Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:52 AM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (LarryRobertHelming)
2. 06:52 AM - Re: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? (Jeff Dowling)
3. 06:53 AM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (Jeff Dowling)
4. 08:00 AM - Re: rudder balance (Phil Birkelbach)
5. 08:55 AM - Re: rudder balance (linn walters)
6. 09:19 AM - Re: rudder balance (Bob)
7. 09:20 AM - Wing Tip Comm Antennas (Robert E. Newhall II)
8. 09:52 AM - Re: rudder balance (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
9. 09:58 AM - Re: rudder balance (Kelly McMullen)
10. 10:20 AM - Re: rudder balance (linn walters)
11. 10:36 AM - Re: rudder balance (Kelly McMullen)
12. 12:01 PM - Wing spar main Bolt nut size (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
13. 12:53 PM - Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A (Ralph E. Capen)
14. 12:59 PM - voltage regulator? (Randy Garrett)
15. 01:14 PM - TruTrak with Navaid Servo (Ed Holyoke)
16. 01:21 PM - Re: rudder balance (Glaeser, Dennis A)
17. 01:31 PM - Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS (c.ennis)
18. 01:40 PM - Re: Re:Thoughts on Tool kits (MLWynn@aol.com)
19. 01:40 PM - Re: Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 (sportav8r@aol.com.1.0000.-4.4912)
20. 02:22 PM - Re: Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912 (Walter Tondu)
21. 02:33 PM - Re: Re: rudder balance (Kevin Horton)
22. 02:54 PM - Re: Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912 (Walter Tondu)
23. 03:34 PM - Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912 (Rick Galati)
24. 07:11 PM - RE-OIL COOLER FITTING (Bruno)
25. 08:10 PM - Re: rudder balance (Dave Nellis)
26. 08:10 PM - Re: RE-OIL COOLER FITTING (rv6fly)
27. 09:48 PM - Blast tubes and heat flange (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
28. 10:49 PM - Re: voltage regulator? (G McNutt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Bruno, I agree with Freeman's reply on this. The cooler itself should not
be a factor in cooling the oil unless the oil temperature gets above
something like 180 degrees. You should be looking at the vernatherm.
Search the archives for vernatherm for more info on this. do not archive
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Freeman" <flyeyes@mac.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS
> --> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
>
>
>>
>> Blocking the front side of the cooler is more effective. I used
>> adhesive AL
>> tape last year. It's about time to put it back on again...
>>
>> -
>> Larry Bowen
>> Larry@BowenAero.com
>> http://BowenAero.com
>>
>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca]
>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:51 PM
>>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS
>>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
>>>
>>> Hello All
>>>
>>> I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is
>>> running too cold
> (snip)
>
>
> the points above are well taken about blocking the front of the
> cooler, but is it possible that you have a defective vernatherm? My
> understanding is that there should be very little flow of oil
> through the cooler if the temp is below the vernatherm setting.
>
> James Freeman
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Speaking of the Gretz mount, mine is rusting after only a year, stored
indoors!!
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
<rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
>
> Does anyone know a source for vacuum-metalizing for retail customers? I
> was thinking that may be a safe way to put a chrome finish on the black
> plastic Gretz heated pitot to match the mount. I think the old chrome
> dip-in-chemicals route used to plate metal would damage the pitot.
>
> Doug Fischer
> RV-9A Wings
> Jenison, MI
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Not all engines have vernatherms.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> Bruno, I agree with Freeman's reply on this. The cooler itself should not
> be a factor in cooling the oil unless the oil temperature gets above
> something like 180 degrees. You should be looking at the vernatherm.
> Search the archives for vernatherm for more info on this. do not archive
>
> Indiana Larry
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Freeman" <flyeyes@mac.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Blocking the front side of the cooler is more effective. I used
>>> adhesive AL
>>> tape last year. It's about time to put it back on again...
>>>
>>> -
>>> Larry Bowen
>>> Larry@BowenAero.com
>>> http://BowenAero.com
>>>
>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca]
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:51 PM
>>>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: RV-List: OIL COOLER FITTINGS
>>>>
>>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
>>>>
>>>> Hello All
>>>>
>>>> I need to bypass my Oil Cooler (My engine is
>>>> running too cold
>> (snip)
>>
>>
>> the points above are well taken about blocking the front of the
>> cooler, but is it possible that you have a defective vernatherm? My
>> understanding is that there should be very little flow of oil
>> through the cooler if the temp is below the vernatherm setting.
>>
>> James Freeman
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
You don't have to balance the rudder like you do the elevators. Bolt on
the weight they give you and go fly.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Phase I
http://www.myrv7.com
Paul Rice wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>
>Hi Listers,
>
>I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a preliminary
>balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5 pounds
>of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was supplied with the
>kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been measured and
>are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of my work
>bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went through
>the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal?
>
>Thanks,
>Paul
>RV8QB
>Wings finished, empennage finished, almost.
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I don't understand this. All moveable surfaces are subject to flutter,
no matter what plane (no, not airplane) they're mounted in. Well, the
flaps move but are technically 'rigid' so we'll discount the flaps.
Since I'm not building .... yet, I don't have any info to peruse .....
but I'd expect the rudder to have balance requirements like the
elevators. What am I missing other than "that's the way Van designed it"???
Linn
do not archive
Phil Birkelbach wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>You don't have to balance the rudder like you do the elevators. Bolt on
>the weight they give you and go fly.
>
>Godspeed,
>
>Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>RV-7 N727WB - Phase I
>http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
>Paul Rice wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>>
>>Hi Listers,
>>
>>I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a preliminary
>>balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add about 4.5 pounds
>>of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to what was supplied with the
>>kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod ends have been measured and
>>are correct. To check it, I put some long screws in the edge of my work
>>bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws with rods that went through
>>the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Paul
>>RV8QB
>>Wings finished, empennage finished, almost.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>I don't understand this. All moveable surfaces are subject to flutter,
>no matter what plane (no, not airplane) they're mounted in. Well, the
>flaps move but are technically 'rigid' so we'll discount the flaps.
>Since I'm not building .... yet, I don't have any info to peruse .....
>but I'd expect the rudder to have balance requirements like the
>elevators. What am I missing other than "that's the way Van designed it"???
It is an anathema for a designer to add or design extra stuff that is not
needed. In this case it adds weight, and complexity. Van designs the
aircraft to be light, if you want a heavy aircraft there are plenty of
certified planes to choose from.
I would expect rudder flutter at some speed, but if for argument that speed
is 330kts, why counterbalance if Vne is 182kts. For the RV6 I would assume
that the flutter speed is well beyond the Vne speed. I once asked the
engineers at Van about the elevator counterbalance, and I was told that the
counterbalance structure was designed/required to withstand 25Gs. Wow!!
I am not saying that I have it all right, but...there is more to this than
just a simple answer.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Wing Tip Comm Antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2@yahoo.com>
Bob,
I wasn't very satisfied with the reception of that
comm antenna. I had mine installed in my right
wingtip pretty much flat with the bottom of the
wingtip. Maybe the problem was that it was horizontal
but my exerience was that I could only pick up ATIS
within 10nm of my airport and I had trouble hearing
several control towers (KCYS & KCOS) even within 5nm
of the airport. I noticed if I banked the plane the
signal would come in and out. After a year of flying,
I replaced my wingtip antenna with a bottom-mounted
comm antenna from Spruce and it has at least 10x more
range. The wingtip antenna is a waste of time in my
limited experience with it. Maybe you can get better
results if you angle it to give more vertical
orientation but you still don't have much of a ground
plane out there on the end of the wing and the antenna
is always blocked by the fuselage for half of its
view.
Bob Newhall
Boulder, CO
RV7, 165hrs
Subject: RE: Wing Tip Comm Antennas
From: Ed Holyoke (bicyclop@pacbell.net)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke"
<bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Bob,
1. The marker beacon goes in the other wingtip
with the nav antenna
(if installed). Call Bob Archer for advice.
2. Get as much vertical orientation as you can.
I posted some pix
of my installation here:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bicyclop@pacbell.net.09.03.2005/
Not flying yet so I can't say how well it'll work.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
Of bob rundle
Subject: Wing Tip Comm Antennas
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle"
<bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
I'm installing the Bob Archer Comm antenna in wing tip
of RV7A. I have
searched the archives but remain with a couple
questions:
1. I also have a marker beacon antenna in this wing
tip. Will these
antennas
interfere with each other?
2. The instructions for the comm antenna indicate the
position as
vertically
in the top of the vertical stab. Do RV guys typically
install these
antenna
horizontally in the wing tip or try and make the
antenna at least
partically
vertical by installing it on the very outside of the
wingtip?
This is my second comm so I'd not as concerned about
great reception.
Thanks
BobR
__________________________________
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Someone who knows better than I (doesn't take much) can feel free to correct, but
I believe the big thing is imbalance between two connected control surfaces.
I.e.: Ailerons or elevators.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuselage/odds & ends
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV-List: rudder balance
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I don't understand this. All moveable surfaces are subject to flutter, no matter
what plane (no, not airplane) they're mounted in. Well, the flaps move but
are technically 'rigid' so we'll discount the flaps.
Since I'm not building .... yet, I don't have any info to peruse .....
but I'd expect the rudder to have balance requirements like the elevators. What
am I missing other than "that's the way Van designed it"???
Linn
do not archive
Phil Birkelbach wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>You don't have to balance the rudder like you do the elevators. Bolt
>on the weight they give you and go fly.
>
>Godspeed,
>
>Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>RV-7 N727WB - Phase I
>http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
>Paul Rice wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>>
>>Hi Listers,
>>
>>I've just been working with my rudder tips and decided to do a
>>preliminary balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would have to add
>>about 4.5 pounds of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to
>>what was supplied with the kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The
>>rod ends have been measured and are correct. To check it, I put some
>>long screws in the edge of my work bench and hung the rudder on top of
>>the screws with rods that went through the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Paul
>>RV8QB
>>Wings finished, empennage finished, almost.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
Actually, it is quite normal for control surfaces on certified planes to
not be fully balanced, but rather they have a specification that there
will be a certain weight at the rear of the surface when the hinge line is
suspended on knife edges. That weight will depend on the model, how it is
connected to the controls and so on, as well as the design dive
speed(which is the speed that has to be demonstrated above Vne with no
flutter.
Do Not Archive
Bob said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
>
>>I don't understand this. All moveable surfaces are subject to flutter,
>>no matter what plane (no, not airplane) they're mounted in. Well, the
>>flaps move but are technically 'rigid' so we'll discount the flaps.
>>Since I'm not building .... yet, I don't have any info to peruse .....
>>but I'd expect the rudder to have balance requirements like the
>>elevators. What am I missing other than "that's the way Van designed
>> it"???
>
> It is an anathema for a designer to add or design extra stuff that is not
> needed. In this case it adds weight, and complexity. Van designs the
> aircraft to be light, if you want a heavy aircraft there are plenty of
> certified planes to choose from.
>
> I would expect rudder flutter at some speed, but if for argument that
> speed
> is 330kts, why counterbalance if Vne is 182kts. For the RV6 I would
> assume
> that the flutter speed is well beyond the Vne speed. I once asked the
> engineers at Van about the elevator counterbalance, and I was told that
> the
> counterbalance structure was designed/required to withstand 25Gs. Wow!!
>
> I am not saying that I have it all right, but...there is more to this than
> just a simple answer.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
>
>Actually, it is quite normal for control surfaces on certified planes to
>not be fully balanced,
>
Both my Traumahawk and Grumman AA-1B have balance weights on the
ailerons, elevator and rudder. The Grumman uses the hinge line as a
balance point, but the Traumahawk's balance point for the ailerons
isn't. If I remember right, it's ahead of the hinge line and requires a
balancing fixture. They're still required to be balanced after painting
though. Some FAA inspectors look at the attachment screws/bolts etc. to
see if they're painted over .... as a sign that they weren't balanced
after painting. I know my sample is small, but I've never seen a cert'd
AC without counterbalance weights. Can you be more specific about
cert'd AC that don't have counterbalance weights?
Linn
> but rather they have a specification that there
>will be a certain weight at the rear of the surface when the hinge line is
>suspended on knife edges. That weight will depend on the model, how it is
>connected to the controls and so on, as well as the design dive
>speed(which is the speed that has to be demonstrated above Vne with no
>flutter.
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>Bob said:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>I don't understand this. All moveable surfaces are subject to flutter,
>>>no matter what plane (no, not airplane) they're mounted in. Well, the
>>>flaps move but are technically 'rigid' so we'll discount the flaps.
>>>Since I'm not building .... yet, I don't have any info to peruse .....
>>>but I'd expect the rudder to have balance requirements like the
>>>elevators. What am I missing other than "that's the way Van designed
>>>it"???
>>>
>>>
>>It is an anathema for a designer to add or design extra stuff that is not
>>needed. In this case it adds weight, and complexity. Van designs the
>>aircraft to be light, if you want a heavy aircraft there are plenty of
>>certified planes to choose from.
>>
>>I would expect rudder flutter at some speed, but if for argument that
>>speed
>>is 330kts, why counterbalance if Vne is 182kts. For the RV6 I would
>>assume
>>that the flutter speed is well beyond the Vne speed. I once asked the
>>engineers at Van about the elevator counterbalance, and I was told that
>>the
>>counterbalance structure was designed/required to withstand 25Gs. Wow!!
>>
>>I am not saying that I have it all right, but...there is more to this than
>>just a simple answer.
>>
>>Bob
>>RV6 NightFighter
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I did not say that they don't have balance weights. What I said is that
they aren't fully balanced. In other words when you place the hinge line
on knife edge the control surface will not stay level, but in most cases
will fall to the rear of the control surface, and in the maintenance
manual you will find a specification of how much force downward the rear
of the conrol is supposed to exert. Often a small amount, say 7-10 grams.
Yes, it is critical and yes, painting can change it and it must be
checked.
Do Not Archive
KM
A&P
linn walters said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
>>
>>Actually, it is quite normal for control surfaces on certified planes to
>>not be fully balanced,
>>
> Both my Traumahawk and Grumman AA-1B have balance weights on the
> ailerons, elevator and rudder. The Grumman uses the hinge line as a
> balance point, but the Traumahawk's balance point for the ailerons
> isn't. If I remember right, it's ahead of the hinge line and requires a
> balancing fixture. They're still required to be balanced after painting
> though. Some FAA inspectors look at the attachment screws/bolts etc. to
> see if they're painted over .... as a sign that they weren't balanced
> after painting. I know my sample is small, but I've never seen a cert'd
> AC without counterbalance weights. Can you be more specific about
> cert'd AC that don't have counterbalance weights?
> Linn
>
>> but rather they have a specification that there
>>will be a certain weight at the rear of the surface when the hinge line
>> is
>>suspended on knife edges. That weight will depend on the model, how it
>> is
>>connected to the controls and so on, as well as the design dive
>>speed(which is the speed that has to be demonstrated above Vne with no
>>flutter.
>>
>>Do Not Archive
>>
>>Bob said:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I don't understand this. All moveable surfaces are subject to flutter,
>>>>no matter what plane (no, not airplane) they're mounted in. Well, the
>>>>flaps move but are technically 'rigid' so we'll discount the flaps.
>>>>Since I'm not building .... yet, I don't have any info to peruse .....
>>>>but I'd expect the rudder to have balance requirements like the
>>>>elevators. What am I missing other than "that's the way Van designed
>>>>it"???
>>>>
>>>>
>>>It is an anathema for a designer to add or design extra stuff that is
>>> not
>>>needed. In this case it adds weight, and complexity. Van designs the
>>>aircraft to be light, if you want a heavy aircraft there are plenty of
>>>certified planes to choose from.
>>>
>>>I would expect rudder flutter at some speed, but if for argument that
>>>speed
>>>is 330kts, why counterbalance if Vne is 182kts. For the RV6 I would
>>>assume
>>>that the flutter speed is well beyond the Vne speed. I once asked the
>>>engineers at Van about the elevator counterbalance, and I was told that
>>>the
>>>counterbalance structure was designed/required to withstand 25Gs. Wow!!
>>>
>>>I am not saying that I have it all right, but...there is more to this
>>> than
>>>just a simple answer.
>>>
>>>Bob
>>>RV6 NightFighter
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Wing spar main Bolt nut size |
1.53 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I have an RV8 kit, builder number 81458. Yesterday I discovered that 7 of the
8 nuts for the NAS1307-50 main spar bolts required an 11/16 socket and one took
a 5/8 socket. The bolt heads themselves also took an 11/16 socket. Tom Green
of Van's said they never stocked a nut that size and they always used 5/8 nut
dimensions there. Since those nuts came out of their parts bag and otherwise
looked identical right down to the same nut height and nylon color insert it
is easy to see how a mixup somewhere could have happened.
But Tom said he's never heard of this before, ever. So I'm wondering if I'm really
the only one this happened to. Any other confessions from anyone this week?
Anyone else notice this along the way? I wonder if their supplier just made
a boo boo.
Seems to me that the slightly larger size nut, all other things equal, would be
"better". It's the only place I can remember where the nut dimension would be
different than the bolt head dimension. Seems wierd to do that by design on
the main spar bolts.
lucky
thx,
lucky
I have an RV8 kit, builder number 81458. Yesterday I discovered that 7 of the 8
nuts for theNAS1307-50 main sparbolts required an 11/16 socket and one took a
5/8 socket. The bolt heads themselves also took an 11/16 socket.Tom Green of
Van's said they never stocked a nut that size and they always used 5/8 nut dimensions
there. Since those nuts came out of their parts bag and otherwise looked
identical right down to the same nut height and nylon color insert it is easy
to see how a mixup somewhere could have happened.
But Tom said he's never heard of this before, ever. So I'm wondering if I'm really
the only one this happened to. Any other confessions from anyone this week?
Anyone else notice this along the way? I wonder if their supplier just made
a boo boo.
Seems to me that the slightly larger size nut, all other things equal, would be
"better". It's the only place I can remember where the nut dimension would be
different than the bolt head dimension. Seems wierd to do that by design on the
main spar bolts.
lucky
thx,
lucky
Message 13
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vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow builders,
How are you handling the aft side of the bolt that attaches the nosegear leg to
the engine mount as it contacts the firewall?
It looks like it will fit without cutting a hole and putting in a plug - but it
will be touching the firewall and placing some force against it.
If you've cut a hole and put in a plug - please provide details - hole size - where
you got the plug, how it's sealed, etc....
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR N06 - Firewall forward.
Message 14
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| Subject: | voltage regulator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett@objectsciences.com>
A set of 3 interrelated questions ...
I have a RV-6A with about 600 hours of flying time ...
In the last few weeks, I've noticed that the voltage drops to battery level
for several minutes, then goes back up to charging voltage. It's quite
intermittent.
1. I'm thinking a failing voltage regulator is a reasonable suspect? Now
that I'm writing this, I realize I should also re-check all the cables and
their fittings to make sure there's not some loose connection.
2. If you agree with #1, then I have Van's adjustable voltage regulator and
the Odyssey battery. Would it be just as well to buy the fixed voltage
regulator? When I bought the adjustable regulator, I hadn't realized how
exciting it would be to adjust the voltage, unless there is some way to do
so (that I haven't thought of) without the engine running.
3. Assuming the fixed voltage regulator works fine w/ the Odyssey battery,
does it have the same bolt pattern as the adjustable regulator? Since this
is a replacement, it would be great to use the same bolt holes.
Thanks for your help!
Randy
Message 15
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| Subject: | TruTrak with Navaid Servo |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Is anybody out there in list land using a TruTrak autopilot head with a
Navaid servo? Not really happy with the Navaid, thinking about
upgrading, and the Digitrak is cheaper than the EZ Pilot. Just wondering
if anybody has tried this combo and how it works.
Pax,
Ed
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
-snip-
>>>I don't understand this. All moveable surfaces are subject to
flutter, >>>no matter what plane (no, not airplane) they're mounted in.
-snip-
Actually it is the whole structure that is subject to flutter. Flutter
can happen even if there are no moveable surfaces, but moveable surfaces
add complexity to an already complex phenomenon. Flutter happens because
the aircraft structure is flexible and under the 'right' (or 'wrong'
depending on your point of view :-) conditions, the aerodynamic forces
are in resonance with a natural frequency of the structure, in bending
or torsion, or more often some combination. This frequency dependency
is one of the reasons why TAS is important, not IAS. Balancing movable
controls helps them not create or add loads which could start or
accentuate flutter. The 'excitement' that rudders can provide is
different than that for elevators and ailerons, so the balance
requirements are different as well. Some structures are stiff enough
for the airspeeds being flown that balancing the controls isn't
necessary.
Accurately predicting flutter is really tough, even with high tech, high
$$ analytical tools. Flight testing is the ultimate answer. Van's has
done the testing, so if you build and balance per their specs, and stay
below their published redline speed for your particular aircraft, you
should be OK (it says so in the fine print somewhere I'm sure :-)
Dennis Glaeser
RV7A Wings
(Aerospace Engineer)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: OIL COOLER FITTINGS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "c.ennis" <c.ennis@insightbb.com>
Try covering the cooler fins with duct tape...just to determine if that is
really the problem. If the temp goes up, remove tape until the range you
like is reached. Then cover the same area with a plate which can be swung
out of the way. Cheaper than fittings and infinently adjustable. Do not
archive.
Charlie Ennis
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re:Thoughts on Tool kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
Just as my $0.02, I bought a hammer dimpler and then a DRDT-2. I would
probably give the original hammer dimpler to anyone who would come pick it up.
Way inferior.
I have purchased tools from a lot of different places. I have received the
best service from Cleaveland and Avery. I pretty much get everything from
them unless it is really esoteric.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Wings
Do Not Archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 |
1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com 1.0000 -4.4912
I'd vote to cut the hole now, while it's easy. I didn't, and have often wished
I had. With my ancient FAB design, I have to drop the gear leg to access the
air filter for cleaning, and wrestling that nut back on is about 80% of the whole
dang job.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph E. Capen <recapen@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000
1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow builders,
How are you handling the aft side of the bolt that attaches the nosegear leg to
the engine mount as it contacts the firewall?
It looks like it will fit without cutting a hole and putting in a plug - but it
will be touching the firewall and placing some force against it.
If you've cut a hole and put in a plug - please provide details - hole size -
where you got the plug, how it's sealed, etc....
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR N06 - Firewall forward.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 |
1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 11/03 4:40, sportav8r@aol.com.1.0000.-4.4912 wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com 1.0000 -4.4912
>
> I'd vote to cut the hole now, while it's easy. I didn't, and have often wished
I had. With my ancient FAB design, I have to drop the gear leg to access
the air filter for cleaning, and wrestling that nut back on is about 80% of the
whole dang job.
The location on the plans to drill the hole are almost perfect
so drill the "required" hole per plans.
After the nosegear is mounted and bolted in (you did use an
all metal nut, right?) [no nylock please] then get one of those
stainless hole plugs from Home Depot and put it in with a
good dab of pro-seal.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 3 Nov 2005, at 16:20, Glaeser, Dennis A wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A"
> <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
>
> -snip-
>
>>>> I don't understand this. All moveable surfaces are subject to
>>>>
> flutter, >>>no matter what plane (no, not airplane) they're mounted
> in.
> -snip-
>
> Actually it is the whole structure that is subject to flutter.
> Flutter
> can happen even if there are no moveable surfaces, but moveable
> surfaces
> add complexity to an already complex phenomenon. Flutter happens
> because
> the aircraft structure is flexible and under the 'right' (or 'wrong'
> depending on your point of view :-) conditions, the aerodynamic forces
> are in resonance with a natural frequency of the structure, in bending
> or torsion, or more often some combination. This frequency dependency
> is one of the reasons why TAS is important, not IAS. Balancing movable
> controls helps them not create or add loads which could start or
> accentuate flutter. The 'excitement' that rudders can provide is
> different than that for elevators and ailerons, so the balance
> requirements are different as well. Some structures are stiff enough
> for the airspeeds being flown that balancing the controls isn't
> necessary.
>
> Accurately predicting flutter is really tough, even with high tech,
> high
> $$ analytical tools. Flight testing is the ultimate answer. Van's has
> done the testing, so if you build and balance per their specs, and
> stay
> below their published redline speed for your particular aircraft, you
> should be OK (it says so in the fine print somewhere I'm sure :-)
And the service history suggests that none of the RV designs has a
flutter problem. There are thousands of RVs flying, and I have never
heard of a flutter related accident or incident. You can bet that
many RVs have been quite a bit above the recommended VNEs due to
pilot screwups during aerobatic manoeuvres. I know of one RV-8 that
has been accidentally flown at many tens of knots above the
recommended VNE, due to a momentary pilot lapse. He had added
additional balance weight to the ailerons (because he thought it was
a good idea), but I believe the rudder balance weight was as designed
by Van's.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 |
1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 11/03 5:21, Walter Tondu wrote:
> all metal nut, right?) [no nylock please] then get one of those
That should read all metal lock-nut.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
Message 23
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| Subject: | Nosegear to engine mount attach bolt 6A INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 |
1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
In my situation, the bolt barely touched the firewall, distorting it slightly.
Instead of cutting a clearance hole in the firewall per plans and then plugging
it, I simply shaved of some of the threads off the bolt at roughly a 45 degree
angle to just clear the firewall with the bolt threads facing it a specific
orientation and still have adequate thread protrusion with the nut attached.
A recent visual inspection confirmed that to date, the bolt has yet to make
contact with the firewall and everything appears to be just fine.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 94 hours
Message 24
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| Subject: | RE-OIL COOLER FITTING |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Thanks to all for the good advices.
Mark, I like your setup but my oil cooler in mounted behind the # 4 cylinder
so I don't have the room. I might dismantle the baffles and try to set up
some kind of door that I can open at will.
"See: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry
<http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5001>
&log_id=5001
The butterfly closes off the airflow very well, but I'd suspect a simple
plate covering the INLET face of the cooler would achieve the same thing.
Might
be worth a try...
Mark
Pat & Larry
I thought about plugging the front of the cooler but I
don't have too much room to work with, I'll try again next time I'm at the
hangar as it's the quickest solution..
James
I installed a new Vernatherm valve last spring and tested it prior
to installation; it did improve the temp a little bit but not enough.
I received a few ideas from Mahlon Russell at Mattituck and will check them
out as soon as I can.
If you guys have any more ideas or pictures of a door system for your oil
cooler, feel free to send them my way, I will appreciate that.
Thanks
Bruno Dionne
Rv4@videotron.ca
Do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: rudder balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
If you plan on a lot of knife edge flight, you should
balance the rudder from a horizontal axis orientation.
Balancing the elevators counters the effect of gravity
on them reducing flutter. On the rudder, the weight
is just mass that is harder to move, hence a dampening
effect.
Dave
--- linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters
> <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> I don't understand this. All moveable surfaces are
> subject to flutter,
> no matter what plane (no, not airplane) they're
> mounted in. Well, the
> flaps move but are technically 'rigid' so we'll
> discount the flaps.
> Since I'm not building .... yet, I don't have any
> info to peruse .....
> but I'd expect the rudder to have balance
> requirements like the
> elevators. What am I missing other than "that's the
> way Van designed it"???
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>
> Phil Birkelbach wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach
> <phil@petrasoft.net>
> >
> >You don't have to balance the rudder like you do
> the elevators. Bolt on
> >the weight they give you and go fly.
> >
> >Godspeed,
> >
> >Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> >RV-7 N727WB - Phase I
> >http://www.myrv7.com
> >
> >
> >Paul Rice wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice"
> <rice737@msn.com>
> >>
> >>Hi Listers,
> >>
> >>I've just been working with my rudder tips and
> decided to do a preliminary
> >>balance of the rudder. It seems as if I would
> have to add about 4.5 pounds
> >>of lead to the counterbalance horn in addition to
> what was supplied with the
> >>kit. I just doesn't seem right to me. The rod
> ends have been measured and
> >>are correct. To check it, I put some long screws
> in the edge of my work
> >>bench and hung the rudder on top of the screws
> with rods that went through
> >>the rod ends. Any ideas? Is this normal?
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>Paul
> >>RV8QB
> >>Wings finished, empennage finished, almost.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: RE-OIL COOLER FITTING |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
Bruno wrote:
>-
>Mark, I like your setup but my oil cooler in mounted behind the # 4 cylinder
>so I don't have the room. I might dismantle the baffles and try to set up
>some kind of door that I can open at will.
>
>
Bruno, I put an adjustable door in front of my oil cooler with a button
lock control and it worked very well on my six. I would suggest some
kind of spring so that if the door installation fails that it fails in
the wide open mode.
I started out with duct tape over the cooler. On several occasions,
after I reached altititude, the temps were warmer and the oil temps
started to go up. So, I'd land and remove the tape. That only happened
twice before I replaced the "Red Green" method with the door and control.
Bob Skinner (former RV builder)
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Blast tubes and heat flange |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
A couple last baffle questions:
Fitting and trimming are complete and I'm doing deburring and clean up on
the parts but..... I still need to install alternator and mag blast tubes
and heater air intake flange.
Blast tubes.....is everybody using the little flexible plastic conduit Van's
supplies in the FWF kit and just drilling a hole in the thin baffle metal
small enough to capture the tube (no flange riveted to the baffle)? I've
seen some neat little aluminum flanges that some folks have riveted to the
baffle with a nice little rigid aluminum tube attachd to the back of the
flange that directs the air onto the mags. Are these commercially available
or does someone on the list sell them? I can't find them in A/C Spruce or
Wicks.
The aluminum (heater intake) scat tube flange that's fastened to the bottom
of the left side intake baffle floor. I'm probably being anal but so be
it.....Do you install this flange at the very front of the intake floor
(that's where it looks like the instructions show to put it but the floor is
very shallow there and since its so close to the cooling air intakes I
wonder if the airflow into the heat duct scat tube would be at a very low
pressure)? Would it be better (ie more airflow into the heater scat tube)
if the scat tube flange were mounted higher up on the steeper bend of the
baffle floor (it seems to me that the more vertical orientation of this
flange at that point would force more air in to the system but don't know if
there are any gotchas). Any suggestions? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Lots of work in those baffles!!!
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: voltage regulator? |
--> RV-List message posted by: G McNutt <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Randy Garrett wrote:
>I have a RV-6A with about 600 hours of flying time ...
>
>In the last few weeks, I've noticed that the voltage drops to battery level
>for several minutes, then goes back up to charging voltage. It's quite
>intermittent.
>
>
snip ---
When I bought the adjustable regulator, I hadn't realized how
>exciting it would be to adjust the voltage, unless there is some way to do
>so (that I haven't thought of) without the engine running.
>
>
>
Hi Randy
May be too late for you but this may help others.
To adjust voltage with engine running, upper cowl removed and safety
pilot in seat.
The Vans adjustable regulator needs to be mounted on upper inside of the
firewall. The adjustment screw is on the back side of the unit so when
installing drill a small hole through firewall behind regulator adjust
screw for a small adjustment screwdriver. The hole is covered with foil
tape and labeled to show which direction to turn to increase/decrease
voltage.
George in Langley BC
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