---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 11/02/05: 33 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:01 AM - Orndorff Construction Videos For Sale (William Scaringe) 2. 04:25 AM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Bob) 3. 04:27 AM - Re: hot cylinder cure (Bob) 4. 05:44 AM - Wing Tip Comm Antennas (bob rundle) 5. 06:59 AM - Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? (Richard Seiders) 6. 07:02 AM - Brake Reservoir (bob rundle) 7. 07:11 AM - Re: Hartzell Hub Thru Bolt Torque (Richard Seiders) 8. 07:54 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Ralph Howey) 9. 07:54 AM - Re: When to Paint the Cockpit? (Dwight Frye) 10. 07:56 AM - In search of: custom cargo net (Dan Checkoway) 11. 07:56 AM - Re: Camlocs instead of hinges for the cowl? (Doug Weiler) 12. 08:00 AM - Re: Wing Tip Comm Antennas (Ed Holyoke) 13. 08:49 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Jeff Point) 14. 09:27 AM - Re:Thoughts on Tool kits (Jerry2DT@aol.com) 15. 10:16 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Ed Holyoke) 16. 11:45 AM - OIL COOLER FITTINGS (Bruno) 17. 12:21 PM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (Fiveonepw@AOL.COM) 18. 01:55 PM - Advertisement - Sioux Mini Palm Drill / Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer SALE (BrownTool@AOL.COM) 19. 02:36 PM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kitsThoughts on Tool kits (JohnR) 20. 02:42 PM - rudder balance (Paul Rice) 21. 02:50 PM - Electric vrs. manual trim (Trevor) 22. 03:29 PM - Re: Brake Reservoir (Jeff Point) 23. 03:47 PM - Re: rudder balance (Kyle Boatright) 24. 04:30 PM - Re: rudder balance (Kevin Horton) 25. 05:43 PM - Hanger space needed a SNA (Bud Newhall) 26. 05:52 PM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (Larry Bowen) 27. 06:50 PM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (James Freeman) 28. 07:46 PM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (Pat Hatch) 29. 08:03 PM - Re: rudder balance (Jeff Dowling) 30. 08:13 PM - Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? (Douglas A. Fischer) 31. 09:22 PM - hot cylinder #2 (dave) 32. 10:12 PM - Re: Thoughts on Tool kits (b.e.isham) 33. 11:32 PM - telephone number? (Larry Rhea) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:01:48 AM PST US From: William Scaringe Subject: RV-List: Orndorff Construction Videos For Sale --> RV-List message posted by: William Scaringe I am selling some Orndorff Construction Videos on eBay (link below). These are VHS format in excellent condition: Sheet Metal Tools (1 VHS Tape): An introduction to the tools needed to build an aluminum airplane. Tools are explained and then used to demonstrate the construction of a sample control surface. (60 minutes) RV Prepunched Empennage (2 VHS Tapes): Step by step construction of the complete RV6/6A, RV7/7A and RV8/8A empennage with prepunched skins. (3 hours) Search for eBay item# 8011498890 or use the link below: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8011498890 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:25:44 AM PST US From: Bob Subject: RE: RV-List: hot cylinder cure --> RV-List message posted by: Bob > > >Are you guys talking about the side baffle plate that screws to the >cylinder? It looks, in the pix, that the washer/spacer is to be inserted between the fins and the baffle. Is there a bolt hole there? I'm perplexed I am talking about the back baffle behind the number 3 cylinder. There is a bolt hole back there that allows one to attach the back baffle to the engine cylinder. If the back baffle is too tight, then not enough cooling air will flow down through the cylinder fins. Dan Checkoway has a real neat picture on his website about this. This is his idea, I just tried it and it worked for me. Bob RV6 NightFighter ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:27:59 AM PST US From: Bob Subject: Re: RV-List: hot cylinder cure --> RV-List message posted by: Bob I must make a correction to my previous email. The picture is not on Dan Checkoway's web site but it is on Vince's, see URL below. His web site explains the procedure very well. Bob RV6 Nightfighter >This has been discussed before... but now there's a photo and some text >to make it easier to understand. >http://vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm > >Vince ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:44:34 AM PST US From: "bob rundle" Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Comm Antennas --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" I'm installing the Bob Archer Comm antenna in wing tip of RV7A. I have searched the archives but remain with a couple questions: 1. I also have a marker beacon antenna in this wing tip. Will these antennas interfere with each other? 2. The instructions for the comm antenna indicate the position as vertically in the top of the vertical stab. Do RV guys typically install these antenna horizontally in the wing tip or try and make the antenna at least partically vertical by installing it on the very outside of the wingtip? This is my second comm so I'd not as concerned about great reception. Thanks BobR ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:59:23 AM PST US From: Richard Seiders Subject: Re: RV-List: When to Paint the Cockpit? --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders Dwight, I painted my interior as soon as fuse was completed and before anything went in. Never had a regret. Dick rv6a comp. 2002 At 10:59 AM 11/1/2005, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye > >I want to solicit some opinions from the collective wisdom of the >list. I am closing in on completing all the various things needed >after the initial fitting of the wings (i.e. drilling the belly skin >to the inboard rib, fitting the wing root fairing, installing the >flap pushrod, etc., etc.). I put both wings on to do the setting of >the sweep/incidence and for drilling the rear spart attach bolt hole, >but then took one wing off so I could close my garage again. This >means I'm doing things in stages, and am leaving the installing of >the plumbing in the cockpit until after all the wing-specific work >is complete. > >It _seems_ to me that this is the perfect time to paint the cockpit. >It is before any of the plumbing has been run, any wires are run, and >while I can easily push my rudder cables back out of the line of fire. >The rudder pedals are currently out, and I have not installed the FI >pump or the fuel selector in the center of the cockpit yet (though they >are all fitted/drilled and ready to install). In other words, all those >things that I don't want to get paint on are at the moment already out >of my way. To top it off, all the various panels that should be painted >independently are already off the plane as well. What am I missing that >will make me sorry I painted now rather than later? > > -- Dwight > >do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:02:30 AM PST US From: "bob rundle" Subject: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" I have seen some builders use small brake reservoirs attached directly to the master cylinders. Links: http://www.romeolima.com/RV8//Pictures/Mvc-565x.jpg http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/reservoirs.php Question: The reservoir is no longer the high point in the brake system. How well will these work? When bleeding the system, the high part of the black brake lines may not be full of brake fluid. Anyone have practicle experience doing this? I'd love to eliminate all those leaking plastic lines like I had in my last aircraft. BobR ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:11:57 AM PST US From: Richard Seiders Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Hub Thru Bolt Torque --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders check prop manual it's in there. Think it's 22 ft lbs. Dick At 06:31 PM 11/1/2005, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Kugler" > >Anyone out there know what torque Hartzell calls out for the bolts that hold >the hub halves together, including the one ones that secure the backing >plate? I'm referencing the C2YK compact hub like most of us use on our RVs? > >Thanks in advance, > >-Don >RV-8 NJ > >Don Kugler >donkugler@earthlink.net > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:54:21 AM PST US From: "Ralph Howey" Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph Howey" I'm considering these as well and was wondering about installing a park brake do not archive Ralph RV8 QB ----- Original Message ----- From: "bob rundle" Subject: RV-List: Brake Reservoir > --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" > > I have seen some builders use small brake reservoirs attached directly to > the master cylinders. > > Links: > http://www.romeolima.com/RV8//Pictures/Mvc-565x.jpg > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/reservoirs.php > > Question: > The reservoir is no longer the high point in the brake system. How well > will these work? When bleeding the system, the high part of the black > brake > lines may not be full of brake fluid. Anyone have practicle experience > doing > this? I'd love to eliminate all those leaking plastic lines like I had in > my > last aircraft. > > BobR > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:54:23 AM PST US From: Dwight Frye Subject: Re: RV-List: When to Paint the Cockpit? --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye This seems to be everyone's opinion .. and I'm convinced. :) Now I need to see if anyone has a Hobbyair system, in good condition, laying around that they want to get rid of. I think they are WAY too expensive. But what do I know? I've seen suggestions for using shop-vacs and garden hoses and am quite tempted ... but ... I confess to worrying about the ad hoc nature of the lashup and what strange chemicals from out-gassing of the plastic I might be force-breathing. Sooooo ... I think a Hobbyair is the way to go, for me. If nobody else has one on the shelf for sale cheap, then in a short while *I* might have one for sale cheap, myself. :) Thanks for everyone's input. 'Tis appreciated. -- Dwight ( do not archive ) On Wed Nov 2 09:58:12 2005, Richard Seiders wrote : >Dwight, I painted my interior as soon as fuse was completed and before >anything went in. Never had a regret. >Dick rv6a comp. 2002 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:56:52 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: In search of: custom cargo net --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I'm looking for elastic mesh cargo netting, preferably in a CUSTOM size. Something like this: http://images.rvproject.com/images/elastic_net.jpg but customized to my preferred dimensions. Anybody know where to get this stuff? How to make it yourself? I basically want to make elastic pouches that go in front of the spar on my RV-7. Ideally the sides and bottom will be fixed with velcro, but the top "opening" will be elastic. Something like that... Any ideas? )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:56:52 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Camlocs instead of hinges for the cowl? From: Doug Weiler --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler On 11/1/05 4:56 PM, "Dean Pichon" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" > > Hi All, > > With 300+ hours on my -4, I have broken a number of hinge eyelets and expect > to find more as I accumulate more hours. I have found in the archives > several references to "upgrading" to Camlocs such as are available from > Skybolt. I have two questions: > > For those using Camlocs, how has this solution stood up to vibration, wear > and tear, etc? > > For those who have installed Camlocs on a -4, did the curvature of the cowl > in the area of the cheeks cause any problems with installation of the plate > used to carry the Camloc receptacles? > > Thanks in advance. > Dean: I have Camlocs installed on my RV-4. They are the "small" ones and look very nice. 250 hours so far and no issues whatsoever. The only downside is the use of Camlocs on the upper cowl/firewall junction directing in front of the canopy. The curvature here is rather steep and results in some shallow "scalloping" but not too bad. I'd be glad to send you some photos of how I did it. Just let me know. Doug Weiler N722DW, RV-4 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:00:56 AM PST US From: "Ed Holyoke" Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing Tip Comm Antennas --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" Bob, 1. The marker beacon goes in the other wingtip with the nav antenna (if installed). Call Bob Archer for advice. 2. Get as much vertical orientation as you can. I posted some pix of my installation here: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bicyclop@pacbell.net.09.03.2005/ Not flying yet so I can't say how well it'll work. Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob rundle Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Comm Antennas --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" I'm installing the Bob Archer Comm antenna in wing tip of RV7A. I have searched the archives but remain with a couple questions: 1. I also have a marker beacon antenna in this wing tip. Will these antennas interfere with each other? 2. The instructions for the comm antenna indicate the position as vertically in the top of the vertical stab. Do RV guys typically install these antenna horizontally in the wing tip or try and make the antenna at least partically vertical by installing it on the very outside of the wingtip? This is my second comm so I'd not as concerned about great reception. Thanks BobR ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:49:30 AM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point I have these reservoirs on the pilot side master cylinders (no brakes on pax side) and they work great. No problems bleeding the brakes (from the bottom up) and no air seems to be trapped in the system. I recently noticed a very slight "spongieness" on the left side, and re-bled this side, which restored the brake feel. This was after 1 1/2 years and 250 hours. As for the parking brake, I have a Matco parking brake installed in the system. The installation is no different than if you were using the Vans brake reservoir. It also works great, but I have never had to use it! I'm thinking of yanking the whole thing out. Jeff Point RV-6 Milwaukee > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:27:08 AM PST US From: Jerry2DT@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re:Thoughts on Tool kits --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com Bill... So YOU'RE the guy who has been outbidding me on all this stuff... I was wondering who the spendthrift was... Sorry... :) Do not archive... Jerry Cochran Wilsonville, OR The real deals are on high quality name brand used tools. I like to buy used aircraft tools from ToolsEZ the best. Some choice buys on Ebay include: A CP-214 pneumatic squeezer (C style) for $69. A Rockwell 90 degree 1/4-28 air drill for $39. A CP-351 alligator squeezer with 9" deep jaws for $120. I bought 4 Semco sealant guns with a 2 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft box filled with tubes, nozzles, spatulas, etc. for $60. (A sealant gun makes Pro-Seal much more bearable, almost fun.) The above tools would have cost me over $3000 new, but I paid just $228 for them. A few other gems from Ebay: 350 amp inverter TIG welder for $985 VOR/ILS with marker beacons - indicator, receiver, and connection cable for just $28. Hobbs meter for $2.52. Bill Dube' ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:16:48 AM PST US From: "Ed Holyoke" Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" Jeff, The reservoirs are about 1 1/4" in diameter, right? Did you have any trouble with them clearing each other as the pedals pass? Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point I have these reservoirs on the pilot side master cylinders (no brakes on pax side) and they work great. No problems bleeding the brakes (from the bottom up) and no air seems to be trapped in the system. I recently noticed a very slight "spongieness" on the left side, and re-bled this side, which restored the brake feel. This was after 1 1/2 years and 250 hours. As for the parking brake, I have a Matco parking brake installed in the system. The installation is no different than if you were using the Vans brake reservoir. It also works great, but I have never had to use it! I'm thinking of yanking the whole thing out. Jeff Point RV-6 Milwaukee > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 11:45:29 AM PST US From: Bruno Subject: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno Hello All I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is running too cold "120') and I was wondering if anyone would know the size of AN fittings required for a Steward Warner Oil Cooler so I can install these blue caps ( can't remember how they're called )? This will save me a trip to the hangar (about 40 miles return.) I tried blocking the airflow thru the cooler with a back plate and even tough it help a little bit, it's still not enough. I have continual foaming in the filler neck telling me the engine is not burning the excess humidity/water in the oil and it will eventually hurt the engine. If anyone has a better idea, I'm open to suggestions. The engine is a 0-320 E2D (160 HP) Thank you for your time You may respond off list if you wish Bruno Dionne RV-4 C-GDBH Rv4@videotron.ca ------- ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:21:47 PM PST US From: Fiveonepw@AOL.COM Subject: Re: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 11/2/05 1:50:02 PM Central Standard Time, rv4@videotron.ca writes: > .) > > > I tried blocking the airflow thru the cooler with a back plate and even > tough it help a little bit, it's still not enough. >>> Bruno- before you start disconnecting stuff, it sounds like you blocked the REAR of the cooler- you might want to try blocking the FRONT of the cooler- Many builders over the years have complained of little improvement by trying to block the airflow THROUGH the cooler from the rear. I suspect there is a lot of air circulation around the fins/tubes in flight that is still removing quite a bit of heat from them. A butterfly valve on my stock E3D blocks the front and it works well to raise temps. See: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5001 The butterfly closes off the airflow very well, but I'd suspect a simple plate covering the INLET face of the cooler would achieve the same thing. Might be worth a try... Mark ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 01:55:05 PM PST US From: BrownTool@AOL.COM Subject: RV-List: Advertisement - Sioux Mini Palm Drill / Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer SALE --> RV-List message posted by: BrownTool@aol.com This is an Advertisement / Tool SALE Announcement - it will only be posted one time. To all RVers: Our Year End Specials promotion is in full swing and we are announcing it here first, before we mail our sale flyers late this week. We are the largest aerospace distributor of Sioux Tools in the world and all of these products are in stock and ready for immediate shipment. While supplies last, we are including a free Sioux Baseball Cap with any Sioux Tool Purchase. Sioux 1410 Mini Palm Drill (USA Made) - $179.95 Sale Price! Sioux 1412 Mini Palm Drill (USA Made) - $184.95 Sale Price Sioux 1412R Reversible Palm Drill (USA Made) - $214.95 Sale Price! Sioux 2X or 3X Rivet Gun (USA Made) $219.95 Sale Price! Sioux 90 Deg. Threaded Drill - (USA Made) $329.95 Sale Price! Sioux 1450ES Standard Drill (USA Made) $139.95 Sale Price! Cleco Pliers with comfort grips! $4.95 Sale Price And we are announcing our LOWEST PRICE EVER on brand new, American Made, first quality Pneumatic Rivet Squeezers with our C-Rex Yokes (C-Rex Yokes are pre-drilled and tapped, permitting them to easily be bench mounted!) BAT-CS214-NY Squeezer Only - No Yoke - $420.95 BAT-CS214-25 Squeezer with 2-1/2" C-Rex Yoke - $479.95 BAT-CS214-30 Squeezer with 3" yoke - $489.95 BAT-CS214-25L Squeezer with Longeron Yoke - $499.95 BAT-CS214-40 Squeezer with 4" Heavy Duty Yoke - $514.95 Visit our website at _www.browntool.com_ (http://www.browntool.com) to view the rest of our special year end prices. Thanks to Matt for letting us post special announcements from time to time! And, thanks to all of our RV customers, we value and appreciate your business! Thank you! Michael Brown Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. 2536 S.E. 15th Street Oklahoma City, OK 73129 USA 405-688-6888 Fax 405-688-6555 browntool@aol.com _www.browntool.com_ (http://www.browntool.com) absolutely - do not archive ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 02:36:40 PM PST US From: "JohnR" Subject: Re: RV-List: Thoughts on Tool kitsThoughts on Tool kits --> RV-List message posted by: "JohnR" I did not buy my tools set from Cleveland and wish I would have. I bought a set of their tank dies and after using them replaced my other dies with theirs. Seemed to be a night and day difference. The other positive is that if you order from them and are in MO you will get things very quickly. I placed my last order after 4:00 PM and had it the next morning. (I'm in Iowa) I also have a DRDT-2 and really like it. We purchased the head and built the C-Frame portion ourselves. Didn't save a lot, if doing it again I would just buy the entire unit. JohnR RV-7A Empennage under way Wing kit inventoried - Hey, it's a start! ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 02:42:17 PM PST US From: "Paul Rice" Subject: RV-List: rudder balance --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" Hi Listers, I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a preliminary balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5 pounds of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was supplied with the kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been measured and are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of my work bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went through the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal? Thanks, Paul RV8QB Wings finished, empennage finished, almost. ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 02:50:09 PM PST US From: "Trevor" Subject: RV-List: Electric vrs. manual trim --> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor" I modified Vans manual trim on my -6 to operate fore/aft, as I didn't like the idea of turning the wheel left to right for a pitch trim! Trim adjustment should be fore and aft. First I straightened the routing of the cable thro the stabiliser and then looped the cable in a big "barrel roll" inside the aft fuselage (to shorten the cable), and ended with the cable going from the left side of the fuselage, crossing amidships and ending with the turning knob between the seats. This allowed the correct fore/aft orientation of the trim knob. I made a bracket fastened to the seat pans to hold the cable and cut a slot under the left seat pan to allow the cable to rout under the floor (just behind the wing spar) The overlap of the seat cushions hides the cable. This setup works extreemly well for me and it seems to take the "jerkiness" out of the system. With the manual aileron trim fitted one has the two trims nicely coupled together. Can supply pics if anyone is interested. Trevor Davis RV-6 ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:29:57 PM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Reservoir --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point I moved some of the washers around on the pedals to move each pedal as close to the outside as it can get. With this seteup, they miss each other by about 1/4 inch, which sin't a lot, but is sufficient. Jeff Ed Holyoke wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" > >Jeff, > >The reservoirs are about 1 1/4" in diameter, right? Did you have any >trouble with them clearing each other as the pedals pass? > > > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 03:47:39 PM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: Re: RV-List: rudder balance --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" Is the rudder 100% counterbalanced, or just partially? On the -3, -4, and -6's, there was no counterbalance on the rudder... KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Rice" Subject: RV-List: rudder balance > --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" > > Hi Listers, > > I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a preliminary > balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5 > pounds > of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was supplied with > the > kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been measured and > are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of my work > bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went through > the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal? > > Thanks, > Paul > RV8QB > Wings finished, empennage finished, almost. > > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 04:30:54 PM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: rudder balance --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton The RV-8 rudder is only partially counterbalanced by design. Van's analysis and testing has shown that the rudder balance, as designed, is adequate to prevent flutter in the recommended flight envelope. Harmon Rockets use the RV-4 VS and non-balanced rudder, and they fly without flutter at much higher speeds than anyone sane would be at in their RV. Bolt on the supplied balance weight and find something else to worry about :) Kevin Horton On 2 Nov 2005, at 18:46, Kyle Boatright wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" > > > Is the rudder 100% counterbalanced, or just partially? On the -3, -4, > and -6's, there was no counterbalance on the rudder... > > KB > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul Rice" > To: > Subject: RV-List: rudder balance > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" >> >> Hi Listers, >> >> I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a >> preliminary >> balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5 >> pounds >> of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was >> supplied with >> the >> kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been >> measured and >> are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of >> my work >> bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went >> through >> the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal? >> >> Thanks, >> Paul >> RV8QB >> Wings finished, empennage finished, almost. >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 05:43:29 PM PST US From: Bud Newhall Subject: RV-List: Hanger space needed a SNA --> RV-List message posted by: Bud Newhall A friend is looking for hanger space for a RV-6 at SNA IF you know of some room available email me off list. Thanks Bud Newhall RV-6@comcast.net ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:52:09 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" Blocking the front side of the cooler is more effective. I used adhesive AL tape last year. It's about time to put it back on again... - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca] > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:51 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS > > --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno > > Hello All > > I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is > running too cold > "120') and I was wondering if anyone would know the size of > AN fittings required for a Steward Warner Oil Cooler so I can > install these blue caps ( can't remember how they're called > )? This will save me a trip to the hangar (about 40 miles return.) > > > I tried blocking the airflow thru the cooler with a back > plate and even tough it help a little bit, it's still not > enough. I have continual foaming in the filler neck telling > me the engine is not burning the excess humidity/water in the > oil and it will eventually hurt the engine. > > > If anyone has a better idea, I'm open to suggestions. > > > The engine is a 0-320 E2D (160 HP) > > > Thank you for your time > > > You may respond off list if you wish > > > Bruno Dionne > > RV-4 C-GDBH > > Rv4@videotron.ca > > > ------- > > > Photoshare, and much much more: > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 06:50:41 PM PST US From: James Freeman Subject: Re: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS --> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman > > Blocking the front side of the cooler is more effective. I used > adhesive AL > tape last year. It's about time to put it back on again... > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry@BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca] >> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:51 PM >> To: rv-list@matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS >> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno >> >> Hello All >> >> I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is >> running too cold (snip) the points above are well taken about blocking the front of the cooler, but is it possible that you have a defective vernatherm? My understanding is that there should be very little flow of oil through the cooler if the temp is below the vernatherm setting. James Freeman ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 07:46:52 PM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: RE: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" I believe the minimum flow through the oil cooler is about 20% for safety reasons. Therefore, you are getting significant cooling from the radiator, even in the dead of winter. Thus the need to block the front side of the radiator during cooler weather. Pat Hatch RV-6 RV-7 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Freeman Subject: Re: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS --> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman > > Blocking the front side of the cooler is more effective. I used > adhesive AL > tape last year. It's about time to put it back on again... > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry@BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca] >> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:51 PM >> To: rv-list@matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS >> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno >> >> Hello All >> >> I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is >> running too cold (snip) the points above are well taken about blocking the front of the cooler, but is it possible that you have a defective vernatherm? My understanding is that there should be very little flow of oil through the cooler if the temp is below the vernatherm setting. James Freeman ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 08:03:05 PM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: rudder balance --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" I would call Vans. Shemp ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: Re: RV-List: rudder balance > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" > > Is the rudder 100% counterbalanced, or just partially? On the -3, -4, > and -6's, there was no counterbalance on the rudder... > > KB > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul Rice" > To: > Subject: RV-List: rudder balance > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" >> >> Hi Listers, >> >> I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a >> preliminary >> balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5 >> pounds >> of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was supplied with >> the >> kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been measured >> and >> are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of my work >> bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went >> through >> the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal? >> >> Thanks, >> Paul >> RV8QB >> Wings finished, empennage finished, almost. >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 08:13:25 PM PST US From: "Douglas A. Fischer" "RV Matronics List" Subject: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" Does anyone know a source for vacuum-metalizing for retail customers? I was thinking that may be a safe way to put a chrome finish on the black plastic Gretz heated pitot to match the mount. I think the old chrome dip-in-chemicals route used to plate metal would damage the pitot. Doug Fischer RV-9A Wings Jenison, MI Do not archive ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 09:22:51 PM PST US From: "dave" Subject: RV-List: hot cylinder #2 --> RV-List message posted by: "dave" >Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in the >wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face of >the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough >airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers. > >Vince My hottest cylinder is no. 2 and am wondering how you are adjusting the front face of 2 to lower temp? Are you talking about the lower front curved aluminum piece held with wire to #4? Dave Ford RV6 ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 10:12:05 PM PST US From: "b.e.isham" Subject: RV-List: RE: Thoughts on Tool kits --> RV-List message posted by: "b.e.isham" I wanted to jump in to let you know that www.planetools.com listens to RV builder's. From the comments regarding tool kits we will be looking at a couple of small improvements and clarifications about the tools in the RV Tool Kit. When an inferior tool is discovered or a new tool need is identified, if there is not one available it will be developed and in-house. PlaneTools goal is to provide you with quality tools that will work right regardless of your skill level (you still may need to practice but the tools will give you lots-of-luck, not rots-of-ruck). PlaneTools uses recognized name brand tools and offers the kit at a lower price. When you buy you are paying for the tools and not for a fancy showroom with all of the other overhead it would add. You can browse the store at the website, but if you want walk in and touch the tools plan on wearing your work clothes. You can help drill, dimple, machine, weld, inventory, stock, assemble, pack and ship tool kits or work on Cessna and Piper STC modifications (sorry to mention these inferior airplanes on the RV page but we've been doing this since the mid-1970's). It's a busy place with not enough people and not enough space. As long as it stays that way the prices will stay not enough to equal the competition. Good luck, happy building, and never get in a cockpit with someone braver than yourself! Shane Isham Subject: RE: Thoughts on Tool kits (not processed: message from valid local sender) From: Matt Johnson (matt@n559rv.com) --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" I have the DPDT-2 and would not go back to the slam type dimpler. I bought my set from ATS and ended up regretting it. A lot of the tools were just horrible and I have eaten the cost to replace them. The worst tool in the ATS set was the hand squeezer. The squeezer in the set at planetools is the good one. I cannot comment on the dimple dies because they are too small to see if they are the good ones or not. The bucking bars look good. I think you will use that small "C" shaped one the most. The back riveter in the set is not the best, I had one just like it and it broke. The only other thing is the flush head does not have a rubber sourrounding which is not bad, but it sure is nice to have one with a rubber boot (not even sure if they offer those in a set). That is my 2 cents. Good luck. - Matt -----Original Message----- From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Subject: RE: Thoughts on Tool kits > --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" > > > Everyone I have ever talked to, including myself, that have used > Paul's DRDT-2 dimpler would never give it up for the old hammer one, > and yes I have used both. This is NOT a hand squeezer and has enough > leverage to seriously deform and stretch the hole if you are not > careful. Not to mention you can whip through a part in no time. When > you are in a groove on a line of holes you can easily dimple a hole > every 1-2 seconds. > > Looking at the rest of the list though I would have probably got my > set from planetools if it was available when I purchased. The quality > of the tools and brand names is hard to beat for the price. Plane > tools has been around for a while selling mainly on eBay. I think I > have even bought stuff from him before. I did get my tools from Avery, > primarily because he is local to me. Otherwise it could have easily > been Cleavland. Looking back the sales tax more than offset the > convenience of being local. I have bought tools from both of them, and > others, and have nothing but good things to say. > > If you want more info on the DRDT-2 go to: > http://www.experimentalaero.com/DRDT-2.htm > > My $0.02 > > Michael Sausen > -10 #352 Waiting on fuselage > Do not archive > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Denis Walsh > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Thoughts on Tool kits > > --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh > > OK I looked at it. It is cool, but I am from Missouri. I would have > to see it to believe it. I believe Bob Avery is the one who invented > the C frame hammer slammer dimpler doo dad. They work great. My > experience over the years is that those with the better dimples are the > ones who slam the hardest. I am a little leery of the cool model. It > doesn't appear to have as much leverage as the hand squeezers, to me. > Hand squeezers definitely do not have enough slam for good dimples in > 032 or above. > > Hopefully we will hear from someone who has tried it. If it has enough > leverage it would sure be nice to avoid the noise. You might call > Avery and ask him. He is a remarkably candid person and may have an > opinion of the comparison. > > Both Avery and Cleaveland are companies that have grown with Van's and > are renouned for quality and service. You should find it very easy to > chat with the company founders, both RV builders and get their opinions > before you pull the trigger. I don't hear much from George Orndorff > any more . But if he is still on the list he would also be a great > source of comparative info. > > NOTe all the above is highly opinionated. I am also somewhat > outdated, having not done a lot of building for the past 8 years. > BUT I have looked over a lot of dimples. Do not archive. > > HEY it is time for all you (other) cheapskates to ante up for the fund > drive!! > Denis Walsh > > On Nov 1, 2005, at 9:31 AM, Gerns25@netscape.net wrote: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerns25@netscape.net > > > > I am going to be purchasing a tool kit in the next couple of days. > > I have heard that the Avery is the best buy (or maybe the most > > commonly purchased kit). I have been looking at the kit put together > > by Planetools.com and am especially interested in the upgraded > C-frame > > dimpler. Does anyone have experience with both > > kits or have any opinions on which one is the "best" buy. > > Comparing the tool lists, it looks like the Avery comes with a few > > more tools but it is $300+ more and doesn't offer the cool dimpler. > > Can someone who has built an RV take a look at the complete list of > > tools on www.planetools.com for me and tell me what they think from > > experience? Thanks for the help. > > > > Darin > > > > Switch to Netscape Internet Service. > > As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/ > > register > > > > Netscape. Just the Net You Need. > > > > New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer Search from anywhere on > > the Web and block those annoying pop-ups. > > Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp > > -- Checked by AVG Free Edition. ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 11:32:36 PM PST US From: "Larry Rhea" Subject: RV-List: telephone number? --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Rhea" Bill Kaiser. Please give me another call .I lost your phone #. Larry Rhea rv6larry@msn.com