Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:01 AM - Orndorff Construction Videos For Sale (William Scaringe)
2. 04:25 AM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Bob)
3. 04:27 AM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Bob)
4. 05:44 AM - Wing Tip Comm Antennas (bob rundle)
5. 06:59 AM - Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? (Richard Seiders)
6. 07:02 AM - Brake Reservoir (bob rundle)
7. 07:11 AM - Re: Hartzell Hub Thru Bolt Torque (Richard Seiders)
8. 07:54 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Ralph Howey)
9. 07:54 AM - Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? (Dwight Frye)
10. 07:56 AM - In search of: custom cargo net (Dan Checkoway)
11. 07:56 AM - Re: Camlocs instead of hinges for the cowl? (Doug Weiler)
12. 08:00 AM - Re: Wing Tip Comm Antennas (Ed Holyoke)
13. 08:49 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Jeff Point)
14. 09:27 AM - Re:Thoughts on Tool kits (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
15. 10:16 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Ed Holyoke)
16. 11:45 AM - OIL COOLER FITTINGS (Bruno)
17. 12:21 PM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (Fiveonepw@AOL.COM)
18. 01:55 PM - Advertisement - Sioux Mini Palm Drill / Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer SALE (BrownTool@AOL.COM)
19. 02:36 PM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kitsThoughts on Tool kits (JohnR)
20. 02:42 PM - rudder balance (Paul Rice)
21. 02:50 PM - Electric vrs. manual trim (Trevor)
22. 03:29 PM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Jeff Point)
23. 03:47 PM - Re: rudder balance (Kyle Boatright)
24. 04:30 PM - Re: rudder balance (Kevin Horton)
25. 05:43 PM - Hanger space needed a SNA (Bud Newhall)
26. 05:52 PM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (Larry Bowen)
27. 06:50 PM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (James Freeman)
28. 07:46 PM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (Pat Hatch)
29. 08:03 PM - Re: rudder balance (Jeff Dowling)
30. 08:13 PM - Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? (Douglas A. Fischer)
31. 09:22 PM - hot cylinder #2 (dave)
32. 10:12 PM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kits (b.e.isham)
33. 11:32 PM - telephone number? (Larry Rhea)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Orndorff Construction Videos For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: William Scaringe <bscaringe@sbcglobal.net>
I am selling some Orndorff Construction Videos on eBay (link below). These are
VHS format in excellent condition:
Sheet Metal Tools (1 VHS Tape): An introduction to the tools needed to build an
aluminum airplane. Tools are explained and then used to demonstrate the construction
of a sample control surface. (60 minutes)
RV Prepunched Empennage (2 VHS Tapes): Step by step construction of the complete
RV6/6A, RV7/7A and RV8/8A empennage with prepunched skins. (3 hours)
Search for eBay item# 8011498890 or use the link below:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8011498890
Message 2
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| Subject: | hot cylinder cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
>
>Are you guys talking about the side baffle plate that screws to the
>cylinder?
It looks, in the pix, that the washer/spacer is to be inserted between
the fins and the baffle. Is there a bolt hole there? I'm perplexed
I am talking about the back baffle behind the number 3 cylinder. There is
a bolt hole back there that allows one to attach the back baffle to the
engine cylinder. If the back baffle is too tight, then not enough cooling
air will flow down through the cylinder fins.
Dan Checkoway has a real neat picture on his website about this. This is
his idea, I just tried it and it worked for me.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: hot cylinder cure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
I must make a correction to my previous email. The picture is not on Dan
Checkoway's web site but it is on Vince's, see URL below. His web site
explains the procedure very well.
Bob
RV6 Nightfighter
>This has been discussed before... but now there's a photo and some text
>to make it easier to understand.
>http://vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm
>
>Vince
Message 4
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| Subject: | Wing Tip Comm Antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
I'm installing the Bob Archer Comm antenna in wing tip of RV7A. I have
searched the archives but remain with a couple questions:
1. I also have a marker beacon antenna in this wing tip. Will these antennas
interfere with each other?
2. The instructions for the comm antenna indicate the position as vertically
in the top of the vertical stab. Do RV guys typically install these antenna
horizontally in the wing tip or try and make the antenna at least partically
vertical by installing it on the very outside of the wingtip?
This is my second comm so I'd not as concerned about great reception.
Thanks
BobR
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
Dwight, I painted my interior as soon as fuse was completed and before
anything went in. Never had a regret.
Dick rv6a comp. 2002
At 10:59 AM 11/1/2005, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
>
>I want to solicit some opinions from the collective wisdom of the
>list. I am closing in on completing all the various things needed
>after the initial fitting of the wings (i.e. drilling the belly skin
>to the inboard rib, fitting the wing root fairing, installing the
>flap pushrod, etc., etc.). I put both wings on to do the setting of
>the sweep/incidence and for drilling the rear spart attach bolt hole,
>but then took one wing off so I could close my garage again. This
>means I'm doing things in stages, and am leaving the installing of
>the plumbing in the cockpit until after all the wing-specific work
>is complete.
>
>It _seems_ to me that this is the perfect time to paint the cockpit.
>It is before any of the plumbing has been run, any wires are run, and
>while I can easily push my rudder cables back out of the line of fire.
>The rudder pedals are currently out, and I have not installed the FI
>pump or the fuel selector in the center of the cockpit yet (though they
>are all fitted/drilled and ready to install). In other words, all those
>things that I don't want to get paint on are at the moment already out
>of my way. To top it off, all the various panels that should be painted
>independently are already off the plane as well. What am I missing that
>will make me sorry I painted now rather than later?
>
> -- Dwight
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
I have seen some builders use small brake reservoirs attached directly to
the master cylinders.
Links:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8//Pictures/Mvc-565x.jpg
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/reservoirs.php
Question:
The reservoir is no longer the high point in the brake system. How well
will these work? When bleeding the system, the high part of the black brake
lines may not be full of brake fluid. Anyone have practicle experience doing
this? I'd love to eliminate all those leaking plastic lines like I had in my
last aircraft.
BobR
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Hub Thru Bolt Torque |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
check prop manual it's in there. Think it's 22 ft lbs.
Dick
At 06:31 PM 11/1/2005, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Kugler" <donkugler@earthlink.net>
>
>Anyone out there know what torque Hartzell calls out for the bolts that hold
>the hub halves together, including the one ones that secure the backing
>plate? I'm referencing the C2YK compact hub like most of us use on our RVs?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>-Don
>RV-8 NJ
>
>Don Kugler
>donkugler@earthlink.net
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph Howey" <rdhowey@telus.net>
I'm considering these as well and was wondering about installing a park
brake
do not archive
Ralph RV8 QB
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Brake Reservoir
> --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
>
> I have seen some builders use small brake reservoirs attached directly to
> the master cylinders.
>
> Links:
> http://www.romeolima.com/RV8//Pictures/Mvc-565x.jpg
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/reservoirs.php
>
> Question:
> The reservoir is no longer the high point in the brake system. How well
> will these work? When bleeding the system, the high part of the black
> brake
> lines may not be full of brake fluid. Anyone have practicle experience
> doing
> this? I'd love to eliminate all those leaking plastic lines like I had in
> my
> last aircraft.
>
> BobR
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
This seems to be everyone's opinion .. and I'm convinced. :) Now I need
to see if anyone has a Hobbyair system, in good condition, laying around
that they want to get rid of. I think they are WAY too expensive. But what
do I know?
I've seen suggestions for using shop-vacs and garden hoses and am quite
tempted ... but ... I confess to worrying about the ad hoc nature of the
lashup and what strange chemicals from out-gassing of the plastic I might
be force-breathing. Sooooo ... I think a Hobbyair is the way to go, for me.
If nobody else has one on the shelf for sale cheap, then in a short while
*I* might have one for sale cheap, myself. :)
Thanks for everyone's input. 'Tis appreciated.
-- Dwight ( do not archive )
On Wed Nov 2 09:58:12 2005, Richard Seiders wrote :
>Dwight, I painted my interior as soon as fuse was completed and before
>anything went in. Never had a regret.
>Dick rv6a comp. 2002
Message 10
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| Subject: | In search of: custom cargo net |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm looking for elastic mesh cargo netting, preferably in a CUSTOM size.
Something like this:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/elastic_net.jpg
but customized to my preferred dimensions. Anybody know where to get this
stuff? How to make it yourself?
I basically want to make elastic pouches that go in front of the spar on my
RV-7. Ideally the sides and bottom will be fixed with velcro, but the top
"opening" will be elastic. Something like that...
Any ideas?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Camlocs instead of hinges for the cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
On 11/1/05 4:56 PM, "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> With 300+ hours on my -4, I have broken a number of hinge eyelets and expect
> to find more as I accumulate more hours. I have found in the archives
> several references to "upgrading" to Camlocs such as are available from
> Skybolt. I have two questions:
>
> For those using Camlocs, how has this solution stood up to vibration, wear
> and tear, etc?
>
> For those who have installed Camlocs on a -4, did the curvature of the cowl
> in the area of the cheeks cause any problems with installation of the plate
> used to carry the Camloc receptacles?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
Dean:
I have Camlocs installed on my RV-4. They are the "small" ones and look
very nice. 250 hours so far and no issues whatsoever. The only downside is
the use of Camlocs on the upper cowl/firewall junction directing in front of
the canopy. The curvature here is rather steep and results in some shallow
"scalloping" but not too bad. I'd be glad to send you some photos of how I
did it. Just let me know.
Doug Weiler
N722DW, RV-4
Message 12
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| Subject: | Wing Tip Comm Antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Bob,
1. The marker beacon goes in the other wingtip with the nav antenna
(if installed). Call Bob Archer for advice.
2. Get as much vertical orientation as you can. I posted some pix
of my installation here:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bicyclop@pacbell.net.09.03.2005/
Not flying yet so I can't say how well it'll work.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob rundle
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Comm Antennas
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
I'm installing the Bob Archer Comm antenna in wing tip of RV7A. I have
searched the archives but remain with a couple questions:
1. I also have a marker beacon antenna in this wing tip. Will these
antennas
interfere with each other?
2. The instructions for the comm antenna indicate the position as
vertically
in the top of the vertical stab. Do RV guys typically install these
antenna
horizontally in the wing tip or try and make the antenna at least
partically
vertical by installing it on the very outside of the wingtip?
This is my second comm so I'd not as concerned about great reception.
Thanks
BobR
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I have these reservoirs on the pilot side master cylinders (no brakes on
pax side) and they work great. No problems bleeding the brakes (from
the bottom up) and no air seems to be trapped in the system. I recently
noticed a very slight "spongieness" on the left side, and re-bled this
side, which restored the brake feel. This was after 1 1/2 years and 250
hours.
As for the parking brake, I have a Matco parking brake installed in the
system. The installation is no different than if you were using the
Vans brake reservoir. It also works great, but I have never had to use
it! I'm thinking of yanking the whole thing out.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re:Thoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Bill...
So YOU'RE the guy who has been outbidding me on all this stuff... I was
wondering who the spendthrift was...
Sorry... :)
Do not archive...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
The real deals are on high quality name brand used tools. I like to
buy used aircraft tools from ToolsEZ the best.
Some choice buys on Ebay include: A CP-214 pneumatic squeezer (C
style) for $69. A Rockwell 90 degree 1/4-28 air drill for $39. A CP-351
alligator squeezer with 9" deep jaws for $120.
I bought 4 Semco sealant guns with a 2 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft box filled
with tubes, nozzles, spatulas, etc. for $60. (A sealant gun makes
Pro-Seal much more bearable, almost fun.)
The above tools would have cost me over $3000 new, but I paid just
$228 for them.
A few other gems from Ebay:
350 amp inverter TIG welder for $985
VOR/ILS with marker beacons - indicator, receiver, and connection
cable for just $28.
Hobbs meter for $2.52.
Bill Dube'
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Jeff,
The reservoirs are about 1 1/4" in diameter, right? Did you have any
trouble with them clearing each other as the pedals pass?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Point
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I have these reservoirs on the pilot side master cylinders (no brakes on
pax side) and they work great. No problems bleeding the brakes (from
the bottom up) and no air seems to be trapped in the system. I recently
noticed a very slight "spongieness" on the left side, and re-bled this
side, which restored the brake feel. This was after 1 1/2 years and 250
hours.
As for the parking brake, I have a Matco parking brake installed in the
system. The installation is no different than if you were using the
Vans brake reservoir. It also works great, but I have never had to use
it! I'm thinking of yanking the whole thing out.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | OIL COOLER FITTINGS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Hello All
I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is running too cold
"120') and I was wondering if anyone would know the size of AN fittings
required for a Steward Warner Oil Cooler so I can install these blue caps (
can't remember how they're called )? This will save me a trip to the hangar
(about 40 miles return.)
I tried blocking the airflow thru the cooler with a back plate and even
tough it help a little bit, it's still not enough. I have continual foaming
in the filler neck telling me the engine is not burning the excess
humidity/water in the oil and it will eventually hurt the engine.
If anyone has a better idea, I'm open to suggestions.
The engine is a 0-320 E2D (160 HP)
Thank you for your time
You may respond off list if you wish
Bruno Dionne
RV-4 C-GDBH
Rv4@videotron.ca
-------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/2/05 1:50:02 PM Central Standard Time, rv4@videotron.ca
writes:
> .)
>
>
> I tried blocking the airflow thru the cooler with a back plate and even
> tough it help a little bit, it's still not enough.
>>>
Bruno- before you start disconnecting stuff, it sounds like you blocked the
REAR of the cooler- you might want to try blocking the FRONT of the cooler-
Many builders over the years have complained of little improvement by trying to
block the airflow THROUGH the cooler from the rear. I suspect there is a lot
of air circulation around the fins/tubes in flight that is still removing quite
a bit of heat from them. A butterfly valve on my stock E3D blocks the front
and it works well to raise temps.
See: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5001
The butterfly closes off the airflow very well, but I'd suspect a simple
plate covering the INLET face of the cooler would achieve the same thing. Might
be worth a try...
Mark
Message 18
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| Subject: | Advertisement - Sioux Mini Palm Drill / Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer |
SALE
--> RV-List message posted by: BrownTool@aol.com
This is an Advertisement / Tool SALE Announcement - it will only be posted
one time.
To all RVers:
Our Year End Specials promotion is in full swing and we are announcing it
here first, before we mail our sale flyers late this week.
We are the largest aerospace distributor of Sioux Tools in the world and all
of these products are in stock and ready for immediate shipment. While
supplies last, we are including a free Sioux Baseball Cap with any Sioux Tool
Purchase.
Sioux 1410 Mini Palm Drill (USA Made) - $179.95 Sale Price!
Sioux 1412 Mini Palm Drill (USA Made) - $184.95 Sale Price
Sioux 1412R Reversible Palm Drill (USA Made) - $214.95 Sale Price!
Sioux 2X or 3X Rivet Gun (USA Made) $219.95 Sale Price!
Sioux 90 Deg. Threaded Drill - (USA Made) $329.95 Sale Price!
Sioux 1450ES Standard Drill (USA Made) $139.95 Sale Price!
Cleco Pliers with comfort grips! $4.95 Sale Price
And we are announcing our LOWEST PRICE EVER on brand new, American Made,
first quality Pneumatic Rivet Squeezers with our C-Rex Yokes (C-Rex Yokes are
pre-drilled and tapped, permitting them to easily be bench mounted!)
BAT-CS214-NY Squeezer Only - No Yoke - $420.95
BAT-CS214-25 Squeezer with 2-1/2" C-Rex Yoke - $479.95
BAT-CS214-30 Squeezer with 3" yoke - $489.95
BAT-CS214-25L Squeezer with Longeron Yoke - $499.95
BAT-CS214-40 Squeezer with 4" Heavy Duty Yoke - $514.95
Visit our website at _www.browntool.com_ (http://www.browntool.com) to view
the rest of our special year end prices.
Thanks to Matt for letting us post special announcements from time to time!
And, thanks to all of our RV customers, we value and appreciate your business!
Thank you!
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
2536 S.E. 15th Street
Oklahoma City, OK 73129
USA
405-688-6888
Fax 405-688-6555
browntool@aol.com
_www.browntool.com_ (http://www.browntool.com)
absolutely - do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Thoughts on Tool kitsThoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JohnR" <rv7@agfp.com>
I did not buy my tools set from Cleveland and wish I would have. I bought a
set of their tank dies and after using them replaced my other dies with
theirs. Seemed to be a night and day difference. The other positive is that
if you order from them and are in MO you will get things very quickly. I
placed my last order after 4:00 PM and had it the next morning. (I'm in
Iowa)
I also have a DRDT-2 and really like it. We purchased the head and built the
C-Frame portion ourselves. Didn't save a lot, if doing it again I would just
buy the entire unit.
JohnR
RV-7A Empennage under way Wing kit inventoried - Hey, it's a start!
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Hi Listers,
I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a preliminary
balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5 pounds
of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was supplied with the
kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been measured and
are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of my work
bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went through
the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal?
Thanks,
Paul
RV8QB
Wings finished, empennage finished, almost.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Electric vrs. manual trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor" <davist@xsinet.co.za>
I modified Vans manual trim on my -6 to operate fore/aft, as I didn't like the
idea of turning the wheel left to right for a pitch trim! Trim adjustment should
be fore and aft.
First I straightened the routing of the cable thro the stabiliser and then looped
the cable in a big "barrel roll" inside the aft fuselage (to shorten the cable),
and ended with the cable going from the left side of the fuselage, crossing
amidships and ending with the turning knob between the seats. This allowed
the correct fore/aft orientation of the trim knob. I made a bracket fastened
to the seat pans to hold the cable and cut a slot under the left seat pan to
allow the cable to rout under the floor (just behind the wing spar) The overlap
of the seat cushions hides the cable. This setup works extreemly well for
me and it seems to take the "jerkiness" out of the system. With the manual aileron
trim fitted one has the two trims nicely coupled together.
Can supply pics if anyone is interested.
Trevor Davis RV-6
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Reservoir |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I moved some of the washers around on the pedals to move each pedal as
close to the outside as it can get. With this seteup, they miss each
other by about 1/4 inch, which sin't a lot, but is sufficient.
Jeff
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
>Jeff,
>
>The reservoirs are about 1 1/4" in diameter, right? Did you have any
>trouble with them clearing each other as the pedals pass?
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Is the rudder 100% counterbalanced, or just partially? On the -3, -4,
and -6's, there was no counterbalance on the rudder...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: rudder balance
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a preliminary
> balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5
> pounds
> of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was supplied with
> the
> kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been measured and
> are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of my work
> bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went through
> the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
> RV8QB
> Wings finished, empennage finished, almost.
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
The RV-8 rudder is only partially counterbalanced by design. Van's
analysis and testing has shown that the rudder balance, as designed,
is adequate to prevent flutter in the recommended flight envelope.
Harmon Rockets use the RV-4 VS and non-balanced rudder, and they fly
without flutter at much higher speeds than anyone sane would be at in
their RV.
Bolt on the supplied balance weight and find something else to worry
about :)
Kevin Horton
On 2 Nov 2005, at 18:46, Kyle Boatright wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
> Is the rudder 100% counterbalanced, or just partially? On the -3, -4,
> and -6's, there was no counterbalance on the rudder...
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: rudder balance
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>>
>> Hi Listers,
>>
>> I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a
>> preliminary
>> balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5
>> pounds
>> of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was
>> supplied with
>> the
>> kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been
>> measured and
>> are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of
>> my work
>> bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went
>> through
>> the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Paul
>> RV8QB
>> Wings finished, empennage finished, almost.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Hanger space needed a SNA |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bud Newhall <RV-6@comcast.net>
A friend is looking for hanger space for a RV-6 at SNA
IF you know of some room available email me off list.
Thanks
Bud Newhall
RV-6@comcast.net
Message 26
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| Subject: | OIL COOLER FITTINGS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Blocking the front side of the cooler is more effective. I used adhesive AL
tape last year. It's about time to put it back on again...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:51 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
>
> Hello All
>
> I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is
> running too cold
> "120') and I was wondering if anyone would know the size of
> AN fittings required for a Steward Warner Oil Cooler so I can
> install these blue caps ( can't remember how they're called
> )? This will save me a trip to the hangar (about 40 miles return.)
>
>
> I tried blocking the airflow thru the cooler with a back
> plate and even tough it help a little bit, it's still not
> enough. I have continual foaming in the filler neck telling
> me the engine is not burning the excess humidity/water in the
> oil and it will eventually hurt the engine.
>
>
> If anyone has a better idea, I'm open to suggestions.
>
>
> The engine is a 0-320 E2D (160 HP)
>
>
> Thank you for your time
>
>
> You may respond off list if you wish
>
>
> Bruno Dionne
>
> RV-4 C-GDBH
>
> Rv4@videotron.ca
>
>
> -------
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
>
> Blocking the front side of the cooler is more effective. I used
> adhesive AL
> tape last year. It's about time to put it back on again...
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca]
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:51 PM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
>>
>> Hello All
>>
>> I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is
>> running too cold
(snip)
the points above are well taken about blocking the front of the
cooler, but is it possible that you have a defective vernatherm? My
understanding is that there should be very little flow of oil
through the cooler if the temp is below the vernatherm setting.
James Freeman
Message 28
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| Subject: | OIL COOLER FITTINGS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
I believe the minimum flow through the oil cooler is about 20% for safety
reasons. Therefore, you are getting significant cooling from the radiator,
even in the dead of winter. Thus the need to block the front side of the
radiator during cooler weather.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Freeman
Subject: Re: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
>
> Blocking the front side of the cooler is more effective. I used
> adhesive AL
> tape last year. It's about time to put it back on again...
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca]
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:51 PM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
>>
>> Hello All
>>
>> I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is
>> running too cold
(snip)
the points above are well taken about blocking the front of the
cooler, but is it possible that you have a defective vernatherm? My
understanding is that there should be very little flow of oil
through the cooler if the temp is below the vernatherm setting.
James Freeman
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I would call Vans.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: rudder balance
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
> Is the rudder 100% counterbalanced, or just partially? On the -3, -4,
> and -6's, there was no counterbalance on the rudder...
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: rudder balance
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>>
>> Hi Listers,
>>
>> I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a
>> preliminary
>> balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5
>> pounds
>> of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was supplied with
>> the
>> kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been measured
>> and
>> are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of my work
>> bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went
>> through
>> the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Paul
>> RV8QB
>> Wings finished, empennage finished, almost.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 30
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"RV Matronics List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
Does anyone know a source for vacuum-metalizing for retail customers? I was thinking
that may be a safe way to put a chrome finish on the black plastic Gretz
heated pitot to match the mount. I think the old chrome dip-in-chemicals route
used to plate metal would damage the pitot.
Doug Fischer
RV-9A Wings
Jenison, MI
Do not archive
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "dave" <dford@michweb.net>
>Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in the
>wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face of
>the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough
>airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers.
>
>Vince
My hottest cylinder is no. 2 and am wondering how you are adjusting the front face
of 2 to lower temp? Are you talking about the lower front curved aluminum
piece held with wire to #4?
Dave Ford
RV6
Message 32
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| Subject: | RE: Thoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "b.e.isham" <b.e.isham@cox.net>
I wanted to jump in to let you know that www.planetools.com listens to RV
builder's. From the comments regarding tool kits we will be looking at a
couple of small improvements and clarifications about the tools in the RV
Tool Kit. When an inferior tool is discovered or a new tool need is
identified, if there is not one available it will be developed and in-house.
PlaneTools goal is to provide you with quality tools that will work right
regardless of your skill level (you still may need to practice but the tools
will give you lots-of-luck, not rots-of-ruck).
PlaneTools uses recognized name brand tools and offers the kit at a lower
price. When you buy you are paying for the tools and not for a fancy
showroom with all of the other overhead it would add. You can browse the
store at the website, but if you want walk in and touch the tools plan on
wearing your work clothes. You can help drill, dimple, machine, weld,
inventory, stock, assemble, pack and ship tool kits or work on Cessna and
Piper STC modifications (sorry to mention these inferior airplanes on the RV
page but we've been doing this since the mid-1970's). It's a busy place
with not enough people and not enough space. As long as it stays that way
the prices will stay not enough to equal the competition.
Good luck, happy building, and never get in a cockpit with someone braver
than yourself!
Shane Isham
Subject: RE: Thoughts on Tool kits (not processed: message from valid
local sender)
From: Matt Johnson (matt@n559rv.com)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I have the DPDT-2 and would not go back to the slam type dimpler. I bought
my set
from ATS and ended up regretting it. A lot of the
tools were just horrible and I have eaten the cost to replace them. The
worst tool
in the ATS set was the hand squeezer. The squeezer
in the set at planetools is the good one. I cannot comment on the dimple
dies because
they are too small to see if they are the good
ones or not. The bucking bars look good. I think you will use that small "C"
shaped
one the most. The back riveter in the set is not the
best, I had one just like it and it broke. The only other thing is the flush
head
does not have a rubber sourrounding which is not bad, but
it sure is nice to have one with a rubber boot (not even sure if they offer
those
in a set).
That is my 2 cents. Good luck.
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Subject: RE: Thoughts on Tool kits
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Everyone I have ever talked to, including myself, that have used
> Paul's DRDT-2 dimpler would never give it up for the old hammer one,
> and yes I have used both. This is NOT a hand squeezer and has enough
> leverage to seriously deform and stretch the hole if you are not
> careful. Not to mention you can whip through a part in no time. When
> you are in a groove on a line of holes you can easily dimple a hole
> every 1-2 seconds.
>
> Looking at the rest of the list though I would have probably got my
> set from planetools if it was available when I purchased. The quality
> of the tools and brand names is hard to beat for the price. Plane
> tools has been around for a while selling mainly on eBay. I think I
> have even bought stuff from him before. I did get my tools from Avery,
> primarily because he is local to me. Otherwise it could have easily
> been Cleavland. Looking back the sales tax more than offset the
> convenience of being local. I have bought tools from both of them, and
> others, and have nothing but good things to say.
>
> If you want more info on the DRDT-2 go to:
> http://www.experimentalaero.com/DRDT-2.htm
>
> My $0.02
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Waiting on fuselage
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Denis Walsh
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Thoughts on Tool kits
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> OK I looked at it. It is cool, but I am from Missouri. I would have
> to see it to believe it. I believe Bob Avery is the one who invented
> the C frame hammer slammer dimpler doo dad. They work great. My
> experience over the years is that those with the better dimples are the
> ones who slam the hardest. I am a little leery of the cool model. It
> doesn't appear to have as much leverage as the hand squeezers, to me.
> Hand squeezers definitely do not have enough slam for good dimples in
> 032 or above.
>
> Hopefully we will hear from someone who has tried it. If it has enough
> leverage it would sure be nice to avoid the noise. You might call
> Avery and ask him. He is a remarkably candid person and may have an
> opinion of the comparison.
>
> Both Avery and Cleaveland are companies that have grown with Van's and
> are renouned for quality and service. You should find it very easy to
> chat with the company founders, both RV builders and get their opinions
> before you pull the trigger. I don't hear much from George Orndorff
> any more . But if he is still on the list he would also be a great
> source of comparative info.
>
> NOTe all the above is highly opinionated. I am also somewhat
> outdated, having not done a lot of building for the past 8 years.
> BUT I have looked over a lot of dimples. Do not archive.
>
> HEY it is time for all you (other) cheapskates to ante up for the fund
> drive!!
> Denis Walsh
>
> On Nov 1, 2005, at 9:31 AM, Gerns25@netscape.net wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerns25@netscape.net
> >
> > I am going to be purchasing a tool kit in the next couple of days.
> > I have heard that the Avery is the best buy (or maybe the most
> > commonly purchased kit). I have been looking at the kit put together
> > by Planetools.com and am especially interested in the upgraded
> C-frame
> > dimpler. Does anyone have experience with both
> > kits or have any opinions on which one is the "best" buy.
> > Comparing the tool lists, it looks like the Avery comes with a few
> > more tools but it is $300+ more and doesn't offer the cool dimpler.
> > Can someone who has built an RV take a look at the complete list of
> > tools on www.planetools.com for me and tell me what they think from
> > experience? Thanks for the help.
> >
> > Darin
> >
> > Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> > As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/
> > register
> >
> > Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
> >
> > New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer Search from anywhere on
> > the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> > Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
> >
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 33
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| Subject: | telephone number? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Rhea" <rv6larry@msn.com>
Bill Kaiser.
Please give me another call .I lost your phone #.
Larry Rhea
rv6larry@msn.com
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