Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:07 AM - Re: Jack Norris Propeller book version=3.0.3 (John Huft)
2. 07:22 AM - Re: Any ideas for a heat diffuser on an old 6 (Gerald Richardson)
3. 07:50 AM - Re: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? (Evan and Megan Johnson)
4. 07:53 AM - Tinted canopies (Glen Matejcek)
5. 08:58 AM - Re: Tinted canopies ()
6. 09:28 AM - Nipple on spider too tight (George Inman)
7. 09:31 AM - Re: Tinted canopies (Chuck Jensen)
8. 09:55 AM - [ Arthur P. Loring, Jr ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
9. 11:19 AM - Re: Nipple on spider too tight (Chuck)
10. 11:39 AM - Wheel/tire balancing device picture (Ron Lee)
11. 11:52 AM - Re: Nipple on spider too tight (linn walters)
12. 11:57 AM - Ignitions? (Fly n Low)
13. 12:12 PM - Re: High Voltage Problem ()
14. 12:18 PM - Re: Ignitions? (James Clark)
15. 12:23 PM - Re: Ignitions? (Kyle Boatright)
16. 12:26 PM - Slider tip-forward canopy madification (Greg Grigson)
17. 12:36 PM - Re: Tinted canopies (james frierson)
18. 12:46 PM - Re: Tinted canopies (Chuck Jensen)
19. 12:48 PM - Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) ()
20. 01:22 PM - Re: Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) (Mickey Coggins)
21. 02:45 PM - Re: Slider tip-forward canopy madification (Ed Holyoke)
22. 02:45 PM - Re: Ignitions? (Doug Weiler)
23. 02:47 PM - Re: Ignitions? (Kevin Horton)
24. 03:33 PM - Re: Slider tip-forward canopy modification (James H Nelson)
25. 03:35 PM - Re: Ignitions? (Kelly McMullen)
26. 05:24 PM - Re: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? (Warren Gretz)
27. 07:35 PM - ignition wiring (sarg314)
28. 08:04 PM - Re: ignition wiring (Ron Lee)
29. 08:37 PM - Re: Re: High Voltage Problem (J D Newsum)
30. 08:56 PM - When to buy engine? (Matt Johnson)
31. 09:14 PM - Re: Re: High Voltage Problem (Jerry Springer)
32. 09:52 PM - Re: ignition wiring (Dave Nellis)
33. 11:10 PM - Looking for good used ANR headset (Rocket Shop)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Jack Norris Propeller book version=3.0.3 |
version=3.0.3
--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
Oh well. Now I'm really sorry I didn't make it to his seminar.
John
S Hamer wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "S Hamer" <s.hamer@verizon.net>
>
>John,
>
>Just as a point of reference, I gave Jack my $12.00 for his book at one of
>the Luscombe fly-ins at Columbia Ca. in either '95 or '96, not sure which
>year. It was worth the money just to listen to him talk about his career.
>The book will be a bonus if he ever finishes it.
>
>Steve Hamer
>Apple Valley
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Huft" <rv8@lazy8.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Jack Norris Propeller book version=3.0.3
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
>>
>>Randy
>>
>>At Oshkosh, I was hanging around the plane, and Jack came by,
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Any ideas for a heat diffuser on an old 6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerald Richardson <gerric@shaw.ca>
Curt could you email me a photo also at gerric@shaw.ca. Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Curt Reimer
Subject: Re: RV-List: Any ideas for a heat diffuser on an old 6
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
> The cold is coming and Im tired of having my passenger's toes nice and
> toasty while Im freezing. Has anyone come > up with an easy solution
to
> mix the air exiting the firewall from one side? Im thinking of just
> riveting a thin piece of al > and bending it to some angle. Not sure
how
> effective it will be though.
I made a heat distribution manifold out of fibreglass, using the lost
foam
method. I glued styrofoam blocks (blue SM) together using hot glue to
get
the rough shape and then carved and sanded until I had a mock-up duct
that
nicely fitted in place without interfering with the rudder pedals. I
then
covered the foam with several layers of fibreglass and epoxy. When hard,
I
poured laquer thinner into a hole at one end and dissolved out the foam,
leaving a hollow duct. I cut some air exit holes at strategic intervals
and
installed it. It works great and evenly distributes the heat what heat
is
available. I only wish there were more of it.
I'll send a photo to your email.
Curt
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
No heated tube yet. I kind of put my prototype on the back burner as it
seems like there are a few new ones coming out already. I am just having a
cessna style tube machined and was planning on using a cessna heating
element. Simple and proven. The target price is $400 with the tube, mast and
all of the hardware. A nice set of hardware at a reasonable price, but I
need to know there would be demand before spending 10 thousand dollars or
so. I thought I would see what the new items looked like first.
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
>
> The pitot on your website is non-heated. Do you have a heated version that
> I'm missing?
>
> Doug Fischer
> RV-9A
> Jenison, MI
> do not archive
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >
> > You could buy mine.....they are powdercoated aluminum :)
> > Evan Johnson
> > www.evansaviationproducts.com
> > (530)247-0375
> > (530)351-1776 cell
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> > <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Speaking of the Gretz mount, mine is rusting after only a year, stored
> > > indoors!!
> > >
> > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> > > RV-6A, N915JD
> > > 235 hours
> > > Chicago/Louisville
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
> > > To: "RV-9 Matronics List" <rv9-list@matronics.com>; "RV Matronics
List"
> > > <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot?
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
> <dfischer@iserv.net>
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone know a source for vacuum-metalizing for retail
customers?
> I
> > > > was thinking that may be a safe way to put a chrome finish on the
> black
> > > > plastic Gretz heated pitot to match the mount. I think the old
chrome
> > > > dip-in-chemicals route used to plate metal would damage the pitot.
> > > >
> > > > Doug Fischer
> > > > RV-9A Wings
> > > > Jenison, MI
> > > >
> > > > Do not archive
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hey all-
I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm
concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the
archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been
there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations?
Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all
significant in the real world? Would you do it again?
Thanks in advance-
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tinted canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Glen,
You might want to discuss purchasing a "titanium" tinted canopy from Todd. I've
discussed this option with him. Titanium tinted plexi is bronze in color, like
sun glasses tinted that color. Titanium tint blocks as much heat and UV radiation
as the smoke tint, but lets more light in. It is much better for night
ops.
Charlie Kuss
---- Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Hey all-
>
> I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm
> concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the
> archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been
> there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations?
> Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all
> significant in the real world? Would you do it again?
>
> Thanks in advance-
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Nipple on spider too tight |
1.67 SARE_ADLTSUB2 Contains possible adult words
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
I need to change the position of the nipple
on the spider so I can run the fuel hose by a shorter route.
I cannot losen the nipple.It is just too tight.
Do they use some locking compound on these?
How do I loosen it?
George Inman
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Glen,
I have fairly dark tinted windows in a Velocity. Night flying is not a
particular problem as the contrast between lights and dark background is
still evident, so landmark recognition is still good. If there is a
downside to the tinted windows, it is taxing at night. A robust
landing/taxi light helps visibility...much better than a white cane.
This is the only area were you'll notice a negative difference with
tinted windows (IMHO).
Now, the benefits of the tint...and they are many. Primary among them
is the heat gain, when parked outside during the summer, is sharply
reduced and the light infiltration during flight is much more
manageable, though in-your-face sunlight is still intolerable and
requires some kind of blockage. These advantages are particularly
important for the big green house of the RV. Would I go with the tint
again? Absolutely. The drawbacks are minor compared to the advantages.
I'm unfamiliar with titanium tinted windows but with the right color
scheme, it could be way into the cool-zone.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek
Subject: RV-List: Tinted canopies
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hey all-
I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm
concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the
archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been
there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations?
Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all
significant in the real world? Would you do it again?
Thanks in advance-
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | [ Arthur P. Loring, Jr ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Arthur P. Loring, Jr <loringsrv8@comcast.net>
Lists: RV-List,RV8-List
Subject: RV-8 Instrument Panel Access
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/loringsrv8@comcast.net.11.06.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Nipple on spider too tight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
Okay guys & gals... Now you all have gone and got me in trouble with my Misses.
When she saw the subject
"Nipple on spider too tight"
she said: "So you're going to Porn sites now huh ?"
Great, just great. She'll probably tell her Divirce Attorney 'bout this too.
:-)
George Inman <ghinman@mts.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman"
I need to change the position of the nipple
on the spider so I can run the fuel hose by a shorter route.
I cannot losen the nipple.It is just too tight.
Do they use some locking compound on these?
How do I loosen it?
George Inman
---------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Wheel/tire balancing device picture |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
The rod-like device you see between the two metal plates
goes in the axle area. It does not seem to have any internal
bearings. Check with your local mechanic for such a device.
I am not sure how you would do it without this device.
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/BalancingDevice.jpg
Ron Lee
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Nipple on spider too tight |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
George Inman wrote:
Did you talk to the spider about this? This sounds like an off-shore
medical procedure. Make sure you get waivers from the spider to CYA. ;-)
>I cannot losen the nipple.It is just too tight.
>
Obviously you're working outside your chosen field of knowledge. Best
left to a professional. :-[
>Do they use some locking compound on these?
>
ON A NIPPLE???? :-[ Hmmm. haven't a clue.
>How do I loosen it?
>
Good question. I don't know, but just couldn't resist this answer after
my wife read the subject line! :-D
Linn
do not archive ..... for obvious reasons!
>
>George Inman
>
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Hello all;
I have an IO-360-A1A currently with Bendix Mags and "Shower of Sparks"
When this engine was installed in an Acrosport II I had great difficulty
starting it. I finally did develop a process, but it was always a pain in
the .....
I am not sure if the problem was with the "Shower of Sparks" unit or with
the Mags. The Right Mag was overhauled and that did not make any difference.
Now I must decide whether to keep this ignition or to switch to ElectroAir
Electronic Ignition. I actually have both at this time. I have also
considered selling both and going to Slick Mags. I have also considered just
running one of the Bendix Mags and one of the ElectoAir Electronic
Ignitions.
While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple of months
ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of electronic
ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more.
Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to make it
now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues making this
a pressing decision.
What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice.
Bud Silvers
RV-8 in progress.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Dear Steve:
>From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
>Subject: RV-List: High Voltage Problem
>
>After start-up, with the alternator field on or off, the voltage climbed very
>high to over 18 volts. I shut down the engine and restarted and watched again
>as the voltage slowly(1 Min.) rose to 18+ volts. This time I put a load on the
>system with pitot heat, landing lights and strobes and the voltage dropped and
>stayed at about 12.5.It appears that with a load, all looks normal but with no
>load it climbs even with the Alt. field off.
First Steve, your alternator is screwed up. Get it out of there. There is nothing
wrong with
the model, brand. Either the rebuilder installed a faulty part or you damaged it
by turning
it ON/OFF under load and by using a weak battery.
18 volts indicates the internal voltage regulator is regulating to a higher voltage.
Also
voltage drop under load is also not normal. You should remove and send it back.
It seems
to hit or miss with the brand of rebuilds Van sells. This is the second time this
exact thing
has happened. I also think you may have caused the damage by the way you operated
it.
I'll explain.
This is the second time I have heard of this exact condition with a Van ND alternator.
HOWEVER I think you are partially to blame Buddy. The other case involved a RV'er
who also liked to turn the alternator ON after starting and turned it OFF while
the engine
was still running, under load. TURNING IT ON AN OFF UNDER LOAD IS BAD. Don't do
that, ever. DO NOT SWITCH YOUR ND ALTERNATORS ON AND OFF UNDER LOAD.
DON'T DO IT. THERE IS NO REASON TO DO IT. It was not designed that way and is
abrupt at best. Think of it. You are making a load dump and surge in the alternator.
Also there is a misconception, ND alternators IGN lead is a FIELD wire. IT IS
NOT A FIELD WIRE. You do not have a FIELD wire to turn off or on. The IGN wire
that comes out of the regulator is the power for the regulator. REMEMBER these
are
for cars. Think about how the alternator is wired in the car and operates. In a
car you
do not shut the alternator ON and OFF while it is spinning!!!!! Turn it on before
engine start
and leave it on until the engine is shut down. The IGN wire is NOT meant to control
the alternator. It is the come alive wire and go to sleep wire.
Also speaking of wiring the alternator, you should wire it as it was designed
for, aka car. Hook up the warning light. If you had it hooked up, it would be on,
since it indicates charge and internal faults. There is no reason not to hook
the light up. Also if
you have remote voltage sense (as the alternator sold by Van does) you should run
that
direct to the battery. You can tie it to the IGN wire, but that is not how it was
designed.
In my opinion you should wire it just like it was in the auto application is was
meant for.
Turning the IGN wire power ON or OFF may not help if you have a problem, as you
have seen. So if you do have a problem how do you isolate the alternator? THE ONLY
WAY YOU CAN BE SURE TO CONTROL AN ALTERNATOR WITH I-VR, IS PUT A
CIRCUT BREAKER IN THE PANEL ON THE ALTERNATOR OUT PUT LEAD (B-LEAD)
THAT YOU CAN PULL MANUALLY. YOU MAY NEVER NEED TO PULL THE CB. PULL
THE CB IF THERE IS AN ALTERNATOR FAILURE. DO NOT USE AN OV MODULE OR CROW BAR WITH
I-VR ND ALTERNATORS OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THEM. DO NOT INSTALL A OV CROW BAR
ON THIS ALTERNATOR.
Some like to use fuses on the B-lead under the cowl. That is nice but you don't
have
absolute control and can't assume the IGN wire will shut the alterantor down .
The idea
of running the B-lead into the cockpit will make noise, is way over blown. Back
in the old
days regulators where mechanical and had relays that where electrically noisy.
Modern
I-VR alternators like the ND will not produce any more noise in the system because
you
run it to a CB in the panel, as some suggest.
However whatever the reason your alternator failed, you damaged it by turning it
on/off under load, the weak battery or the part was just bad, take it out and
send it back. It is definitely not operating properly.
>The battery is an Odyssey and is about three years old ( I wanted it on hand
>during the building of the electrical system) and not holding a charge well.
>could this be the culprit?
Yes, GET THAT OUT OF THERE. Yes a weak battery is hard on alternators and the
battery is your safety buffer to alternator problems. A strong battery will absorb
alternator problems. There is no reason to fly with a weak battery.
>The Alternator is a 60 amp. from Van's. Could it be a regulator gone bad within
>it? I don't see how with the field switched off but electrons are a big mystery
>to me.
Not all ND alternators are ND alterantors. Rebuilders use aftermarket non-OEM parts.
Also you don't know what was replaced or what was re-used. Not all rebuilders are
the
same and not all aftermarket parts are the same. There are at least 2 or 3 different
part manufactures (China) making parts for alternators. Whether they are
as good as OEM
original ND parts, made in Japan, is open to debate.
As I said this is only the *come alive* power. Once the alternator is running it
gets power thru the battery and B-lead. Some ND alternators will not shut down
with the IGN wire de-energize after the unit is spinning. I do not have this model
to
test. However like the previous RV'er one symptom of the condition was the IGN
wire would not shut the alternator down. To repeat the IGN wire function is not
to
turn the alternator ON or OFF under load. Think of it as the wake up signal and
the
go to sleep signal.
I Love the ND alternator but the company that Van buys his rebuild units are a
little
suspect. You could go down to Pep Boys and buy the same unit (LASTER #14684)
for less than what Van sells it for. The unit is found on the following:
(1988-87) Chevrolet Sprint 1.0L
(1995-86) Suzuki Samurai 1.3L
(1989) Suzuki Sidekick 1.3L
You can also get them all new made from aftermarket parts. However the auto stores
usually carry only rebuilds. You have to go thru an auto electrical specialty shop
to order new units . I may be able to get you a NEW one at discount, less than
what
Van sells rebuilt units for, but they are back ordered right now.
>Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.
>Steve Struyk RV-8, N842S St. Charles, MO
Take it out, send it back and wait. If you are in a hurry you can go to Pep Boys
and buy one. I found that Pep Boys sells a good brand of rebuilds. The good part
is it will have a warranty and be cheaper than what Van sells them for.
If you can wait, I can see about getting a new unit for you. Not all rebuild companies
are the same. I would like to know who rebuilds the alternators Van sells. There
are
about 3 major companies that rebuild alternators. Several companies manufacture
after market components for ND alternators. Ideal would be get an all NEW ND
alternator with all new OEM genuine ND parts. Since the unit Van sells is for an
application no longer in production, so the we are stuck with junkyard, rebuilt
or NEW
from aftermarket parts on this particular model.
You can get them all new made from aftermarket parts. I may be able to get you
a NEW one at discount, but they are back ordered right now. IT may take a few
weeks to get one. The cost will be way less than $200 and that is NEW not
rebuilt. Let me know.
>So very close to first flight!
Don't rush it, don't fly with this alternator. George
---------------------------------
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: James Clark <jclarkmail@gmail.com>
We have the ElectroAir unit (from Jeff Rose) on our RV6 (O-320, 160 HP)
along with one mag and it is definitely an improvement over the mag. Better
starting. SMoother running.No drop in RPM when the mag is turned off (it is
providing the sparks so much better than a mag that the mag is not adding
anything).
You get most of the "bang" from having the first eletronic ignition. Have a
mag running along as "backup" is good belt and suspenders in my book. Also
if the mag is an impulse mag you can start and run even if the old battery
is getting a bit low (as in dies during flight).
I am building another RV and am trying the Lightspeed Plasma II+ in it.
If I were start from zero I would look into the E-Mag and P-Mag.
Give the scenario you mentioned, you already have the ElectroAir, I would
DEFINITELY put one of the units in along with one mag.
I would keep the second unit as a "spare" as Jeff said that he is no longer
selling the units BUT he still SUPPORTS the units in the field. I suspect
though that the units will outlast the engine on the plane and by the time
you need a new engine there will be other proven options.
James
On 11/6/05, Fly n Low <flynlow@usaviator.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
> Hello all;
>
> I have an IO-360-A1A currently with Bendix Mags and "Shower of Sparks"
>
> When this engine was installed in an Acrosport II I had great difficulty
> starting it. I finally did develop a process, but it was always a pain in
> the .....
>
> I am not sure if the problem was with the "Shower of Sparks" unit or with
> the Mags. The Right Mag was overhauled and that did not make any
> difference.
>
> Now I must decide whether to keep this ignition or to switch to ElectroAir
> Electronic Ignition. I actually have both at this time. I have also
> considered selling both and going to Slick Mags. I have also considered
> just
> running one of the Bendix Mags and one of the ElectoAir Electronic
> Ignitions.
>
> While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple of
> months
> ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of electronic
> ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more.
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to make it
> now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues making
> this
> a pressing decision.
>
> What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice.
>
> Bud Silvers
> RV-8 in progress.
>
>
> ,
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james@nextupventures.com .
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fly n Low" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Subject: RV-List: Ignitions?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
<snip>
>
> What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice.
>
> Bud Silvers
> RV-8 in progress.
>
I have one Electroair and one standard mag on my RV-6's O-320. I've been
satisfied by the performance of the combination, and like the idea of having
a mag back-up to the electronic ignition.
My only concern about non-standard ignition systsems is the thin support
network. If my mag goes south at any airport with an A&P or AI, he has a
parts source and can get parts in 24 hours, putting me back in the air in a
couple of days maximum. Many shops stock the common mag repair parts, so
same day service is possible. This probably isn't the case with the
Electroair or any other limited volume ignition system.
KB
Message 16
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| Subject: | Slider tip-forward canopy madification |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Looking for any drawings, photos, info, etc. on how the slider tip-forward mod
that some clever guys have made is constructed. Seems like a great solution
to allow easy acess to the -6/7/9 baggage area.
Aloha and mahalo.
Greg
N-79PT (still in test flight phase)
---------------------------------
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
A buddy of mine has a 4 with a custom made sliding canopy. He used the
original canopy for the sliding part but used some tinted Plexiglas for the
wind screen. It didn't look to dark but he found that flying at night was a
problem but the main problem was flying during the day with some WX around.
It was hard to see it any precipitation directly in front of the plane. He
changed it to clear.
Scott
>From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tinted canopies
>Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 12:29:19 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>
>Glen,
>
>I have fairly dark tinted windows in a Velocity. Night flying is not a
>particular problem as the contrast between lights and dark background is
>still evident, so landmark recognition is still good. If there is a
>downside to the tinted windows, it is taxing at night. A robust
>landing/taxi light helps visibility...much better than a white cane.
>This is the only area were you'll notice a negative difference with
>tinted windows (IMHO).
>
>Now, the benefits of the tint...and they are many. Primary among them
>is the heat gain, when parked outside during the summer, is sharply
>reduced and the light infiltration during flight is much more
>manageable, though in-your-face sunlight is still intolerable and
>requires some kind of blockage. These advantages are particularly
>important for the big green house of the RV. Would I go with the tint
>again? Absolutely. The drawbacks are minor compared to the advantages.
>
>I'm unfamiliar with titanium tinted windows but with the right color
>scheme, it could be way into the cool-zone.
>
>Chuck
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Tinted canopies
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
>
>Hey all-
>
>I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm
>concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the
>archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been
>there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations?
>Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all
>significant in the real world? Would you do it again?
>
>Thanks in advance-
>
>
>Glen Matejcek
>aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Scott,
That's an interesting observation. I was going to point out in my
earlier post that a minor benefit of the tinted windscreen was it seem
to reduce washout from sun glare/diffusion and made discerning inflight
weather a little better.
All in the eye of the beholder.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of james frierson
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tinted canopies
--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
A buddy of mine has a 4 with a custom made sliding canopy. He used the
original canopy for the sliding part but used some tinted Plexiglas for
the
wind screen. It didn't look to dark but he found that flying at night
was a
problem but the main problem was flying during the day with some WX
around.
It was hard to see it any precipitation directly in front of the plane.
He
changed it to clear.
Scott
>From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tinted canopies
>Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 12:29:19 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>
>Glen,
>
>I have fairly dark tinted windows in a Velocity. Night flying is not a
>particular problem as the contrast between lights and dark background
is
>still evident, so landmark recognition is still good. If there is a
>downside to the tinted windows, it is taxing at night. A robust
>landing/taxi light helps visibility...much better than a white cane.
>This is the only area were you'll notice a negative difference with
>tinted windows (IMHO).
>
>Now, the benefits of the tint...and they are many. Primary among them
>is the heat gain, when parked outside during the summer, is sharply
>reduced and the light infiltration during flight is much more
>manageable, though in-your-face sunlight is still intolerable and
>requires some kind of blockage. These advantages are particularly
>important for the big green house of the RV. Would I go with the tint
>again? Absolutely. The drawbacks are minor compared to the
advantages.
>
>I'm unfamiliar with titanium tinted windows but with the right color
>scheme, it could be way into the cool-zone.
>
>Chuck
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Tinted canopies
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek"
<aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
>
>Hey all-
>
>I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm
>concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the
>archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been
>there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations?
>Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all
>significant in the real world? Would you do it again?
>
>Thanks in advance-
>
>
>Glen Matejcek
>aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Dear John and jdoody727:
>From: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: High Voltage Problem
>Steve, I assume the lower voltage with load was at low RPM? If so, it
>sounds like the field is shorted to +12...could be a bad regulator, or
>bad wiring. A weak battery wouldn't act like that.
>
>John
John:
This is common miss understanding. The I-VR ND alternator does not have a field
wire, or at least a field wire you can see. The IGN wire is the regulators power
on/off
lead. The control of the field (to ground) is by a field control transistor and
is controlled
by the internal voltage regulator. Once running the field and regulator have power
thru the
B-lead. Now the IGN wire can command the field to shut down thru the IGN wire
(come alive/sleep wire), but in Steve's case the IGN wire would not shut the alternator
down once running. This was part of the symptom of this failure.
If you did have direct access to the field and could open the field wire, you
would shut
the alternator down. However the field wire is behind the I-VR and inside the alternator,
so we don't have direct access to it. Is this a problem? Well no and YOU DON'T
need
an OV module to protect an I-VR alternator. (below)
You are correct that most external regulators vary a +12 volt field wire to control
output
(type "B"), but most internal VR's are different. The field wire is internal and
the rotor (field)
always has +12 volts on it (from the B-lead/battery). It is actually an "A" type
regulator
that controls to ground (negative side of the rotor or field).
So I guess you are saying the rotor is shorted to ground. If this was the case
it would go
to full output, which is way over 18 volts. This has never happened, but some stories
and rumors have reported it happening. However they are stories with no
proof or facts. For this to happen internally would be a very rare scenario.
There are also internal protections for this
built into the IC voltage regulator. George
>From: jdoody727@comcast.net
>Subject: Re: RV-List: High Voltage Problem>
>
>Dear Steve,
>
>Could very well be the voltage regulator. Do you have over voltage protection
>installed? B&C sells a fairly inexpensive ( about $45) over voltage unit.
>I wish it was installed when my regulator went. At least it's there now.
First this is a big big misconception. ND alternators DO have OV protection. In
fact
there are no real cases of extreme OV in ND alternators. Now +18 volts is not good,
but
a true OV condition (field short) would produce very high voltage , well past 18
volts. In
Steve's case it is a partial failure and the regulator is not stable, but a true
OV is way
extreme. For a condition like this to occur in a ND alternator would require a
very rare
unlikely failure. Also you would see signs of impending failure, giving time to
shut the
B-lead down manually (pull the CB).
If you read the technical data supplied with internally voltage regulated alternators,
I-VR,
tell you to NOT to ground or arc the B-lead (out put). Also it warns not to run
with out the battery connected to the battery. With the crow bar you install
a relay in series with the
output. In theory the relay opens when a OV is detected. First you short the B-lead
than
abruptly cut it off from the battery. ALL BAD.
The problem is OV modules have faults trips (often) and damage alternators.
OV module you speak of is the "Crow Bar". This part is connected to a CB and a
relay. VAN DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS AND IT VOIDS THE WARREN TY. All the
parts would cost about $100 total. The Relay goes on the alternators out put line
(B-lead). When crow bar sees a high voltage it SHORTS the CB and B-lead to ground,
shorting the alternator to ground until the CB pops. The CB opens, taking power
away form the normally open b-lead relay. When the relay opens you will have a
large
internal arc inside the relay. All this grounding and arcing will cause the ND
alternator
to be damage. This is not a normal thing a good alternator should see.
Crow bar can have faults trips. Some transient action like landing lights can cause
a nuisance trip. If this happens while a good alternator is turning, making power
it will fry it. Remember the crow bar is SHORTING DIRECT TO GROUND. This is
harsh.
Many do have the OV module on their I-VR ND alternator but you are adding more
weight, parts, cost and possible failure points. ND alternators are VERY safe
and reliable.
OK so the question is, your ND alternator has a failure and is not regulating voltage
normally. What do you do? Well you should have a CB on the panel for the B-lead
(alternator output). If there is any problem indicated by your Hi/Lo volt light
(which you
should have) just reach over and pull the CB. Of all the ND alternator problems
most
have are benign, meaning they just stop producing power. OV conditions of any kind
are rare. I don't know of any documented extreme OV condition.
Some suggest you use a big fuse under the cowl for the B-lead to avoid bring the
B-lead
into the cockpit for noise reasons. That is over blown and just not true. Modern
alternators
are quite, compared to the the old stuff on factory planes. Besides even with old
style
alternators and external regulators how much noise have you heard in your Piper
or
Cessna with a B-lead CB on the panel? NONE. Bad grounds are the source of most
noise or RFI. If you have a I-VR alternator you should have a CB on the panel and
don't use
a crow bar.
The use of fuses on the B-lead with an I-VR is not recommended because you can
not assume the IGN lead will shut it down after a fault, as we see. Get the Big
CB on the
panel.
Internally regulated ND alternators are VERY reliable and safe. Some have been
in experimental airplanes for 10 year with no problems and 1000's of hours. I checked
the Highway Safety Foundation that tracks all things related to auto safety and
consumer affairs. The ND alternator has no Service letters, safety RECALLS or
complaints in +25 years .This is not true of all brands of alternators. There have
been
problems with other brands consistently but not the NipponDenso, such as Hitachi,
Bosch, and Ford for example.
The products ND designs and build are extensively tested by demanding field test
and
in the lab. Also the design has evolved from decades of improvement. Internal regulated
internal FAN alternators are really the only units made for the consumer since
the mid to
late 80's for a reason. These devices are well protected from OV and cars have
very
expensive computers to protect. Now look at the state of the art power makers in
Cessna
and Pipers. They are based on 50's and 60 's technology. The reason for OV modules
was these old 50's and 60's external regulated alternators went OV often because
they had no internal protection. The modern ND alternator has OV protection.
Steve's problem shows nothing is perfect, but I have two Acuras. One with 125,000
miles and another with 230,000 miles. Together that is 25 years of service and
the ND alternators are still going strong. On my RV-4 I had 800 hours of trouble
free
service on my ND alternator before I sold the plane. Another ND has been on a Thorpe
T-18 for 10 year with no problems. The issue of bad rebuilds is another topic.
George
---------------------------------
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> ...
>
> First this is a big big misconception. ND alternators DO have OV protection.
In fact
> there are no real cases of extreme OV in ND alternators. Now +18 volts is not
good, but
> a true OV condition (field short) would produce very high voltage , well past
18 volts. In
> Steve's case it is a partial failure and the regulator is not stable, but a true
OV is way
> extreme. For a condition like this to occur in a ND alternator would require
a very rare
> unlikely failure. Also you would see signs of impending failure, giving time
to shut the
> B-lead down manually (pull the CB). ....
George,
Do you think that the ND alternator is designed with an OV
limit of 18v? What kind of voltage would one expect on a
true OV failure?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Slider tip-forward canopy madification |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Try this:
http://www.aircraftextras.com/Tip-Up-Slider1.htm
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Grigson
Subject: RV-List: Slider tip-forward canopy madification
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Looking for any drawings, photos, info, etc. on how the slider
tip-forward mod that some clever guys have made is constructed. Seems
like a great solution to allow easy acess to the -6/7/9 baggage area.
Aloha and mahalo.
Greg
N-79PT (still in test flight phase)
---------------------------------
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
On 11/6/05 2:20 PM, "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
>
> ----- Original
>
>>
>> What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice.
>>
>> Bud Silvers
>> RV-8 in progress.
>>
>
I would also like to get some more "testimonials" on EI especially the
Lightspeed units. My RV-4 has 250 hours on a new Aerosport engine with
Slick mags and has been 100% trouble free. But I am attracted to the fuel
savings and smoothness of the Lightspeed EI systems (I am considering
installing one Plasma III unit). Several local RVs are flying with these
units (one uses a dual Lightspeed system) and everyone has had no issues
whatsoever. Regardless, anyone else's comments on the Lightspeed EI system
would be appreciated.
Doug Weiler
Pres, MN WING
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 6 Nov 2005, at 14:55, Fly n Low wrote:
> While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple
> of months
> ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of
> electronic
> ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more.
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to
> make it
> now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues
> making this
> a pressing decision.
Why did the instructor not like electronic ignition, or mixing EI and
mags? If he gave a reason, then we can discuss it on its merits. If
he didn't give a reason, then the information is useless to you.
If you go with dual EI, you obviously need to pay very, very close
attention to your electrical system design. You need a design that
will continue to power at least one ignition after any single failure.
Adding one EI probably gives you about of 90% of the performance
increase that you would get from a dual EI setup. Lots of people are
running one EI and one mag with no ill effects. This is probably the
best solution (unless you either want to have a P-Mag, or a very
complicated electrical system).
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Slider tip-forward canopy modification |
--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Greg,
Just contact "aircraft extras.com" as he is the one who designed
the tip up for the slider. I purchased one for my "9-A" that I'm
buiding. It is a great device to get into the baggage compartment.
Jim Nelson
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
A properly working shower of sparks ignition will start better than any
impulse coupled mag. Perhaps the electronic ignitions are bettter. However,
overhauling the right mag does absolutely Zero for starting, because it
isn't used on a shower of sparks system until the ignition key is returned
from start to both. The shower of sparks drives a retard set of breaker
points in the Left mag, firing it at TDC with multiple sparks generated by
the vibrator. If you have starting problems either the vibrator output is
bad, or the breaker points are bad.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fly n Low" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Subject: RV-List: Ignitions?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Hello all;
I have an IO-360-A1A currently with Bendix Mags and "Shower of Sparks"
When this engine was installed in an Acrosport II I had great difficulty
starting it. I finally did develop a process, but it was always a pain in
the .....
I am not sure if the problem was with the "Shower of Sparks" unit or with
the Mags. The Right Mag was overhauled and that did not make any difference.
Now I must decide whether to keep this ignition or to switch to ElectroAir
Electronic Ignition. I actually have both at this time. I have also
considered selling both and going to Slick Mags. I have also considered just
running one of the Bendix Mags and one of the ElectoAir Electronic
Ignitions.
While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple of months
ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of electronic
ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more.
Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to make it
now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues making this
a pressing decision.
What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice.
Bud Silvers
RV-8 in progress.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Warren Gretz <warrengretz@gretzaero.com>
Hello Doug,
I do not have my website updated yet to include the new GA-1000. Here is some information
on it.
Hello Builders,
Many of you have heard about our new heated Pitot tube that has been in the
development stage for a very long time. THE NEW GRETZ AERO GA-1000 IS NOW
AVAILABLE!
The GA-1000 is a totally new design of a heated Pitot tube. It is molded
from a very high-tech polymer material that has nearly the same thermal
conductivity as that of metal. This new design has electronics embedded in
the Pitot tube. It also comes with a small electronic control module to
control the heat of the Pitot as well as to provide information to the pilot
regarding thermal and heater performance of the Pitot tube. This is done by
way of a 3/16 inch diameter multi-conductor cable that has LED's already
attached that will mount conveniently on the panel.
The Pitot tube has a very modern and sleek shape that is pleasing to the
eye. It is very dark grey to black in color and the GA-1000 will fit the
Gretz Aero mounting bracket kits that were designed for other popular Pitot
tubes. The GA-1000 Pitot tubes come with: the electronic control module, the
LED's and cable, Pitot mounting screws, electronic control module mounting
hardware, and of course, complete instructions for installation and use.
The Gretz Aero price is $425 with shipping included in the US. If you
prefer an unheated Pitot tube, I also sell the GA-500, a Pitot that is the
same shape and color, but does not include the heater, electionics,
instructions, etc. It will mount into the same Gretz Aero mounting bracket
kits. The unheated Pitot sells for $125.
The GA-1000 is not yet listed on the Gretz
Aero website, but it should be soon.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
208-834-2312
---- <rv-list@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
>
> The pitot on your website is non-heated. Do you have a heated version that
> I'm missing?
>
> Doug Fischer
> RV-9A
> Jenison, MI
> do not archive
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >
> > You could buy mine.....they are powdercoated aluminum :)
> > Evan Johnson
> > www.evansaviationproducts.com
> > (530)247-0375
> > (530)351-1776 cell
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> > <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Speaking of the Gretz mount, mine is rusting after only a year, stored
> > > indoors!!
> > >
> > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> > > RV-6A, N915JD
> > > 235 hours
> > > Chicago/Louisville
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
> > > To: "RV-9 Matronics List" <rv9-list@matronics.com>; "RV Matronics List"
> > > <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot?
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
> <dfischer@iserv.net>
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone know a source for vacuum-metalizing for retail customers?
> I
> > > > was thinking that may be a safe way to put a chrome finish on the
> black
> > > > plastic Gretz heated pitot to match the mount. I think the old chrome
> > > > dip-in-chemicals route used to plate metal would damage the pitot.
> > > >
> > > > Doug Fischer
> > > > RV-9A Wings
> > > > Jenison, MI
> > > >
> > > > Do not archive
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
Message 27
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
The Lycoming manula for my O-360 shows that each magneto is used to
power 2 top spark plugs and 2 lower spark plugs. Is there any reason
why one mag shouldn't handle all the top plugs and the other all the
bottom plugs?
I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI system. It would be more
convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the bottom plugs and the mag
for the top plugs.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, baffles.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: ignition wiring |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI system. It would be more
>convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the bottom plugs and the mag
>for the top plugs.
That is how mine is set up but the LSE powers the top plugs. I am not
sure if it matters which. Check the installation instructions.
Ron Lee
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
George,
I want to use a Suzuki ND alternator in my RV6. I need a 60 amp capable one
and am told that the 1987 Suzuki Samurai model is capable of this. I would
prefer to get a new one rather that rebuilt but I expect that trying to buy
one out right with no core from a Suzuki dealer would be pricy. In your
previous post, you mentioned the possiblility of getting a NEW one at a
discount. Where do you recommend getting a new one in lieu of rebuilt one
from PEP BOYS.
JD
You can also get them all new made from aftermarket parts. However the auto
stores
usually carry only rebuilds. You have to go thru an auto electrical
specialty shop
to order new units . I may be able to get you a NEW one at discount, less
than what
Van sells rebuilt units for, but they are back ordered right now.
---------------------------------
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | When to buy engine? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I am receiving my quickbuild fuselage next week. How much longer until I need to
buy the engine? Or should I ask, what needs to be done if
I have the QB fuse before needing the engine?
- Matt
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
J D Newsum wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
>
>George,
>
>I want to use a Suzuki ND alternator in my RV6. I need a 60 amp capable one
>and am told that the 1987 Suzuki Samurai model is capable of this. I would
>prefer to get a new one rather that rebuilt but I expect that trying to buy
>one out right with no core from a Suzuki dealer would be pricy. In your
>previous post, you mentioned the possiblility of getting a NEW one at a
>discount. Where do you recommend getting a new one in lieu of rebuilt one
>from PEP BOYS.
>
>JD
>
>
>
I don't know used seems to work pretty well also, the $45.00 auto
wrecking yard Suzuki ND in my RV-6 is going on 17 years now without
any problems. :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: ignition wiring |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
The lower plugs tend to foul more. If you lost your
top mag, the lower mag plugs will foul more quickly.
--- sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314
> <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> The Lycoming manula for my O-360 shows that each
> magneto is used to
> power 2 top spark plugs and 2 lower spark plugs. Is
> there any reason
> why one mag shouldn't handle all the top plugs and
> the other all the
> bottom plugs?
>
> I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI
> system. It would be more
> convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the
> bottom plugs and the mag
> for the top plugs.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, baffles.
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> provided
> www.buildersbooks.com,
> Admin.
> _->
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://farechase.yahoo.com
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Looking for good used ANR headset |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rocket Shop" <russ@wernerworld.com>
I'm looking for a good used ANR headset for my nephew who is learning to
fly. Anyone upgraded recently have something for sale?
Please reply off list.
Russ Werner
HRII
do not archive
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