What am I missing that
will make me sorry I painted now rather than later?
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Price Decrease -Lycoming Kit Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>We can also bump up the compression a bit, although we're not very
>comfortable going much above 9:1 in a carbureted engine.
Very interesting. What is the reasoning behind this?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 9
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| Subject: | Thoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerns25@netscape.net
I am going to be purchasing a tool kit in the next couple of days. I have heard that the Avery is the best buy (or maybe the most commonly purchased kit). I have been looking at the kit put together by Planetools.com and am especially interested in the upgraded C-frame dimpler. Does anyone have experience with both kits or have any opinions on which one is the "best" buy. Comparing the tool lists, it looks like the Avery comes with a few more tools but it is $300+ more and doesn't offer the cool dimpler. Can someone who has built an RV take a look at the complete list of tools on www.planetools.com for me and tell me what they think from experience? Thanks for the help.
Darin
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Empennage Tips - Pictures? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
How did he cover the intersection of fiberglass to aluminum? I talked to
sun n funs winner this year and he used West systems tough filler, not the
brown, easy stuff. Its not very easy to sand.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bradley Oliver" <brad@rv7factory.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Tips - Pictures?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bradley Oliver" <brad@rv7factory.com>
>
> Just a follow-up to my prior post...
>
> In response to my post, Darwin Barrie was kind enough to email me some
> pictures of his empennage fiberglass work (which looks amazing). He asked
> me to share them with the group, and since several of you emailed me
> saying
> you were also interested in pictures, I posted them online.
>
> Darwin's work can be seen here... http://www.rv7factory.com/darwin.html
>
> Cheers,
> Brad
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brad Oliver
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Empennage Tips - Pictures?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Brad Oliver <brad@rv7factory.com>
>
> I am trying to decide how I want to finish my fiberglass emp tips (when
> I get around to doing so). In other words, do I want to glass and
> smooth the fiberglass to aluminum transition, or do I just want to
> rivet and be done with it.
>
> Anywhooo... I seem to remember someone out there going through the same
> debate, and having an online photo album of close-up pictures they took
> at Oshkosh of the different methods of installing the tips (e.g. rivets,
> glass n' smooth, screws). I thought I saved the link in my favorites,
> but apparently not, and I can't seem to locate the info (URL) in the
> archives.
>
> I am not looking to debate the merits of the different methods, I am
> just trying to locate the pictures... if someone knows what I am
> referring to and has the link, could you please send it to me? Thanks!
>
> Brad Oliver
> RV-7
> Livermore, CA
> www.rv7factory.com
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 11/01 10:59, Dwight Frye wrote:
> I want to solicit some opinions from the collective wisdom of the
> list. I am closing in on completing all the various things needed
> after the initial fitting of the wings (i.e. drilling the belly skin
> to the inboard rib, fitting the wing root fairing, installing the
> flap pushrod, etc., etc.). I put both wings on to do the setting of
> the sweep/incidence and for drilling the rear spart attach bolt hole,
> but then took one wing off so I could close my garage again. This
> means I'm doing things in stages, and am leaving the installing of
> the plumbing in the cockpit until after all the wing-specific work
> is complete.
>
> It _seems_ to me that this is the perfect time to paint the cockpit.
> It is before any of the plumbing has been run, any wires are run, and
> while I can easily push my rudder cables back out of the line of fire.
> The rudder pedals are currently out, and I have not installed the FI
> pump or the fuel selector in the center of the cockpit yet (though they
> are all fitted/drilled and ready to install). In other words, all those
> things that I don't want to get paint on are at the moment already out
> of my way. To top it off, all the various panels that should be painted
> independently are already off the plane as well. What am I missing that
> will make me sorry I painted now rather than later?
Paint Away!
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: dsvs@comcast.net
I painted the cockpit right before I put the wings on for the first time. Now
is a good time in my opinion.
Don
Do Not Archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
>
> I want to solicit some opinions from the collective wisdom of the
> list. I am closing in on completing all the various things needed
> after the initial fitting of the wings (i.e. drilling the belly skin
> to the inboard rib, fitting the wing root fairing, installing the
> flap pushrod, etc., etc.). I put both wings on to do the setting of
> the sweep/incidence and for drilling the rear spart attach bolt hole,
> but then took one wing off so I could close my garage again. This
> means I'm doing things in stages, and am leaving the installing of
> the plumbing in the cockpit until after all the wing-specific work
> is complete.
>
> It _seems_ to me that this is the perfect time to paint the cockpit.
> It is before any of the plumbing has been run, any wires are run, and
> while I can easily push my rudder cables back out of the line of fire.
> The rudder pedals are currently out, and I have not installed the FI
> pump or the fuel selector in the center of the cockpit yet (though they
> are all fitted/drilled and ready to install). In other words, all those
> things that I don't want to get paint on are at the moment already out
> of my way. To top it off, all the various panels that should be painted
> independently are already off the plane as well. What am I missing that
> will make me sorry I painted now rather than later?
>
> -- Dwight
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Thoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: dsvs@comcast.net
Either kit is fine. I have and use A DRDT1 dimpler, great product. However you
will find that the old style will come in handy for the seat backs and the baffels
for riveting purposes. Don
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerns25@netscape.net
>
> I am going to be purchasing a tool kit in the next couple of days. I have heard
> that the Avery is the best buy (or maybe the most commonly purchased kit). I
> have been looking at the kit put together by Planetools.com and am especially
> interested in the upgraded C-frame dimpler. Does anyone have experience with
> both kits or have any opinions on which one is the "best" buy. Comparing the
> tool lists, it looks like the Avery comes with a few more tools but it is $300+
> more and doesn't offer the cool dimpler. Can someone who has built an RV take
a
> look at the complete list of tools on www.planetools.com for me and tell me what
> they think from experience? Thanks for the help.
>
> Darin
>
> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register
>
> Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
> New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: hot cylinder cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in the
>wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face of
>the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough
>airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers.
>
>Vince
I tried this suggestion and it worked great! All CHTs are within 2
degrees. It took one washer on the number 3 cylinder.
Thanks Vince
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Empennage Tips - Pictures? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Fill the gap just to smooth it out, lay up one ply of 1oz "deck cloth",
feather fill.
http://www.rvproject.com/20031228.html
http://www.rvproject.com/20031230.html
http://www.rvproject.com/20031231.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Empennage Tips - Pictures?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
> How did he cover the intersection of fiberglass to aluminum? I talked to
> sun n funs winner this year and he used West systems tough filler, not the
> brown, easy stuff. Its not very easy to sand.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bradley Oliver" <brad@rv7factory.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage Tips - Pictures?
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bradley Oliver" <brad@rv7factory.com>
>>
>> Just a follow-up to my prior post...
>>
>> In response to my post, Darwin Barrie was kind enough to email me some
>> pictures of his empennage fiberglass work (which looks amazing). He
>> asked
>> me to share them with the group, and since several of you emailed me
>> saying
>> you were also interested in pictures, I posted them online.
>>
>> Darwin's work can be seen here... http://www.rv7factory.com/darwin.html
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Brad
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brad Oliver
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Empennage Tips - Pictures?
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Brad Oliver <brad@rv7factory.com>
>>
>> I am trying to decide how I want to finish my fiberglass emp tips (when
>> I get around to doing so). In other words, do I want to glass and
>> smooth the fiberglass to aluminum transition, or do I just want to
>> rivet and be done with it.
>>
>> Anywhooo... I seem to remember someone out there going through the same
>> debate, and having an online photo album of close-up pictures they took
>> at Oshkosh of the different methods of installing the tips (e.g. rivets,
>> glass n' smooth, screws). I thought I saved the link in my favorites,
>> but apparently not, and I can't seem to locate the info (URL) in the
>> archives.
>>
>> I am not looking to debate the merits of the different methods, I am
>> just trying to locate the pictures... if someone knows what I am
>> referring to and has the link, could you please send it to me? Thanks!
>>
>> Brad Oliver
>> RV-7
>> Livermore, CA
>> www.rv7factory.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Thoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
OK I looked at it. It is cool, but I am from Missouri. I would have
to see it to believe it. I believe Bob Avery is the one who invented
the C frame hammer slammer dimpler doo dad. They work great. My
experience over the years is that those with the better dimples are
the ones who slam the hardest. I am a little leery of the cool
model. It doesn't appear to have as much leverage as the hand
squeezers, to me. Hand squeezers definitely do not have enough slam
for good dimples in 032 or above.
Hopefully we will hear from someone who has tried it. If it has
enough leverage it would sure be nice to avoid the noise. You might
call Avery and ask him. He is a remarkably candid person and may have
an opinion of the comparison.
Both Avery and Cleaveland are companies that have grown with Van's
and are renouned for quality and service. You should find it very
easy to chat with the company founders, both RV builders and get
their opinions before you pull the trigger. I don't hear much from
George Orndorff any more . But if he is still on the list he would
also be a great source of comparative info.
NOTe all the above is highly opinionated. I am also somewhat
outdated, having not done a lot of building for the past 8 years.
BUT I have looked over a lot of dimples. Do not archive.
HEY it is time for all you (other) cheapskates to ante up for the
fund drive!!
Denis Walsh
On Nov 1, 2005, at 9:31 AM, Gerns25@netscape.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerns25@netscape.net
>
> I am going to be purchasing a tool kit in the next couple of days.
> I have heard that the Avery is the best buy (or maybe the most
> commonly purchased kit). I have been looking at the kit put
> together by Planetools.com and am especially interested in the
> upgraded C-frame dimpler. Does anyone have experience with both
> kits or have any opinions on which one is the "best" buy.
> Comparing the tool lists, it looks like the Avery comes with a few
> more tools but it is $300+ more and doesn't offer the cool
> dimpler. Can someone who has built an RV take a look at the
> complete list of tools on www.planetools.com for me and tell me
> what they think from experience? Thanks for the help.
>
> Darin
>
> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/
> register
>
> Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
> New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/1/05 10:02:47 AM Central Standard Time,
dwight@openweave.org writes:
> What am I missing that
> will make me sorry I painted now rather than later?
>>>
Cover stuff already painted with plastic, poster board, masking tape etc. -
just be sure to use the low-stick masking tape and test on newly painted
surfaces to make sure it won't pull the paint off when removed...
Mark
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Thoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/1/05 10:36:27 AM Central Standard Time,
Gerns25@netscape.net writes:
> Can someone who has built an RV take a look at the complete list of tools
> on www.planetools.com for me and tell me what they think from experience?
> Thanks for the help.
>>>>
The $2K set looks pretty darn complete, and quite a bargain (without
researching the whole shebang). Add an Avery swivel flush rivet set, lots of
different files, some long #40 & #30 drill bits, and you should pretty much have
all
you need- sure I missed some stuff, but the stuff I added above are essential,
IMHO!
Might also wanna look at:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/?q=tools
Mark
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | hot cylinder cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Bob,
How did you affix the washer. It wasn't clear to me looking at the pix.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Subject: Re: RV-List: hot cylinder cure
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in the
>wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face
of
>the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough
>airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers.
>
>Vince
I tried this suggestion and it worked great! All CHTs are within 2
degrees. It took one washer on the number 3 cylinder.
Thanks Vince
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 20
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| Subject: | Thoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Everyone I have ever talked to, including myself, that have used Paul's DRDT-2
dimpler would never give it up for the old hammer one, and yes I have used both.
This is NOT a hand squeezer and has enough leverage to seriously deform and
stretch the hole if you are not careful. Not to mention you can whip through
a part in no time. When you are in a groove on a line of holes you can easily
dimple a hole every 1-2 seconds.
Looking at the rest of the list though I would have probably got my set from
planetools if it was available when I purchased. The quality of the tools and
brand names is hard to beat for the price. Plane tools has been around for a
while selling mainly on eBay. I think I have even bought stuff from him before.
I did get my tools from Avery, primarily because he is local to me. Otherwise
it could have easily been Cleavland. Looking back the sales tax more than
offset the convenience of being local. I have bought tools from both of them,
and others, and have nothing but good things to say.
If you want more info on the DRDT-2 go to: http://www.experimentalaero.com/DRDT-2.htm
My $0.02
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuselage
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Denis Walsh
Subject: Re: RV-List: Thoughts on Tool kits
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
OK I looked at it. It is cool, but I am from Missouri. I would have to see it
to believe it. I believe Bob Avery is the one who invented the C frame hammer
slammer dimpler doo dad. They work great. My experience over the years is
that those with the better dimples are the ones who slam the hardest. I am a
little leery of the cool model. It doesn't appear to have as much leverage as
the hand squeezers, to me. Hand squeezers definitely do not have enough slam
for good dimples in 032 or above.
Hopefully we will hear from someone who has tried it. If it has enough leverage
it would sure be nice to avoid the noise. You might call Avery and ask him.
He is a remarkably candid person and may have an opinion of the comparison.
Both Avery and Cleaveland are companies that have grown with Van's and are renouned
for quality and service. You should find it very easy to chat with the company
founders, both RV builders and get their opinions before you pull the trigger.
I don't hear much from George Orndorff any more . But if he is still
on the list he would also be a great source of comparative info.
NOTe all the above is highly opinionated. I am also somewhat
outdated, having not done a lot of building for the past 8 years.
BUT I have looked over a lot of dimples. Do not archive.
HEY it is time for all you (other) cheapskates to ante up for the fund drive!!
Denis Walsh
On Nov 1, 2005, at 9:31 AM, Gerns25@netscape.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerns25@netscape.net
>
> I am going to be purchasing a tool kit in the next couple of days.
> I have heard that the Avery is the best buy (or maybe the most
> commonly purchased kit). I have been looking at the kit put together
> by Planetools.com and am especially interested in the upgraded C-frame
> dimpler. Does anyone have experience with both
> kits or have any opinions on which one is the "best" buy.
> Comparing the tool lists, it looks like the Avery comes with a few
> more tools but it is $300+ more and doesn't offer the cool dimpler.
> Can someone who has built an RV take a look at the complete list of
> tools on www.planetools.com for me and tell me what they think from
> experience? Thanks for the help.
>
> Darin
>
> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/
> register
>
> Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
> New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer Search from anywhere on
> the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | hot cylinder cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>How did you affix the washer. It wasn't clear to me looking at the pix.
>
>Pax,
>
>Ed Holyoke
>
> >Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in the
> >wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face
>of
> >the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough
> >airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers.
> >
> >Vince
>
>I tried this suggestion and it worked great! All CHTs are within 2
>degrees. It took one washer on the number 3 cylinder.
>
>Thanks Vince
>
>Bob
>RV6 NightFighter
Good question, it is pretty well near impossible to get a washer between
the baffle and the engine. I tried and tried. Solution, make a washer out
of 1/2 x 1/4 inch sheet aluminum, dill hole for bolt at the top of the
strip and then you have a nice fingerhold to put the spacer between the
baffle and engine.
Bottom line, I changed the washer to a spacer only because it was easier to
do, but not as elegant.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 22
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| Subject: | hot cylinder cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Are you guys talking about the side baffle plate that screws to the
cylinder?
Im confused.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Subject: RE: RV-List: hot cylinder cure
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>How did you affix the washer. It wasn't clear to me looking at the pix.
>
>Pax,
>
>Ed Holyoke
>
> >Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in
the
> >wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face
>of
> >the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough
> >airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers.
> >
> >Vince
>
>I tried this suggestion and it worked great! All CHTs are within 2
>degrees. It took one washer on the number 3 cylinder.
>
>Thanks Vince
>
>Bob
>RV6 NightFighter
Good question, it is pretty well near impossible to get a washer between
the baffle and the engine. I tried and tried. Solution, make a washer
out
of 1/2 x 1/4 inch sheet aluminum, dill hole for bolt at the top of the
strip and then you have a nice fingerhold to put the spacer between the
baffle and engine.
Bottom line, I changed the washer to a spacer only because it was easier
to
do, but not as elegant.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 23
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| Subject: | hot cylinder cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
The easy way to get a spacer is to use the silicone baffle seal material,
cut small strips and use a dab of high temp RTV to glue it in place.
Usually takes 2 thicknesses of the silicone baffle seal.
Bob said:
> Good question, it is pretty well near impossible to get a washer between
> the baffle and the engine. I tried and tried. Solution, make a washer
> out
> of 1/2 x 1/4 inch sheet aluminum, dill hole for bolt at the top of the
> strip and then you have a nice fingerhold to put the spacer between the
> baffle and engine.
>
> Bottom line, I changed the washer to a spacer only because it was easier
> to
> do, but not as elegant.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
Message 24
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| Subject: | hot cylinder cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Bob,
It looks, in the pix, that the washer/spacer is to be inserted between
the fins and the baffle. Is there a bolt hole there? I'm perplexed.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Subject: RE: RV-List: hot cylinder cure
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>How did you affix the washer. It wasn't clear to me looking at the pix.
>
>Pax,
>
>Ed Holyoke
>
> >Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in
the
> >wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face
>of
> >the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough
> >airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers.
> >
> >Vince
>
>I tried this suggestion and it worked great! All CHTs are within 2
>degrees. It took one washer on the number 3 cylinder.
>
>Thanks Vince
>
>Bob
>RV6 NightFighter
Good question, it is pretty well near impossible to get a washer between
the baffle and the engine. I tried and tried. Solution, make a washer
out
of 1/2 x 1/4 inch sheet aluminum, dill hole for bolt at the top of the
strip and then you have a nice fingerhold to put the spacer between the
baffle and engine.
Bottom line, I changed the washer to a spacer only because it was easier
to
do, but not as elegant.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> ...
> It _seems_ to me that this is the perfect time to paint the cockpit.
> ...
I agree. This is when I had mine painted, and it has worked out
well.
I strongly recommend you take a lot of time to get the dirt/dust
out of the cockpit area before you start to spray. I might even
turn the "canoe" upside down and wash it out with a garden hose.
I didn't clean well, and found tons of stuff in the corners that
blew everywhere.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | 90% Inlet fitting on fuel inj |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
I have a precision airmotive
fuel inj. on a RV8 with O360 engine.
and Van's exhaust which crossovers in the back
I need a 90 degree inlet fitting for the servo
to prevent the fuel line coming too close
to the exhaust.
Does anyone supply one?
George Inman
Home 204 287 8334
Cell 204 799 7062
Message 27
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| Subject: | Thoughts on Tool kits |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I have the DPDT-2 and would not go back to the slam type dimpler. I bought my set
from ATS and ended up regretting it. A lot of the
tools were just horrible and I have eaten the cost to replace them. The worst tool
in the ATS set was the hand squeezer. The squeezer
in the set at planetools is the good one. I cannot comment on the dimple dies because
they are too small to see if they are the good
ones or not. The bucking bars look good. I think you will use that small "C" shaped
one the most. The back riveter in the set is not the
best, I had one just like it and it broke. The only other thing is the flush head
does not have a rubber sourrounding which is not bad, but
it sure is nice to have one with a rubber boot (not even sure if they offer those
in a set).
That is my 2 cents. Good luck.
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Thoughts on Tool kits
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Everyone I have ever talked to, including myself, that have used
> Paul's DRDT-2 dimpler would never give it up for the old hammer one,
> and yes I have used both. This is NOT a hand squeezer and has enough
> leverage to seriously deform and stretch the hole if you are not
> careful. Not to mention you can whip through a part in no time. When
> you are in a groove on a line of holes you can easily dimple a hole
> every 1-2 seconds.
>
> Looking at the rest of the list though I would have probably got my
> set from planetools if it was available when I purchased. The quality
> of the tools and brand names is hard to beat for the price. Plane
> tools has been around for a while selling mainly on eBay. I think I
> have even bought stuff from him before. I did get my tools from Avery,
> primarily because he is local to me. Otherwise it could have easily
> been Cleavland. Looking back the sales tax more than offset the
> convenience of being local. I have bought tools from both of them, and
> others, and have nothing but good things to say.
>
> If you want more info on the DRDT-2 go to:
> http://www.experimentalaero.com/DRDT-2.htm
>
> My $0.02
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Waiting on fuselage
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Denis Walsh
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Thoughts on Tool kits
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> OK I looked at it. It is cool, but I am from Missouri. I would have
> to see it to believe it. I believe Bob Avery is the one who invented
> the C frame hammer slammer dimpler doo dad. They work great. My
> experience over the years is that those with the better dimples are the
> ones who slam the hardest. I am a little leery of the cool model. It
> doesn't appear to have as much leverage as the hand squeezers, to me.
> Hand squeezers definitely do not have enough slam for good dimples in
> 032 or above.
>
> Hopefully we will hear from someone who has tried it. If it has enough
> leverage it would sure be nice to avoid the noise. You might call
> Avery and ask him. He is a remarkably candid person and may have an
> opinion of the comparison.
>
> Both Avery and Cleaveland are companies that have grown with Van's and
> are renouned for quality and service. You should find it very easy to
> chat with the company founders, both RV builders and get their opinions
> before you pull the trigger. I don't hear much from George Orndorff
> any more . But if he is still on the list he would also be a great
> source of comparative info.
>
> NOTe all the above is highly opinionated. I am also somewhat
> outdated, having not done a lot of building for the past 8 years.
> BUT I have looked over a lot of dimples. Do not archive.
>
> HEY it is time for all you (other) cheapskates to ante up for the fund
> drive!!
> Denis Walsh
>
> On Nov 1, 2005, at 9:31 AM, Gerns25@netscape.net wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerns25@netscape.net
> >
> > I am going to be purchasing a tool kit in the next couple of days.
> > I have heard that the Avery is the best buy (or maybe the most
> > commonly purchased kit). I have been looking at the kit put together
> > by Planetools.com and am especially interested in the upgraded
> C-frame
> > dimpler. Does anyone have experience with both
> > kits or have any opinions on which one is the "best" buy.
> > Comparing the tool lists, it looks like the Avery comes with a few
> > more tools but it is $300+ more and doesn't offer the cool dimpler.
> > Can someone who has built an RV take a look at the complete list of
> > tools on www.planetools.com for me and tell me what they think from
> > experience? Thanks for the help.
> >
> > Darin
> >
> > Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> > As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/
> > register
> >
> > Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
> >
> > New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer Search from anywhere on
> > the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> > Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Best canopy scratch removal system |
1.53 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Confess, who's recently tried different canopy scratch removal systems and found
one they recommend the most?
thx,
lucky
Confess, who's recently tried different canopy scratch removal systems and found
one they recommend the most?
thx,
lucky
Message 29
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| Subject: | Question - Sennheiser HMEC300 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
Anyone have an negative comments about the Sennheiser HMEC300 ANR
headsets or getting them serviced? Feel free to reply off list.
Thank - Greg
Message 30
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| Subject: | Camlocs instead of hinges for the cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Hi All,
With 300+ hours on my -4, I have broken a number of hinge eyelets and expect
to find more as I accumulate more hours. I have found in the archives
several references to "upgrading" to Camlocs such as are available from
Skybolt. I have two questions:
For those using Camlocs, how has this solution stood up to vibration, wear
and tear, etc?
For those who have installed Camlocs on a -4, did the curvature of the cowl
in the area of the cheeks cause any problems with installation of the plate
used to carry the Camloc receptacles?
Thanks in advance.
Dean Pichon
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Question - Sennheiser HMEC300 |
--> RV-List message posted by:
On Tuesday 01 November 2005 23.44, Bordelon, Greg wrote:
> Anyone have an negative comments about the Sennheiser HMEC300 ANR
> headsets or getting them serviced? Feel free to reply off list.
I use a set, and like it very much, especially when flying the very noisy
Skybolt. It's good to change the foam earpads for gel-pads. If I should say
one negative thing, it's that the battery pack is heavy, and it seems to
consume more power than expected. I drain a set of NiMH batteries in
something like 4 hours.
_
/Bjorn.
Message 32
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| Subject: | Hartzell Hub Thru Bolt Torque |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Kugler" <donkugler@earthlink.net>
Anyone out there know what torque Hartzell calls out for the bolts that hold
the hub halves together, including the one ones that secure the backing
plate? I'm referencing the C2YK compact hub like most of us use on our RVs?
Thanks in advance,
-Don
RV-8 NJ
Don Kugler
donkugler@earthlink.net
Message 33
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| Subject: | Question - Sennheiser HMEC300 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Sennheisers are good headsets. As good as Bose but about half the price.
But, even still, our business has never done very well with pilots supplies
so I am closing out our remaining headsets.
I've got 2 in-the-box Sennheiser HMEC25-KAS headsets (their top of the
line)
for $520 each. That's dealer cost. Call if you want them.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Hub Thru Bolt Torque |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 1 Nov 2005, at 18:31, Don Kugler wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Don Kugler" <donkugler@earthlink.net>
>
> Anyone out there know what torque Hartzell calls out for the bolts
> that hold
> the hub halves together, including the one ones that secure the
> backing
> plate? I'm referencing the C2YK compact hub like most of us use on
> our RVs?
Don,
Table 301 on page 307 of my Hartzell Prop Owner's Manual (page at
revision 6, Sep/00) says 20-22 ft-lbs for the hub clamping bolts/
spinner mtg. buts. The diagrams shows those as the four bolts most
outboard, right where the blade comes out of the hub.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Thoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <william.p.dube@noaa.gov>
Gerns25@netscape.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gerns25@netscape.net
>
>I am going to be purchasing a tool kit in the next couple of days.
>
>
I bought nearly all my tools on Ebay. I probably spent as much money
as I would have on a new tool kit, but I have a LOT of tools and I had
fun hunting bargains. Indeed, it takes some skill and you must be
patient to get the best deals on Ebay. Once you get the hang of it, you
can get some amazing deals.
The very few brand new tools I bought on Ebay were probably the worst
bargains. A lot of the brand new tools listed on Ebay are pretty crappy.
You must be very careful buying new tools on Ebay.
The real deals are on high quality name brand used tools. I like to
buy used aircraft tools from ToolsEZ the best.
Some choice buys on Ebay include: A CP-214 pneumatic squeezer (C
style) for $69. A Rockwell 90 degree 1/4-28 air drill for $39. A CP-351
alligator squeezer with 9" deep jaws for $120.
I bought 4 Semco sealant guns with a 2 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft box filled
with tubes, nozzles, spatulas, etc. for $60. (A sealant gun makes
Pro-Seal much more bearable, almost fun.)
The above tools would have cost me over $3000 new, but I paid just
$228 for them.
A few other gems from Ebay:
350 amp inverter TIG welder for $985
VOR/ILS with marker beacons - indicator, receiver, and connection
cable for just $28.
Hobbs meter for $2.52.
Bill Dube'
Message 36
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| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 10/31/05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hey all-
I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm
concerned about having the tint for night flight. For those who have 'been
there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations?
Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all
significant in the real world? Would you do it again?
Thanks in advance-
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: hot cylinder cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: hot cylinder cure
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> It looks, in the pix, that the washer/spacer is to be inserted between
> the fins and the baffle. Is there a bolt hole there? I'm perplexed.
((((((((((((Yes, there is a hole there that is made to hold a bolt that
holds the baffle on the back of the cyl. You remove the bolt, insert a
screw driver or something so a washer can be slipped in and then reinstall
the bolt. It worked for me behind the #3 cylinder on my O-360. Some use
two washers. One worked well enough for me.
Indiana Larry)))))))))))))
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: hot cylinder cure
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
>
>>How did you affix the washer. It wasn't clear to me looking at the pix.
>>
>>Pax,
>>
>>Ed Holyoke
>>
>> >Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in
> the
>> >wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face
>>of
>> >the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough
>> >airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers.
>> >
>> >Vince
>>
>>I tried this suggestion and it worked great! All CHTs are within 2
>>degrees. It took one washer on the number 3 cylinder.
>>
>>Thanks Vince
>>
>>Bob
>>RV6 NightFighter
>
>
> Good question, it is pretty well near impossible to get a washer between
>
> the baffle and the engine. I tried and tried. Solution, make a washer
> out
> of 1/2 x 1/4 inch sheet aluminum, dill hole for bolt at the top of the
> strip and then you have a nice fingerhold to put the spacer between the
> baffle and engine.
>
> Bottom line, I changed the washer to a spacer only because it was easier
> to
> do, but not as elegant.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Question - Sennheiser HMEC300 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
I have two sets in my -4. They are wired into the ship's electrical system
so no batteries to fuss with. Both work well, especially after I adjusted
the mic gains independently for each headset. In a tandem aircraft the
voice activated mics need to go hot at different ambient noise levels. I
have not had need to get them serviced, but have received excellent
technical help from the Connecticut facility (Sennheiser USA). My only
complaint is that the foam mic covers fall off easily.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
Subject: RV-List: Question - Sennheiser HMEC300
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
Anyone have an negative comments about the Sennheiser HMEC300 ANR
headsets or getting them serviced? Feel free to reply off list.
Thank - Greg
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Best canopy scratch removal system |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Scratch -off is by far the best. Van's had a write-up on it in the
RVator last year and they liked it too, so much they started carrying
it. It uses different grades of abrasive pastes, and foam pads chucked
up in a drill. Much better than sandpaper and elbow grease ala Micro-mesh.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1130916615-200-759&browse=airframe&product=scratch-off
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Camlocs instead of hinges for the cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
My Camlocks have held up very well on my -6 cowl, and I highly recommend
them. Can't answer as to the cowl cheeks, but it doesn't look like it
should be a problem.
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/camlocks.htm
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
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